We all want better battery life, no question, more than processor speed (some of us even underclock), resolution, 3D drivers; pretty much everything takes second place in our hearts to battery life. In response to that demand there are a lot of companies out there selling batteries for our phones either at the same mAh rating of the OEM (the one that came with the phone), a higher mAh rating but the battery's the same dimensions as the OEM and does not require a deeper cover and batteries that are both larger in capacity and physical size -- or so they allege. Usually these batteries are cheaper than the OEM's, mAh for mAh at least. By the way, mAh ratings, or milliamp hours, think of it in terms of the size of a gas tank you installed in your car. The higher the figure, the longer you can use your phone.
Got a Nexus One? Say hello to our sister thread! No wait, just go straight to forum.batteryboss.org right now, forget this thread.
There are battery threads all over XDA but only with vague data so I invested in equipment to rate the batteries myself, under the guidance of electrogeniuses as you can read in this thread, in order to tell you what to expect in addition to giving you figures such as how many amp hours you get on the dollar as maybe a cheap battery with an exaggerated or oddly defined rating is worth getting over an expensive and better one if you're on a budget. Not counting all the man hours that Telek, amit77 and I have put into coming up with the most reliable way to produce data, so far I've spent over $200 on different equipment to get to where we are now. By the way, OEM = made by the people who made the battery that came with your phone. I'm not asking you to donate yet or reimburse me for my troubles, rather I'd like you, the next time you buy a battery I haven't already tested, to mail it to me first so I can run a couple tests after which I will FedEx it to you at my expense. If that interests you, PM me. If you are a battery manufacturer or reseller and you stand by your claims and trust me to run legitimate tests on it that are consistent with every other test I publish in terms of procedure, PM me or post publicly.
The procedure:
I am using the Computerized Battery Analyzer III. The software which is somewhat sophisticated plots out milliamp hours (mAh) burnt over the descent of voltage from 4.14V to 3.5V which we have determined to be the level of voltage in the battery at which point the phone decides to stop charging itself and decides it's time to turn itself off because it's too low on juice. The CBA software plots out data in graphs, PDFs, CSVs, the whole deal. Looks a little like this:
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In order to produce the best real-world information, numbers that are relevant to you and not just to academics, I charge the batteries with the phone as you do until the phone decides the battery is charged which for the Rhodium/Touch Pro2/Tilt 2 is 4.14 volts regardless of capacity rating. I hook the batteries up to the CBA which is plugged into my computer. With the software that came with the CBA I have the CBA test the batteries at 250mA, a current in the neighborhood of what the average user would average were he to do his thing (including having push-mail fired up with the screen on bright, downloading and browsing rss feeds, the occasional call, bubblebreaker etc) without interruption. To get a better idea of what kind of current you're using when doing various things use the attached acbPowerMeter software. I'm not Geraldo Rivera out to get the third party guys that exaggerate their numbers a little bit nor am I here to rewrite Wikipedia's take on capacity calculation industry standards. If you're a manufacturer or a battery company sympathizer and want to break my balls about voltage cutoffs, read this simple explanation which I feel sums up our position well. The point, in short, of all of this is to supply you with information that will help you choose which battery to buy.
Doug Simmons
Test results and other information.
This table is a hotlinked image to data on the mother site of this, batteryboss.org on which the actual links work. Hit refresh if you've been here before in case your browser cached the image of the table.
Updates:
August 7th: First did a dry run then I the AMZER 1800mAh for the EVO. So far it's in first place for being the biggest ripoff on the gallon. First place.
August 5th: Received Carl's AMZER 1800mAh for EVO, doing a dry run discharge now, hopefully get some data for you tomorrow morning.
July 28th: Finished Carl's Seidio 3500mAh for EVO 4G. Seems the Seidios all rate at 81% of their claim.
July 6th: Completed round one of EVO stock (John Doward). Got the coveted Amzer 1800 and a Seidio 3500, both EVO, en route thanks to Carl Willi.
June 12th: Completed first run of a Mugen 3200mAh for the Hero. Both disappointing and unsurprising. Most cost ineffective battery I've tested.
June 11th: Jasper and Dan's batteries on the way back to them. Thanks again. Hey, Mugen 3200 for Hero and EVO 4G stock on their way! Another update, just received that Mugen 3200, charging now.
June 10th: Completed testing for a no name Hero battery and the stock Incredible battery with the EVO 4G stock on its way. Nice. Returning those batteries to my man Dan and my other man Jasper.
June 9th: Seems a seller I linked may be committing fraud. Please read.
June 7th: First test complete of an oversized no name Hero battery, second one in progress.
April 26th: Got some press. And a little more.
April 15th: Hoo-F'ing-ray, we have a winner, Wade's HTC 2150mAh clocks in exactly at 2150! high five, HTC!
April 14th: Taking the HTC 2150mAh for a spin right now. Finally! Thank you Deathmonkey!April 12th: Rotohammer's Seidio 1600mAh for the N1 has arrived, charging. Exact dimensions as OEM, wish I had a scale.
