Hi, I am new to this forum and You will probably be hearing a lot from me.Will this inverter work with the Viewsonic G Tablet: Wagan 2107-6 Smart AC 80 USB Inverter. I purchased it to use with another device and was hoping I could use it with the Viewsonic. I am waiting for delivery of the Viewsonic and was hoping I would not have to buy another car charger. Thanks
lartomar2002 said:
Hi, I am new to this forum and You will probably be hearing a lot from me.Will this inverter work with the Viewsonic G Tablet: Wagan 2107-6 Smart AC 80 USB Inverter. I purchased it to use with another device and was hoping I could use it with the Viewsonic. I am waiting for delivery of the Viewsonic and was hoping I would not have to buy another car charger. Thanks
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Looks like that inverter will up convert from 12V DC to 120V AC and then the power adapter for the GTab will down convert from 120V AC to 12V DC, seems like a lot of wasted energy in the form of heat. You should take a look at the power limits of the inverter. If my electrical training serves me right (22 years ago) 12V x 2A = 24 Watts.
I bought the Vector Mfg VEC009 from Amazon.com for $15.25 shipped. It works, but there is a noticeable buzz if you plan on using the GTab to play music while you leave the charger plugged in, but once the GTab is charged, I was able to drive from Las Vegas to Reno (7 hr trip) playing music and I still had battery life left.
texasbrew said:
Looks like that inverter will up convert from 12V DC to 120V AC and then the power adapter for the GTab will down convert from 120V AC to 12V DC, seems like a lot of wasted energy in the form of heat. You should take a look at the power limits of the inverter. If my electrical training serves me right (22 years ago) 12V x 2A = 24 Watts.
I bought the Vector Mfg VEC009 from Amazon.com for $15.25 shipped. It works, but there is a noticeable buzz if you plan on using the GTab to playing music while you leave the charger plugged in, but once the GTab is charged, I was able to drive from Las Vegas to Reno (7 hr trip) playing music and I still had battery life left.
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I am not an electrician either but if I am interpreting you correctly you are saying this is to much power for the GTab? I originally ordered this for a Pandigital Novel which is 5v 2a and the reason I ordered it was because I could not find a car charger with the correct tip. I though since this inverter accepts regular 110v type house plugs I would not have to ever worry about have to search for a charger with correct tip size again. Besides I all ready have this unit. Will it hurt the GTab?
Not enough
lartomar2002 said:
I am not an electrician either but if I am interpreting you correctly you are saying this is to much power for the GTab? I originally ordered this for a Pandigital Novel which is 5v 2a and the reason I ordered it was because I could not find a car charger with the correct tip. I though since this inverter accepts regular 110v type house plugs I would not have to ever worry about have to search for a charger with correct tip size again. Besides I all ready have this unit. Will it hurt the GTab?
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Your inverter does not output enough power. It may power the gTab for a short time, but texasbrew is correct that the conversion process results in heat being generated & from what I see on amazon, your unit uses passive (no fan) cooling to get rid of the heat. Since you would be trying to draw more power than the inverter is designed to handle (gtab needs 110-120 watts vs 80 watts your inverter is designed to output), it would become hotter than normal and have a harder time disipating the heat generated. The thermal limiter inside would eventually shut it down when the components become too hot or if you draw too much current. In addition, the additional heat could cause the inverter's components for fail quicker.
Depending on if you need to power any other ac devices in your car, you should either buy a more powerful inverter (150 wattt one would do) or consider the dc adapter that texasbrew suggested.
Al
I would only be using it for quick charges not for operating the GTab. My wife thinks I am buying to many gadgets so I am trying to keep peace.
Are you not confusing volts for watts. I'm not an electrician so I do not know.
lartomar2002 said:
I would only be using it for quick charges not for operating the GTab. My wife thinks I am buying to many gadgets so I am trying to keep peace.
Are you not confusing volts for watts. I'm not an electrician so I do not know.
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watts = amps x volts
amps = watts/volt
volts =watts/amps
No, not confusing volts with watts (although one affects the other). According to the specs for the model you quoted, your inverter is capable of supplying 80 watts of power @ 110v or .73 amps. The gTab p/s input says 100-240v @ 1A (thats 110 watts...110v x 1 amp) needed to output the 12V @ 2 Amps the p/s outputs (24 watts).
Ofcourse, we are talking about the specs for the gTab power supply & the inverter. What we don't know is if the gTab p/s actually uses the entire 110 watts or if the inverter will actually let you draw more current than than the manufacturer states. Manufacturers typically build in fudge factors so you may be able to draw a little extra from the inverter & not need as much from the p/s & it may work OK.
Understand the wife thing well. Will you be doing that much charging/using while driving? You should be able to get 6-8 hours out of your battery depending on what you are doing. The gTab is going to draw the most power when actualy charging (vs less while maintaining a fully charged battery). Think of it kind of like charging your car battery. When the battery is low, the charger draws more current & when it gets close to full charge the amps goes down.
In the end the only true test is to try it. It may work or it may try to draw too much current and cause an undervolt condition that would trigger the safety circuits & not output anything.
