Hi. I am running my OnePlus 7t Pro with Lineage Recovery and LineagOS 19.1.
I had the battery exchanged with a new OnePlus battery. No after market crap. Before the exchange, the same LineageOS version die no show any of the problems.
Since then, my battery shows wired percentages. About 500-1000 mAh are used from 100% to 1% and for the rest of the battery runs on 1% for about 2000-2500 mAh. Sometimes the percentages jump down 10% in seconds. See attached images for reference.
What have I tried so far:
I have tried the usual calibration method 3 times so far, with no change to the problem.
1) draining the battery until phone switches off 2) Charging > 4 hours with phone off
3) Switching phone on, while still charging
4) Continue charging
This did not solve the problem.
Tried to dirty flash twrp to delete cache. Cannot do it. When I use
fastboot boot twrp.img the phone stops after a restart just showing an image fastboot mode".
Thanks for your help guys
mugel2110 said:
When I use
fastboot boot twrp.img the phone stops after a restart just showing an image fastboot mode".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try fastboot flash boot twrp.img instead, if you want to install a new TWRP.
To delete the cache, why not start in recovery mode? Lineage 19 tends to install its own recovery, overwriting an existent TWRP. It looks different, but deleting the cache should also be possible in this recovery...
chrysopra said:
Try fastboot flash boot twrp.img instead, if you want to install a new TWRP.
To delete the cache, why not start in recovery mode? Lineage 19 tends to install its own recovery, overwriting an existent TWRP. It looks different, but deleting the cache should also be possible in this recovery...
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Click to collapse
Sorry. Forget to mention. I used fastboot boot to use the twrp.zip installer. Using flash with twrp.img leads to the same result. Without lineage os being booted.
But does not look like the chance thing would solve my issues.
https://www.reddit.com/r/LineageOS/comments/pk8scm
First enter recovery mode (Shut down phone, then start it with simultaneously pressing power and volume down. After starting release both buttons and you will enter recovery mode)
There`s a very simple menu, not to compare with TWRP. Maybe under the "Advanced" button you could find a wipe cache...
Nope. No such feature in Lineage recovery. And other idea for the battery problem?
From within Lineage recovery you should be able to install a TWRP (either placing it in the download folder before or mounting an attached USB drive) Then, you could try to clear the cache.
As for the 7t weekly Lineage updates are provided, this may also be an option...
Sorry no. Was running with the exact same Software smoothly. My besteht guess right now is a faulty replacment battery from oneplus
Thats the current state
The battery of the 7 pro has got a capacity of about 4000 mAh. A fully drained battery should require about 90 Minutes on a standard USB2 port to become fully charged. USB3 delivers 4.5 Watts, therefore about 50 Minutes. (Loading with phone turned off) If your new battery is fully charged in shorter Time, this is strong evidence of a faulty battery.
As the percentage values of your phone seem to be unreliable, you could take the battery voltages, which should be accessible in AccuBattery as a measure for the energy status. If the voltage values correspond to the load percentages, then it`s almost proven, it`s no software problem...
Roughly 2000 mAh of the 2700 mAh used with 1% of battery. Above 1% I had about 4,050 mV. With 1% I had also about 4,000 mV. Than it starts to drop with ongoing usage. Now I have 3,700. Somewhere below 3500 the phone switches off.
Roughly 2000 mAh of the 2700 mAh used with 1% of battery. Above 1% I had about 4,050 mV. With 1% I had also about 4,000 mV. Than it starts to drop with ongoing usage. Now I have 3,700. Somewhere below 3500 the phone switches off.
Edit. Wired behaviour obsereved.
1) let the phone dying, charged it to 100% in switched off state, wait until it shows 100%, switched it on and the OS shows 100%
2) let the phone dying, charged it overnight in switched off state. In the morning it shows 100%, switched it on, OS reports 86%, switch it off, system shows 86% and charges. I could repeat the process. Charge it up to 100%, boot OS. OS reports a different value. Repeated it for 86, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 99, 97, 97, 100%.
By now, I really think that the chip of the bettery reports nonsense.
Your battery voltage is about 0,2V too low. Therefore it switches off at 3,5 V (instead of 3,7) and a fully loaded System shows 86% (@ 4V, I assume)
The software interpretes those Voltages as a (wrong) charge state.
You have got an additional resistor in your power supply (maybe a bad cable or not fully engaged connector). The spikes in charge state occur surely under heavy load, where the voltage drops, as the resistance prohibits your battery from delivery of full juice. If power consumption is back to normal, then the voltage raises again and the charge state is back to "normal".
You will have to reopen the phone (yes, it`s a pain in the ass) and check the resistance between battery and mainboard...
chrysopra said:
Your battery voltage is about 0,2V too low. Therefore it switches off at 3,5 V (instead of 3,7) and a fully loaded System shows 86% (@ 4V, I assume)
The software interpretes those Voltages as a (wrong) charge state.
You have got an additional resistor in your power supply (maybe a bad cable or not fully engaged connector). The spikes in charge state occur surely under heavy load, where the voltage drops, as the resistance prohibits your battery from delivery of full juice. If power consumption is back to normal, then the voltage raises again and the charge state is back to "normal".
You will have to reopen the phone (yes, it`s a pain in the ass) and check the resistance between battery and mainboard...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Full battery is 4,300 mV. 79% is still 4,300 mV and 65% is still in this area 4270 mV (See screenshot).
I use Geekbench to drain the battery for the calibration process. When I put heavy load on the CPU/GPU (e.g. Geekbench 5) the voltage drops by a guesstimate of 200-300 mV and recovers a few seconds after I stopped the load.
Seems to be exactly the behaviour you are describing.
I'll report the result after opening up the phone...urgh. don't wanna do it.
mugel2110 said:
I'll report the result after opening up the phone...urgh. don't wanna do it.
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Click to collapse
Were are the good old times, when you could swap a battery within a minute?
