Xperia Tablet Z Qi Charging Possibility? - Xperia Tablet Z Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Just curious if anyone else will try or has tried this?
I note the Xperia Tablet Z has NFC pins for wireless charging. From the Nexus 7 I know you can solder to these points internally and use a Qi charging pad.
Given the size of the XTZ I imagine you cannot fit a pad inside to do this (nor would you want to open this), but, in conjunction with a case, has anyone tried soldering to the external nfc?
I have a tablet on order and will be trying this and was curious if anyone else has attempted it. USB charging is slow, and perhaps this will allow us to charge faster than usb?

Sean09 said:
Just curious if anyone else will try or has tried this?
I note the Xperia Tablet Z has NFC pins for wireless charging. From the Nexus 7 I know you can solder to these points internally and use a Qi charging pad.
Given the size of the XTZ I imagine you cannot fit a pad inside to do this (nor would you want to open this), but, in conjunction with a case, has anyone tried soldering to the external nfc?
I have a tablet on order and will be trying this and was curious if anyone else has attempted it. USB charging is slow, and perhaps this will allow us to charge faster than usb?
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I think that is possible because:
1) It have two external contact pin on left-side that for charging for docking.
2) Refers to this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3GJSlpFFVc, you can find the positive pin and negative pin or ask someone has a docking.
3) buy a coil from http://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Product-Wireless-Charger-Receiver/dp/B00BHOR3SA
4) Find some cases that suitable hold the coil.
for safety, find out the voltage from docking contact pin.

I am going to give it a try once mine arrives, as the dock charges faster than the USB, so it should take the Qi no problem. Just a matter of cleanly integrating it into the case I choose, since based on the disassembly I have seen there is no space internally. Fitted between the case and tablet shouldn't be a huge issue.

Sean09 said:
I am going to give it a try once mine arrives, as the dock charges faster than the USB, so it should take the Qi no problem. Just a matter of cleanly integrating it into the case I choose, since based on the disassembly I have seen there is no space internally. Fitted between the case and tablet shouldn't be a huge issue.
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Click to collapse
Did you have a go at this? Curious to know if you were successful or not.

Unfortunately I was unable to do any sort of testing on this matter as once I returned home where my supplies were, the tablet stopped working. Once I get a replacement I will investigate further.

Bummer, that's unfortuneate. Would be great if you could keep us informed as to how you go with this. Time permitting, I may have a shot as well.

Anyone make progress? I'm trying to figure it a decent way to attach the wires without soldering to the tablet.

You absolutely have to find out what voltage and current the docking station pins are rated for or else you're very likely to fry something. It's very possible that the docking connector uses a higher voltage than 5 V or a higher current than 1.5 A, especially considering the dock charges noticeably faster than the USB charger.
Since the port on the tablet has a lot bigger contact surface area than those of a micro USB connector, my guess would be that they use a higher current, but it might as well be a higher voltage and the large surface area is for providing a reliable connection. You will have to find this out yourself with a multimeter unless it's explicitly stated on the docking station.

Djhg2000 said:
You absolutely have to find out what voltage and current the docking station pins are rated for or else you're very likely to fry something. It's very possible that the docking connector uses a higher voltage than 5 V or a higher current than 1.5 A, especially considering the dock charges noticeably faster than the USB charger.
Since the port on the tablet has a lot bigger contact surface area than those of a micro USB connector, my guess would be that they use a higher current, but it might as well be a higher voltage and the large surface area is for providing a reliable connection. You will have to find this out yourself with a multimeter unless it's explicitly stated on the docking station.
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Given that the dock charges well above what Qi does, how can you damage it by not applying enough power? Worst case it won't charge well, but you can't really overload it, no? How can a 500-1000ma Qi pad getting connected cause it to get damaged if it wants more power?
I note a guy built his own pogo pin charger here as well, which may be another option for me as I cannot think of a decent way to affix the wire without solder.
http://chargeconverter.com/blog/?p=194#comment-1930
I know you can damage it by reversing polarity, however.

