Related
I would like an additional charger as supplied in the box: from a wall socket 220v to mini usb. I see many usb charge cables but does anyone know where I can get a wall charger?
I heard usb charging is a lot slower and a usb-pc is not always available to plug into....
Not sure what country you are from...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5841022471&category=67832
It says its for the iPOD but it's got the same 5.5v output required - as with all USB devices.
Just do a search for USB Wall Chargers on the net and you'll get loads.
thanks Looks good. Does anyone know if charging this way actuallu IS faster then charging from pc?
Depends on the power output of a given charger...
USB charging is done at 5 volts and 0.5 amps (more or less - I seem to recall that the wall charger for the Blue Angel delivered about 0.7 amps and a bit below 6v, possibly 5.5).
Differences in speed of charging may be achieved if the supply current is higher (logically, since power = volts * amps) although I would be very surprised if the device did not have current limiting hardware in place, which may reduce or remove any advantage.
This means that it should be possible to charge the device faster (assuming it is not precisely self regulating) with a higher power output wall charger than a Windows managed PC. Most people selling USB wall chargers should specify the volts/amps of the charger and I would be suspicious of the seller if this were not the case! Personally, I'd recommend buying a (good - beware of cheapy!) retractable sync/charge cable and both wall and car power adapters with a USB socket as it allows you the most flexibility from the smallest physical amount of kit.
HTH
I have a usb type in car charger for my psp rated at 5v 2amp, could I use this on my Vario (wizard)?
will the extra 1 amp matter?
My mains plug for the vario is rated at 5v 1 amp.
thanks
In a electronic engineer theoritical point, it does not matter that the charger is able to provide the extra 1 amp. It should work since both has the same voltage. The basic equation is V = IR, which if you have the same voltage and resistance, the current will be adjusted automatically. For example, the wall socket on your house gives you 240V (e.g. UK standard) and able to give you 13A, hence the rating is 240V 13A. However, this same socket is able to act as a power supply for things rangers from the low power consumption (e.g. clock) to power hungry ones (e.g. kettle). These appliances uses the same voltage 240V but they adjust (automatically) the power by having lower current (e.g. clock = 0.1A, kettle 12A).
However, I'm not sure hows the HTC design in terms of safety. The 1amp condition will become a concern IF there is a problem with your phone. Example, if you have a defective battery, the 2amp charger will have the phone exploded in twice the speed as compared with the 1amp charger.
Anyway, 5V 2A = 10W is a low power rating. My comment is, there is a low accepted risk involved, but it should work with your phone. My advise would be, charge your phone with your default charger, sense the phone's temperature and function. THEN, go charge (later when you need charging) your phone with the 2A charger, and make sure that the phone is within the similar condition it has when charging with the default charger. It is just a precaution incase of any 'defects' on your phone. But, in most cases, if your phone works normally with your default charger, it should not have problems on the 2A charger.
Ask if you want to know more electrical stuff
Thanks,
What does the usb on a pc give?
It charges fine on this, I dont really use the wall charger.
As according to
http://www.beyondlogic.org/usbnutshell/usb2.htm
USB allows up to 0.5A of current. So, you are looking at 0.5A current from USB, but the standard charger is 1A.
Ok, thanks for your help, I'll give it a go if its an emergency!
Hi, I am new to this forum and You will probably be hearing a lot from me.Will this inverter work with the Viewsonic G Tablet: Wagan 2107-6 Smart AC 80 USB Inverter. I purchased it to use with another device and was hoping I could use it with the Viewsonic. I am waiting for delivery of the Viewsonic and was hoping I would not have to buy another car charger. Thanks
lartomar2002 said:
Hi, I am new to this forum and You will probably be hearing a lot from me.Will this inverter work with the Viewsonic G Tablet: Wagan 2107-6 Smart AC 80 USB Inverter. I purchased it to use with another device and was hoping I could use it with the Viewsonic. I am waiting for delivery of the Viewsonic and was hoping I would not have to buy another car charger. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like that inverter will up convert from 12V DC to 120V AC and then the power adapter for the GTab will down convert from 120V AC to 12V DC, seems like a lot of wasted energy in the form of heat. You should take a look at the power limits of the inverter. If my electrical training serves me right (22 years ago) 12V x 2A = 24 Watts.
