i had my rbox pro 3+32 for 2 weeks which immediately showed power issues randomly cutting out i contacted the seller who gave me a 25% refund if i agreed to keep the box so i thought a sd burning update of the new firmware may fix it but it cut out just as update was starting now it is hard bricked with no tv output and only a light blue light with a reset button not seeming to work (i have since found the power adapter was causing the orig power cutout issues and replaced it), i have tried to do sd burn but nothing happens, i have tried usb burn but does not connect i tried shorting pins next to the bga emmc where an older style nand chip could have been optioned , i cant even get it to connect via uart ttl
i have tried to find another solution but im all out of luck any help would be appreciated
my only other idea is to remove emmc chip and install a sd card socket in its place but i cant find any info on this and im not sure if its even possible
Ok finally all sorted by soldering 2 wires on the old tsop pads (even though it uses a bga emmc) and holding the wires together for 8 seconds from the time i plugged in the power, also it had to be powered via a usb port instead of main plug as the sd didnt seem to get power to it while it was bricked using the main plug ??. anyways after the 8 seconds the screen lit up and i opened the shorted wires and the sd update started, after 10- 12 minutes it completed and all is well
I used the h96pro plus android 7.1 firmware and it seems to be very compatible with no issues that i have noticed so far
Any way you could document your process a little more? Like which pads you used? My r-box died watching youtube, and stops at 7% using usb burning tool, and also stops right away using sdcard method. Would love to revive this device.
smashdotcom said:
Any way you could document your process a little more? Like which pads you used? My r-box died watching youtube, and stops at 7% using usb burning tool, and also stops right away using sdcard method. Would love to revive this device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the same problem 7% dead
Related
I got some old Galaxy Player 5.0 model yp-gb70cw from my friend, and it's not turning On at all. I tried all kind of button combinations after phone was chargered for 3 hours (while charging there were no light indicator that it's getting any power). I even open him up and disconnect the battery and hold power button for minute and reconnect battery but still no life in that phone. Anyone got any idea what can problem be or what to do, I was planning to buy that micro usb jig, maybe that could bring him alive...
Anyone ?
A similar thing happened to my son's player a few months ago. He got an old 500mA usb charger, connected his player with the samsung cord and let it charge overnight. In the morning the player appeared dead. However, he unplugged the charger and held the power button for a few seconds and his player came back to life.
Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk
That didn't work for me...any other sugesstions ?
I've got nothing else. That worked for my son. My player 5.0 has been working fine, but it gets used almost every day.
Sent from my GT-P6210 using Tapatalk
the usb jig may be worth a try, or you could try the jtag but other than that it may just be a dead player.
read this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1000175
I found out that phone was working normal and teacher took it from a kid in class and shut it down, after that he can't power On anymore. Phone was not bricked I doubt that JTAG would work I mean JTAG is for unbricking device, right ?
Thermaltake868 said:
Anyone ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My first question would be: Does the device really fail to boot or is the graphics chip broken, meaning that it boots but doesn't produce any output?
Since a player doesn't have any spinning parts which make noise as soon as you turn it on, it's hard to tell the difference. Can you connect it to a Linux computer and see what the kernel reports it sees? (journalctl -f or dmesg)
yahya69 said:
My first question would be: Does the device really fail to boot or is the graphics chip broken, meaning that it boots but doesn't produce any output?
Since a player doesn't have any spinning parts which make noise as soon as you turn it on, it's hard to tell the difference. Can you connect it to a Linux computer and see what the kernel reports it sees? (journalctl -f or dmesg)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On Windows I don't get any respond from him when it is connected on USB, didn't try on linux yet I mean I didn't use linux for a while forgot everything so you will have to tell me step by step what to do, will some live dist. work ?
Thermaltake868 said:
On Windows I don't get any respond from him when it is connected on USB, didn't try on linux yet I mean I didn't use linux for a while forgot everything so you will have to tell me step by step what to do, will some live dist. work ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In principle, any distro should work, it's just about how to capture the kernel messages. You get part of it via the dmesg command, which you can issue in a terminal but to get the full picture, you have to read the system log, which is either by having a traditional syslog server running, like syslog-ng or rsyslog, or using systemd's log utility journalctl. Here, the easiest way of following the messages is by issuing the command "journalctl -f" in a terminal. Ultimately it really depends what logging facility the live distro offers.