Al
kevinlekiller, over on slatedroid.com on the Viewsonic GTab sub-forum accessories, posted a pic (I would post a link but being a new member I can not add a link until I have made at least eight post) that shows a tool named "Kill a Watt" and it shows the Gtab only using nine watts while running "angry birds".
aabbondanza said:
According to the specs for the model you quoted, your inverter is capable of supplying 80 watts of power @ 110v or .73 amps. The gTab p/s input says 100-240v @ 1A (thats 110 watts...110v x 1 amp) needed to output the 12V @ 2 Amps the p/s outputs (24 watts).
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That's not how these things should be calculated.
If, at the secondary winding of a transformer, you draw 24 watts, then at the primary winding, too, you will have the same wattage drawn.
According to the ideal power equation for transformers:
Power (in) = Power (out)
ie. V (in) x I (in) = V (out) x I (out)
so, if the at the secondary winding, 2 A is drawn at 12 V, and the input voltage at the primary winding is 110 V, then the current drawn at the primary is:
I (in) = V (out) x I (out) / V (in)
ie. 12 * 2 / 110 = 0.21
So, on the primary side, 0.21 A is drawn to supply 24 watts at the secondary. And since the converter supplies 80 W, you should be able to use it without any problems.
In reality, the gtab will probably never use 24 watts. The sticker at the back says the power consumption is < 24 watts. And the script I use to check these things tells me that the power consumed when charging from a flat battery is ~12 W; and when the gTab is idle at the home screen, it's around 2.5 W. When it's sleeping with the screen off the power drawn is around 1.15 W. It will be even lower when the gTab goes into deep sleep mode.
A big thanks rajeevvp
rajeevvp said:
That's now how these things are calculated.
If, at the secondary winding of a transformer, you draw 24 watts, then at the primary winding, too, you will have the same wattage drawn.
According to the ideal power equation for transformers:
Power (in) = Power (out)
ie. V (in) x I (in) = V (out) x I (out)
so, if the at the secondary winding, 2 A is drawn at 12 V, and the input voltage at the primary winding is 110 V, then the current drawn at the primary is:
I (in) = V (out) x I (out) / V (in)
ie. 12 * 2 / 110 = 0.21
So, on the primary side, 0.21 A is drawn to supply 24 watts at the secondary. And since the converter supplies 80 W, you should be able to use it without any problems.
In reality, the gtab will probably never use 24 watts. The sticker at the back says the power consumption is < 24 watts. And the script I use to check these things tells me that the power consumed when charging from a flat battery is ~12 W; and when the gTab is idle, it's around 2.5 W.
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There ya go, I love the way a form like this can get a question answered.
It would make a great bumper sticker. But, all kidding aside thanks to everyone that jumped on this and tried to help.
If she wouldn't mind an extra $4 then this one shoudl work.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1186539
Related
My wizard power adapter reads
power adapter reads
Model: ＡＤＰ ５ＦＨ Ｂ
Input：１００－２４０Ｖ～０．２Ａ ５０－６０Ｈｚ
output：５Ｖ－１Ａ ＬＰＳ
made in china
can i use this in china?
i know china uses 220 V on 50 Hz, but what does what does that ~0.2A mean? will chinese power stable enough for this device?
if not, what kind of converter do i need?
thanks in advance
You'll need a plug adaptor to fit the chinese plug which looks like
(bad ascii art follows)
\ / (it could vary tho) so that your transformer will connect.
The ~0.2a refers to the amount of current the device draws. It's a tiny amount of current.
To put that in perspective - you've probably encountered 25 watt incandescent light bulbs. If the power supply is 120v and the device is drawing .2 amps its 24 watts. .2 amps at 220v is 44 watts. That's why there's a tilde in front of the amperage because it varies depending on the supply voltage. In reality the thing is just drawing some fixed number of watts but its just not labeled that way.
im sure the plug looks the same
so is that mean i can use it?
You can use it because I just did recently. Although the standard plug in China is different than US or Europe, most hotels have plugs that fit the HTC charger.
it will be ok for 240v output ac adapter working in China.many European elecs are directly selling in China now.and in many high-end hotels of China,you could also find 110v power supplied.
================================================== momda.com ,Practical help with anything related to China & Chinese .
here's how we make cheap external batteries here in Romania.
this is a DIY concept so if you're not that type of person this may not be for you.
Anyway you must get yourself a sealed acid-lead 12v battery (they are built in the same way as a car battery but smaller) from an electronics shop. They are cheap and come in various sizes. If you want more juice, just buy 2 or 3 of those and couple them in parallel.
Next buy a 12v-220v converter like the ones used in cars. Those that are connected via the cigarete lighter. The smallest cheaper model you'll find will do the job right as long as it can provide 30w.
Don't connect the shift to the batteries, don't be tempted to do this, even if apparently the shift needs 12 v and those batteries supply this voltage. Use the converter.
Now, as you may guesed, simply connect the batteries to the converter and the shift's charger to the converter's output. The converter will suply about 220v at it's output. That's good and that's desirable. Even if your country may use standard 110V values at it's sockets, buy a 220v converter instead.
Now you got a bulky, ugly looking external battery. What's the fun with it?
Well here's the good part.
