My friend told me that it is not safe to charge our PDA with car charger (lighter adapter), because the unstable voltage can harm PDA voltage circuit.
Just want to ask you guys, Is it true ? Because I often charge my PDA (BlueAngel) with my lighter adapter. Give me a light please.
I haven't seen one that doesn't have a smoothing circuit so I wouldn't worry. It's been sold for a purpose and millions of people use them as GPSs
He is right that cars have an unstable voltage, though.
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Well i feel that the car chargers are a bit overpriced for what they actually do.
I think i wouldn't be that hard to make one myself, i guess it's not more than a fuse, voltage regualator and possibly a couple of capacitors.
However me loving my shift with all my heart i'd like to be quite shure not to fry my beloved shift because of my own negligence. So i'd like to gather as much info as possible before i start working in this thingy
Of course i'll post a tutorial on how to make one of your own as soon as i get my own to work
So if someone would please for the community's sake (and my own) take one of these charger's apart and post some pics for me to work with.
I'm possitive we all could make one for ourselves, it's not that complicated electronics.
#Josasp out.
Hi there ,
Like u say - i hope u dont fry yr shift just because u like to save a few dollars Best regards ...
I use cable with fuse, done from cigarette light extension. Double-check polarity, if you soldering the connector.
When car is not running, the voltage is about 12.6V, so it´s ok.
When the car is running, you should be sure that car battery is in good condition and can keep voltage less than 14V.
There a people in this forum used Shift with 15 V adapters.
I tried universal laptop adapter with 15 V output, at it works perfectly.
But 15 V seems little overvoltage compare to original adapter.
If you want make stabilizer yourself, it is better to have pulse stabilizer, otherwise, there can be high heat dissipation.
Well if the voltage goes over 14v its not because of the condition of the battery but more dependent on the alternator.
I think a L7812CV screwed to a piece of aluminum would be sufficent for charging the shift.
Do you know how many amp's the shift needs?
Original adapter rated 12V 3A. Just measured the consuption with running both windows and battery charging (and without USB load) - the current is fluctuating until 2.6 A.
Hi there everyone ,
My local seller is selling an oem china made car socket charger 12v 1-3a for usd2 each , i hv tried one plugged into my car and it works on my shift , but i didnt start running my car engine , just turn the power current on .
jimmunsw
I have a USB car charger that doesn't seem to charge as quickly as I would like it to. I say that by comparing it to previous phones and the rate at which they charged when plugged into it.
I read that you can short out the Belkin or Griffin USB charges to make it look like your phone is plugged into the wall. I'm not agains doing this because i like to tweak.
The question really is, I see that Proporta has a 4000mA (2000mA per port) dual port USB charger available. Will this allow my phone to charge like it's plugged into the wall or will it still "look like" I'm plugged into a USB prot charging?
- Cyber
Not exactly sure what you're asking, but I assume that you mean that a wall charger charges the phone faster than a car charger.
Unfortunately, I don't know if this is the case. USB is a universal standard with specific power requirements. Although there are medium and high power chargers out there, I would be reluctant to get something so extreme. I think USB calls for 500 mA standard, so I'd be careful using the charger you mention. You might want to do some more research on it, or contact the company about it.
I'm not an expert but my opinion is that usually USB-Wall charger supplies up to 1000 mAh (written on power supply transformer) while the USB-OutPC is only 500 mAh, in fact, I've noticed that the full charge of my Titan takes double the time if charged via PC.
Not sure about the amount supplied by cars USB adapter.
...my two amperes...
Some of the chargers accomplish support for things like the iPad 2 by shorting the two USB connectors. Some advertise things like 2000ma, but fail to deliver much more than 500ma. I am not sure if this is due to the choice of shorting out the data connectors to trick your phone in to thinking it is plugged in to the wall.
Back in the WM 6.5 days, you could accomplish this at the phone driver level and did not need to modify your chargers.
I would not worry about trying something rated higher as your phone would regulate the current. I personally intend to do my experimentation by shorting out the cable rather than the charger (cables are more easily replaced). Unfortunately, there is no app for WP7 that can measure the charging current, so the only way to do this scientifically is to use the battery status app and measuring the charge rate over time.
If you do the mod, post back and let us know. When I get around to the USB cable experiment, I will post back as well.
So as the title says,i found some nice GPT 2100mah charger to pick.
would it be nice to pick or it would damage my phone?
Original chrager is 800mah or 850mah i dont remember correctly for now,not like its a big matter.
thanks for your replay .
DanielMod said:
So as the title says,i found some nice GPT 2100mah charger to pick.
would it be nice to pick or it would damage my phone?
Original chrager is 800mah or 850mah i dont remember correctly for now,not like its a big matter.
thanks for your replay .
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Click to collapse
I'm fairly sure that the phone regulates charge current, and a bigger charger will not charge faster than the phone wants to. The original charger is probably as big as the phone needs.
You may want to check the owners manual (sorry I'm too lazy - not trying to be a jerk).
I can tell you that in general its not good to use a higher amp, you could overload the protection circuitry in the electronic device you are trying to charge.
If it were me, I wouldn't except for an emergency situation.
Okay,thanks .
I've been using an ipad 2 2AMP charger and with no problem what so ever. Well, a USB device may need as little as a 100mA but a ton of mobos can pump >1A on some ports. The charging circuitry will draw only as much as is required. That's all I can contribute to this post.
On second thought, look at powered USB hubs. In that case, we have an easy 2A distribution across ports.
And, regular light bulbs.
if V(~110/220) is fixed, R is fixed, then so is I(current in amps) - basic Ohm's law.