Even Glued together, most of the phones are still dying, when submerged in water. So I cant´t see any real progress, except for the revenues of service stations...
The battery of my 6t is still ok, but I´m afraid the day where a change is necessary.
chrysopra said:
Were are the good old times, when you could swap a battery within a minute?
Even Glued together, most of the phones are still dying, when submerged in water. So I cant´t see any real progress, except for the revenues of service stations...
The battery of my 6t is still ok, but I´m afraid the day where a change is necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It feels so wrong to hit the phone with high temperatures to loosen the clue.
mugel2110 said:
Full battery is 4,300 mV. 79% is still 4,300 mV and 65% is still in this area 4270 mV (See screenshot).
I use Geekbench to drain the battery for the calibration process. When I put heavy load on the CPU/GPU (e.g. Geekbench 5) the voltage drops by a guesstimate of 200-300 mV and recovers a few seconds after I stopped the load.
Seems to be exactly the behaviour you are describing.
I'll report the result after opening up the phone...urgh. don't wanna do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem with a battery bought from repairoutlet uk, lineage os also.
But I thought it was a problem with the battery.
I hope you will keep us updated ..
MAkram9008 said:
I have the same problem with a battery bought from repairoutlet uk, lineage os also.
But I thought it was a problem with the battery.
I hope you will keep us updated ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will. Just hard to get hands on a new OEM battery right now that not just has the OEM sticker, but is really original.
So guys. I have a new battery in. I'll keep you posted. After a first full charge, it seems that I have now the reversed problem already 100% for 60 minutes. Let's see after the first discharge/charge cycle
Glad to read your problem seems solved. The downside is, there are batteries sold as new and maybe "original", that are almost completly useless.
You may not expect the full lifetime and/or capacity when buying a third party battery, but I never encountered such a catastrophic specimen.
Especially with modern devices, where you can't just easily swap the battery within a minute, this is very painful.
What I've learned:
1. Buy only from credible sources, where you may get a refund, if you're not satisfied.
2. In any case, before attaching the backcover after a replacement, first check the battery status.
Related
Just wanted to open up a thread here to see what we can do about battery calibration issues.
Not sure, but I read around that people are getting phone shut downs at the 10%-15% ranges.
When in actual fact it should be somewhere around the 1%-5% range?
Was wondering if there is some possibility in coding the phone to read the battery state better? Thus, eliminating the need for calibrating the battery through tradition means (ie: wiping, charging, etc)
Thoughts?
EDITS:
We've managed to figure out huge boundaries for the battery.
There are currently two ways to get your battery into "learn mode" - which will adjust the values of your battery to accurately reflect it's "age" and mAh tracking. This will lead to a fix for those of you who are currently facing issues with the battery shutting down anytime before the 1% mark.
1st fix:
1) Drain battery
2) Just as the battery hits "Shutting Down", plug in your charger
3) Let the phone power down
4) DO NOT TURN ON THE PHONE
5) Let it charge up overnight or something along the lines of 4-6 hours, which should ensure it will be fully charged
6) Power up, your phone should be calibrated and will now shut off at 1%
2nd fix:
Head over to the Battery Calibration Tool Thread which spawned off from the discussions here!
>> http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=765609
For those who have been following the thread and wonder what your status_reg value mean theloginwithnoname has kindly provided us with some datasheets and translations, which you can get with the following links:
Binary Conversion: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8013370&postcount=548
Then refer to Page 25 of the following datasheet: http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/DS2784.pdf
OR you can try out mtw4991's method to get learn mode done with the battery app that's been created out of this brainstorm thread.
The link to his method is > http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=9583271&postcount=340
I began this thread in other to simply find a fix for our current battery % meter. Basically, users (myself included) were having a problem with inaccurate battery % readings. Some N1's would shut down above 1% and this would leave many guessing when the battery would give out.
Needless to say, here at XDA - we managed to find the fixes. ;-)
And of course, we decided to take it to the next level.
How can we now push more out of our batteries?
RogerPodacter and theloginwithnoname have been working endlessly learning and understanding the how the battery registry works and together with dvgrhl they're finalizing a battery mod app which will help the N1 cope with the "learn mode" and changes. So do thank them for the great work they've been pushing out with! =)
They've helped us hammer out all the core details concerning the battery understanding, values, binaries, and we're wading through the mess to push the limits on the batteries (short of blowing them up as usual of course).
Be patient if the app isn't ready yet. And if you're a n00b, please don't mess around with the registry values and such if you have absolutely no idea what you're doing.
No one is gonna give a rat's poopoo if you blow up your phone and set your house on fire and gremlins kidnap your toes.
Peace out.
This thread is and methodology has served its purpose and many of us from this thread have moved on over to the Battery Calibration TOOL thread. The methods still work, but so do the newer methods at the tool thread, which I personally find is much easier and better.
If you'd like to use the manual method, it'll still work.
For those more interested in the newer method and I encourage you to do so - head on over through this link > http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=765609
+1
It happened to me yesterday. I am playing with my phone and I needed to check an important address on Google Maps, so I was thinking "Oh great I still have 9% battery" and then all of a sudden BOOM. It powered off. I mean seriously WHY have those extra 9% if I am never going to use them. So In reality my phone battery is like 80%
100%-(first 10% which drain in like 5-6minutes) - 10% that I never use cause the phone shuts off = 80% BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO NOT COOL
happened to me on cm 5.0.7.1 about 7% battery
I guess this would be an appropriate time/place to ask this question. I had someone PM me asking how to calibrate their battery and I didn't know if I provided them with the correct response. What I've always done is let the battery drain ALL the way down until it dies~usually about 1% and then fully charge the phone while it is off. Then, let it die down once again on that charge and repeat the charging while the phone is off. Is that the correct way to calibrate the battery or am I taking unneccesary steps?
