The can bus unit I have is for Ford Explorer and is being used in my 2005 Ford Freestyle with a Pumpkin 6.95" (7") Kit Kat DVD etc etc unit.
Bought around late Oct or November to replace a Cheap Walmart DUAL display that I bought for the car. I did add the can bus to that unit as well.
What has happen that this week, the radio would never shut down when key was removed and door opened. It would stay on with a display.
I have used Custom roms from all developers and updated the MCU to latest. So I thought yup, something bad with software, but that was proven to be wrong.
I contacted Pumpkin support and they said to test it by cutting the red wire (ACC) and connect to the car lighter. That is the understanding that the car lighter goes off. Mine does not, stays powered up.
But since I work as R&D and been in electronics for well over 55 years, I decided to look into the decoder.
1. It has a 16 pin plug with only 8 being used. Of the 8, take 2 out for power (constant and ground), 2 for can bus communication.
2. out of the 4, 1 is used for the ACC control (Red)., 1 for Illumination control (Orange), another had a cut Violet (purple) wire. A brown wire I did not trace at all.
The ACC wire connected to the cars ACC wire directly. This is the starting point to see why I had 12 volts when it was supposed to go away after so many seconds.
Internally of the can bus, 3 circuits that I found where controlled by P-Channel MOSFETS. These are transistor like on-off switches. A regular transistor controlled these MOSFETS to apply 12 Vs to the radio 3 wires.
1 was for the Illumination (Orange), the other in my case (Red) for ACC control. and the Purple one, well wire was cut. The MOSFET outputs (one side of the switch) had a large current diode that would apply
12 volts to the wires (Red, Orange and Violet). Well, the ACC one was a more hefty diode. The diodes are used to block the Cars 12V from directly connecting to the MOSFETs thus they are called Blocking Diodes.
I check the leads of the 3 MOSFETS with a digital ohm meter. The leads on the MOSFETs that I was concern are the S (source) and D (Drain). These are used like a switch contact. The G (Gate) is like the lever
which is controlled by the internal processor.
I had 1 MOSFET that was shorted S-D meaning it will have 12 V all the time on the lead which was the Red lead.
Since the Violet wire was cut and not used, I used that to replace the shorted one. These MOSFETs are 2.8 Amp components and are Surface Mount Devices (SMD).
Now the question is, how did this SMD short. The diode is still good, it most likely could short if the ACC circuit went to ground. The ACC wire of the car connects to the radio like the Can Bus. If thats the case, the control for that would also be bad, but with the Cheap DUAL radio, that works ok. So I think, it simply went bad, maybe because my trip just a week ago was in the Southwest of the states where the outside was 120 degrees F in the shade.
I have yet to put the radio back in the car to test it. Hopefully I get it back Saturday and see, but I'm sure it should be ok. I did inform Pumpkin of the results since part of my job (which is in the Medical Device Field) is to find why things fail and resolve it.
Now, how would on solve this on your own, .. Well, look at your radio and check which wire controls the function that seems to be working incorrectly. Mine was ACC Red wire. The Can Bus circuit Delays the shut down of the radio I think via the Can Bus. Cutting the wire that connects to the can bus that controls that signal (red) and see if the radio shuts down when you remove the key and open the door (Car ACC now controls the shutdown of the radio.
I wonder if a Diode should be put into the wiring between the ACC of the car end to the radio ACC input and tie the can bus ACC to the radio side ACC.
Kind of like Car ACC plug ------>| -----.--------Radio ACC in
|-------Can Bus Red wire
When the car ACC is 12 volts, it powers the Radio.
When car ACC goes away the can bus powers ACC to radio for time out.
Don't know..
I hope this helps.. I kind wonder off sometimes.. But I hope you understand
Wayne
It does help -- thanks! As my unit doesn't use CANbus, it would be even more helpful for me if you could sketch out the whole interconnect between CANBus adapter and head unit (with connector & pin #s identified), including how they both connect to the car.
I would expect to see a standard (TXD & RXD) UART serial port connection between CANbus adapter and head unit, probably at 38.4Kbaud. Curious too what MCU device they use in the CANbus adapter, though that is purely curiosity; not likely to be able to get to the code inside it.
dhmsjs said:
It does help -- thanks! As my unit doesn't use CANbus, it would be even more helpful for me if you could sketch out the whole interconnect between CANBus adapter and head unit (with connector & pin #s identified), including how they both connect to the car.
I would expect to see a standard (TXD & RXD) UART serial port connection between CANbus adapter and head unit, probably at 38.4Kbaud. Curious too what MCU device they use in the CANbus adapter, though that is purely curiosity; not likely to be able to get to the code inside it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try to drum up a schematic of this for you and others.
i will include a sample of the p-mosfet info as well.
the connector, i will try to locate correct pin numbers, if not, a drawing of it
Oldpapa49 said:
I will try to drum up a schematic of this for you and others.
i will include a sample of the p-mosfet info as well.
the connector, i will try to locate correct pin numbers, if not, a drawing of it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have figured the wiring pretty much. Schematic I'm still working on.
