Hello guys i need help from you really need help..
Soo here is problem my touch doesnt work but display work perfectly but touch dosnt respond when i installed windows mobile 6.5 from android.
I tried factory reset,restoring Official Rom but nothing can fix my touch not respond.
WHEN I GO TO BOOTLOADER OR what is that with 4 colors (Volume - key + Red call button) there is not showed any MicroP(touch)
Just this is showed in 4 color menu.
PB81*** SS-BC
SPL-1.42.0000 XE
MicroP(LED) 0x05
Nothing else what is wrong please i need your help please ? ? ? ?
First off try a new original ROM for your HD2 & flash complete spl rom & radio & see what result is.
If same would expect hardware & digitizer replacement needed, digitizer failure very common but normally still seen in bootloader but have seen this on an already replaced digitizer that went bad & needed replacing a second time.
Those android roms tend to cook the HD2 & heat cycles is main cause of all faults really.
Heloo
Mister B said:
First off try a new original ROM for your HD2 & flash complete spl rom & radio & see what result is.
If same would expect hardware & digitizer replacement needed, digitizer failure very common but normally still seen in bootloader but have seen this on an already replaced digitizer that went bad & needed replacing a second time.
Those android roms tend to cook the HD2 & heat cycles is main cause of all faults really.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My friend sayed that he was deleted some System touch folder and i need to install some TOUCH DRIVERS ? What the hell is that ? i never heard about driver for touch ? any suggest aniway i buyed this phone from my friend and it camed without system he sayed that he delted from sd card and everything was worked ?
As my previous post:
Flash an original ROM for your type of HD2 & test, if the same I would suspect digitizer.
Check under battery cover & see if original void sticker still on screw heads as if not it been played with before ... If so worth opening device CAREFULLY and check digitizer ribbon connection & lcd ribbon to mainboard connection & if the seem ok & same issue present after reseating conectors, a new digitizer needs be tested on it.
My money is on hardware of either bad previous repair work or new fault in digitizer assembly & your friend being a plonker ...
HD2 Wiki has ROM links and all info you need to get started on testing/repairing this, read through it well & review guides if need open device as one wrong move will result in you holding pure electronic scrap ...
Heloo
shumailatariq said:
ithanks for help and good ideas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah thanks brto i will try to open, but void button is there so nobody oopened phone before
i will try to open it but i guess that i will change digitizer
htcsfragg said:
Yeah thanks brto i will try to open, but void button is there so nobody oopened phone before
i will try to open it but i guess that i will change digitizer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes expect digitizer needed, worth getting button board ribbon too as makes testing it before assembly really easy plus many people break the button board ribbon when stripping phone down.
Take care opening it, back cover comes off very easy once top clips released then work don right side, don't do much on left side & keep pry tool out of volume area & ONLY use plastic tool.
Razor blade, fishing line & hot air gun or hair dryer will help stripping but care & thought on what you are doing is a must, No need lift the entire flex board ribbon & volume button as can be done with this left in situ & just flex board loosened near connector to mainboard & makes easier in long run & neater final result.
Have a look at a few guides to get better idea on layout & delicate areas .
Help
Mister B said:
Yes expect digitizer needed, worth getting button board ribbon too as makes testing it before assembly really easy plus many people break the button board ribbon when stripping phone down.
Take care opening it, back cover comes off very easy once top clips released then work don right side, don't do much on left side & keep pry tool out of volume area & ONLY use plastic tool.
Razor blade, fishing line & hot air gun or hair dryer will help stripping but care & thought on what you are doing is a must, No need lift the entire flex board ribbon & volume button as can be done with this left in situ & just flex board loosened near connector to mainboard & makes easier in long run & neater final result.
Have a look at a few guides to get better idea on layout & delicate areas .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro how can i see if my digitizer is soldier or connector type ? ? i dont have MicroPtouch in my bootloader ? ? ?
i first wanna buy digitizer than i will open my phone but i need help to determine what is my digitizer ? ? ?
Mister B said:
Yes expect digitizer needed, worth getting button board ribbon too as makes testing it before assembly really easy plus many people break the button board ribbon when stripping phone down.
Take care opening it, back cover comes off very easy once top clips released then work don right side, don't do much on left side & keep pry tool out of volume area & ONLY use plastic tool.