THATTON said:
I guess this would be an appropriate time/place to ask this question. I had someone PM me asking how to calibrate their battery and I didn't know if I provided them with the correct response. What I've always done is let the battery drain ALL the way down until it dies~usually about 1% and then fully charge the phone while it is off. Then, let it die down once again on that charge and repeat the charging while the phone is off. Is that the correct way to calibrate the battery or am I taking unneccesary steps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea as well honestly. I've never charged my phone while it's off... so that might be the issue...
But then again, my phone has often turned off at the 10% mark. So that's why I thought I'd get more input here on how we can actually find a way to calibrate our batteries or something.
i have two oem batteries and a dock..Everyday I completely drain the first and swap it out with a fully charged one off the dock and both batteries perform great and never shut down above 1% every single time. So the batteries are always completely drained and then have a slow no stress recharge, maybe this is why mine go to 1%?
chowlala said:
No idea as well honestly. I've never charged my phone while it's off... so that might be the issue...
But then again, my phone has often turned off at the 10% mark. So that's why I thought I'd get more input here on how we can actually find a way to calibrate our batteries or something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I notice that if I charge my phone while it is off and take it off about 20 minutes after the light turns green, the discharge rate is MUCH slower than if I charge it while the phone is on. Or, I will charge it while on, let it get to 100%, turn it off and continue to charge until the light turns green again. Either of those two ways give me the best results for battery life.
Doesn't the Li-on type of battery calibrate itself when charged from 0% (or the specified minimum) to 100%?
THATTON said:
I notice that if I charge my phone while it is off and take it off about 20 minutes after the light turns green, the discharge rate is MUCH slower than if I charge it while the phone is on. Or, I will charge it while on, let it get to 100%, turn it off and continue to charge until the light turns green again. Either of those two ways give me the best results for battery life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm. Interesting thought. Guess letting it charge to 100 while its on is one thing, then turn it off so it maxes out before daily use. I'll try that tomorrow morning and see.
Stats have been recalibrated to pershoots kernels already. So tomorrow will be a good testing day.
LiOn batteries should NOT be drained completely. It is bad for them. You should simply charge to 100%, turn the phone off, let it continue to charge (you may be at 100% when in OS but not truly 100% to the battery) and then wipe battery stats.
hah2110 said:
LiOn batteries should NOT be drained completely. It is bad for them. You should simply charge to 100%, turn the phone off, let it continue to charge (you may be at 100% when in OS but not truly 100% to the battery) and then wipe battery stats.
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Click to collapse
Yeah, the discharge part is actually true. There's more info here bout the batts, but nothing much bout calibration.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=669497
chowlala said:
Hmm. Interesting thought. Guess letting it charge to 100 while its on is one thing, then turn it off so it maxes out before daily use. I'll try that tomorrow morning and see.
Stats have been recalibrated to pershoots kernels already. So tomorrow will be a good testing day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The biggest thing I noticed right off the bat in doing this was that normally my battery drains from 100% to 90% in less than 30 minutes. After doing what I suggested, I see that my battery discharges much slower from 100% to 90%! Hope it works for you.
My phone was doing that ALL the time. Here's what i did that fixed the issue for me.
1.) Let my phone die as usual.
2.) KEPT IT DEAD... for 1 day
3.) Charged with the phone OFF for 1 day.
4.) Went to RA's recovery as soon as i turned the phone on and reset Battery Settings.
5.) Rebooted and all is well.
I hope this helps someone else.
(My phone would die at 13% EVERY time. It got really annoying when trying to Navigate when i forgot my USB cord for my PowerCup. :< )
And yes i know about the whole not letting Lion Batteries die. When i worked for T-Mobile and the customers would bring in their N1's doing this, every call to HTC this is what they told me to do. (Minus the whole awesome recovery and such). They said letting the battery drain will not hurt the phone as long as it regains 100% charge after the initial drain.
AGAIN. This worked for Me. So im not promising you anything. Plus the batteries are only 25 bucks from Google. And i have 4 extras... Just in case. I would invest in some if i were you. Cause lord knows, were going to do some SERIOUS stuff to our phones. Extra Batts dont hurt.
Lithium batteries don't have memories, that's a leftover idea from the old Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) and NiMh (Nickel Metal-Hydride) days. The idea with Lithium (Ion & Polymer) should pretty much just be charged up whenever. Letting them be drained completely isn't good for them and will reduce their lifespan (reduced mAh) although it won't almost immediately kill them ala lead-acids. Overcharging them via a circuit with a poor cutoff also isn't good for them as they'll heat up, phones or any decent AC charger should stop charging when they hit 100% though.
Probably about the best you can do is charge it to 100%, pull the battery and reboot the phone and then reboot it again. The charge calculation will be based on the rated mAh of the battery which depending on the quality of the battery and the charging system of the device could end up giving you some funny figures. Not much you can do about it though.
I just wanted to say that this link does mention a proper calibration charge, it just does not go into detail.
Item 3 of "General Lithium-Ion Battery (LIBs)Usage":
• Although it is said that LIBs do not have memory, it's not entirely true. LIBs have gauges that monitor performance of cells, and if you do a lot of small charges, it won't let those gauges to monitor a full battery potential, causing an invalid indication of charge level. A complete charge/discharge should be made when battery capacity seems reduced, that will calibrate gauges and they will provide your phone with correct charge level status. A full charge/discharge cycle should be done every 30 (or so) partial charges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My assumption of a complete charge/discharge cycle would be:
1. drain battery until the device dies
2. charge the battery to 100%
3. power device on
4. drain battery fully until device dies (no small charges!)
5. charge battery to 100%
This should allow the battery gauges to recalibrate and improve battery capacity.
People seem to be in the dark about lithium ion batteries, how they are charged, and how the device estimates battery charge remaining.
Lithium batteries do not have memory effects, but the phone does keep a file with charge info about the battery; it uses this to estimate charge left and how to charge safely when the device is powered on.