At the CanBus side.. a 16 pin plug. 8 are used. looking at the wire end with retainer tab up starting from the left 1= BLK, 2= GRN (MSCAN+), 3= ORN Illumination, 4= BRN Brake in (Parking Brake)
next 4 blank.. 9= YEL (+12V Battery), 10= GRN/BLK (MSCAN-), 11= RED ACC, 12= VIOLET (No Connection, cut wire)
The radio on FORDs use MSCan buss, not the High Speed type.
This my radio and info: https://www.amazon.com/Touchscreen-Navigation-Receiver-Explorer-Mirror-link/dp/B016UL0WU0
Back to work
Hmm. No other connections to the HU? I take it this system doesn't support steering wheel keys?
dhmsjs said:
Hmm. No other connections to the HU? I take it this system doesn't support steering wheel keys?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has swc1 and ground.
2005 car.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Oldpapa49 said:
It has swc1 and ground.
2005 car.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so it uses resistive ladder keys then.
dhmsjs said:
Ok so it uses resistive ladder keys then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. The canbus use in this car is very limited. It is suppose to work with the Entertainment system, but nope. New cars but not this model.
Oldpapa49 said:
Yup. The canbus use in this car is very limited. It is suppose to work with the Entertainment system, but nope. New cars but not this model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can bus works now. Repair works.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Related
Seems to be a perfect fit for the ASUS 40 pin connector.
Now we have to decide WHAT to make. I was thinking about a few items, but your suggestions needed.
Wheeeeeeee....
Note: There may be other places to get it, but this is the first place I found it.
Mouser Part #: 571-2129276-1
Manufacturer Part #:
2129276-1
Manufacturer:
TE Connectivity
Description: I/O Connectors 40P CABLE MNT PLUG CHAMP DOCKING
Stock: 1,070 Can Ship Immediately
Pricing (USD)
1: $3.49
10: $3.14
25: $2.85
100: $2.71
PS: These are very small connection points, so you need to have special soldering equipment (sub-mm tips).
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
SoundSurfer said:
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea. I like it a lot.
I ordered a couple of these ACT4060 items:
ACT4060A SOP-8 ACT4060 Wide Input 2A Step Down
The idea is to take 15V from the tablet or charger and step down to 5V to power a USB hub, similar the the ASUS USB host device (same part).
I also thought to add a 5.5mm female barrel socket for charging with a 15V power supply, like these: Power Supply DC 15V
Note: Many other power supply are available from 12V-15V with 5.5mm barrel plug.
---------- Post added at 03:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 PM ----------
w04g005 said:
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great, thanks!
I do not think the HDMI output is on the 40 pin cable, but I could be wrong. There is audio available, because it is on the TF101 Desktop Stand.
Any links to an infrared control?
Bob Smith42 said:
Any links to an infrared control?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry,
i have no link for infrared control. I only have seen the video with infrared remote from the tablet s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbYzckPXJ2Q&feature=player_embedded
But we can try to combine a standard usb infrared adapter with the 40-pin connector. Maybe it doesn't work because of the lack of drivers (if they couldn't get extracted from the sony tablet). But i have to say that i'm neither a electronic technician nor a programmer. Only wanted to suggest my wishes ;-)
Maybe this can help:
http://www.irdroid.com/
greetings
Can you make a regular USB cable with this connector ?
question: do you have the pin out of the 40-pin connector?
w04g005 said:
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
fisha21 said:
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
i think i will buy these to replace my harmony one.
greetings
Matthias
how about a mini usb cord? So I could plug my DSLR camera into it and download the pictures on the fly?..or even a micro to plug the phone in...but if it was a USB hub, it would work as well..just a longer cord.
w04g005 said:
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
w04g005 said:
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
I thought this thread would be more popular. If the plug didn't cost so much to ship to my country I'd be building a wall charger with a long lead and a car charger.
Sent from my u8800 using XDA App
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
PatrickVogeli said:
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally got my USB Host Kit for the TF, so I can work on the connector pin out. The USB Kit did not work (for me) on the dock 40 pin socket, so apparently there are differences between the Dock and Tablet 40 pin sockets.
Can anyone can confirm the USB Kit does/does not work on the dock 40 pin socket?
Thanks
fisha21 said:
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems many people like infra-red controls. Here is some pics of the I-Got-Control device for the iPod/iPad/iPhone.
There seems to be only a few lines connected to the Apple 30 pin connector. Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
I think this might be easily attached to the Asus USB Host or SD adapter.
Thanks!
a backpack style add-on for the TF would be neat...something that adds a battery/usb/etc at the cost of making it a bit fatter and maybe taller..
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
Any updates on this?
Amazed at how hard it is to find a 30-pin connector pinout, seems Apple tweaked it a bit as new generations came along.
This is the kind of thread I love to see, on Android+TF!
