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Hi everybody,
Since the TP2 is using a whole lot more power than my old HTC Universal, I am looking for a decent Solar charging solution for on my bike.
TomTomnavigator + GPS use more than 500mA (I mean when I put in a car charger of this type hte phone says "insufficient current to blablabl")
I surfed the net, but decent info is hard to find about this specific problem. I mean I want to plug my phone in the solar charger and KNOW that it will give sufficient powersupply to charge the battery (or at least keep it at the same level)
Anybody an idea or maybe a link to a DECENT site (with CORRECT technical info)? Commercial sites with the best product ever, i have seen enough until you test it!
thanx to all!
Kjoere
I have one of these that I got on Amazon for 80 bucks and I love this thing! It also acts as a spare battery, and you can adjust the voltage. I brought it with me when I went camping. It's definitely worth it.
http://www.icetechusa.com/catalogue-solar-167464-spec.html
I've tried several of the cheap Chinese solar chargers and also a Solio, and they are all crap
Solar charger need direct sunlight. If cloudy, they can take a few days (daylight days not 24hr days!) to charge. So unless you live on the African Savanah where it will charge in 7 hours, then you will have a long wait.
I put my Solio on my window cill in January this year, and by the midle of February it got a full charge. I kid you not
You are probably much better off with a external power pack that uses 1 or 2 standard AA batteries or a minimum 2000mAh lithium battery
This solar 'card' from Swiss batteries looks interesting.
A 1mm thick bendable, weather-proof card of more efficient modern solar cell technology, with a claimed [up to] 40% greater efficiency than other cells. A portable battery option (as with the power monkey ) is also available.
And check out the solar bags on their site too!
PaulusUK said:
You are probably much better off with a external power pack that uses 1 or 2 standard AA batteries or a minimum 2000mAh lithium battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where might I get an external power pack with more than one AA battery? I can only find 1xAA packs, and I can't imagine a little old alkaline AA could produce NEARLY enough current at 5v to charge our beefy phones. Not for any amount of time, anyway, and not without heating up to what I would consider dangerous levels...
godefroi said:
Where might I get an external power pack with more than one AA battery? I can only find 1xAA packs, and I can't imagine a little old alkaline AA could produce NEARLY enough current at 5v to charge our beefy phones. Not for any amount of time, anyway, and not without heating up to what I would consider dangerous levels...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm afraid too that alcaline AA's won't do the job pretty well, although rechargeable NiMh could be worth a try
For outdoor-recharge, I'm using this general USB-charger featuring a rechargeable 2200 mAh 18650 LiOn battery:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18883
It has the advantage that you can change the 18650 easily, thus enabling you to take several ones with you for long voyages
MeCry
godefroi said:
Where might I get an external power pack with more than one AA battery? I can only find 1xAA packs, and I can't imagine a little old alkaline AA could produce NEARLY enough current at 5v to charge our beefy phones. Not for any amount of time, anyway, and not without heating up to what I would consider dangerous levels...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the best on I have found
Its a massive 3400mAh with a 5v 700ma output so will charge most phones and other gadgets no problem. It is just a bit smaller than the TP2 so is easy to carry around in a pocket
I got mine off ebay for less money - same unit but a different manufacturer. AFAIK, these are commonly rebranded, but look for the shape and the 3400 mah spec.
Most of the other Chinese ones from places like Dealextreme are lower capacity
I was really hoping for something using standard AA (maybe NiMH, 4 of those would be 4.8V).
In fact, 2xAA NiMH should be able to deliver the sort of current we're talking about here, right?
And, sure enough, Here is someone that's built exactly what I want. Who wants to assemble me one?
One product springs to mind: The powermonkey-eXplorer
https://powertraveller.com/iwantsome/primatepower/powermonkey-explorer/
thanx roger
I got an Energizer 2xAA charger, and it works on my TP2 absolutely fine. You need to use good quality batteries in it, but it's fairly compact and keeps the battery topped up while I'm out using the GPS with no car nearby!!!
http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl...a=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4
gringolian said:
I got an Energizer 2xAA charger, and it works on my TP2 absolutely fine. You need to use good quality batteries in it, but it's fairly compact and keeps the battery topped up while I'm out using the GPS with no car nearby!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Energizer says it needs Lithium batteries (which I think are 1.7v), have you tried with NiMH perhaps (which are 1.2v)? I'd think it'd figure the batteries were empty even when they were newly charged.
godefroi said:
Energizer says it needs Lithium batteries (which I think are 1.7v), have you tried with NiMH perhaps (which are 1.2v)? I'd think it'd figure the batteries were empty even when they were newly charged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got standard Duracell 1.5V alkaline batteries in it right now, and it charges it just fine! I think energizer say that to make you buy their ridiculously expensive lithium batteries!!
