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Hi all,
Ok, so i've had a small disaster. As you probably guessed already i've dropped my phone. I thought the story was quite amusing (or just plain unfortunate!) so i'll you tell that before I ask for some advice!!
I got myself a white Galaxy S2 on upgrade through Vodafone. Gorgeous piece of kit so I ordered myself a nice case and screen protector to keep it nice and tidy.
Unfortunately the case got 'lost in the post' and as such the phone was unprotected. So, with some foresight I ordered a plain white cheap one off eBay (£2 inc. postage) just to see me through the 3-5 days I needed before the case I wanted was resent.
However what was sent what not white at all - it was the most hideous case with a rather disgusting floral effect all over it. I was going out for a night in town and had no choice, I had to take it with me.
Unfortunately later that eve I was stood at the bar, and my phone went off. So to save any embarrassment I slid the phone out of it's hideous case, and proceeded to read the message. Then it happened. The slippery son of a ***** jumped out of my hand, bounced off my foot and hit the deck.
It only has a couple of dings in the chrome bezel (the chrome effect rubbed off in two places to reveal black (the plating is obviously really thin)) - everything else was ok. Phew. But i'm still gutted and annoyed with myself
So, lesson learnt. I should have left the disgusting garish floral case on and it would have saved my phone. It was only 'de-sheathed' for a second and I managed to drop it, classic.
As a temporary solution, I coloured in the affected areas of the bezel with a silver permanent marker, and used some clear nail varnish over the top to stop the pen coming off. It seems to work well actually, and it looks much better than the black marks.
So, to my question - how do I change the chrome bezel for a new one?
I have read many threads, and watched many videos, and it looks to me like a nightmare job (eg as well as taking off the back and all components, you have to prise off the screen which is glued on, disconnect digitiser, etc). Can anyone confirm this, or has anyone tried it?
I can't find any videos of changing the bezel - they all seem to only go as far as taking off the back.
I've found a couple of sellers which sell the housing in white for only £20-30, so if it's an easy-ish job i'd have a stab at it. However i'm thinking I might as well just forget it ever happened and not be so precious about keeping the phone in A1 condition - it's a phone after all and it's going to encounter some scrapes now and then, even with a case on. And I plan on keeping it for 18 months anyway.
Opinions, anyone?
Cheers!
Movisman said:
Hi all,
Ok, so i've had a small disaster. As you probably guessed already i've dropped my phone. I thought the story was quite amusing (or just plain unfortunate!) so i'll you tell that before I ask for some advice!!
I got myself a white Galaxy S2 on upgrade through Vodafone. Gorgeous piece of kit so I ordered myself a nice case and screen protector to keep it nice and tidy.
Unfortunately the case got 'lost in the post' and as such the phone was unprotected. So, with some foresight I ordered a plain white cheap one off eBay (£2 inc. postage) just to see me through the 3-5 days I needed before the case I wanted was resent.
However what was sent what not white at all - it was the most hideous case with a rather disgusting floral effect all over it. I was going out for a night in town and had no choice, I had to take it with me.
Unfortunately later that eve I was stood at the bar, and my phone went off. So to save any embarrassment I slid the phone out of it's hideous case, and proceeded to read the message. Then it happened. The slippery son of a ***** jumped out of my hand, bounced off my foot and hit the deck.
It only has a couple of dings in the chrome bezel (the chrome effect rubbed off in two places to reveal black (the plating is obviously really thin)) - everything else was ok. Phew. But i'm still gutted and annoyed with myself
So, lesson learnt. I should have left the disgusting garish floral case on and it would have saved my phone. It was only 'de-sheathed' for a second and I managed to drop it, classic.
As a temporary solution, I coloured in the affected areas of the bezel with a silver permanent marker, and used some clear nail varnish over the top to stop the pen coming off. It seems to work well actually, and it looks much better than the black marks.
So, to my question - how do I change the chrome bezel for a new one?
I have read many threads, and watched many videos, and it looks to me like a nightmare job (eg as well as taking off the back and all components, you have to prise off the screen which is glued on, disconnect digitiser, etc). Can anyone confirm this, or has anyone tried it?
I can't find any videos of changing the bezel - they all seem to only go as far as taking off the back.
I've found a couple of sellers which sell the housing in white for only £20-30, so if it's an easy-ish job i'd have a stab at it. However i'm thinking I might as well just forget it ever happened and not be so precious about keeping the phone in A1 condition - it's a phone after all and it's going to encounter some scrapes now and then, even with a case on. And I plan on keeping it for 18 months anyway.
Opinions, anyone?
