Help needed - replacing Star Trek LCD - HTC Startrek

I am looking for some help/instructions as to how to do this. Has any one done this before? I am wondering if this would be easy or difficult.
Thanks in advance.
JSenthil

Here is information how to disassemble StarTrek http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=313066
Replacing is very easy, You only need to unscrew front cover. Few screws and lift front cover(first the plastic part, then more screws and metal part), unscrew screen and disconnect it. The front metal part sometimes doesn't lift but You'll figure out how to do it. And make sure you clean everything because dust always gets on the screens. Good luck.

Hi Kucyk,
Thank you for the link and explaining how to do it. This is exactly what I need. I appreciate it.
Thanks,
JSenthil

Related

Stylus Broken In Phone

Hey guys and girls. I have a 8525 and the tip of the stylus broke off my phone while I was trying to remove it. Now the stylus is stuck in the phone and I need assistance in removing it without opening the phone.
Remember only the plastc tip on the end broke off. I tried tweezers but they were too large. Suggestions please.
Try an unfolded paperclip. If you can see the tip but still can't get it out, I would try some superglue on the end of the paperclip and put it on the tip until it sets...
Rif_Luna said:
Try an unfolded paperclip. If you can see the tip but still can't get it out, I would try some superglue on the end of the paperclip and put it on the tip until it sets...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that a spot of superglue on the end of something is probably the way. Though personally I'd take the back off to remove it. I think a paperclip might be too thin and a bit hit or miss - but if you are not short of time then maybe you can spend the day fishing for it!!.
Just so we know where it is lodged - it is stuck in the white clip in these pictures (taken from another thread with a slightly different purpose).
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1206800&postcount=35
One thing you MUST avoid if you use a spot of superglue on a rod of some sort is hitting the rubber block on the way up the silo. If you touch that with superglue it will stick fast and will likely unstick the block if you try to pull it out again. If you use this technique it would be VITAL to keep the rod you are inserting against the back side of the slot to avoid hitting the rubber block.
Mike
Mike
Okay guys. Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know my results. Also only the tip of the stylus broke so I don't have to worry about the rubber pad. In fact, the rubber pad is what is keeping the stylus in the phone because I could never get a good enough grip to get past it.
Success!
What's up fellas? I have finally went to work and got the stylus removed from my phone. I used a very small screwdriver to slowly pull it out and did not need crazy glue, a safety clip or to take the phone apart.
Thanks for all the assistance. I have included a picture of the stylus so you can see where it broke. The picture is with it extended, but remember it was compact when it was in the phone.
Peace, love and sex!
addicus said:
What's up fellas? I have finally went to work and got the stylus removed from my phone. I used a very small screwdriver to slowly pull it out and did not need crazy glue, a safety clip or to take the phone apart.
Thanks for all the assistance. I have included a picture of the stylus so you can see where it broke. The picture is with it extended, but remember it was compact when it was in the phone.
Peace, love and sex!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done!
.... and I had misunderstood! I thought it was just the little greyish pointing tip that was stuck in the slot. Obviously the part that came off was at the opposite end. Not that it matters now
Mike
Mine broke like that on my old wizard, and the broken off plastic was still inside the stylus body, so there was nothing to grip. It was still in warranty, and I didnt want to have to send it off, so I had to drill into the stylus, and then stuck a small screwdriver through the hole and worked it out.
jez83uk said:
Mine broke like that on my old wizard, and the broken off plastic was still inside the stylus body, so there was nothing to grip. It was still in warranty, and I didnt want to have to send it off, so I had to drill into the stylus, and then stuck a small screwdriver through the hole and worked it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finding a drill long and skinny enough to accomplish that must have been difficult. Granted I also have a Wizard (8125) and the stylus opening is slightly more accessible. I think that is a great option if it occurs again.
this happened to me on the same exact phone.. I used a paperclip and a lighter.. I heated up the paperclip with the lighter then pushed it into the plastic that was left in the broken end in the phone.. waited a few moments for the paperclip to cool down then simply pulled it out.
worked great.
addicus said:
What's up fellas? I have finally went to work and got the stylus removed from my phone. I used a very small screwdriver to slowly pull it out and did not need crazy glue, a safety clip or to take the phone apart.
Thanks for all the assistance. I have included a picture of the stylus so you can see where it broke. The picture is with it extended, but remember it was compact when it was in the phone.
Peace, love and sex!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well i guess it a issue ..8525 so i found easy way a toothpick fits righ in and conforms to the shape...