April 9th: In a continued effort to outdo himself Rotohammer just ordered a 2400mAh-rated Cameron Sino, on its way to me. Lucky I got his attention. Extremely helpful. Thanks.
April 8th: N1 Seidio 1600mAh should show up today, thanks to Rotohammer.
April 3rd: Finished N1 Seidio 3200mAh, five runs. Learned that it's rated slightly more honestly than Mugen (not saying much) but is the most expensive battery per tested amp hour. Still, highest capacity. I got a new and fast and really badass server and now have a our own forum which you can fire up at forum.batteryboss.org. Finished the new Andida for the TP2, pretty weak, but for some of you the price may be right.
March 30th: Completed dry run of a Seidio 3200mAh for the N1. Not fantastic but Seidio has taken the lead against Mugen in honesty.
March 29th: Mugen "engineer" responds (see table). Rotohammer's Seidio arrived, charging now baby, yeah! Should be very interesting. Thanks Roto.
March 27th: Shawn's OEM a fake (but a well performing fake). Activity building in the Nexus One thread. Mugen sent me an exchange for Jeremy's and it sucks even more.
March 20th: Just ran the first test of the Nexus One's OEM, not bad.
March 18th: Just ordered a Google Nexus One. I got an extra battery so the first thing I'm using this for is to prepare a battery for testing. Need to figure out if it has different voltage cutoffs, need to figure out how to present the data and what to do with my site, .. hmmm.
March 16th: Mugen wants me to send me another battery to test, I agreed and mailed them back Jeremy's battery. Also mailed Sean/Telek his OEM 1500mAh. Thank you both fellas. Also DeathmonkeyGTX offered to sponsor a test of the HTC 2150mAh -- thank you!
March 13th: Finished no name #2 3600mAh (2466mAh ). In search of voltage cutoffs for Touch Pro/Fuze, please help.
March 12th: Mugen has expressed interest in sending me another battery to test, I expressed willingness. And to you I express curiosity into which device to expand the testing.
March 8th:Finished round two of no name #2 and fake OEM #2. Waiting on another ebay OEM to verify authenticity and a fresh Andida courtesy of my main man Shawn Martell.
March 7th:Added intriguing head to head chart matches.
March 6th:Completed a few more including fresh standard legit OEM, also discovered two counterfeits.
March 2nd: Completed no name #1, cheapest per mAh so far. Dropped Jason's battery off in the mail as promised.
Feb 28th: Completed tests of the Seidio, mailing it to jasonweaver.
Feb 27th: Just received Seidio 1750mAh from jasonweaver in addition to 1500mAh no name ebay cheapo. Nice.
Feb 27th: Mugen 1800mAh testing completed, table updated. Thank you very much jcr916 who bought the battery and had it shipped to me, now I'm going to mail it to him.
Feb 22nd: Thank you jasonweaver and jcr916 who are hooking me up with a barely-used Seidio and a brand new Mugen 1800mAh respectively. Those test results should be interesting as from what I've gathered those two brands have the best reputation and are priced accordingly so let's see if they deserve it.
Telek and I just laid down some dough for five more batteries this weekend. So I'll have a lot of testing to do shortly. Stay tuned for the results!
Batteries I would like to test next so PM me if you want to help. New and used batteries welcome.
AT&T/HTC 2150mAh Pricey worth it. Really want to test this one. *En route*
HTC 2150mAh - Same model as AT&T but cheaper, doesn't come with door. *En route (same battery)*
Cameron Sino - Found five favorable/neutral reports.
A new Seidio 1750mAh - Tested a used one already but need data on a fresh battery.
Google Froogle search for more.
Tips and other reflections:
AT&T people, beware that if you order a battery that requires a deeper back cover but is for the Touch Pro2 and not the AT&T Tilt 2 that the cover may not have a hole for the PTT button nor may it latch on. Maybe you can burn one through with a hot screwdriver or you could just crazy glue. Beware of the usual dangers of ebay obviously, only use sellers with high ratings and consider buying straight from the company's website or Amazon or a name you've heard of. I have found over two counterfeits from sellers with high ratings. Read your phone's warranty before using a third party battery. Get the return policy before you buy. If you do get burnt with a counterfeit OEM, immediately give negative feedback using language like "counterfeit" and email the seller requesting both immediate restitution and that they remove their listings of that particular battery or at the least any reference in the listing to the battery being either an OEM or giving an OEM-like serial number, anything misleading, and in return offer to neutralize negative feedback. Reporting fraud to ebay is up to you but I would take those steps first. It's a longshot but the information we really want from the dealer is their supplier but so far I haven't been able to get any of them to cough that information up. If you're not sure if the thing's a counterfeit and want to find out, send it to me to test.
