Hello.
Sad moment. I turned on the "s5-charging driver" option in the bios of my Intel Atom Z3735F Teclast X89 Kindow tablet. (I think it is the only thing I changed, but I have a doubt.) After I selected "save and quit" it turned off. And now it will never turn on again. :crying:
I tried holding power for 20 seconds, holding power + vol-, power + vol+, power + vol- + vol+, it never woke up. I opened it, but of course there is no bios battery or pin like on desktop motherboards on these little things. And it seems that you can't reflash bios through USB neither.
I spent this day searching and it seems that unfortunatly the only solution is to reprogramme the bios chip, like someone did here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/help/unbricking-teclast-x89-kindow-t3412968.
So, I have three options :
A. Doing it by myself. schrdlu's instructions seems rather easy to follow. (But knowing myself, there are good chances I run into trouble at some point and need your help.)
But first, I do not have a programmer. Do I have to buy precisely a EZP-XPro to flash this chip or will a cheaper programmer do, like this EZP2010 or this CH341A ? Please someone tell me so I can order it as soon as possible.
Also, I do not find the voltage of the AMI Aptio V on their website. Do I need a 1.8v converter or not ? I do not see any on schrdlu's photo.
B. Finding someone here living in Europe (to avoid customs problems) willing to do the job then ship me back the tablet. How much would you take ? Like, 15€ including shipment ? I love this toy but I am broke and it was 60€ new anyway so I am not spending a lot to fix it.
C. Buying one with a broken screen for cheap, and swap its motherboard with mine. Of course I would lose my data though, it is probably tricky to replace and I may break it in the process.
I received the CH341A programmer, with a 1.8v adapter, but when I read the chip I get only zeros...
I tried billions of times...
I plugged again the claw on the chip so many times that it already look used...
The claw is like on the photo in the other thread, the red wire is where the circle is. I tried so many times that I ended up mistaking and fixing it the wrong way, with the red wire at the other end. I hope I did not burn it by doing so.
1 4 5 8 on the claw pcb is on 1 4 5 8 on the 1.8v adapter. I also tried putting it at the other end, like I saw on photos. No change.
Not a single time it detected the chip to begin with. Manufacturer ID, Memory type and all are always all $00. Or sometimes all $FF.
I set the chip as Gigadevice GD25Q64 as I read. But I only get 00s when reading.
It's making me crazy.
I do not think that the bios chip is dead, all I did to brick the tablet was changing an option in the bios.
I do not even know if the programmer I bought maybe is faulty, I do not have any other bios chip I can try to read with it.
Please, can anybody help ?
have you found a solution to this?
Joanse said:
have you found a solution to this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At last I had the programmer working, but I did not get to revive the tablet.
I did several things, not sure which one fixed the issue.
I bought another 1.8v converter and claw, in case the ones I had were faulty. (I also bought another CH341A but never received it)
I uninstalled and removed drivers, and installed most recent ones I found.
I plugged it directly on the computer, not on a hub.
And at last it detected the chip.
I read it, saved my broken bios dump, and wrote this one inside. Then I checked and it said that the content of the chip matched the file.
But for some reason the tablet would not wake up, even after charging for over an hour.
So I followed the instructions to fix my original bios with MMTool and wrote it back inside. Then I checked again, it said that they matched. And I let it charge again for two hours. But it still won't wake up.
The multimeter says there is 3.78v out of the battery though.
(and I broke the screen glass to cap it all)
update:
I left it unplugged for two hours, and the metal covering the SOC got a little warmer.
Is the tablet actually on ?
I did plug a USB LED to it, to check, but no, no power in the USB port. On my other tablet the USB LED turns on as soon as the tablet turns on.
Does anybody have any idea what is happening, why is the SOC warm while the tablet can't turn on ?
Did you tryed CLR (CLEAR) + GND pins?
perfect_ said:
Did you tryed CLR (CLEAR) + GND pins?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean ?
Worked?