A standard external battery will give you about 2-3 hours of usage because by the time this is over, it's voltage output will drop from it's nominal value to somewhere around 9-10V. The battery will still be able to provide a fairly large amount of current (amps) but however by this time the shift will be powered off because it needs a nominal value of 12 v (+/- 0.80V) to work (it's internal converter needs it, and has a small tollerance about variations in this voltage). So, 2-3-4 hours of usage, then recharge.
The home made external battery has the following advantage.
After some usage (couple of hours - depending on how much big is the battery you use) the output voltage of the cells will drop. This is normal, and this will happen like the case with standard batteries. BUT you have that converter hooked up. If the converter needs 12 V to supply an output of 220V ac, if you apply only 10 V (the voltage on the battery has dropped because of usage) it will supply only 180V ac. (an estimation). This is well under 220 v. BUT the shift will still work. Why? Here's the cool part. The shift power charger has a nominal imput voltage of 100-240 V (it is rated on it's sticker as the imput voltage). THIS MEANS IT WILL SUPPLY THE 12 V OUTPUT FOR THE SHIFT AS LONG AS THE INPUT VOLTAGE IS SOMETHING IN THE AREA 100-240 V ac. So the converter supplies 180V but that's ok, the shift will still work. So you use it for a longer period of time. When the battery is flat out and has somewhere around 7 volts the converter will supply somewhere under 100v or will stop to work because the battery will also have not enought current (amps) to run the converter's main circuitry or to supply the shift's power requiests.
There are some things that must be said about the eficiency of this method. First you use 2 converters one will raise the voltage from the external batteries ( - your car converter) and the other will lower the voltage to the 12v required by the shift ( - your shift charger). These, both have an eficiency factor. Because of the tehnology used you will have a general factor of about 85%. The rest will be lost in the transfer as thermal heat or EM field radiation.
Still you should get 30-50% more juice then a similar capacity comercial product . And it's more cheaper to buy.
You may achieve the same results if you buy a converter...aah...and a car. Car batteries will provide some good dozens of hours for the shift to work.
That is smart!
But too bulky for me.
yep it's bulky. I'll use it on small camping vacations when a longer battery life is required. No way i'm carring this battery with me as a simple replacement.
yep... I've made one already.
Introducing the shift external battery version 1.0.0. At a hefty 8 kilo it is made for the strong people. It is practically a mobile power house composed of two 12V / 15A acid-lead batteries and a power converter that can output 150W max at 220V. It should give the Shift some 30h of continuos power at maximum requirements. It can also be recharged or powered from anything you can throw at it. Total costs, something around 100 euro. Therefore, shift goes to camping along with my asus eeepc. Hope I find an WLAN enabled forest or something.
Shift external battery version 1.1.0 will use prismatic Li-Polimer cells linked in a matrix and capable of delivering the same amount of power but at 1,5 kilograms. This will be expensive as hell.
sorry, i was probably too amused with my creation and double posted.
you should try this with a battery like first robotics compition uses not that they are that great but they are small batteries like the size of a small boat battery, like 9inches wide by 6 tall and like 4thick but it is like 45 lbs, but outputting a redicoulus 200amps id last like 200 hours continuos max draw...
Dear facdemol ,
It is a very bright idea to mod using sealed lead acid battery to power up our htc shift , i too keen to try out your idea , but how do you recharge back the used acid battery , what charger did you bought and used , can you help me by posting some - many pictures of both your batteries configuration and charger as well ? How long ( hours ) is it you need to fully charge your batteries from flat out ? I dont mind if the set up is looking big and ugly and messy , as long as it is cheap , easy , enough power to last at least 6 hours of solid shift usages , i really now thinking of investing into this . So , please help out and assist in any way possible - will you ? Thanks and best regards to you -
jimmunsw
Dear facdemol ,
What charger are u using to recharge your diy battery ( volt and amp ) ? And how many hours it take to fully charge both of your diy batteries ? I am keen to try out your idea as today i have found many cheap sealed batteries sizes for sale in my area and it fits my usage requirement of just 6 to 7 hours of continious shift usage . Thanks and regards - jimmunsw
Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Good news - you can plug just about anything into it from 9V up to 18V and it should charge it. Theoretically, it should also support step up charging from USB (trickle charge) but I've yet to prove that. (The power management processor supports it, but it might not be in the hardware.)
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
So, if you find a connector that fits it, plug it in. Don't worry about the current draw - as long as it's 1A or GREATER it should work fine (the device won't pull more than an 1A, even though our chargers are spec'd for 2)
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
sunglint said:
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
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While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
From Wikipedia:
A second problem is that nominally "Twelve-Volt" power in cars fluctuates widely. The actual voltage will be approximately 12.5 volts when dormant, (less when cold) approximately 14.5 volts when the engine and the alternator/generator are operating, (more when cold) and may briefly drop as low as 5-6 volts during engine start.[7] DC/DC converters will usually compensate for these small fluctuations.[citation needed]
Rarely, more extreme cases of voltage fluctuation can occur when the car battery is disconnected while the engine is running, or when the car receives a jump start. When the battery is disconnected, a load dump transient can produce very high voltages. A car receiving a jump start from a truck will be subject to its 24 V electrical system.[8] A "double battery jump-start" is performed by some tow truck drivers in cold climates.[9]
Design wise one has to take into account intermittent contact, and voltages outside the nominal 12 V DC like top voltage 9-16 V continuously, top voltage at 20 V during 1 hour, 24 V during 1 minute, 40 V during 400 ms.[10] Protection component tolerance example ratings are +50 to -60 V DC[11] Besides this there's also varying temperatures between -40 till +85 °C to contend with that can affect humidity and condensation.[10] Equipment connected this way must tolerate large variations in electrical- and climate environment.