Thermaltake868 said:
I got some old Galaxy Player 5.0 model yp-gb70cw from my friend, and it's not turning On at all. I tried all kind of button combinations after phone was chargered for 3 hours (while charging there were no light indicator that it's getting any power). I even open him up and disconnect the battery and hold power button for minute and reconnect battery but still no life in that phone. Anyone got any idea what can problem be or what to do, I was planning to buy that micro usb jig, maybe that could bring him alive...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have two 5.0 players that the usb port no longer works for anything. They do not charge, nor do they recognise any charger or computer.
I would say open it back up and use a multimeter/voltmeter and check the battery to see if it has any kind of charge. Chances are it does not due to a bad usb port by the sounds. If it's not taking a charge it's not going to do anything. Do the battery check and maybe I can help you from there if your willing to frankenstien your player.
By the way I still use both my 5.0 players all the time. Just had to rig them up so they could take a charge. Thay still work fine aside from not having usb capabilites.
AEVAREX said:
I have two 5.0 players that the usb port no longer works for anything. They do not charge, nor do they recognise any charger or computer.
I would say open it back up and use a multimeter/voltmeter and check the battery to see if it has any kind of charge. Chances are it does not due to a bad usb port by the sounds. If it's not taking a charge it's not going to do anything. Do the battery check and maybe I can help you from there if your willing to frankenstien your player.
By the way I still use both my 5.0 players all the time. Just had to rig them up so they could take a charge. Thay still work fine aside from not having usb capabilites.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, how to test that battery on multimeter it has 3 pins and they are kind of sucked inside of that plastic if I remember correctly.
Thermaltake868 said:
Okay, how to test that battery on multimeter it has 3 pins and they are kind of sucked inside of that plastic if I remember correctly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the plastic tab that holds the battery pulls straight up. Use a fine tiped multimeter set on DC voltage and touch the probes to the two outer pins of the battery. If your multimeter is digital you will get a reading even if positive and negative are wrong, it will just read in the negative if backwards. If your meter is old school needle and you have the poles swapped you will see the needle go backwards, in which case just reverse the probes. This is all provided there is at least a small charge remaining in the battery. Positive wires are usually red, negative usually black but can also be blue, green or brown. I will look for my photo's of the 5.0 innards a little later on tonight for you.
If I remember correctly you need more then 3.2 volts for your player to boot up if it's going to.
AEVAREX said:
If I remember correctly you need more then 3.2 volts for your player to boot up if it's going to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I measure 4.070V but phone is still dead, won't power up.
yahya69 may be right, maybe the graphics chip is bad. Maybe the screen is shot. IDK. Make sure you are using an official samsung USB cable to connect.
Hi,
Please, be patient while reading this post, this is a looong explanation of the brick I am facing...
I recently was given a non working XTZ SGP311 and tried to get it back to life. As I have another one SGP311 (this one is perfectly working), I am able to check many things.
I read most of topics about XTZ unbrick but can't find any way to get it back working.
The problem is that I can't have any signal from usb (data or power). I use a genuine Sony USB cable and genuine Sony charging adapter (coming from the working SGP311). The led always stays off.
I tried the different combos as described (vol- and power ; vol+ and power ; vol+ and vol- and power) during 5, 10, 20, 30 seconds (yes, quite complete tests).
I did a cross check of batteries and inside usb connector ribbon (yes, had to open both tablets for that), the working tablet continues to work with the 2 parts coming from the faulty one (battery coming from dead tablet was 0% charged), so the problem is not on the side of the inside usb connector neither on the side of a supposed dead battery. The faulty tablet doesn't boot, even with a fully charged battery inside.
I luckily own a XTZ dock (SGPDS5) that allows to charge without using usb connector (it uses the 2 contacts located on the left side of the tablet). That's the only way to get something...
Soooo, when I put the bricked tablet on its dock, the red led flashes very slowy (say, 1 second off, 1 second on red, and so on).
When I press vol- and power, nothing happens (no matter 5/10/15/20/25 seconds).
When I press vol- and vol+ and power, idem.
When I press vol+ and power : I got the sequence blinks once white led / blinks 3 times white led (after that goes to slow red blinking about if I keep the keys pressed). So not completely dead.
If I unplug it from the dock right after the third white blink, plug the usb cable to the tablet, plug it to my laptop (with emma running, tried with pc companion too), and press vol-, then....nothing happens. Really nothing. No led lit. No detection of anything from the laptop (or device manager as well). It would have been the same if I would have kept it unplugged.
To sum it up, the only thing I can have is 1 or 3 white blinks after having plugged the SGP311 on its docks.