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to hear...similar happened to my HTC Desire...however this should help...if you buy the kit off Ebay...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1253969
0semaj0 said:
Sorry to hear...similar happened to my HTC Desire...however this should help...if you buy the kit off Ebay...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1253969
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Thanks for the information - I had a look at this tutorial yesterday, and although it's very good, it looks like this person has replaced the entire led panel/digitiser/housing in one go, rather than just the housing?
My screen is just fine, so I only need to replace the housing part.
The hardest bit looks like separating the screen from the housing from what i've read, and this is what I can't find a tutorial for, only some images on youtube suggesting to use a hairdryer to help with the proceedings!!
Thanks
Movisman said:
Hi,
Thanks for the information - I had a look at this tutorial yesterday, and although it's very good, it looks like this person has replaced the entire led panel/digitiser/housing in one go, rather than just the housing?
My screen is just fine, so I only need to replace the housing part.
The hardest bit looks like separating the screen from the housing from what i've read, and this is what I can't find a tutorial for, only some images on youtube suggesting to use a hairdryer to help with the proceedings!!
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, the link is for the whole unit, but would give you some pointers. I am not as familar with the Samsung build, but with the HTC I know that between the LCD housing and the LCD/digitiser itself is applied through adhesive (most phones are) that is put into a temperature oven for 10 minutes to soften the adhesive. This is based on the HTC Official Service videos. I am not sure if the same will apply to Samsung phones.
But then again, as it is an expensive phone, it may be ideal for you to also get a quote from your local SSC or mobile phone repair agent to consider.
0semaj0 said:
Yea, the link is for the whole unit, but would give you some pointers. I am not as familar with the Samsung build, but with the HTC I know that between the LCD housing and the LCD/digitiser itself is applied through adhesive (most phones are) that is put into a temperature oven for 10 minutes to soften the adhesive. This is based on the HTC Official Service videos. I am not sure if the same will apply to Samsung phones.
But then again, as it is an expensive phone, it may be ideal for you to also get a quote from your local SSC or mobile phone repair agent to consider.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, good point. I'd be interested to hear actually what the cost would be to replace the front bezel only. It's only £30 on eBay for the front and rear housing, but i'd be willing to pay more on top for an authorised repairer to carry out the job.
That tutorial is definitely one of the more detailed ones I have seen so far though. Doesn't look like many people have tackled changing the bezel only...
Thanks
Movisman said:
Yep, good point. I'd be interested to hear actually what the cost would be to replace the front bezel only. It's only £30 on eBay for the front and rear housing, but i'd be willing to pay more on top for an authorised repairer to carry out the job.
That tutorial is definitely one of the more detailed ones I have seen so far though. Doesn't look like many people have tackled changing the bezel only...
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Movis,
What did you end up doing for your dropped phone?
I too have dropped my phone on its corner and the chrome along with the plastic is now dented.
Another one with the same problem here. I managed to create a bump on the chrome bezel.
Can I bump this post as I've also just noticed a ding in the corner of the chrome bezel was wondering if anyone had found a solution to this yet.? short of replacing the LCD/digitiser which like OPs phone are working fine. It's just cosmetic damage.
I once was in a bad mood and snapped a screen and backing/housing in half.I can't remember exactly,but I'm thinking the chrome bit may be part of the thin metal casing/housing that is glue taped onto the screen.
You separate the screen from the housing by using a hot air gun sparingly.
If you look back at a motherboard thread I was involved in,a person on here called Roger put up a great video tutorial link that may answer all your questions...
Sent from my GT-I9100
Ah cheers for the reply. Had a look at the mobo post you were involved in followed it to the link and coincidentally that's the exact video I watched last night. Very good video good detail and instructions. But its the black one he is stripping down so he makes no reference to the bezel which afaik is only used on the white ones.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
I've not seen the chrome bit listed separately,so I guess its part of the metal top housing that the LCD is glued to.I've got a white one and its got a ding on it too.
You could email Samsung to see if you can get the part,but I think its not worth risking cracking the screen and you probably couldn't resuse / would get that stupid gluey tape stuff.
Sent from my GT-I9100
Appreciate it's been a while, but this seems to be the only post that matches what happened to me, so figured I'd update with my experience.
As above, dropped and dented the bezel, screen was perfectly intact, but the dent was so severe, it actually lifted a corner of my screen up. I have intentions to sell on so I wanted to fix this and pass on.
I followed this disassembly , apart from the bit about not worrying about damaging the screen as you prise it away. The housing I ordered off ebay came with a little kit, so I warmed the screen with hairdryer for a couple of minutes, then slowly prised it away, from top to bottom, inserting the tool right down the middle as the video mentions there is a large adhesive right down the middle.
