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Hi there,
I searched before posting this, but couldn't find anything for the Atrix...
Just wondering if anyone has seen/made a guide to replace the Glass/digitizer for the Motorola Atrix?
As to why I'm asking:
(If the image links don't work, you can find them as attachments to this post)
I've damaged the plastic around the glass (basically the housing, near the usb port) but I need to remove it from the digitizer...
I bought this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572442&stc=1&d=1303199913
But as the ifixit teardown guide shows...
(http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572441&stc=1&d=1303199913),
...When you take the phone apart, the glass is one with the housing.. Has anyone done this replacement of the digitizer or housing, if so, can you offer any suggestions, and what you used as adhesive to reattach the digitizer?
I've repaired the iPhone 3Gs and iPhone 4 before, both ranking higher in difficulty on ifixit's site, so I'm guessing the ATRIX should be a lot easier...
Anyways, any helpful tips or any guides would be greatly appreciated. I've already checked Google but no luck...
keithgrobertson said:
Hi there,
I searched before posting this, but couldn't find anything for the Atrix...
Just wondering if anyone has seen/made a guide to replace the Glass/digitizer for the Motorola Atrix?
As to why I'm asking:
(If the image links don't work, you can find them as attachments to this post)
I've damaged the plastic around the glass (basically the housing, near the usb port) but I need to remove it from the digitizer...
I bought this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572442&stc=1&d=1303199913
But as the ifixit teardown guide shows...
(http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572441&stc=1&d=1303199913),
...When you take the phone apart, the glass is one with the housing.. Has anyone done this replacement of the digitizer or housing, if so, can you offer any suggestions, and what you used as adhesive to reattach the digitizer?
I've repaired the iPhone 3Gs and iPhone 4 before, both ranking higher in difficulty on ifixit's site, so I'm guessing the ATRIX should be a lot easier...
Anyways, any helpful tips or any guides would be greatly appreciated. I've already checked Google but no luck...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/1
Or, this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbR56jSplRs
Broke my digitizer and did the job myself using the youtube guide above. Just used straight up superglue to glue digitizer to frame. I put a bunch on the top and bottom and very little on the sides.
Amazingly the phone worked when i put it back together... for a while until I screwed up one of the ribbons by opening it a bunch more times. Be extra careful with these, especially the volume/camera ribbon. You can bend it pretty easily trying to slide it back into its slot.
Good luck.
NB: Theres places that will do it for as little as $90 in case you don't want to take the risk.
http://www.ubreakifix.com/
Thanks for posting the youtube link. I can't even quote the post because it involves an external link. The video was vague on details and the quality is crap but it did the trick.
My Arix got under the tires of a car (please dont ask how ) and only the digitizer broke, then i replace it with an OEM digitizer from amazon and now the proximity sensor is malfunctioning (Turns off the screen when im not near it or doesnt turns off when im near it), and there is a line of the screen that doesn't respond to tact. could it be the digitizer that came defective, or maybe it was the installation? oh, the other digitizer was broken and all but the light sensor was working fine and also the other thing. Sorry for my bad grammar.
Metacat said:
My Arix got under the tires of a car (please dont ask how ) and only the digitizer broke, then i replace it with an OEM digitizer from ebay and now the proximity sensor is malfunctioning (Turns off the screen when im not near it or doesnt turns off when im near it), and there is a line of the screen that doesn't respond to tact. could it be the digitizer that came defective, or maybe it was the installation? oh, the other digitizer was broken and all but the light sensor was working fine and also the other thing. Sorry for my bad grammar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I replaced my digitizer, and had the EXACT same thing happen (not the light sensor but the line in the screen that doesnt respond to touch).
Get a new digitizer, but get it from someone else.
That's what i feared, did you changed it back again afther that, and did it worked? and thanks.
Metacat said:
That's what i feared, did you changed it back again afther that, and did it worked? and thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. I sold it and let someone else deal with it. Didn't have the time to replace the digitizer again. Too much of a hassle.
