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Hi guys, ok heres a problem i am left with , i have an XDA IIs with what i think is a cracked lcd ( bleeding badly ) i m sure the touch screen is ok as there is no crack as such - question i have is is it easy enough to replace the screen ?, and or where can i get instructions from - i have never dimantled a pda - but repaired many fones and other brown goods --cheers in advance
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
Link broken
bukwit said:
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
ftp://xda:[email protected]/sx66_09.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please help - seems this is a dead link ...
working link is in this thread...the 23rd post...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=230049&page=3
Should be quite easy
I have done it myself with my BA and it was quite easy.
Link is not working
bukwit said:
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
ftp://xda:[email protected]/sx66_09.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can anyone help - please.
No problems - Google found on another site
zybercynic said:
Can anyone help - please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://pdasmart.zftp.com/instructions/sx66_09.pdf
For all of those who are performing case surgery - please note that the BA (M2000) has extra screws to remove before the case will separate.
You will need T5, T6 and an ultra fine Philips head screwdrivers to remove screws.
XDA IIs LCD replacement
I have dismantled a XDA IIs, but am not sure how to get the LCD out of the front cover, there seems to be some plastic welds holding the front cover together?
Can any one assist please?
I will have a go at explaining
ok try to explain
1. take off battery
2. unscrew the four torx4/torx5 screws including the one under warning label but no need to touch the phone idenity label
3. unscrew the two side screws located near top
4. take out pen and any card in device
5. carefully remove back (now you will be able to see the circuit board)
6. looking at the phone lcd down so you see the circuit board remove screws (small philips/ crossheads silver in color)
1.top left
2. top right
3. midle right near small cable
now you should be able to move the circuit board (do not force apart)
the lcd cable and keyboard cable are attached to the underside of the board
1. slide the phone 50% open (but keep phone lcd face down so you are look at the board phone the (keyboad being closest to you than main speaker))
2. carefully lift left side of board (you should see the cables) using a small screwdriver Very Carefully pry them off the board (the should pop off with no force needed)
3. slide phone fully open and now you are able to see all 4 torx screws that hold the front part of the phone on just under the circuit boad
* bottom 2 are in small cut out boxes just under to circuit board you may need to slide the front up or down to align with the screws
*the top 2 you should have notice when you fully opened the phone in normal use and looked at the back of the lcd at top behind speaker
4. the front surround and lcd and buttons will come off carefully remove from bottom near the navigation buttons
5. the phone should now be able to split into the two halfs with cables
6. you should be able to unscrew the the lcd and the cable 2 top 2 bottom for lcd but you have to also remove the button ribbon cable
replace lcd and reverse process
*the lcd cable needed to be pushed into the socket on the underside of the circuit board (this can be tricky take ur time)
*the keyboard cable is simular to the lcd cable but it has a smaller socket that it clips into
maybe this is a quick help I should have looked about a bit maybe someone done it better with pictures than me hey it only took 10mins
BlueDragon747 said:
ok try to explain
1. take off battery
2. unscrew the four torx4/torx5 screws including the one under warning label but no need to touch the phone idenity label
3. unscrew the two side screws located near top
4. take out pen and any card in device
5. carefully remove back (now you will be able to see the circuit board)
6. looking at the phone lcd down so you see the circuit board remove screws (small philips/ crossheads silver in color)
1.top left
2. top right
3. midle right near small cable
now you should be able to move the circuit board (do not force apart)
the lcd cable and keyboard cable are attached to the underside of the board
1. slide the phone 50% open (but keep phone lcd face down so you are look at the board phone the (keyboad being closest to you than main speaker))
2. carefully lift left side of board (you should see the cables) using a small screwdriver Very Carefully pry them off the board (the should pop off with no force needed)
3. slide phone fully open and now you are able to see all 4 torx screws that hold the front part of the phone on just under the circuit boad
* bottom 2 are in small cut out boxes just under to circuit board you may need to slide the front up or down to align with the screws
*the top 2 you should have notice when you fully opened the phone in normal use and looked at the back of the lcd at top behind speaker
4. the front surround and lcd and buttons will come off carefully remove from bottom near the navigation buttons
5. the phone should now be able to split into the two halfs with cables
6. you should be able to unscrew the the lcd and the cable 2 top 2 bottom for lcd but you have to also remove the button ribbon cable
replace lcd and reverse process
*the lcd cable needed to be pushed into the socket on the underside of the circuit board (this can be tricky take ur time)
*the keyboard cable is simular to the lcd cable but it has a smaller socket that it clips into
maybe this is a quick help I should have looked about a bit maybe someone done it better with pictures than me hey it only took 10mins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
these instructions i will cherish , cheers for the detailed breakdown...