Related
Guys, I'm convinced the usb connector on my 9 month old TP is defective and gets worse each time I use it. I had bought a touchstone charger to ease the connector wear but still, I was eventually having problems with USB data connectivity using store bought cables. I even sent my TP in to fix the connector and when I got it back, still no USB connectivity. Just a completely wiped TP. So HP sent me one of their "genuine" silver dot cables and low and behold it worked fine. (My original cable was lost)
Now, months later, I'm having problems with the USB data connection again. I either get the "Not enough current message" in WebOS or no MTP USB symbol in CM9. Sometimes the PC will chime positively but with an error message (can't detect device). I received another genuine HP cable and it behaves the same as the other one. Inserting them normally, they appear to be in tight, the PC will chime but Windows will say that there's a problem, can't detect device. The only way to get it to work is to insert the microusb side at a 45 degree angle tilted downward and hold it in for 5 seconds, then (ever so slowly) release the pressure to the connector. 50% of the time I'll get a Windows message that says the USB is degraded and run slower than normal (which I think means it thinks its in USB1.1 slow xfer mode) and 50% it works fine at USB 2.0 (until I pull the cable out of the connector). I also have 2 store bought cables that won't ever successfully connect to USB with the TP but work fine with my Samsung cell in both charging and xferring music over to the phone.
So what I'm getting at here is that no standard microusb cable is the same and that there must be something special about the HP genuine one. Do these cables have a resistor on pin 4 ID tied to GND pin 5? Even so, I think what is wearing the most is pins 1 & 2 and maybe 3 (VCC and the data pins) which is why it may only work by concentrating on seating those pins first. Does it make sense that the 'can't detect device' message comes up with just the data lines and ground connected but no VCC? For that matter, why would the battery symbol in CM9 always show the lightning bolt assuming pin 1 VCC is not connected?
I'd appreciate any responses from other members here since I believe without USB the TP could be bricked in case some boot code gets corrupt and you are forced into WebOS recovery mode. This has never happened to me yet and I've installed a lot of nightlies but it COULD happen, no guarantees. What is inevitable is my connector will eventually wear out and my TP will only live until the bootloader DOES get corrupt, hopefully later than sooner. This could be the case with all TP's. Just imagine if in a couple of years everyone's TP's USB port goes bad. Sounds like the devs should figure out a way to fix a bricked TP wirelessly, if that's at all possible.
Thanks,
synchron
One of my Touchpad's had the same problem in Webos it said using wrong charger may not charge or something similar and with Android ie nightly the charging signal came up but it did not charge.
I spoke to HP and pointed out that I have 2 Tablets and that swapping leads or chargers made no difference all combinations worked on one but not the other.
They agreed to fix it and replaced the part. It is now working fine. And as with yours my computer failed to recognize the tablet properly.19 times out of 20 on the one time it did I was able to back up and remove Android before HP picked it up.
I would send it back under warranty or if that has expired state that it was preexisting. Otherwise as you said it is going to become pretty much unusable.
Don't let them fob you off.
Good luck
spaceosc said:
if u bought it during the fire sale u have about a week till (8/20) the one year warranty expires.
http://kb.hpwebos.com/wps/portal/kb/na/touchpad/touchpad/wifi/supportservices/page_en.html
go to palm support and CHAT with them. do not call cuz that cost money.
once u get an RMA they will send a box and take care of Shipping.
then go here to wipe and remove android
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1426244
once wiped send it in and your speaker will be fixed, it will take about a week.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
from another thread
sstar said:
One of my Touchpad's had the same problem in Webos it said using wrong charger may not charge or something similar and with Android ie nightly the charging signal came up but it did not charge.
I spoke to HP and pointed out that I have 2 Tablets and that swapping leads or chargers made no difference all combinations worked on one but not the other.
They agreed to fix it and replaced the part. It is now working fine. And as with yours my computer failed to recognize the tablet properly.19 times out of 20 on the one time it did I was able to back up and remove Android before HP picked it up.
I would send it back under warranty or if that has expired state that it was preexisting. Otherwise as you said it is going to become pretty much unusable.
Don't let them fob you off.