For more, look at table 20-1 in http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download/EMC_CS_2009rev1.pdf which is reference [10] in the Wikipedia article. Granted, that's very conservative, but a 1A 12V low drop out regulator is cheap insurance for a piece of kit like our tablets.
Interesting. If you plug in tablet and that part number into Google you get lots of familiar looking pictures:
http://www.kitarm.com/news/205-cortex-a9-nvidia-tegra2-tablet-pc-with-10.html (and the photos are marked with this site: http://www.okpbw.com/).
bnovak said:
Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
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aasoror said:
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
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Did you read the same post I did? His suggestion is that 19V is too high and still needs to be converted.
wd5gnr said:
While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
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I agree, and thanks for the info. I do ham radio and already know to not plug things in until the car is running, actually learned that from xda years back from cell phone charging. I also use Anderson Powerpoles for the connections, very highly recommend these. This does mean that given the same precautions I already follow I can make up a nice charging cable pretty easily. And I'll certainly look in to the low voltage protection, just in case.
edit:just saw the call sign, 73s!
well unfortunately I can say that this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MYLLCC
doesnt work
actually it might
it just doenst fit......
sigh
My husband just remembered that we bought a power converter years ago to charge a laptop while traveling in Europe.
Would this work without any problems with the Gtab?
Found the model here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jg9JaV...er-Pocket-Inverter-175.html?tab=detailed_info
You mean by plugging in the AC charger to it? Should work fine. The output of the stock charger is about 24W so even if it is grossly inefficient, a 140W power inverter should be fine.
Naturally, I assume no risk, yada yada yada, your mileage may vary, void where prohibited by law.
Hey, if it helps anyone at all, I bought this car adapter from the radio shack and it works well. None of the included tips worked with my Gtab, so I cut the tip off my included wall charger and using two of the adapt-a-plug connectors also available at the shack, I made it so I can use the tip on either my wall charger or my car charger. Just gotta remember to take it with me, and of course get the polarity right. Its a regulated 12 volt charger, so it reduces some of the spikes and drops from the car battery, the amperage is correct, and the on/off switch means you can wait to turn it on until after the car is started. Reduces the amount of plugging and unplugging nicely.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3889594
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
LoganFive said:
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
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GTab can't be charged via USB
Power Brick
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
greymane98 said:
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
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Another member reported earlier that he has researched the power management chip on the GTab and it will apparently run up 18v, this justify why many has been using the iGO Asus netbook tip successfully for so long.
Now for the woot deal, I wouldn't bother with a "refurbished" item when you can get the tried and working travel adapter for $18 (shipped) and $20 (for the version with the auto and airplane adapter) there is a confirmed tip that fits the gtab included.
http://www.buy.com/listing/sellerlistings.asp?sku=211343528&buy=0
http://www.buy.com/prod/-igo-40w-un...usb-4-power-tips-for/q/loc/101/219613586.html
Best of luck,
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
I've been using an iGo netbook charger for 3 weeks without any problem. I found it on sale at Office Depot for $8 the week before they dropped the GTab price to $300. Three weeks is probably only 7 or 8 charge cycles, but I've paid attention looking for hot spots, etc. and haven't noticed anything. I don't love the stiffness of the cable, but it was $8. I'm not complaining.
My only charging "problem" is that the silly thing wakes up when it hits 100% (VEGAn-TAB Ginger). Having the screen come on at full brightness just when I'm falling asleep was funny the first time, but it's getting annoying that I keep forgetting to power it off.
Dan
wd5gnr said:
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
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My mistake, I stand corrected, its 18v.
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
hopbros said:
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
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the end in the tablet itself, or the end with the wire that goes to the wall?
if it's the wire end, you can get new plugs at radioshack. But requires some soldering skill to get them on there.
or you can get a universal 12-18V / 1amp charger with multiple tips.
Hey all, I was looking into getting a car power adapter for hte G-Tab. I looked on Electroniccrap.com, but everything is usually "out of stock." He sells the iGo systems, which Radio Shack also sells. So, I went to my local RS to see what I could find. They didn't have the iGo stuff, but did have enercell converters/adapters, etc.
As I was browsing, I found 2 12VDC car chargers (if you were curious, the "B" plug fits in the G-Tab). But then I noticed a "150W power inverter." It's a car plug that has 3 AC outlets and 1 USB outlet on it. This is ideal for me becuase I usually charge more than one thing when on long trips, GPS, Zune, NDSi, DVD player, and now the G-Tablet. The issue I'm having is that the back of the package said that it's output was 5VDC, typical of most car adapters. I asked the girl that was working if my AC adapter for hte G-Tablet would do it's own conversion, making it's output 12VDC. She said that it would, and said that each device's AC adapter will convert as needed.
Now, my question, is this true? The charger device does have a fuse on it, and some reviews I read (after purchasing, I know) said that it's worked fine for laptops, DVD players, etc. The main complaint is the hum of the cooling fan that's built in.