Please help me how to seperate the LCD and touchscreen?
I bought the BA with a broken touchscreen, the LCD is fine, I got a new touchscreen and disassemble it, I don't know how to do next, can anyone tell me how to seperate the LCD and touchscreen? and how to unplug and plug the touchscreen cable? Thank you very much!!
i have detailed instructions PDF with pictures.
drop me an email
lcd instructions
try www.htclcd.com for lcd replacement instructions
blue angel
could you send me that pdf file please (instructions PDF with pictures xdaIIs touch replacement)
thanks
In continuation of this topic http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=284909, i used all the information collected in this forum and other forums and i will briefly present you the procedure i used to modify XGPS car kit, so that it provided me with audio/microphone outputs, so that i can connect it to my car stereo, using it's line-in OR using an RF modulator.
First of all, i disassembled my car kit, using just a screwdriver
Then, using a soldering iron, i removed the integrated speaker (since i will not need it).
After that, i removed the existing 2.5mm connector, and i cut all the wires that lead to it. I used some plastic welding epoxy, to give strength to the plastic base that the PDA "sits". I then drilled a hole, in order to insert the new 2.5mm 4 conduct plug!
This is the new plug, taken out off my old handsfree
And this is how it looks inserted into its place
Then, i screwed it back on the car kit, and i used my "Wizard" in order to assure that it fits as before. With the "Wizard" still in place, i put some plastic welding and finished!!! Wait for 15 minutes for the epoxy to dry, and my 2.5mm 3 conduct factory plug, is replaced with a 4 conduct taken out of my old unused handsfree
I prepared 2 small "boxes", for holding speaker/microphone connectors(rear box) and for adding some small blue leds to give my mod a more "artistic" look(front box)!!! I mainly used some acrylic sheet(2mm) and aluminium sheet(1mm). I curved acrylic by heating it, using a heat gun i had. Generally, i had almost all the necessary tools/material already from my previous PC mods.
Acrylic boxes and alluminium covers, we painted black using a spray gun. The rear box, was(i have to admit) better prepared. I'm already planning to redesign the "front" box.
Rear and front boxes are screwd on the factory cradle.
Some more pics!!!
Here are the connectors i'll use. 2 for speakers(stereo-black) and 2 for microphones(mono-beige). I'll explain more on my decision in next posts
Here are the connectors mounted on the rear box
Here is my hand!!!
Alright!!! It took me some practise in order to solder the small wires of my old handsfree. In fact, i extended them using some wires i had, so that soldering on the connectors would be easier-and it was!!!
Now, why did i use more connectors than needed? The reason is simple. The connectors are setup as master-slave(at least in Computer hardware, this is how it's called). That means, one of each 2 connections of each type (speaker/microphone) come first. So, i'm planning to connect the 2nd connector to my car stereo(maybe using an RF transmitter). If i need to make a private call(that means cancel audio from my car stereo), then i simply plug in a stereo headset. This way, i can hear from the headset, without having audio from my car stereo! If i change my mind, i simply unplug the headset, and audio is directed again to my car stereo. Hope i didn't make it very complicated!!! The same applies for microphone (i already bought a small cheap microphone from ebay).