I bought the Vector Mfg VEC009 from Amazon.com for $15.25 shipped. It works, but there is a noticeable buzz if you plan on using the GTab to play music while you leave the charger plugged in, but once the GTab is charged, I was able to drive from Las Vegas to Reno (7 hr trip) playing music and I still had battery life left.
texasbrew said:
Looks like that inverter will up convert from 12V DC to 120V AC and then the power adapter for the GTab will down convert from 120V AC to 12V DC, seems like a lot of wasted energy in the form of heat. You should take a look at the power limits of the inverter. If my electrical training serves me right (22 years ago) 12V x 2A = 24 Watts.
I bought the Vector Mfg VEC009 from Amazon.com for $15.25 shipped. It works, but there is a noticeable buzz if you plan on using the GTab to playing music while you leave the charger plugged in, but once the GTab is charged, I was able to drive from Las Vegas to Reno (7 hr trip) playing music and I still had battery life left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not an electrician either but if I am interpreting you correctly you are saying this is to much power for the GTab? I originally ordered this for a Pandigital Novel which is 5v 2a and the reason I ordered it was because I could not find a car charger with the correct tip. I though since this inverter accepts regular 110v type house plugs I would not have to ever worry about have to search for a charger with correct tip size again. Besides I all ready have this unit. Will it hurt the GTab?
Not enough
lartomar2002 said:
I am not an electrician either but if I am interpreting you correctly you are saying this is to much power for the GTab? I originally ordered this for a Pandigital Novel which is 5v 2a and the reason I ordered it was because I could not find a car charger with the correct tip. I though since this inverter accepts regular 110v type house plugs I would not have to ever worry about have to search for a charger with correct tip size again. Besides I all ready have this unit. Will it hurt the GTab?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your inverter does not output enough power. It may power the gTab for a short time, but texasbrew is correct that the conversion process results in heat being generated & from what I see on amazon, your unit uses passive (no fan) cooling to get rid of the heat. Since you would be trying to draw more power than the inverter is designed to handle (gtab needs 110-120 watts vs 80 watts your inverter is designed to output), it would become hotter than normal and have a harder time disipating the heat generated. The thermal limiter inside would eventually shut it down when the components become too hot or if you draw too much current. In addition, the additional heat could cause the inverter's components for fail quicker.
Depending on if you need to power any other ac devices in your car, you should either buy a more powerful inverter (150 wattt one would do) or consider the dc adapter that texasbrew suggested.
Al
I would only be using it for quick charges not for operating the GTab. My wife thinks I am buying to many gadgets so I am trying to keep peace.
Are you not confusing volts for watts. I'm not an electrician so I do not know.
lartomar2002 said:
I would only be using it for quick charges not for operating the GTab. My wife thinks I am buying to many gadgets so I am trying to keep peace.
Are you not confusing volts for watts. I'm not an electrician so I do not know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
watts = amps x volts
amps = watts/volt
volts =watts/amps
No, not confusing volts with watts (although one affects the other). According to the specs for the model you quoted, your inverter is capable of supplying 80 watts of power @ 110v or .73 amps. The gTab p/s input says 100-240v @ 1A (thats 110 watts...110v x 1 amp) needed to output the 12V @ 2 Amps the p/s outputs (24 watts).
Ofcourse, we are talking about the specs for the gTab power supply & the inverter. What we don't know is if the gTab p/s actually uses the entire 110 watts or if the inverter will actually let you draw more current than than the manufacturer states. Manufacturers typically build in fudge factors so you may be able to draw a little extra from the inverter & not need as much from the p/s & it may work OK.
Understand the wife thing well. Will you be doing that much charging/using while driving? You should be able to get 6-8 hours out of your battery depending on what you are doing. The gTab is going to draw the most power when actualy charging (vs less while maintaining a fully charged battery). Think of it kind of like charging your car battery. When the battery is low, the charger draws more current & when it gets close to full charge the amps goes down.