Testing hardware:
I am using the West Mountain Radio CBA III (Computerized Battery Analyzer) which you can buy along with some toys from these guys for $149. I bought something else from them, didn't like it and they offered to shave the cost of the thing I didn't want off the price of the CBA III without even asking me to return it. Good people. The CBA III is the most accurate and reliable device we could find for these testing purposes and we spent many hours arriving at the final testing procedure. No corners cut. There is no indication whatsoever that the results it's produced are inaccurate, certainly not relative to each other given its consistency. All testing procedures were identical including the current of 250mA, starting voltage and bottom cutoff (4.14V and 3.5V respectively, the top and bottom cutoffs of the Touch Pro2, which I use to charge the batteries with original HTC wall charger). The 250mA current may be a little high and won't produce as flattering a result versus a 100mA current, but it's both a normal current we burn when we're doing stuff on the phone, it keeps each of the three tests inside six hours usually and most importantly we use that current on every single test of every single battery so this is a standardized test. Finally the OEMs get 95% of their claimed rating on this current so we believe that that current is the sweet spot to supply you with information to use to buy your next battery.
Doug Simmons
Excellent thread - although from my experience with LiIon devices:
- the device itself typically has poor ability to determine battery usage
- you really need an actual external ammeter to monitor usage
With payment terminals that I used to work on the external ammeter (which I assume was accurate) was up to 15% off what the terminal itself reported - and wasn't consistent depending on the amount of current draw. The ability for the batteries themselves to accurately report their % remaning was also highly inaccurate and can only be used as a guideline. YMMV.
Thanks .. though you may realize this, my main interest is not in current at a given point but in total consumption from a full charge to when it dies. You're saying in order to get a definitive result, solid enough to recommend one thing over another, I need such a device to get beyond bad indications and confounding variables? Or with a difference between a few hundred mAhs over a few trials sound like enough to determine a clear winner, but ideally have an ammeter? Any cheap ammeters that not only clock the current but plot it down over time or do whatever it takes to yield the total? Not too familiar with these things, just a quick glance at wikipedia.
Well honestly I have no idea how either the battery or the TP2 fares for current reading.
I think you'd have to do a benchmark - find some way of running the same task on the TP2 that will use the same amount of battery power and run it a few times from a full battery charge. See if the mAh readings are consistent. My guess, however, is that the readings are going to be quite different which will be a combination of the battery AND reporting method. Even using an external battery reconditioner we'd get +/- 10% on successive runs with the same battery. The only way you could tell that the reconditioner was working was the batteries would go from 30 mins runtime to 90 mins after reconditioning.
Back when I did my testing I used a custom designed unit - had a arm7 microcontroller and threw a resistor in series and constantly monitored the voltage drop to determine current usage and plotted it that way. Most multimeters that you can hook up to your computer don't have high enough sampling rates or are too expensive.
how the frak do you delete messages? duplicate post...
Telek said:
how the frak do you delete messages? duplicate post...
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Click to collapse
dupe all you want, need this thing bumped.. working hard on it, getting some good info together.
As Telek said an external test is the only reliable way to get accurate results. The best way to do this to apply the same resistive drain to all of the batteries and charging them all with the same charger. A .5c drain should be safe enough to drain in a reasonable amount of time with out over heating the battery.
The main factor we need to know as far as the device is concerned is what the cutoff voltage is set at. LI-ion batteries can be drained down to less the 3v safely and most good ones have protection circuits that cut them off above 2.7v. None of that will matter if HTC has the device set to cutoff at 3.2v or higher.
Once the cutoff V is known then you time the drain from full charge to C/O.
I've done a lot of battery pack building and maintaining in radio controlled hobby's. With out having access to the right equipment this is going to be a daunting task and quite possibly more expensive than buying a few batteries. Hopefully the right person will see this thread and will step up to do the testing.
anit77 said:
As Telek said an external test is the only reliable way to get accurate results. The best way to do this to apply the same resistive drain to all of the batteries and charging them all with the same charger. A .5c drain should be safe enough to drain in a reasonable amount of time with out over heating the battery.
The main factor we need to know as far as the device is concerned is what the cutoff voltage is set at. LI-ion batteries can be drained down to less the 3v safely and most good ones have protection circuits that cut them off above 2.7v. None of that will matter if HTC has the device set to cutoff at 3.2v or higher.
Once the cutoff V is known then you time the drain from full charge to C/O.
I've done a lot of battery pack building and maintaining in radio controlled hobby's. With out having access to the right equipment this is going to be a daunting task and quite possibly more expensive than buying a few batteries. Hopefully the right person will see this thread and will step up to do the testing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay well in the interests of making this thread epically informative I am almost willing to buy myself an ammeter. Could you please recommend one that is both cheap and capable of getting the job done for something smaller than a car battery and a device with such settings to fine-tune? Something that I can rig up to the battery's contacts which are so thinly spaced together without a soldering iron? Here's a list...
Well for starters do you want to test the phone + battery or just the battery?
Testing the battery alone will be a LOT easier - in fact a general test can be done with just a heavy duty resistor and a voltmeter. Watch how long it takes the battery to go from full charge to C/O and you've got your mAh rating. I'd recommend this as it's easy and cheap.
If you want to check actual phone usage time and compare it to whatever reading you get via software you'll need to build a little rig that allows you to place the battery externally with leads running to the battery contacts in the phone. That part is not as hard as it sounds. However what that you're going to need some sort of way of tracking the current flow with high precision and high frequency. If you're any good with microcontrollers that can be done easily, otherwise I'm not sure. I'll check and see if I can find anything that would qualify.