Now, on the picture below, you may notice a greenish layer(actuall it's ocean blue). This is actually some sort of UV acrylic. Some leds are inside the front box, so that when connected to the car, it displayes a light blueish color (Uv acrylic makes it look fantastic!!!)
Now, you can preview the back cover(made off 1mm aluminium) of my cradle. It's also painted the same black color. 4 holes will be used to insert 4 black rivets to secure it in place
Unfortunately no more pictures for now... I'll try to post more in the next days, as the cradle is ready and already installed in my car. I get power from my car's switch(12V) to drive the cradle and an RF transmitter (Monster Radioplay 300). My stock head unit doesn't have an audio-in, so this explains my decision. Sound is perfect when using it for handsfree (no echo, great sound). Now, when playing music, it sounds as it gets from a strong radio station, so i guess this means success!!! Plus, i have the option to connect it to my future head unit (if it has a line-in of course!!!).
Now, my next steps;
1)I'll redesign the front cover, so that it looks more tidy(i used some ugly screws-paint also is very glossy)
2)I'll make a small stand for my car, to mount the RF transmitter and the microphone.
3)Prepare my "Wizard" for speach recognition, used to make calls-play songs etc-Do you have any suggestions on that?
So.... more pictures to come in the next days!!! Pls ask for any questions or any help you need if you want to make something similar or better OR if you have any suggestions/questions
First, let me say I'm a bit more of a hack than a hacker. My soldering skills are based on a heathkit I built 20 years ago, and my dremel is old an out-of-balance. Still, I'm getting a new car (well, truck, actually) and wanted a good mount to go with my 8525.
Cutting right to the chase, I took an 8125 mount ($35), a martin fields stereo adapter ($10), the dual adapter that came with the kit, an FME male antenna adapter ($10), a radio shack panel mount stereo 1/8" socket ($4), and $1 worth of epoxy, and cut, ground, spliced, soldered, epoxied, and reassembled to get the net result below. Total time was about 2 hours, but most of that was spent running between my office in the house and the workshop to get various tools / drill holes (I have a cheap drill press, which made drilling for certain parts marginally easier).
If I can find another hour, I'll try to write up a step-by-step if anyone is interested, along with a linked list of parts.
I'm very much interested!
Not to burst your bubble but.......
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15879&cat=2380&page=1
or
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=12660&cat=1801&page=1
And they are only 28.00 bucks
fresh801 said:
Not to burst your bubble but.......
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15879&cat=2380&page=1
or
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=12660&cat=1801&page=1
And they are only 28.00 bucks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
those dont have audio out.. and the 2nd one is for the 8125/wizard, not the 8525/hermes... i am very interested in this project since i have one of those cradles laying around from my 8125... never thought about using the Y adapter.. good call since i dont use it for anything else..
fresh801 said:
Not to burst your bubble but.......
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15879&cat=2380&page=1
or
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=12660&cat=1801&page=1
And they are only 28.00 bucks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, aside from the audio out and antenna connector, the more unusual hack in this is the landscape format with the ability to open the keyboard (or, more exactly to leave it open) while it is docked.
Since I'm running short of time this weekend, the key to getting this to work is to open the back of the 8125 cradle and pop off the connector (gently) and remove the glue that holds it in place. You'll need to dremel out the "top" of the cradle to allow the 8525 to fit.
To get the new connector, I just - carefully - stripped the plastic away from the 2-in-1 connector that came with the unit. Of course the connector is in a different place than the 8125, so you have to cut a new one. I used a marble-sized wad of play-doh rolled and flattened into a 1cm x 3cm patty and pushed it gently into the bottom (connector side) of the cradle. Then I gently slid my 8525 into the cradle so that the connector would make an impression in the playdoh. I them removed the 8525 (keeping the playdoh in the cradle) and "marked" the corners of the connector location with a pin (just push thourhg to make a dot). I heated a utility knife (xacto-like) in my gas stove and gently scored from point to point. A dremel with a fine tip then hogged out the area so that the coneector would fit. I also drilled the location for the antenna at this point (same playdoh trick, but just a single pin prick in the center of the hole area).
