So I performed pretty much a full teardown. I left the screen in the front of the case, because I didn't really see a point in taking it off.
I had an Otterbox Defender before, but I took it back to Best Buy and picked up the Platinum Surface Case (Blue), so that is in one of the pictures. Everything else is stock.
Anyway, on with the information!
--------------------------------------------------------------
The Camera button is loose! I found out why! The metal bar that runs below the button and the switch is only held in place with two screws that are on the far ends of the button and switch.
When you press down, the button actually bends the bar slightly before pressing fully. When I pressed the button in, it would feel like there were two clicks. Apparently the first click was just the metal button pressing down and touching the actual button (on the chip), and the second click was the actual button press.
I implemented the most ghetto fix ever for this (insert your jokes here). I literally took two thin cuts of packaging cardboard (from a super-glue box), and taped them together. They were about 1/16" thick each, so total it ended up just over 1/8" thick. Then it just rests in-between the metal beam, and the back plate for the phone (the piece the battery rests in). I was thinking of soldering something on, but then it would be a permanent change to the phone, which I didn't want.
The button on my phone is now rock-solid, and doesn't move at all unless pressed in. It now feels solid to the touch, and the only press that happens is the actual camera press. It feels much better now with this, but it makes me laugh to think of how I fixed it.
Chips on the board(s), in order of location. Each / represents a new line on the chips.
*Note: Not all chips are clearly labeled or easily identified.
Back of board - Facing up when looking at the phone face down
Top left chip (small chip):
AVAG0 / AFEM-S257 / P1121 / 60HG
Left chip (big chip middle left):
Samsung 119 / KMKLL[Can't make out letters here because of gold blob]UM-B406 / FDCA009B
Right bottom chip:
TPS / 65051 / TI 141 / A1D0
Right top chip:
ATMEL / MXT224 / C12QS509 / f2X774.1E
Front of board - Facing down when looking at the phone face down
*Note - The layout of the chips will be reversed if the board is still facing down. The layout is when the board is flipped over so you can actually see it.
Left chip:
PMM8160 / A10025.1 / F7117001
Top right chip:
SEQUANS / Communications / SQN1210 / PAN279.00.S 1 / 1121 / SGP
Also on this chip there is a circle with "e1" in it, and a rectangle with "G" in it.
Bottom right chip:
QUALCOMM / MSM8660 / BAU215.0 / C1119101
I believe the chip for the wifi is on the bottom of the phone? I could be wrong, might be GPS.
Front:
50H00649-32M-A / 2011/03/23
Back:
UT0020 C / 94V-0 / 1118
Chips attached to dual cameras
Small chip furthest away from cams:
6U7476 / 1091
Middle chip (biggest one):
1110 3M / SHARP / LR388G92 / JAPAN
Sticker in-between cams:
S100HA / 43035
Front LED and Front Camera chips
Small chip near camera:
168E6P / 1980
Big chip on side:
50H20371-51M-A 12 / 03/24/2011
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no idea if this information will help anyone with anything, but there it is. I tried to include as much detail as possible when I was looking at the chips and information on the boards.
Unmodified Pictures (Hosted on 4shared) all here: http://www.4shared.com/folder/2Ya7fS9_/FullPics.html
*Warning - Photos are not even shrunk in size. They are big pictures! 4608x3456
Modified Pictures (Hosted on 4shared) all here: http://www.4shared.com/folder/a8ndxVF0/ModifiedPics.html
*Note that these are all the pictures that are shown
Sorry about the images being hosted like this. I can only upload 8 pictures for attachments. I figured this would be the easiest method.
You can see them in a bigger size by clicking the picture you want to see.
These are out of order. They are in alphabetical order, not teardown order. Only one out of alphabetical order is the first one.
heh..so this is whatudoin
you couldn't zip those pics up on 4shared ..wow 3 pages ..lol
j/k
Lol I like how you point out Samsung hardware is in the 3d. :b good job. Now put it back together just how you got it! Or I'm telling mom
sent from my beasto 3d
Great pics thanks for posting them.