I just replaced a digitizer on an atrix... i didnt put any adhesive on it because there was what i thought was adhesive strips on the digitizer... but there's strips on the screen that doesnt respond, i heated it n tried reattaching the digitizer a few times n sometimes the home and back button will work, sometimes they wont... any suggestions? could the lack of adhesive cause this?
Menu buttons problem
if menu buttons is freeze till I block and then unblock my phone is it digitizer problem ?
what do you mean by " block/unblock" ?
Sent from my HTC Desire CDMA using XDA
He means lock/unlock.
Go the ifixit route!
Just went through 3 digitizers in my repair, and wanted to share my experience/caveats
I bought one digitizer from All4Cellular for $25, and the others with a 20% discount a few days later, for $20.
I installed
the first using the RepairUniverse Youtube 'how-to' method, and had a heck of a time threading the flex cables through the slot. Bent/twisted it too much, and nothing responded on the touchscreen, so I read some forum posts on how fragile they were, and regarded that as user error.
Got the idea to move the LCD screen from another RepairUniverse YouTube video and a previous post here, and tried installing the digitizer from the front face of the phone. It was still a delicate matter to bend the flex cable so that it fit through the slot, and then re-position the LCD and align the sticky strips of the digitizer on the LCD and casing. Part of the digitizer worked this time - a 1cm vertical strip on the left fowled any attempt to touch icons or use a keyboard, so I thought I had damaged things again (doh!).
Hoping third time was the charm, I completely disassembled the phone using the guide in the 'ifixit' link, since a digitizer/case assembly was suggested in another thread. The rear camera just needs to be raised above the casing so the thin plate can move upward, and the LCD pops out easily if the sides of the casing are delicately pulled. The digitizer can be positioned easily and with minimal bending/twisting of the flex cables.
When reconnecting everything the third time, I noticed that pressing down on the front camera / digitizer connection *with the rubber boot in place* didn't pass when pulling the connected assembly upward. So I pulled the rubber boot out of the way and snapped the camera / digitizer connection firmly, then re-inserted the boot. A loose connection might have been the culprit for the nonfunctioning part of the digitizer in the second test.
@MrSaba - I had the same issue with capacitive buttons - perhaps because the screen senses touch and disables those buttons. Replacing the digitizer solved the issue
trouble
Hello friends,
Here's my story - broke a screen, as usual slipped from my pocket. though broken, digitizer worked fine. after replacement with new one (digitizer only) - no luck it didn't work. bought a new one, this time with a plastic part around it to avoid damage to it's cable. after careful repair no luck once again - does not work at all. downloaded a testing app (i was able to remote control the phone with a piece of soft called androidscreencast), everything is ok, except digitizer. checked and rechecked all ribbons and connectors 10 times, nothing seems to be broken or twisted.
what's your opinion, is it worth buying third one ? what part of my repair went wrong ?
thanks
drZeT said:
Hello friends,
Here's my story - broke a screen, as usual slipped from my pocket. though broken, digitizer worked fine. after replacement with new one (digitizer only) - no luck it didn't work. bought a new one, this time with a plastic part around it to avoid damage to it's cable. after careful repair no luck once again - does not work at all. downloaded a testing app (i was able to remote control the phone with a piece of soft called androidscreencast), everything is ok, except digitizer. checked and rechecked all ribbons and connectors 10 times, nothing seems to be broken or twisted.
what's your opinion, is it worth buying third one ? what part of my repair went wrong ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all digitizers are created equal. The ones that ship with the red stripe on the backing are junk. Spend more money and yes buying with a frame is key. Did you try reinstalling the original screen or did that ship sail already?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
jjwatmyself said:
Not all digitizers are created equal. The ones that ship with the red stripe on the backing are junk. Spend more money and yes buying with a frame is key. Did you try reinstalling the original screen or did that ship sail already?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The first one was with the red stripe indeed, from china. The one with a frame came from UK, "used but tested OK". original screen is gone - tore off flex cable while removing.
