Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
ale_kons said:
Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
would like to know as well
in all devices that i tested at home i found you need at least a power supply of 12V 15amps.
Power supply i use here
As for connecting the unit Red and yellow wire to +
and black to -
best way is to get a Universal Male ISO Radio Wiring Harness
some units use a small thin red wire now just for signal.
your devices should have the a wiring schematic either glued to the case or in the instructions book.
make sure the unit is properly fused and get spare fuses before attempting the above.
I use a small sla 12v battery from wheel chairs and power-wheels. Then i have a couple of spare harnesses from ebay. The harnesses on these radios are generic and can be had for about $4 USD like this one Link
Hello,
I have the following HA:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IPS-4GB-RAM-Android-8-0-Octa-Core-Multimedia-DVD-Player-GPS-Navi-Stereo-Radio-for/32966326918.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dmQoxfP
I would like to configure this HA in house, my question is that it is possible to connect to a PC power supply? If yes, how?
Thanks in advance,
@neosnd On my unit I had a thick yellow (batt +12v) and thick black (ground). Thin red (Acc +) which is your ignition feed (so unit has a constant 12v on the yellow, red 12v+ turns the unit on)
On a computer PSU (search ATX pinout) like this: http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF - you want to find a 12v (pin 11 or 12 - Yellow 12v+), ground (any "com" - pin 3,5,7 but in our case easier to use 24 (near 11/12)) and for our purposes you can just twist the red acc+ into the 12v power (yellow) so the unit is always on. If not just use one of the spare 12v. then all we need to do is short the "PSU on" (Pin 16) to any ground (pin 16 to 17 with a paperclip if you want to mcguyver it like I do) - then power switch on computer PSU turns the power on and off.
Check to see if your unit has a pinout on top, mine had a sticker saying which was the 12v, ground etc which I worked this out from. If not, google your car stereo pinout, see where the 12v, ground and acc+ feeds are and mirror them onto the plug to your unit.
Hope this helps!
Related
Does anyone know where I can buy the plug that plugs into the bottom connector for an XDAIIs?
I've asked everyone I can think of, searched Google, Maplin(UK) and Expansys and I can't find one.
It's probably because I don't know the correct name for it!
Ideally, I'd like one that has all 22 connections and even cables attached - they look really hard to solder onto by hand!
Any information would be greatfully received :lol:
Thanks
...Spence
http://www.gomadic.com/connectors.html sells connectors
Wallaby, Himalaya are compatible with HP iPAQ Connector Plug Assembly (19/22/38/39/41/43/51/54/5500 Series)
but read that the plug of BlueAngel is not exactly the same.
I purchased an XDA II car charger from the O2 shop in Manchester - it came with a plug that works fine with my XDA2s - have used it on the car charger and on the supplied power lead - charges fine.
When I got my IIs, it CAME with the plug already, any standard car charger can plug right into that plug and then the IIs... You sure you guys didn't get it?????
I think you mis-understood me - I'll try again!
I have developed a complete installed car kit for XDA, XDAII and IIs that does the following.
Mutes stereo when in call and puts all sound to front speakers
Can put navigation commands through the stereo
Hooks up to external microphone
Has PS2 (Holux) and RJ11 (TomTom and Leadtek) GPS connections
Charges device
I'm trying to get hold of a connector with 22 connections because I have one problem left.
To switch the car kit on, I either need a 5V feed from the device OR need to be able to put 5V in on one pin and get 5V out of another.
If anyone can help with either the connector or letting me know which pins I might be able to use send me a mail please
Thanks
...Spence
connectors
have you tried RS componets or CPC.?
Hi guys.
I am looking to buy the Brodit active mount for my blackstone. Does the cigarette charger contain a transformer? If not, can I not simply buy that version, chop the plug off, then hardwire it to the fusebox???
The hardwire version is £15 more!
foxstartwo said:
Hi guys.
I am looking to buy the Brodit active mount for my blackstone. Does the cigarette charger contain a transformer? If not, can I not simply buy that version, chop the plug off, then hardwire it to the fusebox???