Hey
As a possible solution to the low battery life of the G1, I bought a solar panel charger. (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=229254) To test it, I went and sat in the sun for a while, with a multimeter. When charging an old Nokia, which has a 3.7v battery, the Nokia's battery was drawing about 200mA. Not a lot, but enough to extend the life of the battery if you're out on a walk.
However, when I plugged the solar panel into the G1 (also a 3.7v battery), it only drew 10-20mA. Now, presumably this is due to some sort of charging circuit in the G1. I know some battery chargers have a diode in to prevent back-flow, and they can have a hefty voltage drop on them. Perhaps the G1 has something similar.
My solution to this would be to have a separate connector that will fit between the G1s battery and the phone to supply current directly to the phone/battery. If the phone is using less current than the solar panel provides, presumably the battery will then charge. Otherwise, the phone will run off the solar panel & battery combined, meaning the battery will last longer. I'd not use the panel when the battery is full, so it wouldn't overcharge, and I would put a 10 ohm resistor in to make sure the charging current is fairly low.
Forgetting about the difficulty of creating the connections, does anyone know anything about the manner in which the G1 handles charging that might be damaged by what I'm proposing?
Why do you post in Development section? Becareful when you created new thread in a sub forum!
Thread Move to Dream accessories.
The battery is irrelevant, it's what the charging-circuitry takes as input that matters. (And, regular lithium-cells usually run at 3.7v, so there's no need to check that (Unless it's some special phosphate-based cell, or something fancy))
The G1 takes 5v.
If i recall correctly, Android handles the power-consumption of the charging circuitry when booted. I think it could be regulated from debugfs... But this is dangerous.
(imfloflo: If the above is true, this is indeed Android development...)
For the battery to charge, you need to supply a higher voltage, and i don't know the limits of the voltage-regulation in the device. This could potentially overload it, rendering the device useless (Unless you have the ability to solder smd components, and the regulator is not part of the SoC).
Also, DO NOT try to charge a lithium-based battery without the charging circuitry, you will end up overcharging/overheating it, and that's NOT something you want to happen (If you don't cool it fast enough after this has happened, it will explode, taking the phone, and whatever else is near (Your hand for example) with it.).
Joushou said:
DO NOT try to charge a lithium-based battery without the charging circuitry, you will end up overcharging/overheating it, and that's NOT something you want to happen (If you don't cool it fast enough after this has happened, it will explode, taking the phone, and whatever else is near (Your hand for example) with it.).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most Li-Ion batteries have a small control circuit built in.. So unless you take the battery apart and try to charge the individual cells, that shouldn't be a problem.
After I broke the usb socket on my wizard, I used to charge the battery with a plain usb cable chopped down the middle with the wires taped onto the battery terminals.. never blew my hand off once.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any damaged or destroyed limbs resulting from attempting idiotic things like this.
goldenarmZ said:
Most Li-Ion batteries have a small control circuit built in.. So unless you take the battery apart and try to charge the individual cells, that shouldn't be a problem.
After I broke the usb socket on my wizard, I used to charge the battery with a plain usb cable chopped down the middle with the wires taped onto the battery terminals.. never blew my hand off once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, as dubious as those "clip" usb chargers are, I have not heard of anyone's Li-Ion or Li-Po cellphone battery violently venting as a result of charging past 4.1v. Generally with lithium-based cells, if they have been packaged into a battery then there is probably a basic protection circuit against overvolt, undervolt and shorts.
That said, I would still recommend charging through the mini-usb rather than trying to jury rig together some kind of interface to go between the battery and the contacts.
jashsu said:
Yeah, as dubious as those "clip" usb chargers are, I have not heard of anyone's Li-Ion or Li-Po cellphone battery violently venting as a result of charging past 4.1v. Generally with lithium-based cells, if they have been packaged into a battery then there is probably a basic protection circuit against overvolt, undervolt and shorts.
That said, I would still recommend charging through the mini-usb rather than trying to jury rig together some kind of interface to go between the battery and the contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there's usually protection circuitry built-in, but i'm not going to tell someone i don't know, and therefore don't trust the persons knowledge, to put these circuits to the test...