Telek said:
Well for starters do you want to test the phone + battery or just the battery? Testing the battery alone will be a LOT easier - in fact a general test can be done with just a heavy duty resistor and a voltmeter. Watch how long it takes the battery to go from full charge to C/O and you've got your mAh rating. I'd recommend this as it's easy and cheap.
If you want to check actual phone usage time and compare it to whatever reading you get via software you'll need to build a little rig that allows you to place the battery externally with leads running to the battery contacts in the phone. That part is not as hard as it sounds. However what that you're going to need some sort of way of tracking the current flow with high precision and high frequency. If you're any good with microcontrollers that can be done easily, otherwise I'm not sure. I'll check and see if I can find anything that would qualify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
C'mon man, obviously I want the easier way that satisfactorily satisfies what I want to know without crazy wiring and microcontrollers. Just want to know how many milliamp hours these two suckers and any other batteries I might get along the way compare to each other, a drag race. I'll leave that other stuff to the guys from Popular Mechanics.
We also need to consider the resolution needed for such a device.
For example a 5.0V ADC (providing 0-5V range) at 16-bit resolution for a current shunt designed to provide a 50mV drop at 1A is going to give you 1.53mA resolution (5V 16-bit = 0.0763mV resolution; 0-50mV range = 655 binary range = 1.53mA range). Conveniently a 3.3V range for the ADC gives almost exactly 1mA resolution which is perfect.
However I can't find any cheap ready-to-go data loggers with that resolution and range.
Now if you wanted to make the setup a little more complicated and toss a simple op-amp into there you could probably get away with something like this:
http://www.dataq.com/products/startkit/di194rs.htm
$25 plus a few bucks to build a simple op-amp circuit (check out http://www.chem.uoa.gr/Applets/AppletOpAmps/Appl_OpAmps2.html with values 1kO and 2000kO V1=0.005V and V2=0) use the computer PSU to provide +/- 12V to the amp will give you ~ +/- 10V operational range (perfect for the data logger) and you'll get 2mA resolution with 240Hz sampling - far from perfect but sufficient to actually do some decent measurements of actual current draw from the phone. Log both the shunt resistor voltage drop through the op-amp and the raw battery voltage and you've got a nice little power monitor that can give you detailed measurements of how much power every little thing in your phone takes.
Ok so grab yourself one of these:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HPC1210JCT-ND
Or any generic 10 ohm resistor capable of dissipating at least 5W (wire-wound will work). Ask at your local electronics shop and they can probably help you. Should cost less than $20 including the multimeter.
It'll draw about 700mA and dissipate about 5W (so it'll get hot, should put a small fan on it) and should dissipate your battery in about 2 hours. Combine with a voltmeter where you write the measurements down at least every couple of minutes and that will allow you to plot the voltage drop curve and calculate the mAh rating of the battery.
Well if you can come up with what you think the right standardized procedures and various levels of this and that, again standardized, to use to test multiple batteries from multiple manufacturers of varying mAh claims (but presumably of the same voltage?) just to get a total mAh versus that of the OEM, and then tell me which device to buy to make that happen, I could contact these various companies, tell them to send me their superbattery for me to test accurately to see if they are legit and, in exchange for sending me the battery, I'll list the results on either of my sites which are fairly trafficked, enough for a company to want to give away a battery if it meant getting their claims verified in front of an audience thirsty for milliamp hours.
You see where I'm going with this?
Telek said:
Ok so grab yourself one of these:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HPC1210JCT-ND
Or any generic 10 ohm resistor capable of dissipating at least 5W (wire-wound will work). Ask at your local electronics shop and they can probably help you. Should cost less than $20 including the multimeter.
It'll draw about 700mA and dissipate about 5W (so it'll get hot, should put a small fan on it) and should dissipate your battery in about 2 hours. Combine with a voltmeter where you write the measurements down at least every couple of minutes and that will allow you to plot the voltage drop curve and calculate the mAh rating of the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got a Radio Shack down the block. But 700mA is maybe unnecessarily/excessively strong -- firstly because running batteries hot and heavy wears them out over time so if I keep testing new batteries against one oem .. ahh nevermind i guess that wouldn't batter but normal usage is between 30-400mA. How many ohms might yield roughly 250, 300mA? Think I'd get lucky at RatShack?
Running batteries at 1/2 their capacity is generally pretty safe for full discharge - so a 1500mAh battery discharging at 700mA should be fine - not really considered "hot & heavy".
You could go 20 ohm (2.5W discharge 350mA) and monitor over 4-5 hours then, just means more work for you since you're going to need to record the voltage over time.
I somehow doubt that RadioShack would carry any sort of resistors like this, but a general purpose electronics hobby shop should.
Thanks you very much with this test. Very instructive.
