Related
This is a topic which I don't really like to talk about, but I now want to take the approach to get it outa my mind: The backlight of my soft-key search button does not fully shut down. That is, if I let the phone sit until the lights of the soft-keys (home, menu, back- and search button) shut down, I still see a dimmed light behind my search button. It annoys me.. I know I'm a picky girl.
Is that a hardware failure or do you guys have that, too? I'm convinced it's NOT caused by my current ROM (running DisarmedToaster). Can you recommend an app which will test my phone for hardware failures?
I bought my EVO 3D with blood money and would not really like unrooting and putting the phone into original warranty state to go beg the company I bought it from for a replacement. Please help a desperate lady!
SecUpwN said:
This is a topic which I don't really like to talk about, but I now want to take the approach to get it outa my mind: The backlight of my soft-key search button does not fully shut down. That is, if I let the phone sit until the lights of the soft-keys (home, menu, back- and search button) shut down, I still see a dimmed light behind my search button. It annoys me.. I know I'm a picky girl.
Is that a hardware failure or do you guys have that, too? I'm convinced it's NOT caused by my current ROM (running DisarmedToaster). Can you recommend an app which will test my phone for hardware failures?
I bought my EVO 3D with blood money and would not really like unrooting and putting the phone into original warranty state to go beg the company I bought it from for a replacement. Please help a desperate lady!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine has done that since the day I bought it, although I bought mine used so I just dealt with it. It looks more like bleed from the backlight on the display but i'm not sure. It must be pretty common if we both have it.
richyrocket said:
Mine has done that since the day I bought it, although I bought mine used so I just dealt with it. It looks more like bleed from the backlight on the display but i'm not sure. It must be pretty common if we both have it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for stating this, exactly what I was talking about! Kind of a small release to hear I didn't buy faulty hardware. Do we have other readers here who can confirm that this behavior is normal?
I'll head out to the phone store today to double check. Still, does an app exist to check for hardware failures?
Yes no faulty equipment, it is normal on every single Evo.
( Don't ask for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh)
flashallthetime said:
Yes no faulty equipment, it is normal on every single Evo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You just saved my whole HTC experience. Thank you soo much! How come this is the case on every EVO? Isn't that something draining the battery?
No it is actually bleeding from the main screen, I guess there's a small gap between the search button and the screen
( Don't ask for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh)
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Jsparta26 said:
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use your phone in the dark. Watch until soft buttons stop glowing. See the light behind the search button?
Mine has it too.
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using xda app-developers app
Jsparta26 said:
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn the backlight of touch buttons off using kernel tuner and keep screen on, you will notice light behind search key.
Yeh, methinks it's standard in all our phones fixed mine when i was replacing my digitizer (put a bit of plastic behind the search key to stop the overspill)
dessolator666 said:
Yeh, methinks it's standard in all our phones fixed mine when i was replacing my digitizer (put a bit of plastic behind the search key to stop the overspill)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you void your warranty through opening it? How about the buttons responsiveness afterwards? If you provide a detailed HowTo, you'll get another +1. :thumbup:
SecUpwN said:
Did you void your warranty through opening it? How about the buttons responsiveness afterwards? If you provide a detailed HowTo, you'll get another +1. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeh, warranty gone after opening it.... though now that I think of it... there may be a way around that. Namely I replaced the entire digitizer so I needed to take it apart fully, however since all the connections and cables are at the top of the screen and the buttons are (obviously ) on the bottom you could lift the digitizer up from the bottom and fix it without messing with the screws in the back (the one that voids your warranty).
To actually do this you will need:
Heat gun(or decent hair drier) anything with 500w or above should be plenty
Some good double sided adhesive tape (probably won't be able to reuse the original one)
A case opener tool (to lift the digitizer)
A piece of plastic or anything else opaque and nonconductive
Procedure:
heat up all the edges of the digitizer evenly (don't cook them, just heat them up )
Using a case opener tool get in between the digitizer and the aluminium chassis starting at the bottom and work your way up to the top
When the bottom and sides are free gently lift the digitizer with the top as a hinge point heating it up if necessary.