I've been charging Lithium Ion (Both organic solvent and solid polymer) from my lab-supply several times, without blowing them up, but i have seen what happens when it goes wrong (And it's much scarier to see it in real life, than watch the videos...), and therefore i won't tell someone i don't fully trust to charge a cell without a charger.
Hi,
I plan to disappear into the woods and come back out when I've finished my thesis (more or less). So I'm interested in buying a solar panel to use with my transformer and since people here seem pretty knowledgeable about charging the transformer I thought I would run it by you guys to make sure I do not miss something important.
I've gathered so far that I will need at least an 11v panel.
Also, it seems I need USB 3.0 to charge by USB. Is this correct?
And if I can't get USB 3.0 I will have to modify a 2.0 wire or plug or whatever... I prefer to avoid this
What should I go for in terms og Watts?
Would it be reccommendable to buy a panel with a battery to get a more even current?
Recommandations would be great!
Wow, I thought I was the only one that even remotely cared about this!
I have a Goal0 Nomad 7m. It's 12v, and I have had no luck getting it to charge my TF. Do you think it might be because of the USB 3.0 requirement?
Great that I'm not alone! Too bad that it doesn't work though...
I got the thing about USB 3.0 from this thread;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321
reading it again I noticed this line;
"The Asus charger does need a 3.0 cable extension to work. But with a DIY charger you don't need USB 3.0 cables or connectors."​
So I'm not really sure if it makes a difference whether you use USB 2.0 or 3.0.
Anyway the specs for your Nomad says that it's 5v for USB output and 12v for DC output so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't work with the transformer.
Miki T. said:
Great that I'm not alone! Too bad that it doesn't work though...
I got the thing about USB 3.0 from this thread;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321
reading it again I noticed this line;
"The Asus charger does need a 3.0 cable extension to work. But with a DIY charger you don't need USB 3.0 cables or connectors."​
So I'm not really sure if it makes a difference whether you use USB 2.0 or 3.0.
Anyway the specs for your Nomad says that it's 5v for USB output and 12v for DC output so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't work with the transformer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right!...that actually means there's options. Shouldn't something like this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inve...=UTF8&coliid=IUJZFD56YRM5K&colid=HQA2VAAM7MXY
I think I'm gonna have to order this, and give it a shot. I already have the panel & the DC jack, so I might as well.
Hey nice find! It seems like it should work, though don't take my word for it. I'm really ignorant of this stuff which is why I started the thread to begin with In any case $22 for a charger sounds fairly cheap.
Let me know if it works or not!
Solar panels that put out more than 28W (5V, 2A = 10W + 15V, 1.2A = 18W) would be enough, but then you'd likely want to run it through an inverter to get 110v AC, then the ASUS charger.
Until and unless ASUS comes out with a car charger that would work with the dock, running an inverter to generate an AC signal, then running it through the AC adapter will be the way to go.
Figuring in efficiency losses, you'll probably want 50-75W worth of solar panels for this to work. You can also use a 12v battery as a ballast.
FrayAdjacent said:
Solar panels that put out more than 28W (5V, 2A = 10W + 15V, 1.2A = 18W) would be enough, but then you'd likely want to run it through an inverter to get 110v AC, then the ASUS charger.
Until and unless ASUS comes out with a car charger that would work with the dock, running an inverter to generate an AC signal, then running it through the AC adapter will be the way to go.
Figuring in efficiency losses, you'll probably want 50-75W worth of solar panels for this to work. You can also use a 12v battery as a ballast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need 5V and 12V, only 12V. The Asus charger only puts out 5V for non-transformer devices. Don't introduce all the loss from the 110V converter, just charge a 12V battery with a panel(the Asus will draw 18 watts at full charge), then charge the transformer from the battery. Just get a usb extender, cut it, and hook negative to pin 4 and positive to pin 1. I would recommend a 5 Ohm resistor to limit amperage, but it isn't necessary.
I'd like to hear how it works out.
I was considering putting some flexible solar panels on the back of the transformer. But with the dock, I've got more than enough power for my needs. Plus, the back of the transformer won't get that much sunlight.
I'm now moving on to trying to put solar panels on the back of my cellphone (Huawei U8800). It's a great phone, and the battery lasts all day, so long as I don't play too many games.