Good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
spaceosc said:
from another thread
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanx for your prompt responses. I bought my TP at the 2nd fire sale through BB in early Nov so I still got a few more months but I would rather wait a bit more since they did nothing the 1st time around. I think the connector is on some daughter board along with the vibrate device which is soldered to the main board. Doesn't sound like a big deal to repair it. Still, what makes the HP cable different then the others? Are there known cables I can get online that might be made better to always work and make better contact than the HP ones?
Synchron
synchron50 said:
Thanx for your prompt responses. I bought my TP at the 2nd fire sale through BB in early Nov so I still got a few more months but I would rather wait a bit more since they did nothing the 1st time around. I think the connector is on some daughter board along with the vibrate device which is soldered to the main board. Doesn't sound like a big deal to repair it. Still, what makes the HP cable different then the others? Are there known cables I can get online that might be made better to always work and make better contact than the HP ones?
Synchron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont wait, ive sent my TP in 3 times, 1st time for charging port, 2nd for a crack around the speaker, 3rd for a busted speaker.
spaceosc said:
dont wait, ive sent my TP in 3 times, 1st time for charging port, 2nd for a crack around the speaker, 3rd for a busted speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your advice. Did they fix everything that was intended? Was turn around time no longer than 2 weeks for each repair? When was your last repair (busted speaker) done? Is your serial number the same or did you ever get a replacement (meaning a refurbished one) back?
Thanks
synchron50 said:
Thanks for your advice. Did they fix everything that was intended? Was turn around time no longer than 2 weeks for each repair? When was your last repair (busted speaker) done? Is your serial number the same or did you ever get a replacement (meaning a refurbished one) back?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i keep track of the serials and they always came back the same. i have more than one pad and i asked for one to be replaced completely. we will see if that happens. but they fix only what u ask for and nothing else.
it can take longer depending on Weekends. takes 2 days to get your box, then 2 days to get it to HP, then 3- 4 days to get your fixed unit. its all done thru UPS, cant send it out on the weekends or receive it
spaceosc said:
i keep track of the serials and they always came back the same. i have more than one pad and i asked for one to be replaced completely. we will see if that happens. but they fix only what u ask for and nothing else.
it can take longer depending on Weekends. takes 2 days to get your box, then 2 days to get it to HP, then 3- 4 days to get your fixed unit. its all done thru UPS, cant send it out on the weekends or receive it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, you are giving me hope to try again while my warranty is still good. Maybe I'll put a big note on the screen PLEASE REPLACE USB CONNECTOR - wouldn't hurt.
Synchron50
I know this is really old, but im finding my self with similar issues and no warrenty
synchron50 said:
Guys, I'm convinced the usb connector on my 9 month old TP is defective and gets worse each time I use it. I had bought a touchstone charger to ease the connector wear but still, I was eventually having problems with USB data connectivity using store bought cables. I even sent my TP in to fix the connector and when I got it back, still no USB connectivity. Just a completely wiped TP. So HP sent me one of their "genuine" silver dot cables and low and behold it worked fine. (My original cable was lost)
Now, months later, I'm having problems with the USB data connection again. I either get the "Not enough current message" in WebOS or no MTP USB symbol in CM9. Sometimes the PC will chime positively but with an error message (can't detect device). I received another genuine HP cable and it behaves the same as the other one. Inserting them normally, they appear to be in tight, the PC will chime but Windows will say that there's a problem, can't detect device. The only way to get it to work is to insert the microusb side at a 45 degree angle tilted downward and hold it in for 5 seconds, then (ever so slowly) release the pressure to the connector. 50% of the time I'll get a Windows message that says the USB is degraded and run slower than normal (which I think means it thinks its in USB1.1 slow xfer mode) and 50% it works fine at USB 2.0 (until I pull the cable out of the connector). I also have 2 store bought cables that won't ever successfully connect to USB with the TP but work fine with my Samsung cell in both charging and xferring music over to the phone.
So what I'm getting at here is that no standard microusb cable is the same and that there must be something special about the HP genuine one. Do these cables have a resistor on pin 4 ID tied to GND pin 5? Even so, I think what is wearing the most is pins 1 & 2 and maybe 3 (VCC and the data pins) which is why it may only work by concentrating on seating those pins first. Does it make sense that the 'can't detect device' message comes up with just the data lines and ground connected but no VCC? For that matter, why would the battery symbol in CM9 always show the lightning bolt assuming pin 1 VCC is not connected?