When properly charging a Li-ion battery, the last 10% of the charge should take almost as long as the time it takes to charge from 0 to 90% (well about half as long meaning a full third of the charging time should be going into the last 10% of the charge) Charging with the device off, charges the battery more completely and consistently.
Li-ion battery chargers use a type of charge cycle called constant amp/constant voltage. The battery will be force fed amps until the battery's voltage peaks and it will then be fed a constant voltage. (around the 90% charge mark) During the constant voltage phase, the amps that the battery is taking in will be monitored; as the battery gets closer to full charge the amperage will drop more and more, until it is just a tiny trickle. When it gets to that point, the battery is fully charged. Obviously charging with the device still powered on creates a problem for that type of charging. So the battery can only be charged to the peak voltage, then the charge cycle must stop; as the last 10-15% of the charge can not be completed safely.
It is always good to let a device run until dead and then charge with the device off a couple times when the device is new, and then charge the device from empty while powered off once every couple months. (do not do it too often, as Li-ion batteries prefer to be between 50-80% charge for longer service life) This allows the device to maintain a proper reference data file on the battery and its charge state. this data file is what Android uses to estimate the charge in the battery, if the file is not accurate, the device may power down sooner than it should, or not charge fully to a true 100% state. (peak voltage state when powered on that is)
Also, Li-ion batteries are rated for capacity from a discharged voltage of 3v. So a 1500Mah battery is rated to provide 1500mah of power from fully charged to a final discharged voltage of 3v.
I do not know what the minimum operating voltage of various devices is, but if it is higher than 3v; then the phone must shut down at its min operating voltage and not the 3v needed to get full capacity. My Nexus one shuts off around 3.5v so there is around 25% of the actual rated battery capacity left. (remember what I said about Li-ion batteries liking to be between 50-80%, this left over capacity means that running the battery dead repeatedly is less harmful than if you drained the battery to a true 0% state)
There is also a voltage drop on a battery when under load. So if you are putting a heavy load on the device (like a 3D rendered game heavy gps use) then the battery voltage may drop to below the device’s min voltage. This means that if the phone shuts down during this time, you could probably turn it back on and get a few hours of standby or a few more minutes of light use. This could be another cause for people seeing shut downs when the battery gets around 10%.
The amount of power in a battery is high, especially in Li-ion batteries with their high energy densities. Over charging a Li-ion battery can cause an explosion, literally, that little battery in your phone could remove some fingers. Over discharging is bad as well, as it can start a fire; though like I mentioned above, the cut off voltage is above the 0% state, so that is unlikely here.
Ive proposed this before and got a bit shouted down, but thumbs up if anyone comes up with anything
As i see it, its not a problem with the battery. Its a problem with the battery meter. Since following a regime of deleting my batterystats.bin file, i dont see that issue. Its the same on my g1 as it is on my n1.
This is what i do... when i charge my phone, i charge it until 100%. When it reaches that 100%, i use either use the terminal or root explorer to delete the batterystats.bin file. After which i immediately power off the phone. Now, when its powered off(and still attached to the usb charger) the light should be green. But usually its not! Sometimes it charges up to a full hour longer before it turns green! When it turns green, power the phone back up and enjoy tue extra kick of battery life. Its not actually gaining battery life, its just resetting tue battery meter in the phone. This could only be done with a rooted phone. Oh, i think that this whole innaccurate battery meter thing is a problem with android in general. The meter becomes innaccurate with time. Sometimes extremely innaccurate.
Using the terminal...
su(press enter)
rm /data/system/batterystats.bin(press enter)
Then power off
Wow. Lotsa pewpewz here. Haha.
Again, after all the discussions, seeing that most of us agree the N1 keeps "stock" of how the battery chargers, is there a way for us to check or see how the battery is being calibrated, etc?
Not so much an app to modify the calibration, cuz that'll just be too dangerous, but something more like a tool to monitor it, so we know if it's calibrated right or wrong.
Deleting the batterystats.bin file isnt an app. Its either a script you run to delete it or physically deleting it. And its not dangerous. Ive done it well over a thousand times with my g1 and n1 combined. If you wanted to find out how the calibration work, i guess you could make a copy of your batterstats.bin and read it
I've got this problem with my tab (quick battery drainage). Symptoms would be your 100% charged tab would go down to 0% in unusual shorter time ( like 2-4 hours). You put it on charger and tab would be charged back to 100% again in substantial short time like 2-3 hours instead of 6-7 hours.
Well, after looking at this issue I think I have come up with solution.
At least, my tab looks like it's back on track... though, to say for sure I would need another couple days of testing.
The problem is not runaway wild application on a background but battery control circuit. This chip reports to OS much smaller battery capacity as it is for some reason. I will not go into details but here is what you need to try:
Flash stock kernel (may be custom kernel is not the reason for bad chip calibration and I'm 90% positive but just to be on safe side). You don't need to do factory wipe in OEM recovery for our purpose.
You also don't need to wipe batterystats.bin or use "Battery Calibration" apps from market (which does exactly the same wipe just in more end user friendly way). This wipe serves no other purpose then refreshing your usage statistics.
You also don't need to drain your battery all way down... nice, this way you don't have to wait for too long.
Well, here we go:
charge tab somewhere in between 80 and 100%.
edit: remove charger
shutdown tab (not put in hibernate/sleep) for 1 hour.
edit: turn tab on and run it for 30-40 min. or whatever it takes to drop charge to 40-50%.
shutdown tab again for 5 hours (overnight).
turn tab again and check... you should be fine now, charge it again 100% and use as usual.
That should do correct chip calibration.
PS: the reason why this chip calibration went bad at the first still remains open.
EDIT: just want to give a shortcut for those who does not feel like reading through the thread.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16771651&postcount=41
Edit: here is calibration procedure which was modified down this thread ...
1. in CWM/recovery let it sit till battery in terminal will show less then 3700. The less you can get it the better. 3400 is probably absolute minimum.