Razor blade, fishing line & hot air gun or hair dryer will help stripping but care & thought on what you are doing is a must, No need lift the entire flex board ribbon & volume button as can be done with this left in situ & just flex board loosened near connector to mainboard & makes easier in long run & neater final result.
Have a look at a few guides to get better idea on layout & delicate areas .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro how can i see if my digitizer is soldier or connector type ? ? i dont have MicroPtouch in my bootloader ? ? ?
i first wanna buy digitizer than i will open my phone but i need help to determine what is my digitizer ? ? ?
htcsfragg said:
Bro how can i see if my digitizer is soldier or connector type ? ? i dont have MicroPtouch in my bootloader ? ? ?
i first wanna buy digitizer than i will open my phone but i need help to determine what is my digitizer ? ? ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With no MicroP (touch) in bootloader you will have to open it to find out by looking at hardware.
Best opening first as you may need more parts if not careful, try removing digitizer from LCD first because if you not good at it you will need LCD too then would need LCD & digitizer set rather than just digitizer for example ...
Related
So, about 2 weeks ago, I got my HD2 off of Craigslist with a cracked screen. It worked perfectly fine with the exception of the hardly noticeable cracks. I knew I could get the replacement digitizer/screen for $40-80. I got my screen in the mail yesterday and, following the "YouTube" video tutorial found on this site, I......ugh.... replaced the screen....................I SCREWED UP BIG TIME!
First, I broke the ribbon cable for the Side "Volume Up/Down" buttons. Then, I broke the ribbon cable for the "soft keys." Ah, crap, but oh well. I figured I could use the touch screen for pretty much everything i needed to do. Well, while prying the cracked digitizer screen from the LCD, I went a bit too deep & peeled the tinted film off of the LCD. I thought nothing of it at the time. I'd already done enough damage. So the display would be a bit brighter than normal oh well.......WRONG! I put the phone back together and once I get it to power up, all I get is a white screen. I thought I missed something. So I disassemble & check 3 more times. Still a white screen.
Well, after all of this, the new digitizer/screen doesn't want to stay in place very well. So, being pissed off and curious, I pull it out and away and notice in the backside reflection of the digitizer that I can slightly make out the phone display. So, apparently the "Tinted Film" that I accidentally peeled off of the LCD makes images visible on the phone screen. I kind of damaged this film when peeling it off. Therefore, I am unable to put it back on. Does anyone know of a simple fix without replacing the LCD?
SORRY FOR THE "SHORT STORY LONG."
I was brainstorming and thought that maybe the film was polarized. So, I grabbed my sunglasses, which are polarized, and wearing them, I can faintly see the display. Anyone think maybe polarized window tint might fix my problem?
Hey man I have some electronic devices that need repair, can I send them to you to fix them?
SURE!
You can pay me in HD2 parts.
Sir i can only say 1 thing. search ebay and replace everything you damaged. only that way you will get your hd2 in perfect state.
keesmathot said:
Sir i can only say 1 thing. search ebay and replace everything you damaged. only that way you will get your hd2 in perfect state.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd go one step further and say bin it and get a new one!
You sound just like me. That is why I never try things like that anymore. Hope it gets sorted but might be better looking for a used one.
I've got it functioning...
I found the film that I ripped off, put it over the screen and........I CAN SEE! However, the top half has lines through it. So, I must've damaged the LCD. The good news is that my phone is useable again. I just have to do everything via the touch screen and can't let the screen hibernate unless I have my charger close by. I'm just gonna keep my eye out for a cheap busted phone and eventually have a 100% phone again...
I sympathize with you. I broke HD2 while I was trying to check for loose WiFi card cable(cuz i was getting weak WiFi signals). The cable turned out to be fine but the external speaker stopped working. I opened it up again and adjusted some parts and it just got worse. the HD2 didn't power on at all. I tried fixing it but to no avail. I ended up sending the HD2 to a repair shop and was charged $170 for the repair. the repair guy said i messed up the power IC and the connector for the external speaker and he had to replace the power IC and resolder the connector.
I think I'm gonna stop trying to open up expensive phones. i was stupid thinking that since I have successfully replaced digitizer for my previous Palm T3, E2 and T5, opening up HD2 wouldn't be a problem. Should have known HD2 components are really fragile...
mmarkk said:
Hey man I have some electronic devices that need repair, can I send them to you to fix them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
made me laugh.......
The best topic ever Thanks, dude!