One thing you might want to consider is an external battery pack. They are pretty cheap here in China, and have huge batteries in them. They even have some with built in solar panels. I'm sure you could find one that could recharge the Transformer. Then you could have the battery pack in the sun charging via the solar panel, and you sitting in the shade with the transformer. At night plug the battery up to the transformer to let it charge while you sleep. The transformer with dock should have more than enough battery life to last all day.
If I come across any useful information during my research, I'll let you know.
Miki T. said:
Hey nice find! It seems like it should work, though don't take my word for it. I'm really ignorant of this stuff which is why I started the thread to begin with In any case $22 for a charger sounds fairly cheap.
Let me know if it works or not!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it! ...and it will be here this afternoon. Thanks to Amazon Prime local delivery .
I'll let you know how/if it works out.
philburkhardt said:
I bought it! ...and it will be here this afternoon. Thanks to Amazon Prime local delivery .
I'll let you know how/if it works out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stuff like that is great for the car, but you're gonna lose SO much efficiency through it, then even more loss from the Asus charger plugged into it. A 15W solar panel should be enough to charge the TF directly. Using an inverter with the asus charger, you'll probably need 50-100W. Just FYI.
msticninja said:
Stuff like that is great for the car, but you're gonna lose SO much efficiency through it, then even more loss from the Asus charger plugged into it. A 15W solar panel should be enough to charge the TF directly. Using an inverter with the asus charger, you'll probably need 50-100W. Just FYI.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, you're right. No go on charging the TF. Like you said, it will be great for charging things in the car. Just not off my 12W solar panel. I think I'm gonna have to upgrade my panel .
philburkhardt said:
Yup, you're right. No go on charging the TF. Like you said, it will be great for charging things in the car. Just not off my 12W solar panel. I think I'm gonna have to upgrade my panel .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The real joy of the TF is that it charges directly from 12 volts, so, assuming you have a 12 volt 12W panel, you should go get a 12 volt battery, 4AH(amp-hour) at least. It will be about the size of an old 6 volt lantern battery. Hook the panel to the battery to charge the battery, hook a female usb port to the battery, and hook the TF directly to the female usb port. You'll probably be able to get through a whole night on a 4AH battery + the TFs battery.
Great! Lots of useful replies... thanks a lot!
I plan on not using the adapter and use a USB extender the way msticninja wrote, since I don't want to carry or pay for something that delivers 50-100W.
I think I've found the panel I am going to buy. I cannot include outside links until I've posted 8 messages, but you can easily find it by googling "Portable 9x 2.5 W Solar Panel". So 22.5 Watt... that should suffice. That's at 18v * 1.25a.
It seems that all the solutions that comes with a battery are all quite pricey, but then I don't really need some fancy battery do I? Some do-it-yourself solution should be fine as long as the battery is rechargeable, 4AH("at least") and 12v right?
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
By the way, is the battery an absolute necessity or is that only if I want to charge during the evening/night?
What I hope to be able to do is; be away from mains for about one week at a time, and use my laptop, say, 8 hours a day. I hope this will be enough...
Miki T. said:
That's at 18v * 1.25a.
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Asus charger will put out 15V at most, as marked on the charger itself. I don't think I'd use anything higher than 12V into the tablet/dock. You'd probably want to use some kind of voltage regulator to drop the 18V to 12V.
Without knowing the internal workings of the dock/tablet, I can't really comment more than that.
Miki T. said:
Great! Lots of useful replies... thanks a lot!
I plan on not using the adapter and use a USB extender the way msticninja wrote, since I don't want to carry or pay for something that delivers 50-100W.
I think I've found the panel I am going to buy. I cannot include outside links until I've posted 8 messages, but you can easily find it by googling "Portable 9x 2.5 W Solar Panel". So 22.5 Watt... that should suffice. That's at 18v * 1.25a.
It seems that all the solutions that comes with a battery are all quite pricey, but then I don't really need some fancy battery do I? Some do-it-yourself solution should be fine as long as the battery is rechargeable, 4AH("at least") and 12v right?
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
By the way, is the battery an absolute necessity or is that only if I want to charge during the evening/night?
What I hope to be able to do is; be away from mains for about one week at a time, and use my laptop, say, 8 hours a day. I hope this will be enough...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will need some sort of voltage regulation to maintain 12V. That's pretty much a requirement for any solar charging system. Panels themselves do not usually have regulation, so the output voltage of the panel is a function of the amount of light the panel is receiving.