A question:
What is the best PocketPC software for mesuring mAh. I've try AbcPower, but I don't think it's very accurate when charging. normally, 500mA via PC USB.
powerguard
I believe it's powerguard which is frickin' awesome for all things battery-related (.. born on xda) but I can't get the consumption thing to tally which doesn't really help this project. That's either because the software doesn't like our phone or because the shareware is crippled not to do that among some other things. Other than this powerguard and abcpowermeter, I am unaware of any other WinMo app that will count up the consumption. So I sent the guy some euros (five, he asked for three) to get a registration file hoping that will do the trick but man he went out of his way to make it a pain in the balls to register this thing. Hope he checks his email soon because I want this thing unleashed.
By the way for those of you living in 10% increment land on your battery meters, grab Chainfire's 1% battery driver for Euro and apparently AT&T Touch Pro2s (gsm?) or Quentin-'s 1% driver for Tmo, Sprint and Verizon (I guess any cdma tp2). After you install either of those you'd better check your battery drain to make sure you didn't install the wrong one (you can tell if you notice your phone is using a lot more juice). If you did, not to worry, they are uninstallable.
Doug
anit77 said:
Hopefully the right person will see this thread and will step up to do the testing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I want to be that guy. I'm willing to put the time, money and patience into it. Only snag is is that I'm not a physicist/electrical engineer like you two.
What I want to set out to do here is have a means of performing standardized testing with the same equipment with the same settings with me doing the same things (including how frequently I watch it and what math I do at the end) each time in order to get true and consistently true mAh until c/o ratings, true enough to satisfy third party battery companies/dealers (and people who actually read and use what I post) that I've got a fair and trustworthy procedure to see if their batteries live up to their claims, posting tables of batteries, mAh, cost of the battery and cost per mAh, something like that, both here and on my website for people to read and copy to their own sites and forum threads.
I reread your comments a couple more times. What I guess I need to do is find out what the cutoff voltage is for this phone (do I do that by eyeballing the mV readings on this powerguard software until the phone clicks off or is additional equipment necessary?). Then I need to get myself this data logger -- nope, just a 10 ohm resistor and maybe this voltmeter or perhaps something like this would make this simpler? What's my shopping cart?
Once I have some setup like that I fully discharge a battery then charge it up with the phone off then connect it both to the resistor and the voltmeter, plot out the readings every three minutes until it hits the voltage cutoff point, repeat X amount of times, then crank out some math to figure out a total mAh reading from start to cutoff point (we'll discuss that later...) and finally I'm good? Something like that? How am I doing?
Just hit me with the shopping cart and I'll get that out of the way and read this while it all ships then check back here.
The goal is to generate and disseminate valuable information on something very mysterious and dubious. People who make these things know we have no idea how to do what we're fixin' to do in this thread so why not claim wild ratings for the same dimensions and get more people to buy our stuff? Let's tell 'em why and maybe score some free batteries along the way for our troubles.
This looks like it'd be perfect. but it's $120. You be able to test most any battery too. There's tons of this type stuff in R/C and electronics hobby sites. It just doing the searching needed to find what your looking for.
I'd say make a new thread for taking donations to buy one. PM a mod or Flar and ask where to post it or if they'll put links to the thread in some of the sub forums and you'd get people with other phone that'd be interested too. Could be a way to make some extra cash as well. If you don't want to deal with a progect of this size I'm sure you'd be able to find someone who is.
Related
Have just bought an Hero 3000mAh battery and larger cover for £14.99 uk (free postage too) for a test. Will report back as to performance since it has just arrived and am in process of charging.
Only downside so far is thicker cover is black, but that is puerly a cosmetic factor and doesn't bother me too much. Am hoping that this will give me better than a days charge with Android 2.1 ROMs.
Am not sure that I can post where I bought the battery from on the Forum as this could be considered spamming. Could someone clarify if I am able to give the link.
I have just purchased one as well after seeing this post, Will hopefully be ok.
Initial impressions of the battery seem to be positive (pun intended). Had a slight worry when battery indicator dropped a single bar within an hour, 20 hours later and indicator is still sat at one bar from full.
Am still on my first charge and expect the battery to reach it's full potential (another pun) after a couple of charges. So far am very pleased with value of this battery and the charge it holds.
Could you maybe post some pics on how thick your hero is with the new battery
does a 3000Ma battery can do a damage to the phone?
if it doesn't, why everyone dont buy it?
Bit difficult for me to take photos at the moment, my camera is mounted up for my work and takes ages to set back up. The battery cover adds about 6mm to the depth of the phone in an area equal to the size of the battery. I actually have big hands and find it more comfortable to hold than the standard cover.
dany_my said:
does a 3000Ma battery can do a damage to the phone?
if it doesn't, why everyone dont buy it?
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Click to collapse
3000mAh is the capacity of the battery it should run for longer, not the voltage supplied so no damage should occur. The problem comes with quality control on aftermarket batteries, they can be of lower capacity than a standard battery, despite claims of a higher capacity.
There have also been cases of aftermarket batteries overheating and expoding, it is rare but can happen. I bought the battery as an experiment to see if it lived up to the claims and am prepared to take the small risk of serious hazards with the battery. In the end it's down to paying for a name and strict quality control, Kellogs Cornflakes or Unbranded Breakfast Crunchies.
