Related
Greetings all,
Well here it is as promised, the fix for the dreaded audio adapter not working after upgradeio flash was of ROM. First of all, I upgraded my ROM and radio to DCD's newest 3.0.0 and radio, which fixed my SelectRadio issue where it dropped out, and looked at the RNC and discovered that it was as I suspected a timer value in the radio ROM was tweaked wrong causing the BER to run away and make the PPP session reinitialize very quickly or go dormant all together, but new radio fixed it. Still we had the audio adapter broken after upgrade issue, so here it is and how to fix it:
First, there is no 'electronics that you have to have' in the adapter as advertised. The problem was that a pin is wired differently in the ones that exibit the problem. The fix is as simple as clipping a wire ! Yep, thats right. Ok, with the connector of the adapter pointed at you, the curved part down, you will notice there are 6 pins on the lower edge. Numbered 1 thru 6 from left to right, pin 1 is unused, 2 is the tip of the 3.5mm jack, 3is unused, 4 & 5 are audio ground (sleve), 6 is the ring on the connector. On the stock adapter and the pigtail sound only adapters that do work properly this is how it is. The ones that mess up are a little different in that pin 1 is shorted to 4 & 5 which did not make a difference before, but really seems to upset any ROM based on 6.1. All you have to do is GENTLY cut the adapter and clip the wire going to pin 1 and all is good, no loss of any functio, it even still powers/charges as this is done by pins 1 & 5 on the top row. A tiny odity is that on some adapters the tip and ring are reversed resulting in left and right channels being reversed, but you can fix or ignore that at your leisure. ENJOY !!!!!!!!!!!!
P.S. Maybe a mod would make this easy to find or sticky it ??? I bet many people are wrestling with this easy to fix issue, I know it bugged the stew out of me til I just sat down and figured it out. Thanks for looking at my rant and being patient as I took a long time to follow thru with my promise.
I've read what you posted in both of the adapter threads, and just want to confirm. I have the adapter shown in this link:
http://www.semsons.com/2miusband3st.html
Your fix works on this adapter? I wonder if there is a way to just remove pin 1 from the adapter without having to cut it open. How did you reseal the molded plastic (I assume some sort of glue). Thanks!
Thats the one
MIK1200 said:
I've read what you posted in both of the adapter threads, and just want to confirm. I have the adapter shown in this link:
http://www.semsons.com/2miusband3st.html
Your fix works on this adapter? I wonder if there is a way to just remove pin 1 from the adapter without having to cut it open. How did you reseal the molded plastic (I assume some sort of glue). Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats the one I am talking about and i was thinking you might just be able to pull the pin but i was worried about damaging the connector.
Confirm
This fix works also with the HTC adapter that comes with the device.
Don't cut open the adapter, try to cut the pin 1 from outside in.
Thanks!
Pretty ghetto fix....
But I'll have to try it later, because rigging up 2 adapter and having to plug them in, in a certain order is really sucking.
madman34 said:
P.S. Maybe a mod would make this easy to find or sticky it ??? I bet many people are wrestling with this easy to fix issue, I know it bugged the stew out of me til I just sat down and figured it out. Thanks for looking at my rant and being patient as I took a long time to follow thru with my promise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe this could be a Wiki topic
I can't believe this
First of all thank you for saving everyone on this forum money, because now we don't have to buy adapters to try and figure this out.
I spent months without being able to use the adapter and finally broke down and downgraded to the original 2.17 ROM.
Now, I can finally use the adapter again and can't believe that it was so simple all along.
I can't thank you enough.
This modification of the adapter works - I just confirmed it.
Michael
this is great. I now have garmin mobile gps, all my bluetooth devices working, and at last music through my headphones. life is good.
This will be great if I can get it to work. How are you guys removing pin-1? Are you opening the adapter or are you removing from the connector? If your removing from the connector, what are you using?