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
If I were to solder every connector point through a wire, would connecting the dock from the side through the 40 pin connector to the bottom slot of the TF give the same communication as if the TF is docked? Been wanting to "dock" the tablet without actually having them together.
Yeah, it would work, but instead of soldering better find connectors and a cable. I'm thinking of doing it to my USB adaptor (which is very badly done, completely loose).
Bob Smith42 said:
Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Isn't that available all over the net?
pinouts.ru /PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
Cheers!
-M
Xda member since 2007
EDIT 20130526:
Get the free app "Galaxy Dock Sound Redirector" this will switch the audio to the line-out depending on dock-triggers (desk or car dock).
No need to solder any stuff if you just want to use the Samsung Dock.
If I had come across this earlier, then the thread would not have started at all.
Added 20130527:
I got reports in other forums that some Samsung docks of the same type (EDD-D100) get their output with a Tab 2 7" or Tab 2 10.1" directly to the line-out with a standard 3 pin (headphone) 3.5mm jack connected.
If you happen to have such a dock and Tab 2, can you please report Serialnumber (Bottom of dock) and manufacturing date (on the cardbox of the dock) with your Tab 2 type (7" or 10.1")?
If you are also (or know) a technical guy, could you measure the electrical resistance between pin 13 (13th contact-slot from left looking from front) of the 30-pin jack which gets in to the Tablet and the outermost contact of the line-out (the one you see/reach best when looking in the line-out socket) - and also report it here?
For my (non working) dock it is 3.22kOhm - I suspect for the working ones it would be 4.2kOhm
-----
This was a lucky success finally - getting the audio out of the GT-P3110 via the 30 pin connector in the EDD-D100, so not using the top headset connector. Audio gets then out of the 3.5 mm socket in the EDD-D100 and connects to the home stereo (or where you want it). Let me report the result first - then some on the history of finding it.
Bottom line:
For direct 30-pin audio out see post #3, with dock see here:
you need a EDD-D100 Samsung Dock
you need a 4 pin 3.5mm audio connector
audio out is tip (1) - left, ring (2) - right, ring (3) - audio ground
mind this is NOT headset out, impedance is much higher but a stereo can well be connected.
pin 4 (mic.) requires a resistor (~1k) connected to pin 3 (audio ground)
voltage measured between pins 3+4 for "audio to dock" ranges from ~0.13V to ~0.37V with resistors from 450 to 1.65k
EDIT-2: Car dock resistor is from 3.3k to 4.8k
Alternate solution: replace the EDD-D100 internal resistor of 3.2k with another one of ~4.2k - then you could use any standard 3.5mm to cinch cable for audio connection. THIS is the way it should have been built right from the start!
Failing steps have been:
getting audio/video cables for P1000:
they just charge via USB
getting the original Samsung Dock EDD-D100WE (white)
syncs on PC, charges with original charger, gives you the "docked" signal, but NO AUDIO on the dock with a standard headset connected or a 3.5mm to cinch converter - audio stays on built in speakers (or headset on top socket).
checking the Samsung Dock with a friends GT-P3100 and original headset has once(!) routed audio via the dock, but then no more
I was complaining to Samsung that such an obvious purpose could not be done with their own devices but after an initial reply from a non-expert who completely misunderstood the problem - the next "expert" wanted to check back with other experts but then silence since weeks.
I could also not discover any special audio adapter which had to be connected to the dock for a home stereo connection and was about to return the dock to Amazon.
But then I remembered that I had another Samsung headset adapter with the older 4-pin layout (not the newer Apple-like as the latest Samsung devices have) - it is the "AARM040EBE". I gave it a try to connect to the dock and immediately it was silencing the device and has routed audio to the dock!
Sadly the pinout (pin 3+4) of the AARM040EBE is not connecting the ground of audio correctly - so you cannot use that straight away You could keep your finger on the botton (this shortcuts pins 3+4) but no listening pleasure this way...
Now some history on my faults and assumptions:
As I did not want to take either device apart, I just measured resistance (1.7k - 2.2k) between pins 3+4 and started making an adapter myself - which failed
EDIT-2: 1.7k is at the upper edge where it works
So I HAD TO disassemble the dock - which went quite well with enough patience in getting the sticky tape glued parts apart. This has finally revealed that pin 30 of the connector towards the device is connected with audio socket pin 3 (upper ring), the audio ground - and that pin 4 (sleeve) of the audio socket is connected to [EDIT: pin 13 (Accessory ID)] via 3.22k (the only component on the PBA). Pin 4 is the microphone connector, but I it also serves other purposes as you will see.
So what happens when you connect a standard 3.5 stereo plug is that you shortcut pins 3+4 and so there is no voltage drop possible between them. However it finally turns out that the voltage between pins 3 and 4 is the key to switch the audio.