Well, update...
2 screens bought on eBay were BAD. Had to wait full month for authorised motorola service to change the digitizer. Must say though that both merchants on ebay refunded, no questions asked. Lessons learned - pay more, wait longer, never give up
DrJCFitz said:
the first using the RepairUniverse Youtube 'how-to' method, and had a heck of a time threading the flex cables through the slot. Bent/twisted it too much, and nothing responded on the touchscreen, so I read some forum posts on how fragile they were, and regarded that as user error.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I noticed on their video was that their folded digitizer connector magically unseats itself during the disassembly transition. I had to pry mine off based purely on guesswork and think I might have broken the flip-chip that is stuck onto the frame with double-sided tape. Like yours, my touchscreen doesn't respond at all, despite there being no cable tears. I'm going to try and re-heat that flip chip and maybe get the connections to work again (doubtful).
To anyone else out there attempting this... when you go to remove the touchscreen, HEAT THE CONNECTOR so that you can gently pry it out!
Bad screen I got 3 before it worked its fine now if old one partially works new one doesn't screen is junk took mine apart several times to figure out screens were junk...guess they felt sorry for me give me my money back plus free working screen.from amazon
Also that lock clamp u mentioned first video I watched didn't show unlocking that I just pulled it out and pushed back in it was the 2 screen that I figured out it needed to be pryed loose by the white clamp but guess I didn't damage it..
Sent from my HTC One X+ using xda premium
I have just put in my second digitiser. The first was one had a red stripe, which was junk, the second on I bought had the plastic round the edge and the digitiser.
I put it in and it worked fine no dead spots at all. Then 12 hours in it started to stop working intermittently. Then 24 hours after that while on charge its dead again. I reflashed notattrix and still nothing. I've confirmed all the ribbon connectors are firmly in place and everything looks right.
Any ideas whats wrong?
thanks
Jonnym
Do anyone has video or pdf or wtever guide to give the instruction how to disassemble the flyer?(i am thinking to repair the flyer myself) Thank you
Here you go:
www.techrepublic.com/photos/crackin...3?seq=2&tag=content;siu-container#photo-frame
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
athris said:
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there is a note in the techrepublic teardown about it being bonded like a smartphone. You should however be vary careful given the size of the screen more heat (not temperature) is required, and the risk of thermally cracking the underlying LCD panel is correspondingly higher.
Beware! Learn from my adventures.
So, I took apart my wife's HTC Flyer this past week to replace the screen. While the Techrepublic teardown shots are helpful, it's missing about ten steps at the end that involve actually removing the screen. I've messed around with tabletpc's and laptops before but not cell phones so wasn't really prepared for the fact that you have to pretty much take the whole Flyer apart in order to be able to get the screen off. As far as I can tell, no one else has documented taking one of these apart to replace the screen. I will write up something more involved when I get a chance but here's a couple things that I found out about the screen.
1. The part of the screen that you touch with your finger and stylus is not glass! It is a heavy plastic layer that is adhered to the glass digitizer. It is clear with the black around the edge and cutout for the HTC logo. This was the part of my screen that had chips in it. I tried to use a screen repair kit to repair the chips (which I did) but it took off the outer, darker finish in the process. So I moved to the next step, replacing the screen. I didn't know about the outer layer, otherwise that would have been much easier to replace. But, I don't think you can get that part unless you have connections with HTC.
2. The outer layer/digitizer glass comes as one part (along with the n-trig connector). I ordered mine for around $50 on ebay.
3. You will need to take the back off and much of the motherboard to be able to disconnect the n-trig connector.
4. Taking the screen off will take heat. I used a hair dryer but more heat could be better although you have to be careful of the lcd underneath. My digitizer broke while removing and ending up putting a small gouge in the lcd. I was able to fix the lcd well enough, just be careful.