In the end the only true test is to try it. It may work or it may try to draw too much current and cause an undervolt condition that would trigger the safety circuits & not output anything.
Al
kevinlekiller, over on slatedroid.com on the Viewsonic GTab sub-forum accessories, posted a pic (I would post a link but being a new member I can not add a link until I have made at least eight post) that shows a tool named "Kill a Watt" and it shows the Gtab only using nine watts while running "angry birds".
aabbondanza said:
According to the specs for the model you quoted, your inverter is capable of supplying 80 watts of power @ 110v or .73 amps. The gTab p/s input says 100-240v @ 1A (thats 110 watts...110v x 1 amp) needed to output the 12V @ 2 Amps the p/s outputs (24 watts).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not how these things should be calculated.
If, at the secondary winding of a transformer, you draw 24 watts, then at the primary winding, too, you will have the same wattage drawn.
According to the ideal power equation for transformers:
Power (in) = Power (out)
ie. V (in) x I (in) = V (out) x I (out)
so, if the at the secondary winding, 2 A is drawn at 12 V, and the input voltage at the primary winding is 110 V, then the current drawn at the primary is:
I (in) = V (out) x I (out) / V (in)
ie. 12 * 2 / 110 = 0.21
So, on the primary side, 0.21 A is drawn to supply 24 watts at the secondary. And since the converter supplies 80 W, you should be able to use it without any problems.
In reality, the gtab will probably never use 24 watts. The sticker at the back says the power consumption is < 24 watts. And the script I use to check these things tells me that the power consumed when charging from a flat battery is ~12 W; and when the gTab is idle at the home screen, it's around 2.5 W. When it's sleeping with the screen off the power drawn is around 1.15 W. It will be even lower when the gTab goes into deep sleep mode.
A big thanks rajeevvp
rajeevvp said:
That's now how these things are calculated.
If, at the secondary winding of a transformer, you draw 24 watts, then at the primary winding, too, you will have the same wattage drawn.
According to the ideal power equation for transformers:
Power (in) = Power (out)
ie. V (in) x I (in) = V (out) x I (out)
so, if the at the secondary winding, 2 A is drawn at 12 V, and the input voltage at the primary winding is 110 V, then the current drawn at the primary is:
I (in) = V (out) x I (out) / V (in)
ie. 12 * 2 / 110 = 0.21
So, on the primary side, 0.21 A is drawn to supply 24 watts at the secondary. And since the converter supplies 80 W, you should be able to use it without any problems.
In reality, the gtab will probably never use 24 watts. The sticker at the back says the power consumption is < 24 watts. And the script I use to check these things tells me that the power consumed when charging from a flat battery is ~12 W; and when the gTab is idle, it's around 2.5 W.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There ya go, I love the way a form like this can get a question answered.
It would make a great bumper sticker. But, all kidding aside thanks to everyone that jumped on this and tried to help.
If she wouldn't mind an extra $4 then this one shoudl work.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1186539
Hi,
I've read some threads here about charging the S3, but not all is clear to me. I would appreciate some explanation:
1) I've read that the stock chargers output 1A. However, on the charger I got with my S3 it's written "output: 5V 0.7A". So do you think I somehow got a wrong charger?
2) I want to buy a car charger for the S3. There are many generic car chargers in ebay, some of then output 2A current. What is the maximum current allowed for the S3? I couldn't find this number in my S3 manual or on the phone itself. Will a charger of 2A cause harm to my phone? or to the battery? or to both?
Thanks in advance!
bump... does anyone know?
My charger output states .05v=1.0a.
As for what aftermarket charger to buy, I would stay away from chargers with more output than the official for 'peace of mind that my charger's specifications are the same as the official charger that came with the phone' reasons.
Cheers
Generally wall chargers output 1000mA (1A) and USB ports 500mA (0.5A)
You do not want to purchase anything that goes above 1000mA
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
I attach a picture of the adapter I got with my S3.
It says 0.7A on it, while it appears that other have one with 1A.
Did they con me with this adapter?
