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Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Good news - you can plug just about anything into it from 9V up to 18V and it should charge it. Theoretically, it should also support step up charging from USB (trickle charge) but I've yet to prove that. (The power management processor supports it, but it might not be in the hardware.)
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
So, if you find a connector that fits it, plug it in. Don't worry about the current draw - as long as it's 1A or GREATER it should work fine (the device won't pull more than an 1A, even though our chargers are spec'd for 2)
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
sunglint said:
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
From Wikipedia:
A second problem is that nominally "Twelve-Volt" power in cars fluctuates widely. The actual voltage will be approximately 12.5 volts when dormant, (less when cold) approximately 14.5 volts when the engine and the alternator/generator are operating, (more when cold) and may briefly drop as low as 5-6 volts during engine start.[7] DC/DC converters will usually compensate for these small fluctuations.[citation needed]
Rarely, more extreme cases of voltage fluctuation can occur when the car battery is disconnected while the engine is running, or when the car receives a jump start. When the battery is disconnected, a load dump transient can produce very high voltages. A car receiving a jump start from a truck will be subject to its 24 V electrical system.[8] A "double battery jump-start" is performed by some tow truck drivers in cold climates.[9]
Design wise one has to take into account intermittent contact, and voltages outside the nominal 12 V DC like top voltage 9-16 V continuously, top voltage at 20 V during 1 hour, 24 V during 1 minute, 40 V during 400 ms.[10] Protection component tolerance example ratings are +50 to -60 V DC[11] Besides this there's also varying temperatures between -40 till +85 °C to contend with that can affect humidity and condensation.[10] Equipment connected this way must tolerate large variations in electrical- and climate environment.
For more, look at table 20-1 in http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download/EMC_CS_2009rev1.pdf which is reference [10] in the Wikipedia article. Granted, that's very conservative, but a 1A 12V low drop out regulator is cheap insurance for a piece of kit like our tablets.
Interesting. If you plug in tablet and that part number into Google you get lots of familiar looking pictures:
http://www.kitarm.com/news/205-cortex-a9-nvidia-tegra2-tablet-pc-with-10.html (and the photos are marked with this site: http://www.okpbw.com/).
bnovak said:
Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aasoror said:
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you read the same post I did? His suggestion is that 19V is too high and still needs to be converted.
wd5gnr said:
While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, and thanks for the info. I do ham radio and already know to not plug things in until the car is running, actually learned that from xda years back from cell phone charging. I also use Anderson Powerpoles for the connections, very highly recommend these. This does mean that given the same precautions I already follow I can make up a nice charging cable pretty easily. And I'll certainly look in to the low voltage protection, just in case.
edit:just saw the call sign, 73s!
well unfortunately I can say that this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MYLLCC
doesnt work
actually it might
it just doenst fit......
sigh
My husband just remembered that we bought a power converter years ago to charge a laptop while traveling in Europe.
Would this work without any problems with the Gtab?
Found the model here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jg9JaV...er-Pocket-Inverter-175.html?tab=detailed_info
You mean by plugging in the AC charger to it? Should work fine. The output of the stock charger is about 24W so even if it is grossly inefficient, a 140W power inverter should be fine.
Naturally, I assume no risk, yada yada yada, your mileage may vary, void where prohibited by law.
Hey, if it helps anyone at all, I bought this car adapter from the radio shack and it works well. None of the included tips worked with my Gtab, so I cut the tip off my included wall charger and using two of the adapt-a-plug connectors also available at the shack, I made it so I can use the tip on either my wall charger or my car charger. Just gotta remember to take it with me, and of course get the polarity right. Its a regulated 12 volt charger, so it reduces some of the spikes and drops from the car battery, the amperage is correct, and the on/off switch means you can wait to turn it on until after the car is started. Reduces the amount of plugging and unplugging nicely.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3889594
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
LoganFive said:
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GTab can't be charged via USB
Power Brick
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
greymane98 said:
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another member reported earlier that he has researched the power management chip on the GTab and it will apparently run up 18v, this justify why many has been using the iGO Asus netbook tip successfully for so long.
Now for the woot deal, I wouldn't bother with a "refurbished" item when you can get the tried and working travel adapter for $18 (shipped) and $20 (for the version with the auto and airplane adapter) there is a confirmed tip that fits the gtab included.
http://www.buy.com/listing/sellerlistings.asp?sku=211343528&buy=0
http://www.buy.com/prod/-igo-40w-un...usb-4-power-tips-for/q/loc/101/219613586.html
Best of luck,
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
I've been using an iGo netbook charger for 3 weeks without any problem. I found it on sale at Office Depot for $8 the week before they dropped the GTab price to $300. Three weeks is probably only 7 or 8 charge cycles, but I've paid attention looking for hot spots, etc. and haven't noticed anything. I don't love the stiffness of the cable, but it was $8. I'm not complaining.