Sean09 said:
Given that the dock charges well above what Qi does, how can you damage it by not applying enough power? Worst case it won't charge well, but you can't really overload it, no? How can a 500-1000ma Qi pad getting connected cause it to get damaged if it wants more power?
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Click to collapse
I wasn't talking specifically about the tablet when I said "fry something". It's true that applying a lower voltage than what the tablet expects shouldn't cause any damage, but there's no way of knowing without analyzing the charging circuits. It may confuse the charging circuit and provide power backwards.
On the topic of current, a Qi pad rated for 1000 mA would definitely not be enough. I'm not sure what a Qi pad contains, but it would at least need a coil and a rectifier. Assuming there's no current limiter involved, these components would get hotter than expected and possibly overheat, causing damage to some extent.
By all means, build your own hardware but don't skip out on your research.

Djhg2000 said:
You absolutely have to find out what voltage and current the docking station pins are rated for or else you're very likely to fry something. It's very possible that the docking connector uses a higher voltage than 5 V or a higher current than 1.5 A, especially considering the dock charges noticeably faster than the USB charger.
Since the port on the tablet has a lot bigger contact surface area than those of a micro USB connector, my guess would be that they use a higher current, but it might as well be a higher voltage and the large surface area is for providing a reliable connection. You will have to find this out yourself with a multimeter unless it's explicitly stated on the docking station.
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Click to collapse
Djhg2000 said:
I wasn't talking specifically about the tablet when I said "fry something". It's true that applying a lower voltage than what the tablet expects shouldn't cause any damage, but there's no way of knowing without analyzing the charging circuits. It may confuse the charging circuit and provide power backwards.
On the topic of current, a Qi pad rated for 1000 mA would definitely not be enough. I'm not sure what a Qi pad contains, but it would at least need a coil and a rectifier. Assuming there's no current limiter involved, these components would get hotter than expected and possibly overheat, causing damage to some extent.
By all means, build your own hardware but don't skip out on your research.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the pointers. Seems my qi receiver pad is only rated for 650ma and gets extremely hot as the tablet is connected, presumably because it is trying to draw the 1750~ the dock provides. I would assume if I left it for long periods it would melt the receiver. I will order one rated for 1000ma to see if it gets as hot, then worry about permanently affixing it.

Related

[Q] Gauging Interest | Laptop power brick to G-Tablet Charger

Trying to gauge interest for a pet project.
How many of you would be interested in an adapter that would allow you to use a laptop "brick" to charge your G-Tab?
First design is going to be for the Dell laptop power supplies (since I have a plethora of them )
If there is enough interest in other laptop supplies I will look at different connectors as well.
No idea on mfg costs right now, need to prove concept first. Cost target (Resale) is ~$10
I'd like to see and adapter that fits the Dell D and E series Latitude chargers.
That's the one I'm aiming for initially. Newer series Dell with the ROUND receptacle. I "think" it might still work with the octagonal receptecles though. Need to get some samples and try it out for fit.
Cost might be sligthly higher than I originally anticipated (Still <$20 though) - the damn Dell connector is a quasi-custom and cheapest I've found is $6+ shipping....grumble....
If the old receptacles work, that brings the cost down.
Haven't priced the tablet side connector yet, but I'm guessing it's going to be a couple bucks with a lead on it.
More to come....hoping to have some parts by next week to start building up protos.
I'd be very interested in something that would plug into a USB port on a desktop or laptop or any USB power supply.
I have a couple of D-Series laptops and would love to use the same charger for them and my G-Tab. I would definitely buy one.
nunjabusiness said:
I'd be very interested in something that would plug into a USB port on a desktop or laptop or any USB power supply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have USB3.0 it "might" be possible as that has higher current carrying (3.6W) potential than USB1 and USB2.0 which are ~500mW at best. That's one disadvanage to the big ass battery in these things, which I think are 7.2V, so they usually require a higher input voltage (hence why we get 12V in). Even with USB3.0 though, we are still looking at long (10x+) charging times versus the wall-wart.
It's "technically" possible to step up the current USB 5V to 12V, but the power level is so low that it would take forever and a day to charge ( or about 48x longer than the current 12V/2A wall charger)
without a proper teardown though, it's tough to tell what the charging circuit looks like on the board. My guess is it's a 12V / 7.2V buck charger as it's cheaper than a boost/buck to implement. My bigger question about the internal charging circuit though is what it actually draws in terms of power...the wall wart is rated for 12V/2A, but those are usually overbuilt to prevent them from blowing up. Hoping it's closer to 1A draw, but again without knowing what the charger chip is, there's no (Easy) way to determine this without probing the connections.
bnovak said:
How many of you would be interested in an adapter that would allow you to use a laptop "brick" to charge your G-Tab?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Count me in as well. I travel a ton for work and having one less charger to stuff in my carry-on would be great - well worth the sub-$20 price.
I currently pack a PA-4E, stock charger for a Latitude E6510
I would be interested, though I have an ASUS laptop at the moment.
On a side note, if you did only decide to make one and it were for Dell, anyone could purchase a universal adapter and care the one adapter and two tips. Just a thought.