[EDIT: its not only the voltage, see later]
EDIT-2: it IS the voltage only, some wrong speculations follow in gray:
My initial attempt to have just resistors create the voltage drop behind the pull-up resistor has left me clueless for while until I measured the voltage drop (not resistance) between pins 3 + 4 of the AARM040EBE in both ways. This has revealed that there is a Zener-Diode inside (1.7 V) which limits the voltage and if reverse connected (this is how it is connected to the Tab 2 as the pins 3+4 are reversed) then the diode is running in connected direction and has a voltage drop of ~650mV. To double check I have also opened the AARM040EBE and it proves like this.
OK - next try for an adapter with pins 3+4 and diode in connected mode from 4 to 3. Strange effect: the device goes in "Car Dock" mode - but audio stays on the speakers - no routing to the dock!
So what now... I then measured the voltage drop that the AARM040EBE was creating and saw it was not 650mV but just ~340mV. So the diode needed a parallel resistor to get voltage down and this way it finally works!
Epilog:
Altering the pinout for the AARM040EBE (3+4 reverse) will make the connector work with the GT-P3110 top socket (including microphone for Skype), but it also puts the Zener diode in other direction and the resulting voltage drop is then 1.2V - which again does nothing to the dock audio.
EDIT-2: if you put a parallel resistor to have resulting resistance at ~1k it should work for both purposes.
I have not tried anything with 30-pin cables directly yet - but it could work in the same way if you want to try out. At least I can use my Samsung Dock for the purpose I bought it for finally.
EDIT: As I noticed the initial assumption of a pull-up resistor would make no sense if the pin 4 would not be connected to anything that evaluates the voltages there. So I re-checked the wiring and I noticed that it is not pin 7+8 (V+), on the flex-cable pins 5,6,7 - but instead pin 13, on the flex cable pin 4. So what you measure between audio socket pins 3+4 is just the signal-forming entity, however the effective accessory detection happens at pin 13 (AID). So it DOES matter that the AID is not just voltage but something more.
Key to switching is the Accessory ID pin 13. This connects via 3.22k to the MIC-connector (pin 4 - sleeve) on the Samsung dock audio socket - but just to connect something to ground (pin 3) - not for a microphone.
As indicated in my original post this is a ~1k resistor (ok from 450 to 1.7k) from pin 4 (sleeve) to pin 3 (upper ring).
Need to understand how the device knows it is in the dock if nothing is connected to Accessory ID on pin 13. I suspect it is pin 14 (Accessory INT) being connected to ground (pin 15) on the PBA.
OK, riddle is solved - you can get the 30 pin audio with the following:
must connect pins 14 (Accessory INT) and 15 (Gnd) -> gets you "docked"
must connect pin 13 with ~4.2k (3.2k+1k; may vary from 3.7k to 4.8k) to 14+15 -> gets audio to pins 27 (L) and 28 (R)
EDIT: you should also have the audio-ground separate from power supply ground. So if you can manage this, then connect only Pin 30 to the shield of the audio cables (L+R).
If you like car-dock mode (audio stays on the device) use a resistor in the range of 6.5k to 8k.
Enjoy
So I did another adapter from a P-1000 cable I bought cheap on ebay. This adapter will not work straight away on the GT-P3110 as connectors are (slightly) different and the Accessory ID pull-down resistor has another value.
You will need one (SMD) resistor to replace the original one from pin 13 (in my adapter it was 12k but should be 3.7k to 5k) to ground and decent skill to disassemble and re-assemble the sockets. The changes to do are:
open the cable distributor and replace the 12k SMD (from pin 13 to ground) with ~4.5k
remove (unsolder) the yellow cinch for composite video - you do not need it for the GT-P3110. This gives you a free PBA connection you will need next step.
unsolder the audio ground (both L+R) from common ground with power-supply and solder to the former composite video cable contact on the PBA. The video connector will later change its position in the 30-pin jack to pin-30 (audio ground). This part is important or you will have noise in the audio when charging with a switching power supply.
Now to the 30 pin:
open the 30pin jack carefully
unsolder the dual (pins 15 + 16) ground
carefully pull the contacts from the plastic socket and re-insert one more left as pins 14 + 15. If you have them separate after the unsoldering of the cable, then you could only move pin 16 to pin 14 as well, of course. They come directly aside the pin 13 which stays where it is.
re-solder ground as before (now pins 14 + 15).
unsolder the former composite video (don't remember where it was)
carefully pull the contact from the socket and re-insert at pin 30 (audio ground)
re-solder as before (now on pin 30).
Re-glue or duct-tape-wrap the sockets - done.
Enjoy!
that's weird, the guy in this thread http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-electronics/1618926-android-7-tablet-install-c6.html said he got audio out thru the dock connector, just no mic input (which is why he did what he did).
That is very long thread... not sure which adapter he used for checking the mic input, but if the mic has the right resistance then you get the audio from the dock which is the finding I had published. You just don't get it with a standard 3 pin to cinch adapter or a regular headphone (without mic.) from the Samsung dock.
You also don't get it with the 30 pin adapters you can buy which are all for the P-1000.