IMO, the trouble comes from a faulty component inside the tablet. Maybe the one that manages the connection from the usb ribbon plug. I checked the tiny plugs inside the tablet (once dismantled and back repacked too), all seems in order.
Your help is welcome !
This is similar to an issue I have it sounds like, you can still flash stock rom by holding power + volume till it blinks 3x then plug USB in and hold volume down immediately.
This gives flash mode, you can use flash tool to put stock rom on with this. The issue happens when it's acting like there's no OS it seems. Problem is mines doing this everytime I flash a custom rom, it's fine with stock aside from **** wifi
Thanks for your help. I tried that yesterday and it did not work.
This may be related to the way of reset I use (but I can't have any other).
As I can't get any white blinking led when connected by the tablet micro-usb port, the one and only way to get the 3 times white blinking led is when the XTZ is on its dock (SGP DS5, power connection only by lateral contacts).
What I tried yesterday was to get the 3 time white blinking led (vol+ and Power), then output the tablet off the dock and connect a usb cable to a laptop running Sony Emma (from micro usb tablet port to usb laptop).
Precision : I kept VOL- pressed when pluging usb cable to laptop.
No result at all. No detection (either Emma nor windows).
Any idea ?
jzk01 said:
Thanks for your help. I tried that yesterday and it did not work.
This may be related to the way of reset I use (but I can't have any other).
As I can't get any white blinking led when connected by the tablet micro-usb port, the one and only way to get the 3 times white blinking led is when the XTZ is on its dock (SGP DS5, power connection only by lateral contacts).
What I tried yesterday was to get the 3 time white blinking led (vol+ and Power), then output the tablet off the dock and connect a usb cable to a laptop running Sony Emma (from micro usb tablet port to usb laptop).
Precision : I kept VOL- pressed when pluging usb cable to laptop.
No result at all. No detection (either Emma nor windows).
Any idea ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
let it charge for a night period. Then try to flash again.
Rootk1t said:
let it charge for a night period. Then try to flash again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your advice, I appreciate.
But I swapped batteries from the working XTZ to the non-working one and put a (about) 60% charged battery into the bricked XTZ (both batteries are charging when set into the working XTZ). I will try anyway.
The problem is that the non working XTZ does not charge either through usb or through the dock. The only interest of the dock is that this is only situation where I can have the "triple white led blink" (but nothing more).
That's why I need the working XTZ for charging before doing anything with the non working one.
What I could try would be to connect the lateral contacts with wires to the dock in order to keep an access to the usb tablet micro port and connect it to a laptop.
But this may be hairy as this would give 2 ways for power (one by the dock and the other by the USB port), and may produce a short circuit...
Any XTZ power experts around ?
Hello, Did you find a solution to this issue ?
Hello, did you find a solution for this issue ? Look like that I had the same.
jzk01 said:
Thanks for your advice, I appreciate.
But I swapped batteries from the working XTZ to the non-working one and put a (about) 60% charged battery into the bricked XTZ (both batteries are charging when set into the working XTZ). I will try anyway.
The problem is that the non working XTZ does not charge either through usb or through the dock. The only interest of the dock is that this is only situation where I can have the "triple white led blink" (but nothing more).
That's why I need the working XTZ for charging before doing anything with the non working one.
What I could try would be to connect the lateral contacts with wires to the dock in order to keep an access to the usb tablet micro port and connect it to a laptop.
But this may be hairy as this would give 2 ways for power (one by the dock and the other by the USB port), and may produce a short circuit...
Any XTZ power experts around ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Canhobix said:
Hello, did you find a solution for this issue ? Look like that I had the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, not a real solution...
I bought a cheap xtz with broken screen and got its working motherboard and put it instead of the other one.I got the lte component too with its antenna and put it into the 1st xtz that was not supposed to have lte.
So now, on one side I have a xtz with faulty motherboard and broken screen, and on the other side a refurbished xtz with LTE !
I like very much this tablet. Very handy, easy to dismantle and easy to swap its components.
The only drawback is no more support for Sony.
Thank you for the answer
So, you are saying that if I replace the motherboard I can fix that ? I'm looking for motherboard on ebay and I found one for $28 usd + shihpping.
Thank you for answering and take care.
jzk01 said:
Well, not a real solution...
I bought a cheap xtz with broken screen and got its working motherboard and put it instead of the other one.I got the lte component too with its antenna and put it into the 1st xtz that was not supposed to have lte.
So now, on one side I have a xtz with faulty motherboard and broken screen, and on the other side a refurbished xtz with LTE !