2. shut down tab and let it sit for 1 hour.
3. plug it to charger and charge it for 5 hours.
4. disconnected charger and let it sit for 1 hour.
5. boot up your tab and test it, it your battery still not calibrated you can flash back your backup and repeat calibration procedure.
Edit: if you physically disconnect battery (you have to disassemble tablet) and keep it for couple min. that would trigger FG chip to start with default SOC curve.
Any follow up? Did this fix work for you since yesterday or anyone else?
yup, this is it...
This is how properly calibrate sg tab's batteries. There are some variations to the process but essentially battery will be calibrated in two measurements which stand apart by minimum 40% when battery is at rest on time intervals 1 and 5 hours.
No need to do factory reset, wipe batterystats, use battery calibrator apps from market or dance around with rain stick... all this will give same result as woodoo magic... though if by some reason battery calibration conditions are met then one may claim a miracle.
*sigh of relief* looks like this worked. More people that have this issue should now about this. Thank you for the fix.
Sent from my DROID2 using XDA App
Is this the same as the Sleep on Death (SOD) syndrome? that while charging it dies overnight and then you have to long press the power button and/or charge it to get it back?
Worked for me so far all good thanks
Sent from my GT-P7510 using XDA Premium App
Thanks will try this after flashing many custom roms I've been suffering from fast drainage which is not normal from when I had it on stock.
hyann said:
Is this the same as the Sleep on Death (SOD) syndrome? that while charging it dies overnight and then you have to long press the power button and/or charge it to get it back?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How long your tab usually works on one charge? if 8 and more hours - then no, I would think that there is a bug in Android charger control.
Vlad_z said:
yup, this is it...
This is how properly calibrate sg tab's batteries. There are some variations to the process but essentially battery will be calibrated in two measurements which stand apart by minimum 40% when battery is at rest on time intervals 1 and 5 hours.
No need to do factory reset, wipe batterystats, use battery calibrator apps from market or dance around with rain stick... all this will give same result as woodoo magic... though if by some reason battery calibration conditions are met then one may claim a miracle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May I ask what do you mean by rest time intervals of 1 and 5 hours?
Does it mean that the calibration will only take place when the tab is off for 1 hour, then switch on and used till battery depleted by a further 40% minimum and the switch off for another 5 hour. Correct?
Also , is this 40% refer to value before or after calibration? I asked this because when I restart my tab the value changed (ex: 36% before restart to 53% after restart)
wlighter said:
May I ask what do you mean by rest time intervals of 1 and 5 hours?
Does it mean that the calibration will only take place when the tab is off for 1 hour, then switch on and used till battery depleted by a further 40% minimum and the switch off for another 5 hour. Correct?
Also , is this 40% refer to value before or after calibration? I asked this because when I restart my tab the value changed (ex: 36% before restart to 53% after restart)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that's correct.
Fuel gauge chip will take 1 measurement of open circuit voltage and internal resistance only when battery is at rest (no charge/discharge) for at least 40min. - so I say 1 hour just to be sure...
Consecutive measurements, from which gauge chip can derive capacity of the battery have to be at least 40% and 5 hours apart.
Technically speaking, that 40% difference can be in either directions. Say you have 40% as of now, leave it in rest for 1 hour, then charge it to 100% and leave it at rest for 5 hours and you will have same result.
Condition "at rest" means voltage change less then 4mV (or mkV) per sec. - I don't remember.
When tablet is in sleep some background processes may awake tablet briefly and reset the 1 hour counter - so to make it work for sure, simply do shutdown.
if you want additional reading on my findings then look here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16615800&postcount=517
I tried this method...
1.Charged tab t0 80%, then shut down (removed charger) for 1 hour.
2.Turned on tab and played games for about 45min till battery was 49%.
3.Turned off tab and let sleep for 5 hours (charger still removed).
4.Turned tab back on and battery reads 79%, used for about 20min and battery reads 68%... Seems battery drain is still happening?
Right now i'm charging the tablet back upto 100% then perhaps try this method again... Did I do something wrong?
jzen said:
I tried this method...
1.Charged tab t0 80%, then shut down (removed charger) for 1 hour.
2.Turned on tab and played games for about 45min till battery was 49%.
3.Turned off tab and let sleep for 5 hours (charger still removed).
4.Turned tab back on and battery reads 79%, used for about 20min and battery reads 68%... Seems battery drain is still happening?
Right now i'm charging the tablet back upto 100% then perhaps try this method again... Did I do something wrong?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same problem im facing. This is why im wondering is the 40% value of before or after calibration. Because although it might drop 40% before calibration is done, the real drop value might be less then that. Which means to the chip it might just see a drop of example 20% of real drop and hence it didn't perform the calibration because conditions of 40% is nt met.
I did forget to flash back to the stock kernel (using pershoot's).
I just flashed to doc's slim 6.5 which has a modified stock kernel (couldnt find just the stock kernel and my internet is too slow to download the entire stock rom.). Going to try this method again but starting at 40%
1.Battery at 40%, shutdown tablet for 1 hour.
2.Charge tablet to 100% (while shutdown)
3.Leave tablet shutdown for 5 hours
4.Pray to droid gods, find my rain stick and begin dark resurrection ritual while watching true blood.
My only question now is... Should I turn the tablet back on after the 1 hour shutdown? Or should I leave it shutdown and just plug in charger till its 100% charged, then let it stay shutdown for 5 hours?
This is what worked for me:
1. Charged tab to 100% removed from charger.
2. Power down for 1 hour.
3. Power on (tab at 96%)
4. Drain to 46%
5. Power off for 5 hours
When I powered the tab back on after the 5 hours, i used it for a while and rebooted and the battery reading stayed the same which it wasn't doing before the calibration. It has been draining and charging at a normal pace since then and has remained the same after reboots and ROM flashes since the calibration.