Ta da! You can see the inner workings of the buttons
Notice that the buttons have pieces of transparent plastic leading light from the LEDs to the actual surface the light overspill happens around the search button so I put a tiny piece of plastic around it (there are probably more elegant ways around this... but I'm not that elegant to begin with so this worked just fine.
Cut out thin strips of tape and put them on the edges of the digitizer where the old adhesive was (or reuse the old adhesive if you can)
Close up the phone and there you have it... your warranty should still be valid... tho if any1 opens the phone up they will probably notice the extra piece of plastic (or whatever you used)
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
dessolator666 said:
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would actually be the coolest contribution I've seen in a ling time! Are you really willing to do that for our EVO community? If you did, you'd be our king.
Don't worry, it's on every EVO 3D. From GSM to CDMA.
The light bleed is from the screen back light. It does give the phone a cheap feel sometimes, but it's a common problem.
It's not as prevalent on cm10 with inverted gapps
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
flashallthetime said:
It's not as prevalent on cm10 with inverted gapps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How come?
SecUpwN said:
How come?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Inverted gapps has black backgrounds so the screen bleeding is reduced
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
---------- Post added at 10:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ----------
I can drastically reduce screen brightness which helps, there's still some bleeding
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
dessolator666 said:
Yeh, warranty gone after opening it.... though now that I think of it... there may be a way around that. Namely I replaced the entire digitizer so I needed to take it apart fully, however since all the connections and cables are at the top of the screen and the buttons are (obviously ) on the bottom you could lift the digitizer up from the bottom and fix it without messing with the screws in the back (the one that voids your warranty).
To actually do this you will need:
Heat gun(or decent hair drier) anything with 500w or above should be plenty
Some good double sided adhesive tape (probably won't be able to reuse the original one)
A case opener tool (to lift the digitizer)
A piece of plastic or anything else opaque and nonconductive
Procedure:
heat up all the edges of the digitizer evenly (don't cook them, just heat them up )
Using a case opener tool get in between the digitizer and the aluminium chassis starting at the bottom and work your way up to the top
When the bottom and sides are free gently lift the digitizer with the top as a hinge point heating it up if necessary.
Ta da! You can see the inner workings of the buttons
Notice that the buttons have pieces of transparent plastic leading light from the LEDs to the actual surface the light overspill happens around the search button so I put a tiny piece of plastic around it (there are probably more elegant ways around this... but I'm not that elegant to begin with so this worked just fine.
Cut out thin strips of tape and put them on the edges of the digitizer where the old adhesive was (or reuse the old adhesive if you can)
Close up the phone and there you have it... your warranty should still be valid... tho if any1 opens the phone up they will probably notice the extra piece of plastic (or whatever you used)
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe it can be done without opening the back. If I'm not mistaken, that's where the connector is and it can't be accessed from the front. I could be wrong though
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
HermanV0929 said:
I don't believe it can be done without opening the back. If I'm not mistaken, that's where the connector is and it can't be accessed from the front. I could be wrong though
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sure it can be done... because you have to do pretty much exactly that when replacing the LCD or digitizer
Hello, my friend recently dropped her S3 from a very low height and the touch screen no longer responds and now looks like this
"attached picture"
I dont want to take apart the phone unless it is a possibility that it is just a loose connector. If it for sure needs a LCD replacement, I might as well send it off to samsung as it would cost the same for the part anyways and leave the phone a virgin.
Thanks for any input!!
not a loose connector, send it in
Hello guys i need help from you really need help..
Soo here is problem my touch doesnt work but display work perfectly but touch dosnt respond when i installed windows mobile 6.5 from android.
I tried factory reset,restoring Official Rom but nothing can fix my touch not respond.
WHEN I GO TO BOOTLOADER OR what is that with 4 colors (Volume - key + Red call button) there is not showed any MicroP(touch)
Just this is showed in 4 color menu.