I like very much this tablet. Very handy, easy to dismantle and easy to swap its components.
The only drawback is no more support for Sony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Canhobix said:
So, you are saying that if I replace the motherboard I can fix that ? I'm looking for motherboard on ebay and I found one for $28 usd + shihpping.
Thank you for answering and take care.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. I think this should be good.
Don't care about the exact matching of the product code: as long as it'll be xtz, it'll be good (16 or 32 gb, with or without lte, and any region should match).
Did you opened it already ?
Yes, I opened 2 years ago cuz my son broke the power jack connector then I replaced that twice.
I'm also tech guy, I can replace that, but won't expend more than $50 for a new motherboard. I'm looking on ebay now.
Thank you
jzk01 said:
Yes. I think this should be good.
Don't care about the exact matching of the product code: as long as it'll be xtz, it'll be good (16 or 32 gb, with or without lte, and any region should match).
Did you opened it already ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello.
Sad moment. I turned on the "s5-charging driver" option in the bios of my Intel Atom Z3735F Teclast X89 Kindow tablet. (I think it is the only thing I changed, but I have a doubt.) After I selected "save and quit" it turned off. And now it will never turn on again. :crying:
I tried holding power for 20 seconds, holding power + vol-, power + vol+, power + vol- + vol+, it never woke up. I opened it, but of course there is no bios battery or pin like on desktop motherboards on these little things. And it seems that you can't reflash bios through USB neither.
I spent this day searching and it seems that unfortunatly the only solution is to reprogramme the bios chip, like someone did here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/help/unbricking-teclast-x89-kindow-t3412968.
So, I have three options :
A. Doing it by myself. schrdlu's instructions seems rather easy to follow. (But knowing myself, there are good chances I run into trouble at some point and need your help.)
But first, I do not have a programmer. Do I have to buy precisely a EZP-XPro to flash this chip or will a cheaper programmer do, like this EZP2010 or this CH341A ? Please someone tell me so I can order it as soon as possible.
Also, I do not find the voltage of the AMI Aptio V on their website. Do I need a 1.8v converter or not ? I do not see any on schrdlu's photo.
B. Finding someone here living in Europe (to avoid customs problems) willing to do the job then ship me back the tablet. How much would you take ? Like, 15€ including shipment ? I love this toy but I am broke and it was 60€ new anyway so I am not spending a lot to fix it.
C. Buying one with a broken screen for cheap, and swap its motherboard with mine. Of course I would lose my data though, it is probably tricky to replace and I may break it in the process.
I received the CH341A programmer, with a 1.8v adapter, but when I read the chip I get only zeros...
I tried billions of times...
I plugged again the claw on the chip so many times that it already look used...
The claw is like on the photo in the other thread, the red wire is where the circle is. I tried so many times that I ended up mistaking and fixing it the wrong way, with the red wire at the other end. I hope I did not burn it by doing so.
1 4 5 8 on the claw pcb is on 1 4 5 8 on the 1.8v adapter. I also tried putting it at the other end, like I saw on photos. No change.
Not a single time it detected the chip to begin with. Manufacturer ID, Memory type and all are always all $00. Or sometimes all $FF.
I set the chip as Gigadevice GD25Q64 as I read. But I only get 00s when reading.
It's making me crazy.
I do not think that the bios chip is dead, all I did to brick the tablet was changing an option in the bios.
I do not even know if the programmer I bought maybe is faulty, I do not have any other bios chip I can try to read with it.
Please, can anybody help ?
have you found a solution to this?
Joanse said:
have you found a solution to this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At last I had the programmer working, but I did not get to revive the tablet.
I did several things, not sure which one fixed the issue.
I bought another 1.8v converter and claw, in case the ones I had were faulty. (I also bought another CH341A but never received it)
I uninstalled and removed drivers, and installed most recent ones I found.
I plugged it directly on the computer, not on a hub.
And at last it detected the chip.
I read it, saved my broken bios dump, and wrote this one inside. Then I checked and it said that the content of the chip matched the file.
But for some reason the tablet would not wake up, even after charging for over an hour.
So I followed the instructions to fix my original bios with MMTool and wrote it back inside. Then I checked again, it said that they matched. And I let it charge again for two hours. But it still won't wake up.
The multimeter says there is 3.78v out of the battery though.
(and I broke the screen glass to cap it all)
update:
I left it unplugged for two hours, and the metal covering the SOC got a little warmer.
Is the tablet actually on ?
