My phone was recently stolen, and a friend gave me her Note 20 ultra and said I could just have it if I could get it to work. First off, the back was cracked in several spots but the screen is pristine.
I plug it in and nothing, no sound that it connected, nothing visual on screen. I leave it plugged in for 1/2 hr still nothing. I connect to my laptop and nothing. So I decided to take off the back and see if anything is obviously out of place due to damage done to back panel. After taking screws out and starting to disassemble I notice the power button is not connected. So I look up how to reconnect by watching some teardowns and I notice ummm the inside of my phone doesn't look the same as the ones in the teardown videos. So I search different Samsung white phones with stylus and I don't see anything similar. Since I can't turn on I couldn't verify it actually is a Note 20 ultra. It's not built like any of the videos, so now I'm like well sh*t I just ordered a replacement back panel and stylus from Amazon....
Anyhoo, my question is two fold.
1. Is this a Note 20 ultra? (I'm in Canada but couldn't find a specific video for that)
2. How do I reconnect the power button ?
Please help if you can I cannot continue with my old A02 the lag is driving me batty!
I've added a pic of a note 20 ultra from google as reference and the pic of mine is exactly how it looked when I removed the backing.
Wow
So much emptiness
Well, I've come to the conclusion this is clearly a fake Samsung note..
My first clue should've been the absence of the Samsung logo on the battery. The back panel from Amazon came in and thankfully I have a new galaxy S22 (the real Mccoy) but now I'm determined to fix this faker anyhow. 1. Because i spent the money on the back panel. And 2. I'm stubborn like that.
Does anyone have experience repairing flex cables? I saw a few vids involving soldering but I'm not that confident in my soldering skills..
I have those Bondic kits with the ultra violet light that hardens the glue type substance. It's that an option? The cable ripped right where it goes into place.
Damn it's god awful badly made. Sorry.
The chipsets are likely from an older generation as well. I would write it off.
If you learn to solder on those pads you will likely lift the solder pads. You should have a fine tip temperature controlled iron, fine gauge rosin core 63/37 solder and lots of practice. Soldering is easy once you learn some principles, techniques and get a feel for it. Many never fully master it though.
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I've had my Transformer Prime for a few months now and had slight workarounds for it, but it's gotten to a point where I can't ignore it anymore, as it seems to be getting worse.
Basically, in certain apps, and also occasionally on the home screen and app drawer screen, the top 1/3 of the screen doesn't respond to touch at all. This can be a huge problem since a lot of buttons are located up there, and the only way I'm able to get to them is if I use the keyboard.
I have done a few factory resets and a cold boot, and the problem still comes up. I've also noticed some light bleeding in the same area, so I don't know if that adds anything.
I really don't want to RMA this, as I've read about horror stories of people's primes being damaged or taking forever to be fixed, so is there any alternate way of fixing it? Or is it best to take the plunge and RMA it.
Thanks in advance!
RMA.
RMA I think is your only option. Or you can try to take it back to the retailer and see if they will replace it. I've learned over the years that Best Buy accidental damage coverage is worth it... Brick your device... unbrick it by accidentally dropping it out the car window. Take it to Best Buy and they give you a new one. lol
If you want to open your tablet yourself and not risk an RMA chances are the cable that connects the digitizer to the rest of the tablet is loose... its not a very secure connection.
If you take like a plastic toothpick or something of the like under the two slots beside the dock connecter you can slide them sideways.
Then take a guitar pick or plastic pry tool and use it to seperate the screen from the back. There are lots of videos on youtube how to do this safely.
Once you have the prime in two parts, butterfly it open and you will notice two ribbon cables that attach the screen to the back of the prime. One of these is for the display, one is for the digitizer. Make sure both are properly attached. Be careful with them as they are delicate and do not take bending well, however you have to firmly press them into their slots.
Check out the "opened my prime" thread for pictures and more info how to open your prime. If you dont have physical damage im pretty sure this is the cause as i had the same problem after opening my prime, however fixed it by making sure the cables were connected properly.
Hey all -
My wife, deep in the midst of pregnancy-brain, washed her beloved Fireball a couple weeks ago. Long story short, she tried to power it up too soon, and now the LCD backlight is dead.
Everything else seems to function fine, so I decided to see if there was something obvious that could be fixed. Sure enough, at one of the connections between screen and mainboard, there looked to be some small electrical POOF type scarring. One of the traces on the ribbon cable is missing a chunk of conductive material right next to the connection, so it would seem replacing the whole assembly (digitizer/LCD) should restore function. Except - right next to that spot on the mainboard is what looks like it might be a diode that might have seen better days. I'm not sure, and I haven't been able to find any closeups of the inside of the phone to verify what it's supposed to look like.