I get were your coming from on pad out but a little taken off on directions.
hmm I will hold tight for breakdown video that will show different angles of project.
sling said:
Great pics thanks for posting them.
I get were your coming from on pad out but a little taken off on directions.
hmm I will hold tight for breakdown video that will show different angles of project.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is about the easiest thing ever.
It is literally like this:
Camera button
Metal bar
Little ghetto fix
Back piece plastic
There is nothing in-between, and nothing holding it there other than the pressure of the case squeezing it. I didn't want to permanently modify the case. It's just a two pieces of packing cardboard taped together, but anything could be used.
It sits behind where the button is pressed, so it couldn't possibly interfere with the button, and it sits under the back plate of the phone, so it can be taken out if you just pop the back plate off.
Harfainx said:
It is about the easiest thing ever.
It is literally like this:
Camera button
Metal bar
Little ghetto fix
Back piece plastic
There is nothing in-between, and nothing holding it there other than the pressure of the case squeezing it. I didn't want to permanently modify the case. It's just a two pieces of packing cardboard taped together, but anything could be used.
It sits behind where the button is pressed, so it couldn't possibly interfere with the button, and it sits under the back plate of the phone, so it can be taken out if you just pop the back plate off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ha ok I see were your coming from in pic.
Was the back cover tricky difficult to detach?
sling said:
Was the back cover tricky difficult to detach?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take the back cover off, battery out, SD card out.
Size T5 Torx screwdriver for the 4 corner screws, 2 NO:000 phillips-head screws for the middle two.
Then take a credit card and run it around the corners, and they just pop loose.
You shouldn't have to apply any force to remove it.
To do it though, you do have to break the little "security seal" that's on the bottom right torx screw. They put it there so they can tell if someone has opened up their phone.
Harfainx said:
Take the back cover off, battery out, SD card out.
Size T5 Torx screwdriver for the 4 corner screws, 2 NO:000 phillips-head screws for the middle two.
Then take a credit card and run it around the corners, and they just pop loose.
You shouldn't have to apply any force to remove it.
To do it though, you do have to break the little "security seal" that's on the bottom right torx screw. They put it there so they can tell if someone has opened up their phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right on thanks much.
Ive owned mine for 2 days & have 7 day disassemble rule so next week I will get it done.
I was under the impression there was supposed to be 2 clicks with the camera button anyway. the first click focus's the camera and the second takes the photo.
Am I missing something?
btw, wish you would of looked a lil more at the 3d-2d switch and seen the reasoning for its loose play front to back. The thing is tight switching from top to bottom(3d->2D) but has lotta play front to back it seems.
sweet pics though, thanks for the tear down!
I'm pretty sure that the two click system was intentional...
First click is focus, second is take photo.
Lintrix said:
I'm pretty sure that the two click system was intentional...
First click is focus, second is take photo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sgt. slaughter said:
I was under the impression there was supposed to be 2 clicks with the camera button anyway. the first click focus's the camera and the second takes the photo.
Am I missing something?
btw, wish you would of looked a lil more at the 3d-2d switch and seen the reasoning for its loose play front to back. The thing is tight switching from top to bottom(3d->2D) but has lotta play front to back it seems.
sweet pics though, thanks for the tear down!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You 2 are correct, that 2 click system is there for a reason. One to focus and the 2nd to actually take the picture, much like all digital cameras.
Nice pics of the disassemble btw.
Lintrix said:
I'm pretty sure that the two click system was intentional...
First click is focus, second is take photo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be that way, but I feel like it's much more responsive now. Before it would be wobbly and take a few presses before it would actually work, or I'd have to hold the button for a bit. Now the button is much snappier.
The switch isn't loose at all now, it requires a bit of force to move the switch either way. There is a clear click sound whenever it gets pressed either way.