My only charging "problem" is that the silly thing wakes up when it hits 100% (VEGAn-TAB Ginger). Having the screen come on at full brightness just when I'm falling asleep was funny the first time, but it's getting annoying that I keep forgetting to power it off.
Dan
wd5gnr said:
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My mistake, I stand corrected, its 18v.
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
hopbros said:
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the end in the tablet itself, or the end with the wire that goes to the wall?
if it's the wire end, you can get new plugs at radioshack. But requires some soldering skill to get them on there.
or you can get a universal 12-18V / 1amp charger with multiple tips.
Hi,
I plan to disappear into the woods and come back out when I've finished my thesis (more or less). So I'm interested in buying a solar panel to use with my transformer and since people here seem pretty knowledgeable about charging the transformer I thought I would run it by you guys to make sure I do not miss something important.
I've gathered so far that I will need at least an 11v panel.
Also, it seems I need USB 3.0 to charge by USB. Is this correct?
And if I can't get USB 3.0 I will have to modify a 2.0 wire or plug or whatever... I prefer to avoid this
What should I go for in terms og Watts?
Would it be reccommendable to buy a panel with a battery to get a more even current?
Recommandations would be great!
Wow, I thought I was the only one that even remotely cared about this!
I have a Goal0 Nomad 7m. It's 12v, and I have had no luck getting it to charge my TF. Do you think it might be because of the USB 3.0 requirement?
Great that I'm not alone! Too bad that it doesn't work though...
I got the thing about USB 3.0 from this thread;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321
reading it again I noticed this line;
"The Asus charger does need a 3.0 cable extension to work. But with a DIY charger you don't need USB 3.0 cables or connectors."
So I'm not really sure if it makes a difference whether you use USB 2.0 or 3.0.
Anyway the specs for your Nomad says that it's 5v for USB output and 12v for DC output so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't work with the transformer.
Miki T. said:
Great that I'm not alone! Too bad that it doesn't work though...
I got the thing about USB 3.0 from this thread;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321
reading it again I noticed this line;
"The Asus charger does need a 3.0 cable extension to work. But with a DIY charger you don't need USB 3.0 cables or connectors."
So I'm not really sure if it makes a difference whether you use USB 2.0 or 3.0.
Anyway the specs for your Nomad says that it's 5v for USB output and 12v for DC output so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't work with the transformer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right!...that actually means there's options. Shouldn't something like this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inve...=UTF8&coliid=IUJZFD56YRM5K&colid=HQA2VAAM7MXY
I think I'm gonna have to order this, and give it a shot. I already have the panel & the DC jack, so I might as well.
Hey nice find! It seems like it should work, though don't take my word for it. I'm really ignorant of this stuff which is why I started the thread to begin with In any case $22 for a charger sounds fairly cheap.
Let me know if it works or not!
Solar panels that put out more than 28W (5V, 2A = 10W + 15V, 1.2A = 18W) would be enough, but then you'd likely want to run it through an inverter to get 110v AC, then the ASUS charger.
Until and unless ASUS comes out with a car charger that would work with the dock, running an inverter to generate an AC signal, then running it through the AC adapter will be the way to go.
Figuring in efficiency losses, you'll probably want 50-75W worth of solar panels for this to work. You can also use a 12v battery as a ballast.
FrayAdjacent said:
Solar panels that put out more than 28W (5V, 2A = 10W + 15V, 1.2A = 18W) would be enough, but then you'd likely want to run it through an inverter to get 110v AC, then the ASUS charger.
Until and unless ASUS comes out with a car charger that would work with the dock, running an inverter to generate an AC signal, then running it through the AC adapter will be the way to go.
Figuring in efficiency losses, you'll probably want 50-75W worth of solar panels for this to work. You can also use a 12v battery as a ballast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need 5V and 12V, only 12V. The Asus charger only puts out 5V for non-transformer devices. Don't introduce all the loss from the 110V converter, just charge a 12V battery with a panel(the Asus will draw 18 watts at full charge), then charge the transformer from the battery. Just get a usb extender, cut it, and hook negative to pin 4 and positive to pin 1. I would recommend a 5 Ohm resistor to limit amperage, but it isn't necessary.
I'd like to hear how it works out.
I was considering putting some flexible solar panels on the back of the transformer. But with the dock, I've got more than enough power for my needs. Plus, the back of the transformer won't get that much sunlight.