And regarding the maximum current allowed: do you think an adapter of 1.2A might harm the S3?
Do not know where your S3 come from but this charger is not made For S3 but for S2!
I just checked the model number:
S3 charger: ETAOU81EBE
S2 charger: ETAOU10EBE (like yours)
And there is no cable on the S3 charger, it use the USB cable
Thank you for this!
I don't get it. The charger was inside the S3 box and looked original. Damn!
I think the store I bought from import their S3 from Germany, since it came with Vodafone German stock ROM. Is it possible that this is the charger they sell on German vodafon? Or perhaps the store switched it for some reason?
Mine also come from my carrier: french vodafone
Was your S3 box sealed?
Those words, "teg listrik" and "frekuensi" is written in Indonesian
Sent from my GT-P1000 using xda app-developers app
Hi,
Background - I am an electronic engineer and have designed power supplies.
The Amp rating on a power supply is it's maximum capability to deliver power. The Voltage is the 'force' that it can push electrons through the device, this is the important one to have correct. So a 5V 300A Power supply will not charge your S3 any quicker than a 5V 1A power supply.
Get yourself a 1A car charger and you'll be fine. Depending on how the data pins on that charger are configured it'll be recognised as either a fast or slow charger but it will be fine in any case.
So, according to what you say, there should be not problem to use a 5V 2A charger on the S3?
The charger cannot accidentally push too much current to the device?
No. The phone limits the Amp the battery can get.
It simply won't go above 0.5 or 1Amp depending on what resistor is coded between the data pins (the 2 middle pins on the normal USB-plug)
(Note that this does not extend to all devices. E.g. cheap chinese toys and their batteries may not have any current limter, connecting them to "too powerful" chargers will result in damages or potential blow-up of the battery. The same applies to batteries without any electronic such as car batteries which can overheat and "cook")
I bought S3 in Germany 1.0A, there is a date on the charger:18.05.2012
Matching charger to phone
burmo said:
Hi,
Background - I am an electronic engineer and have designed power supplies.
The Amp rating on a power supply is it's maximum capability to deliver power. The Voltage is the 'force' that it can push electrons through the device, this is the important one to have correct. So a 5V 300A Power supply will not charge your S3 any quicker than a 5V 1A power supply.
Get yourself a 1A car charger and you'll be fine. Depending on how the data pins on that charger are configured it'll be recognised as either a fast or slow charger but it will be fine in any case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi burmo,
An interesting concept. I have no clue in these things but what you say is not clear to me "all the way".
Charging my i93100 phone with 5.0V 3.1A will do no harm because it won't "push" more than 1A anyway?
And who is "responsible" for controlling this "push" the charger/battery/phone?
Does it work the same for Car chargers?
Thanks a lot,
Izik
multimeter check on .7amp charger
Animor said:
I attach a picture of the adapter I got with my S3.
It says 0.7A on it, while it appears that other have one with 1A.
Did they con me with this adapter?
And regarding the maximum current allowed: do you think an adapter of 1.2A might harm the S3?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so i have been wondering about this as well because i am currently building a custom charger for my s3 that charges the battery without having to plug into the charging port. i have redirected wires from the wireless charging port to metal tabs i have place on the back of my phone. it is a "drop in charger".
Anyway i have tested the charger that came with my phone. I also have the samsung stock charger that say the output is .7amp but after testing it with mutimeter, i have found that the output is actually 1.2 amps. As for max charging amps, I am not sure. I have tested several chargers. The new S4 charger puts out 2.34amps and i have not found any problem charging my s3 with it.
TrollTollKarl said:
so i have been wondering about this as well because i am currently building a custom charger for my s3 that charges the battery without having to plug into the charging port. i have redirected wires from the wireless charging port to metal tabs i have place on the back of my phone. it is a "drop in charger".
Anyway i have tested the charger that came with my phone. I also have the samsung stock charger that say the output is .7amp but after testing it with mutimeter, i have found that the output is actually 1.2 amps. As for max charging amps, I am not sure. I have tested several chargers. The new S4 charger puts out 2.34amps and i have not found any problem charging my s3 with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I know the phone limits it so as you've found yes you will be fine
My original S3 charger is 5v 1.0amp
My original S3 charger is 5v 1.0amp. It was bought in Thailand with the phone.