The large capacity battery's make your phone fat and ugly
I rather work with 20 hours of total battery life with a beautiful piece of kit, then to run 40 hours with an ugly 80's looking fatso.
JanSchotsmans said:
The large capacity battery's make your phone fat and ugly
I rather work with 20 hours of total battery life with a beautiful piece of kit, then to run 40 hours with an ugly 80's looking fatso.
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Click to collapse
I don't mind having a fat and ugly phone, it tends to be topic of conversation and draws attention away from the very similar owner in my case
feedback please
I agree u don't mind having a thick phone ad long ad its safe and gives more power so pleas to those who have bought this battery can you please provide link to page and please any feedback on this battery is very much welcome
marvi0 said:
I agree u don't mind having a thick phone ad long ad its safe and gives more power so pleas to those who have bought this battery can you please provide link to page and please any feedback on this battery is very much welcome
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Am not sure on rules about posting links to retailers, but here it is http://www.oddsandpods.co.uk/hero-e...-replacement-back-cover-p-120.html#googlebase if anyone objects please PM me and will remove the link
If you enter FP code in the checkout you will get Free Postage
One thing I have noticed about charging this battery, is that the indicator will show battery as fully charged. I found that giving an extra hour after fully charged is shown will give a much better charge. So far the battery will give a good 36Hrs with Wifi continually on, haven't tried it with WiFi off for a long period, so far about 12hrs and it is still showing fully charged.
Thanks 13...
this was really helpful... i will go ahead and buy one
Has this battery worked good for you guys? No problems? I kind of need a bigger battery for the times I'm doing jobtravels etc. Earlier experiences in non original batteries are both good and bad. Bought a battery for my HTC Diamond, and the phone got fried. Don't wanna experience that again (even though my job buys me new phones when I need one)...
Just wanted to know you my experiences.
I have a 2600 mAh extended battery and my running time of the phone with enabled WiFi and Nimbuzz is about 48 hours. Without WiFi, pure Standby, is about 85-90 hours.
You need at least 10-15 recharge cycles to get the full capacity out from the battery.
Phanes said:
Just wanted to know you my experiences.
I have a 2600 mAh extended battery and my running time of the phone with enabled WiFi and Nimbuzz is about 48 hours. Without WiFi, pure Standby, is about 85-90 hours.
You need at least 10-15 recharge cycles to get the full capacity out from the battery.
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Sounds great. I might have to try one of these batteries. What battery did you buy?
I bought one of this too, off Ebay. Although the phone is a bit uglier and slightly heavier, the battery seems to last between 2 and 3 times as long. I gotta say it's totally been worth it. The extra size isn't that noticable either...most people look at the front, right?
Well i bought one and i rly dont like it.
Its almost a half centimeter bigger and allot heavier.
So be ware the phone does get ugly but you do get more battery power.
Tbh i rather recharge my phone everyday then make it so ugly
I've just ordered this battery.
Can any one give some real numbers? For example how long will it last with 3g network active. I bought this one for outdoor activities when I can't recharge for a few days and I would like to know how many days I can depend on it.
Thanks!
I rooted my phone and tweaked the crap out of it.
Runs 48 hours with standard battery now.
No need for fat and ugly
I have this battery + cover too.
Because it's bigger, I find it easier to press the hardware buttons on the bottom of the front of the Hero. THe only drawback is the total volume in your pocket, but that's just a minor point.
Also, flashing Modaco's 3.1 Rom and the newest RADIO Rom, the phone lasts for about 6-7 days with normal use (wifi/3g on when i need it, some regular phonecalls/texts)
A DITTY
Batteries, batteries everywhere and yet not an amp hour to spare. Tiny brains draining power, to die so soon - despair!
THE LIES WE TELL OURSELVES
The posters initial claims of " I got 50 hours of moderated use! " is sure to degenerate into " umm well it was cheap and it will make a good backup battery at least. " How can you respond to that? I mean, I for one was pulling for the guy to best the odds... What response could be appropriate... "Hey, don't move let me kick you in the head while your down".... Just doesn't seem nice.
IMPROVEMENT
The Samsung captivate came with a 1500 mAh oem battery... a 1800 mAh oem was latter released for a sister phone and while a little thicker than the original, it still fit into the captivate original back and all... Sweet!
A MOTHERS LOVE
The problem is that for most of us battery testing is too subjective to provide useful information. My "moderate use" is your "heavy"... It's as useful as comparing how much our mothers love us.
D=M/V (DENSITY=MASS/VOLUME)
So what can we do? How can you objectively test your new ebay battery and immediately know you got ripped off? Well my friend you put it on a gram scale. Let me show you how this works using the two aforementioned captivate batteries(# 1.. 1500 and #2. 1800 mAh) , the Samsung oem note battery, and a Hyperion aftermarket battery (#3. 2500 and # 4.. 2600 mAh).
Results
#1. 30g
#2. 36g
There is a six gram difference between the lower and 300 mAh higher capacity Samsung batteries, a finding consistent with expectations. The slight increase in the volume of the #2 battery also indicates that the energy density for both of them is much the same... Now on to the S-note batteries!
