Related
Hey all,
I recently had an accident with my 32GB Touchpad I managed to recover from, so I thought I'd share the story for the benefit of anyone else who encounters the same issue. That said, if you do have this problem, proceed at your own risk. I am not advising you to do anything I did below, rather I am sharing my own experience.
Basically it got dropped around 6-8 feet down a carpeted stairwell. It appeared to land on the side edge with the volume button. To my surprise, the screen wasn't cracked and the buttons responded, but it wouldn't respond to touch.
First, I know this isn't covered by the warranty. [SOAPBOX] Of course, one could just lie to tech support and possibly get it covered, but that isn't how I roll. I've gotten by well in life by being straight with tech support but not taking any bs, not gonna change now.[/SOAPBOX] So, I did a live chat with tech support just to see what it would cost. Short answer, $238 for a tablet I paid $150 for. So no, I decided that if I couldn't fix it myself I'd part it out to others with broken displays etc, or give it to a dev. If I got any money for it, I'd buy an actual android pad.
Once again, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK! I take no responsibility if you damage or brick your device.
Past experience told me that most likely a connector inside was the culprit. I search the forums and interwebs for dissembly instructions. I couldn't find any good ones, but managed to figure it out from the following two links;
http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/Countries/_MultiCountry/disassembly_handhe_2011617223529.pdf
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/cracking-open-the-hp-touchpad/6253940?seq=8&tag=thumbnail-view-selector;get-photo-roto
If anyone knows a good dissasembly tutorial i missed on youtube or elsewhere, please post it. Anyway, I found the ribbon cables from the panel were indeed partially pulled from their connectors (see attached ribbon 1.jpg). Flipping up the black covers (see attached ribbon 2.jpg) I was able to reposition it and flipped the covers back down.
After a bit of trouble reassembling it (due to my being rough with the side catches around the bezel), my Touchpad is back to its former self, not counting a few scuffs in the plastic around the bezel from by hamfisted work. I'm happy, and my wife is happy I'm not eyeing the Touchpad I just gave her for her birthday . I hope someone benefits from this post, as I've benefited from others' posts here. Just trying to give back.
interesting read. Knowing what you know now, how long would think the whole process would take?
a40dayflud818 said:
interesting read. Knowing what you know now, how long would think the whole process would take?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No more than 15 minutes. Of course, I'd try to find a better tool like the one pictured in the linked PDF in my post above. Just gotta be sure the catches around the bezel are free so as not to pull up them up as you lift the lcd panel. They're actually separate pieces of plastic, not part of the bottom mold. One had slide out from under one of the PCBs. I had to remove a few screws to lift said PCB to reposition the catch, otherwise the panel wouldn't snap back in fully.
Nomedias said:
If anyone knows a good dissasembly tutorial i missed on youtube or elsewhere, please post it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a video, but the steps for various replacements are quite well explained here : http://www.ifixit.com/Device/HP_TouchPad
Sine. said:
It's not a video, but the steps for various replacements are quite well explained here : http://www.ifixit.com/Device/HP_TouchPad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I definitely give the thumbs up with that tutorial. Very good. A pocket knife blade was my tool of choice to take the cover off!
Thanks for the tutorial.
Sorry to revive the old thread. However, my touchpad is not responding to touch, everything else is functional (it boots perfect and able to update using JC toolbox to latest 4.4.4).
I tried to plug unplug the video connector few times (after disassembling) but still it does not respond to touch. Any suggestion will be highly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Mac
Do you still have WebOS or a touch enabled recovery installed? That could help determine if the problem is more likely hardware or software. If it is hardware you have already done what I could do.
Sent from my SM-T900 using XDA Premium HD app
Nomedias said:
Do you still have WebOS or a touch enabled recovery installed? That could help determine if the problem is more likely hardware or software. If it is hardware you have already done what I could do.
Sent from my SM-T900 using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have completely wiped the system and removed the WebOS by using JC toolbox. However, I do have touch recovery and while booting in recovery also have problem for touch(does not respond to touch, can select using volume up/down and home button). Does it mean touch screen is now defective? Can it be replaced and is it worth try? Appreciate your input.