I have searched very long all over Google before I bought the adapter for P-1000 which did not work, then bought the original dock, expecting it to work straight away - which again did not work - so finally I picked up the task to do it myself.
I was so upset that the original dock did not work and Samsung is not offering cables from dock to stereo. The GT-P31xx is the best selling small tablet and for sure I am not the only one who wants to use its great audio capability at least when it will retire in a year's time.
So I know it works for me exactly like this. I am curious to see some commercial offers for cables now that all details are public. You could also mod some of the cheaper docks.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
sorry for my english XD
I would like to know if there is any kernel to enable the audio and connect a usb dac FiiO e10
skulls1991 said:
sorry for my english XD
I would like to know if there is any kernel to enable the audio and connect a usb dac FiiO e10
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just guessing: you want the 30pin to have digital audio (in/out) via USB? You should ask this in the related kernel threads for the Galaxy Tab 2. I have so far not come across this feature for my devices.
Mind that the DAC in the GT-P31xx is very good (low noise) and you can tune max-volume in a simple way by manipulating \etc\default_gain.conf
If you keep the ground for power and audio separate you should also have no noise (generator) problems in your car.
tobbbie said:
Just guessing: you want the 30pin to have digital audio (in/out) via USB? You should ask this in the related kernel threads for the Galaxy Tab 2. I have so far not come across this feature for my devices.
Mind that the DAC in the GT-P31xx is very good (low noise) and you can tune max-volume in a simple way by manipulating \etc\default_gain.conf
If you keep the ground for power and audio separate you should also have no noise (generator) problems in your car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How wold one modify that default_gain file to increase the max volume coming from the headphones?
Quite obvious (google for it), but mind to set file permissions like before. Max value is 63 and you need to reboot to get the increased output.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
So I'm trying to use the 30-pin cable original p3110, you can upload any pictures?
tobbbie said:
Quite obvious (google for it), but mind to set file permissions like before. Max value is 63 and you need to reboot to get the increased output.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
could you check this and see if there's anything I missed?
skulls1991 said:
So I'm trying to use the 30-pin cable original p3110, you can upload any pictures?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You cannot use the original cable for audio out. You should get a cable for p1000 as told. For USB you need a USB Host adapter and then check if any USB Audio device would be recognized.
If you should want to connect the device as a flash-drive to a USB car stereo then this would not work as it cannot be connected in MSC mode. It just supports MTP and PTP protocols.
So first tell what you actually want to achieve.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
daniel644 said:
could you check this and see if there's anything I missed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you check if it works? You cannot break anything, just rename the original file to keep it. You have to be root to change the file on the system partition, but I guess you know that already.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
tobbbie said:
Did you check if it works? You cannot break anything, just rename the original file to keep it. You have to be root to change the file on the system partition, but I guess you know that already.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it definitely works, I have to keep the volume on the cars headunit down like 5-6 numbers below where I used to keep it at, I'm thinking I may go back and instead of 63 use like 61, there's just so many spots in it that I just don't know whether I should bump them up or leave them alone.
daniel644 said:
Yeah, it definitely works, I have to keep the volume on the cars headunit down like 5-6 numbers below where I used to keep it at, I'm thinking I may go back and instead of 63 use like 61, there's just so many spots in it that I just don't know whether I should bump them up or leave them alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why get lower in the conf file if you can regulate via the volume buttons out on the tab? Just don't set it to max volume there. Having max power from conf file permits also to use less efficient headphones.
Do not touch any other settings in the conf file, except maybe also the line out which is used for the 30 pin audio out.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
tobbbie said:
Why get lower in the conf file if you can regulate via the volume buttons out on the tab? Just don't set it to max volume there. Having max power from conf file permits also to use less efficient headphones.
Do not touch any other settings in the conf file, except maybe also the line out which is used for the 30 pin audio out.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I primarily use my tablet to run audio out to my cars Head Unit so it's just easier for me to be able to blindly turn the volume on the Tab all the way up so regulating the tablets max via this file makes more sense to me then turning it up all the way then back down one notch on the volume buttons.
daniel644 said:
I primarily use my tablet to run audio out to my cars Head Unit so it's just easier for me to be able to blindly turn the volume on the Tab all the way up so regulating the tablets max via this file makes more sense to me then turning it up all the way then back down one notch on the volume buttons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't you do BT Audio streamimg? I find it much more convenient than hooking the device via headset out. It also keeps a separate volume level for this.
Do you get any noise when charging and having the tablet hooked?
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
I need a cable that charges the tab and give me the 2 RCA to connect to the amplifier
tobbbie said:
Can't you do BT Audio streamimg? I find it much more convenient than hooking the device via headset out. It also keeps a separate volume level for this.
Do you get any noise when charging and having the tablet hooked?
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The bluetooth in my stereo doesn't support audio streaming, it only does the basic handsfree stuff so that's not an option for me, also I just prefer wired anyway. Can't comment on any noise as I haven't set up anything to charge the tablet while it's in the car yet, since this is the only thing I use my tab 2 for I can go about a month between charges so I don't really see the point to put the money into that aspect of the build yet.