This is a really quick search, but this satisfies all the requirements for what you need, and it's only $20:
http://www.amazon.com/Ramsond-SunShield-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B0031FQ1S6
Feel free to search for alternatives, but use that as your starting point for searching.
Another quick search to give you an idea what you're looking for as far as batteries:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=12v+4ah+battery&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15393345737619657558&sa=X&ei=lq5MTsCGGMSCsgLgivmCBw&ved=0CHIQ8wIwAA
If I made something for myself, I'd use Lithium Ion cells and use a smart lipo charger to regulate the solar panel output, but it needs more research, and will cost more.
This will be interesting!
I've ordered the parts - the panel I mentioned, the Ramsond SunShield 12V 8A Solar Charge Controller Regulator that msticninja suggested and a Super Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V 6800mAh. I ordered the panel and the battery off of sunsky. They seem to have very fair prices.
All the parts came to a total of $164, shipping included. Compared to complete sets with the same specs I'd say that's a really good deal, provided I make it work
I'll let you know!
Miki T. said:
This will be interesting!
I've ordered the parts - the panel I mentioned, the Ramsond SunShield 12V 8A Solar Charge Controller Regulator that msticninja suggested and a Super Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V 6800mAh. I ordered the panel and the battery off of sunsky. They seem to have very fair prices.
All the parts came to a total of $164, shipping included. Compared to complete sets with the same specs I'd say that's a really good deal, provided I make it work
I'll let you know!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Give me a link to that Li-ion battery. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, you'll need to get a lipo charger instead of/in addition to the Ramsond regulator. I'll check it out for you.
EDIT: If it's this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-6800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion-Battery-/150530536976
it's hard to say, but I think it has it's own charging circuit, because the wall wart included with it doesn't look like a lithium charger. But it does have a charge finished light, so, if the light stays on when the battery isn't plugged in, you should be okay. If the green light only turns on when a fully charged battery is connected, then you might not be fine. Confirm what you're getting by posting a link, and I'll try to make sure. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, the battery will explode in a fireball.
EDIT2: This one has it's own charging circuit, and it sounds like it's what's inside the other one I linked, so you should be okay if it's either of these.
http://www.lunershop.com/product_info.php?language=en¤cy=USD&products_id=2566
Just wondering if something like this would help.
http://www.ioffer.com/i/solar-battery-panel-usb-charger-for-cell-phone-mp3-mp4-147450373?source=eisi
I have no understanding of electricity, except the basic 4th grade stuff. This is a cool project thought. I'm planning on making a 55 paracord strap that will attach to my case and fit like a messenger bag. Having solar panels to charge it and a paracord strap would make the TF a nice camping device
SwiftLegend said:
Just wondering if something like this would help.
http://www.ioffer.com/i/solar-battery-panel-usb-charger-for-cell-phone-mp3-mp4-147450373?source=eisi
I have no understanding of electricity, except the basic 4th grade stuff. This is a cool project thought. I'm planning on making a 55 paracord strap that will attach to my case and fit like a messenger bag. Having solar panels to charge it and a paracord strap would make the TF a nice camping device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, as discussed before, the TF uses 11-15V to charge, and normal USB chargers/backup batteries only put out 5V.
msticninja said:
Give me a link to that Li-ion battery. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, you'll need to get a lipo charger instead of/in addition to the Ramsond regulator. I'll check it out for you.
EDIT: If it's this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-6800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion-Battery-/150530536976
it's hard to say, but I think it has it's own charging circuit, because the wall wart included with it doesn't look like a lithium charger. But it does have a charge finished light, so, if the light stays on when the battery isn't plugged in, you should be okay. If the green light only turns on when a fully charged battery is connected, then you might not be fine. Confirm what you're getting by posting a link, and I'll try to make sure. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, the battery will explode in a fireball.
EDIT2: This one has it's own charging circuit, and it sounds like it's what's inside the other one I linked, so you should be okay if it's either of these.
http://www.lunershop.com/product_info.php?language=en¤cy=USD&products_id=2566
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fireballs are serious business...
The one I ordered is the blue one. I can't really confirm with a link since I cannot post external links until 8 posts but there shouldn't be any mistake. And it does say the following about it;
With its multi-protective device, the inner circuit pervents the box from over-recharging or over-discharging.​so it should be safe I think...
********
UPDATE 1/10/2012
This below charger and USB adapter WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
Charged fast... from 20percent to 100 percent in 2 hours!!!!!