FillTheVoid said:
This is what worked for me:
1. Charged tab to 100% removed from charger.
2. Power down for 1 hour.
3. Power on (tab at 96%)
4. Drain to 46%
5. Power off for 5 hours
When I powered the tab back on after the 5 hours, i used it for a while and rebooted and the battery reading stayed the same which it wasn't doing before the calibration. It has been draining and charging at a normal pace since then and has remained the same after reboots and ROM flashes since the calibration.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to go ahead and try this method right now! But for me... sometimes my battery will not charge unless the unit is shutdown (ever since battery issues started.). I hope this time it will charge while its on.
Also the instructions say to flash the stock kernel before trying this method... Did you do this? And were you able to flash back to pershoot's without issue?
*Update:
It doesn't look like its charging, (system on). Should I just shutdown and charge it to 100%? Then continue with said method? Anyone know if this method will work while tablet is shutdown through the entire process?
jzen said:
I'm going to go ahead and try this method right now! But for me... sometimes my battery will not charge unless the unit is shutdown (ever since battery issues started.). I hope this time it will charge while its on.
Also the instructions say to flash the stock kernel before trying this method... Did you do this? And were you able to flash back to pershoot's without issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My tab was charging while on, sometimes it wouldn't show it till after a reboot. I did mine from stock 3.1. (A backup I made before I took the TW OTA) I have not re-flashed pershoot's kernel and probably wont till the bug is worked out. I did however flash the deodexed stock TW and flashed a theme and have had no issues.
Edit: if its not chargin while on, i would charge it all the way while off then turn it on so it can read the battery then start the 1 hour power down.
Correction guys...
I was sure that our p7510 model was using TI bq20z75 fuel gauge chip but with new information looks like it's Maxim 17042 chip... It's embarrassing but I have to stay corrected. TI chip would calibrate itself in procedure outlined above as for Maxim - I don't know yet. I'm looking at it.
These are good and bad news. Good one - with this new fact, it's very possible that the reason of chip's SOC counter corruption is in software. Driver for Maxim is pretty messy and complex (because it's messy). In contrast driver for TI is simple and straight forward (because TI chip is smart). Software can be fixed but problem in hardware design not so easy.
Well, I will report back when I find something.
So, will FillTheVoid 's method work with my GT-p7510? :x
Vlad_z said:
Correction guys...
I was sure that our p7510 model was using TI bq20z75 fuel gauge chip but with new information looks like it's Maxim 17042 chip... It's embarrassing but I have to stay corrected. TI chip would calibrate itself in procedure outlined above as for Maxim - I don't know yet. I'm looking at it.
These are good and bad news. Good one - with this new fact, it's very possible that the reason of chip's SOC counter corruption is in software. Driver for Maxim is pretty messy and complex (because it's messy). In contrast driver for TI is simple and straight forward (because TI chip is smart). Software can be fixed but problem in hardware design not so easy.
Well, I will report back when I find something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A lot of this is way over my head, but my battery calibration seems to be accurate, although I can't be absolutely sure because I have no stats from the previous calibration to compare it to. I do know for sure that after this process the bug of it draining then after reboot going back to what it should be is gone.
so i guess we need to flash back the stock ROM w/o TW for this procedure to work? I was trying the same steps with StarBurst + pershoot kernel it seem that it doesn't work. Anyone manage to calibrate with pershoot kernel?
I'm having this problem with my i777.
Sometimes when I reboot the phone the battery charge drops enormously, like 30% or so. For example, I will be doing things with the phone, the charge will be at something like 60% then reboot and right after reboot it says charge is 30% which doesn't make much sense.
this happens with the stock battery but the effects seems to be more pronouced with some batteries I bought on ebay.
Anyone has any idea what's going on?
what rom are you running on?
bartolo5 said:
I'm having this problem with my i777.
Sometimes when I reboot the phone the battery charge drops enormously, like 30% or so. For example, I will be doing things with the phone, the charge will be at something like 60% then reboot and right after reboot it says charge is 30% which doesn't make much sense.
this happens with the stock battery but the effects seems to be more pronouced with some batteries I bought on ebay.
Anyone has any idea what's going on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normal behavior of our fuel gauge hardware - high load (boot process) immediately after a reset confuses it and makes it report low. Effect is much more pronounced at lower states of charge.
pham818 said:
what rom are you running on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rooted stock 2.3.4
build number: GINGERBREAD.UCKH7
Entropy512 said:
Normal behavior of our fuel gauge hardware - high load (boot process) immediately after a reset confuses it and makes it report low. Effect is much more pronounced at lower states of charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's exactly right. Tends to happen more on lower states of charge.
Does this mean that the charge indicator will go up after the reboot? Or maybe it will take longer to drop and the effective battery life will be the same.
Yes when this happens to me my bettery either dies extremely slow or my percent just goes up..
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using XDA App
Smacdallas said:
Yes when this happens to me my bettery either dies extremely slow or my percent just goes up..
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see this too. I will be at ~40%, reboot and see 10%. Come back after a while to 12%, and it stays on 12% with like an hours worth of heavy use before going lower. If I look at the battery usage, it trends down, then drops, but stays level, then about when the trend would have been it starts dropping again.
I thought I just needed to calibrate the battery, as I just flashed a new ROM. But, it keeps doing this after a week, and several charge cycles.
Guess I'm relieved to see this weird behavior is not indicative of a problem.
Sent from my Galaxy S II (i777)
bartolo5 said:
That's exactly right. Tends to happen more on lower states of charge.
Does this mean that the charge indicator will go up after the reboot? Or maybe it will take longer to drop and the effective battery life will be the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct - because the gauge thinks the battery is lower than it actually is when this happens.
Attached a screenshot of the battery use with the big drop in effect.
I particularly think this is a bug and Samsung should fix this behavior.
It can't be changed without hardware alterations.