This is a topic which I don't really like to talk about, but I now want to take the approach to get it outa my mind: The backlight of my soft-key search button does not fully shut down. That is, if I let the phone sit until the lights of the soft-keys (home, menu, back- and search button) shut down, I still see a dimmed light behind my search button. It annoys me.. I know I'm a picky girl.
Is that a hardware failure or do you guys have that, too? I'm convinced it's NOT caused by my current ROM (running DisarmedToaster). Can you recommend an app which will test my phone for hardware failures?
I bought my EVO 3D with blood money and would not really like unrooting and putting the phone into original warranty state to go beg the company I bought it from for a replacement. Please help a desperate lady!
SecUpwN said:
This is a topic which I don't really like to talk about, but I now want to take the approach to get it outa my mind: The backlight of my soft-key search button does not fully shut down. That is, if I let the phone sit until the lights of the soft-keys (home, menu, back- and search button) shut down, I still see a dimmed light behind my search button. It annoys me.. I know I'm a picky girl.
Is that a hardware failure or do you guys have that, too? I'm convinced it's NOT caused by my current ROM (running DisarmedToaster). Can you recommend an app which will test my phone for hardware failures?
I bought my EVO 3D with blood money and would not really like unrooting and putting the phone into original warranty state to go beg the company I bought it from for a replacement. Please help a desperate lady!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine has done that since the day I bought it, although I bought mine used so I just dealt with it. It looks more like bleed from the backlight on the display but i'm not sure. It must be pretty common if we both have it.
richyrocket said:
Mine has done that since the day I bought it, although I bought mine used so I just dealt with it. It looks more like bleed from the backlight on the display but i'm not sure. It must be pretty common if we both have it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for stating this, exactly what I was talking about! Kind of a small release to hear I didn't buy faulty hardware. Do we have other readers here who can confirm that this behavior is normal?
I'll head out to the phone store today to double check. Still, does an app exist to check for hardware failures?
Yes no faulty equipment, it is normal on every single Evo.
( Don't ask for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh)
flashallthetime said:
Yes no faulty equipment, it is normal on every single Evo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You just saved my whole HTC experience. Thank you soo much! How come this is the case on every EVO? Isn't that something draining the battery?
No it is actually bleeding from the main screen, I guess there's a small gap between the search button and the screen
( Don't ask for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh)
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Jsparta26 said:
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use your phone in the dark. Watch until soft buttons stop glowing. See the light behind the search button?
Mine has it too.
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using xda app-developers app
Jsparta26 said:
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn the backlight of touch buttons off using kernel tuner and keep screen on, you will notice light behind search key.
Yeh, methinks it's standard in all our phones fixed mine when i was replacing my digitizer (put a bit of plastic behind the search key to stop the overspill)
dessolator666 said:
Yeh, methinks it's standard in all our phones fixed mine when i was replacing my digitizer (put a bit of plastic behind the search key to stop the overspill)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you void your warranty through opening it? How about the buttons responsiveness afterwards? If you provide a detailed HowTo, you'll get another +1. :thumbup:
SecUpwN said:
Did you void your warranty through opening it? How about the buttons responsiveness afterwards? If you provide a detailed HowTo, you'll get another +1. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeh, warranty gone after opening it.... though now that I think of it... there may be a way around that. Namely I replaced the entire digitizer so I needed to take it apart fully, however since all the connections and cables are at the top of the screen and the buttons are (obviously ) on the bottom you could lift the digitizer up from the bottom and fix it without messing with the screws in the back (the one that voids your warranty).
To actually do this you will need:
Heat gun(or decent hair drier) anything with 500w or above should be plenty
Some good double sided adhesive tape (probably won't be able to reuse the original one)
A case opener tool (to lift the digitizer)
A piece of plastic or anything else opaque and nonconductive
Procedure:
heat up all the edges of the digitizer evenly (don't cook them, just heat them up )
Using a case opener tool get in between the digitizer and the aluminium chassis starting at the bottom and work your way up to the top
When the bottom and sides are free gently lift the digitizer with the top as a hinge point heating it up if necessary.
Ta da! You can see the inner workings of the buttons
Notice that the buttons have pieces of transparent plastic leading light from the LEDs to the actual surface the light overspill happens around the search button so I put a tiny piece of plastic around it (there are probably more elegant ways around this... but I'm not that elegant to begin with so this worked just fine.