I'm now moving on to trying to put solar panels on the back of my cellphone (Huawei U8800). It's a great phone, and the battery lasts all day, so long as I don't play too many games.
One thing you might want to consider is an external battery pack. They are pretty cheap here in China, and have huge batteries in them. They even have some with built in solar panels. I'm sure you could find one that could recharge the Transformer. Then you could have the battery pack in the sun charging via the solar panel, and you sitting in the shade with the transformer. At night plug the battery up to the transformer to let it charge while you sleep. The transformer with dock should have more than enough battery life to last all day.
If I come across any useful information during my research, I'll let you know.
Miki T. said:
Hey nice find! It seems like it should work, though don't take my word for it. I'm really ignorant of this stuff which is why I started the thread to begin with In any case $22 for a charger sounds fairly cheap.
Let me know if it works or not!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it! ...and it will be here this afternoon. Thanks to Amazon Prime local delivery .
I'll let you know how/if it works out.
philburkhardt said:
I bought it! ...and it will be here this afternoon. Thanks to Amazon Prime local delivery .
I'll let you know how/if it works out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stuff like that is great for the car, but you're gonna lose SO much efficiency through it, then even more loss from the Asus charger plugged into it. A 15W solar panel should be enough to charge the TF directly. Using an inverter with the asus charger, you'll probably need 50-100W. Just FYI.
msticninja said:
Stuff like that is great for the car, but you're gonna lose SO much efficiency through it, then even more loss from the Asus charger plugged into it. A 15W solar panel should be enough to charge the TF directly. Using an inverter with the asus charger, you'll probably need 50-100W. Just FYI.
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Click to collapse
Yup, you're right. No go on charging the TF. Like you said, it will be great for charging things in the car. Just not off my 12W solar panel. I think I'm gonna have to upgrade my panel .
philburkhardt said:
Yup, you're right. No go on charging the TF. Like you said, it will be great for charging things in the car. Just not off my 12W solar panel. I think I'm gonna have to upgrade my panel .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The real joy of the TF is that it charges directly from 12 volts, so, assuming you have a 12 volt 12W panel, you should go get a 12 volt battery, 4AH(amp-hour) at least. It will be about the size of an old 6 volt lantern battery. Hook the panel to the battery to charge the battery, hook a female usb port to the battery, and hook the TF directly to the female usb port. You'll probably be able to get through a whole night on a 4AH battery + the TFs battery.
Great! Lots of useful replies... thanks a lot!
I plan on not using the adapter and use a USB extender the way msticninja wrote, since I don't want to carry or pay for something that delivers 50-100W.
I think I've found the panel I am going to buy. I cannot include outside links until I've posted 8 messages, but you can easily find it by googling "Portable 9x 2.5 W Solar Panel". So 22.5 Watt... that should suffice. That's at 18v * 1.25a.
It seems that all the solutions that comes with a battery are all quite pricey, but then I don't really need some fancy battery do I? Some do-it-yourself solution should be fine as long as the battery is rechargeable, 4AH("at least") and 12v right?
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
By the way, is the battery an absolute necessity or is that only if I want to charge during the evening/night?
What I hope to be able to do is; be away from mains for about one week at a time, and use my laptop, say, 8 hours a day. I hope this will be enough...
Miki T. said:
That's at 18v * 1.25a.
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Asus charger will put out 15V at most, as marked on the charger itself. I don't think I'd use anything higher than 12V into the tablet/dock. You'd probably want to use some kind of voltage regulator to drop the 18V to 12V.
Without knowing the internal workings of the dock/tablet, I can't really comment more than that.
Miki T. said:
Great! Lots of useful replies... thanks a lot!
I plan on not using the adapter and use a USB extender the way msticninja wrote, since I don't want to carry or pay for something that delivers 50-100W.
I think I've found the panel I am going to buy. I cannot include outside links until I've posted 8 messages, but you can easily find it by googling "Portable 9x 2.5 W Solar Panel". So 22.5 Watt... that should suffice. That's at 18v * 1.25a.
It seems that all the solutions that comes with a battery are all quite pricey, but then I don't really need some fancy battery do I? Some do-it-yourself solution should be fine as long as the battery is rechargeable, 4AH("at least") and 12v right?
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
By the way, is the battery an absolute necessity or is that only if I want to charge during the evening/night?
What I hope to be able to do is; be away from mains for about one week at a time, and use my laptop, say, 8 hours a day. I hope this will be enough...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will need some sort of voltage regulation to maintain 12V. That's pretty much a requirement for any solar charging system. Panels themselves do not usually have regulation, so the output voltage of the panel is a function of the amount of light the panel is receiving.