I'd appreciate any responses from other members here since I believe without USB the TP could be bricked in case some boot code gets corrupt and you are forced into WebOS recovery mode. This has never happened to me yet and I've installed a lot of nightlies but it COULD happen, no guarantees. What is inevitable is my connector will eventually wear out and my TP will only live until the bootloader DOES get corrupt, hopefully later than sooner. This could be the case with all TP's. Just imagine if in a couple of years everyone's TP's USB port goes bad. Sounds like the devs should figure out a way to fix a bricked TP wirelessly, if that's at all possible.
Thanks,
synchron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi all. I know this thread is really old, but I'm finding myself dealing with similar issues. And I'm obviously out of warranty. I can't get windows, linux, or Toolbox to pick up the USB. I'm actually in a worse case scenario mention here and am stuck in meboot, TWRP, and WebOS recovery, because I had wiped the rom. It must be an issue with the USB port, I've lost track of my original Hp touchpad OEM cable, and have tried every USB cable I can find. Any help would be appreciated.
I hope I have this in the right section, if Im wrong please forgive me. So I did something really stupid thinking I could get around compatibility issues, and now I am asking myself "why did you do that? You know better."
Anyways, heres the scoop: I bought an android tv box running 4.0 ICS theres no model number on the box, but Im sure people smarter than I know what Im talking about. Anyways, I gave the unit to a friend of mine and he made a complaint, so I switched him for a spare roku I had. When I had the box, I did the first stupid thing- I was trying to take out the sd card and thought that if I press it in, it will pop out. Which it didnt and instead shoved the sd card into the casing and caused the solder holding the metal shell (that holds sd card in place) to break. No big deal, I just used my friends soldering iron and reattached it. Then I got home and wanted to mess with it. But I have an analog tv and this unit only has hdmi output, although it has one port for av and one for y/pb/pr (it looks like earphone jacks). So in my extremely keen insight and extensive expertise, I plugged the hdmi cable into the unit (without power cable attached) and plugged it into the hdmi port on my roku. On the system the light went blue (which indicates its on) and stayed like that, I looked in the settings thinking maybe it "picked it up". Anyways, the roku reset itself and the android box blue light was blinking- so I thought "HMM I should probably unhook that" so I did and called it a night. Next day I went to see a friend of mine and plugged in into his lcd tv, tried to turn it on, and it wont. When I plug in the power adapt. it shows the red light that there is power, but when pressing the on button the color doesnt change (to show its on) and same when trying to turn it on with remote. I looked over the MOBO but no signs of anything exploded or burnt. I made a bootable usb with android 4.0 firmware and an sd, but nothing.
Any ideas on how to fix this? Theres no warranty, I bought it from craigslist and if worst comes to worst Ill put it on a chain and call it nerd bling. Im open to other suggestions as well, and help related to the issue with possible solutions.
Hi,
Please, be patient while reading this post, this is a looong explanation of the brick I am facing...
I recently was given a non working XTZ SGP311 and tried to get it back to life. As I have another one SGP311 (this one is perfectly working), I am able to check many things.
I read most of topics about XTZ unbrick but can't find any way to get it back working.
The problem is that I can't have any signal from usb (data or power). I use a genuine Sony USB cable and genuine Sony charging adapter (coming from the working SGP311). The led always stays off.
I tried the different combos as described (vol- and power ; vol+ and power ; vol+ and vol- and power) during 5, 10, 20, 30 seconds (yes, quite complete tests).
I did a cross check of batteries and inside usb connector ribbon (yes, had to open both tablets for that), the working tablet continues to work with the 2 parts coming from the faulty one (battery coming from dead tablet was 0% charged), so the problem is not on the side of the inside usb connector neither on the side of a supposed dead battery. The faulty tablet doesn't boot, even with a fully charged battery inside.