The hardwire version is £15 more!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cigarette plug does contain the transformer. Bur I've bought the same hardware for the same (price) reason. I've mounted (hard-wired) a (cheap) additional cigarette plug (the "female" side) behind the panel and plugged the brodit cig plug in... only **** was that i had to cut the cable anyway to get it behind the panel, and then re-connect it.
regards jan
Hard wiring isn't too hard on it.
Buy a inline fuse adaptor from Halfords and solder this to the positive wire.
Then if you have a spare wire coming from the radio loom that uses Spades or Bullets, just crimp one of these to the wires of the plug and plug it into the positive / neutral.
I have a non-factory standard radio and had to get a radio harness adaptor (to make it to ISO from factory). With this cable I added a section in to have bullets on the switch live, permenant live and netural, just so I wasn't changing existing wires to the car.
Then connected the charger part via bullets and works a treat!
cheers guys. I bought the hardwire version as i found it for £30 on ebay.
Good to know that i'd have needed to get an inline transformer - makes me feel better!
Paddy.
I am looking for a permanent car charger cable to install into my car.
It needs to be a 15' to 20' long with a straight cord for a hidden cable run.
I would like to hook it up to the cars wiring under the dash, run it under the windshield pillar trim to between the headliner and roof then drop out above the rear view mirror. I would then plug it into my car dock this just makes a cleaner look.
I have searched around the net but no luck yet.
Any help would be appreciated.
I haven't seen that, but what you may need to do this this. I did something like it a few years ago with a radar detector
get this or something like it
http://cgi.ebay.com/Belkin-Mini-Uni...Accessories&hash=item3a66d9f61b#ht_643wt_1396
and then a usb cord for the length you want, and attach the power and ground to the cig lighter adapter you can take it apart if you need just make sure you get the + and - right and leave the fuse in there. then tape it up nice with electrical tape and wire it in to the fuse panel to turn on with the ignition. its really not as getto as it sounds.
i just use that adapter and plug it in my back seat lighter and run the cord up by the front seat
I Would just use a cigarette lighter adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...082602&p_id=6765&seq=1&format=3#specification
hidden under the dash, and then plug in one of these:http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5138&seq=1&format=2
Everything you need to put a 12v cigarette lighter socket under the dash is available at an auto-parts store for <$10.
Why don't you just connect to the wiring that is connecting to the cigarette lighter adapter?
That way it would be 5V, and then you can connect that to a project box, and install a fuse in there, and then put the wiring from that to the usb cable.
I did this about 10 years ago, when I directly connected the radar detector, and lights under the seats controlled by buttons. Was fairly easy to do, depending on how much room you have to work with connecting the wiring.
nejohnson said:
I Would just use a cigarette lighter adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...082602&p_id=6765&seq=1&format=3#specification
hidden under the dash, and then plug in one of these:http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5138&seq=1&format=2
Everything you need to put a 12v cigarette lighter socket under the dash is available at an auto-parts store for <$10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much this is close enough to what I was looking for, I will make it work!
KMac Tilt said:
Thank you very much this is close enough to what I was looking for, I will make it work!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
buy a 12v socket too, get something like this, should be cheap on ebay, then just snip off the male end and stripe the cable so you can tap your car's 12v socket wiring
http://www.google.com/products/cata...sa=X&ei=9Xg6ToTpGeuksQLKluEk&ved=0CI8BEPMCMAc
Just as an FYI, as I see what you are going to do and it is a far better alternative.
A 10'+ cable will not give you full charging voltage at the end of that run. The cable is too long for the small amount of voltage running through it. While it WILL still charge, it will be at a fairly slower rate.
There is a thread in the EVO forums where I was asking cause it was something I noticed and someone who seemed to know what they were talking about when it came to electricity, replied.
I would link it, but been up all night and am getting tired.
Lord Delmar said:
Just as an FYI, as I see what you are going to do and it is a far better alternative.
A 10'+ cable will not give you full charging voltage at the end of that run. The cable is too long for the small amount of voltage running through it. While it WILL still charge, it will be at a fairly slower rate.