PB81*** SS-BC
SPL-1.42.0000 XE
MicroP(LED) 0x05
Nothing else what is wrong please i need your help please ? ? ? ?
First off try a new original ROM for your HD2 & flash complete spl rom & radio & see what result is.
If same would expect hardware & digitizer replacement needed, digitizer failure very common but normally still seen in bootloader but have seen this on an already replaced digitizer that went bad & needed replacing a second time.
Those android roms tend to cook the HD2 & heat cycles is main cause of all faults really.
Heloo
Mister B said:
First off try a new original ROM for your HD2 & flash complete spl rom & radio & see what result is.
If same would expect hardware & digitizer replacement needed, digitizer failure very common but normally still seen in bootloader but have seen this on an already replaced digitizer that went bad & needed replacing a second time.
Those android roms tend to cook the HD2 & heat cycles is main cause of all faults really.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My friend sayed that he was deleted some System touch folder and i need to install some TOUCH DRIVERS ? What the hell is that ? i never heard about driver for touch ? any suggest aniway i buyed this phone from my friend and it camed without system he sayed that he delted from sd card and everything was worked ?
As my previous post:
Flash an original ROM for your type of HD2 & test, if the same I would suspect digitizer.
Check under battery cover & see if original void sticker still on screw heads as if not it been played with before ... If so worth opening device CAREFULLY and check digitizer ribbon connection & lcd ribbon to mainboard connection & if the seem ok & same issue present after reseating conectors, a new digitizer needs be tested on it.
My money is on hardware of either bad previous repair work or new fault in digitizer assembly & your friend being a plonker ...
HD2 Wiki has ROM links and all info you need to get started on testing/repairing this, read through it well & review guides if need open device as one wrong move will result in you holding pure electronic scrap ...
Heloo
shumailatariq said:
ithanks for help and good ideas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah thanks brto i will try to open, but void button is there so nobody oopened phone before
i will try to open it but i guess that i will change digitizer
htcsfragg said:
Yeah thanks brto i will try to open, but void button is there so nobody oopened phone before
i will try to open it but i guess that i will change digitizer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes expect digitizer needed, worth getting button board ribbon too as makes testing it before assembly really easy plus many people break the button board ribbon when stripping phone down.
Take care opening it, back cover comes off very easy once top clips released then work don right side, don't do much on left side & keep pry tool out of volume area & ONLY use plastic tool.
Razor blade, fishing line & hot air gun or hair dryer will help stripping but care & thought on what you are doing is a must, No need lift the entire flex board ribbon & volume button as can be done with this left in situ & just flex board loosened near connector to mainboard & makes easier in long run & neater final result.
Have a look at a few guides to get better idea on layout & delicate areas .
Help
Mister B said:
Yes expect digitizer needed, worth getting button board ribbon too as makes testing it before assembly really easy plus many people break the button board ribbon when stripping phone down.
Take care opening it, back cover comes off very easy once top clips released then work don right side, don't do much on left side & keep pry tool out of volume area & ONLY use plastic tool.
Razor blade, fishing line & hot air gun or hair dryer will help stripping but care & thought on what you are doing is a must, No need lift the entire flex board ribbon & volume button as can be done with this left in situ & just flex board loosened near connector to mainboard & makes easier in long run & neater final result.
Have a look at a few guides to get better idea on layout & delicate areas .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro how can i see if my digitizer is soldier or connector type ? ? i dont have MicroPtouch in my bootloader ? ? ?
i first wanna buy digitizer than i will open my phone but i need help to determine what is my digitizer ? ? ?
Mister B said:
Yes expect digitizer needed, worth getting button board ribbon too as makes testing it before assembly really easy plus many people break the button board ribbon when stripping phone down.
Take care opening it, back cover comes off very easy once top clips released then work don right side, don't do much on left side & keep pry tool out of volume area & ONLY use plastic tool.