Following the vid all the way to the removal of all components, this is where I ditched my current bezel/housing and reassembled into the newly ordered one. Judging by the assembly, there is no way that a bezel could be replaced without replacing the housing, it's one whole unit, and I very much doubt the build would be that drastically different for the white SGS2.
Some things to note:
Be very careful removing the vibrate motor, the connector and natural pivot point is the weakest part (new module ordered from ebay
If you are transplanting the screen like me, have some adhesive pads in your kit as most tutorials are for new screens, and as can be seen on the vid, these come with pads intact, ready to apply
Try do it in daylight
Hope that helps anyone in a similar situation.
vyks10 said:
Appreciate it's been a while, but this seems to be the only post that matches what happened to me, so figured I'd update with my experience.
As above, dropped and dented the bezel, screen was perfectly intact, but the dent was so severe, it actually lifted a corner of my screen up. I have intentions to sell on so I wanted to fix this and pass on.
I followed this disassembly , apart from the bit about not worrying about damaging the screen as you prise it away. The housing I ordered off ebay came with a little kit, so I warmed the screen with hairdryer for a couple of minutes, then slowly prised it away, from top to bottom, inserting the tool right down the middle as the video mentions there is a large adhesive right down the middle.
Following the vid all the way to the removal of all components, this is where I ditched my current bezel/housing and reassembled into the newly ordered one. Judging by the assembly, there is no way that a bezel could be replaced without replacing the housing, it's one whole unit, and I very much doubt the build would be that drastically different for the white SGS2.
Some things to note:
Be very careful removing the vibrate motor, the connector and natural pivot point is the weakest part (new module ordered from ebay
If you are transplanting the screen like me, have some adhesive pads in your kit as most tutorials are for new screens, and as can be seen on the vid, these come with pads intact, ready to apply
Try do it in daylight
Hope that helps anyone in a similar situation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, will the heat actually damage the screen? I saw some posts mentioning about putting it into the oven and such. It sounded very intense but if it works without damaging the screen, i might give it a try. Facing the same situation as yours. Scratches and dents all over my front chrome bezel.
Do anyone has video or pdf or wtever guide to give the instruction how to disassemble the flyer?(i am thinking to repair the flyer myself) Thank you
Here you go:
www.techrepublic.com/photos/crackin...3?seq=2&tag=content;siu-container#photo-frame
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
athris said:
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there is a note in the techrepublic teardown about it being bonded like a smartphone. You should however be vary careful given the size of the screen more heat (not temperature) is required, and the risk of thermally cracking the underlying LCD panel is correspondingly higher.
Beware! Learn from my adventures.
So, I took apart my wife's HTC Flyer this past week to replace the screen. While the Techrepublic teardown shots are helpful, it's missing about ten steps at the end that involve actually removing the screen. I've messed around with tabletpc's and laptops before but not cell phones so wasn't really prepared for the fact that you have to pretty much take the whole Flyer apart in order to be able to get the screen off. As far as I can tell, no one else has documented taking one of these apart to replace the screen. I will write up something more involved when I get a chance but here's a couple things that I found out about the screen.
1. The part of the screen that you touch with your finger and stylus is not glass! It is a heavy plastic layer that is adhered to the glass digitizer. It is clear with the black around the edge and cutout for the HTC logo. This was the part of my screen that had chips in it. I tried to use a screen repair kit to repair the chips (which I did) but it took off the outer, darker finish in the process. So I moved to the next step, replacing the screen. I didn't know about the outer layer, otherwise that would have been much easier to replace. But, I don't think you can get that part unless you have connections with HTC.
2. The outer layer/digitizer glass comes as one part (along with the n-trig connector). I ordered mine for around $50 on ebay.
3. You will need to take the back off and much of the motherboard to be able to disconnect the n-trig connector.
4. Taking the screen off will take heat. I used a hair dryer but more heat could be better although you have to be careful of the lcd underneath. My digitizer broke while removing and ending up putting a small gouge in the lcd. I was able to fix the lcd well enough, just be careful.
5. HTC used a buttload of sticky tape to secure the glass to the lcd and case. My cheap blue pry tool quickly broke so I ended up using a plastic butter knife to separate digitizer from the case. Once off, I used Goo Be Gone to get rid of all the sticky tape from it. I'm ready to put new tape on but I'm not sure exactly what they used. Anyone have any ideas? It's a black, closed cell sticky tape that is really stringy when it comes to taking off. Most of the stuff I see for sale online seems to be really thin stuff. I picked up some Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape by 3M that looks to be similar that I am going to experiment with. Anyone know for sure what they used?