I agree with burmo an advanced phone will have a current limiter as part of its circuit, however I prefer not to rely on it and not to exceed the manufacturer volt/amp recommendation.
The phone controls the current. In custom kernels (Boeffla and so on) you can change the target current. The phone has a protection built in, if the voltage is unstable (drops to much) it lowers the current untill the voltage is stable.
A HTC One charger I sometimes use (0,7A rated) only delivers 0,8A. A aftermarket charger I own (1,0A rated) is fine delivering 1,2A (modified target current, not stock). These charging currents can be read by various apps.
Get yourself a 1,0A rated charger and speed up your charging time.
Benjamin
burmo said:
Hi,
Background - I am an electronic engineer and have designed power supplies.
The Amp rating on a power supply is it's maximum capability to deliver power. The Voltage is the 'force' that it can push electrons through the device, this is the important one to have correct. So a 5V 300A Power supply will not charge your S3 any quicker than a 5V 1A power supply.
Get yourself a 1A car charger and you'll be fine. Depending on how the data pins on that charger are configured it'll be recognised as either a fast or slow charger but it will be fine in any case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seconded the post above being an electronic engineer as wel.
Voltage should be exactly the same as you need, but this will always be the case for a USB charger.
Current should just be enough or more.
The charging current is dictated my your phone and not - and I repeat - NOT by your charger!
mine rates at 1A
I have a ton of Qualcomm quick chargers and I'm not feeling this Dash charge with its special cable restriction. I saw this adapter and from the reddit posts, it seems to work well. It even works with normal USB Type C cable. Does anyone have experience with it and the 6T?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=SFC+AFC+VOOC+SCP&_sacat=0
I have some coming in the mail as we speak - I will let you know once I get them tested. There are supposedly some signaling differences between different OP versions, which may require a new adapter.
My take is that none of the WEB- adapters (on eBay) would work with the 6T, since that manufacturer is already selling a specialized adapter for OP beyond or equals to 5T. The WEB- adapters, however, offer a wider range of fast charge protocols as opposed to the YZXStudio adapter, which supports only VOOC-DASH. The YZXStudio adapter also has a current cap, which you can slightly adjust by soldering pins on the adapter itself. You are unlikely to get the full benefit of DASH from the YZXStudio adapter because of this cap, although your Quick Charge chargers most likely will be the limiting factor. Also note that the WEB- adapters require an input of at least 10 or so volts, so their A2A adapters will automatically request QC2/3 @ 12V. If your adapter does not support 12V, then it would not work properly. Your adapter should at least output 12V @ 1.5A for it to be any good after conversion losses.
This cable works although it seems to have gone out of stock.
COOYA OnePlus 6 Dash Type-C Charger Cable, 5V 4A Dash Charge USB C Cable Charging Rapidly, Braided USB Type C Fast Charger Cable Dash Charging for OnePlus 5T, OnePlus 5, OnePlus 3T, OnePlus 3 (6.6FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F3DYDC7
Jaxidian said:
This cable works although it seems to have gone out of stock.
COOYA OnePlus 6 Dash Type-C Charger Cable, 5V 4A Dash Charge USB C Cable Charging Rapidly, Braided USB Type C Fast Charger Cable Dash Charging for OnePlus 5T, OnePlus 5, OnePlus 3T, OnePlus 3 (6.6FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F3DYDC7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the OP is trying to avoid using OP specific cables but rather use a QC2/3-DASH adapter and a normal USB-C cable for charging the phone. That said, aftermarket cables are not that expensive on AliExpress, eBay, or even Amazon. Although if you insist, I would encourage that you get heavier gauge USB cables for this...
chowfun said:
I have some coming in the mail as we speak - I will let you know once I get them tested. There are supposedly some signaling differences between different OP versions, which may require a new adapter.