Thanks
macwindows said:
I have completely wiped the system and removed the WebOS by using JC toolbox. However, I do have touch recovery and while booting in recovery also have problem for touch(does not respond to touch, can select using volume up/down and home button). Does it mean touch screen is now defective? Can it be replaced and is it worth try? Appreciate your input.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would agree it sounds like either the digitizer or control board may be bad. I don't know enough to say more though. As for if it is worth it, do a search on eBay. Used Touchpads sell for under $100. New for around twice that. Nonfunctional units sell for under $50. Maybe you get lucky and can buy one with a working digitizer. If it were me, I would buy a functioning used Touchpad and sell the bad one. Or keep it for spare parts. With current more powerful 10" tablets selling new for $300-500, I'd be careful not to put too much into it.
Good luck!
Sent from my SM-T900 using XDA Premium HD app
I couldn'd find any "more powerful" tablets with 32GB ram and wireless charging. Do you know some? I bought a used touchpad then.
ranjib said:
I couldn'd find any "more powerful" tablets with 32GB ram and wireless charging. Do you know some? I bought a used touchpad then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You got me on wireless charging. ☺ Not counting that I was thinking of a Nexus 9 or 10, or a Galaxy Tab. A Galaxy Tab Pro 10.1" 16GB goes for $320. It has a microSD slot and an Exynos 5 Octa CPU.
Sent from my SM-T900 using XDA Premium HD app
Well if my son continues to beat my TP up the way he does, I will definitely look at this method for the first step to solving possible touchscreen issues haha, thanks
Nomedias said:
Hey all,
I recently had an accident with my 32GB Touchpad I managed to recover from, so I thought I'd share the story for the benefit of anyone else who encounters the same issue. That said, if you do have this problem, proceed at your own risk. I am not advising you to do anything I did below, rather I am sharing my own experience.
Basically it got dropped around 6-8 feet down a carpeted stairwell. It appeared to land on the side edge with the volume button. To my surprise, the screen wasn't cracked and the buttons responded, but it wouldn't respond to touch.
First, I know this isn't covered by the warranty. [SOAPBOX] Of course, one could just lie to tech support and possibly get it covered, but that isn't how I roll. I've gotten by well in life by being straight with tech support but not taking any bs, not gonna change now.[/SOAPBOX] So, I did a live chat with tech support just to see what it would cost. Short answer, $238 for a tablet I paid $150 for. So no, I decided that if I couldn't fix it myself I'd part it out to others with broken displays etc, or give it to a dev. If I got any money for it, I'd buy an actual android pad.
Once again, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK! I take no responsibility if you damage or brick your device.
Past experience told me that most likely a connector inside was the culprit. I search the forums and interwebs for dissembly instructions. I couldn't find any good ones, but managed to figure it out from the following two links;
[Removed Links... Noobie here]
If anyone knows a good dissasembly tutorial i missed on youtube or elsewhere, please post it. Anyway, I found the ribbon cables from the panel were indeed partially pulled from their connectors (see attached ribbon 1.jpg). Flipping up the black covers (see attached ribbon 2.jpg) I was able to reposition it and flipped the covers back down.
After a bit of trouble reassembling it (due to my being rough with the side catches around the bezel), my Touchpad is back to its former self, not counting a few scuffs in the plastic around the bezel from by hamfisted work. I'm happy, and my wife is happy I'm not eyeing the Touchpad I just gave her for her birthday . I hope someone benefits from this post, as I've benefited from others' posts here. Just trying to give back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, I've been spending the better part of an hour scouring over the Anandtech teardown gallery of the prime trying to get a decent understanding of the GPS/WiFi antennas and the underlying design flaws which contribute to these features messing up; namely the giant metal shield of a cover and the placement of the antennas. They're not exactly in a bad place, but I guess Asus assumed that if you were using WiFi/GPS with your tablet then you would always do so with the screen facing the AP/satellites. In reality, mine at least, it's the back of the device generally pointing to these things. Maybe I place my network hubs in strange places and enjoy astronomy apps too much?
Now on to the actual question, especially to any of you who have gotten the device and been brave enough to peek inside it yourself; would creating my own plastic windows/metal grates within the aluminum backing actually help anything? Do these antennas broadcast a 360 degree signal or are they directional? The motherboard itself would allow decent signal to get to the transmitter wouldn't it, so long as the case does?