This is a really quick search, but this satisfies all the requirements for what you need, and it's only $20:
http://www.amazon.com/Ramsond-SunShield-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B0031FQ1S6
Feel free to search for alternatives, but use that as your starting point for searching.
Another quick search to give you an idea what you're looking for as far as batteries:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=12v+4ah+battery&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15393345737619657558&sa=X&ei=lq5MTsCGGMSCsgLgivmCBw&ved=0CHIQ8wIwAA
If I made something for myself, I'd use Lithium Ion cells and use a smart lipo charger to regulate the solar panel output, but it needs more research, and will cost more.
This will be interesting!
I've ordered the parts - the panel I mentioned, the Ramsond SunShield 12V 8A Solar Charge Controller Regulator that msticninja suggested and a Super Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V 6800mAh. I ordered the panel and the battery off of sunsky. They seem to have very fair prices.
All the parts came to a total of $164, shipping included. Compared to complete sets with the same specs I'd say that's a really good deal, provided I make it work
I'll let you know!
Miki T. said:
This will be interesting!
I've ordered the parts - the panel I mentioned, the Ramsond SunShield 12V 8A Solar Charge Controller Regulator that msticninja suggested and a Super Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V 6800mAh. I ordered the panel and the battery off of sunsky. They seem to have very fair prices.
All the parts came to a total of $164, shipping included. Compared to complete sets with the same specs I'd say that's a really good deal, provided I make it work
I'll let you know!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Give me a link to that Li-ion battery. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, you'll need to get a lipo charger instead of/in addition to the Ramsond regulator. I'll check it out for you.
EDIT: If it's this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-6800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion-Battery-/150530536976
it's hard to say, but I think it has it's own charging circuit, because the wall wart included with it doesn't look like a lithium charger. But it does have a charge finished light, so, if the light stays on when the battery isn't plugged in, you should be okay. If the green light only turns on when a fully charged battery is connected, then you might not be fine. Confirm what you're getting by posting a link, and I'll try to make sure. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, the battery will explode in a fireball.
EDIT2: This one has it's own charging circuit, and it sounds like it's what's inside the other one I linked, so you should be okay if it's either of these.
http://www.lunershop.com/product_info.php?language=en¤cy=USD&products_id=2566
Just wondering if something like this would help.
http://www.ioffer.com/i/solar-battery-panel-usb-charger-for-cell-phone-mp3-mp4-147450373?source=eisi
I have no understanding of electricity, except the basic 4th grade stuff. This is a cool project thought. I'm planning on making a 55 paracord strap that will attach to my case and fit like a messenger bag. Having solar panels to charge it and a paracord strap would make the TF a nice camping device
SwiftLegend said:
Just wondering if something like this would help.
http://www.ioffer.com/i/solar-battery-panel-usb-charger-for-cell-phone-mp3-mp4-147450373?source=eisi
I have no understanding of electricity, except the basic 4th grade stuff. This is a cool project thought. I'm planning on making a 55 paracord strap that will attach to my case and fit like a messenger bag. Having solar panels to charge it and a paracord strap would make the TF a nice camping device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, as discussed before, the TF uses 11-15V to charge, and normal USB chargers/backup batteries only put out 5V.
msticninja said:
Give me a link to that Li-ion battery. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, you'll need to get a lipo charger instead of/in addition to the Ramsond regulator. I'll check it out for you.
EDIT: If it's this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-6800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion-Battery-/150530536976
it's hard to say, but I think it has it's own charging circuit, because the wall wart included with it doesn't look like a lithium charger. But it does have a charge finished light, so, if the light stays on when the battery isn't plugged in, you should be okay. If the green light only turns on when a fully charged battery is connected, then you might not be fine. Confirm what you're getting by posting a link, and I'll try to make sure. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, the battery will explode in a fireball.
EDIT2: This one has it's own charging circuit, and it sounds like it's what's inside the other one I linked, so you should be okay if it's either of these.
http://www.lunershop.com/product_info.php?language=en¤cy=USD&products_id=2566
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fireballs are serious business...
The one I ordered is the blue one. I can't really confirm with a link since I cannot post external links until 8 posts but there shouldn't be any mistake. And it does say the following about it;
With its multi-protective device, the inner circuit pervents the box from over-recharging or over-discharging.so it should be safe I think...
********
UPDATE 1/10/2012
This below charger and USB adapter WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
Charged fast... from 20percent to 100 percent in 2 hours!!!!!
I can now STOP using the OEM charger which is crap!