My take is that none of the WEB- adapters (on eBay) would work with the 6T, since that manufacturer is already selling a specialized adapter for OP beyond or equals to 5T. The WEB- adapters, however, offer a wider range of fast charge protocols as opposed to the YZXStudio adapter, which supports only VOOC-DASH. The YZXStudio adapter also has a current cap, which you can slightly adjust by soldering pins on the adapter itself. You are unlikely to get the full benefit of DASH from the YZXStudio adapter because of this cap, although your Quick Charge chargers most likely will be the limiting factor. Also note that the WEB- adapters require an input of at least 10 or so volts, so their A2A adapters will automatically request QC2/3 @ 12V. If your adapter does not support 12V, then it would not work properly. Your adapter should at least output 12V @ 1.5A for it to be any good after conversion losses.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the information. Please let me know what you can find. I do have QC adapters that support 12V. If there're adapters that works, I rather buy those instead of investing in new bricks, cables, car chargers, battery packs,... My other devices either support QC or PD. Investing in Dash charger doesn't make any sense at all.
chowfun said:
I think the OP is trying to avoid using OP specific cables but rather use a QC2/3-DASH adapter and a normal USB-C cable for charging the phone. That said, aftermarket cables are not that expensive on AliExpress, eBay, or even Amazon. Although if you insist, I would encourage that you get heavier gauge USB cables for this...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, then I misunderstood something. I did read it quickly.
Thanks for pointing out my error.
tengtengvn said:
Thank you for the information. Please let me know what you can find. I do have QC adapters that support 12V. If there're adapters that works, I rather buy those instead of investing in new bricks, cables, car chargers, battery packs,... My other devices either support QC or PD. Investing in Dash charger doesn't make any sense at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hear you - I did buy a multifunction car charger that supports both QC3.0 and DASH - I will report whether that works when it comes (hopefully later in the week if not the following week). I have also gotten the specialized versions from WEB- in China so once I get those I will let you know.
So I got one of the adapters today - this is an older version that does DC to Type C, so I did not expect it to work (even though it specifically listed VOOC and DASH support - maybe it worked for an older OP version).
This one was from eBay, and supposedly the seller sent me the wrong item (WEB- makes a 12V and a 20V PD version - and instead of the 20V version they sent me the 12V version instead - which can only decrease voltage due to the builtin buck converter inside).
So the question is - does it work with DASH charging? --- No, it did not. However, it is still an interesting adapter because it has broad fast charge technology support. They market this little adapter to convert your "dumb" laptop charger into a "multifunctional charger."
Interesting facts:
1. This adapter requires 12V for it to function. It does start turning on at around 11V or so, and anything below that will cause the output to shut off and the operation light to go red. The USB to USB version automatically requests QC @ 12V, but obviously, this cannot be done on a DC jack (on this particular version).
2. As soon as the voltage going in exceeds 11.5V, the output turns on with a steady blue status indication.
3. The USB-C version of this adapter supports USB-C Power Delivery (PD2.0) with three selectable voltages 5.00V @ 3.03A, 9.00V @ 2.39A, 12.00V @ 2.31A (there is a 20V version that supposedly does 15 and 20V as well for laptops, but the seller sent me the wrong version).
4. The input side is a 5.5 x 2.5 DC jack, which is somewhat odd as an input because most input jacks use the smaller 5.5 x 2.1 jack (you can use an adapter on it, however).
5. You can see from the tester that this adapter supports pretty much everything, except VOOC/DASH and 20V QC and AFC 12V.
6. QC 2.0 9V engages just fine to charge my older Nexus 6 via a USB-C to USB-A adapter (since the D+/D- lines are intact).