5. HTC used a buttload of sticky tape to secure the glass to the lcd and case. My cheap blue pry tool quickly broke so I ended up using a plastic butter knife to separate digitizer from the case. Once off, I used Goo Be Gone to get rid of all the sticky tape from it. I'm ready to put new tape on but I'm not sure exactly what they used. Anyone have any ideas? It's a black, closed cell sticky tape that is really stringy when it comes to taking off. Most of the stuff I see for sale online seems to be really thin stuff. I picked up some Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape by 3M that looks to be similar that I am going to experiment with. Anyone know for sure what they used?
6. I put the new digitizer on temporarily to check to see if it worked and it did (yay)! But I still need need to cut all of the tape and put it in the right spot. There are also these little plastic tabs that go on the backside of the screen. They are used to refract light from the led's to light up the outside navigation buttons. Be careful not to lose these. I did, and had to make one. We'll see how I did once I get it back together.
7. I found that there's not a lot of parts out there for these things. At least not compared to cell phones. Now that they're being discontinued, I don't know if that is going to help.
Anyway, I took a few pics along the way and will try to write something up when I get more time. I just wanted to give folks a heads-up on the screen and how it's put together. I can't imagine the View's screen is any different. So whatever they're using for the outer layer isn't Gorilla Glass. Or is it?
UPDATE:
Here are the promised photos of this disaster. I'll add the commentary tomorrow (I'm tired).
Two more comments and I can finally upload my photos.
I need to replace my LCD and Glass...anyone know where I can order these parts...I cant find them anywhere.
Hard to find parts for the Flyer/View which could be a problem. Looks like some is selling an LCD, though on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PH-LCD-HT-2...360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bf8f0390 from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
I purchased mine here and it works great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260906551668?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Much better price. What kind of tape did you use? Also did you have to replace any of the light reflacting plastic tabs that are used to light the buttons around the outside of the digitizer?
Sent from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
Will a replacement screen for the Flyer work well on a View?
I don't see why not. Except for some of the internals, they are pretty much identical hardware wise.
is it an easy enough job the remove and change the full galaxy s2 housing ?
Mines is a little rough looking and can see online the housing cases can be removed and replaced.
Worth buying?
Thanks
Im not sure if you need to take the screen off the top housing bit.The middle housing is easy enough to change as long as all the components come off ok.They are taped in and bear in mind other people have removed then reinstalled components and faults appear.
I once tried to pry out the vibrating module(is a unit that does other things I cant remember) and it basically split in half because the tape stuff that held it in wouldnt release the bloody thing.....lol
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
LScottB said:
is it an easy enough job the remove and change the full galaxy s2 housing ?
Mines is a little rough looking and can see online the housing cases can be removed and replaced.
Worth buying?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well...i guess out of vids, tuts n' stuff that if u want to replace full housing of s2 you need too pry out touch screen with amoled and all hardware aswell....i've broken gorilla glass but amoled luckily still works fine....BUT..,i opened my s2....ripped all parts out of it....i mean all parts.....and came to touch screen part where i had to heat it up from front part and when i thought i heated it up enough i tryed to pry out gorilla glass.....BUT....due to cracked glass it started cracking even more(and gorilla glass &amoled are bonded together)...,so i stopped and put it back together before amoled cracks....i was so lucky......because i lost only my touch keys(back & menu) due to another crack that appeared but amoled is still working.......so....i think if i'd have a non broken glass i could detach and pull it apart easily....and eventually put it back together....it's not that hard really....those parts...e.g. vibrator module, sensors & stuff....they are bonded on housing with double sided tape...and it's pretty strong....
but if u're an expert...you can do it....you just have to be very careful to not to break any of those parts....