There is a thread in the EVO forums where I was asking cause it was something I noticed and someone who seemed to know what they were talking about when it came to electricity, replied.
I would link it, but been up all night and am getting tired.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as far as I know USB cable can go up to 5m or about 16ft, this length has more to do with data transmission signal quality issue, for straight charging there's no signal at all, so shouldn't be a problem. When you get a chance please post your link, so i can study this some more
went google found this...
http://www.otdl.com/VDROOP.PDF
Here is the thread...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=844055
Here is my post within that thread, its post 23, but my question is answered around 25.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=9402352&postcount=23
Have you checked with 12 Volt Designs, they offer a couple of options that may work for you.
I would post a link, but I am still new to this forum
This is such a good idea!
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Get a 2amp 2 usb car lighter charger from Amazon and 15 or 20' micro usb cable from monoprice.com... Exactly my setup with a exo gear Exomount for my evo to windshield mount.
Sent from my HTC Evo 3D
I got tired of multiple cigarette lighter adapters a while back. I bought a 5A 12V to 5V converter on eBay, and wired it to switched power. It powers my phone, GPS, and Bluetooth audio gateway all from the one little box.
Hi All,
So I've spend the best part of the weekend trying to find a wiring diagram for the cable for the TF101.. one of my delightful kids pulled on the wire to disconnect it from the adapter, and left the actual usb plug behind - so I now have a cable with 6 wires exposed, and a seperate (and mangled) usb plug.
I've ordered a new cable - but urgently need to charge my TF101 today... does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram so I can connect the wires direct to a 12v adapter - or know which of the wires in the cable are + and - ?
many thanks in advance
Nick
The can bus unit I have is for Ford Explorer and is being used in my 2005 Ford Freestyle with a Pumpkin 6.95" (7") Kit Kat DVD etc etc unit.
Bought around late Oct or November to replace a Cheap Walmart DUAL display that I bought for the car. I did add the can bus to that unit as well.
What has happen that this week, the radio would never shut down when key was removed and door opened. It would stay on with a display.
I have used Custom roms from all developers and updated the MCU to latest. So I thought yup, something bad with software, but that was proven to be wrong.
I contacted Pumpkin support and they said to test it by cutting the red wire (ACC) and connect to the car lighter. That is the understanding that the car lighter goes off. Mine does not, stays powered up.
But since I work as R&D and been in electronics for well over 55 years, I decided to look into the decoder.
1. It has a 16 pin plug with only 8 being used. Of the 8, take 2 out for power (constant and ground), 2 for can bus communication.
2. out of the 4, 1 is used for the ACC control (Red)., 1 for Illumination control (Orange), another had a cut Violet (purple) wire. A brown wire I did not trace at all.
The ACC wire connected to the cars ACC wire directly. This is the starting point to see why I had 12 volts when it was supposed to go away after so many seconds.
Internally of the can bus, 3 circuits that I found where controlled by P-Channel MOSFETS. These are transistor like on-off switches. A regular transistor controlled these MOSFETS to apply 12 Vs to the radio 3 wires.
1 was for the Illumination (Orange), the other in my case (Red) for ACC control. and the Purple one, well wire was cut. The MOSFET outputs (one side of the switch) had a large current diode that would apply
12 volts to the wires (Red, Orange and Violet). Well, the ACC one was a more hefty diode. The diodes are used to block the Cars 12V from directly connecting to the MOSFETs thus they are called Blocking Diodes.
I check the leads of the 3 MOSFETS with a digital ohm meter. The leads on the MOSFETs that I was concern are the S (source) and D (Drain). These are used like a switch contact. The G (Gate) is like the lever
which is controlled by the internal processor.
I had 1 MOSFET that was shorted S-D meaning it will have 12 V all the time on the lead which was the Red lead.
Since the Violet wire was cut and not used, I used that to replace the shorted one. These MOSFETs are 2.8 Amp components and are Surface Mount Devices (SMD).