Power Accessories (Wall & Car) Voltage

Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Good news - you can plug just about anything into it from 9V up to 18V and it should charge it. Theoretically, it should also support step up charging from USB (trickle charge) but I've yet to prove that. (The power management processor supports it, but it might not be in the hardware.)
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
So, if you find a connector that fits it, plug it in. Don't worry about the current draw - as long as it's 1A or GREATER it should work fine (the device won't pull more than an 1A, even though our chargers are spec'd for 2)
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
sunglint said:
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
Click to expand...
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While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
From Wikipedia:
A second problem is that nominally "Twelve-Volt" power in cars fluctuates widely. The actual voltage will be approximately 12.5 volts when dormant, (less when cold) approximately 14.5 volts when the engine and the alternator/generator are operating, (more when cold) and may briefly drop as low as 5-6 volts during engine start.[7] DC/DC converters will usually compensate for these small fluctuations.[citation needed]
Rarely, more extreme cases of voltage fluctuation can occur when the car battery is disconnected while the engine is running, or when the car receives a jump start. When the battery is disconnected, a load dump transient can produce very high voltages. A car receiving a jump start from a truck will be subject to its 24 V electrical system.[8] A "double battery jump-start" is performed by some tow truck drivers in cold climates.[9]
Design wise one has to take into account intermittent contact, and voltages outside the nominal 12 V DC like top voltage 9-16 V continuously, top voltage at 20 V during 1 hour, 24 V during 1 minute, 40 V during 400 ms.[10] Protection component tolerance example ratings are +50 to -60 V DC[11] Besides this there's also varying temperatures between -40 till +85 °C to contend with that can affect humidity and condensation.[10] Equipment connected this way must tolerate large variations in electrical- and climate environment.
For more, look at table 20-1 in http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download/EMC_CS_2009rev1.pdf which is reference [10] in the Wikipedia article. Granted, that's very conservative, but a 1A 12V low drop out regulator is cheap insurance for a piece of kit like our tablets.
Interesting. If you plug in tablet and that part number into Google you get lots of familiar looking pictures:
http://www.kitarm.com/news/205-cortex-a9-nvidia-tegra2-tablet-pc-with-10.html (and the photos are marked with this site: http://www.okpbw.com/).
bnovak said:
Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aasoror said:
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you read the same post I did? His suggestion is that 19V is too high and still needs to be converted.
wd5gnr said:
While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
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Click to collapse
I agree, and thanks for the info. I do ham radio and already know to not plug things in until the car is running, actually learned that from xda years back from cell phone charging. I also use Anderson Powerpoles for the connections, very highly recommend these. This does mean that given the same precautions I already follow I can make up a nice charging cable pretty easily. And I'll certainly look in to the low voltage protection, just in case.
edit:just saw the call sign, 73s!
well unfortunately I can say that this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MYLLCC
doesnt work
actually it might
it just doenst fit......
sigh
My husband just remembered that we bought a power converter years ago to charge a laptop while traveling in Europe.
Would this work without any problems with the Gtab?
Found the model here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jg9JaV...er-Pocket-Inverter-175.html?tab=detailed_info
You mean by plugging in the AC charger to it? Should work fine. The output of the stock charger is about 24W so even if it is grossly inefficient, a 140W power inverter should be fine.
Naturally, I assume no risk, yada yada yada, your mileage may vary, void where prohibited by law.
Hey, if it helps anyone at all, I bought this car adapter from the radio shack and it works well. None of the included tips worked with my Gtab, so I cut the tip off my included wall charger and using two of the adapt-a-plug connectors also available at the shack, I made it so I can use the tip on either my wall charger or my car charger. Just gotta remember to take it with me, and of course get the polarity right. Its a regulated 12 volt charger, so it reduces some of the spikes and drops from the car battery, the amperage is correct, and the on/off switch means you can wait to turn it on until after the car is started. Reduces the amount of plugging and unplugging nicely.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3889594
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
LoganFive said:
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GTab can't be charged via USB
Power Brick
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
greymane98 said:
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another member reported earlier that he has researched the power management chip on the GTab and it will apparently run up 18v, this justify why many has been using the iGO Asus netbook tip successfully for so long.
Now for the woot deal, I wouldn't bother with a "refurbished" item when you can get the tried and working travel adapter for $18 (shipped) and $20 (for the version with the auto and airplane adapter) there is a confirmed tip that fits the gtab included.
http://www.buy.com/listing/sellerlistings.asp?sku=211343528&buy=0
http://www.buy.com/prod/-igo-40w-un...usb-4-power-tips-for/q/loc/101/219613586.html
Best of luck,
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
I've been using an iGo netbook charger for 3 weeks without any problem. I found it on sale at Office Depot for $8 the week before they dropped the GTab price to $300. Three weeks is probably only 7 or 8 charge cycles, but I've paid attention looking for hot spots, etc. and haven't noticed anything. I don't love the stiffness of the cable, but it was $8. I'm not complaining.
My only charging "problem" is that the silly thing wakes up when it hits 100% (VEGAn-TAB Ginger). Having the screen come on at full brightness just when I'm falling asleep was funny the first time, but it's getting annoying that I keep forgetting to power it off.
Dan
wd5gnr said:
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
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Click to collapse
My mistake, I stand corrected, its 18v.
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
hopbros said:
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
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Click to collapse
the end in the tablet itself, or the end with the wire that goes to the wall?
if it's the wire end, you can get new plugs at radioshack. But requires some soldering skill to get them on there.
or you can get a universal 12-18V / 1amp charger with multiple tips.

