Magicsee N6 Plus, Boot loop... (update) - Android Stick & Console AMLogic based Computers

I hope this is the right place I joined the forum a long time ago for help with an old Android phone hopefully I can find some help with this here too.
I bought this about a year ago:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085H9H57Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used an SD card with Emuelec on it had a bit of fun with some retro games and android games, and installed some software to watch videos with it. I used it for about 3 or 4 months then set it aside to focus on other things. Cut to around the beginning of the year I get a new Samsung 4kTV and wanted to hook all my stuff up to it. When I connected this and plugged it in I got stuck in a boot loop. It worked just fine up until the last time I used it and now the boot screen starts discolored for a couple of seconds then changes to its normal color, tries to load for about a minute and then resets. Even with my Emuelec SD card in, it tries to boot, runs through some of the file installation for what looks like the first boot and then resets.
I download the tools to make the stock firmware SD card to reinstall and it seemed to go through the whole process just fine without rebooting, but when I eject the card and restart the device the same thing happens. I have the one program that's supposed to let you connect to the deice through USB to installed the firmware again but it doesn't appear to be recognized by the software (it's likely the cable I'm using isn't a USB2 rated cable or maybe I didn't install the drivers properly) I've tried a couple of different adaptors because some people say maybe the adaptor is junk but I don't have many options with barrel connectors that even fit. I've seen people talk about shorting connections to break a loop, but I'm not an electrician and don't know the first thing about that, That being said I did try to open it an I can see the bottom of the board but I'm not sure how to even get it out of the rest of it's plastic case without breaking something (I think I need a small wrench to disconnect the port for the pointless external antenna.)
Anyone think there's any saving this or should I just call it a loss and move on?
(Update!)
I continued to search for solutions in the meantime after posting this and eventually bought a new adaptor. Without clear information I assumed the adaptor wasn't the issue, but I eventually just on a whim I tried another adaptor I ran across in my pile of electronics that caused the device to suddenly power on and escape the boot loop. Despite fitting the plug perfectly the adaptor I was using doesn't have very legible writing so the actual output can't be read, but this new adaptor seems to be a 12v which seems out of the ordinary to me but what ever it's original use it appears I'll be using it for this case. I'm glad I didn't seem to do any damage to it while searching for a fix (other than the reformat that cleared out my apps). My thanks to anyone that took the time to read this even if you had no advice.

Related

[Q] USB Connected - Screen Accuracy Drops to Zero?