So what I'm wondering is if anyone here can take a peek at these pics, note the potential damaged area, and tell me if that little bit of badness means I have to toss the phone.
Thanks!
About six months ago, I decided (foolishly) to try my S5's water resistance by taking it into the pool and taking some underwater pics and videos of my kids. They turned out great. My phone, however, was not happy. I didn't notice it until about 15 minutes after I took it out of the water. I turned it off, removed the battery, let it dry out for a few days, etc.
After that, it seemed to work again, with a few small problems. The first was that it started shutting down all my apps because it thought it was overheating. I installed an app that monitored the temp, and the numbers it was reporting were obviously wrong (way too high). The second problem is that it would no longer charge. It would either warn me that the battery was too hot, or too cold, to charge.
After some googling, it sounded like the problem might be the USB charging port daughterboard that was the problem. I took a look at the inside, and it did look like that was the only part that got wet. So I bought a new daughterboard and replaced it. I ended up destroying my screen in the process, and only just now was able to afford a new one, hence the six-month lag time.
So I finally have my phone back with a new daughterboard and new screen..... and I'm still seeing the temperature issues
Is there any way in the software to install a "hack" or anything to tell it to ignore those warnings, so that I can actually charge my battery and stop the OS from shutting down all my apps constantly? Could the problem be somewhere else besides the daughterboard? I'm really hoping that my phone isn't just dead, is all
If the back cover and/or usb cover were not securely in place when you took the device underwater, then something other than the usb port is most certainly the problem. That, or you had the phone under water for too long. The S5 is water-resistant, not water-proof. I think IP67 rating is less than 3 meters for less than 30 minutes exposure, or something. When you had it apart, did you look at the board? If you didn't, I think you can remove most of the board pieces from the back. Them them out, inspect them for oxidation, and give them a cleaning with a gentle toothbrush and rubbing alcohol. If you put it back together and you still get problems, there's nothing else you can do to fix it. It might be possible to make the hack you want, but I'm not aware of anyone having made one. Maybe you'd have to find someone who could do it for you, or learn yourself.
I also exposed my phone to water, but the microphone went out. That part is not shielded against water for obvious reasons. I guess Samsung expected the mic to handle more than just a little exposure. But mine failed. So I just warrantied it. None of my water stickers were set off. For you, I'd recommend just getting a new phone if you're with T-Mobile. $0 down on something newer. If you really love the S5, maybe just pay the insurance deductible.
I used to actually fix phones for a living, but I never do just glass on Galaxy phones bc IMO it's just not worth doing. So I would've replaced my own usb port/mic if it didn't require removing the glass.
I wouldn't recommend trying a free warranty even if your water sensors are white, because they'll probably be able to tell the screen was replaced... if they check. Will they? I dunno.
I'd sell you my new warranty but you've already invested a lot in to an aging phone, so I think it's better to cut your losses. I think I have around 300-400 left on it. It'll be unlocked and come with a case and glass screen protector, but it's still a lot on top of everything else.
LucentPhoenix said:
It sounded like the problem might be the USB charging port daughterboard that was the problem. I took a look at the inside, and it did look like that was the only part that got wet.
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Click to collapse
I know for a fact that in the S4 the daughterboard with the USB also has this battery temperature sensor in it because this was a repair I performed many times. Just change the board and the phone will charge and function correctly again.
I, however, have NO idea if it's the same on the S5. And apparently not, judging by what you experienced. I'm sorry you had to go through that and I know how much you had to spend on a screen. That sucks.
Good Luck!
Hello Good People,
Can someone please share some insight here. My issue is that every now and than my phone acts as if it is being controlled remotely. Home screens progress to the next screen, apps will open and close, widgets resize themselves or close, the notification pull down menu is goes up and down.
When this happens it all happens back to back within seconds and I cannot stop it. All I can do is do a hard reboot.
Any solution or tips as to what is going on? I have tried different ROMS and yet it has been known to happen again.
T.I.A.
Mine does it while charging and using the phone. Perhaps because of the lack of proper ground a charge builds up and starts "ghost click".
Its the expected reaction because the touch panel is a "capacitive" type. This model has support for a pen with stock rom. So there might be that the sensitive threshold is set too high to what is optimal when charging?
You can change this setting by editing a file. (that's for another day).
For me it can be minimized for a while by turning off the screen and swiping the whole palm over the screen and downwards. Like you give the charge to go somewhere with the largest possible surface area.
If I remember this right I can recall that SONY had a picture showing how the phone was designed.
It was made part of nylon, glassfiber and magnesium...
Nylon and copper is an excellent material that gain negative charge, aluminum and glass that can gain positive charge.