I briefly tested it today, with my G-Tablet. The battery indicator said it was 100% charged (but we all know that isn't reliable) I didn't take it out of it's case ot see what color the charge light was, but the charge indicator idn't have the lightning bolt in it, indicating a charge.
Does anyone know if she was telling the truth, perhaps? It's a pretty sweet setup, being able ot use AC adapters for all of my devices in the car, if it works as advertised, anyway. I just couldn't imagine why they would create a charger that has 3 5VDC AC outlets on it...
TJEvans said:
I asked the girl that was working if my AC adapter for hte G-Tablet would do it's own conversion, making it's output 12VDC. She said that it would, and said that each device's AC adapter will convert as needed.
Now, my question, is this true?
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of course not, how can someone who works in an electronics shop says so ?!
The 5VDC on the package is most probably the output of the USB port on the inverter.
The inverter should output 110 (or 220v) AC @ 50/60 hz, else you wont be able to use your wall plug adapters.
True the GTab adapter will output the proper voltage (12v DC 2A), but its input must be 110v (220v) AC.
My advice is not to use inverters for small hand helds : GTab, GPS, MP3 players .. etc.
Instead, use compatible car adapters, if you need more than one, get a splitter for your socket.
By the way, here is a compatible (and cheap) car adapter for the GTab: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Car-Charger-Koda...ccessories&hash=item51998a1f04#ht_1399wt_1341
Things may be different in Canada, but here in Pittsburgh, PA, just because somebody works at a certain store, doesn't necessarily mean that they know anything about the items they carry.
we actually have a car power splitter, it worked fine in our Honda Element (that the wife hit a deer with) but the Scion XB we have doesn't have much room between the outlet and the shifter lever, so the splitter doesn't quite fit that well. It is adjustable, but we haven't been able to find a position that works.
In fact, we have a car to double USB port adapter right now, that we are powering the GPS and Zune with, even with just the 2 USB cables plugged into it, it's tight.
aasoror said:
of course not, how can someone who works in an electronics shop says so ?!
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Thanks for the tip - bought one!
FWIW, I'm pretty sure the 'girl in the shop' was simply saying that if you plug your 115/220VAC adapter into the inverter, the adapter will produce whatever it produces when plugged into a wall receptacle, which indeed it should so long as the inverter can produce 24W - and she was just following standard retail practice: 'sell what ya got', and the store *had* an inverter.
Seems like an overly complex way to get 12VDC out of a (nominally) 12VDC system when all you probably need is a regulator.
Another option:
http://www.amazon.com/charger-adapt...OQLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1307712365&sr=8-1
Only one review, but it's a positive one.
TJEvans said:
Things may be different in Canada, but here in Pittsburgh, PA, just because somebody works at a certain store, doesn't necessarily mean that they know anything about the items they carry.
we actually have a car power splitter, it worked fine in our Honda Element (that the wife hit a deer with) but the Scion XB we have doesn't have much room between the outlet and the shifter lever, so the splitter doesn't quite fit that well. It is adjustable, but we haven't been able to find a position that works.
In fact, we have a car to double USB port adapter right now, that we are powering the GPS and Zune with, even with just the 2 USB cables plugged into it, it's tight.
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When I had my Scion xA, there were two power ports. One as part of the dash, the other was between the two front seats... the xB doesn't have this?
5V won't work. The power management chip is designed to handle 9 to 18V, but any car charger that is 12V out and fits will be fine.
Go to Radio Shack and buy the coiled Universal Accessory Charger. Its regulated 12V dc @ 2Mah.
Mine has been working excellent for months, although i can hear a high pitched sqeel in my audio system when the charger is on with no audio playing. I attribute this to a ground issue, not the charger...
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Seems the OP answered his question but I think pointing out a couple of things may be helpful to others.
Haven't met anyone working RS that I thought was stupid but almost none know anything about the electronic components I buy. To think they have vast knowledge of and experience with electrictronics isn't logical.
Most things work with inverters but not all. I have some kind of a power supply, don't recall what, that says not to use it with an inverter. It's true you get 110(110,115,117,120) depending on how it's measured(min,avg,rms or max)) volts out of your home receptical but it's a sine wave. The ouput of a consumer inverter is a square wave.Square waves can cause noise or even overheating in some devices.
The other thing is that to get 110 volts the inverter draws 10X the output current to convert it. With a 20 amp fuse on you cars outlet that means your limited to ~2 amps for your devices.The vehicles system is ~13.5V so that's 27W. If you look at big inverters you'll notice they have battery clamps. 3 AC outlets from a cigarette lighter outlet is way optomistic.
An inverter may be a good choice for occasional use but probably better to keep everthing DC otherwise.
Make sure the inverter shuts itself off if the cars vehicle voltage gets low(i.e.when it isn't running). You could end up with a dead battery or even a damaged one.
rbrainard said:
Mine has been working excellent for months, although i can hear a high pitched sqeel in my audio system when the charger is on with no audio playing. I attribute this to a ground issue, not the charger...
Kind of nitpicking but cars are not grounded. Ground is literally the electrical potential of the Earth. A bad connection on the power or common(chassis) can cause noise but a sqeal is unlikely. The squeal is almost definately the inverter.