Now the question is, how did this SMD short. The diode is still good, it most likely could short if the ACC circuit went to ground. The ACC wire of the car connects to the radio like the Can Bus. If thats the case, the control for that would also be bad, but with the Cheap DUAL radio, that works ok. So I think, it simply went bad, maybe because my trip just a week ago was in the Southwest of the states where the outside was 120 degrees F in the shade.
I have yet to put the radio back in the car to test it. Hopefully I get it back Saturday and see, but I'm sure it should be ok. I did inform Pumpkin of the results since part of my job (which is in the Medical Device Field) is to find why things fail and resolve it.
Now, how would on solve this on your own, .. Well, look at your radio and check which wire controls the function that seems to be working incorrectly. Mine was ACC Red wire. The Can Bus circuit Delays the shut down of the radio I think via the Can Bus. Cutting the wire that connects to the can bus that controls that signal (red) and see if the radio shuts down when you remove the key and open the door (Car ACC now controls the shutdown of the radio.
I wonder if a Diode should be put into the wiring between the ACC of the car end to the radio ACC input and tie the can bus ACC to the radio side ACC.
Kind of like Car ACC plug ------>| -----.--------Radio ACC in
|-------Can Bus Red wire
When the car ACC is 12 volts, it powers the Radio.
When car ACC goes away the can bus powers ACC to radio for time out.
Don't know..
I hope this helps.. I kind wonder off sometimes.. But I hope you understand
Wayne
It does help -- thanks! As my unit doesn't use CANbus, it would be even more helpful for me if you could sketch out the whole interconnect between CANBus adapter and head unit (with connector & pin #s identified), including how they both connect to the car.
I would expect to see a standard (TXD & RXD) UART serial port connection between CANbus adapter and head unit, probably at 38.4Kbaud. Curious too what MCU device they use in the CANbus adapter, though that is purely curiosity; not likely to be able to get to the code inside it.
dhmsjs said:
It does help -- thanks! As my unit doesn't use CANbus, it would be even more helpful for me if you could sketch out the whole interconnect between CANBus adapter and head unit (with connector & pin #s identified), including how they both connect to the car.
I would expect to see a standard (TXD & RXD) UART serial port connection between CANbus adapter and head unit, probably at 38.4Kbaud. Curious too what MCU device they use in the CANbus adapter, though that is purely curiosity; not likely to be able to get to the code inside it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try to drum up a schematic of this for you and others.
i will include a sample of the p-mosfet info as well.
the connector, i will try to locate correct pin numbers, if not, a drawing of it
Oldpapa49 said:
I will try to drum up a schematic of this for you and others.
i will include a sample of the p-mosfet info as well.
the connector, i will try to locate correct pin numbers, if not, a drawing of it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have figured the wiring pretty much. Schematic I'm still working on.
At the CanBus side.. a 16 pin plug. 8 are used. looking at the wire end with retainer tab up starting from the left 1= BLK, 2= GRN (MSCAN+), 3= ORN Illumination, 4= BRN Brake in (Parking Brake)
next 4 blank.. 9= YEL (+12V Battery), 10= GRN/BLK (MSCAN-), 11= RED ACC, 12= VIOLET (No Connection, cut wire)
The radio on FORDs use MSCan buss, not the High Speed type.
This my radio and info: https://www.amazon.com/Touchscreen-Navigation-Receiver-Explorer-Mirror-link/dp/B016UL0WU0
Back to work
Hmm. No other connections to the HU? I take it this system doesn't support steering wheel keys?
dhmsjs said:
Hmm. No other connections to the HU? I take it this system doesn't support steering wheel keys?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has swc1 and ground.
2005 car.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Oldpapa49 said:
It has swc1 and ground.
2005 car.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so it uses resistive ladder keys then.
dhmsjs said:
Ok so it uses resistive ladder keys then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. The canbus use in this car is very limited. It is suppose to work with the Entertainment system, but nope. New cars but not this model.
Oldpapa49 said:
Yup. The canbus use in this car is very limited. It is suppose to work with the Entertainment system, but nope. New cars but not this model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can bus works now. Repair works.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app