Hi,
I noticed that my SUUNTO power clip fits perfectly on the TS also using 4 connecting point. However I do not know how the wiring of the TS is and how it then should be changed on the clip. I think it would be much more practical to use a modified power clip vs the Omate cradle (obviously need to buy an additional SUUNTO power clip to modify). Any ideas?
Pics? Google brings me to this thread, LOL.
A charger is just 5V and 0V, so it will be simple to modify (if it needs modifying).
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
http://www.backcountry.com/suunto-ambit-power-cable-strap
found on google
You sure that's the right one? It doesn't look like it will fit my TS
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
Here some pictures
OK, that looks pretty funky. Yeah I think it would work. If it doesn't, it would be easy to modify
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
Best way to check is to hook the cable to a charger and check the metal points with a multimeter and do the same thing for the cradle.
Good idea. OP let us know
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
Wow can´t wait to hear if it works out for you...
Suunto - warning!!
Joost39 said:
Wow can´t wait to hear if it works out for you...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK - I too was thinking the SUUNTO lead would be a good extra addition, so ordered one off Fleabay.
I used a standard voltmeter to check the connections on the TS cradle (pics will come).
With the clam shell opened to the left, so the 4 contact pins are on the right, the voltages (top to bottom) are: GND, +2.00V, +2.57V, +5V. [This is plugged into a wall plug charger, not PC)
Using the meter on the SUUNTO lead, oriented to reflect the same top to bottom pinout (for me the lead comes out of the right of the plug, and SUUNTO is upside down),
then THE GND AND +5V ARE REVERSED, SO THIS WOULD PROBABLY SHORT THE TS BATTERY/DAMAGE THE WATCH.
Im in the process of hacking the cable, just by cutting open and switching the cables, but initial feedback doesn't show the that the TS is charging.
[I have only swapped GND and 5V, so wonder if the other lower voltages are needed]
I do also see that the SUUNTO clamp pins and TS pads don't line up exactly, and the clamp doesn't hold on very well to the watch....
More updates later.
Thanks for sharing this info.
I am currently waiting on the spare SUUNTO cable to arrive to complete the MOD with an USB connector. I agree the SUUNTO clamp is not fixed as tight on the TS as to my Ambit2 watch but it does work and I think it still would be easier to use vs the Omate cradle. Just hope it will charge with the cable.....
roubroeks said:
Thanks for sharing this info.
I am currently waiting on the spare SUUNTO cable to arrive to complete the MOD with an USB connector. I agree the SUUNTO clamp is not fixed as tight on the TS as to my Ambit2 watch but it does work and I think it still would be easier to use vs the Omate cradle. Just hope it will charge with the cable.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wasn't this sort of clip what the TS was going to use originally before they moved to the cradle? I don't mind the cradle I just use it with my wireless charger...
Small update: I reversed to polarity of SUUNTO clip by changing the USB connector to match the 5V +/- of the TS cradle (pin 1 and 4); however the TS does not charge. I assume there is a bit more to it to match the SUUNTO charger cable with the cradle and get TS to charge (I am measuring different resistance in clip and cradle from pin 2 and 3). But unfortunately I am more of a desk jockey and not really technically savvy :silly:
Maybe somebody has more info on the cradle circuit and is able to built the right charger clip. For now the non-ergonomic cradle is the only option for me.
Thanks for your research, I've been waiting for your update.
It wouldn't be complicated to set up a rig to mimic the charger but its more hassle than I can be bothered with and it wouldn't help anyone else because each person would have to buy the Suunto clip and modify it themselves.
If you're going to butcher a piece of hardware, a simpler solution would be to go to poundland and buy a large hair clip and fix it to your cradle, so you can sit the watch in it and clamp it in place.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
Agree LeighR. Well maybe Omate will re-design the cradle one day to make it more ergonomic so one can eg use the buttons while charging..... but I guess by then we will be buying our next gen wrist-phones with the major manufacturers.
It is a simple thing to do to drill a couple of small holes in the side of the cradle so you can press the buttons with a toothpick. I did that to mine back in February and the cradle is still fine. Of course, be careful and use a small bit, but its not rocket science.
Expecting Omate to redesign the cradle borders on foolishness, in my opinion. After all, if they had cared even a little they could have driiled the holes themselves during manufacturing. They could even have extended the buttons to the outside of the case, too, but they did not.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
trent999 said:
It is a simple thing to do to drill a couple of small holes in the side of the cradle so you can press the buttons with a toothpick. I did that to mine back in February and the cradle is still fine. Of course, be careful and use a small bit, but its not rocket science.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've drilled holes in mine but it's a crap solution. Actually, I barely use the buttons but the cradle also makes it a pain to use pull down/up menus.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
This kinda works. Its not great but its cheap - £1 for 6 from pound land
Maybe a rubber band would be better
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
can anyone confirm these universal chargers would be working if we connect it to the right pin? i am confused whichone to connect..