I can now STOP using the OEM charger which is crap!
Admin: Please add this to the list of working prime accessoriesMy first transformer Prime had charging issues, ( would not charge intermittently) and I found the OEM charger that ships with the prime to be sub-par.. So:
After checking out NUMEROUS threads, I just purchased the following charger and USB adapter from Radio Shack to Use with my Prime:
This particular model has been confirmed to work on the original Transformer-
Enercell AC to DC power adapter 12vdc 1.5A
Radio Shack Model # 273-358
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3807944
used together with this USB adapter:
Model #273-227
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3643549
Does anyone know if the above Enercell 12V 1.5A charger should work on the Prime?
see post #104 here in this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321&page=11
Also, can someone confirm the Tip polarity I should use? (I believe the prime uses Positive tip polarity just like the original transformer did?)
http://www.12volt-travel.com/knowledgebase/universal-adapter-tip-polarity/
Thanks for any feedback!
********
UPDATE 1/10/2012
This above charger and USB adapter WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
Charged fast... from 20percent to 100 percent in 2 hours!!!!!
I can now STOP using the OEM charger which is crap!
Admin: Please add this to the list of working prime accessories
********
UPDATE 1/10/2012
This above charger and USB adapter WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
Charged fast... from 20percent to 100 percent in 2 hours!!!!!
I can now STOP using the OEM charger which is crap!
The charger doesn't even get barely warm while it charges... much better than OEM for me!
Admin: Please add this to the list of working prime accessories
I thought I read somewhere that fast charges aren't good for the long term viability of lithium-based batteries.
---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_increase_the_runtime_of_your_wireless_device
Simple Guidelines to Prolong Lithium-ion Batteries
Do not discharge Li-ion too low; charge more often.
A random or partial charge is fine. Li-ion does not need a full charge.
Limit the time the battery resides at 4.20/cell (full charge), especially if warm.
Moderate the charge current to between 0.5C and 0.8C for cobalt-based lithium-ion. Avoid ultra-fast charging and discharging.
If the charger allows, lower the charge voltage limit to prolong battery life.
Keep the battery cool. Move it away from heat-generating environments. Avoid hot cars and windowsills.
High heat and full state-of-charge, not cycling, cause short battery life in laptops.
Remove battery from laptop when used on the power grid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I would avoid third-party chargers. Have had a lot of problems with them for laptops.
clankfu said:
Moderate the charge current to between 0.5C and 0.8C for cobalt-based lithium-ion. Avoid ultra-fast charging and discharging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Taking 2 hours to charge implies a 0.5C charge rate.
What's the rated voltage, current and wattage of the stock charger anyway?
Please note that the above charger won't work overseas. It's only got 110V.
webbrowser said:
Taking 2 hours to charge implies a 0.5C charge rate.
What's the rated voltage, current and wattage of the stock charger anyway?
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Stock charger is rated 15 volts DC @ 1.2 Amps
This radio Shack charger That is working for me is rated 12volts DC @ 1.5Amps.
I read the Transformer specs required to chagre are 11V to 15V DC @ 1A to 2A max
This charger fits within these specs, so that is why it works pretty well. The TP and the charger itself do not get hot at all, so I don't think this is causing any issues with the battery. Does anyone think a slightly quicker charge time will harm the battery long term?
Li-Ion Batteries are sensitive to fast charging. While it is within specs, your long term battery life could be affected. There is probably a reason that Asus decided to stay at the very bottom end of the spec.
nslayden said:
Li-Ion Batteries are sensitive to fast charging. While it is within specs, your long term battery life could be affected. There is probably a reason that Asus decided to stay at the very bottom end of the spec.
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I have done additional research due to above feed back in regard to Li-Ion's sensitivity with faster chargers.
Apparently, you are correct in regard to long term battery life concerns. I have only done 3 charges so far with the Radio Shack charger. I will let it drain down and switch over to the stock for now and just keep this other one as a backup. Is charging at 300MA more than OEM that much more of significant concern?
Better safe than sorry. Hopefully the few charges I have done did not cause any harm.... If the stock charger goes bad again though, I don't know if I would buy another one....
What was interesting is how hot the stock charger becomes in comparison to the radio shack model, which barely gets even warm. I always was a believer that more heat means less efficiency, so I'm somewhat confused, but I don't want to risk shortening the battery life, so I will go back to OEM stock charger for now, but reluctantly.