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h3llphyre said:
When I had my Scion xA, there were two power ports. One as part of the dash, the other was between the two front seats... the xB doesn't have this?
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It's an earlier XB (2006) and only has the one outlet. When the car is in park, the shifter handle is literally about 5 inches away from the outlet. Having the double outlet plugged in, and angled up (adjustable) will allow some room, but then you are unable to grab the shifter.
I'll be driving to DC next Thursday, and wanted a way to power the GPS, G-Tab, e-cig battery charger, and whatever else my son decides to bring with us (NDSi, DVD player, his iPod touch, etc.)
To JJJustmee: The device does shut off when the car is off, so I'm good there. Also, the inverter itself has a fuse on it, so I assume that if overloaded, then the fuse will give on it, before it effects anything on the car. I don't necessarily plan on running all devices at the same time, more like, run the G-Tablet unplugged until the battery decides to start draining really low. The GPS will be running the entire time. Everything else may be charged for a bit, while other devices are no plugged in. I liked the design of this, becuase the car lighter plug is rather short, since there is a 3 foot wire leading to the AC/USB outlets, like a surge protector. It takes up very little room near the car outlet area. The other options that people posted will not work becuase of the space limitations. I could, and have (in the element) use the outlet splitter, then one double USB outlet, to be able ot handle 3 devices at once, but then we're talking about at least 7-8 inches of plastic pluggs sticking out, and into my shift lever...
JJJustMee said:
Seems the OP answered his question but I think pointing out a couple of things may be helpful to others.
Haven't met anyone working RS that I thought was stupid but almost none know anything about the electronic components I buy. To think they have vast knowledge of and experience with electrictronics isn't logical.
Most things work with inverters but not all. I have some kind of a power supply, don't recall what, that says not to use it with an inverter. It's true you get 110(110,115,117,120) depending on how it's measured(min,avg,rms or max)) volts out of your home receptical but it's a sine wave. The ouput of a consumer inverter is a square wave.Square waves can cause noise or even overheating in some devices.
The other thing is that to get 110 volts the inverter draws 10X the output current to convert it. With a 20 amp fuse on you cars outlet that means your limited to ~2 amps for your devices.The vehicles system is ~13.5V so that's 27W. If you look at big inverters you'll notice they have battery clamps. 3 AC outlets from a cigarette lighter outlet is way optomistic.
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What you're saying isn't quite true. Min, Avg, RMS, or Max are not accurate figures that you can toss out without testing. The Max voltage of a 120v system is 177v, The Root means square (RMS) would be the nominal voltage or 120v. Regardless, when you say it draws 27w you're doing the conversion incorrectly. The only way to change from one nominal voltage to another is via the resistance. So you max can draw 20A at 12v (240w), or 2A at 120V (or 240w ish) via and inverter (assuming your inverter is sized accordingly).
baenap said:
What you're saying isn't quite true. Min, Avg, RMS, or Max are not accurate figures that you can toss out without testing. The Max voltage of a 120v system is 177v, The Root means square (RMS) would be the nominal voltage or 120v. Regardless, when you say it draws 27w you're doing the conversion incorrectly. The only way to change from one nominal voltage to another is via the resistance. So you max can draw 20A at 12v (240w), or 2A at 120V (or 240w ish) via and inverter (assuming your inverter is sized accordingly).
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Said it for me.
If it turns off as soon as you turn the key off it means the outlet is switched. Will protect the battery but also means it can't be used for anythihng while the car is off. Good or bad depending on usage. What I was talking about is the device being able to shut off when battery voltage goes below, say, 11.6v. Fuse and circuit breakers only protect from too high of an amperage draw. If your system wasn't switched it could still dran the battery. Like if the inverter was left on overnight/weekend.
Sounds like what you're talking about could be ok for a trip. Use the USB as much as possible. Lots more effeceint than the inverter. If you actually mean fuse, get extra. If it's a circuit breaker you'll be good to see what does and doesn't work.
Found one on ebay
Found one here
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320690673489#ht_4544wt_937
Just ordered it about $12:00 US delivered. I will let you know how it goeswhen I get in about two weeks.
Igo told me a week ago, that they don't yet have a tip for the Gtab/Zpad but expect to do so by the end of the month
Spec
Here you are some pics of Malata official Car adapter. Maybe you can find some thing to help.
Car charger
Just ordered this from Amazon. (can't link yet - crap) so "30W DC/DC Regulated Adaptor for DVD" do your own search
13.34 shipped. Many more bucks directly from batteryspace
Will post again after I test it.
more info: it comes with two tips, neither of which fit the gtab. I had a proper size tip in our tool box so will check voltages tomorrow.
This has better 12V DC regulation than the oem ac charger.
Guys
YOU DO NOT NEED AN INVERTER TO CHARGE YOUR G_TAB IN THE CAR.
ANY 12VDC (output) charger will work. They are a dime a dozen if you know where to look. Just make sure the tip fits, and is tip positive (symbol will look something like this)
12VDC @1A
(-)-C-(+) with a dot INSIDE the "C" that is connected to the (+)
The power supply controller will work down to 9V and up to 18, which is fine for the 10 to 14V you'll get from a car adapter. Just make sure it isn't a step down.