I did plug a USB LED to it, to check, but no, no power in the USB port. On my other tablet the USB LED turns on as soon as the tablet turns on.
Does anybody have any idea what is happening, why is the SOC warm while the tablet can't turn on ?
Did you tryed CLR (CLEAR) + GND pins?
perfect_ said:
Did you tryed CLR (CLEAR) + GND pins?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean ?
Worked?
Hi I have an LG Gpad X8.0 v520. It has a full size USB A port. I used to use a Kingston USB 64gb with it. But then one day suddenly it stopped working. The USB was not being detected nor any other device such as usb dongle for a wireless controller. They don't get detected even when I connect using the charging micro-B port with an OTG converter. Sometimes it works perfectly and then it works for like a day maybe two then stops working again. I have no idea what triggers it but the not working times are much more than the working times. My suspicion is that it has something to do with charging the device. Perhaps media is disabled during charging and it doesn't get reenabled. But I don't have the expertise to diagnose the problem I was hoping someone could help. I have already tried restarting every time and the USB devices all work perfectly on their own.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
I am not sure if your device has a mechanical issue ( contacts or pins inside connector? ) or only software.
i have a handful of V521's and some are fast when detecting USB , other take a min or two. whenever the STOCK rom/firmware hangs or does not populate with a new usb device, i power down the device after plugging it into charger. ( this isn't fast..) when its completely in stand-by , waiting to be turned on, wait for the battery icon to pop up on the screen ( charging level / status ). the battery icon that pop's up indicates a hardware controlled charging status. insert your USB and then power ON your tablet. (note: A 1tb SSD - it takes about 9 minutes to populate under LG's file explorer after this) This should work, but from this point on, use the EJECT option ( software ) before removing the device.
-i can confirm on 4 separate V521's that if the battery is 20% or LESS, USB devices won't always work. i never found the perfect tablet charge level, but 80% seems to have no issues for me.
The FACTORY rom only likes certain partition tables, so if your USB drive or thumb drive gets messed up, check it in a linux device. (it ALSO doesn't seem to like more than 2 partitions PER usb device)
-the V521 will see a 4TB SATA SSD in a usb enclosure, but don't expect it to instantly appear.
i use a dedicated LG-v521 tablet , to transfer files wirelessly with my SHIELD TV's.
-last note for ANYONE having issues, try a WOODEN TOOTHPICK if the USB connectors are pushed down or need re-bending. I like to smash a toothpick end with a flat hammer, dip the toothpick in some super thin superglue (CA) , let it dry, and it becomes the perfect contact adjustment tool.
-DE-OX-IT contact cleaner ALSO works wonders, just kind of pricey for a one time fix. ( this stuff is amazing, but ALWAYS WIPE IT OFF after using it, otherwise it continues to remove oxidation and makes a mess )
-there is a current limit set for the USB port on this tablet, and if the USB you try, bumps it or exceeds it, i'll start the process over again with restrictions ( lower power levels ) until a valid handshake.
mprudic0404 said:
I am not sure if your device has a mechanical issue ( contacts or pins inside connector? ) or only software.
i have a handful of V521's and some are fast when detecting USB , other take a min or two. whenever the STOCK rom/firmware hangs or does not populate with a new usb device, i power down the device after plugging it into charger. ( this isn't fast..) when its completely in stand-by , waiting to be turned on, wait for the battery icon to pop up on the screen ( charging level / status ). the battery icon that pop's up indicates a hardware controlled charging status. insert your USB and then power ON your tablet. (note: A 1tb SSD - it takes about 9 minutes to populate under LG's file explorer after this) This should work, but from this point on, use the EJECT option ( software ) before removing the device.
-i can confirm on 4 separate V521's that if the battery is 20% or LESS, USB devices won't always work. i never found the perfect tablet charge level, but 80% seems to have no issues for me.
The FACTORY rom only likes certain partition tables, so if your USB drive or thumb drive gets messed up, check it in a linux device. (it ALSO doesn't seem to like more than 2 partitions PER usb device)
-the V521 will see a 4TB SATA SSD in a usb enclosure, but don't expect it to instantly appear.
i use a dedicated LG-v521 tablet , to transfer files wirelessly with my SHIELD TV's.
-last note for ANYONE having issues, try a WOODEN TOOTHPICK if the USB connectors are pushed down or need re-bending. I like to smash a toothpick end with a flat hammer, dip the toothpick in some super thin superglue (CA) , let it dry, and it becomes the perfect contact adjustment tool.