Now, to secure the conenctors in the right place, I put the 8525 in the cradle, flipped the whole think upside-down, pushed in the connectors into place, and then put epoxy on both connector areas.
***warning*** the epoxy is likely to "leak through" the old connector location, and around the connectors if your holes aren't pretty tight. BEFORE you put the unit in the cradle for the epoxy step, cover the bottom and antenna area with scotch tape, and just cut out the exact connector area with a knife. This will keep any errant epoxy from making the cradle a permanent fixture on you unit!
I did need to use scotch tape to make a "dam" around the usb connector because it was so thin it wouldn't mound up (set too slowly).
Everything else was just connecting up wires (the M-F conenctor was tough to strip cleanle and I broke the ground wire, but just soldered another one on).
Warning . This DIY is not for the inexperienced. If you have never disassembled a laptop( and get it back together working) or worked with custom DC power applications you'll want to follow the "do not try this at home" rule. It will require some fabrication skills as well, drilling and making brackets. Once I have this perfected I'll be offering a send in MOD service.
First I need to get a Dock, I have to keep mine intact as I use it daily with my demos and android integration services. If you want yours modded for free let me know. I will guarantee you will get yours back either in the condition it was sent or working with the MOD.
For the modders following along, assumed steps.
1. Remove feet from bottom of dock. Guessing assembly screws are there.
2. Disassemble dock and look for space somewhere along the edge to add a small barrel adapter.
3. Find power leads to the battery and solder extension wires.
4. Test that extension takes charge and that factory connector still works to charge
5. Fabricate bracket for connector
6. Drill edge of case to expose connector.
Let's hope it is this simple. =]
DevCake said:
Warning . This DIY is not for the inexperienced. If you have never disassembled a laptop( and get it back together working) or worked with custom DC power applications you'll want to follow the "do not try this at home" rule. It will require some fabrication skills as well, drilling and making brackets. Once I have this perfected I'll be offering a send in MOD service.
First I need to get a Dock, I have to keep mine intact as I use it daily with my demos and android integration services. If you want yours modded for free let me know. I will guarantee you will get yours back either in the condition it was sent or working with the MOD.
For the modders following along, assumed steps.
1. Remove feet from bottom of dock. Guessing assembly screws are there.
2. Disassemble dock and look for space somewhere along the edge to add a small barrel adapter.
3. Find power leads to the battery and solder extension wires.
4. Test that extension takes charge and that factory connector still works to charge
5. Fabricate bracket for connector
6. Drill edge of case to expose connector.
Let's hope it is this simple. =]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a dang good idea...I should have thought of this earlier! Looking at the dock, it looks like the bezel is clipped in as well. Also, the "clamp" part of the dock has some screws in it. Mechanism might be a little bit more complicated but hopefully not. You're going to need an awfully thing barrel connector to make this work. The Bezel is about the same thickness as the TF's bezel.
verkion
It is an excellent idea!
But I'm thinking. If you can do this on the dock, couldn't you also do it on the TF itself?
glg
glgehman said:
It is an excellent idea!
But I'm thinking. If you can do this on the dock, couldn't you also do it on the TF itself?
glg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sure there will be no room in the tab to do it, would be great if you could though!
Think I am going to try this mod. Ordered 2nd dock. If I go over-my-head I will contact DevCake for help.
The issue with barrel plug on TF tablet is what to do when dock is attached?
The advantage of barrel plug on dock is charging both dock and tablet, eliminating the need for any proprietary 40 pin cable (because doc has its own), and if you want to screw around the dock costs less (still $150USD is a lot, but less compared to a spare $40USD charger). Still need to consider what to do if barrel plug charging and something plugs into 40pin connector.
I also plan to put in a slide switch to disconnect the dock battery from the tablet entirely to save juice when shut down. E.g. reports of doc losing power when attached. This could extend the stand-by life of the dock for a week or more.