Magnesium mold is an alloy with part aluminium and other neat stuff.
ah found it:
http://blogs.sonymobile.com/2013/09...rlds-slimmest-full-hd-smartphone-infographic/
What I am saying is that the materials are there to create ghost clicks. Its not a hardware failure. I think it is only the interaction of the material the designers desided to use for this device.
SÜPERUSER said:
Mine does it while charging and using the phone. Perhaps because of the lack of proper ground a charge builds up and starts "ghost click".
Its the expected reaction because the touch panel is a "capacitive" type. This model has support for a pen with stock rom. So there might be that the sensitive threshold is set too high to what is optimal when charging?
You can change this setting by editing a file. (that's for another day).
For me it can be minimized for a while by turning off the screen and swiping the whole palm over the screen and downwards. Like you give the charge to go somewhere with the largest possible surface area.
If I remember this right I can recall that SONY had a picture showing how the phone was designed.
It was made part of nylon, glassfiber and magnesium...
Nylon and copper is an excellent material that gain negative charge, aluminum and glass that can gain positive charge.
Magnesium mold is an alloy with part aluminium and other neat stuff.
ah found it:
http://blogs.sonymobile.com/2013/09...rlds-slimmest-full-hd-smartphone-infographic/
What I am saying is that the materials are there to create ghost clicks. Its not a hardware failure. I think it is only the interaction of the material the designers desided to use for this device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would agree with you, I remember my phone used to have ghost touches with certain usb cables. Try a different cable if it is occurring while it is charging.
If not, do you have a screen guard on?
mofoahh said:
I would agree with you, I remember my phone used to have ghost touches with certain usb cables. Try a different cable if it is occurring while it is charging.
If not, do you have a screen guard on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any cable does the same thing. Received three SONY EC450 cables in the mail the other day.
The charger used today is a a bulk order of Samsung eta-p10x because of the removable plug so that I can put any longer C7 cable for long distance from the outlet. I do have a front+back glass panel.
It can be related to ghostclicks because I dropped the phone strait on the asphalt a month back. Luckely with a battery case taking the hit. But the glass is shattered. Two days after I replaced the glass..............
However ghost clicks have occured to and from during the three years time I have had this device. When charging.
Worth notice is that I have removed the asf sheet.
I am aware that the tempered glass isn't just recycled glass molded thin with a silicone residue on one side. There are metals and other possible conductive and charge holding ingredients mixed in the mass. Not to mention the most common sale argument: "HD clear visibility" what many sellers advertises their product to give you. This also has some fact in the paper...can't remember what they use for that at the moment. If it was a mineral or whatever.
Thank you SUPERUSER and mofoahh for the response.
Yes I do have a screen protector on the device. Weird that most of the time it happens when the usb cable is connected to the computer. I was getting freaked out as I thought someone might have been accessing my device remotely. I will get another charging cable.
Thank you again for the informative and technical insight, much appreciated!
You can check your touchscreen's responsiveness using an app called YAMTT:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rn.yamtt
My phone has ghost or phantom touches all over the place.
PamelaGirl said:
Thank you SUPERUSER and mofoahh for the response.
Yes I do have a screen protector on the device. Weird that most of the time it happens when the usb cable is connected to the computer. I was getting freaked out as I thought someone might have been accessing my device remotely. I will get another charging cable.
Thank you again for the informative and technical insight, much appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are worried that someone is tapping your phone you can monitor the network with wireshark and dump a log every day. And use a keylogger. Or/and run catlog with dump at the end of every day.
Or to do this without any suspension from the hacker, run a man in the middle proxy to your computer. Have all traffic dumped there and you can review what's happening every now and then.
If you find anything suspicious then the first thing to look at when it comes to hacking is DNS servers. Google it.
electrical grounding issues.
change the charger.
tsiros said:
electrical grounding issues.
change the charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In general it is the recommended choice.
Hi all,
I broke my screen and ordered a new one (without frame). Replacing it was easy (after waiting for it for more than a month... thanks COVID-19), except that I was dumb enough to miss it was using a ZIF connector, and forced-push the cable in (shame on me).
It broke some pins, at first I didn't even notice but when looking at some stuff I took a picture off, it clearly appeared some colors were... unusual (pink instead of green ). So I double checked and indeed, pins had been damaged.
Anyway, to my question: do you know by any chance where I could find a screen frame (which comes with the fcc cable the zif connector is soldered on)? I only found frames with the screen attached and of course I don't need another new screen...
I checked ebay, but the ones I found don't look at all like the original.
I'd also be interested by the cable alone, but it would be way harder to put back in place I guess (as it's also holding front sensors).
If someone has a dead Mi Mix 3, it could also be helpful...
Thanks!
EDIT: nevermind, Amaan at Cellspare.com did an awesome job finding the flex cable and adding it to their listing when I asked him for help! Everything's getting better now