[DEV] Boost USB power to NC from computer

Greetings Devs.
I found this software which promises to charge i products faster. So why not the nook? I know it works with the ipad/iphone/itouch, but not the NC (or anything else for that matter). I was looking in the ini file and managed to match up the class id of each product, and then I found the id for the NC and added this line:
HKLM, System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{3f966bd9-fa04-4ec5-991c-d326973b5128}, LowerFilters, %REG_MULTI_SZ_APPEND%, AiCharger
To both the install and uninstall filter. However, I cannot tell if it pushes extra power to just the ipad, or if it does to all of them.
Ideas? Tried digging around the sys file in hex, but nothing found. I think it would be nice if we could boost output a bit
USB Standard is 500mAh. If you somehow force your port to deliver more power you could fry it.
khaytsus said:
USB Standard is 500mAh. If you somehow force your port to deliver more power you could fry it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well yeah, but no one is at least curious if this could help out at all? Maybe hardware manufactures cap it @ 5V, .5A and they override it? Maybe it provides a steadier draw somehow? Maybe they draw more power from the rails for powered-usb slots?
ace7196 said:
Well yeah, but no one is at least curious if this could help out at all? Maybe hardware manufactures cap it @ 5V, .5A and they override it? Maybe it provides a steadier draw somehow? Maybe they draw more power from the rails for powered-usb slots?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging more than 500ma through the USB hardware is bad.
Lithium batteries charge at full amperage over the entire charge cycle, and just turn off the charge when they hit a certain voltage (~3.6v per cell on lipo IIRC?)
I don't think there is anything you can do from the computer side unless it tells the device itself to pull the full 500ma when it would try to pull less (for fear of overloading a USB interface, as there are usually 2 ports per USB port on a computer (IIRC.)
IMO, just use a powered USB hub?
Winmo custom roms had a quick-charge feature built in to a lot of them.
I don't think anyone fried anything.
This thread belongs in QnA though unless the op is actually developing something.
Did any naysayers even bother to look at the link? It is for Asus brand mobos only. And only certain ones are supported. Surely Asus isn't going to release an app that would fry the port...
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA App
lafester said:
Winmo custom roms had a quick-charge feature built in to a lot of them.
I don't think anyone fried anything.
This thread belongs in QnA though unless the op is actually developing something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thinking of developing the software for it...
Syco54645 said:
Did any naysayers even bother to look at the link? It is for Asus brand mobos only. And only certain ones are supported. Surely Asus isn't going to release an app that would fry the port...
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As pointed out here, this is not JUST simply software. This is the software portion of a hardware feature on Asus motherboards. The boards have a separate controller in them that allows more amperage to specific USB ports for the purpose of charging particular, high amperage items (ipad, iphone) only. As also stated here, the USB standard is a fixed 5V .5A and this isn't something that can simply be modified via software as the controllers themselves would have problems managing higher draws (not really the physical ports).
The only application this would have would be to users with those specific boards IF the software can be hacked to allow that amperage on the Nook. It may also be worth mentioning that the Nook's internal connector is different and the higher power provided by the wall charger is not over the standard USB VCC pins on the connector. I'm not familiar enough with the wiring inside the device to say for certain, but the standard charge connections from USB may be a different path than the wall charger on a charge controller.
Quick Edit: This actually doesn't appear to be the same as their hardware specific version, which most likely makes it even less useful. It looks like this enables charging in multiple standby modes and most likely forces the port to full amperage; which is typically only done after the device negotiates with the system, initial port power is much lower. My device manager shows the Nook pulling it's full 500mA already, so unless you're trying to do a lot of charging while your computer is in standby, this isn't gonna be of much use.