My order isn't set to ship for another month, but I think I'll be getting this tablet regardless of the known issues, though the audio/video problems with the miniHDMI port make me a bit nervous. This thing will still be a power-house even as better spec'd tablets come out, just like my single-core Desire Z is still pretty relevant and decent. Just not top-of-the-line, and it wasn't for any real amount of time, but that's just how these things go.
Ideally, the antenna would couple to the whole backplate, making a big slot antenna (but then it starts to risk being too directional). It's just as probably that the issue is noise or feeble pogo-pin connectors.
If you do make a cut-out, it needs to be about 1 wavelength larger than the outline of the antenna (and you risk de-tuning the antenna if it was designed to operate in close proximity to a groundplane)
tshoulihane said:
Ideally, the antenna would couple to the whole backplate, making a big slot antenna (but then it starts to risk being too directional). It's just as probably that the issue is noise or feeble pogo-pin connectors.
If you do make a cut-out, it needs to be about 1 wavelength larger than the outline of the antenna (and you risk de-tuning the antenna if it was designed to operate in close proximity to a groundplane)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Coupling to the backplate, though increasing power decreases accuracy doesn't it?
I hadn't thought of the pogo-pins as a possible culprit, that's certainly possible.
Couldn't I make a couple windows and retro-fit either some plastic or plexi-glass into the design? Would that help keep from de-tuning, especially if kept to a small size with accurate positioning?
Thank you for the response, I know nothing of the finer details on GPS and other wireless signals.
*Edit: After re-reading and thinking, I actually understand what you're saying. Plastic or no, any cutout would need to be a very specific size larger than the antenna itself which would take more than I would be able to do I'm sure. Oh well, I know I'll still love this thing, so long as the miniHDMI works properly, I'll be happy. Phone's GPS works like a dream.
And now I apologize. I found it odd not finding topics on this, but now I've found them and have a bit more of an understanding on the matter. Namely that the cpu seems to have a strong possibility of creating interference for the chip. The casing apparently just worsens the issue.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
buxtahuda said:
And now I apologize. I found it odd not finding topics on this, but now I've found them and have a bit more of an understanding on the matter. Namely that the cpu seems to have a strong possibility of creating interference for the chip. The casing apparently just worsens the issue.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How sure are we about this? I've read that Apple puts their WiFi antenna behind the black plastic logo on their WiFi-only models for exactly this reason. Not only that, but on the 3g models they simply have all the wireless modules placed on top of the device where they are covered with black plastic as well.
It seems to me that a stupid plastic apple cutout - a complex geometric shape - is not likely capable of being as "tuned" as a rectangular cutout. Yet, I think it's safe to say that the 3G and WiFi versions of the iPad have similar if not identical WiFi performance. That is to say, I don't think manufactures are using the aluminum back for anything other than looking pretty. I think it's safe to hack away at.
Thoughts?
JazzMac251 said:
I don't think manufactures are using the aluminum back for anything other than looking pretty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe for some heat dispersion too?
I wish they would start selling the back plate only (like they do with ipods etc)
That way i'm sure someone could cutout a shape and try the antenna behind a plastic window etc, but youd always have the option to put the original back.
I wouldnt mind modding mine after the garantee has ran out.
I think Asus might consider making an after-market backplate that they would fit to your Prime after they have fully tested the issues.
Docaroo said:
I think Asus might consider making an after-market backplate that they would fit to your Prime after they have fully tested the issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been thinking that even if Asus didn't some third party will. And I'm willing to get to cutting the day it arrives if I can determine it'll help. However, I don't want just an open grate for dust and junk to get into. Maybe just a thin fabric filter, or should I close it up with some plastic/plexiglass and epoxy?
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
buxtahuda said:
I've been thinking that even if Asus didn't some third party will. And I'm willing to get to cutting the day it arrives if I can determine it'll help. However, I don't want just an open grate for dust and junk to get into. Maybe just a thin fabric filter, or should I close it up with some plastic/plexiglass and epoxy?
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't see why plastic wouldn't work. It's what the iPad has and it seems to work out in that case.