Razor blade, fishing line & hot air gun or hair dryer will help stripping but care & thought on what you are doing is a must, No need lift the entire flex board ribbon & volume button as can be done with this left in situ & just flex board loosened near connector to mainboard & makes easier in long run & neater final result.
Have a look at a few guides to get better idea on layout & delicate areas .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro how can i see if my digitizer is soldier or connector type ? ? i dont have MicroPtouch in my bootloader ? ? ?
i first wanna buy digitizer than i will open my phone but i need help to determine what is my digitizer ? ? ?
htcsfragg said:
Bro how can i see if my digitizer is soldier or connector type ? ? i dont have MicroPtouch in my bootloader ? ? ?
i first wanna buy digitizer than i will open my phone but i need help to determine what is my digitizer ? ? ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With no MicroP (touch) in bootloader you will have to open it to find out by looking at hardware.
Best opening first as you may need more parts if not careful, try removing digitizer from LCD first because if you not good at it you will need LCD too then would need LCD & digitizer set rather than just digitizer for example ...
Hi all,
I've come across many post here asking the possibility of upgrading the eMMC that always answered that's it's not possible due to many pin underneath the BGA.
After several research I've come across a couple of YouTube video that show that it is possible to CHANGE the eMMC because it's not soldered to board, BUT GLUED.
Here is the video:
youtube.com/watch?v=F_Z1CKU0fpk
youtube.com/watch?v=dHPoWDQJdZg
It only took about 10 minute for these dude to change the eMMC.
I hope by sharing this information, I could make those who were have the ability to do this become creative and perhaps try to change the eMMC with 64GB or perhaps 128GB.
MyShai said:
Hi all,
I've come across many post here asking the possibility of upgrading the eMMC that always answered that's it's not possible due to many pin underneath the BGA.
After several research I've come across a couple of YouTube video that show that it is possible to CHANGE the eMMC because it's not soldered to board, BUT GLUED.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glue would not be conductive.. You are confused. Besides, replacing a BGA with a hot gun is pretty difficult work, easy to screw up and knock stuff off, pull a pad, or when replacing cause a short somewhere.
Just..... no
khaytsus said:
Glue would not be conductive.. You are confused. Besides, replacing a BGA with a hot gun is pretty difficult work, easy to screw up and knock stuff off, pull a pad, or when replacing cause a short somewhere.
Just..... no
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why NOT?
1. It's been done by many as witness in youtube video I post (did you watch?)
2. Their not glueing the BGA PIN to the board. They glueing the SIDE OF THE eMMC to the board.
3. The Manufacture / Samsung (in this youtube video is SGS3 & SGN2) were GLUEING the eMMC to the board (too).
4. Perhaps you're not as skilful in hardware as the person in those youtube video.
MyShai said:
Why NOT?
1. It's been done by many as witness in youtube video I post (did you watch?)
2. Their not glueing the BGA PIN to the board. They glueing the SIDE OF THE eMMC to the board.
3. The Manufacture / Samsung (in this youtube video is SGS3 & SGN2) were GLUEING the eMMC to the board (too).
4. Perhaps you're not as skilful in hardware as the person in those youtube video.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the chip is also glued I don't know/care. The heat is for the solder, plain and simple.
Glue is just used to keep the parts in place during reflow soldering...
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 4 mit Tapatalk
skin57 said:
Glue is just used to keep the parts in place during reflow soldering...
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 4 mit Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is correct. When we create a board we assemble components to be held in place by glue than reflow the board. No manufacturer would ever use glue to hold a vital component to a board...
runningwarrior08 said:
No manufacturer would ever use glue to hold a vital component to a board...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not entirely true since Nokia used a glue to keep the LCD flex in place in some cheaper models (100, 113, 1616, C1-01). These were not soldered at all, there is no connector on the board, just pads and display is just glued to these. HTC also used to glue power button flex directly to the PCB back in the days (Wildfire S).