As with anything in engineering, there are tradeoffs. The positive aspect of this fuel gauge design is that it does not require ANY calibration. No wiping battery stats, no "always flash firmware at 100%" - none of that.
The negative is that in a few corner cases, it gets thrown off temporarily. This is basically the only known one.
Ive noticed this as well with both Stock and ICScreweD. I just try to reboot as least as possible.
greystealth said:
Ive noticed this as well with both Stock and ICScreweD. I just try to reboot as least as possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you reboot at higher states of charge, OR reboot when on external power, you should not see this issue.
I just had this same problem lol. I was at 42% and when I rebooted my phone it dropped to 23%....This was a few hours after the OTA update to 2.3.6.
I had the same problem also.
-Battery would not charge to 100% ( it would charge between 97% -98%)
-Battery would drop 20% or 30% percent (when reboot).
I tried to recharge many times and cycles the battey but nothing would work.
I tried changing kernal, modem and roms . Nothing would work.
I actually thought i messed my phone up.
So i tried something that work for me.
1) i would let the battery drain till it was completely dead!
2) I would take battery out for 5 minutes.
3) put battery in and charge with phone OFF till it reaches 100%.
4) unplug charger from phone and take battery out and wait 5 minutes.
5) put battery back in and plug charger up and wait till phone marks 100% again ( This time the wait was longer to get to 100%).
6) i repeated step 5 untill finally the phone would mark 100% faster
7) unplug phone and then wait to see the battery status ( if your phone mark 99%) plug charger to phone and let it charge till it reaches 100% again. once it reach 100% reboot and repeat step 7 untill you reboot and it would show 100%.
not sure if this might work for anyone else but it did work for me. battery would charge to 100% and i don't have my phone drop 20-30 percent after reboot.
If it drops 20-30% on a reboot when the battery is near full, you may have a defective battery.
I've only seen major drops on reboot when the battery is low to begin with, never when at higher states of charge.
Doing a full discharge on Li-ion batteries puts a huge stress on it and greatly decreases the life of the battery. To get the longest life out of a battery, you want to generally stay in the medium range of charge (Don't over charge it, and don't discharge it too much). Cars like the Chevy Volt employ these techniques to encourage a longer battery life, however with phones, you get users that think discharging the battery all the way solves problems. If you want to see the true battery life that the fuel gauge averages from, press *#0228# in your dialer and check the battery voltage. Full is around 4.1v and discharged I believe is around 3.5v or so. (maybe 3.3? not sure)
3) put battery in and charge with phone OFF till it reaches 100%. <-- is probably what fixed it, and why I switch batteries instead of charging on my phone because the charger is able to control the current and voltage better than with a slight load on it (with phone on)
I'm sure that that user cut off at least 5% of his overall battery life with overcharging it like that though...
Same issues here pending the ROM I'm using.
4.2 volts is the upper limit for li-ion - and actually, it hits that at around 95% charge.
The method for charging Li-Ion:
Charge with a current limit initially - on our devices this is 650 mA.
Once you hit 4.2 volts, do NOT go above this - maintain voltage at 4.2 volts or lower regardless of current
Once current drops to around C/10 (on our devices, this is about 160 mA), shut off charging completely.
The phone's charge controller does this all automatically for you.
There's usually a timer/averaging filters in the final stages of charge termination - which is why "bump charging" can push a little extra into the battery - but this will lead to degradation in battery total capacity.
As somewhat of an extra trivia on Li-ion batteries, Motorola has apparently managed to get batteries that have nominal voltage at 3.8v and max charged voltage is around 4.3v as opposed to 4.2v.
Hunt3r.j2 said:
As somewhat of an extra trivia on Li-ion batteries, Motorola has apparently managed to get batteries that have nominal voltage at 3.8v and max charged voltage is around 4.3v as opposed to 4.2v.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is it Li-ion tech though?
Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk
First, a few things:
I'm well aware there are several other threads about this already, so before you go -"Arrhh!... not another one!". Read this: We need a more complete guide with more facts about what's going on, and details on how to recover from it.
Questions and new threads that involves bricking, red led of death, battery failures and so on, are very common. I felt it's time for this thread to spring to life.
If you have additional information, tips and/or corrections, please do post.
I'll complete/edit this post accordingly.
With that out of the system, let's go on.
The red LED blinking rapidly three times, from here on called FRLoD (Flasing Red LED of "Death")
The X10 have now reached an age, where battery failures, and strange behaviour as a result, are fairly common. Specially if one got the device early on. So if you're reading this hoping to get your device back into life, the whole thing might be a result of just that: Battery is failing due to wear and/or age.
Questions:
What's does the FRLoD mean?
Simple answer: The battery has "run out of juice".
It's so empty, the device cannot startup at all. Not even to show the offline charging screen. Any attempts to restart the device will only be followed by the FRLoD again.
Sometimes, one can let the device rest for a while, and restart can be achieved, but the luck soon runs out as the device simply shuts off during the startup procedure, and back into FRLoD mode.
If it can't show the offline charging screen, does it mean the device can't charge?
No. It will charge, it just can't show you that.
In fact, if you have the charger connected, it does receive a charge, but it will take some time before the battery has charged to a level where it's safe to show the offline charging screen again.
So what you might want to try, is to let the device charge blindly for a while.
It will take from a few minutes to a few hours, before the device kicks back to life and shows the charging screen. How long it takes depends how badly the battery where drained.
Yes it's quite possible to drain the battery beyond the "empty level".
I had my charger/USB connected all the time while in recovery/flash mode, shouldn't that keep the device alive even if the battery fails?
No.
When the device is in flash/recovery mode, it won't charge at all, even if connected to a power source. It will slowly deplete/discharge the battery, and it will run out of juice if one sits for too long in either mode. So when the battery drains/fails, the flash or recovery mode will fail with it.
This is why it's so important that the battery is fully charged before one attempts recovery/flashing the device.
Why it is designed like this, is beyond my knowledge. I belive it's the same with most, if not all, Android devices.