Admin: Please add this to the list of working prime accessoriesMy first transformer Prime had charging issues, ( would not charge intermittently) and I found the OEM charger that ships with the prime to be sub-par.. So:
After checking out NUMEROUS threads, I just purchased the following charger and USB adapter from Radio Shack to Use with my Prime:
This particular model has been confirmed to work on the original Transformer-
Enercell AC to DC power adapter 12vdc 1.5A
Radio Shack Model # 273-358
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3807944
used together with this USB adapter:
Model #273-227
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3643549
Does anyone know if the above Enercell 12V 1.5A charger should work on the Prime?
see post #104 here in this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321&page=11
Also, can someone confirm the Tip polarity I should use? (I believe the prime uses Positive tip polarity just like the original transformer did?)
http://www.12volt-travel.com/knowledgebase/universal-adapter-tip-polarity/
Thanks for any feedback!
********
UPDATE 1/10/2012
This above charger and USB adapter WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
Charged fast... from 20percent to 100 percent in 2 hours!!!!!
I can now STOP using the OEM charger which is crap!
Admin: Please add this to the list of working prime accessories
********
UPDATE 1/10/2012
This above charger and USB adapter WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
Charged fast... from 20percent to 100 percent in 2 hours!!!!!
I can now STOP using the OEM charger which is crap!
The charger doesn't even get barely warm while it charges... much better than OEM for me!
Admin: Please add this to the list of working prime accessories
I thought I read somewhere that fast charges aren't good for the long term viability of lithium-based batteries.
---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_increase_the_runtime_of_your_wireless_device
Simple Guidelines to Prolong Lithium-ion Batteries
Do not discharge Li-ion too low; charge more often.
A random or partial charge is fine. Li-ion does not need a full charge.
Limit the time the battery resides at 4.20/cell (full charge), especially if warm.
Moderate the charge current to between 0.5C and 0.8C for cobalt-based lithium-ion. Avoid ultra-fast charging and discharging.
If the charger allows, lower the charge voltage limit to prolong battery life.
Keep the battery cool. Move it away from heat-generating environments. Avoid hot cars and windowsills.
High heat and full state-of-charge, not cycling, cause short battery life in laptops.
Remove battery from laptop when used on the power grid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I would avoid third-party chargers. Have had a lot of problems with them for laptops.
clankfu said:
Moderate the charge current to between 0.5C and 0.8C for cobalt-based lithium-ion. Avoid ultra-fast charging and discharging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Taking 2 hours to charge implies a 0.5C charge rate.
What's the rated voltage, current and wattage of the stock charger anyway?
Please note that the above charger won't work overseas. It's only got 110V.
webbrowser said:
Taking 2 hours to charge implies a 0.5C charge rate.
What's the rated voltage, current and wattage of the stock charger anyway?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stock charger is rated 15 volts DC @ 1.2 Amps
This radio Shack charger That is working for me is rated 12volts DC @ 1.5Amps.
I read the Transformer specs required to chagre are 11V to 15V DC @ 1A to 2A max
This charger fits within these specs, so that is why it works pretty well. The TP and the charger itself do not get hot at all, so I don't think this is causing any issues with the battery. Does anyone think a slightly quicker charge time will harm the battery long term?
Li-Ion Batteries are sensitive to fast charging. While it is within specs, your long term battery life could be affected. There is probably a reason that Asus decided to stay at the very bottom end of the spec.
nslayden said:
Li-Ion Batteries are sensitive to fast charging. While it is within specs, your long term battery life could be affected. There is probably a reason that Asus decided to stay at the very bottom end of the spec.
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I have done additional research due to above feed back in regard to Li-Ion's sensitivity with faster chargers.
Apparently, you are correct in regard to long term battery life concerns. I have only done 3 charges so far with the Radio Shack charger. I will let it drain down and switch over to the stock for now and just keep this other one as a backup. Is charging at 300MA more than OEM that much more of significant concern?
Better safe than sorry. Hopefully the few charges I have done did not cause any harm.... If the stock charger goes bad again though, I don't know if I would buy another one....
What was interesting is how hot the stock charger becomes in comparison to the radio shack model, which barely gets even warm. I always was a believer that more heat means less efficiency, so I'm somewhat confused, but I don't want to risk shortening the battery life, so I will go back to OEM stock charger for now, but reluctantly.
I wonder How these "alternative" chargers have effected the batteries for others with the original transformer?
That's an expensive charging setup... nearly $40 eek
mazjohn said:
I have done additional research due to above feed back in regard to Li-Ion's sensitivity with faster chargers.