I wonder How these "alternative" chargers have effected the batteries for others with the original transformer?
That's an expensive charging setup... nearly $40 eek
mazjohn said:
I have done additional research due to above feed back in regard to Li-Ion's sensitivity with faster chargers.
Apparently, you are correct in regard to long term battery life concerns. I have only done 3 charges so far with the Radio Shack charger. I will let it drain down and switch over to the stock for now and just keep this other one as a backup. Is charging at 300MA more than OEM that much more of significant concern?
Better safe than sorry. Hopefully the few charges I have done did not cause any harm.... If the stock charger goes bad again though, I don't know if I would buy another one....
What was interesting is how hot the stock charger becomes in comparison to the radio shack model, which barely gets even warm. I always was a believer that more heat means less efficiency, so I'm somewhat confused, but I don't want to risk shortening the battery life, so I will go back to OEM stock charger for now, but reluctantly.
I wonder How these "alternative" chargers have effected the batteries for others with the original transformer?
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I wouldn't worry if I were you. What you bought is just an adapter with a USB socket. The part which decides how to charge the battery is inside the tablet. The requirement for the adapter is to have the same voltage as the original one and at least as much current ( meaning 1.2A or more). The tablet will only take what it needs.
Be careful http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&gl=US
susko said:
Be careful http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&gl=US
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It's always easy to scare people. It does say in the description of the movie that he did it by removing the protection circuit. They are designed with protection, so of course they will blow up without one.
Dude why so serious?
It was a joke thus a smiley was implemented. It is quite difficult to do that to a battery. Although I have seen some insane people in the RC hobby community destroy expensive cars and helicopter this way.
Lipo+ignorance=Hollywood style explosions
I saw the smile, don't worry. It is just that most of people, especially when they do not have the knowledge about something, tend to see the bad part (I'm also guilty of this, not in this domain though ).
So, it was not anything against you, the video is entertaining. I just wanted to put people at ease.
Charging Issues
It does not matter the type of rechargeable battery, any "quick charge" will reduce the battery life. I personally don't think 300mA is that much of a difference, but am sure the battery life would be reduced somewhat over time. Nor would I worry much from just 3 charges.
However I don't think we should have to shell out an additional $40 just because Asus can't build quality components. Mine quit charging consistently yesterday (week and a half). I guess we can put it in the same category as GPS...non professional and spotty at best.
EatMy45 said:
However I don't think we should have to shell out an additional $40 just because Asus can't build quality components. Mine quit charging consistently yesterday (week and a half). I guess we can put it in the same category as GPS...non professional and spotty at best.
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Don't worry, ASUS will remove the charger from the SPECs and say it is no longer supported, problem solved...
Just curious if anyone else will try or has tried this?
I note the Xperia Tablet Z has NFC pins for wireless charging. From the Nexus 7 I know you can solder to these points internally and use a Qi charging pad.
Given the size of the XTZ I imagine you cannot fit a pad inside to do this (nor would you want to open this), but, in conjunction with a case, has anyone tried soldering to the external nfc?
I have a tablet on order and will be trying this and was curious if anyone else has attempted it. USB charging is slow, and perhaps this will allow us to charge faster than usb?
Sean09 said:
Just curious if anyone else will try or has tried this?
I note the Xperia Tablet Z has NFC pins for wireless charging. From the Nexus 7 I know you can solder to these points internally and use a Qi charging pad.
Given the size of the XTZ I imagine you cannot fit a pad inside to do this (nor would you want to open this), but, in conjunction with a case, has anyone tried soldering to the external nfc?
I have a tablet on order and will be trying this and was curious if anyone else has attempted it. USB charging is slow, and perhaps this will allow us to charge faster than usb?
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I think that is possible because:
1) It have two external contact pin on left-side that for charging for docking.
2) Refers to this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3GJSlpFFVc, you can find the positive pin and negative pin or ask someone has a docking.
3) buy a coil from http://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Product-Wireless-Charger-Receiver/dp/B00BHOR3SA
4) Find some cases that suitable hold the coil.
for safety, find out the voltage from docking contact pin.
I am going to give it a try once mine arrives, as the dock charges faster than the USB, so it should take the Qi no problem. Just a matter of cleanly integrating it into the case I choose, since based on the disassembly I have seen there is no space internally. Fitted between the case and tablet shouldn't be a huge issue.