HTC Topaz disassembly guide

Hi, is there any chance to get Topaz disassembly guide?
THX
Edit: Dont need it anymore, I have done it, not difficult at all (similar to Nokia phones). HTC made Topaz very easy to disassembly.
I was cleaning part between digitizer and LCD from dust with antistaic brush and compressed air.
There are just 3 connectors to disconnect mainboard (digitizer, phone receiver and LCD), to get to the LCD. No coaxial cables to connect GPS and bluetooth antenna (all just by touch connectors to the black plastic top back part), Chipset is covered by metal plate, cant see it.
LCD: S/N: 1EJV093Q000069
P/N: 60H00209-00M S508
Can I request you get some high res photos of the PCB/LCD and/or record the ic part numbers while you've got it apart? It would be really useful to know for Linux/Android development.
Can you post what kind of gps chipset is buildin ?
Thanks in advance
Daniel
Thanks for the photos! Would you be able to post a higher res version of the 3rd one or simply scribe what is written on the back of the LCD. I'm hoping the serial number might give an indication of the chipset used in the LCD.
cheers!tsy
So you can sure tell us if the front frame is really metal or plastic ?
Its metal body iside of plastic housing.
Great job !
Thanx
some instructions or tips of how you disassembled it would be nice
i unscrewed my diamond2, and i cannot find a way to disassemble it..
help!
Hi
Nice work and photos.
One problem that has been reported, and I assume it was something you suffered from, is dust entering through the volume rocker and finding it's way onto the LCD display.
This seems rather an oversight by HTC as usually the LCD panel would have some form of seal or bezel (sticky or foam) to stop dust. Does the LCD panel have anything like this at all?
Regards
Phil
i found a htc service manual for diamond 2 that was leaked
not sure if i can post it here..
it explains how to disassemble the device
EDIT: I am so sorry, the leaked document is the user manual, it is incorrectly posted as the service manual in many sites. sorry
post it! what's the worst they can do... tell you to remove it?
PhilipL said:
Hi
Nice work and photos.
One problem that has been reported, and I assume it was something you suffered from, is dust entering through the volume rocker and finding it's way onto the LCD display.
This seems rather an oversight by HTC as usually the LCD panel would have some form of seal or bezel (sticky or foam) to stop dust. Does the LCD panel have anything like this at all?
Regards
Phil
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=520795&highlight=solution%21%21%21
Sticky? New Thread? & Help
I think we either need to sticky this, or make a new thread that encompasses all disassembly / dust leak information about the topaz.
I still cannot disassemble my device, i wish someone could help :/
Disassembling the Diamond 2 is really simple.
Remove the 4 T5 screws at the four corner
Remove the small plastic cover below the battery (might be optional)
Pop the main plastic body off the face piece (I use a really small flat screw driver) Starting from the top of the device
Remove the 3 connection then pop the main board
Remove the 4 hardware buttons then remove the LCD screen
I'll try to take some pictures when the new LCD screen arrives...
Guinea.Pig said:
Disassembling the Diamond 2 is really simple.
Remove the 4 T5 screws at the four corner
Remove the small plastic cover below the battery (might be optional)
Pop the main plastic body off the face piece (I use a really small flat screw driver) Starting from the top of the device
Remove the 3 connection then pop the main board
Remove the 4 hardware buttons then remove the LCD screen
I'll try to take some pictures when the new LCD screen arrives...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the steps. I just yesterday disassembled my TD2, but didn't dare remove the connections on the mainboard. The one on top left (see your pic mainboard.jpg) is no issue, but the other ones are tricky...or at least I thought they are. I couldn't figure out how to exactly remove those connectors. Could you maybe give some steps or info on how to remove those connectors? Thanks again for your help.
disassembly
thanks for the update . ill try and post pictures up when possible.
I am interested in this too, I have dropped mine a couple of times and am looking to replace the housing (although I have already been ripped off once by buying a repaired one on ebay).
So any idea where I can get a legitimate full housing and a guide to moving the guts from one to another?
Cheers,
Found this:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2/
Now I just need to find a genuine and complete housing.
Awesome
stormyuk said:
Found this:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2/
Now I just need to find a genuine and complete housing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your contribution stormyuk !
You can find housings on ebay, though most don't come with the buttons.
I bought one and its practically impossible to distinguish any differences,
Buy from kr-net on ebay its the seller that sold me my housing

Help removing Digitizer

So i dropped my phone and looks like i need a new digitizer. I have tear down the phone and the last thing i need to do is remove the digitizer but i have no idea on how to do it. Does anyone have any tips or links that show you how to remove it? I've seen this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8u5Wa3Odak but it doesn't show how to remove the digitizer. Any help would be really appreciated
Painkiller006 said:
So i dropped my phone and looks like i need a new digitizer. I have tear down the phone and the last thing i need to do is remove the digitizer but i have no idea on how to do it. Does anyone have any tips or links that show you how to remove it? I've seen this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8u5Wa3Odak but it doesn't show how to remove the digitizer. Any help would be really appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the end it shows you to heat up the digitizer to losen the adhesive that is holding it in place all around the edge. After that, slowly pry around. Do it really slowly though and let it work itself off, and don't use a sharp object because it will damage the sensitivity of the digitizer. Really patience is key. Don't rush it like I tried to the first time also be careful of the lcd underneath.
Just to reiterate what was already said, pry very gently, don't stick whatever pry tool you are using too far into the device, the LCD below will crack so easily. I did it when I did mine. Have patience, take a lot of time slowly working it off the adhesive little bit by little bit. There isn't any magic trick to this, it takes a lot of time and practice.

Screen Removal Tools?

So my phone fell...long story short the glass digitizer needs to be replaced. So I ordered a new one along with some 2mm adhesive. I have the right screw drivers and torx drivers so I am not worried about that. I just don't have the right prying tools. Is there anything else I may be able to use to carefully pry the screen from the adhesive throughout the process?
Has anyone every replaced the glass here?
Input would be greatly appreciated!
996.
996 said:
So my phone fell...long story short the glass digitizer needs to be replaced. So I ordered a new one along with some 2mm adhesive. I have the right screw drivers and torx drivers so I am not worried about that. I just don't have the right prying tools. Is there anything else I may be able to use to carefully pry the screen from the adhesive throughout the process?
Has anyone every replaced the glass here?
Input would be greatly appreciated!
996.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
guitar pic worked the best for me. i bought the tool kit and the plastic tools broke. someone told me about the pic and i used it. worked great for prying.
996 said:
So my phone fell...long story short the glass digitizer needs to be replaced. So I ordered a new one along with some 2mm adhesive. I have the right screw drivers and torx drivers so I am not worried about that. I just don't have the right prying tools. Is there anything else I may be able to use to carefully pry the screen from the adhesive throughout the process?
Has anyone every replaced the glass here?
Input would be greatly appreciated!
996.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uncut Fingernails.

[Q] HTC Rezound - Digitizer replacement questions

Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!

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