Hey guys.
Any time I connect the phone to my computer via USB, the phone's touchscreen goes bonkers. It wont register my touch in the correct location, it jumps around and registers button-presses that I never pressed, or won't register a firm screen-press at all!
If the USB is unplugged, everything zips along accurately.
Any idea what might be causing this, and how I might fix it?
Just a quick background:
I rooted and installed the lag-fix. I encountered a problem with the lag-fix, restored factory settings, and root/lag-fixed again. The problem cropped up after the factory restore.
BTownTKD said:
Hey guys.
Any time I connect the phone to my computer via USB, the phone's touchscreen goes bonkers. It wont register my touch in the correct location, it jumps around and registers button-presses that I never pressed...
Any idea what might be causing this, and how I might fix it?
Just a quick background:
I rooted and installed the lag-fix. I encountered a problem with the lag-fix, restored factory settings, and root/lag-fixed again. The problem cropped up after the factory restore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's wacky. Since you've already done it once, I'd just restore again and see if that fixes it.
Also... not sure if this is a side-effect of the factory restore, but guess what suddenly appeared in my Widgets list??
Google Search!
BTownTKD said:
Also... not sure if this is a side-effect of the factory restore, but guess what suddenly appeared in my Widgets list??
Google Search!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using LauncherPro by any chance? It's been showing up with LP since Day 1.. If not, that's pretty darn cool then.
namebrandon said:
Using LauncherPro by any chance? It's been showing up with LP since Day 1.. If not, that's pretty darn cool then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oops... launcherPro.
I've since reset the factory settings again; no luck. Still all wonky when USB is plugged in.
I'm considering taking it back to best buy and simply exchanging it for a different one, since I've only had it for a day. I would think that resetting everything to factory defaults would have fixed any software problem. Maybe this is a hardware problem that I just now noticed.
I have heard roomer, that if your usb is to low or to high of a voltage it will bork up the touch screen while plugged in.
it seems a common occurrence on many Android phones that use our style of USB port that if you use a 3rd party usb cable (i.e. one other than what shipped with the phone) as well as many 3rd party usb wall chargers that the touchscreen will either go bonkers or freeze up alltogether.
I've seen the exact same thing happen with my friends HTC MT3G and Motorola CliqXT using certain cables and chargers. Any cables/chargers that do this to my Vibrant do it to their phones too.
Interesting. I'm glad I read all this before I decided to take it back;
the laptop I had it plugged into is so fubar'd, that it would not surprise me to find that it has incorrect voltage...
This happens all the time on my Droid 2, Nexus and Fascinate. I just swipe very quickly and press lightly. However, no matter how many "tricks" I try it's still hard to flip through screens or open the correct app. Hardest task would be to navigate a website. Considering it happens on multiple Android devices and computers I never really put too much thought into it. Just figured it to be a Android bug.
Wow, never seen this. Now I do use the cable that came with my fascinate to plug into my computer, however car charger, wall chargers, and a USB charger (in my truck), I just use the cables from my Droid1. All my chargers are generics... Hmmm..
my htc touch pro 2 did the same thing when i used a gps car charger... screen went crazy
chargers
Ok. So for anyone wanting to know what's going on in the background to cause problems with your phone with crappy chargers....
I first discovered this with another touch screen player *cough*ipodTouch*cough*cough when I was trying to make a universal 4-port USB charging bay that would work with my sansa and my ...other player.
The specification that most device-manufacturing companies use nowadays for charging states that for a device to recognize a charger (and to start accepting a charge from the charger), the data pins must be shorted (connected together). This is what Sandisk, Apple, and several others are using. That is how I built my 4 port USB charger and it works flawlessly (with my sansa, ipod, galaxy, and Cowon S9).
NOW, somewhere floating around on the net are specs that state that some data must be sent/received through the USB's data cable (i believe it claims to need any 2.5V) which basically puts some resistors in to make a voltage divider.with the power and ground and data pins. THESE ARE BAD SPECS. They might have been legit in the past for some other device, but they are NOT what our phones need.
So some of the cheap, off-brand chargers are actually sending random messages to our Phones through the data pins (non-sense 2.5 volts). I haven't heard any reports of this damaging the phone or mp3 players yet, but whenever I plug mine into a charger and I lose the ability to control the screen, I get nervous b/c I know there is voltage on the data pins, and I don't know if it's the correct amount. So I get nervous
...does that make sense?
I had the Droid and the first time I saw that, it freaked me out. It seems to be an issue with touch screen android phones when they don't receive the correct voltage, whether because of a 3rd party cable, or a different computer voltage or something. I was using my blackberry mini usb charger and it would act like it had rabies. Nothing is wrong with your phone.
The charger included is plugged in next to my bed, and I'm using my Droid's USB cable in the computer without issues. That's very strange. I've never heard of this problem.
Kamar234 said:
I had the Droid and the first time I saw that, it freaked me out. It seems to be an issue with touch screen android phones when they don't receive the correct voltage, whether because of a 3rd party cable, or a different computer voltage or something. I was using my blackberry mini usb charger and it would act like it had rabies. Nothing is wrong with your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry dude. It's not just android handsets, and it doesn't (seem) to have anything to do with the proper voltage. I've taken multimeters to the chargers. They are providing the proper ~4.5-5V range. It has to be the data pins.
Although, that's just the chargers I've had. Take a voltmeter to your usb chargers (don't touch the casing at the same time!) and see what their voltage is. But a low voltage just wouldn't charge your phone, and a high voltage would damage it.