6. I put the new digitizer on temporarily to check to see if it worked and it did (yay)! But I still need need to cut all of the tape and put it in the right spot. There are also these little plastic tabs that go on the backside of the screen. They are used to refract light from the led's to light up the outside navigation buttons. Be careful not to lose these. I did, and had to make one. We'll see how I did once I get it back together.
7. I found that there's not a lot of parts out there for these things. At least not compared to cell phones. Now that they're being discontinued, I don't know if that is going to help.
Anyway, I took a few pics along the way and will try to write something up when I get more time. I just wanted to give folks a heads-up on the screen and how it's put together. I can't imagine the View's screen is any different. So whatever they're using for the outer layer isn't Gorilla Glass. Or is it?
UPDATE:
Here are the promised photos of this disaster. I'll add the commentary tomorrow (I'm tired).
Two more comments and I can finally upload my photos.
I need to replace my LCD and Glass...anyone know where I can order these parts...I cant find them anywhere.
Hard to find parts for the Flyer/View which could be a problem. Looks like some is selling an LCD, though on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PH-LCD-HT-2...360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bf8f0390 from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
I purchased mine here and it works great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260906551668?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Much better price. What kind of tape did you use? Also did you have to replace any of the light reflacting plastic tabs that are used to light the buttons around the outside of the digitizer?
Sent from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
Will a replacement screen for the Flyer work well on a View?
I don't see why not. Except for some of the internals, they are pretty much identical hardware wise.
Hi,
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).
Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
Continued...
SUMMARY/LEARNING:
- IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE
- IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!
- WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)
- WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Happened to me too!
Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.
So what have i learned from this?
1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)
Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
ThomasKJ said:
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be stouchscreenupported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have exact same problem with the touchscreen. X-AXIS is reverted but not fully, touchscreen works off pressing like a mirror on the left to the right.
I'ts video youtu.be/XUN_0q5I4ng
my touchscreen partnumber is same.
Сould you upload photos of the touchscreen cables differences between what you had originally and those that worked not correctly?
Where did you find the part number for the digitzer? Is it near the tiny QR code, or on it?
I have the same problem x-axis is reverted. Still wonder why? The original broken glass/digitizer was working fine.
Please share if you guys found the solution. I will do it too.
Thank!
Theres a vid about this. i will post it soon. i'm only using my phone. my prime is with my dad in china. i dont know when i'm getting it back in 2 or mor week i guess? surely i'll be noob again when i get it back.
I have the same problem too. Broken digitizer & lcd.. Got a replacement digitizer and the x-axis was inverted, sent it back and got the full refund.
After that i texted a few mails with another seller that knows the problem, he told me there are two versions of digitizers for the tf201. He sent out the (i hope) right one today, I will post the seller if this one works (takes about two weeks to get it..)
OP started this thread in another forum I found via google search where some guy figured out how to fix the x-axis problem by changing something in the source.. however I think he will release a patch after some more testing but he can't test right now because he has no lcd atm. Here's the thread:
bit.ly/OXx6us (hope it's allowed to post this)
same thing
I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.
I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)
Here is my video:
digitizer on the way from China
Any one find a solution for this yet?
I have a digitizer on the way from China.
Just a bump to catch someones attention I hope.
I'm waiting to hear from someone if they found a supplier that will send the right screen, or if they know how to compile the kernel to make the screwed up screens work right.
Kind of holding off ordering mine at the moment.
All of a sudden there are a lot of these for sale on Ebay.
And there hasn't been much chatter on defective ones lately.
Makes me wonder if it was just a specific seller that had a bad batch.
Caught a guy trying to sell his TF201 with a broken LCD that he claims broke while replacing the digitizer.
Turns out he is trying to sell his with one of the inverted digitizers and not stating so in the auction.
I ordered a replacement from New Jersy and canceled the one from china I will see what happens when it gets here.
I will definately test it before I tape it down.
If it works let me know. I'm in Canada and would rather pay a bit more for a properly working one than some knockoff that I have to be a programmer to get working.
Any news on your replacement yet?
Nightpath said:
Any news on your replacement yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my second replacement-digitizer and it's inverted too.. so frustrating!
As there are so many people with this problem I hope some expierienced guy will take a look at the touchscreen-driver and post a little workaround. It is possible to fix this problem by editing the driver but I don't know how it exactly has to be done.
I will share my problem.
My screen broke, however, the LCD and touch still worked.