Apparently, you are correct in regard to long term battery life concerns. I have only done 3 charges so far with the Radio Shack charger. I will let it drain down and switch over to the stock for now and just keep this other one as a backup. Is charging at 300MA more than OEM that much more of significant concern?
Better safe than sorry. Hopefully the few charges I have done did not cause any harm.... If the stock charger goes bad again though, I don't know if I would buy another one....
What was interesting is how hot the stock charger becomes in comparison to the radio shack model, which barely gets even warm. I always was a believer that more heat means less efficiency, so I'm somewhat confused, but I don't want to risk shortening the battery life, so I will go back to OEM stock charger for now, but reluctantly.
I wonder How these "alternative" chargers have effected the batteries for others with the original transformer?
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I wouldn't worry if I were you. What you bought is just an adapter with a USB socket. The part which decides how to charge the battery is inside the tablet. The requirement for the adapter is to have the same voltage as the original one and at least as much current ( meaning 1.2A or more). The tablet will only take what it needs.
Be careful http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&gl=US
susko said:
Be careful http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&gl=US
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It's always easy to scare people. It does say in the description of the movie that he did it by removing the protection circuit. They are designed with protection, so of course they will blow up without one.
Dude why so serious?
It was a joke thus a smiley was implemented. It is quite difficult to do that to a battery. Although I have seen some insane people in the RC hobby community destroy expensive cars and helicopter this way.
Lipo+ignorance=Hollywood style explosions
I saw the smile, don't worry. It is just that most of people, especially when they do not have the knowledge about something, tend to see the bad part (I'm also guilty of this, not in this domain though ).
So, it was not anything against you, the video is entertaining. I just wanted to put people at ease.
Charging Issues
It does not matter the type of rechargeable battery, any "quick charge" will reduce the battery life. I personally don't think 300mA is that much of a difference, but am sure the battery life would be reduced somewhat over time. Nor would I worry much from just 3 charges.
However I don't think we should have to shell out an additional $40 just because Asus can't build quality components. Mine quit charging consistently yesterday (week and a half). I guess we can put it in the same category as GPS...non professional and spotty at best.
EatMy45 said:
However I don't think we should have to shell out an additional $40 just because Asus can't build quality components. Mine quit charging consistently yesterday (week and a half). I guess we can put it in the same category as GPS...non professional and spotty at best.
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Don't worry, ASUS will remove the charger from the SPECs and say it is no longer supported, problem solved...
I'm looking for an external battery charger (preferably solar powered) for taking my Note on backpacking trips. Unfortunately, most of the solar packs that I've found have only .5 - .7 amps available for USB output. If I'm using a 1amp charging cable (with the data leads shorted), will .7 amps kick in the AC charging speed? Is .5 amps enough to charge the phone while I sleep for 7 hours?
I suppose it depends on how long you are out without power but another alternative is an external battery that allows you to charge your phone by plugging it into the external battery.
This one here (at $75 USD) will let you charge the Note from completely dead to a full complete charge 4.4 times.
http://www.amazon.com/New-Trent-IMP...Z64Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1336084828&sr=8-2
So, if you started your backpacking with a full charge on both the phone and the battery pack, and assuming you charge the phone every night at say 20% battery left, you should get 6 days. If you need more than that, you can just buy a second battery pack (personally, Id want to have two just in case).
That's a good suggestion from littlewierdo. I would also have at least 2 spare batteries for the note. I don't think that .5 amps is enough.
Budge said:
I'm looking for an external battery charger (preferably solar powered) for taking my Note on backpacking trips. Unfortunately, most of the solar packs that I've found have only .5 - .7 amps available for USB output. If I'm using a 1amp charging cable (with the data leads shorted), will .7 amps kick in the AC charging speed? Is .5 amps enough to charge the phone while I sleep for 7 hours?
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Budge I had an HTC evo 4g and got a 5400mah battery. This worked ok. However the output is .5a which will not charge the note if you are using maps with gps or bluetooth or playing tunes. It wil charge when not using those. Say at night when you are asleep. I think you would have to find a battery with output better than 1a to actually charge when you are actively using your phone. I am not sure of the actual output you would need. I will research it though for my own needs. I do use my note on my motorcyle with a charger which outputs .5a and this is nowhere near what is needed to use google maps and bluetooth and play tunes.
I am actively looking for a solution which will charge my note while using google maps, bluetooth, and playing tunes etc. I may have found a solution with a usb y cable which is connected a 2a source and a .5a source on my motorcycle.
The only solution for backpacking may be to charge when not using the note. I am fairly sure it will charge at .5a when sleeping.
Good luck.
kimtyson said:
That's a good suggestion from littlewierdo. I would also have at least 2 spare batteries for the note. I don't think that .5 amps is enough.