Sean09 said:
I am going to give it a try once mine arrives, as the dock charges faster than the USB, so it should take the Qi no problem. Just a matter of cleanly integrating it into the case I choose, since based on the disassembly I have seen there is no space internally. Fitted between the case and tablet shouldn't be a huge issue.
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Did you have a go at this? Curious to know if you were successful or not.
Unfortunately I was unable to do any sort of testing on this matter as once I returned home where my supplies were, the tablet stopped working. Once I get a replacement I will investigate further.
Bummer, that's unfortuneate. Would be great if you could keep us informed as to how you go with this. Time permitting, I may have a shot as well.
Anyone make progress? I'm trying to figure it a decent way to attach the wires without soldering to the tablet.
You absolutely have to find out what voltage and current the docking station pins are rated for or else you're very likely to fry something. It's very possible that the docking connector uses a higher voltage than 5 V or a higher current than 1.5 A, especially considering the dock charges noticeably faster than the USB charger.
Since the port on the tablet has a lot bigger contact surface area than those of a micro USB connector, my guess would be that they use a higher current, but it might as well be a higher voltage and the large surface area is for providing a reliable connection. You will have to find this out yourself with a multimeter unless it's explicitly stated on the docking station.
Djhg2000 said:
You absolutely have to find out what voltage and current the docking station pins are rated for or else you're very likely to fry something. It's very possible that the docking connector uses a higher voltage than 5 V or a higher current than 1.5 A, especially considering the dock charges noticeably faster than the USB charger.
Since the port on the tablet has a lot bigger contact surface area than those of a micro USB connector, my guess would be that they use a higher current, but it might as well be a higher voltage and the large surface area is for providing a reliable connection. You will have to find this out yourself with a multimeter unless it's explicitly stated on the docking station.
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Given that the dock charges well above what Qi does, how can you damage it by not applying enough power? Worst case it won't charge well, but you can't really overload it, no? How can a 500-1000ma Qi pad getting connected cause it to get damaged if it wants more power?
I note a guy built his own pogo pin charger here as well, which may be another option for me as I cannot think of a decent way to affix the wire without solder.
http://chargeconverter.com/blog/?p=194#comment-1930
I know you can damage it by reversing polarity, however.
Sean09 said:
Given that the dock charges well above what Qi does, how can you damage it by not applying enough power? Worst case it won't charge well, but you can't really overload it, no? How can a 500-1000ma Qi pad getting connected cause it to get damaged if it wants more power?
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I wasn't talking specifically about the tablet when I said "fry something". It's true that applying a lower voltage than what the tablet expects shouldn't cause any damage, but there's no way of knowing without analyzing the charging circuits. It may confuse the charging circuit and provide power backwards.
On the topic of current, a Qi pad rated for 1000 mA would definitely not be enough. I'm not sure what a Qi pad contains, but it would at least need a coil and a rectifier. Assuming there's no current limiter involved, these components would get hotter than expected and possibly overheat, causing damage to some extent.
By all means, build your own hardware but don't skip out on your research.
Djhg2000 said:
You absolutely have to find out what voltage and current the docking station pins are rated for or else you're very likely to fry something. It's very possible that the docking connector uses a higher voltage than 5 V or a higher current than 1.5 A, especially considering the dock charges noticeably faster than the USB charger.
Since the port on the tablet has a lot bigger contact surface area than those of a micro USB connector, my guess would be that they use a higher current, but it might as well be a higher voltage and the large surface area is for providing a reliable connection. You will have to find this out yourself with a multimeter unless it's explicitly stated on the docking station.
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Djhg2000 said:
I wasn't talking specifically about the tablet when I said "fry something". It's true that applying a lower voltage than what the tablet expects shouldn't cause any damage, but there's no way of knowing without analyzing the charging circuits. It may confuse the charging circuit and provide power backwards.
On the topic of current, a Qi pad rated for 1000 mA would definitely not be enough. I'm not sure what a Qi pad contains, but it would at least need a coil and a rectifier. Assuming there's no current limiter involved, these components would get hotter than expected and possibly overheat, causing damage to some extent.
By all means, build your own hardware but don't skip out on your research.
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Thanks for the pointers. Seems my qi receiver pad is only rated for 650ma and gets extremely hot as the tablet is connected, presumably because it is trying to draw the 1750~ the dock provides. I would assume if I left it for long periods it would melt the receiver. I will order one rated for 1000ma to see if it gets as hot, then worry about permanently affixing it.