[Q] No charge, No MTP initialize, zero USB activity

Hey guys, thanks for dropping by.
I have a very wierd problem, that I just cant figure out.
It all started the other day, when I found my tablet dead after having been left on and charging during the night. The tab was dead, and I feared the worst. After having left it on what seems to me like a trickle charge for several hours, I managed to get it up and running, and the tab seems fine, it was just completely out of juice.
But my troubles are not over. Whenever I'd connect the tab to the wall charger, I'd only get the red "X" symbol in the corner, and it would say MTP Initialize, even though its plugged into the standard OEM wall charger that comes with.
When I connect the tablet to my computer using the same cable, nothing happens, and by that I mean nothing. Computer doesn't start the connection process at all, its not recognized in the device manager, nothing. Not even Odin can see the tablet when I put it in download mode, the tab keeps saying "Waitting USB Cable..."
Tried this on 2 computers, still no luck, even using a USB plug on the motherboard instead of front-usb.
Now, the tablet will "trickle charge" from both the wall charger, and the computer, but nothing else happens.
I figured it could've been the ROM, so I got the latest ICS Kanang ROM downloaded, transferred it to my tab using Bluetooth, and flashed this without hassle, but the problem still persists, only now showing a regular charge icon in the lower right section, but it is still only trickle charging as far as I can tell.
All I can figure is a defective USB cable, or even worse, defective port on the tablet itself, but I'm not sure. I've ordered a new cable from DealExtreme, that will hopefully arrive sooner rather than later.
But seeing as the tab is hardly 4-5 weeks old, I find it difficult to believe the cable is the problem.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm all out at this point, so any pointers is very appreciated. Thanks.
It could be the cable. It's the part you have used in each situation. I'd wait for the cable to arrive and test it with the tablet when you get it.
Sent from my GT-P7510 using xda premium
Hey, thanks for the reply.
Yeah, I really really hope this is the case, time will tell, DealExtreme is not the quickest dealer. I'll update when I get it.
The new cable came from DX, but I'm afraid it showed no difference on anything.
The cable is working just as the original one, so that's not the problem.
Anyone have any ideas?
I guess my main goal at the moment is flashing it back to stock and un-rooting so I can get it repaired.
You mind posting a screenshot, it's kinda hard to imagine what you see by what you read For all I know my imagination went from a red X to the corner to something like an X off battousai's face.
Then again, I'd be glad to help, provided you post screenies, would be a major help
Ah, yes, I will take screenshots of anything you want to see.
Right now im on ICS preview, and these are some snapshots WITH the cable connected.
The red "X" I'm talking about you can see on the first picture on the charging icon, this happened even when the wall charger was connected on gingerbread/overcome experience rom.
The other pictures you can see it says discharging. Now, this was taken when connected to the computer, and I guess that's normal, but it also happens exactly the same when connected to the wall charger that came with the unit.
If you want screenshots of anything else, ill get it asap!
I took a poorly image of the tab connected via USB, to my computer with Odin open, hopefully you can see what it says.
If not its just what happens, I don't get further.
By the screenshots, Is the language Swedish?
Then again thanks for providing the screenies
In your first screenshot that could be part of the theme, or was it never there previously? I don't really know if it's not charging or that's supposed to be the charging icon, because for some odd reason on ICS preview I don't see that red icon anywhere.
As for the tablet, the reason why you aren't detecting it seems as though you don't have the drivers on the PC, I don't know if you installed them or you didn't mention it because I never found it being mentioned in your reply. I know it sounds silly but the same thing happened to me when I was using the tablet, (originally my 3G series belonged to my dad who knew nothing about modding so he just gave it to me and said, "do your thing" ) He did also forget to mention that you require to have the drivers to detect it via Device Manager and MTP in general, shortly the COM port will show up aswell. Perhaps re-installing the drivers should do the trick?
Made me wonder how did you install ICS in the first place if you weren't able to have it read? But I realized you could have downloaded the zip file via the tablet, On another note, how did you install CWM in the first place? o.o
Hehe, almost! Its in Norwegian on the honeycomb picture.
The red "X" would show up whenever i was connected to the PC via USB, to indicate its not charging. It will however "trickle" charge, and take 24h to charge fully with no usage and turned off.
Yes, the red icon is not on ICS, it just says not charging in the about page, as you can see from the screenshot.
Drivers have been reinstalled two or three times on two different PC's, I don't believe this is the issue.
When I bought the unit, it was working 100%
USB was okay, I flashed and rooted the unit over to "Overcome Experience".
From there I transferred ICS preview via Bluetooth and installed that way.
Have you tried factory reset to make sure all modules are reset? Maybe the USB charge module in Overcome is conflicting.
Yes.
Factory reset 3-4 times on the two different roms. I've reset everything I could find, without success.
Perhaps it has gone faulty with the tablet's plug in port, someone had the same issue although it was his wire that was at fault, it detects the charge via USB but not enough volt's to be detected by the PC, has it been grounded? Seem's more likely :| Might have to get it checked in your local center perhaps, It's how I mentioned that any metallic object is able to relay electricity despite being broken or not, you may have a broken pin for all I know :|
Hi,
I'm having exactly the same issue with my 1 month old tab 7+. I tested it using my bosses charge cable and there is no issue so I need to go to the service centre for a warranty replacement on the cable.
Hope you sort out your issue soon!
Thanks, but I don't think I have any other choice to deliver it to Samsung Europe as a payable service to get it fixed.
Purchased on a American store, and I doubt they'll take it back with flashed software.
I'm not sure really, I'll see what I end up doing. Its not the cable, that's for sure.