I took an exacto knife and bent pin 1 up and tried to bend it to get it to break to no avail, so I just bent it up as much as possible and pushed it into the connector hoping it would not short out any other wires, got lucky cause it works now, thanks for the tutorial
OMG!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I just figured it was worth trying this before buying a new one. I used a thread ripper to move pin one around till it was not aligned correctly then i just plugged it into my phone hoping it would break the pin. But it didnt, it bent it way far into the adapter. I thought i was screwed ... but i plugged it in and it works now! THANKS AGAIN!
you are the awesome!
pics?
Can anyone post pics of their "modded" adapter? I'm not new to soldering, but I am new to cutting open a molded rubber piece like this...
sputnik said:
Can anyone post pics of their "modded" adapter? I'm not new to soldering, but I am new to cutting open a molded rubber piece like this...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ditto. Can someone post a diagram or picture so we know exactly which one is pin 1.
x10dude said:
Ditto. Can someone post a diagram or picture so we know exactly which one is pin 1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is based off reading madman34's post. I *THINK* this is what you should see when you look at the jack on the PPC6800 and the connector on the audio adapter. Can anyone verify this?
Code:
PPC6800
_______________
| |
| 4 3 2 1 |
| 6 5 4 3 2 1 |
|______________/
USB/Audio Adapter
_______________
| |
| 1 2 3 4 |=====|===== to USB*: 1) +5V DC, 2) Data-, 3) Data+, 4) Ground
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |=====|===== to Headphone**: 1) Unused***, 2) Tip (Left Channel****),
\______________| 3) Unused, 4) & 5) Sleeve (GND),
6) Ring (Right Channel****)
* [URL="http://pinouts.ws/usb-pinout.html"]http://pinouts.ws/usb-pinout.html[/URL] (the 4th physical pin is unused,
and therefore not labeled in these diagrams)
** Based entirely off madman34's research. I have not verified any of this.
*** On non-working adapters, this pin is shorted to 4 & 5. If your adapter does not work,
disconnect the wire leading to the pin or bend the pin back so that it does not make
contact in the jack.
**** Left & Right Channels might be swapped on some adapters.
Thanks for running with this
The diagram is spot on and I think pin 3 might be the microphone line, but have not tested this yet.
madman34 said:
The diagram is spot on and I think pin 3 might be the microphone line, but have not tested this yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If that's the case, then I'd assume that pin 1 would be microphone ground. Are there any audio adapters that also provide microphone input? If so, maybe we should warn people not to cut pin 1 if they plan on using the microphone.
Or maybe it's possible that all of the non-working adapters were built to include microphone support, which for some reason isn't working.
It works!
Thanks!
I didn't get the pin to come out...But I guess it's bent back somewhere...
I used a sewing needle and then used that other adapter that came with the phone to crush it.
Are you people screwing with the port on your phone or the connector on the adapter? I personally would NEVER mess with my phone to get some adapter working.
jrebeiro said:
Are you people screwing with the port on your phone or the connector on the adapter? I personally would NEVER mess with my phone to get some adapter working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
we are only talking about messing with the adapter's, not the phone......my adapter cost only $4 so I didn't have much at risk here
You DID NOT do that did you?
Otter said:
It works!
Thanks!
I didn't get the pin to come out...But I guess it's bent back somewhere...
I used a sewing needle and then used that other adapter that came with the phone to crush it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Otter, the way you put that it sounds like you did mess with the pin on the phone. Please say that we read this wrong as I meant only to alter the cheap adapter and never the phone.
Seems to be a perfect fit for the ASUS 40 pin connector.
Now we have to decide WHAT to make. I was thinking about a few items, but your suggestions needed.
Wheeeeeeee....
Note: There may be other places to get it, but this is the first place I found it.
Mouser Part #: 571-2129276-1
Manufacturer Part #:
2129276-1
Manufacturer:
TE Connectivity
Description: I/O Connectors 40P CABLE MNT PLUG CHAMP DOCKING
Stock: 1,070 Can Ship Immediately
Pricing (USD)
1: $3.49
10: $3.14
25: $2.85
100: $2.71
PS: These are very small connection points, so you need to have special soldering equipment (sub-mm tips).