Harfainx said:
The switch isn't loose at all now, it requires a bit of force to move the switch either way. There is a clear click sound whenever it gets pressed either way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
/thumbs up/
I like that! Either way, Kudos on being a brave man to open her up and perform the surgery blind =P
Related
Hi,
Just a public service announcement, sharing the lesson the sales rep taught me the hard way when he aggressively tore the back off. It's very flimsy, which is alright, but the (aluminum?) bezel around the camera lens will bend where it has been weakened with holes for the speaker. So be sure to loosen all sides before taking it off, instead of just grabbing the bottom and yanking up.
-TM
BB sales or ?
It seems to me that (on mine) the back is particularly stubborn around the camera button and switch, that part always seems to require a bit more finess to release than the rest of the back. I suppose this is because that area doesn't have the same structural strength and the rest of back, since it lacks the "rim" there.
mevensen said:
It seems to me that (on mine) the back is particularly stubborn around the camera button and switch, that part always seems to require a bit more finess to release than the rest of the back. I suppose this is because that area doesn't have the same structural strength and the rest of back, since it lacks the "rim" there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After prying up the bottom, I just run my thumbnail along the opening to get all the sides to pop up.
Ugh, I don't understand why they make the back that much of a PITA to get off. My Touch Pro 2 has a nice and easy design. Press the middle of the back and slide down to remove and just slide/latch it back on when done. Made it super easy to swap batteries when needed.
I guess this is more like my wife's Samsung Restore. That's a PITA to remove as well. Feels like I'm gonna break it every time I try to remove it.
Size:
I've had it for a few weeks now, and I no longer feel the size of it. It almost feels like I might choose an even bigger one next time! But this is definately gonna be my daily driver for the next two years.
The back button is very hard to reach when I've got the phone in my right hand. Left-handed use is good, though.Sits nicely in the pocket of my jeans.
Chassis:
The front is gorgous, almost no bezel at all. I thought I would dislike capacative buttons, but they are no problem. The hole for the front camera is not perfectly aligned.
The back gets quite smudgy.
The power and volume buttons are so petite, they took some getting used to.
I don't like the placement of the audiojack and USB. If the audio was on the bottom I would be able to slip it into my pocket without changing my grip, but no go.
Call quality:
Yup, it's an issue. I'm gonna try to change my grip when I experience it.
Resolution:
Perfect for my eyes. I can not distinguish individual pixels.
Screen:
Very good colours and brightness. Blacks are always poor on LCD's, including this one.
Battery life:
Lasts me two days. Perfect.
I've come to believe that this:
The hole for the front camera is not perfectly aligned
is purposeful. There's some "lip" around the top portion of the hole, probably to help the light pattern in use patterns for front-facing cameras.
Now if you say that your "lip" is around the left, right, or bottom, *then* we have an issue . But I'm guessing yours is on the top also.
This is the first I'm hearing about the camera not being aligned... In practice, it works perfectly, and these things are designed with micrometers or even smaller units of measure: I don't think that misalignment is something that is likely to happen.
tai4de2 said:
I've come to believe that this:
The hole for the front camera is not perfectly aligned
is purposeful. There's some "lip" around the top portion of the hole, probably to help the light pattern in use patterns for front-facing cameras.
Now if you say that your "lip" is around the left, right, or bottom, *then* we have an issue . But I'm guessing yours is on the top also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the "lip" as you call it is on top of the hole, so I guess it's the same for everyone, and I'm prolly never gonna use the front camera anyways.
This is a topic which I don't really like to talk about, but I now want to take the approach to get it outa my mind: The backlight of my soft-key search button does not fully shut down. That is, if I let the phone sit until the lights of the soft-keys (home, menu, back- and search button) shut down, I still see a dimmed light behind my search button. It annoys me.. I know I'm a picky girl.
Is that a hardware failure or do you guys have that, too? I'm convinced it's NOT caused by my current ROM (running DisarmedToaster). Can you recommend an app which will test my phone for hardware failures?
I bought my EVO 3D with blood money and would not really like unrooting and putting the phone into original warranty state to go beg the company I bought it from for a replacement. Please help a desperate lady!
SecUpwN said:
This is a topic which I don't really like to talk about, but I now want to take the approach to get it outa my mind: The backlight of my soft-key search button does not fully shut down. That is, if I let the phone sit until the lights of the soft-keys (home, menu, back- and search button) shut down, I still see a dimmed light behind my search button. It annoys me.. I know I'm a picky girl.