Cut out thin strips of tape and put them on the edges of the digitizer where the old adhesive was (or reuse the old adhesive if you can)
Close up the phone and there you have it... your warranty should still be valid... tho if any1 opens the phone up they will probably notice the extra piece of plastic (or whatever you used)
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
dessolator666 said:
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would actually be the coolest contribution I've seen in a ling time! Are you really willing to do that for our EVO community? If you did, you'd be our king.
Don't worry, it's on every EVO 3D. From GSM to CDMA.
The light bleed is from the screen back light. It does give the phone a cheap feel sometimes, but it's a common problem.
It's not as prevalent on cm10 with inverted gapps
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
flashallthetime said:
It's not as prevalent on cm10 with inverted gapps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How come?
SecUpwN said:
How come?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Inverted gapps has black backgrounds so the screen bleeding is reduced
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
---------- Post added at 10:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ----------
I can drastically reduce screen brightness which helps, there's still some bleeding
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
dessolator666 said:
Yeh, warranty gone after opening it.... though now that I think of it... there may be a way around that. Namely I replaced the entire digitizer so I needed to take it apart fully, however since all the connections and cables are at the top of the screen and the buttons are (obviously ) on the bottom you could lift the digitizer up from the bottom and fix it without messing with the screws in the back (the one that voids your warranty).
To actually do this you will need:
Heat gun(or decent hair drier) anything with 500w or above should be plenty
Some good double sided adhesive tape (probably won't be able to reuse the original one)
A case opener tool (to lift the digitizer)
A piece of plastic or anything else opaque and nonconductive
Procedure:
heat up all the edges of the digitizer evenly (don't cook them, just heat them up )
Using a case opener tool get in between the digitizer and the aluminium chassis starting at the bottom and work your way up to the top
When the bottom and sides are free gently lift the digitizer with the top as a hinge point heating it up if necessary.
Ta da! You can see the inner workings of the buttons
Notice that the buttons have pieces of transparent plastic leading light from the LEDs to the actual surface the light overspill happens around the search button so I put a tiny piece of plastic around it (there are probably more elegant ways around this... but I'm not that elegant to begin with so this worked just fine.
Cut out thin strips of tape and put them on the edges of the digitizer where the old adhesive was (or reuse the old adhesive if you can)
Close up the phone and there you have it... your warranty should still be valid... tho if any1 opens the phone up they will probably notice the extra piece of plastic (or whatever you used)
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe it can be done without opening the back. If I'm not mistaken, that's where the connector is and it can't be accessed from the front. I could be wrong though
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
HermanV0929 said:
I don't believe it can be done without opening the back. If I'm not mistaken, that's where the connector is and it can't be accessed from the front. I could be wrong though
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sure it can be done... because you have to do pretty much exactly that when replacing the LCD or digitizer
I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
please elaborate
speedman2202 said:
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello speedman and OP.
Speedman, can you please elaborate on your answer.
I am refering to this part of your answer ".... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... ".
The reason I am asking is that I had epiphany two days ago that didn't end well, but the journey was rewarding.
I was thinking, ok Kindle 3 (keyboard) has a better screen that nook ST (contrast). I really like my rooted nook. Both things are made in China, by same manufacturer.
I will make an uber device and fit a kindle 3 screen on nook. (I am not a technical person, but i do love my rooted nook, may he rest in peace).
I was really close, and was able to connect kindle screen to nook simple touch battery and motherboard. And it worked, it showed nook screen on my half opened kindle keyboard. Unfortunately, I got overzealous in attempt of removing screen from nook simple touch (bloody silicone), and screen broke. At this point all my confidence was gone. I reassembled kindle 3 fast, so at least i have one device safe.
So, my question is, if i actually try to do this again (30 gbp for nook st these days), will i have touch capabilities, that is: where is the bloody infrared, on the eink screen? haven't seen anything special there....
I was so happy when I sow OP question.....and than cold shower......
The infrared touch module is attached to the bezel of the Nook, has no connection to the e-ink screen. I think that the panels are identical as far as specs, not sure about the connections though. Any difference in contrast has to do with the software, not the panel itself.