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imesg said:
I am actively looking for a solution which will charge my note while using google maps, bluetooth, and playing tunes etc. I may have found a solution with a usb y cable which is connected a 2a source and a .5a source on my motorcycle.
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Im not sure where you got the .5 amps from, it outputs 1 amp, so it will charge the Note with the screen on. However, it wont charge quite as fast as the wall charger will it will actually charge the phone.
It should be able to handle keeping the screen on, bluetooth doesnt use much power at all so playing music shouldnt be an issue and gps uses very little battery as well. I dont see an issue with it.
Admittedly, I dont have one of these, dont really have much of a use for one at the moment but I cant possibly see any issues with this.
HOWEVER, there are alternative external battery packs that are MUCH cheaper with less mah capacity (meaning, in simple speak, you would get less power storage meaning that you wouldnt be able to charge your phone as many times as you might like). There are other USB battery packs that might also have less power output (or more) which might mean that you wouldnt be able to keep the screen on AND charge the phone.
Truth be told, I only looked for the highest capacity battery pack given what your situation was AND I tend to buy higher end if the price makes sense. In the case of battery packs similar to this design (external usb battery packs), they generally start at $30 and go to about $80 so buying the best possible makes sense. However, if the highest/best possible was $200, Id probably get something cheaper, but since its only ~$80, if I were in your shoes, that would be my choice.
Id probably consider getting two of them (that is, if we are talking about longer than 1 week excursions, if under a week, just get 1) and a decently long usb cable (3-4 ft) but not too long (you dont want to be tripping over the cable but you need it long enough that if you need to, you can charge the phone mid-day while hiking).
You dont need multiple batteries for the Note, the whole point of this external battery pack is to eliminate the need for them.
littlewierdo said:
Im not sure where you got the .5 amps from, it outputs 1 amp, so it will charge the Note with the screen on. However, it wont charge quite as fast as the wall charger will it will actually charge the phone.
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littlewierdo I was not necessarily speaking of the device you suggested but one I had. I was warning Budge to be careful and not get a device which outputs only .5a. I was suggesting that he find one which will put out 2a if such exists. The device which you suggested will put out 1a. However I don't believe this would be enough for my purposes and maybe no Budge's either. i was not refering to your device or you. Not my intent to get in an argument with you but to help Budge find a suitable solution.
link to imp1000 manual:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNFPt8XfUpeSr8olPnKLYCivrRvqFg&cad=rja
Couldn't make the link post as a link. Do a search for 'imp1000 manual'.
Ciao
Littlewierdo- I didn't disagree with your suggestion to use another battery pack to charge the existing battery. In fact, I have one and use that option myself. I was adding that it may be a good idea to have a spare. I was responding to the OP who mentioned .5 amps. I assume that's where imesg was coming from, too.
Looking for some Dash Charger cables...I am wondering if anyone knows any that are a bit cheaper than OnePlus's site? hoping to find one that's a bit longer than 100cm. Maybe 6ft?
I ordered one in Aliexpress, if you ping me in a week or two I will be able to tell you whether it really supports DaSH
This one is good, but it's 1m length.
I've just receive this one, exactly the same as the official, haven't see any difference.
Voltage and Ampere values are fine too (tested with Ampere app).
Got this one at 1.5m: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ori...ast-Quick-charging-data-sync/32716728181.html
Been working fine for proper Dash Charge.
debork said:
Got this one at 1.5m: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ori...ast-Quick-charging-data-sync/32716728181.html
Been working fine for proper Dash Charge.
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Link isn't working. Please fix.
masiegel said:
Link isn't working. Please fix.
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Working fine here. Please use initiative.
It seems dangerous to use non official cable don't you think ? If one day anker or any other well known brand made one i will go for it but i don't trust aliexpress
Zenouzenou said:
It seems dangerous to use non official cable don't you think ? If one day anker or any other well known brand made one i will go for it but i don't trust aliexpress
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Why would you think so? The original ones are made in China, so I really don't see a difference. It's a cable, not exactly rocket science. As long as the wires are thick enough. 4A will be fine. Even if you get a fake or badly made one, the phone will not be able to dash charge, or the wire will get pretty hot. All easily identifiable and then dispose of crappy wire or just use it for data only.
No point spending more. I've one on the way from China for under 5 Usd. That's a few tries before I get to the price level of the brand name makers.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Zenouzenou said:
It seems dangerous to use non official cable don't you think ? If one day anker or any other well known brand made one i will go for it but i don't trust aliexpress
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It's true only if you buy poor quality
Ampere & voltage are ok so...
debork said:
Got this one at 1.5m:
Been working fine for proper Dash Charge.