Is that a hardware failure or do you guys have that, too? I'm convinced it's NOT caused by my current ROM (running DisarmedToaster). Can you recommend an app which will test my phone for hardware failures?
I bought my EVO 3D with blood money and would not really like unrooting and putting the phone into original warranty state to go beg the company I bought it from for a replacement. Please help a desperate lady!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine has done that since the day I bought it, although I bought mine used so I just dealt with it. It looks more like bleed from the backlight on the display but i'm not sure. It must be pretty common if we both have it.
richyrocket said:
Mine has done that since the day I bought it, although I bought mine used so I just dealt with it. It looks more like bleed from the backlight on the display but i'm not sure. It must be pretty common if we both have it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for stating this, exactly what I was talking about! Kind of a small release to hear I didn't buy faulty hardware. Do we have other readers here who can confirm that this behavior is normal?
I'll head out to the phone store today to double check. Still, does an app exist to check for hardware failures?
Yes no faulty equipment, it is normal on every single Evo.
( Don't ask for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh)
flashallthetime said:
Yes no faulty equipment, it is normal on every single Evo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You just saved my whole HTC experience. Thank you soo much! How come this is the case on every EVO? Isn't that something draining the battery?
No it is actually bleeding from the main screen, I guess there's a small gap between the search button and the screen
( Don't ask for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh)
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Jsparta26 said:
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use your phone in the dark. Watch until soft buttons stop glowing. See the light behind the search button?
Mine has it too.
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using xda app-developers app
Jsparta26 said:
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn the backlight of touch buttons off using kernel tuner and keep screen on, you will notice light behind search key.
Yeh, methinks it's standard in all our phones fixed mine when i was replacing my digitizer (put a bit of plastic behind the search key to stop the overspill)
dessolator666 said:
Yeh, methinks it's standard in all our phones fixed mine when i was replacing my digitizer (put a bit of plastic behind the search key to stop the overspill)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you void your warranty through opening it? How about the buttons responsiveness afterwards? If you provide a detailed HowTo, you'll get another +1. :thumbup:
SecUpwN said:
Did you void your warranty through opening it? How about the buttons responsiveness afterwards? If you provide a detailed HowTo, you'll get another +1. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeh, warranty gone after opening it.... though now that I think of it... there may be a way around that. Namely I replaced the entire digitizer so I needed to take it apart fully, however since all the connections and cables are at the top of the screen and the buttons are (obviously ) on the bottom you could lift the digitizer up from the bottom and fix it without messing with the screws in the back (the one that voids your warranty).
To actually do this you will need:
Heat gun(or decent hair drier) anything with 500w or above should be plenty
Some good double sided adhesive tape (probably won't be able to reuse the original one)
A case opener tool (to lift the digitizer)
A piece of plastic or anything else opaque and nonconductive
Procedure:
heat up all the edges of the digitizer evenly (don't cook them, just heat them up )
Using a case opener tool get in between the digitizer and the aluminium chassis starting at the bottom and work your way up to the top
When the bottom and sides are free gently lift the digitizer with the top as a hinge point heating it up if necessary.
Ta da! You can see the inner workings of the buttons
Notice that the buttons have pieces of transparent plastic leading light from the LEDs to the actual surface the light overspill happens around the search button so I put a tiny piece of plastic around it (there are probably more elegant ways around this... but I'm not that elegant to begin with so this worked just fine.
Cut out thin strips of tape and put them on the edges of the digitizer where the old adhesive was (or reuse the old adhesive if you can)
Close up the phone and there you have it... your warranty should still be valid... tho if any1 opens the phone up they will probably notice the extra piece of plastic (or whatever you used)
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
dessolator666 said:
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would actually be the coolest contribution I've seen in a ling time! Are you really willing to do that for our EVO community? If you did, you'd be our king.
Don't worry, it's on every EVO 3D. From GSM to CDMA.