so....if i were u...i'd give it a shot....and i'll replace my complete touch screen as soon as i receive my payment and order it on ebay....then i'll try to detach old broken glass from amoled & i'll try to keep it alive...I'll make a video aswell...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Sent from my SGS-II powered by CM9
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
I have been replacing the glass screen on my S3 it came off nicely and the lcd if fine. Then i realised i had cut through the cable for the menu and return button. I see there are replacemnt on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Samsung-G...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2a1ebb05f7
I have not put the new glass screen on yet
can i repair thiss ? and should i keep the screen off till i can ?
please help time is an issue
Check if the part you see on ebay can be removed from the screen you have. On the SII, this part was sandwiched between the plastic mounting and the screen - I smashed my screen trying to separate the two.
it was attached to the glass screen then went into the body of the phone, I have already removed the glass screen to replace it but cut through the cable. I could attach a new one between the phone and the glass. screen but unsure how i would get the rest of it through the phone.
You could always just install a ROM with on-screen buttons instead.
I gave up and put the new screen on t he buttons for menu and back don't work. As far as I van see he ribbon was attached to the back of the LCD and I ws not removing that. So I'll have to get a new expensive screen replacement . Pity cos the rest is perfect. Can I get these buttons or gestures on my phone without a new Rom ?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1808882
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Update. Ok so I got my screen replaced. But they gave me the old one attached to the case-chasse. I had sent for a replacement button Cable like that one above. I heated it up carefully and removed the g lass. With some very delicate surgery I was able to replaced.fix the ribbon. It worked. I replaced the adhesive strip and now I have a spare screen that works well. I used lens cleaner and a cloth you get with a screen protector. There is some very slight dust but unnoticeable in use. I should probably sell it but not sure how to describe it on eBay . Could I sell it as home refurbished.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
If yo need to replace your menu cable. First unplug the cable from the gap in the back of the plate. Use small a littlenpressure to lift the chip near it of the silver insulating tape beneath. Then I pulled out the ld cable and gently uwhed the new one the right way up through the gap at the front with a blunt pin. You may need small non tooth forceps to pull it through and push new nd or ribbon into female connector. Remove sticky tape on button and apply to clean screen.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
felixthecat said:
If yo need to replace your menu cable. First unplug the cable from the gap in the back of the plate. Use small a littlenpressure to lift the chip near it of the silver insulating tape beneath. Then I pulled out the ld cable and gently uwhed the new one the right way up through the gap at the front with a blunt pin. You may need small non tooth forceps to pull it through and push new nd or ribbon into female connector. Remove sticky tape on button and apply to clean screen.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That actually worked with the LCD still glued to the frame? I would think the LEDs themselves would break while pushing it through. Anyone else try this or have another method?
Release the connector
insanity2 said:
That actually worked with the LCD still glued to the frame? I would think the LEDs themselves would break while pushing it through. Anyone else try this or have another method?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi , how do i release the connection in the connector and the cable ? , should i lift it up but in what direction ?.
Thanks
---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:56 PM ----------
felixthecat said:
Update. Ok so I got my screen replaced. But they gave me the old one attached to the case-chasse. I had sent for a replacement button Cable like that one above. I heated it up carefully and removed the g lass. With some very delicate surgery I was able to replaced.fix the ribbon. It worked. I replaced the adhesive strip and now I have a spare screen that works well. I used lens cleaner and a cloth you get with a screen protector. There is some very slight dust but unnoticeable in use. I should probably sell it but not sure how to describe it on eBay . Could I sell it as home refurbished.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi , how did you replace this cable ? how did i release the connection from the socket ?
Thanks
S3 Flex ribbon cable replacement success
Do a Youtube search for "Galaxy S3 menu return flex cable repair 2013 May 3" for a little more info on the general idea behind the repair. Below is what I did to get it to work.