You should consider cross-posting this in the "General" forum. It is a "question", but the General forum gets a LOT more eyeballs.
JazzMac251 said:
I don't see why plastic wouldn't work. It's what the iPad has and it seems to work out in that case.
You should consider cross-posting this in the "General" forum. It is a "question", but the General forum gets a LOT more eyeballs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i agree, this post should be on general... this would be a great solution, a homemade plastic ipad-like hole... we need it, and if third party doesnt do this, we will have to do it...
well, but anyone tested the device without the case to see the real power of the wifi-gps-bt ?
Yakandu said:
i agree, this post should be on general... this would be a great solution, a homemade plastic ipad-like hole... we need it, and if third party doesnt do this, we will have to do it...
well, but anyone tested the device without the case to see the real power of the wifi-gps-bt ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will be, but it's still a good two-four weeks before I have mine. All mentions of it I've seen in general never get answered, I haven't seen anyone comment on whether or not they've tried without the backing. Probably because most aren't willing to try and heat up the glue to do so or damage the thing in the process...
Some expertise required
Does the aluminium back plate attenuate both wifi and gps signals? From what I have read it seems to be confirmed that this is the situation, although other factors such as internal interference have NOT been discounted, nor has the connection method (gold pogo pin) between motherboard and the antennae (blackened out pcb strip). I have noted on the TF101 Transformer teardown, a very similar placement of both WIFI and GPS antennae to that on the TF201 Transformer Prime - near the top edge and adjacent each other. Looking at similarities between models, an obvious and perhaps too simple explination would be the aluminium back plate. There does seem to be some interest in experimenting with making some holes (similar to the speaker grill), on the back plate in front of the antennae in the hope that it MAY improve reception. I have read numerous posts and was hoping that someone may have tried this. I don't want to hear about the merits of having or not having a GPS and how it matters to them personaly etc - lets focus people, but whether someone has had the ability and knowledge to try it. I am unsure given the wavelength of both GPS and WIFI (1.2 / 1.5 Ghz) whether mutliple small holes would do it. I feel that a transparent plastic window may be required. I do not believe the back plate is used a coupled ground plate etc. and it is used purely as the chasis. Come on - there has to be some smart engineering graduates/professionals who are willing to give this a go...it would have been nice if they were paid by ASUS but that seems unlikely. Point to note - that the GPS and WIFI antennas (there are two for the WIFI on the TF201) would be obtaining some reception through the front gorilla glass and plastic (on which the antennae are mounted). My question is - what and IF modifications are necessary to the back plate to obtain better reception. Any ideas?
I have not seen a single test where anyone proved it was the back plate. Anyone have a link to a test that shows the prime navigating successfully without the back plate?
I just bought the Nook Tablet brand new at Barnes and Noble. Been playing with it a little and like it but noticed something. On the left side and top left of the silver frame there seems to be a small gap - tiny but noticable. You can push down on it and in the dark you can see the light from the LCD coming out of it. So my question is does anyone else have this? Should I be worried or not? I just got it so I'd hate to have to get a replacememt already. Hoping my luck isnt that bad. Thanks for any answers.
Well the front piece of the casing is definitely put on last and in a way it's looser than the rest of the casing, but mine definitely doesn't have said gap wide enough for light to get through. I'd get the device replaced if I were you - if some dust got in there it could seriously mess things up or scratch the LCD.
I think that's actually the microphone. I also have a small little notch that lets in light, though it's more on the right side. There was a similar question asked on the B&N Community forum IIRC.
Sent from my BNTV250 using Tapatalk
lfeuln said:
I think that's actually the microphone. I also have a small little notch that lets in light, though it's more on the right side. There was a similar question asked on the B&N Community forum IIRC.
Sent from my BNTV250 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the tiny hole close to the headphone jack is indeed the microphone, but from what he's saying it sounds like there's a gap between the faceplate and the main casing. If that's not the issue, though, then you're absolutely right and he has nothing to worry about.
Here's another consideration though; go into an electronics store that carries Nook Tablets and see if their model is identical to yours; if so, then obviously yours is the same as anyone else's.
The micro is more to the right like the 3.5mm jack not the left as he mention.m so maybe that is not it.