Once the thing is opened up, it might be a good time to discuss placements. Everyone has different and great ideas. I have a digital caliper to measure stuff.
Bob Smith42 said:
Think I am going to try this mod. Ordered 2nd dock. If I go over-my-head I will contact DevCake for help.
The issue with barrel plug on TF tablet is what to do when dock is attached?
The advantage of barrel plug on dock is charging both dock and tablet, eliminating the need for any proprietary 40 pin cable (because doc has its own), and if you want to screw around the dock costs less (still $150USD is a lot, but less compared to a spare $40USD charger). Still need to consider what to do if barrel plug charging and something plugs into 40pin connector.
I also plan to put in a slide switch to disconnect the dock battery from the tablet entirely to save juice when shut down. E.g. reports of doc losing power when attached. This could extend the stand-by life of the dock for a week or more.
Once the thing is opened up, it might be a good time to discuss placements. Everyone has different and great ideas. I have a digital caliper to measure stuff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for it Bob,
I don't think installing the barrel connector on the Tablet is a good idea either.
I wouldn't place the connector on the front so the sides IMO are the best location but that will become clear when we see the innards.
The addition of the 40 pin connector while the barrel connector is charging is a big part of the mod. Bridging the power over to the barrel puts both power sources in parallel and this can be bad. When you attach 2 power sources in parallel that are of different voltage the voltage actually will travel to the lower voltage supply source and overload it. Remember any PC USB is 5V, not the 12 or 15 you will supply to the barrel so if the barrel is connected to the charger and the 40 pin is connected to the charger you will send more voltage back to the PC and BOOM! The universe will implode upon itself =/.
So how do we address the possibility of multiple power sources? either with a switch or an additional circuit that shuts one off when it see voltage from the other. The 3rd option is to disconnect power from the 40 pin which IMO is not an option, you want to keep that intact.
Bob if you frequent any DIY forums that deal with these kind of power MODS ask around about a circuit that will do this for you. You might want to start with RC forums, those guys know DC like no other. I'll start looking around but whatever we find needs to be small for sure.
Have you sourced some barrel connectors?
I would vote switch, just in case the circuit failed somehow. With a switch, you simply cant use both at the same time no matter what.
Good news.
I received my 2nd dock, and opened it. There are only two screws, under the rubber feet in the back by the hinge. These screws help support and hold the hinge in place. Run a plastic separator tool around the edge to open. I started in one back corner. It is tight in a few places. Do not bend the metal by the socket positions, where the metal is very thin and flexible. The front edge separates last (most difficult) using leverage of flapping open and closed the top/bottom pieces, and starting separation on one side.
I will post pictures soon. I took some and in the process of uploading. I have my digital caliper at the other office so measurements later.
There is a great position for a female socket for a barrel plug charger, behind the current charger and pointing to the back. It is between the hinge and a circuit board, so there is no leeway in width. The width is narrow, just under 5mm, so a socket needs to be thin. If we find a 4mm wide barrel socket, maybe 7mm or less high it should fit. Of course that makes a slim barrel.
UPDATE: On further consideration, we might trim up to 3-4mm of the hinge plate, giving up to 7-8mm square barrel socket.
The area between the battery (centered under the keyboard) and the back hinge is wide open. Literally room to drop in x4 sd cards end to end, and stack another row of x4 on top, with space left over. The entire space is about 5-10mm height. A switch can go anywhere in this area, mounted on the bottom face, which is protected by the protruding hinge.
I was thinking with all the USB ports, it might be worth considering loading up some internal USB devices later.
Bob Smith42 said:
Good news.
I received my 2nd dock, and opened it. There are only two screws, under the rubber feet in the back by the hinge. These screws help support and hold the hinge in place. Run a plastic separator tool around the edge to open. I started in one back corner. It is tight in a few places. Do not bend the metal by the socket positions, where the metal is very thin and flexible. The front edge separates last (most difficult) using leverage of flapping open and closed the top/bottom pieces, and starting separation on one side.