They should be like $5. You might have to bust out the soldering skills though if you can't find the right tip.
I dont know whats getting worst.
But whats the best replacement charger for xtz that has a higher amps? I already looked in amazon and most of it has a 2a dual and i still want to ask the community
And guys if possible please suggest those has a long data cable
---
I cant wait for the next update on XTZ, something like .67
Displa, camera, battery and some tweak, not sure.
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arcsuser said:
I dont know whats getting worst.
But whats the best replacement charger for xtz that has a higher amps? I already looked in amazon and most of it has a 2a dual and i still want to ask the community
And guys if possible please suggest those has a long data cable
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
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I'm not saying it's the best, but I've been using an old iPad charger (2.1A) for the last 2 months without any problems. I plug the charger into a mains extension lead so I don't need a very long USB lead.
Well i have an iphone5 charger here it says output 5v---1a
Is it ok to charge thendevice with it?
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arcsuser said:
Well i have an iphone5 charger here it says output 5v---1a
Is it ok to charge thendevice with it?
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Click to collapse
Any USB wall wart that is 1.5 amps - 2.1 amps (1500 - 2100 mA) @5 volts will work. The more amps the faster it will charge. In a pinch you could use a 1000 mA charger, it will just take longer.
Alright im confused.. Which is faster mA or A?
And by the way im not asking about the power here but a replacement.
Thanks for the infos though
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1000 Milliamps = 1 Amp
1500 mA = 1.5 A
2100 mA = 2.1 A
Pop Quiz: 5A is how many mA? _____
5000mA is how many A? _____
Often wall warts list output in milliamps
Some external batteries list output in Amps.
It's not hard to convert between the two.
dph3055 said:
1000 Milliamps = 1 Amp
1500 mA = 1.5 A
2100 mA = 2.1 A
Pop Quiz: 5A is how many mA? _____
5000mA is how many A? _____
Often wall warts list output in milliamps
Some external batteries list output in Amps.
It's not hard to convert between the two.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get it..
5000mA
5A
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arcsuser said:
I get it..
5000mA
5A
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
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Click to collapse
Congrats, you passed electricity 101.
Keep in mind that batteries can be fickle creatures. Sony delivers the XTZ with a 1500 mA charger. Based on that alone, it's probably best to replace the original charger with another 1500 mA charger. While you can certainly use more than 1500 mA and it will certainly charge faster, in the long run you may end up shortening the battery life. There are only so many charge cycles to be had in any given battery and quick charging can put an extra strain on a battery that wasn't manufactured to suck up power that quickly.
In a pinch, use whatever you have on hand or can find. For everyday charging, its best to default to what the manufacturer recommends.
The Apple 12W one works perfectly fine and charges the tablet so much faster!
There is people here saying it is impossible because of battery electronics.
It's quite simple: They're plain wrong.
Jequan said:
The Apple 12W one works perfectly fine and charges the tablet so much faster!
There is people here saying it is impossible because of battery electronics.
It's quite simple: They're plain wrong.
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Without doubt the best charger I've used for the money. It keeps up with battery drain on heavy use (Full HD video+Net+ others...at the same time) Stock charger does not. At first glance it does seem expensive but does the job very well.
I sent Sony a link to the Apple website for these as it's much better than the POS charger they give you with their £400 "Flagship" tablet. Well worth the £15 price tag.
Jequan said:
The Apple 12W one works perfectly fine and charges the tablet so much faster!
There is people here saying it is impossible because of battery electronics.
It's quite simple: They're plain wrong.
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Click to collapse
Well, yes and no. Watts, Amps and Volts are all different measurements for different things and it can be quite confusing to figure out to the uninitiated. Watts is a mathematical calculation based on Ohm's Law. Watts = Volts x Amps
All USB devices accept a maximum of 5 volts. USB standards cap the max power delivered to a device @ 5 volts. Most standard USB ports deliver 5 volts @1 amp. Newer computers and specially designed charging ports can and do deliver more than 1 A via USB but they all deliver a maximum of 5 volts.
12 watts divided by 5 volts = 2.4A
If you look at your charger you'll see the output amps listed as 2.1A or 2100 mA.
Sony's included charger only delivers 1.5A or 1500mA, so yes it charges slower and when the tablet is under high load, has a hard time keeping the battery at 100%.
The real concern here, is what effect does delivering 2.1A of current to the battery day after day have on the useful life expectancy of that battery? I don't know the answer because I don't know anything about the battery that Sony uses. It's possible, if Sony, used a top quality battery, that charging with 2.1A will have no effect at all and Sony just wanted to save a buck or two by including a weaker charger in the box. On the other hand, Sony may have deliberately used a battery designed to accept 1.5A and included an appropriate charger.
As I said in a post above, apart from the battery overheating while charging (if it wasn't designed to charge @ 2.1A) and a reduced useful life of the battery, there shouldn't be any real problem using a "slightly" more powerful charger - up to a point. Charge with too many amps and the battery will probably explode or at the very least melt, potentially causing a fire if left unattended.