I luckily own a XTZ dock (SGPDS5) that allows to charge without using usb connector (it uses the 2 contacts located on the left side of the tablet). That's the only way to get something...
Soooo, when I put the bricked tablet on its dock, the red led flashes very slowy (say, 1 second off, 1 second on red, and so on).
When I press vol- and power, nothing happens (no matter 5/10/15/20/25 seconds).
When I press vol- and vol+ and power, idem.
When I press vol+ and power : I got the sequence blinks once white led / blinks 3 times white led (after that goes to slow red blinking about if I keep the keys pressed). So not completely dead.
If I unplug it from the dock right after the third white blink, plug the usb cable to the tablet, plug it to my laptop (with emma running, tried with pc companion too), and press vol-, then....nothing happens. Really nothing. No led lit. No detection of anything from the laptop (or device manager as well). It would have been the same if I would have kept it unplugged.
To sum it up, the only thing I can have is 1 or 3 white blinks after having plugged the SGP311 on its docks.
IMO, the trouble comes from a faulty component inside the tablet. Maybe the one that manages the connection from the usb ribbon plug. I checked the tiny plugs inside the tablet (once dismantled and back repacked too), all seems in order.
Your help is welcome !
This is similar to an issue I have it sounds like, you can still flash stock rom by holding power + volume till it blinks 3x then plug USB in and hold volume down immediately.
This gives flash mode, you can use flash tool to put stock rom on with this. The issue happens when it's acting like there's no OS it seems. Problem is mines doing this everytime I flash a custom rom, it's fine with stock aside from **** wifi
Thanks for your help. I tried that yesterday and it did not work.
This may be related to the way of reset I use (but I can't have any other).
As I can't get any white blinking led when connected by the tablet micro-usb port, the one and only way to get the 3 times white blinking led is when the XTZ is on its dock (SGP DS5, power connection only by lateral contacts).
What I tried yesterday was to get the 3 time white blinking led (vol+ and Power), then output the tablet off the dock and connect a usb cable to a laptop running Sony Emma (from micro usb tablet port to usb laptop).
Precision : I kept VOL- pressed when pluging usb cable to laptop.
No result at all. No detection (either Emma nor windows).
Any idea ?
jzk01 said:
Thanks for your help. I tried that yesterday and it did not work.
This may be related to the way of reset I use (but I can't have any other).
As I can't get any white blinking led when connected by the tablet micro-usb port, the one and only way to get the 3 times white blinking led is when the XTZ is on its dock (SGP DS5, power connection only by lateral contacts).
What I tried yesterday was to get the 3 time white blinking led (vol+ and Power), then output the tablet off the dock and connect a usb cable to a laptop running Sony Emma (from micro usb tablet port to usb laptop).
Precision : I kept VOL- pressed when pluging usb cable to laptop.
No result at all. No detection (either Emma nor windows).
Any idea ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
let it charge for a night period. Then try to flash again.
Rootk1t said:
let it charge for a night period. Then try to flash again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your advice, I appreciate.
But I swapped batteries from the working XTZ to the non-working one and put a (about) 60% charged battery into the bricked XTZ (both batteries are charging when set into the working XTZ). I will try anyway.
The problem is that the non working XTZ does not charge either through usb or through the dock. The only interest of the dock is that this is only situation where I can have the "triple white led blink" (but nothing more).
That's why I need the working XTZ for charging before doing anything with the non working one.
What I could try would be to connect the lateral contacts with wires to the dock in order to keep an access to the usb tablet micro port and connect it to a laptop.
But this may be hairy as this would give 2 ways for power (one by the dock and the other by the USB port), and may produce a short circuit...
Any XTZ power experts around ?
Hello, Did you find a solution to this issue ?
Hello, did you find a solution for this issue ? Look like that I had the same.
jzk01 said:
Thanks for your advice, I appreciate.
But I swapped batteries from the working XTZ to the non-working one and put a (about) 60% charged battery into the bricked XTZ (both batteries are charging when set into the working XTZ). I will try anyway.
The problem is that the non working XTZ does not charge either through usb or through the dock. The only interest of the dock is that this is only situation where I can have the "triple white led blink" (but nothing more).