I do have more adapters coming in soon so I will let you know how they go once they come in (including the WEB- VOOC/DASH specialized USB-USB adapter). This particular version may be a fun adapter to play with, although it won't really help with DASH charging on the OnePlus.
tengtengvn said:
I have a ton of Qualcomm quick chargers and I'm not feeling this Dash charge with its special cable restriction. I saw this adapter and from the reddit posts, it seems to work well. It even works with normal USB Type C cable. Does anyone have experience with it and the 6T?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=SFC+AFC+VOOC+SCP&_sacat=0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought the first one and tried in my car yesterday. With the cable come with OP6T, the DASH charging works! It shows charging rapidly. Cool!
thomast said:
I bought the first one and tried in my car yesterday. With the cable come with OP6T, the DASH charging works! It shows charging rapidly. Cool!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice. Can you link to the exact one that you bought? For it work with non dash cable?
chowfun said:
I do have more adapters coming in soon so I will let you know how they go once they come in (including the WEB- VOOC/DASH specialized USB-USB adapter). This particular version may be a fun adapter to play with, although it won't really help with DASH charging on the OnePlus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. Thanks for the info. It looks like a good replacement for the Macbook 12 30W adapter. :laugh:
tengtengvn said:
Nice. Can you link to the exact one that you bought? For it work with non dash cable?
Wow. Thanks for the info. It looks like a good replacement for the Macbook 12 30W adapter. :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller is resending me the 20V version - will let you know how that goes
Just using anker usb3.0 cables i had from a previous phone. Dont really need to dash charge, this phone seems fast enough.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
dermotti said:
Just using anker usb3.0 cables i had from a previous phone. Dont really need to dash charge, this phone seems fast enough.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for letting us know but what point are you trying to make? :silly:
tengtengvn said:
Thanks for letting us know but what point are you trying to make? :silly:
Click to expand...
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Lol somehow i posted in the wrong thread. Meant to post in the "what usbc are you using for your oneplus"
Facepalm
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Here's an update on the car adapter I have received. Note that the other adapters are still on the slow boat so I will get to them when they arrive. This isn't necessarily what you are after, but nonetheless, it's another interesting toy. If you are interested, it can be found on AliExpress under item number 32916499372.
This is a car charger that accepts 12-24V input, and also supposedly supports multiple fast charging technologies (DASH, VOOC, QC, etc). It comes with an "original" (questionable - but capable of 3.5A charge) DASH cable which is not bad at all for about $13.
Interesting facts:
1) The car charger comes with dual USB ports. One "quick charge" port and one "standard" port. The quick charge port lights up red on one side and the blue indicates the normal charge port. Some may like that it lights up, but my thought is that it's a waste of energy.
2) The Quick Charge port supports all available quick charge methods (the VOOC-DASH section don't light up probably because it doesn't use the same protocol for unblocking DASH charging that the original charger requires).
3) The charger does not require an ID chip on the USB-C cable (unlike the stock charger), which means you can use any USB-A to USB-C cable on the market to activate DASH charging (as long as the D+/D- pins are not shorted out). This car charger doesn't even have the odd PIN in the back of the USB connector for the ID communication.
4) The car charger is not as fast as the stock wall charger, which charges around 3.5A. Here are the test comparisons (allow some current variances due to battery percentage ~70-72% - note all of them had the lightning bolt on the charging indicator which indicated that DASH was indeed activated with none of these cables having D+/D- shorted):
a) Normal, 1 ft USB-A to C Cable: 2.46A
b) Bundled DASH cable, w/ car charger: 2.73A
c) Bundled DASH cable, w/ stock wall charger: 3.5A
d) Normal, 3 ft (Rankie) USB C Cable: 2.56A
e) Normal, 3 ft MicroUSB w/ USB-C Adapter (ANKER): 1.95A
f) Normal, 3 ft multi (MicroUSB + Type C) free conference charging cable: 1.32A (this one did not "pass" the fast charging test because the current is below 1.5A but nonetheless it triggered DASH charging).
Not a big difference if you use quality cables, although don't expect it to charge as fast as the wall charger - nonetheless, it is still doing pretty well with less heat generated due to lesser current.
5) As mentioned previously, the charger supports multiple charging technologies besides DASH, where it activated QC 2.0 9V on my Nexus 6 just fine.
6) Since this adapter allows 12-24V DC input, you can use a DC to lighter adapter to power this device (as you can see in my screenshots I used a laptop battery pack and a 12V router wall brick and it was able to turn on and charge my devices just fine.) This may also be a good way to have a longer reach charging solution since DASH is very cable sensitive and it is best to keep the cable length short to minimize the reduction in charging currents.