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
SoundSurfer said:
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea. I like it a lot.
I ordered a couple of these ACT4060 items:
ACT4060A SOP-8 ACT4060 Wide Input 2A Step Down
The idea is to take 15V from the tablet or charger and step down to 5V to power a USB hub, similar the the ASUS USB host device (same part).
I also thought to add a 5.5mm female barrel socket for charging with a 15V power supply, like these: Power Supply DC 15V
Note: Many other power supply are available from 12V-15V with 5.5mm barrel plug.
---------- Post added at 03:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 PM ----------
w04g005 said:
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great, thanks!
I do not think the HDMI output is on the 40 pin cable, but I could be wrong. There is audio available, because it is on the TF101 Desktop Stand.
Any links to an infrared control?
Bob Smith42 said:
Any links to an infrared control?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry,
i have no link for infrared control. I only have seen the video with infrared remote from the tablet s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbYzckPXJ2Q&feature=player_embedded
But we can try to combine a standard usb infrared adapter with the 40-pin connector. Maybe it doesn't work because of the lack of drivers (if they couldn't get extracted from the sony tablet). But i have to say that i'm neither a electronic technician nor a programmer. Only wanted to suggest my wishes ;-)
Maybe this can help:
http://www.irdroid.com/
greetings
Can you make a regular USB cable with this connector ?
question: do you have the pin out of the 40-pin connector?
w04g005 said:
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
fisha21 said:
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
i think i will buy these to replace my harmony one.
greetings
Matthias
how about a mini usb cord? So I could plug my DSLR camera into it and download the pictures on the fly?..or even a micro to plug the phone in...but if it was a USB hub, it would work as well..just a longer cord.
w04g005 said:
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
w04g005 said:
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
I thought this thread would be more popular. If the plug didn't cost so much to ship to my country I'd be building a wall charger with a long lead and a car charger.
Sent from my u8800 using XDA App
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
PatrickVogeli said:
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally got my USB Host Kit for the TF, so I can work on the connector pin out. The USB Kit did not work (for me) on the dock 40 pin socket, so apparently there are differences between the Dock and Tablet 40 pin sockets.
Can anyone can confirm the USB Kit does/does not work on the dock 40 pin socket?
Thanks
fisha21 said:
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems many people like infra-red controls. Here is some pics of the I-Got-Control device for the iPod/iPad/iPhone.
There seems to be only a few lines connected to the Apple 30 pin connector. Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
I think this might be easily attached to the Asus USB Host or SD adapter.
Thanks!
a backpack style add-on for the TF would be neat...something that adds a battery/usb/etc at the cost of making it a bit fatter and maybe taller..
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
Any updates on this?
Amazed at how hard it is to find a 30-pin connector pinout, seems Apple tweaked it a bit as new generations came along.
This is the kind of thread I love to see, on Android+TF!
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
If I were to solder every connector point through a wire, would connecting the dock from the side through the 40 pin connector to the bottom slot of the TF give the same communication as if the TF is docked? Been wanting to "dock" the tablet without actually having them together.
Yeah, it would work, but instead of soldering better find connectors and a cable. I'm thinking of doing it to my USB adaptor (which is very badly done, completely loose).
Bob Smith42 said:
Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Isn't that available all over the net?
pinouts.ru /PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
Cheers!
-M
Xda member since 2007
Ok, i know theres a sticky for the GPS dongle but this isnt one of those "Wheres my dongle" or how to sign up threads so i thought it diserved its own thread. If you have questions about how to acquire a GPS dongle or want to say you got yours or whatever this is NOT the place to do it. See the sticky. kthxbie.
Still with me? Awesome! In having multiple primes i have recieved multiple GPS dongles. Since i rarely use one as it is, let alone them all at once i was wondering what sort of tweaks / hacks / mods have people tried (or wanted to try but were too afraid of screwing up their only dongle) that i might do on my extra one?
I already plan on doing a full teardown, taking highres macro pictures of the connector as well as unsoldering the shielding on the PCB and seeing whats underneath. Anything else you guys can think of?