The light bleed is from the screen back light. It does give the phone a cheap feel sometimes, but it's a common problem.
It's not as prevalent on cm10 with inverted gapps
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
flashallthetime said:
It's not as prevalent on cm10 with inverted gapps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How come?
SecUpwN said:
How come?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Inverted gapps has black backgrounds so the screen bleeding is reduced
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
---------- Post added at 10:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ----------
I can drastically reduce screen brightness which helps, there's still some bleeding
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
dessolator666 said:
Yeh, warranty gone after opening it.... though now that I think of it... there may be a way around that. Namely I replaced the entire digitizer so I needed to take it apart fully, however since all the connections and cables are at the top of the screen and the buttons are (obviously ) on the bottom you could lift the digitizer up from the bottom and fix it without messing with the screws in the back (the one that voids your warranty).
To actually do this you will need:
Heat gun(or decent hair drier) anything with 500w or above should be plenty
Some good double sided adhesive tape (probably won't be able to reuse the original one)
A case opener tool (to lift the digitizer)
A piece of plastic or anything else opaque and nonconductive
Procedure:
heat up all the edges of the digitizer evenly (don't cook them, just heat them up )
Using a case opener tool get in between the digitizer and the aluminium chassis starting at the bottom and work your way up to the top
When the bottom and sides are free gently lift the digitizer with the top as a hinge point heating it up if necessary.
Ta da! You can see the inner workings of the buttons
Notice that the buttons have pieces of transparent plastic leading light from the LEDs to the actual surface the light overspill happens around the search button so I put a tiny piece of plastic around it (there are probably more elegant ways around this... but I'm not that elegant to begin with so this worked just fine.
Cut out thin strips of tape and put them on the edges of the digitizer where the old adhesive was (or reuse the old adhesive if you can)
Close up the phone and there you have it... your warranty should still be valid... tho if any1 opens the phone up they will probably notice the extra piece of plastic (or whatever you used)
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe it can be done without opening the back. If I'm not mistaken, that's where the connector is and it can't be accessed from the front. I could be wrong though
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
HermanV0929 said:
I don't believe it can be done without opening the back. If I'm not mistaken, that's where the connector is and it can't be accessed from the front. I could be wrong though
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sure it can be done... because you have to do pretty much exactly that when replacing the LCD or digitizer
I've read in other forums that the Wacom Bamboo Feel (CS300UK) line of stylus's do not line up correctly, with the tip being offset by 1/8th of an inch or more, which is really maddening when you're trying to do some detailed art. In the Note 10.1 2014 forum there's a thread devoted to how many of these stylus's suck and are offset, including the CS300UK2, which people still aren't sure of if it's a new version or a different region product code of the same pen. Whichever it is, this is about the easy to get Best Buy and Amazon sold version, CS300UK.
Still, after reading all of that, I gave it a shot and it really was crap. Way offset! I was about to return it, when I decided to get out the X-acto blade and see what I could do.
I've attached a finished version of what my pen looks like now. Not the prettiest thing, but it lines up perfectly for me now and took WAY less time to do than it did for me to write all this out. haha
1- Pull out the nib that's currently in the pen.
2- Whittle down the tip of the pen until you start to see the first bit of innards in it. With my X-acto, it was really easy to cut, not a hard plastic at all.
In the image attached, you can see a small black circle inside the cut grey part. That is where I've decided to stop. Not sure what it does but looks like it shouldn't be sliced up...
3- Trim the nib. I've labeled in the image the bit of nib that I trimmed. This was photographed on the top of the back of the Bamboo nib box so you can see the size, but it is a small amount, like 1/8 of an inch or so. With your basic nail clippers, I clipped it from the "bottom" of the nib, which is slightly less round than the top, but I doubt it matters which you clip.
So yeah, slip the nib back in the pen and you're done. It should be lined up.
The two photos on the right of the attached image show what it looks like held from the left and right at a pretty decent angle, my "natural" drawing angle. Basically spot on. Tested in a bunch of places around the tablet and it all matches up.
Good luck to anyone who tries this! Also, don't blame me if you screw up your pen.