~ Veronica
Sent from XDA premium using my Nook Tablet
lfeuln said:
I think that's actually the microphone. I also have a small little notch that lets in light, though it's more on the right side. There was a similar question asked on the B&N Community forum IIRC.
Sent from my BNTV250 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mike_IronFist said:
Yes, the tiny hole close to the headphone jack is indeed the microphone, but from what he's saying it sounds like there's a gap between the faceplate and the main casing. If that's not the issue, though, then you're absolutely right and he has nothing to worry about.
Here's another consideration though; go into an electronics store that carries Nook Tablets and see if their model is identical to yours; if so, then obviously yours is the same as anyone else's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong - as I and Verinoca stated - I said it was on the left side of the device, where the mic is nowhere located. Also I think I'd know the difference between a small hole and a gap
But as Mike has said - I think that's the issue. It seems the silver frame is loose and not properly placed onto the main casing so you see little gaps and the biggest gap you can see the light from the LCD. So I'm worried that it eventually comes off or dust gets in - either which is very bad.
Called the Barnes and Noble store I bought it from and having it checked out. Hopefully I get a new replacement since I just bought the damn thing yesterday :/ but thanks for all the answers and help.
-Alex
Mike_IronFist said:
Well the front piece of the casing is definitely put on last and in a way it's looser than the rest of the casing, but mine definitely doesn't have said gap wide enough for light to get through. I'd get the device replaced if I were you - if some dust got in there it could seriously mess things up or scratch the LCD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So just replace one as you said or you must use it carefull.
I have a very specific question with regards to replacing the charging port on the i777. I have searched threads discussing charging port replacement, but was unable to find anything about this specific issue. I am currently going through my first repair on my i777 that needs a new charging port. I bought the replacement on ebay, but something stood out once I compared it to the original charging port I took out. On the original there is a small rubber piece hanging down (around where the screw holes are). On the replacement piece it's just a metal piece hanging down in the same place. Do I need to have that rubber piece on the replacement charging port? Would it even affect the functionality of the phone? Is there a way to take the rubber piece off the original and transfer it to the replacement, or should I just buy one with the rubber piece on? If someone has asked this question already forgive me, but I did not see it in the thread I skimmed through.
Here is a pic of both them side by side. The top one is the original and the bottom is the replacement I got from ebay.
farm8.staticflickr (.com) /7281/9735538853_4e701482f8_o (.jpg)
It would not let me post link yet so just remove parentesis and spaces to view picture link.
That gray part is for waterproofing the microphone I believe. It just slides off of the old part and onto the new one, just be careful. Also if you have no signal, by now you may have already found the following thread. I had to do this a couple of weeks ago to get a signal: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1950114&page=5 I'll try harder to match up the part numbers next time!
iXNyNe, please let us know if the newegg part works, or if you end up needing to modify it (see link in above post), or purchase another.
iXNyNe said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2C51D87922 just ordered this. [...]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cyril279 said:
iXNyNe, please let us know if the newegg part works, or if you end up needing to modify it (see link in above post), or purchase another.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'll report back once i have them
i already took the phone apart just to peek around inside, the part looks just like what's already there. the picture shows some teal/aqua colored tabs towards the bottom, im assuming these are peel off for an adhesive (there did seem to be an adhesive holding the part in place).
based on that link mentioned i would say that cutting is a little extreme, it looks like they cut the board in half, which is definitely NOT how it comes stock.
again i'll report back once i've got the chips. and for under $8 with free shipping i cant really complain even if they dont work out.
The only thing you're actually cutting (electronically) is the ground plane of the board shared by the antenna/radio and the charge port. In short, there's a super low risk of messing anything up, unless you use a sawzall to complete the job.
I assume that it was more cost effective for Samsung to put those items on the same board, but it's a punk move to attach a known replacement part to an antenna that varies by region. Either way, I'm glad to know that the hack is an option but I'd be happier to know that the hack isn't necessary.
iXNyNe said:
i'll report back once i have them
i already took the phone apart just to peek around inside, the part looks just like what's already there. the picture shows some teal/aqua colored tabs towards the bottom, im assuming these are peel off for an adhesive (there did seem to be an adhesive holding the part in place).
based on that link mentioned i would say that cutting is a little extreme, it looks like they cut the board in half, which is definitely NOT how it comes stock.
again i'll report back once i've got the chips. and for under $8 with free shipping i cant really complain even if they dont work out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just wanted to report success. The part from new egg worked and was really easy to swap.