That's why I need the working XTZ for charging before doing anything with the non working one.
What I could try would be to connect the lateral contacts with wires to the dock in order to keep an access to the usb tablet micro port and connect it to a laptop.
But this may be hairy as this would give 2 ways for power (one by the dock and the other by the USB port), and may produce a short circuit...
Any XTZ power experts around ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Canhobix said:
Hello, did you find a solution for this issue ? Look like that I had the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, not a real solution...
I bought a cheap xtz with broken screen and got its working motherboard and put it instead of the other one.I got the lte component too with its antenna and put it into the 1st xtz that was not supposed to have lte.
So now, on one side I have a xtz with faulty motherboard and broken screen, and on the other side a refurbished xtz with LTE !
I like very much this tablet. Very handy, easy to dismantle and easy to swap its components.
The only drawback is no more support for Sony.
Thank you for the answer
So, you are saying that if I replace the motherboard I can fix that ? I'm looking for motherboard on ebay and I found one for $28 usd + shihpping.
Thank you for answering and take care.
jzk01 said:
Well, not a real solution...
I bought a cheap xtz with broken screen and got its working motherboard and put it instead of the other one.I got the lte component too with its antenna and put it into the 1st xtz that was not supposed to have lte.
So now, on one side I have a xtz with faulty motherboard and broken screen, and on the other side a refurbished xtz with LTE !
I like very much this tablet. Very handy, easy to dismantle and easy to swap its components.
The only drawback is no more support for Sony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Canhobix said:
So, you are saying that if I replace the motherboard I can fix that ? I'm looking for motherboard on ebay and I found one for $28 usd + shihpping.
Thank you for answering and take care.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. I think this should be good.
Don't care about the exact matching of the product code: as long as it'll be xtz, it'll be good (16 or 32 gb, with or without lte, and any region should match).
Did you opened it already ?
Yes, I opened 2 years ago cuz my son broke the power jack connector then I replaced that twice.
I'm also tech guy, I can replace that, but won't expend more than $50 for a new motherboard. I'm looking on ebay now.
Thank you
jzk01 said:
Yes. I think this should be good.
Don't care about the exact matching of the product code: as long as it'll be xtz, it'll be good (16 or 32 gb, with or without lte, and any region should match).
Did you opened it already ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i had my rbox pro 3+32 for 2 weeks which immediately showed power issues randomly cutting out i contacted the seller who gave me a 25% refund if i agreed to keep the box so i thought a sd burning update of the new firmware may fix it but it cut out just as update was starting now it is hard bricked with no tv output and only a light blue light with a reset button not seeming to work (i have since found the power adapter was causing the orig power cutout issues and replaced it), i have tried to do sd burn but nothing happens, i have tried usb burn but does not connect i tried shorting pins next to the bga emmc where an older style nand chip could have been optioned , i cant even get it to connect via uart ttl
i have tried to find another solution but im all out of luck any help would be appreciated
my only other idea is to remove emmc chip and install a sd card socket in its place but i cant find any info on this and im not sure if its even possible
Ok finally all sorted by soldering 2 wires on the old tsop pads (even though it uses a bga emmc) and holding the wires together for 8 seconds from the time i plugged in the power, also it had to be powered via a usb port instead of main plug as the sd didnt seem to get power to it while it was bricked using the main plug ??. anyways after the 8 seconds the screen lit up and i opened the shorted wires and the sd update started, after 10- 12 minutes it completed and all is well
I used the h96pro plus android 7.1 firmware and it seems to be very compatible with no issues that i have noticed so far
Any way you could document your process a little more? Like which pads you used? My r-box died watching youtube, and stops at 7% using usb burning tool, and also stops right away using sdcard method. Would love to revive this device.
smashdotcom said:
Any way you could document your process a little more? Like which pads you used? My r-box died watching youtube, and stops at 7% using usb burning tool, and also stops right away using sdcard method. Would love to revive this device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the same problem 7% dead
I'm wondering if anyone has suffered with and recovered from the sudden case of no charging/USB>PC recognition?