Defective mico-USB connector

Guys, I'm convinced the usb connector on my 9 month old TP is defective and gets worse each time I use it. I had bought a touchstone charger to ease the connector wear but still, I was eventually having problems with USB data connectivity using store bought cables. I even sent my TP in to fix the connector and when I got it back, still no USB connectivity. Just a completely wiped TP. So HP sent me one of their "genuine" silver dot cables and low and behold it worked fine. (My original cable was lost)
Now, months later, I'm having problems with the USB data connection again. I either get the "Not enough current message" in WebOS or no MTP USB symbol in CM9. Sometimes the PC will chime positively but with an error message (can't detect device). I received another genuine HP cable and it behaves the same as the other one. Inserting them normally, they appear to be in tight, the PC will chime but Windows will say that there's a problem, can't detect device. The only way to get it to work is to insert the microusb side at a 45 degree angle tilted downward and hold it in for 5 seconds, then (ever so slowly) release the pressure to the connector. 50% of the time I'll get a Windows message that says the USB is degraded and run slower than normal (which I think means it thinks its in USB1.1 slow xfer mode) and 50% it works fine at USB 2.0 (until I pull the cable out of the connector). I also have 2 store bought cables that won't ever successfully connect to USB with the TP but work fine with my Samsung cell in both charging and xferring music over to the phone.
So what I'm getting at here is that no standard microusb cable is the same and that there must be something special about the HP genuine one. Do these cables have a resistor on pin 4 ID tied to GND pin 5? Even so, I think what is wearing the most is pins 1 & 2 and maybe 3 (VCC and the data pins) which is why it may only work by concentrating on seating those pins first. Does it make sense that the 'can't detect device' message comes up with just the data lines and ground connected but no VCC? For that matter, why would the battery symbol in CM9 always show the lightning bolt assuming pin 1 VCC is not connected?
I'd appreciate any responses from other members here since I believe without USB the TP could be bricked in case some boot code gets corrupt and you are forced into WebOS recovery mode. This has never happened to me yet and I've installed a lot of nightlies but it COULD happen, no guarantees. What is inevitable is my connector will eventually wear out and my TP will only live until the bootloader DOES get corrupt, hopefully later than sooner. This could be the case with all TP's. Just imagine if in a couple of years everyone's TP's USB port goes bad. Sounds like the devs should figure out a way to fix a bricked TP wirelessly, if that's at all possible.
Thanks,
synchron
One of my Touchpad's had the same problem in Webos it said using wrong charger may not charge or something similar and with Android ie nightly the charging signal came up but it did not charge.
I spoke to HP and pointed out that I have 2 Tablets and that swapping leads or chargers made no difference all combinations worked on one but not the other.
They agreed to fix it and replaced the part. It is now working fine. And as with yours my computer failed to recognize the tablet properly.19 times out of 20 on the one time it did I was able to back up and remove Android before HP picked it up.
I would send it back under warranty or if that has expired state that it was preexisting. Otherwise as you said it is going to become pretty much unusable.
Don't let them fob you off.
Good luck
spaceosc said:
if u bought it during the fire sale u have about a week till (8/20) the one year warranty expires.
http://kb.hpwebos.com/wps/portal/kb/na/touchpad/touchpad/wifi/supportservices/page_en.html
go to palm support and CHAT with them. do not call cuz that cost money.
once u get an RMA they will send a box and take care of Shipping.
then go here to wipe and remove android
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1426244
once wiped send it in and your speaker will be fixed, it will take about a week.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
from another thread
sstar said:
One of my Touchpad's had the same problem in Webos it said using wrong charger may not charge or something similar and with Android ie nightly the charging signal came up but it did not charge.
I spoke to HP and pointed out that I have 2 Tablets and that swapping leads or chargers made no difference all combinations worked on one but not the other.
They agreed to fix it and replaced the part. It is now working fine. And as with yours my computer failed to recognize the tablet properly.19 times out of 20 on the one time it did I was able to back up and remove Android before HP picked it up.
I would send it back under warranty or if that has expired state that it was preexisting. Otherwise as you said it is going to become pretty much unusable.
Don't let them fob you off.
Good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
spaceosc said:
from another thread
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanx for your prompt responses. I bought my TP at the 2nd fire sale through BB in early Nov so I still got a few more months but I would rather wait a bit more since they did nothing the 1st time around. I think the connector is on some daughter board along with the vibrate device which is soldered to the main board. Doesn't sound like a big deal to repair it. Still, what makes the HP cable different then the others? Are there known cables I can get online that might be made better to always work and make better contact than the HP ones?
Synchron
synchron50 said:
Thanx for your prompt responses. I bought my TP at the 2nd fire sale through BB in early Nov so I still got a few more months but I would rather wait a bit more since they did nothing the 1st time around. I think the connector is on some daughter board along with the vibrate device which is soldered to the main board. Doesn't sound like a big deal to repair it. Still, what makes the HP cable different then the others? Are there known cables I can get online that might be made better to always work and make better contact than the HP ones?
Synchron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont wait, ive sent my TP in 3 times, 1st time for charging port, 2nd for a crack around the speaker, 3rd for a busted speaker.
spaceosc said:
dont wait, ive sent my TP in 3 times, 1st time for charging port, 2nd for a crack around the speaker, 3rd for a busted speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your advice. Did they fix everything that was intended? Was turn around time no longer than 2 weeks for each repair? When was your last repair (busted speaker) done? Is your serial number the same or did you ever get a replacement (meaning a refurbished one) back?
Thanks
synchron50 said:
Thanks for your advice. Did they fix everything that was intended? Was turn around time no longer than 2 weeks for each repair? When was your last repair (busted speaker) done? Is your serial number the same or did you ever get a replacement (meaning a refurbished one) back?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i keep track of the serials and they always came back the same. i have more than one pad and i asked for one to be replaced completely. we will see if that happens. but they fix only what u ask for and nothing else.
it can take longer depending on Weekends. takes 2 days to get your box, then 2 days to get it to HP, then 3- 4 days to get your fixed unit. its all done thru UPS, cant send it out on the weekends or receive it
spaceosc said:
i keep track of the serials and they always came back the same. i have more than one pad and i asked for one to be replaced completely. we will see if that happens. but they fix only what u ask for and nothing else.
it can take longer depending on Weekends. takes 2 days to get your box, then 2 days to get it to HP, then 3- 4 days to get your fixed unit. its all done thru UPS, cant send it out on the weekends or receive it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, you are giving me hope to try again while my warranty is still good. Maybe I'll put a big note on the screen PLEASE REPLACE USB CONNECTOR - wouldn't hurt.
Synchron50
I know this is really old, but im finding my self with similar issues and no warrenty
synchron50 said:
Guys, I'm convinced the usb connector on my 9 month old TP is defective and gets worse each time I use it. I had bought a touchstone charger to ease the connector wear but still, I was eventually having problems with USB data connectivity using store bought cables. I even sent my TP in to fix the connector and when I got it back, still no USB connectivity. Just a completely wiped TP. So HP sent me one of their "genuine" silver dot cables and low and behold it worked fine. (My original cable was lost)
Now, months later, I'm having problems with the USB data connection again. I either get the "Not enough current message" in WebOS or no MTP USB symbol in CM9. Sometimes the PC will chime positively but with an error message (can't detect device). I received another genuine HP cable and it behaves the same as the other one. Inserting them normally, they appear to be in tight, the PC will chime but Windows will say that there's a problem, can't detect device. The only way to get it to work is to insert the microusb side at a 45 degree angle tilted downward and hold it in for 5 seconds, then (ever so slowly) release the pressure to the connector. 50% of the time I'll get a Windows message that says the USB is degraded and run slower than normal (which I think means it thinks its in USB1.1 slow xfer mode) and 50% it works fine at USB 2.0 (until I pull the cable out of the connector). I also have 2 store bought cables that won't ever successfully connect to USB with the TP but work fine with my Samsung cell in both charging and xferring music over to the phone.
So what I'm getting at here is that no standard microusb cable is the same and that there must be something special about the HP genuine one. Do these cables have a resistor on pin 4 ID tied to GND pin 5? Even so, I think what is wearing the most is pins 1 & 2 and maybe 3 (VCC and the data pins) which is why it may only work by concentrating on seating those pins first. Does it make sense that the 'can't detect device' message comes up with just the data lines and ground connected but no VCC? For that matter, why would the battery symbol in CM9 always show the lightning bolt assuming pin 1 VCC is not connected?
I'd appreciate any responses from other members here since I believe without USB the TP could be bricked in case some boot code gets corrupt and you are forced into WebOS recovery mode. This has never happened to me yet and I've installed a lot of nightlies but it COULD happen, no guarantees. What is inevitable is my connector will eventually wear out and my TP will only live until the bootloader DOES get corrupt, hopefully later than sooner. This could be the case with all TP's. Just imagine if in a couple of years everyone's TP's USB port goes bad. Sounds like the devs should figure out a way to fix a bricked TP wirelessly, if that's at all possible.
Thanks,
synchron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi all. I know this thread is really old, but I'm finding myself dealing with similar issues. And I'm obviously out of warranty. I can't get windows, linux, or Toolbox to pick up the USB. I'm actually in a worse case scenario mention here and am stuck in meboot, TWRP, and WebOS recovery, because I had wiped the rom. It must be an issue with the USB port, I've lost track of my original Hp touchpad OEM cable, and have tried every USB cable I can find. Any help would be appreciated.