#3. 50g
#4. 40g
The Samsung battery weighs a full ten grams more than its higher rated Hyperion replacement. Its lighter weight simply does not pack the mass to back up its big claims... It comes as no surprise that few long term users of the Hyperion are claiming the better than stock battery results they should experience, given manufacturer claims...
CONCLUSIONS
You can objectively test inflated power claims by aggressive aftermarket battery manufacturers.
CONTRIBUTE
Use a simple gram scale to help quantify the potential of battery claims. If you really want to nail it down use a vacuum packer seal the battery and measure its volume through displacement..Bonus, save the results and your kid has his/her next science fair project!
POST YOUR RESULTS
If we share our respective findings here, we can help each other make better informed choices. Xda really is great.
YOUR MOTHER
I am sure she loves you very much!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
The way to properly test the battery is to do a factory reset so no custom apps are installed and then do the following:
1. Power down the phone and allow the battery to fully charge with the phone OFF. Then boot the phone keeping the power plugged in.
2. Turn all the radios on
3. Turn the screen brightness to max
4. Install an app that logs battery levels (I use battery monitor by 3C)
5. Loop a video until the battery dies (unplug the power AFTER you start playing the video)
5a. An alternate method is to loop a benchmark test until the battery dies
This is how the pros do it anyway...
Lw thanks for your response... The testing process you outlined is indeed an excellent procedure.
The only problem it presents is that few, besides the pros and yourself, seem to be willing to take the time needed to test every battery they run across.
I was able to test 4 batteries in less time than it would take to setup your phone to implement the test you've outlined...
A truly professional approach to the battery capacity was demonstrated in a captivate thread. The posters built a test to charge and drain every battery through multiple cycles. The details that were posted provided details far in excess of anything your proposed testing procedure is able to offer.
The captivate battery thread included plans for his battery testing rig, if you are interested and have the time I could probably find the link for you... I would be interested in your shared results.
The advantage my procedure offers is that it does not require modification of phone followed by an extended four hour testing sequence...
My procedure is definitely not for the pros with lots and lots of time, it took me four minutes to test four batteries... That's 1minute per battery...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
As most probably know, ever since 2.2 was released, motorola phones refuse to work with aftermarket batteries (even if they worked just fine on 2.1). I've spent hours searching the net, tons of people with this issue, but haven't found a single solution. Everyone just gives up and buys an OEM battery (while I don't mind paying a bit more for one, I would like to use the 2300mAh model I bought... assuming the extra capacity isn't a straight lie).
Has no-one been able to solve this yet? No patch that removes this greed-driven move by moto?
+1 I wonder of someone could calibrate drivers/hardware to make the os see past 1930mah batteries. My 4800mah battery goes uncalibrated until then
You mean to say your monster battery actually work? As in, your moto at least accepts it (allows it to charge)?
Yes however... it will work from dead to charge to like 3.8v (100%) and continues to charge till 4.205v then drain to about 3.7-3.8v its at 1%. I can continue to use the phone till the battery is at 3.3-3.45v and its dead. Something about the onboard if chip that makes for no more than 1930-2300mah on the "recognized/actual" current values. This makes for no more than half of your battery from 1-100% and rest is looking at voltage and guessing last half till near bottom voltage to guess where/when it might die. I have a post. Google "4800 Mugen atrix battery xda" its post number 1.
you'll see what I mean.
Hm... some more reading seems to suggest that SOME aftermarket batteries are OK, like Mugen. I would guess they paid for authorization by Moto. One other post claimed this isn't happening for all providers, but I suspect that just a case of staggered OTA rollout times.
I'm having a hard time believing there isn't more interest and work on this issue. It strikes me as the kind of thing that would raise alot of hackles in an open source community especially. But so far every thread I've seen ends with the person just giving up.
Just picked up a new replacement battery for the G3, will test and see how much longer this supposedly "3800" rating is...=)
ZiCott said:
Just picked up a new replacement battery for the G3, will test and see how much longer this supposedly "3800" rating is...=)
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good luck budy...i hope your phone dont die or that battery dont explode...is a well known battery and some people have a lot of problems with that...
i dont recomend that kind of battery...is way better spend more 5/10 bucks for original one and have two battery's.
anyway, good luck!!
Really interested in seeing the results as well. I have been looking for a slim battery that will last me through the whole day easily.
Yes, I'm also very curious!
When I was looking for spare batteries I've seen this one but I did not trust is because of the big capacity increase...
Let us now how it works out!
My SOT is so bad. I just installed a mod to increase the battery life. Let's hope that works.
Found review for the one OP posted. Does not look that good. There is another one here with so-so review.
AnTuTu Battery Results....
After my second full charge, i ran the AnTuTu Battery Tester, and lets just say it didnt like this battery at all. I will continue to use it for the rest of the week, and see how it performs on a more with my normal day-to-day usage. I will also post another benchmark on the original battery after a full year of usage, and see how it compares to the new one.
LG Battery History....