I got this fix to work successfully with part V1.0 even though the original was V3.0. I heated up a mini flathead screwdriver, and used it like a scraper to remove enough plastic to open the channel on the left side of the recess (looking at the phone from the front). I bent 2 pins at about a 90 degree angle and gently slid them in on the backside(inside) of the phone. They should be alongside the ribbon cable on either side. GENTLY pull them down to provide the last bit of leverage to slide out the old cable. New one wriggled in same way with a little help from mini pliers/tweezers to pull it the rest of the way through. Wanted to do a video, but not really set up for it. Got pics though.
Cheers!
Tried to replace my broken ultra screen but damaged the main ribbon that connects to the motherboard. Have bought a new ribbon but not sure how i should attach it. Anyone know?
The original ribbon looked like it was just glued on.
Ukbondraider said:
Tried to replace my broken ultra screen but damaged the main ribbon that connects to the motherboard. Have bought a new ribbon but not sure how i should attach it. Anyone know?
The original ribbon looked like it was just glued on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Made by robot...to small for human eye and precision. It requires you to have a facility to have it mounted again or a solder oven if you are able to handle the parts with this kind of precision needed.
Toss it in the bin or sell it...you can buy a new device for less than the cost of attaching it/send for repair and get a new motherboard.
If you know some old school gaming console modder you might have some luck. Not many have these precise skills these days.
Ok thanks for the info. Do you know if there is a way to boot the phone without using the power button. It appears that the new screen works as when I plug in a charger the Sony logo on the screens turns on as too does the pic of the battery. I just cant get the power button to work. It looks like this maybe the area affected from the small damaged part of the ribbon.
If only I could boot it. Pity its not like an iphone that boots upon charging.
Ukbondraider said:
Ok thanks for the info. Do you know if there is a way to boot the phone without using the power button. It appears that the new screen works as when I plug in a charger the Sony logo on the screens turns on as too does the pic of the battery. I just cant get the power button to work. It looks like this maybe the area affected from the small damaged part of the ribbon.
If only I could boot it. Pity its not like an iphone that boots upon charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can get the volume button to work you can boot the phone with fastboot reboot
anisotropic adhisive film/tape
the adhisive that attaches the flex cable to pcb is anistropic adhisive film. its fairly easy to attach the cable but the materials is very expensive and hard to handle. I have replace my ZU flex cable using a strip of this film and a spatula soldering iron or t-type soldering iron(because its T shaped). clamp the board firmly, applied the ADF, pre-heat it to 50°c, align the flex and apply heat 150°c with 3 kilos of force for 25 seconds and your done. I got my ADF form work.
Ive spent more than I wanted to, to fix my Ultra. £50 for screen and £20 for other bits and bobs including new ribbon and back glass.
Just annoyed that the rubbish youtube videos showing how to replace the screen did not make clear how to remove the motherboard from the phone without damaging the ribbon.
Anyway I will see if anyone can glue the the new ribbon to the motherboard for me but will only pay around £10. Some of the folks I emailed want £20 to just to diagnose the issue which was already clearly stated to them. Therefore it looks like this may not happen.
Otyerwise I will wait for a broken Ultra to sell on ebay for around £10.
Love this phone for its size but have the Z3 and Z3 tablet as my two daily phones to keep me going till the Z5 premium.
Ukbondraider said:
Ive spent more than I wanted to, to fix my Ultra. £50 for screen and £20 for other bits and bobs including new ribbon and back glass.
Just annoyed that the rubbish youtube videos showing how to replace the screen did not make clear how to remove the motherboard from the phone without damaging the ribbon.
Anyway I will see if anyone can glue the the new ribbon to the motherboard for me but will only pay around £10. Some of the folks I emailed want £20 to just to diagnose the issue which was already clearly stated to them. Therefore it looks like this may not happen.
Otyerwise I will wait for a broken Ultra to sell on ebay for around £10.
Love this phone for its size but have the Z3 and Z3 tablet as my two daily phones to keep me going till the Z5 premium.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is possible to reuse the adhesive if the adhesive on the connectors are not lifted or removed.