This is a matter of basic electronics principles. The relevant equation here is I = E / R. E is voltage, which should be 5 volts for USB power. R is resistance, which is controlled by the electronics in the phone. Since neither of those change, I (current or amperage) remains the same.
Basically, the charger is rated for higher amperage because it can handle devices which draw more power than your phone. The charger does not control the amperage being delivered. It can only limit it.
Your Razr charger is not 800 mAh, it is mA.
The 2100 mAh is how much juice the battery stores, not outputs.
Thanks again everyone .
How long does it take you guys to charge your HDX? I feel that mine might be charging lower than intended. I'm in an outlet. Just curious.
Charging time depends heavily on charger and/or cable
Usermade89 said:
How long does it take you guys to charge your HDX? I feel that mine might be charging lower than intended. I'm in an outlet. Just curious.
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Click to collapse
Actual charging time will greatly vary, & depends heavily on the cable that is used (heavier cable == thicker wires == faster charging) & most importantly on the charger that is used (look to see how much current it can supply . . . It will be marked something like 5VDC @ 2.1 A). Whether it is a wall charger or a cigarette plug charger (or any other kind of charger) makes little to no difference. The amount of current that it puts out (that's "A" or "amps") is the main number that affects charging rate . . . obviously the higher the current supplied, the faster the charge rate. Also, the current number that is important is either the one listed with the "5VDC" or the one listed as "output". Anything listed with the input voltage (xxxVAC for a wall charger or 12VDC for a cigarette plug charger) is essentially unimportant.
Mark J Culross
KD5RXT
Furthermore, you need a cable which is wired to tell the device to go into account mode (two pins are shorted on purpose) like the one which came with your kindle fire (as opposed to the ones that came with the sink kindle).
Heyyyy guys, it's been a while now since my one x+ died on me...
Some part on the motherboard probably got fried as it won't charge.
Can anyone tell me what the pins of the battery are, like what's the positive and negative pole?
There are 6 pins, 2 red, 1 white, 1 green and 2 black.
Which one can I use to charge the battery and on the phone, what pins should I use to get the current flowing through the phone?
I know it's just the charging circuit as it powers up when the battery is charged, and no it doesn't smoke or get any warm at all when I plug it in, thus, there definitely is a defect.
I just want to use this phone like on my desk or something because I can't sell it at this state anyway and the phone I use atm is an s3 mini
Hi
Unfortunately I haven't the answer to your question, but tomorrow or friday i'll give my HOX battery to a my colleague that is an electrical engeneer to check the real capacity of battery...and i'll try to give you an answer.
I think that the general rules "RED is POSITIVE" and "BLACK is NEGATIVE" is always valid, but maybe the two red wires have a different voltage....
However i'll let you know soon.
Could you do me a favor? I need a photo of HOX+ battery! Could you take a photo of your and reply to my post here?? http://forum.xda-developers.com/htc-one-x2/help/hox-battery-replacement-photo-t3026505
Thanks!
K-Skulz said:
Hi
Unfortunately I haven't the answer to your question, but tomorrow or friday i'll give my HOX battery to a my colleague that is an electrical engeneer to check the real capacity of battery...and i'll try to give you an answer.
I think that the general rules "RED is POSITIVE" and "BLACK is NEGATIVE" is always valid, but maybe the two red wires have a different voltage....
However i'll let you know soon.
Could you do me a favor? I need a photo of HOX+ battery! Could you take a photo of your and reply to my post here?? http://forum.xda-developers.com/htc-one-x2/help/hox-battery-replacement-photo-t3026505
Thanks!
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Click to collapse
Sure! I'll upload it once I'm home.
And I don't seem to be able to hook up my voltmeter to measure the voltage of the battery since the pins are a little... Well... Too small, obviously
And I found out one of the red pins on the phone side don't make the 'beep' sound when hooked up to my multimeter, when touching the GND...
I confirm that you can charge the battery using the either of two red wires (that are POSITIVE pole) and either of two black wires (that are NEGATIVE pole)...They have the same voltage (3.8v but it depends by the charge of battery...it can vary from about 2.75v at 0% and about 4.1v at 100%)
The other two wires (green and white) are probably the internal temperature sensor.
The problem is that if you want to manually charge the battery with a "standard" phone charger you have to calculate the charging time!!!
Because without the charging circuit board integrated in the phone there aren't any overvoltage and overcharge controls on the battery and it will be damaged if you charge it too much!!! (With risk of FIRE and EXPLOSION of the battery!!!)
I suggest you to buy a "smart" 3.7v Li-ion battery charger to manually charge your battery...it's a really cheap accessories and it's the safety and easy way to charge li-ion batteries.
K-Skulz said:
I confirm that you can charge the battery using the either of two red wires (that are POSITIVE pole) and either of two black wires (that are NEGATIVE pole)...They have the same voltage (3.8v but it depends by the charge of battery...it can vary from about 2.75v at 0% and about 4.1v at 100%)
The other two wires (green and white) are probably the internal temperature sensor.
The problem is that if you want to manually charge the battery with a "standard" phone charger you have to calculate the charging time!!!
Because without the charging circuit board integrated in the phone there aren't any overvoltage and overcharge controls on the battery and it will be damaged if you charge it too much!!! (With risk of FIRE and EXPLOSION of the battery!!!)
I suggest you to buy a "smart" 3.7v Li-ion battery charger to manually charge your battery...it's a really cheap accessories and it's the safety and easy way to charge li-ion batteries.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, and yeah, I aknowledge the consequences when it's done wrong.
That's why I asked, and I do have a "smart" charger, you let the pins of it touch the battery's charging pins and it stops charging when full. It should be around 3.7V, gotta check that later.