Im not too worried about ruining the device if it means i can try something cool! Lets hear those ideas!
UPDATE: isolated the dock connector. Thus far with my tester these pins are grounded: (back view)
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ G _ G
G _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ G
I know theres an official dock connector thread here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1630300 but im not sure which pins according to that thread match what i have here.
UPDATE 2: removed dock connector, looks like only the bottom row goes to the dongle, not sure yet if any of the top row go anywhere inside the dongle or if it terminates at the connector. Will continue to test.
UPDATE 3: Ok, uploaded my work for tonight, traced a few of the connections just to see where everything is going. There WERE a couple that were coming out the top row, the two resisters on top, that MIGHT be the trigger to tell the prime its connected to an external device? who knows. anyways, its very late here, i will continue to test as i have time and as people show interest.
UDATE 5/5/2012
Ok, been doing some research and testing and whatnot, i have some very bad news. In order to attach any kind of connector to charge the tablet with the dongle attached it would mean soldering a wire to four of the pins on the connector on the TABLET SIDE of the pcb, UNDERNEATH the connector (the really fine pitch pins). Maybe i will have to take a picture to show what is needed.
Suffice to say chances of a mod that can be completed by most people out there is very low. I will continue to try to find a solution.
The red square shows which pins would need to solder the 15v+, the ground could be soldered to any of the grount points. (+5v to each of the three pins or +15v to all three)
Additionally, i have been doing some work on the pinout, trying to clean up the information we currently have. No offence to bjonston115 but his thread is confusing since every source has pins labled differently and there is info scattered everywhere. Bear with me as i try to sort the mess out and make something we can all use
You are so lucky. Wish I had a spare. My main hope is to determine who makes the connectors (if possible), and what pins are used inside that connector, along with how it's mounted.
My desire, is to procure a connector, to add to the dongle shell, and the wiring, so I can permit the tablet to be charged while the dongle is in use.
When I drive 14 hrs to FL, my battery will run out, mid trip. So far, my only solution is to carry an external GPS to use while the TP charges.
Looking forward to your teardown.
Bob
Images. Took as many pics as i could as i was removing bits n pieces. If you want a picture of a specific part let me know. Pictures uploading, give me a minute or two...
I think a power mod should be straightforward. The dongle shell looks "thick" enough to accomodate a USB female Type A connector, mounted orthogonally. You'd want one with right-angle contacts similar to the one below, so you can let it "bottom out" against far side of the dongle shell. For aesthetics, I'd dremel the opening at the back side of the dongle rather than front, but this depends on your car mount.
The next step is to solder jumper wires from USB's power and ground pins to appropriate pins on 40-pin connector. Since USB adapter for TF101 is same for Prime/300, we can assume pin-out for USB functions is still same. Somebody already posted partial pin-out in another thread.
Soldering to the USB contact isn't a big deal, but to the finer-pitch 40-pin connector would take a bit of finesse.
Note: TF101/201/300 can charge with [email protected]
@pileot: Suggest taking a caliper and measure inner and outer thickness of dongle (ie w/ and w/o the shell thickness).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-USB-sh...ale-socket-Connector-PCB-Socket-/260991770971
unfortunately i dont have access to calipers, far as i can measure outside thickness is about 3/4 maybe slightly less, inside thickness is about 1/8 inches. sorry i cant be more accurate.
im assuming you want to throw a USB on the PCB? im not exactly sure how you want to connect that usb female connector, or what the purpose would be to do so.... Mind explaining just a little more?
Mount: Use dremel to create a rectangular hole (12.5mm x 5.2mm) at the back (or front) of the dongle. Use a short-body USB connector w/ right-angle contact like the previous, and mount it orthogonally, eg perpendicular to dongle facing. I think the short-body one has a length of about 0.5" so it should flush-mount. But if not, having it sticking out a bit isn't a big deal.