If it comes to eMMC however, they're always soldered directly to the board and then glued to keep in place, resist water (partially since the glue is often on one side only) and make it harder to remove. It's possible to replace it, but it's not that easy as in the video, especially if you never done it before. Also, such operation requires you to backup current eMMC content (not really an issue with root) and then write dump onto the new chip to keep your device booting and working properly. The ones on the video are pre-programmed.
KrzychuG said:
Not entirely true since Nokia used a glue to keep the LCD flex in place in some cheaper models (100, 113, 1616, C1-01). These were not soldered at all, there is no connector on the board, just pads and display is just glued to these. HTC also used to glue power button flex directly to the PCB back in the days (Wildfire S).
If it comes to eMMC however, they're always soldered directly to the board and then glued to keep in place, resist water (partially since the glue is often on one side only) and make it harder to remove. It's possible to replace it, but it's not that easy as in the video, especially if you never done it before. Also, such operation requires you to backup current eMMC content (not really an issue with root) and then write dump onto the new chip to keep your device booting and working properly. The ones on the video are pre-programmed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Flat-Flex-Cables can be glue-mounted (without an connector), however: The flat-flex-to-board-CONNECTION itself is made using a technique called "Hot bar connection" (where, as the name implies, the connection is soldered to the board using a hot bar). So, glue provides only mechanical strenght - but not he electrical connection.
Hi!
I have a PX3 unit with MCU HA 3.40 (not a dasaita one, maybe a clone) and it has 6.2 screen with a 800x480 resolution. I "got tired" of this screen, it is small, I am getting older , and I would like to replace it with a bigger one , 7 inch or 9 or 10.1 and with better resolution of course, 1024x600. I can made mods, I am just asking for some advise and sourses of knowledge which is plenty in this forum and thanks in advance for it!
I removed the front panel of the HU. It is connected to the main board with a ribbon. The front panel has an electronic sircuit and the lcd and touch screen is connected to it. I found that the lcd panel is 60 pins and the touch screen is 6 pins. On the back of the front panel there an electronic panel with the circuits and chips of the physical buttons (not touch buttons) and there is also a 40 pin connector (empty) and the lcd screen has a 2 pin cable with red and black color.
I saw some youtube videos of disassembling some new cheap car units with 1024x600 resolution, one with a 7 inch 40 pins ribbon and one with a 10.1 inch 60 pins ribbon and the 2 pins cable. So am thinking either of buying one of them and replace all the front panel or buy only the lcd and the touch panel and make a new "cover" for my car unit .... I don't bother with the physical buttons, I 'll find a way or modding them... But I have some questions:
1. Are these lcd panels and touch screens of the new cheap car units combatible with my unit?
2. Is my 40 pin connector working on MY unit or only the 60 pins one?
3. Is the 6 pin touch screen a "universal" common interface for these car units?
4. What is this 2 pin red/black cable? power for what?
I attach some fotos of my unit. Every suggestion is welcome!
image of HU
electronic sircuit of front panel
LCD screen model
touch screen
Reply with an update if you sent ahead with the screen swap. I'm also curious if they are cross compatible? I have a 9inch 8227L Demo and the gps antenna wasn't working so the seller sent me the same model headunit but with a 10inch screen and upon hooking up the 10inch, Amp chip wasn't connected right or it was faulty. Anyways my plan now was to swap the 9inch working headunits screen with the 10inch. All the connections look the same and if I can swap out the board from the 9 and put it in the ten I will. I just haven't found to much info about it I can or not... Another idea I had was maybe try to disconnect the amp chip from the 9inch and solder it into the 10inch? Do you have any ideas if either of those ideas would work ?
Thanks in advance!
Have you tried to re-solder the pins on the amp?
nic2k said:
Have you tried to re-solder the pins on the amp?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I've yet to try that. The reason being is because it looks as if the one pin that wasn't touching the board (or soldered incorrectly to begin with...) Shorted out and that pin/leg looks a little burnt now. Also it looks as if maybe possibly there wasn't enough Thermal Conductive paste too?? Just a guess though. ?