When talking to Sony, the question you need to ask, "Is the battery rated for 2.1A or only 1.5A?"
dph3055 said:
Well, yes and no. Watts, Amps and Volts are all different measurements for different things and it can be quite confusing to figure out to the uninitiated. Watts is a mathematical calculation based on Ohm's Law. Watts = Volts x Amps
All USB devices accept a maximum of 5 volts. USB standards cap the max power delivered to a device @ 5 volts. Most standard USB ports deliver 5 volts @1 amp. Newer computers and specially designed charging ports can and do deliver more than 1 A via USB but they all deliver a maximum of 5 volts.
12 watts divided by 5 volts = 2.4A
If you look at your charger you'll see the output amps listed as 2.1A or 2100 mA.
Sony's included charger only delivers 1.5A or 1500mA, so yes it charges slower and when the tablet is under high load, has a hard time keeping the battery at 100%.
The real concern here, is what effect does delivering 2.1A of current to the battery day after day have on the useful life expectancy of that battery? I don't know the answer because I don't know anything about the battery that Sony uses. It's possible, if Sony, used a top quality battery, that charging with 2.1A will have no effect at all and Sony just wanted to save a buck or two by including a weaker charger in the box. On the other hand, Sony may have deliberately used a battery designed to accept 1.5A and included an appropriate charger.
As I said in a post above, apart from the battery overheating while charging (if it wasn't designed to charge @ 2.1A) and a reduced useful life of the battery, there shouldn't be any real problem using a "slightly" more powerful charger - up to a point. Charge with too many amps and the battery will probably explode or at the very least melt, potentially causing a fire if left unattended.
When talking to Sony, the question you need to ask, "Is the battery rated for 2.1A or only 1.5A?"
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Click to collapse
That i can agree with and it's a risk i am willing to take. There is people who say the 2.1A charger wont affect charging time in a positive way at all. That's what what i refered to when i said it's not true.
Jequan said:
That i can agree with and it's a risk i am willing to take. There is people who say the 2.1A charger wont affect charging time in a positive way at all. That's what what i refered to when i said it's not true.
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Definitely. More current (which is what Amps measure) means faster charge times, as long as what is being charged can accept the current being provided. You should be fine, but what do I know. PM me in six months and let me know if your battery still last a reasonable amount of time - then we'll know.
dph3055 said:
Well, yes and no. Watts, Amps and Volts are all different measurements for different things and it can be quite confusing to figure out to the uninitiated. Watts is a mathematical calculation based on Ohm's Law. Watts = Volts x Amps
All USB devices accept a maximum of 5 volts. USB standards cap the max power delivered to a device @ 5 volts. Most standard USB ports deliver 5 volts @1 amp. Newer computers and specially designed charging ports can and do deliver more than 1 A via USB but they all deliver a maximum of 5 volts.
12 watts divided by 5 volts = 2.4A
If you look at your charger you'll see the output amps listed as 2.1A or 2100 mA.
Sony's included charger only delivers 1.5A or 1500mA, so yes it charges slower and when the tablet is under high load, has a hard time keeping the battery at 100%.
The real concern here, is what effect does delivering 2.1A of current to the battery day after day have on the useful life expectancy of that battery? I don't know the answer because I don't know anything about the battery that Sony uses. It's possible, if Sony, used a top quality battery, that charging with 2.1A will have no effect at all and Sony just wanted to save a buck or two by including a weaker charger in the box. On the other hand, Sony may have deliberately used a battery designed to accept 1.5A and included an appropriate charger.
As I said in a post above, apart from the battery overheating while charging (if it wasn't designed to charge @ 2.1A) and a reduced useful life of the battery, there shouldn't be any real problem using a "slightly" more powerful charger - up to a point. Charge with too many amps and the battery will probably explode or at the very least melt, potentially causing a fire if left unattended.
When talking to Sony, the question you need to ask, "Is the battery rated for 2.1A or only 1.5A?"
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Click to collapse
You're kinda right, but kinda not....
The charging circuitry inside the tablet is what regulates the charging current, not the 'charger', it will have min and max currents (the thing we plug into the wall that we all call a charger, is really just a power supply, there's no charging circuitry inside it.) That's why it doesn't charge from a standard usb port (which is 500mA) so, if it's charging faster with a 2.1A power supply, then it's obviously designed to do so.
Let's say, for example, the tab can accept a charging current of between 700mA-2.5A. Obviously, the charge time will be slower at 700mA than 2.5A, however, if you were to plug in a 5A power supply, the charging circuitry in the tablet will still only draw the 2.5A its designed to. So, don't worry about giving it too much, it's not possible.
Now, I don't know what the min and max charge currents are, but I can tell you that mine will charge (very slowly) from a 700mA LG charger.
And also, the dock for the tablet states an input of 1800mA,
So, we can assume the min is at least 700mA and the max is at least 1800.
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technaudio,
That's my age showing. Back before some smart guy invented the wheel, we gave a device power and if we gave too much a fuse would blow. I didn't mean to imply that the charging circuit was contained in the wall plug but at the same time, I failed to appreciate that the Tab was designed to prevent an over current situation.
...now let's see what happens when I give this puppy 15A AC...damn, melted the usb cable...
@dph3055
I knew what you meant, but some others on here probably wouldn't.
I've seen a lot of threads saying using a 'too powerful' charger will damage the battery.
It just won't.
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