Purpose: To charge tablet w/ either [email protected] or [email protected] I would go with the second, since USB car chargers for it are widely available (that's what the iPad uses).
e.mote said:
Note: TF101/201/300 can charge with [email protected]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that the PC USB charge @~500ma takes forever and the TP has to be shut off, but what would the deal be with [email protected]
Would I be able to continue to use it as it charged, or would it need to be shut down too.
I'd probably use a USB 3 connector in place of the pictured USB 2
Thanks for the idea...I never thought of that....now all I got to do is to wait till I get my dongle.
Bob
ahh! makes sense.... sure would be nice if we had a full connector port. Maybe i could make a trip to an electronic component store and pick up some USB connectors.
If you just want to use it for power then dont we just need any sort of connection to the charging ports and the outside of the dongle? It doesnt have to be USB it could be anything as long as you have a male and female connection
pileot said:
unfortunately i dont have access to calipers, far as i can measure outside thickness is about 3/4 maybe slightly less, inside thickness is about 1/8 inches. sorry i cant be more accurate.
im assuming you want to throw a USB on the PCB? im not exactly sure how you want to connect that usb female connector, or what the purpose would be to do so.... Mind explaining just a little more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a neat tool in Google Play called Smart Tools. Possibly you could get better measurements of the items you want to measure by using the tool, and laying the item right on the screen. I have it installed, and think it was a well done app.
Bob
>I know that the PC USB charge @~500ma takes forever and the TP has to be shut off, but what would the deal be with [email protected]
No idea. That's something you can find out afterward. Having the mod in place won't hurt anything.
My guess is that it should be good enough to at least maintain battery level while on, which would be all that's needed in a car.
>It doesnt have to be USB it could be anything as long as you have a male and female connection.
You can use barrel power connector. But you'd have to make your own power cable, as opposed to using a standard USB cable to connect to the charger. Edit: On second thought, you can use a [email protected] car charger, then get a mating barrel connector.
http://google.com/search?q=12v+1.5a+car+adapter
from what i understand if you have the tablet on and try to charge with 5v it wont even maintain the current battery level. The tablet charges with 15v or something... having a barrel connector would ensure you dont accidentally plug a prime charger into another USB device frying it.
At that point if we could just get the barrel plug right to the power pins, fitting it in should be too hard....I am really interested iin this because I have 2 dongles coming tomorrow annd planned on hacking one....(I got two because one was RMA and they sent me a new one back 2 serials=2 Dongles)
BSMan1011 said:
At that point if we could just get the barrel plug right to the power pins, fitting it in should be too hard....I am really interested iin this because I have 2 dongles coming tomorrow annd planned on hacking one....(I got two because one was RMA and they sent me a new one back 2 serials=2 Dongles)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See edited first post. Because the top row does not go to the back of the PCB and i believe thats where the power is, it would be hard to throw a charging circut in there. I am still working on locating where all the pins in this thing go but it is very tiny, even with my finest nodes to test these circuts its very delicate work.
In the mean time, i will upload what i do have before i go to sleep tonight (maybe in another hour or so) so stay tuned!
Okay I will try and keep updated... if we could get a charging circiut in maybe a true car mount might be a project... at least for me, I already have a tablet window mount and with some changes I could affix a modified dongle at the bottom and just slide prime in for GPS + charging (again if we can get it to work)... I get mine today and disassembly will soon follow so I will post anything else I can to help progress
pileot said:
UDATE 5/5/2012
Ok, been doing some research and testing and whatnot, i have some very bad news. In order to attach any kind of connector to charge the tablet with the dongle attached it would mean soldering a wire to four of the pins on the connector on the TABLET SIDE of the pcb, UNDERNEATH the connector (the really fine pitch pins). Maybe i will have to take a picture to show what is needed.
Suffice to say chances of a mod that can be completed by most people out there is very low. I will continue to try to find a solution.