OB
Sent from my Evo V 4G using Tapatalk 2
dkuku said:
I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont do it - I have also ordered ED060SCE and the seller send me ED060SC7 - I put it in the device and it didn't work. I ordered later a second one and I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd - I ordered a second nook with broken lcd and in this unit the new lcd worked like charm
dkuku said:
I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
trurlo said:
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
dkuku said:
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
trurlo said:
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
dkuku said:
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
trurlo said:
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as I look close then I see they aren't connected to GND - I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
dkuku said:
I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, that helps a lot - while they might not be connected to GND, they seem to be organized in a simple 2x2 matrix - I can see a path connecting two outer rings in the upper part of the PCB - that would mean I can extend these 2 buttons easily with a 3-pin connector. That would be enough.
I will let you know if it works out.
The question of keyboard stuff is continued here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2434722
trurlo said:
I will let you know if it works out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the result. Thanks for your help. And thanks to Renate for confirmation of the pinouts.
I think maybe put a screen Kindle 3 in Nook. Datasheet are almost identical. Waveform is in firmware 1.2.1 for display...
I can confirm the e-ink screen for Kindle Keyboard can be put into Nook Simple Touch, working beautifully. Just be careful when taking NST apart, because the e-ink screen is VERY tightly glued to the back panel, using some kind of strong double sided tape. I ended up cracking it...
I ordered a screen/digitizer assembly to replace mine because its cracked. I didn't want to disbond the digitizer so I ordered the whole assembly.
When I installed the new. assembly, the screen wont come on and the phone wont boot. Here is where thing started to get interesting:
1. Boot the phone with the old screen assembly and wait until the home screen shows then turn off screen.
2. Disconnect the old screen at this moment and connect the new one while the phone in sleep mode.
3. push power button to wake screen and its working and fully functional.(New one)
If I tried to reboot the phone the new screen wont come back on again. I also tried to reset and RUU and it still wont work.
Please let me know if you have any suggestions. I am in the process of returning the screen and getting another one, but i am still worried if I will be going through the same issue. One thing I didn't like about the phone is the cheap trashy components. So easy to brake and not made to be worked on.
I think I found the problem.
Well. Taking a closer look at the ribbon cable for the LCD and it appears to be the same color, but if you follow the lines, it does not look the same. I am currently waiting on a screen from a different seller and hoping to be the right one. I will keep you updated as I go forward.
Too many views, but no comment. I just hope this post going to help someone in the future. Keep in mind that sellers doesn't specified the kind of the LCD which is creating the troubles.
I am going to attach some photos to make it little clear. Keep in mind that I have HTC One for AT&T USA.
Did you ever replace the screen? I need to take mine apart and put a new battery and USB port in it. I'd like to know how pulling the screen went for you, if it was done.
xartic12 said:
Did you ever replace the screen? I need to take mine apart and put a new battery and USB port in it. I'd like to know how pulling the screen went for you, if it was done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that good. I watched a YouTube video that helps a Little. You have to be really careful. Watch it and let me know if you need any additional help. Removing a broken screen not that bad since its broken. Be really careful when you order your new screen because I am having trouble to fine the right one. Mine PN: 60H00741-00P . There are many PN: 60H00742-02M that aren't working for me.
Forgot the video links
To disassemble : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZFAsgjCunc
To reassemble: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5KNmDeJ4Ww
medoo313 said:
Not that good. I watched a YouTube video that helps a Little. You have to be really careful. Watch it and let me know if you need any additional help. Removing a broken screen not that bad since its broken. Be really careful when you order your new screen because I am having trouble to fine the right one. Mine PN: 60H00741-00P . There are many PN: 60H00742-02M that aren't working for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem I have isn't the screen, but rather the battery and the USB port.. I have found both for about $20 each, but just didn't want to trash a basically brand new HTC.
Did you use a suction cup or pry it out?
xartic12 said:
The problem I have isn't the screen, but rather the battery and the USB port.. I have found both for about $20 each, but just didn't want to trash a basically brand new HTC.
Did you use a suction cup or pry it out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a plastic sharp tool and you need to find the spots where you have to press on it to get it released. If you look at the first video, you will see where he marked it. those are the lock tabs that hold the assembly. The worst could happen is you may put a few dents in the plastic frame. You can order this part for around $20. A suction cup may works for you as well. Consider giving it little heat to lose the adhesive. Let me know if you still have any further questions.
Good luck
Where to get the right LCD in USA
I finally found a good supplier in USA for the proper kind of LCD. I spoke to him on the phone and I sent some pictures of my LCD. He has LCD part number 60H00741-00P that I been looking for. The website is https://www.gounlock.com/ If you ever call, ask for Jacky.