Edit 2: Quick bounce around the internet shows this app as causing a bit of instability and BSODs. May not be everyone, so if you're still testing this let us know if you're stable.
Infraded said:
As pointed out here, this is not JUST simply software. This is the software portion of a hardware feature on Asus motherboards. The boards have a separate controller in them that allows more amperage to specific USB ports for the purpose of charging particular, high amperage items (ipad, iphone) only. As also stated here, the USB standard is a fixed 5V .5A and this isn't something that can simply be modified via software as the controllers themselves would have problems managing higher draws (not really the physical ports).
The only application this would have would be to users with those specific boards IF the software can be hacked to allow that amperage on the Nook. It may also be worth mentioning that the Nook's internal connector is different and the higher power provided by the wall charger is not over the standard USB VCC pins on the connector. I'm not familiar enough with the wiring inside the device to say for certain, but the standard charge connections from USB may be a different path than the wall charger on a charge controller.
Quick Edit: This actually doesn't appear to be the same as their hardware specific version, which most likely makes it even less useful. It looks like this enables charging in multiple standby modes and most likely forces the port to full amperage; which is typically only done after the device negotiates with the system, initial port power is much lower. My device manager shows the Nook pulling it's full 500mA already, so unless you're trying to do a lot of charging while your computer is in standby, this isn't gonna be of much use.
Edit 2: Quick bounce around the internet shows this app as causing a bit of instability and BSODs. May not be everyone, so if you're still testing this let us know if you're stable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to use the nook's cable to quick charge. I believe it's the same on the USB side but different on the NC side.
Thanks Infraded for the helpful reply. I did a quick search and it seemed it caused more trouble than it's worth (BSOD, etc). I'll dig deeper.
I had the same issues with my iPad. If your motherboard vendor supports it, they have a BIOS update that adjusts the USB ports to charge things like the Nook and iPad.
khaytsus said:
USB Standard is 500mAh. If you somehow force your port to deliver more power you could fry it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some dell laptops (my 5400 has it) have an option in bios for USB Power Share, where they allow USB devices which know if they are connected to to wall chargers or USB plugs to charge as if they were on wall chargers.
Its epic win.
In the NC teardown, didn't they discover that the Nook Color actually uses a custom micro USB connector which is backwards compatible with the standard? It goes on to say that the NC charges only through a pair of 12V pins on the USB cable that is provided with it out of the box, and in fact when you connect your NC to your computer it is *not charging at all* even if your ROM says it is. This is consistent with my experience where the battery only goes down when plugged into my PC.
Needless to say you would need some pretty serious hardware hacks to get your PC pumping 12 volts to the USB cable.
mthe0ry said:
In the NC teardown, didn't they discover that the Nook Color actually uses a custom micro USB connector which is backwards compatible with the standard? It goes on to say that the NC charges only through a pair of 12V pins on the USB cable that is provided with it out of the box, and in fact when you connect your NC to your computer it is *not charging at all* even if your ROM says it is. This is consistent with my experience where the battery only goes down when plugged into my PC.
Needless to say you would need some pretty serious hardware hacks to get your PC pumping 12 volts to the USB cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Um, no. The wall charger puts out 5 volts @ 1.9 Amps. Take a close look at the bottom of your own charger...specs are right there. Supposedly, the nook will only charge when the amperage is at least 1.9 amps. In practice it will charge as much as can minus the current it is drawing...usually more than a standard port can put out(.5A).