I ordered a new screen for ASUS authorized service, because using a tablet with a cracked screen is horrible.
I thought it would be posted only the digitizer, but no, the Asus offers LCD screen with digitizer, it is not necessary to work to separate the two parts.
A professional did the replacement.
The problem is that the new set is crazy.
When the tablet is horizontal | === |,
* think that is vertically
| = |
| = |
* and otherwise also.
I think I was unlucky.
* I'm about to order a new set, this time, buy direct from asusparts.eu
Hmmm...where exactly did you order your first digitizer (touchscreen)? And that site you linked sucks, no pictures of any of the items to make sure you're getting the right one.
Received mine yesterday, [email protected]#$** piece of crap!!
It is inverted,it is going back.
First they wanted to give me a discount to keep it, idiots!
Then theyy want to send me another in exchange, they don't seem to understand the problem is they are all going to be the same if they are from the same batch.
Any one found a source for a good one yet?
I am going to try and see if Asus will sell them directly to the end user.
They sell laptop parts, so maybe they will do a digitizer.
I'll post my findings.
Cool. I work long days here in Canada (military, sigh) so I don't get much of a chance to do anything. Let me know as soon as you find out TRJ
So I dropped my phone today, and it must have fell on the corner good enough that it cracked the screen from the top-left to the middle-right.
Going to replace the digitizer/LCD as a combo since it's a bit easier than replacing just the digitizer.
Ordered this today:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350582267363?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Watched a couple of the repair videos (specifically this one: http://blog.repairsuniverse.net/how-to-fix-htc-rezound-screen/), and they say that there's adhesive on the back of this assembly as well that you need to pry away from (in the previously linked video, they push the assembly away from the housing from the backside and pry away from the housing/adhesive). My question is... am I going to have to replace this adhesive once I pry the assembly away from the housing? Or should the adhesive that's there be good enough to secure it as long as I don't rip it away very badly?
If I do need to get new adhesive, anybody have any links as to what to get?
Thanks in advance, I appreciate it!
I never replace a screen before. good luck
Bump.
Still haven't done this, as I haven't had time on the weekends yet. Got a GNexus to get me by, but I'm missing my Rezound.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
agentofchaos said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should be less tedious since I got the LCD/Digitizer assembly together, so I don't have to replace just the digitizer.
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
OpAckTool said:
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up.
Swapped out the screen (didn't get any 3M tape yet, but I wanted to make sure the screen worked properly / multi-touch was recognized everywhere).
Swapped the screens, re-assembled (managed to leave some adhesive where the lcd/digitizer assembly pulls out of on there, so it sticks, but like what happens with you it flexes just a bit. Will probably order some 3M tape one of these days and take off all of the old adhesive and replace it. Glad you mentioned the issue with the camera getting stuck in the housing; that did happen to me, and I had to work it out of there. The tiny LED board did pop out of it's connector, but I popped it back in easily and it still works fine.
I also didn't put the soft-key light tabs in the new LCD/digitizer (like you said, didn't want to pry the new one apart). Doesn't bother me much anyway, as I had them turned off in my ROM anyway lol.
So far it works well. Won't be my daily again yet until I have some 3M tape to put on there so the assembly is secured in the housing.
Just an update. Got some double-sided tape, and scraped off the old, remnants of the previous tape that was there. Cut new strips to fit where the old ones were, and it fits much more securely now. No screen flex or wiggle anymore. Charging it back up, and thinking about flashing a different ROM now that I have it fixed.
All-in-all, it was a pretty easy fix.
Hi guys, I hope this section is the right one for my kind of question, this would be all hardware issues mostly.
I just replaced a screen for the samsung galaxy s2 GT-I9100M, screen is looking good, everything works fine, however, since I did a screen swap from another phone, I did not have any of the double sided glue to, I guess, hold it in place. As of now, my screen is slowly popping out from one corner ever so slightly that I can see light bleeding through the gap it makes with the frame. I just want to confirm is this is only due to just me not having double sided glue alone the back that the screen is placed on. I ordered some d.s tape as I thought it would help me, should be coming later.
Secondly, I noticed that just sometimes the screen wouldn't be as responsive, sometimes touches won't register unless I press just a bit. Would this be because the top glass is a little loose? (due to no tape?). I was wondering if someone can explain to me how the touch inputs actually works. Do you only need to the glass or does the glass have to be close to the LCD for it to register as a touch input. Because if that's the case, then I suppose having the d.s tape can solve all my problems.
Any advice or suggestions will be appreciated! Thanks a lot. I'm repairing a phone for a friend and its a surprise. : )