Hey guys, today I dropped my HOX+ (International), not for the first time, but this time the glass shattered.
Ofcourse I don't want to spend buckets for some professionals, I will try to do it on my own.
Only the glass broke, touch is still fine. Only thing I noticed are 2 little holes in the glass where
the colors seem a little bit orange. Now my questions are:
1.Is it possible to only swap the digitizer (glass) or is it too hard glued together with the LCD panel?
2.Are the orange spots (you can barely see them) a problem or the LCD panel or will they
be fixed with a new digitizer?
3.Which HOX models have the same screen as the X+, I heard the international HOX has the same,
is that true?
4.Are the LEDs of the HOX+ menu buttons red or is it just the digitizer? White buttons would look great, too.
5.Do I really need replacementkits for like 60 euro with tools and all that stuff or can I do it with my own tools
at home? My father is not a professional but he already fixed all kinds of electronic things, I got his help.
6.If replacing only the digitizer is possible should I do it or would u recommend to replace the whole screen,
that would also prevent dust in the screen.
7.In many videos they didn't shut down the phone so they could test whether it worked, is that recommended or can I break smth?
That's all I had to ask, tell me which mistakes you did or some tips etc.
Hope I get some fast responses, so I know which things to order, thanks in advance
Tazmaniiac said:
Hey guys, today I dropped my HOX+ (International), not for the first time, but this time the glass shattered.
Ofcourse I don't want to spend buckets for some professionals, I will try to do it on my own.
Only the glass broke, touch is still fine. Only thing I noticed are 2 little holes in the glass where
the colors seem a little bit orange. Now my questions are:
1.Is it possible to only swap the digitizer (glass) or is it too hard glued together with the LCD panel?
2.Are the orange spots (you can barely see them) a problem or the LCD panel or will they
be fixed with a new digitizer?
3.Which HOX models have the same screen as the X+, I heard the international HOX has the same,
is that true?
4.Are the LEDs of the HOX+ menu buttons red or is it just the digitizer? White buttons would look great, too.
5.Do I really need replacementkits for like 60 euro with tools and all that stuff or can I do it with my own tools
at home? My father is not a professional but he already fixed all kinds of electronic things, I got his help.
6.If replacing only the digitizer is possible should I do it or would u recommend to replace the whole screen,
that would also prevent dust in the screen.
7.In many videos they didn't shut down the phone so they could test whether it worked, is that recommended or can I break smth?
That's all I had to ask, tell me which mistakes you did or some tips etc.
Hope I get some fast responses, so I know which things to order, thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
first of all sorry for the screen.
1 . you can't change the glass only because its one part at all. like the glass,touch panel and the LCD are the same piece its too hard to separate them unless you have a IR Oven. so try the whole screen replacement. the international HOX screen is ok but the capacitive buttons will be white not red.
ps:don't try to open the chase with your own unless you know what you are doing . cuz i opened mine for like 20 times and every time i was breaking something in it. Mostly the power switch flex is real easy to be broken. good luck with that.
ps2: im suggesting you to buy the original spare of the hox+ screen and replace with that. you can do it with the box one but I'm not very sure the screen voltages are the same or compatible totally..
peace :angel:
So I am back again:
I took a new One X Plus Screen and built it in the phone..
I can turn it on, my PC detects the device, menu buttons are glowing. Now 4 problems:
-LCD is not working (digitizer works fine, I tested it with swipe to wake)
-vibrator thing is not working
-speakers not working
-menu button LEDs are glowing, but u can't see the buttons itself glow, only the LEDs are glowing
I am pretty sure that everything is plugged in how it should be done, any ideas?
Don't have a phone right now so fast help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
Edit:
-vibrator thing is actually working, it was just blocked by something
-Menu buttons can't glow because there is something between LEDs and the screen, gonna fix that later
-speakers can't work because they are in the housing, sry for that mistake
Now the only problem left is the lcd, i am going to check again whether the lcd cable
is connected or not. If you have any ideas for other reasons why the lcd could not wok
please tell me.
Another question: under the menu buttons of my old screen were 3 transparent plastic pieces,
at first I thought it were the leds, but they are actually nothing electrical, just plastic pieces
glued on the screen. What are they for, do I have to keep them?