Sign of loose or damaged USB port?

My g3 is about 1.5 years old. It's been doing just great for me. I do have the hairline fracture right along the bottom base of the phone which I believe comes from stress when trying to plug in a USB chord. Mine was pretty tight to begin with and it still is pretty good.
However, I have noticed some issues the past couple of months.
Sometimes, when plugging in my original charging cable, it states it's in slow charging mode. A couple of disconnects and reconnects fixes this. This is rare but it does occur once in a while.
When plugged into a PC, I have to be carefull not to move or jostle the phone or else it acts as if I unplugged the phone and plugged it back in and then I go through all the machinations of allowing the PC to have access, etc.
Item 2 is the most annoying factor. Sometimes, I don't even touch the phone, and I'll hear the sound that the phone was unplugged and then immediately a sound that it was plugged back in. Then Windows pops up a dialog box, the status bar on my phone states it's in install mode, then the phone asks if I should allow the computer to access the phone, and then when I allow it, it's in MTP mode again.
But item 2 happens whether I'm in Charge Only mode, MTP mode, Camera mode, etc.
I'm just wondering if there is some damage to the USB port on the phone or else it might be lose from the main board? I've searched and searched and can't find anyone else with this problem.
I've tried several different cables, and it's the same with each and every one of them. And it doesn't appear the the original cable is damaged. It might be since it's also 1.5 years old, but I don't think so because using it with other devices doesn't cause this issue.
Thanks!
Both my G3 and my G Pad 8.3 are more sensitive than they used to be about their connections to both original and high quality third party ones, although mostly the third party ones.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
Both my G3 and my G Pad 8.3 are more sensitive than they used to be about their connections to both original and high quality third party ones, although mostly the third party ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I'll just chalk it up to good 'ol wear and tear.
It's just annoying if I'm doing something like copying files to/from my phone from/to my PC and I bump the desk or the phone and whoops! Gotta start over.
Need to look at using WiFi for it, but the worst part is if I'm using my phone to test apps I've written (emulator is not a good testing device for a lot of things). So, that also becomes an issue if I'm trying to watch the logcat and it gets interrupted, etc.

rbox pro 3-32gb bricked/dead

i had my rbox pro 3+32 for 2 weeks which immediately showed power issues randomly cutting out i contacted the seller who gave me a 25% refund if i agreed to keep the box so i thought a sd burning update of the new firmware may fix it but it cut out just as update was starting now it is hard bricked with no tv output and only a light blue light with a reset button not seeming to work (i have since found the power adapter was causing the orig power cutout issues and replaced it), i have tried to do sd burn but nothing happens, i have tried usb burn but does not connect i tried shorting pins next to the bga emmc where an older style nand chip could have been optioned , i cant even get it to connect via uart ttl
i have tried to find another solution but im all out of luck any help would be appreciated
my only other idea is to remove emmc chip and install a sd card socket in its place but i cant find any info on this and im not sure if its even possible
Ok finally all sorted by soldering 2 wires on the old tsop pads (even though it uses a bga emmc) and holding the wires together for 8 seconds from the time i plugged in the power, also it had to be powered via a usb port instead of main plug as the sd didnt seem to get power to it while it was bricked using the main plug ??. anyways after the 8 seconds the screen lit up and i opened the shorted wires and the sd update started, after 10- 12 minutes it completed and all is well
I used the h96pro plus android 7.1 firmware and it seems to be very compatible with no issues that i have noticed so far
Any way you could document your process a little more? Like which pads you used? My r-box died watching youtube, and stops at 7% using usb burning tool, and also stops right away using sdcard method. Would love to revive this device.
smashdotcom said:
Any way you could document your process a little more? Like which pads you used? My r-box died watching youtube, and stops at 7% using usb burning tool, and also stops right away using sdcard method. Would love to revive this device.
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