THESE:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41HJAHGXWaL._SY300_.jpg
http://images.shopmadeinchina.com/p...e-Lithium-Battery-Charger-USB_5404046.bak.jpg
CPGOD said:
OK - I too was thinking the SUUNTO lead would be a good extra addition, so ordered one off Fleabay.
I used a standard voltmeter to check the connections on the TS cradle (pics will come).
With the clam shell opened to the left, so the 4 contact pins are on the right, the voltages (top to bottom) are: GND, +2.00V, +2.57V, +5V. [This is plugged into a wall plug charger, not PC)
Using the meter on the SUUNTO lead, oriented to reflect the same top to bottom pinout (for me the lead comes out of the right of the plug, and SUUNTO is upside down),
then THE GND AND +5V ARE REVERSED, SO THIS WOULD PROBABLY SHORT THE TS BATTERY/DAMAGE THE WATCH.
Im in the process of hacking the cable, just by cutting open and switching the cables, but initial feedback doesn't show the that the TS is charging.
[I have only swapped GND and 5V, so wonder if the other lower voltages are needed]
I do also see that the SUUNTO clamp pins and TS pads don't line up exactly, and the clamp doesn't hold on very well to the watch....
More updates later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
chiwah said:
can anyone confirm these universal chargers would be working if we connect it to the right pin? i am confused whichone to connect..
THESE:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41HJAHGXWaL._SY300_.jpg
http://images.shopmadeinchina.com/p...e-Lithium-Battery-Charger-USB_5404046.bak.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ignore any of my reference to needing to supply power to the middle two pins - I was wrong.
I have now got the SUUNTO clip working with just 0V and +5V to the outside pins - its all about lining them up properly!
In some cars, such as mine, when I start the engine, ACC power is cut to the HU. So, if I am sitting in the car with the HU on and engine off, when I then start the engine, power is briefly interrupted to the HU. Sometimes this can cause issues with Android. It can also restart the boot sequence if the HU hadn't fully booted. So I have been considering this mod...
dsa8310 said:
Since the ignition wire gives a very weak signal to the HU, using a diode and a capacitor at the ignition entry of the HU should prevent the reset without any Xposed based module.
It works for my mirror with compass.
(the diode has one end connected to the ignition wire; the capacitor has one end connected to ground; the other two ends are connected to the ignition entry of the HU - the red wire(?))
Just use a so called solid/polymer capacitor (not with liquid electrolyte!) which works below freezing temperatures - or otherwise rated up to -40 degrees Celsius.
Code:
HU IGN
IGN o-------i>|-------X------i]-------o GND
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dsa8310 said:
Any (Sillicium) diode would do, finding the appropriate capacitor value, only by testing. If it's too big, then the normal powering off is delayed objectionably, while if too small, it won't delay enough (to cover for those few seconds while the engine starter is working). You would also need a capacitor that still works at below freezing temperatures (solid, tantalum).
Just connect the diode between your ACC/IGN car (or CAN bus adapter) wire and the HU IGN entry, and the capacitor between the same HU entry and ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
clearchris said:
I reccommend against tantalum caps unless you really know what you are doing as tantalum caps failure mode is flames. :fingers-crossed:
Solid polymer organic caps, though harder to find, or low temp rated electrolytics (they exist) are what i would go with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dsa8310 said:
Read my lips:
Connect a diode (Si) between the car's ACC wire and the HU's ACC entry. If the HU does not start then reverse the diode.
Connect a capacitor between the HU's ACC entry and ground. Choose a capacitor able to function below freezing temperatures. If capacitance is too big, the HU will remain on too long after stopping the car engine. Conversely, if it's too small, the starter will reset the HU as before. Start with a 100uF capacitor and find the optimal value for your car.
If unhappy with this hardware solution, delve into the Xposed framework based software solutions (mtc... xposed... something).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
680uF & 1,000uF capacitors have been suggested.
But then I saw mention of some prebuilt timer PCBs and there were some links to listings on eBay USA. Has anyone got any links to tried and tested devices sold through UK based sellers that are relatively simple for a non-electronics expert to configure?
What are your exact problems with your HU?
I had the same issues with those cheap USB plugs for the cigarette lighter.
5V output is not stable during power on, the connected usb harddrive does a reset.
I took a look at the switched 12V supply. In my case when powering on the switched power supply is pulled down to 0V for about 2seconds.
That's nothing you can solve with a capacitor. Step 1 was to use a diode with resitor capacitor combination to switch a relay.
Step 2 was to use a different 5V supply which is stable down to 6V.
It's not a major problem. I just don't like power being interrupted when starting the engine. This can interrupt the boot process, causing a slight delay. It can also cause an error message when booted, some sort of system app / service doesn't like it. Also, I don't think it's good for device longevity having its power suddenly cut and reapplied in quick succession. So I wanna fit a capacitor to keep the ACC power live to the HU when starting the engine.