-DE-OX-IT contact cleaner ALSO works wonders, just kind of pricey for a one time fix. ( this stuff is amazing, but ALWAYS WIPE IT OFF after using it, otherwise it continues to remove oxidation and makes a mess )
-there is a current limit set for the USB port on this tablet, and if the USB you try, bumps it or exceeds it, i'll start the process over again with restrictions ( lower power levels ) until a valid handshake.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having this issue as well. No noticeable physical damage. I factory reset the device too. The usb provides power just fine. But there is no data exchange. I am using a CarPlay dongle with it and it worked all day yesterday then it suddenly didn’t work. At first I thought it was because I drained the battery to 20%. So I charged it and the issue still persists. Any ideas?
HunterDonahue said:
I am having this issue as well. No noticeable physical damage. I factory reset the device too. The usb provides power just fine. But there is no data exchange. I am using a CarPlay dongle with it and it worked all day yesterday then it suddenly didn’t work. At first I thought it was because I drained the battery to 20%. So I charged it and the issue still persists. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried multiple dongles too. Tired usb thumb drives and they don’t detect either.
- does the tablet have WIFI/CELL signal ?
- did you try power cycling with and then WITHOUT the USB device inserted ?
-is the battery near the end of life, IE: old lipo EVEN IF CHARGED will cause nightmares..( changed 7 tablets batteries over weird issues )
- You confirm the USB port still provides power when needed ? (ill post a pic)
Stock ROM? ROOTED?
-whatever device you plug in, does the STOCK FILE EXPLORER show anything ?
-i turned off AUDIO ROUTING USB under DEV settings, not sure if this matters ?
-Conflicting APPS trying to all see the same port ? ( ES FILE EXPLORER gave me issues )
-its possible if you plugged in a USB DEVICE that pulled too much power, the regulating IC failed?
-ODD one here, but did you wait a bit, to see if it populated ?
below is a 8TB drive in a cheap china case, works great, just need to wait about 10 mins for it to populate.
(i use a dedicated V521 for compressing files , then moving them to HARD DRIVES)
- not sure what MICRO SD card everyone uses, but i personaly like the SANSDISK EXTREME PRO ( BLACK RED ) just wish they weren't so expensive. - the V521 will move files from the MICRO SD to HDD at about 50-70MBS
I hope this is the right place I joined the forum a long time ago for help with an old Android phone hopefully I can find some help with this here too.
I bought this about a year ago:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085H9H57Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used an SD card with Emuelec on it had a bit of fun with some retro games and android games, and installed some software to watch videos with it. I used it for about 3 or 4 months then set it aside to focus on other things. Cut to around the beginning of the year I get a new Samsung 4kTV and wanted to hook all my stuff up to it. When I connected this and plugged it in I got stuck in a boot loop. It worked just fine up until the last time I used it and now the boot screen starts discolored for a couple of seconds then changes to its normal color, tries to load for about a minute and then resets. Even with my Emuelec SD card in, it tries to boot, runs through some of the file installation for what looks like the first boot and then resets.
I download the tools to make the stock firmware SD card to reinstall and it seemed to go through the whole process just fine without rebooting, but when I eject the card and restart the device the same thing happens. I have the one program that's supposed to let you connect to the deice through USB to installed the firmware again but it doesn't appear to be recognized by the software (it's likely the cable I'm using isn't a USB2 rated cable or maybe I didn't install the drivers properly) I've tried a couple of different adaptors because some people say maybe the adaptor is junk but I don't have many options with barrel connectors that even fit. I've seen people talk about shorting connections to break a loop, but I'm not an electrician and don't know the first thing about that, That being said I did try to open it an I can see the bottom of the board but I'm not sure how to even get it out of the rest of it's plastic case without breaking something (I think I need a small wrench to disconnect the port for the pointless external antenna.)
Anyone think there's any saving this or should I just call it a loss and move on?
(Update!)
I continued to search for solutions in the meantime after posting this and eventually bought a new adaptor. Without clear information I assumed the adaptor wasn't the issue, but I eventually just on a whim I tried another adaptor I ran across in my pile of electronics that caused the device to suddenly power on and escape the boot loop. Despite fitting the plug perfectly the adaptor I was using doesn't have very legible writing so the actual output can't be read, but this new adaptor seems to be a 12v which seems out of the ordinary to me but what ever it's original use it appears I'll be using it for this case. I'm glad I didn't seem to do any damage to it while searching for a fix (other than the reformat that cleared out my apps). My thanks to anyone that took the time to read this even if you had no advice.