I've seen countless similar stories across the web, covering many of the Z Family. Some were simple reset jobbies, and I've seen as in-depth as what I'm assuming is an IC being removed, flux cleaned and re-applied (w ww .you tube. com/watch?v=ZyCeNfc99a0).
I purchased a new charger port and also a new battery, as I figured with all the insane constant burning of my pocket, it could use a new one. I'd hoped it was just a charger port issue, but much to my dismay, the issue still persists after fitting them.
I've tried every single button combination "fix", and all to no avail. Multiple leads, charger units, all that polava. Checked and cleaned connections with isopropyl alcohol, checked for burned-out looking mainboard components, at least those that are visible.
I was having minor inconsistent charging issues for a while, up until last Friday. I figured it was the USB port on the phone or the leads, and put it down to general wear and tear.
Last Friday I was at my mates house with super low battery, popped it on charge round his and I noticed it had died completely and kept boot cycling, like the charger was being plugged in and taken out over and over.
I took it out and tried it when I got home with the regular charger, and nothing. My phone is otherwise in mint condition and has been looked after since day one release in the UK.
I'm wondering if some super helpful person here would possibly have some other alternatives that haven't been mentioned, whether a hardware bypass or some trick that isn't amidst the countless cries for help out there.
Many thanks in advance.
Hello,
I have a problem when connecting to a charger it will go in strange charging mode that actually does not charge. It makes the sound like a charger is connected, no charging animation on battery though...
The problem for me it was the USB cable used for charging (i have changed 5 of them in 1 and a half years). Also same behavior happens when using a under 1A wall charger.
P.S. : The USB cables that i have changed they still work fine with other devices/phones .... but not with my Z5C. I`m not sure what but is definetly something wrong withe phone usb port (and it is not dirt).
no, but
I cannot get a usable USB connection to my computer, but if I hold Volume Up while connecting the USB cable to the computer, the charger LED turns red for a moment, then blue. It WILL charge in this mode, which I think is fastboot mode. Someone said it bypasses the charge circuitry or software, which makes me think that maybe I could go into developer mode and turn on OEM unlocking to see if I can stop it from trying to optimize charging. I also have not tried all the USB connection modes yet.
I tried to charge with this blue light technique on the wall charger, but that did not work. Just ran the battery down again and I could not boot the phone.
I know if I press Volume Down while connecting the USB cable to my computer that the charger LED turns green, but I am not sure it will charge in that mode. I think this is for flashing or something, but since my computer does not recognize the USB device no matter what I do, I don't think flashing is an option.
Oh, and when I do charge the phone with the blue light special (old obscure USA discount retailer reference), for some reason the charger LED flashes white every 4 to 5 seconds, but it seems to keep enough charge to get me through at least the day until I can charge again by same method.
Maybe we can keep pooling info here. I got the blue light technique from someone else on this site, so there are people here who know quite a bit about this phone, thankfully.
Well, I had that issue, too (at least it sounds pretty familiar).
https://forum.xda-developers.com/z5-compact/help/wont-off-issues-t3485575
Does your phone also believe to be connected to "something" all the time?
I fear there is some IC fried, although I never dared to open my phone.
My "solution" was to talk my local salesman into giving me a (used, but working) replacement phone, and I did not want him to find any traces of DIY
So, no, I never found a technical solution, probably they just scrapped my phone for spare parts, idk.
The root cause for my error (probably) was a faulty charger, therefore I am pretty sure I fried something hardware-like, but depending on your cause, ymmv.
Anyway, trying to clean your USB port, re-soldering the connector and/or replacing the battery sounds like being worth a try, anyway.
// edit: "cat /sys/class/power_supply/usb/present" used to always output 1, even when not connected. On my now-good Z5C this works like it should (connected ->1, not connected -> 0)
Hey people. I have tried all the tricks for several days. Tried several charging cables. Nothing worked for me. I just brought a new phone, and it came with a cheapo charging cable. Decided to plug it into my Xperia and it worked. Maybe a little fairy fixed my phone when I was out buying a new one. Anyway, I'm love my Xperia Z5. Using it right now. Good luck people