I will post pictures soon. I took some and in the process of uploading. I have my digital caliper at the other office so measurements later.
There is a great position for a female socket for a barrel plug charger, behind the current charger and pointing to the back. It is between the hinge and a circuit board, so there is no leeway in width. The width is narrow, just under 5mm, so a socket needs to be thin. If we find a 4mm wide barrel socket, maybe 7mm or less high it should fit. Of course that makes a slim barrel.
UPDATE: On further consideration, we might trim up to 3-4mm of the hinge plate, giving up to 7-8mm square barrel socket.
The area between the battery (centered under the keyboard) and the back hinge is wide open. Literally room to drop in x4 sd cards end to end, and stack another row of x4 on top, with space left over. The entire space is about 5-10mm height. A switch can go anywhere in this area, mounted on the bottom face, which is protected by the protruding hinge.
I was thinking with all the USB ports, it might be worth considering loading up some internal USB devices later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice!
Get some pics up !
One thing I would do is install another USB port and connect it directly to the battery so you can use the battery to charge other 5V devices without having to connect the TF.
I removed the circuit board, now, and pulled back some of the covering tape.
I will post pics tomorrow. Sorry. I want good sunlight of circuit board stuff, because I think that is where we will need to attach the barrel plug charger wires.
The charging socket on the dock has 20 solder points and it looks like up to 3? power lines (visual inspection). With my sub-mm solder iron I can attach wires to charge via a plug. At some point we will need to know at least the power positions on the cable/plug, especially the grounds.
I think we can simply cut into the x2 red and 2x black battery lines for a switch, or aux power. There are total 8 lines on battery, exactly like the tablet, and about 4 inches of exposed wires.
Full list of photos:
Plug showing depth behind battery & rubber spacer (7mm depth; 5.0mm battery, 2.0mm rubber spacer):
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
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}
Circuit board removed showing full hinge (back left):
Full keyboard under side:
Full bottom of dock with keyboard removed (large space between battery and back hinge):
Closeup of back left hinge and charging port (4.75mm between circuit board and hinge metal, 8mm between circuit board and hex nut on hinge):
Opposite to left hinge on keyboard side:
Back left hinge and charging port:
Keyboard under side (right half keyboard):
Keyboard under side (middle keyboard):
Keyboard under side (left half keyboard, side with power plug):
Bottom of dock (middle):
Bottom of dock (left):
Bottom of dock (right):
Bottom of dock (middle):
Bottom of dock (left):
Full keyboard underside with touch pad:
Full bottom of dock with keyboard removed:
Bottom of dock (left side, with power plug):
Bottom of dock (right back side, with USB port, large space between battery and hinge):
Bottom of dock (left back side, with power plug):
Under side of keyboard:
Bottom of dock, with keyboard removed:
Can u try to see if u can follow the usb ports to the 40 pin connector to see what points are for usb connection? That way we can follow up to the tablet and install a usb port in the tablet. There is plenty of room for one inside it
since the keyboard dock is opened, whats the battery rating in mah inside?
mlbl said:
since the keyboard dock is opened, whats the battery rating in mah inside?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery says:
ASUS LI-polymer Battery Pack C21-EP101
Rating: +7.4V =~ 3300mAh, 24Wh
It is 5.0mm thick, 137mm long, 104mm wide. It is wrapped in a black plastic bag-like cover, and the length at top seems empty when pressed - so about 20mm at the top is just a cover and not *battery*. The battery inside is closer to 5mm x 117mm x 104mm. There are two 2.0mm thick rubber spacers on top of the battery, running the full length and 29mm wide each.
Good to hear that. Thanks for the info
cowballz69 said:
Can u try to see if u can follow the usb ports to the 40 pin connector to see what points are for usb connection? That way we can follow up to the tablet and install a usb port in the tablet. There is plenty of room for one inside it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to use my fingers to easily slide out the battery plug on the circuit board. I will try to get some detailed photos of the circuit board today.