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi CARRisma, just use a capacitor rated above 12v, 16v would be fine, keep in mind that xxV referes to the maximun volta. the capacitor can handle, the other value ( µF, F...) is the "charge" it can hold. Very important, if you use electrolytic capacitor pay attention to the polarity (- to GND and + to POSITIVE), otherwhise it could EXPLODE
A picture (video) is worth a thousand words
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KX5HIE7Ddk
I'm going to have to do this too. Every time I start my car w/ the unit already booted up it starts to shut down and it says exchange service has crashed or something similar. Are you just using one cap and without a diode? Could you tell me what you go with?
Dave
Yes, that's the problem I have, some sort of Google service crashes. I plan to use a diode too.
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't want a 12 v one - "12 volts" in a car is actually closer to 13.5 v. I'd get a 25 v one. You can use one which is rated for more voltage within reason (e.g. don't go for a 250 v one), it's just that as the voltage rating increases so does the size and cost.
so are you guys going to use a 1 Farad 16v cap? Unless my math is wrong but that is HUGE.
Dave
Pass, I haven't got that far yet and electronics isn't my strong point.
Or based on size constraints i'm thinking maybe wiring three 5.5V 1.5F in series to get me to about 16.5V .5F. That'd give me about a second and a half of capacity down to 10V. You guys think that'd be acceptable for this instance?
Maybe try one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PD65UGA
http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/timer-c-68/multifunctional-3v24v-time-delay-relay-timer-p-192.html
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
For packaging reasons I think I may go with this instead. Three of these will put me at 16.2V and 1.68F and I'd have ~5 seconds of runtime in a manageable package about 1.25" square. Problem is I have to buy 100 of these things although their 100qty is cheaper than most 5qty. Opinions?
Or maybe these as they're a bit cheaper and smaller
TT_Vert said:
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that a response to the timing I posted? If so this timer is programmable so if you want it to smooth out a drop in acc it will do that. You simply set its delay longer that you expect the drop for the cranking. Obviously, you can also use it for longer delays if you want your unit to be powered for a period of time after you turn off the car. Both short and long delays will smooth out your issue.
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
The ignition wire is only a signal, power is drawn from a different wire. Maybe a couple of mA? So, a few mF might do.
You're right. I thought it was more than a signal. it is only drawing 1ma. Excellent, looks like a 35v 1000μF should do nicely.
TT_Vert said:
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think perhaps you misunderstand how this works. If you configure the timer delay for 30 seconds it solves your problem. If you configure it for 10 seconds it probably solves your problem. You don't need to know specifically how long because if you set it at something like 30 and your cranking lasts 3 seconds it still works because the cut of acc triggers the timer and the power stays on for 30 seconds. 3 seconds later the power turns on and the timer stops because you have power again.
Thanks, I'll look further into this.
Dave
Went ahead and used a 470μF cap today w/ a 1A rectifier diode and it works great. W/O the diode i only got about 1/2 a second of capacity. with the diode I get over 7 seconds. It seems the HU will stay on when the acc. is all the way down to ~6.5v which surprised me.
Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
ale_kons said:
Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
would like to know as well
in all devices that i tested at home i found you need at least a power supply of 12V 15amps.
Power supply i use here
As for connecting the unit Red and yellow wire to +
and black to -
best way is to get a Universal Male ISO Radio Wiring Harness
some units use a small thin red wire now just for signal.
your devices should have the a wiring schematic either glued to the case or in the instructions book.
make sure the unit is properly fused and get spare fuses before attempting the above.
I use a small sla 12v battery from wheel chairs and power-wheels. Then i have a couple of spare harnesses from ebay. The harnesses on these radios are generic and can be had for about $4 USD like this one Link
Hello,
I have the following HA:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IPS-4GB-RAM-Android-8-0-Octa-Core-Multimedia-DVD-Player-GPS-Navi-Stereo-Radio-for/32966326918.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dmQoxfP
I would like to configure this HA in house, my question is that it is possible to connect to a PC power supply? If yes, how?
Thanks in advance,
@neosnd On my unit I had a thick yellow (batt +12v) and thick black (ground). Thin red (Acc +) which is your ignition feed (so unit has a constant 12v on the yellow, red 12v+ turns the unit on)
On a computer PSU (search ATX pinout) like this: http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF - you want to find a 12v (pin 11 or 12 - Yellow 12v+), ground (any "com" - pin 3,5,7 but in our case easier to use 24 (near 11/12)) and for our purposes you can just twist the red acc+ into the 12v power (yellow) so the unit is always on. If not just use one of the spare 12v. then all we need to do is short the "PSU on" (Pin 16) to any ground (pin 16 to 17 with a paperclip if you want to mcguyver it like I do) - then power switch on computer PSU turns the power on and off.
Check to see if your unit has a pinout on top, mine had a sticker saying which was the 12v, ground etc which I worked this out from. If not, google your car stereo pinout, see where the 12v, ground and acc+ feeds are and mirror them onto the plug to your unit.
Hope this helps!