Now, if only Wacom could put out a pen that is this little bit shorter for these newer Note's...
slackersink said:
Now, if only Wacom could put out a pen that is this little bit shorter for these newer Note's...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Version 2 has been out for quite some time. (UK2 or UW2)
http://www.wacom.com/en/us/everyday/bamboo-stylus-feel-samsung-galaxy-note
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
wingdo said:
Version 2 has been out for quite some time. (UK2 or UW2)
http://www.wacom.com/en/us/everyday/bamboo-stylus-feel-samsung-galaxy-note
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
People are still experiencing an offset with that, as well. I browsed all through the 10.1 2014 thread about it http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2484014
Specifically http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=47180938&postcount=46 from a quick search in that thread.
As they're both Samsung products put out at about the same time, I am using the assumption that they will have similar tech when it comes to the digitizer and how it reacts to the Feel pens. The Note 3 will probably have that, too. Older digitizers might not do so good, though. haha
Here's a link where I screencapped someone's test video: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=50693780&postcount=179
At least from the angle, there seems to be an offset from the UK2. He's on the line with the pen, but the drawn line is under that line.
I have the V2 and have no offset issues. From a screen shot taken from a side angle, yes there appears to be an offset, but the big question is "is there an offset from the eye position of the writer" not is there an offset for someone watching from the side. It's like looking at a speedometer from the driver's seat vs. the passenger seat. You will not get the same reading as you will from the other position.
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
Some say they like it and others are still saying their V2's are off, but if you do have one that works properly and you're happy with it, that's all that matters.
Does the back of this pen work as an eraser?
I was finally able to test the wacom pen with eraser that came with my Toshiba laptop. No surprise, it has the same 2-3 mm offset when the pen is held at an angle. Too bad because it's nice to have the easy eraser which does work as expected. I'll probably end up ordering the big s-pen now...
Also, I did try adjusting the calibration screws under the button to no avail...
Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
I have this pen from a previous note and it does work well with no offset. The eraser works as well. It was only $29 the last time I bought it and now I see it listed alot more. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sam...0862790937?pt=US_Styluses&hash=item35c07ea119
tonyz3 said:
I have this pen from a previous note and it does work well with no offset. The eraser works as well. It was only $29 the last time I bought it and now I see it listed alot more. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sam...0862790937?pt=US_Styluses&hash=item35c07ea119
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got mine on Amazon for $19.99.
ExtremeRyno said:
Got mine on Amazon for $19.99.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got mine for 15.99 on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...366?pt=US_Tablet_Styluses&hash=item2ece9d526e
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
wingdo said:
Got mine for 15.99 on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...366?pt=US_Tablet_Styluses&hash=item2ece9d526e
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
8.50 here can use promo code PAYDEALS to get about $1 off, I paid using amazon. http://www.paydeals.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Stylus-Eraser-Non-Retail/dp/B009QW3SGQ#.UxVAXPldXWg
kodochax said:
8.50 here can use promo code PAYDEALS to get about $1 off, I paid using amazon. http://www.paydeals.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Stylus-Eraser-Non-Retail/dp/B009QW3SGQ#.UxVAXPldXWg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got mine for $2 outside walmart from a guy in a black trench coat full of note accessories
Sent from my SCH-I605 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Stole mine.
Lost mine
THANKS!!!
slackersink said:
I've read in other forums that the Wacom Bamboo Feel (CS300UK) line of stylus's do not line up correctly, with the tip being offset by 1/8th of an inch or more, which is really maddening when you're trying to do some detailed art. In the Note 10.1 2014 forum there's a thread devoted to how many of these stylus's suck and are offset, including the CS300UK2, which people still aren't sure of if it's a new version or a different region product code of the same pen. Whichever it is, this is about the easy to get Best Buy and Amazon sold version, CS300UK.
Still, after reading all of that, I gave it a shot and it really was crap. Way offset! I was about to return it, when I decided to get out the X-acto blade and see what I could do.