The red square shows which pins would need to solder the 15v+, the ground could be soldered to any of the grount points. (+5v to each of the three pins or +15v to all three)
)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay first off...have we all decided to stay low until we progress, i don't want this thread to die so soon...secondly...though I am sure you have done you research I still must ask, Are you sure? if we can provide any charge to the prime it will at least help a bit...also does anyone one else have other ideas other than charging?...
one idea I literally just thought of so it is not very thought out is, what if we remove the dongle case( as we have done) and integrate it into case.... we will need one of the 40-pin cables to wire onto it but maybe it could fit into some cases.
I will continue to try to think of more uses and mods and will update, meanwhile I hope that we can get some more input
Hmm, you've made quite a bit of progress there. I really wish I wasn't lazy haha, I need to learn to really work with electrical stuff.
So, then the dongle uses some of the pins that would be used for power from the dock? If the dock can pass power without changing the Prime, I should think the dongle could somehow. I mean, only certain pins are used for data right, so the dock and dongle should use the same ones?
Ok, firstly. Yes, im sure. Im sure of the pin placement and based on the best available information scattered around the internet, i know which pins the charger uses and i know where they are located on the dongle. I also know there is very little access to them (as seen in the pictures in OP)
as to integrating the dongle INSIDE the prime casing you would, essentially, be succoming to the same problem the internal antennas have: Metal blocking the signal. Sure its a more powerfull antenna however its encased in PLASTIC not metal, the signal it recieves is a lot stronger and there is less EMI caused by the metalic back plate. Short: Yes you can, no you dont want to.
Finally, the pins the prime uses to draw power are different than the pins the charger uses to supply power. Think one lane dirt road vs a 6 lane highway. On the highway you have dedicated lanes for traffic going in different directions. this is similar to how the prime dock connector works, the prime can turn off power to different connections depending if there is something plugged in reducing the chance of a short, spark, or power drain.
Hopefully this addressed your concerns, maybe when i have apropriate tools handy and a bit of time i may try soldering a connection to the dock connector and see how it functions but as you can see its REALLY tight. I will do my best, no promises.
I also plan, in the near future, to locate more of the data pins, see whats going on, maybe we can make a USB adapter for the dongle and use it in other devices as well! who knows, im thinking it just uses a standard USB interface but it will take more digging.
Subscribed as I see no need for the dongle unless you have enough power.
Though I was pretty sure you were sure I just wanted to ask.... but you did misinterpret my idea, I do not mean the Prime's casing but rather integrating the gps into a case which holds the prime...This is not to say that the gps is big or in the way but just an idea i had to help people with cases and a use for the gps, but since the usb uses different pins that looks unlikely as well i guess...well I will stay updated and if I learn anything I will post.
I would be more interested in adding a power jack of some sort to the dongle. So you can charge while using navigation. I already can not use my dock while plugged into the dongle. We need power!
Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
ale_kons said:
Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
would like to know as well
in all devices that i tested at home i found you need at least a power supply of 12V 15amps.
Power supply i use here
As for connecting the unit Red and yellow wire to +
and black to -
best way is to get a Universal Male ISO Radio Wiring Harness
some units use a small thin red wire now just for signal.
your devices should have the a wiring schematic either glued to the case or in the instructions book.
make sure the unit is properly fused and get spare fuses before attempting the above.
I use a small sla 12v battery from wheel chairs and power-wheels. Then i have a couple of spare harnesses from ebay. The harnesses on these radios are generic and can be had for about $4 USD like this one Link
Hello,
I have the following HA:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IPS-4GB-RAM-Android-8-0-Octa-Core-Multimedia-DVD-Player-GPS-Navi-Stereo-Radio-for/32966326918.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dmQoxfP
I would like to configure this HA in house, my question is that it is possible to connect to a PC power supply? If yes, how?
Thanks in advance,
@neosnd On my unit I had a thick yellow (batt +12v) and thick black (ground). Thin red (Acc +) which is your ignition feed (so unit has a constant 12v on the yellow, red 12v+ turns the unit on)
On a computer PSU (search ATX pinout) like this: http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF - you want to find a 12v (pin 11 or 12 - Yellow 12v+), ground (any "com" - pin 3,5,7 but in our case easier to use 24 (near 11/12)) and for our purposes you can just twist the red acc+ into the 12v power (yellow) so the unit is always on. If not just use one of the spare 12v. then all we need to do is short the "PSU on" (Pin 16) to any ground (pin 16 to 17 with a paperclip if you want to mcguyver it like I do) - then power switch on computer PSU turns the power on and off.