It seems the battery won't charge "blindly" at all. What can I do?
Charge the battery externally, with a proper Lithium Polymer Charger. One can even use an universal 3.6 volt Lithium Ion charger, as the charging method of either is basically the same.
Be careful: Never ever leave a lithium polymer battery charging externally unattendend. It can be dangerous. Keep an eye on the temperature. It should never exceed 50 degrees Celcius / 122 degrees Farenheit. If it does, disconnect immediately.
If charging externally is out of the question, you need to replace the battery with a fully/partially charged one.
There is also a rather "ugly" trick one can attempt:
Only perform this as a last resort. It's very dangerous, but might be worth it if everything else fails, including getting a new battery.
Pull out and shortly charge the lithium Polymer battery with an ordinary 9 volt battery.
Connect the positive terminal to the other positive terminal, and the negative terminal to the other negative terminal. Use a short pair of wires for this. Only charge it for a few seconds at a time, and never let the batteries temperature go beyond 50 degrees Celcius / 122 degrees Farenheit. (slightly warmer than your hand)
This will briefly kickstart the battery to life, so one can start charging it normally in the device.
I can't make the battery last long enough for this flash to succeed. Now what?
Simple: Get a new battery.
A fresh battery should be able to keep the flash/recovery mode active for several hours / a whole day.
What are the signs of a failing battery?
Here's a list:
Symptom: Device suddenly shuts of when used, even when battery had several percent left.
Reason: Battery can't take high load very well. the voltage dipped so quickly, the battery indicator didn't have time to update.
Symptom: The device only lasts for a few hours/minutes, before it needs charging again.
Reason: Old age. The battery has lost so much capacity, it's running on the last breath.
Symptom: Charging is incredibly fast.
Reason: Battery has, due to old age, lost too much capacity. Low capacity = Reaches full cell voltage quickly.
Symptom: Device shuts off, and it need resting before it can restart again.
Reason: Again. Old age makes the battery unable to keep the voltage at a good level. Resting lets the battery slowly build up the voltage level. Internal resistance is the "bad guy" here.
Symptom: Battery gets warm, even hot, while charging.
Reason: The battery is about to run out of charging cycles, and the charge is lost in form of heat.
Most, or all, of these symptoms are followed by the FRLoD, either temporary or permanently, depending on how bad the battery condition is.
I've charged/replaced the battery, and are having trouble with starting up. Earlier flash failed. Now what?
Don't worry. It's pretty darn hard to truly brick this device. Even if the screen remains black, there's still hope.
Once that the battery issue has been dealt with, you can move on:
Download the latest Flashtool and the proper global firmware (FTF-file) for your device from here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=920746&highlight=flashtool
1: Extract/Install the Flashtool to a folder of your liking.
2: Copy the ftf-file to the "firmware" folder in the Flashtool folder you just created above.
3: Start Flashtool. Click the Bolt icon (flash). A Window appear. There, choose "flashmode". Cllick OK.
4: A new window appears. In the list on the left, choose the Generic firmware you downloaded and copied into the "firmware" folder. Should have a similar name as the file itself. (Or manually open the ftf-file from the "..." icon on the top right.)
5: Hit "OK. Follow the instructions you get on the screen:
1 - Unplug the device.
2 - Power off the device. (Unplug and replug the battery to be sure it really off, and not stuck in black screen)
3 - Press the "back" putton, and hold it down while performing the next task.
4 - Plug the device into the computers USB.Forced flashing should now start.
Once done, the device should be back in it's original state, and you can now start over. Rooting, boot loader unlocking, etc...
Good luck.
Greetings. The past month I've been getting wrong battery readings from my redmi 5(rosy, miui global 11.0.2 stable, android 8.1.0). It no longer charges to 100%, regardless if it's turned on or off, unless I unplug and replug the charger in which case it jumps immediately to 100%. There are massive percentage drops when idling( 20% drop in less than an hour), and the battery will drop all the way to 2% within 24hours. The battery life itself is no issue. I get consistently about 6-7 hours of screentime, and about 2 hours of that screentime the battery is stuck at 2%. I use the voltage readings from gsam monitor to know when the phone needs to charge, (3300mah battery, 4.3 max charge,3.45V minimum).
Attempting to repair the problem I've tried the following:
1) Allowed the phone to completely drain and shut down, left it to charge. No good. Stopped at 88%. I've attempted this multiple times to no effect.
2)Took the battery off the board and replugged it.
3) Bought a new battery altogether. Even replaced the usb board and the flex cable just to be sure.
4)Swapped the charger with one from a Redmi Note 5.
5) Rooted the phone, installed gsam battery monitor. Although I discovered various issues,the battery consumption is still negligible. Assuming I can trust the readings, 70% of battery life goes to the screen. 0ne thing worth noting however is the Android system process is constantly using the significant motion detector. I traced it back it the Google play services, but it doesn't allow me ,even with root access to turn off its use of sensors.
6) Deleted the batterystats.bin file from the system folder.
7) Enabled the battery saving feature and disabled synchronization.
8) Reset smartphone to factory settings.
9) Wiped data and cache from recovery.
10)Flashed a Pixel Experience custom rom.
11)Installed accubattery. It calculated a smaller battery capacity. However all the metrics and statistics were thrown out of whack as soon as the battery started freefalling from 40% to 2%(in idle).
12)Charged the phone from recovery mode(Orangefox). Still stuck at 87-88%.
The battery doesn't drain when the phone is turned off, but it still won't charge to 100% unless I replug the charger.
Also I forgot to mention but the phone is strictly used in airplane mode as secondary device so you can rule out cell standby drain from poor signal reception.
I'm thinking of flashing back the original rom but what are the odds of this being a rom related issue?
I'm currently testing it's full idle drain time. I won't use the device for at least 24 hours or wait until it's discharged completely.
Has anyone else encountered a similar issue? Thank you for your time.