Here's a test of the 100 cm noodle cable on AliExpress (item 32806193071):
Using the stock wall charger, charging the phone @ ~50%:
The genuine OnePlus cable was able to charge at 3.657A @ 4.69V (17.15W).
The noodle cable on AliExpress was able to charge at 3.617A @ 4.81V (17.4W).
Based on the results, it seemed like the quality was as good as the genuine cable, at least the copper that is carrying the power to the phone.
Here are the test results of the final adapter I received from WEB- (the specialized VOOC-DASH version - Taobao Item #560336325713):
Stuff to note:
1) This adapter is very similar to the car adapter, in which it supports pretty much all quick charge technologies and it does not require the OnePlus ID chip to activate DASH charging. However, this adapter is QC activated and has a USB-A input interface. Like the car charger, this charger is also not as fast as the stock wall brick, although it is still relatively quick.)
2) The USB pinout schematic also looks the same as the car charger (USB 2.0 with no dangling USB 3.0 pin in the back for ID chip identification).
3) Like the other 12V based WEB- adapters, this one uses the IP6518C chipset, which supports a wide voltage input (10.5V - 32V - from the chipset datasheet).
4) The board looks fairly similar to the USB-C board, except this one has a USB-A input (which is interesting because the board has the DC 12V-24V marking on it still).
5) The board also has the POW and OK lights similar to the USB-C version.
6) Since the board accepts broad input voltages, it is not required to use QC for the input voltage. A USB-A to 5.5 x 2.1 adapter could be used to also provide the DC input, as long as the voltage is above 10.5V.
7) Although the board indeed supports down stepping a 20V DC input, it seems like it is a bit less efficient in doing so than a 12V input.
8) Similar to the previous cable tests, the quality and the length of the cable really makes a difference. The shorter and the better quality cable that is used, the better the charging rate (remember that an official cable does not need to be used for third-party chargers).
9) As mentioned previously, this charger supports other fast charging technologies, like QC2.0 - which works fine in charging my Nexus 6 at 9V.
10) This charger / adapter essentially allows any 12V @ 1.5A output to be a multifunction fast charger w/ DASH support. In my example, I used a Xiaomi router wall brick (12 V @ 1.5A DC) and it charges my phone using DASH at almost 3A output using a short 1ft USB-C cable! (the phone registers the current slightly lower at around 2750mA).
Great info, @chowfun. I was able to purchase 2 OPPO wall chargers from Asia and a 3rd party VOOC car charger which work great.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=78182174&postcount=24
I also got the same oneplus flat cable but 150cm length. It works good with no notable slow down.
From your findings, it looks like the WEB- adapter charge slower but that's still plenty fast and much more convenience. :good: Does it generate a lot of heat when charging a low battery?
Nice keyboard, I like it. ?
That said, the Quick9 charger you bought probably does not require the ID chip as far as DASH is concerned. I didn't get that one because it had a lower current rating and that the top of the charger is wider than the other one I bought. I doubt the OPPO charger would work with a regular microUSB cable since I presume that it also requires the chip on the cable end... Did you also see what kind of maximum currents you are seeing on those chargers?
Heat wise, it does generate a bit of heat with the conversion. But given that the adapter is housed in an aluminum case it's to be expected. It feels just slightly warm to the touch, but not exactly hot to the touch. Instead of that conversion being done in the phone it's just being done outside the phone which is directing the heat away from the battery...
chowfun said:
Nice keyboard, I like it.
That said, the Quick9 charger you bought probably does not require the ID chip as far as DASH is concerned. I doubt the OPPO charger would work with a regular microUSB cable since I presume that it also requires the chip on the cable end... Did you also see what kind of maximum currents you are seeing on those charges?
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LOL. My wife doesn't like those RGB lights. lol
The input and output of the OPPO charger look exactly the same as the 1+ charger. It's pretty much identical except for the cosmetic (logo, prints, the USB A female is green). They're selling for $4.