I've attached a finished version of what my pen looks like now. Not the prettiest thing, but it lines up perfectly for me now and took WAY less time to do than it did for me to write all this out. haha
1- Pull out the nib that's currently in the pen.
2- Whittle down the tip of the pen until you start to see the first bit of innards in it. With my X-acto, it was really easy to cut, not a hard plastic at all.
In the image attached, you can see a small black circle inside the cut grey part. That is where I've decided to stop. Not sure what it does but looks like it shouldn't be sliced up...
3- Trim the nib. I've labeled in the image the bit of nib that I trimmed. This was photographed on the top of the back of the Bamboo nib box so you can see the size, but it is a small amount, like 1/8 of an inch or so. With your basic nail clippers, I clipped it from the "bottom" of the nib, which is slightly less round than the top, but I doubt it matters which you clip.
So yeah, slip the nib back in the pen and you're done. It should be lined up.
The two photos on the right of the attached image show what it looks like held from the left and right at a pretty decent angle, my "natural" drawing angle. Basically spot on. Tested in a bunch of places around the tablet and it all matches up.
Good luck to anyone who tries this! Also, don't blame me if you screw up your pen.
Now, if only Wacom could put out a pen that is this little bit shorter for these newer Note's...
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Click to collapse
WOW worked like a charm thanks for posting!! Just be careful how short you cut the nib I found I cut it too short and had to gradually adjust the length on the spare.
Thanks
No offset issues on mine...
But then I did manually adjust the potentiometers in the pen, as one should do with every Wacom pen by default...........
ShadowLea said:
No offset issues on mine...
But then I did manually adjust the potentiometers in the pen, as one should do with every Wacom pen by default...........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any chance you can share how to adjust the Bamboo? Wacom support told me it's a Samsung issue and very sporadic. I would appreciate the help so I don't have to return it.
The.
Earthdog said:
Any chance you can share how to adjust the Bamboo? Wacom support told me it's a Samsung issue and very sporadic. I would appreciate the help so I don't have to return it.
The.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly!
There's two ways to go about this. The 'Viking equivalent of try this first' and the 'If that doesn't work, let's try the more technical one.'
Firstly, try giving it a good solid whack on the edge of a table. As ridiculous as that sounds (and makes you look), this does usually have an effect. Often, the nib isn't properly inserted, or sits at just the wrong angle. Brute force tends to work.
If that doesn't help, it's time for the proper technical solution. This works on pretty much any magnetic stylus with a button, including the Spen.
Requirements:
- A small flat screwdriver
- A non-cluttered room (preferably without carpets)
- The pen
- The tablet
Step 1) Carefully use the small screwdriver to pop off the button. You should be able to insert it along the side in the middle and then slide it towards the back end (where the fastener isunder the button).
The thing jumps, so be careful! (Hence the clean, carpet free room. I had to use a vacuum cleaner to recover mine once..) If the screwdriver doesn't work, try a needle or a razor (mind your fingers!).
Step 2) With the lid off, you'll see two dials.
The one closest to the tip of the pen adjusts the sensitivity.
The one closest to the cap adjusts the offset. This is the one we'll need to fix this issue. (Might as well tweak both whilst you're at it)
Carefully make tiny adjustments (and I mean really tiny) to these dials. Test it on the tab every time, you don't need to re-attach the button to test it. They go both ways, so play with it 'till you're satisfied with the result. (On my previous one I had to turn it a whole 85º, on my new one only 5º.)
Step 3) If you're happy with the result, click the button back on. It only fits one way, and needs to be inserted very much like a battery: one side first. (The side pointing towards the cap)
That's it
ShadowLea THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are BRILLIANT!!!!!!!!
ShadowLea said:
Certainly!
There's two ways to go about this. The 'Viking equivalent of try this first' and the 'If that doesn't work, let's try the more technical one.'
Firstly, try giving it a good solid whack on the edge of a table. As ridiculous as that sounds (and makes you look), this does usually have an effect. Often, the nib isn't properly inserted, or sits at just the wrong angle. Brute force tends to work.
If that doesn't help, it's time for the proper technical solution. This works on pretty much any magnetic stylus with a button, including the Spen.