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Hello,
no problems with this cable? Is it safe?
Does anyone know this cheap cable?
https://www.tvc-mall.com/details/on...data-cable-1m-for-oneplus-3-sku10151025a.html
Go for amazonbasics type C cable from amazon !!
Tribune9 said:
Go for amazonbasics type C cable from amazon !!
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These aren't Dash compatible though.
Not voltage compliant - 3rd party/China chargers
debork said:
Got this one at 1.5m: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ori...ast-Quick-charging-data-sync/32716728181.html
Been working fine for proper Dash Charge.
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Take a look at the last screenshot. Note the Voltage value - IN RED.
While most electronics have a fair amount of 'slack' around voltages, it's usually like 4.8 to 5.2. That 4.3V is too low. You might be getting a charge, but I'm skeptical it's all three; safe, durable and performs on par.
Jus' sayin'.
I've just received the charger and cables from the following link. Charger is oppo branded, but it works the same as a dash charger. Tested the cables with the original charger and the original cable with the oppo charger.
Seems anything that is oppo vooc is essentially the same as dash. So just need to get it through your usual Chinese reseller.
https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?id=536245344526&_ezgpid=20000004174482
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
lordbear said:
Take a look at the last screenshot. Note the Voltage value - IN RED.
While most electronics have a fair amount of 'slack' around voltages, it's usually like 4.8 to 5.2. That 4.3V is too low. You might be getting a charge, but I'm skeptical it's all three; safe, durable and performs on par.
Jus' sayin'.
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I'm almost certain this is the battery voltage itself, i.e. what you'd get a read from /sys/class/power_supply/battery/voltage_now. This is not the same as charger/cable voltage.
At any rate, here are Ampere readouts with my official OP5 dash charger, which you can see has almost identical voltages:
w/ official OP5 cable: https://i.imgur.com/Neb9u0u.png
w/ Aliexpress 1.5m cable: https://i.imgur.com/nZbkUO4.png
I do notice that the 1.5m runs slightly lower on peak amperage, maxed out around 3.2A vs 3.4A within the 50-70% battery range I was watching it in just now.
debork said:
I'm almost certain this is the battery voltage itself, i.e. what you'd get a read from /sys/class/power_supply/battery/voltage_now. This is not the same as charger/cable voltage.
At any rate, here are Ampere readouts with my official OP5 dash charger, which you can see has almost identical voltages:
w/ official OP5 cable: https://i.imgur.com/Neb9u0u.png
w/ Aliexpress 1.5m cable: https://i.imgur.com/nZbkUO4.png
I do notice that the 1.5m runs slightly lower on peak amperage, maxed out around 3.2A vs 3.4A within the 50-70% battery range I was watching it in just now.
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Interesting. Thanks for the SS. I certainly don't understand the 4.2V value. At 70% charged, I'd think it would be a bit higher. Perhaps in operation the VReg has to over-pull from the battery to step things up to nominal...
Musing: Does DASH include some kind of "smart charge" tech that uses the USB cable circuit to polls voltage at the charger, physically? Without that, then I surmise it's measuring the voltage it sees at the USB-->DC circuit IN the phone.
lordbear said:
Interesting. Thanks for the SS. I certainly don't understand the 4.2V value. At 70% charged, I'd think it would be a bit higher. Perhaps in operation the VReg has to over-pull from the battery to step things up to nominal...
Musing: Does DASH include some kind of "smart charge" tech that uses the USB cable circuit to polls voltage at the charger, physically? Without that, then I surmise it's measuring the voltage it sees at the USB-->DC circuit IN the phone.
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AFAIK most smartphone lithium-ion batteries have a nominal voltage around 3.8V, charging voltage around 4.25V.
As far as DASH/VOOC charging, there definitely is some 'smart charge' stuff going on in the charger itself, which is why I'm not as worried about the cable being 3rd party, but would never think of getting a non-OPO DSH or non-OPPO VOOC charger. I couldn't speak to exactly what it does though.
Wait, now that I think of it there was some row from a Google dev a year ago or so about the proper resistor rating in 'safe' USB C cables...
Edit: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-to-find-safe-usb-type-c-cables ok this seems to say the danger with USBC cables is around having charging sources like laptops that can't deliver enough amperage. Which fortunately shouldn't be an issue then if you just use it with the DASH charger...
Got my DASH car charger including a cable and it works as intended with DASH mode. The cable alone also properly works with my 100% genuine wall charger.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DAS...nal-1-DASH-Type-c-data-Cable/32822825492.html