...this is the screen shot from the Battery Widget, on the Battery History, when the AnTuTu Battery Benchmark was running, so it looks like only getting around 2+ hours....
Don't believe what the knock off batteries say. There's no way they can fit more battery into the same size as the original without dumping millions into R&D to create a new type of battery.
....after a week of usage, buyer beware...lol, you get what you pay for I guess. really just a sub-par battery, and I will now be using as power bank replacement...and continue using the ORIGINAL battery which came with the device...lol, $9 for a power bank ok i guess... Just Buy the Real Stuff people.
ZiCott said:
....after a week of usage, buyer beware...lol, you get what you pay for I guess. really just a sub-par battery, and I will now be using as power bank replacement...and continue using the ORIGINAL battery which came with the device...lol, $9 for a power bank ok i guess... Just Buy the Real Stuff people.
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Yeeeeeep, the cheapo batteries off ebay always overstate the mah of the battery, and after a few months begin to degrade very rapidly, and your battery life will be worse.
KiNG OMaR said:
Don't believe what the knock off batteries say. There's no way they can fit more battery into the same size as the original without dumping millions into R&D to create a new type of battery.
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Hi, thats not correct. First, the companys dont invest millions in this batterys. We have the same technic in the g4 as it was in the g2.
Second, sure its possible to get more mah in a pack with the same size.
To get more with the same size, the distance between the celles get smaller.
So they bring in more cells in the same size.
But the problem is that 500mah is nothing.
With standard 3000mah we take a number of 3 hours SOT.
If we count simple, we get from 500mah the power for only 30min.
To get the full power of a battery its recommend to make around 5 to 8 full loading phases. In this time the battery is the same or a little less than the original.
Is the loading phase complete, we get like count around 30min more.
If the screen is brighter or you write a sms more then normal the min go down.
So, i would say thats normaly its not measurable but its really more power inside.
I buy alwasy cheap batterys and had never problems. All manufacterer of batterys buy the cells from 3 or 4 big companies. Inside is all the same.
watch out guys!!!!
i have used cheape batteries from ebay amazon ect.......
after 2 batteries my motherboard died !!!! and even befor that my device have said many times battery invailed and wont power on because the contact (piece tgat contact the battery and suply the power) wasn't recaching into the cheap battery
Hello,
I like the 6P so much I purchased a pair of used phones. One needs a battery and I found ifixit has no intention of ordering more battery replacement kits. Regardless, since one of my 6P's continues to run without issue I need to get the other operational. If anyone knows a person that is skilled at replacing the batteries in these phones please let me know. I am very concerned about letting someone else replace the battery in view of the steps that have to be performed. Damaging the lower plastic cover and upper glass plate seem far to easy to do...
Doesn't look that bad. As long as cheap replacement panels are available don't sweat it.
It has a AMOLED display so anhydrous isopropyl alcohol can be used if needed.
If who's ever doing it has the right tools, skillset and takes their time it should be easily doable.
I've watched all the battery replacement video's I could find and I saw this post regarding an extended battery on aliexpress w/2yr warranty. I just prefer to get more acceptance of this battery before buying it.
New higher capacity battery finished the shutting down problems and gives new life
Recently I replaced the battery of my Nexus 6P that was unusable in a cabinet for a long time due to the shutting down issues. I found on Aliexpress a high capacity battery and I decided to try my luck, changed the battery and I can tell you that...
forum.xda-developers.com
I also located the original Huawei battery and neither of my 6P's exhibited the power off at moderate battery charge levels so I think I'm clear of that problem. The goal is to use one of these for XDA dev and the other for UBports dev.
RVC46 said:
I've watched all the battery replacement video's I could find and I saw this post regarding an extended battery on aliexpress w/2yr warranty. I just prefer to get more acceptance of this battery before buying it.
New higher capacity battery finished the shutting down problems and gives new life
Recently I replaced the battery of my Nexus 6P that was unusable in a cabinet for a long time due to the shutting down issues. I found on Aliexpress a high capacity battery and I decided to try my luck, changed the battery and I can tell you that...
forum.xda-developers.com
I also located the original Huawei battery and neither of my 6P's exhibited the power off at moderate battery charge levels so I think I'm clear of that problem. The goal is to use one of these for XDA dev and the other for UBports dev.
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Click to collapse
Get the exact OEM replacement if possible. Forget the extra high capacity bs.
The manufacturer generally make the OEM batteries as big as they can. Some of the trade offs for a higher capacity battery the same size may be safety.
Thanks for the confirmation on this. I suspected I was on the right track with OEM. I also found the replacement plastic cover on the lower back cover if it becomes necessary to place it.
I may have found the OEM battery at aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002262537684.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.449a363dHBm8Xi&algo_pvid=483efaef-fc3e-4641-96a0-1fc1d109ae5f&algo_exp_id=483efaef-fc3e-4641-96a0-1fc1d109ae5f-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000019802398066%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B10.68%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BUSD%3Bsearch-mainSearch
However, I emailed Huawei to see if I could get correct information from them before acting. I'll post the response from Huawei if I receive one.