Requirements:
- A small flat screwdriver
- A non-cluttered room (preferably without carpets)
- The pen
- The tablet
Step 1) Carefully use the small screwdriver to pop off the button. You should be able to insert it along the side in the middle and then slide it towards the back end (where the fastener isunder the button).
The thing jumps, so be careful! (Hence the clean, carpet free room. I had to use a vacuum cleaner to recover mine once..) If the screwdriver doesn't work, try a needle or a razor (mind your fingers!).
Step 2) With the lid off, you'll see two dials.
The one closest to the tip of the pen adjusts the sensitivity.
The one closest to the cap adjusts the offset. This is the one we'll need to fix this issue. (Might as well tweak both whilst you're at it)
Carefully make tiny adjustments (and I mean really tiny) to these dials. Test it on the tab every time, you don't need to re-attach the button to test it. They go both ways, so play with it 'till you're satisfied with the result. (On my previous one I had to turn it a whole 85º, on my new one only 5º.)
Step 3) If you're happy with the result, click the button back on. It only fits one way, and needs to be inserted very much like a battery: one side first. (The side pointing towards the cap)
That's it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ShadowLea said:
Certainly!
....
Step 1) Carefully use the small screwdriver to pop off the button. You should be able to insert it along the side in the middle and then slide it towards the back end (where the fastener isunder the button).
...
Step 2) With the lid off, you'll see two dials.
The one closest to the tip of the pen adjusts the sensitivity.
The one closest to the cap adjusts the offset. This is the one we'll need to fix this issue. (Might as well tweak both whilst you're at it)
...
That's it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was very helpful, but still took a bit of fidgeting to get it off. For anyone trying it at home, here is a picture of the guts. The two tabs on the left click into rectangular hole.
My problem was that I tried to slide a blade along the edge and the cross piece would not let that happen. Perhaps the best way is to pry at the left 1/3 of the length and let the middle bulge up.
Got my truesmart today.. I was pretty excited... Even the busted up case didn't scare me because the watch its self looked like it was ok. But two things I can't figure out.. The first is that I can't figure out how to switch back to the default launcher from the oui 2.0. That is frustrating because unless I am blind, I can't seem to find those instruction anywhere.
The second thing is my second physical button seems to be broken. The manual says it is a home button or a previous apps list when held button. No matter what screen, nothing happens when I push the button. Long press or short. Nothing happens. Am I to assume that it is broken?
Soo bummed that I can't use this watch..
Thanks
Norm807
For many owners, one or both of the buttons either feels odd, doesn't work, or falls off.
They are pushing on little micro switches, not metal bubble switches, inside the case surface mounted on the main board. Sometimes the main board is slightly misaligned and the pusher from outside misses the switch on the main board. Sometimes the surface mounted switch is loose on the main board.
You will need to get the watch replaced if the surface mounting has failed. It might be possible to re-align the main board.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
trent999 said:
For many owners, one or both of the buttons either feels odd, doesn't work, or falls off.
They are pushing on little micro switches, not metal bubble switches, inside the case surface mounted on the main board. Sometimes the main board is slightly misaligned and the pusher from outside misses the switch on the main board. Sometimes the surface mounted switch is loose on the main board.
You will need to get the watch replaced if the surface mounting has failed. It might be possible to re-align the main board.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. I got a reply from Omate via facebook today.. see below, but it looks like is will be a while for it gets fixed. At least it is only the home button.. I can work around it for now.
Norm807
Hello.. Just received my truesmart today.. The shipping case was cracked in sever places and the watch was floating free inside. It appears to be ok. One issue is that the second (home) button doesn't work. I have tried everyhting I could think and it just doesn't work. What do I need to do to get it replaced? Thanks
Omate
1:51am
Omate
You mean the camera?
Norm807
7:09am
No, the button below the camera. The button that is supposed to take you home when pushed or show you the recent apps when long pressed.
Omate
7:42am
I see, we will get back to you as soon as we have a service center in place. Sorry for that, it may take a few months.