Check to see if your unit has a pinout on top, mine had a sticker saying which was the 12v, ground etc which I worked this out from. If not, google your car stereo pinout, see where the 12v, ground and acc+ feeds are and mirror them onto the plug to your unit.
Hope this helps!
Hello everyone,
Motivated by my tablet's failing USB connector and the great difficult of importing an original B&N charging dock (I'm overseas right now), I decided to try and see whether I could DIY a charging connector mysef, that would connect to the "quick connector" in the tablet's bottom.
First the good news:
I discovered that a standard 0.1" (2.54mm) PCB header like these has the exact pin size/spacing to make contact with the quick connector. So, no need to "fabricate" a connector from separate pins.
I used a digital multimeter to measure voltage on the pins, with the tablet both on and off, and with a USB charger both disconnected and connected, and apparently pin #1 (counting from the left when holding the tablet in landscape mode and looking at its front) is +5VDC, and pin #2 is GND (pin #3 seems to be a direct connection to pin #2 -- they are always at the exact same voltage --, and pins #9 and #10 seem to be +D/-D, not necessarily in that order).
Now the bad news:
I connected a 5V power supply to pins #1 and #2 as above (ie, +5VDC to pin #1 and GND to pin #2), but the tablet doesn' t react in any way (doesn't light up and show the "charging screen" when powered off, nor shows the "lightning bold" charging indicator in the battery icon in the notifier when powered on).
I tried changing GND to pin #3 (see above), with the same lack of results.
The moderately good news is that my attempt did not "fry" anything, the tablet kept working the same as before.
Does anyone have any more info on this "quick connector", or perhaps a better "solution" to my failing USB connector issue (I would be willing to disassemble and replace the USB connector, but I've searched Youtube and iFixIt to try and find a how-to-disassemble video, to no avail. The best I could find was these "internal photos" from the tablet' s FCC submission, but it doesn't show how to open it, and I see no screws nor anything -- not willing to try prying it open at the seams and risk cracking the case or worse).
Thanks in advance,
-- Durval.
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
tgp1994 said:
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear you like it!
tgp1994 said:
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be. I also remember that a long time ago (like, 2008) I had an original (pre-Android) Motorola Razr which wouldn't charge except in a computer or with Motorola's own charger. I was thinking of full-blow USB connect negotiation... but you are right, it could be just a resistor or something.
I'm just not too keen on connecting more 'stuff' into those pins by trial and error, specially the supposed D+/D- things... I've managed to not fry the device so far, but one never knows when one's luck is running out until it finally does...
tgp1994 said:
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the Discord link! I will be sure to contact them and learn what I can re: opening the device.
Cheers,
--
Durval.
Just keeping the thread posted: I posted a similar question on the Discord server linked above, here's what I got:
Ryzen5-3600 | iPhone 12 Pro Gold — Today at 9:13 AMIt's really difficult to open the Nook Tablet. Mine had a cracked screen so it was easier to open up the device. The screen is made out of this really cheap plastic, it breaks so easily. My guess is to get like a small plastic guitar pick and pry open the back.
[9:14 AM]
You might have to get like 3 or 4 for safe measures to help keep it open so it won't close shut again
So, I think it's better to refrain from trying and opening my Nook, at least for now ;-)
I'm trying to get a dock, when/if I get one I will open it and see for myself what the heck it does to make the Nook recognize it.
I will keep this thread posted.
Cheers,
-- Durval.
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
hugoyhu said:
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any luck? I bought the same keyboard for $4 at my B&N and just tore it apart. Turns out it only uses 5 of the 10 pins. The white box in the pic was pulled off so it originally did fit slightly more forward. Hopefully you can tell where it's supose to go.