There are two groups of wires from the circuit board to the tablet plug. The silver colored is a shield and the black is unshielded. I was assuming the unshielded was USB, because USB lines do not *require* shielding - but, USB lines do require about 1 twist every 20mm or so. Also, I was assuming the shielded bits were keyboard & trackpad. But, I could be entirely wrong with these guesses.
One partial approach is to unplug both silver and black groups of wires and test continuity of each line from the tablet plug.
Tracing lines on the circuit board might be a good approach.
I was also going to test my cable, the USB end continuity against the 20 pin connector, and then plug in my cable to the port and test the matching solder points under the connector on the circuit board. Slightly safer now with battery removed.
Suggestions welcome as we go.
I am going to try something like this for the power jack: (See UPDATE below for correct component)
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1052051-conn-pwr-jack-0-65x2-6mm-smt-pj-038-smt.html
IMAGE REMOVED (I suggest you do NOT use the component seen in link above)
I ordered a variety of jacks to test. The "DX-UA Universal" has a 0.7mm ID, 2.35mm OD - Plug tip. I noticed the Motorola 10.1 tablet has a similar power plug, but unsure of their voltage.
==
UPDATE: I do *not* like the socket listed above, because it has an open bottom (hard to glue in place) and it is *not* tall enough. It is too short so if the charging plug is pushed up and down the socket can be pried loose, no matter how good it is glued in place.
Rather I prefer this other component:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-031HPJCT-ND
I reviewed about 10 various component models. The new choice, CP-031HPJCT-ND is:
(1) cheaper, shielded costs more and no benefit.
(2) taller, it fills the space between top and bottom of dock. Therefore, the screws holding the dock top/bottom together also hold it in place in addition to glue, e.g. it cannot be pried loose by impact on the charging plug.
(3) the hole is centered in the component, giving max strength to each side (other similar have a hole off center, which some might prefer but I do not, e.g. this CP1-022PJCT-ND is not as good in my opinion).
I will attempt to mount the preferred CP-031HPJCT-ND in the next few days, and advise of results. There are some mounting details that are required to successfully use these components, e.g. hole placement, electrical connection, positioning, etc..
guys... if we're already this in depth then why not just wire the power leads from the existing usb port in the dock over to the power/charging leads on the proprietary connector?
it would be far eaiser than adding a new connector/modding the case of the dock and would be even more "universal" since you could still charge with any usb adapter out there...
dmc971989 said:
guys... if we're already this in depth then why not just wire the power leads from the existing usb port in the dock over to the power/charging leads on the proprietary connector?
it would be far eaiser than adding a new connector/modding the case of the dock and would be even more "universal" since you could still charge with any usb adapter out there...
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That's a good point but with some cons.
1. You still need to make or buy a cable to use an off the shelf universal charger.
2. That port will no longer supply power to any USB device you connect to it.
The main purpose of this mod is to be able to use almost any universal charger that is available so the extra work adding the new connector is worth it IMO.
Bob Smith42 said:
Full list of photos:
Plug showing depth behind battery & rubber spacer (7mm depth; 5.0mm battery, 2.0mm rubber spacer):
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Nice, looks like plenty of room in there.
So were you between flossing or is that flosser thing for something else =]
The right-angle OTG cable that connects to the Nook's USB port is a fragile connection. I added two velcro "soft side" to the front and back of the Nook on it's bottom. Then I wrapped a piece of velcro "hard side" from the back, around the OTG connector and secured to the front to support the connector and hold it in place. It's not perfect, but it's a simple solution to the problem of the cable eventually breaking the solder connectors from the micro usb connector to the main board.
Otg?
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
OTG means On The Go. It's a type of USB connection.
Mmm, if I have your concept correct, wouldn't it be difficult to avoid blocking the "n" button?
How about filing a small notch in the top plate to allow a Velcro strip to exit between the top plate and the back.
You could permanently attach a small strip internally.
You could have it flapping loose and stick to a glued-on Velcro patch on the back.