I don't have the right size sim card anymore since switching my primary carry, so I can't test reception, but otherwise everything is working (charging, wifi, Bluetooth, etc)
P.s. I did not modify the item I received (no cutting) and it is a 2.3 where the original I removed was a 2.2. I've saved the 2.2 just in case something comes up.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Thanks, but I'm afraid that we won't know whether the replacement part is a proper replacement until there is a sim-card involved. Reception is the rub (see post below from the board-mod thread).
underhuggare said:
[...]I also replaced the original rev 2.2 with rev 2.3 which fixed the usb port but gave me very unstable and poor reception. [...]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
iXNyNe said:
Just wanted to report success. The part from new egg worked and was really easy to swap.
I don't have the right size sim card anymore since switching my primary carry, so I can't test reception, but otherwise everything is working (charging, wifi, Bluetooth, etc)
P.s. I did not modify the item I received (no cutting) and it is a 2.3 where the original I removed was a 2.2. I've saved the 2.2 just in case something comes up.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cyril279 said:
Thanks, but I'm afraid that we won't know whether the replacement part is a proper replacement until there is a sim-card involved. Reception is the rub (see post below from the board-mod thread).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll see if I can find a friend with a full size Sim over the next few days and test the reliability. But honestly I'd have to it may be better for people to find a rev 2.2
But for anyone who no longer uses the phone for cell service, the new egg part works great for a cheap and easy charge port replacement.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Anyone using any lenses, like wide angle, fisheye, macro, etc. on their Nexus 6? If so, can you share any information and pics/videos of your set up? I was thinking about investing, but not sure if I should go with the clip or if I should go with a magnet one (also not sure if there is a magnet built in around the camera ala the Nexus 5).
I am a total noob when it comes to this stuff so any help would be awesome. Also, apologies if there is another thread on this topic, but I did not have any luck finding one.
dp92180 said:
Anyone using any lenses, like wide angle, fisheye, macro, etc. on their Nexus 6? If so, can you share any information and pics/videos of your set up? I was thinking about investing, but not sure if I should go with the clip or if I should go with a magnet one (also not sure if there is a magnet built in around the camera ala the Nexus 5).
I am a total noob when it comes to this stuff so any help would be awesome. Also, apologies if there is another thread on this topic, but I did not have any luck finding one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if you're aware of this, but there was no magnet built around the Nexus 5's camera. Yes, people were able to mount the magnetic camera lenses to the N5's camera directly, but the only thing it would have been attaching itself to would have been the mechanisms for image stabilization, basically making that useless with the lens on, and also the small possibility of causing some sort of damage to the system in some way down the line.
elementaldragon said:
Not sure if you're aware of this, but there was no magnet built around the Nexus 5's camera. Yes, people were able to mount the magnetic camera lenses to the N5's camera directly, but the only thing it would have been attaching itself to would have been the mechanisms for image stabilization, basically making that useless with the lens on, and also the small possibility of causing some sort of damage to the system in some way down the line.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will second this. Do not put something magnetic near your camera. You will break your ois.
http://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Fisheye-VicTsing%C2%AE-Blackberry-Motorola/dp/B00TF8FJ04/ref=pd_sim_107_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=15BCV4B86BQF8DJDNSWP
I just bought these. Reviews seem to be pretty good, and they're only 15 bucks.
v8dreaming said:
I just bought these. Reviews seem to be pretty good, and they're only 15 bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did these work out for you? Fit okay?
thebigh said:
How did these work out for you? Fit okay?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They fit ok. You can't have a case on the phone, though. They also have to be used from the top, instead of from the side.
Does it cover up the flash ring?
thebigh said:
Does it cover up the flash ring?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty much. It has to, to not interfere with the actual camera.
Ah well... I don't know the last time I used a phone flash anyway. ?
I got some for my old iphone 5s and it fits the Nexus 6 fine, fits in the black ring on the camera so flash is fine. Only few £$ on ebay.