ie standard port = .5A
Nook draw is ~ .45A
total for charging is .05A....barely noticeable or in worst case not even enough to keep up.
Not to mention that many ports shut down entirely if they think they are sending out to much current.
send 12 volts into your nook and you will have found one of the few ways to brick it
edit: what these"hacks" for the usb ports do is raise the limiting on them to higher values..say 5 volts @ 1A or rarely 1.5A
Two of SMSC's family of transceivers supports up to 1.5A from dedicated charger ports.
Furthermore, I'm charging my nook color from my netbook right now with a standard non-OEM usb cable. So I don't think you need the standard one
Some basic info here:
http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads/Product_Brochures/usb333x_334xfs.pdf
ace7196 said:
Two of SMSC's family of transceivers supports up to 1.5A from dedicated charger ports.
Furthermore, I'm charging my nook color from my netbook right now with a standard non-OEM usb cable. So I don't think you need the standard one
Some basic info here:
http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads/Product_Brochures/usb333x_334xfs.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I'm thinking that the extra pins in the stock cable are mostly for the led in there. Going back to work monday and ordering a spare for teardown purposes with my first check. I'll let you all know exactly what I find out.
mthe0ry said:
In the NC teardown, didn't they discover that the Nook Color actually uses a custom micro USB connector which is backwards compatible with the standard? It goes on to say that the NC charges only through a pair of 12V pins on the USB cable that is provided with it out of the box, and in fact when you connect your NC to your computer it is *not charging at all* even if your ROM says it is. This is consistent with my experience where the battery only goes down when plugged into my PC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Except that it does charge on ANY source. If the NC is running and active it uses MORE CURRENT THAN 500mAh, so it won't charge any, but it's still getting 500mAh of juice.
If you turn off the screen, it'll slowly charge.... Around 10%/hr.
And I suspect that the 1.9A from the stock charger+cable comes from all 3 pairs, the standard pair + the two extra in the B&N cable, but it's possible that the stock cable only charges the extra two pairs. Regardless, it does charge from a standard cable on any USB port. The B&N ROM does not show charging unless it's charging at 1.9A.
ace7196 said:
Two of SMSC's family of transceivers supports up to 1.5A from dedicated charger ports.
Furthermore, I'm charging my nook color from my netbook right now with a standard non-OEM usb cable. So I don't think you need the standard one
Some basic info here:
http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads/Product_Brochures/usb333x_334xfs.pdf
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Click to collapse
I can also confirm nook will charge off a standard USB (at least while I've got CM7), using the stock BN cable, and definitely faster than 10%/hour. Have been doing so off my work computer for a while now. I recall that this did NOT work while the NC was virgin unrooted, however, although occasionally there'd be this weird "bump" in batt level to 100% when first connecting. Have not seen that effect since going to CM7.
last night as a test I let my nook go to 10% remaining. Then I used my daughters LG Ally cable on the stock charger for 1 hour. It charged to 24%. Then I drained back to 10% and used the stock cable for 1 hour...result?....44%. There IS something special with the stock cable. I don't think there is any magic to the charger other than the amperage.
deadbot1 said:
last night as a test I let my nook go to 10% remaining. Then I used my daughters LG Ally cable on the stock charger for 1 hour. It charged to 24%. Then I drained back to 10% and used the stock cable for 1 hour...result?....44%. There IS something special with the stock cable. I don't think there is any magic to the charger other than the amperage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh.. Yeah. As said a hundred times, the cable has 4 extra pins for charging on the MicroUSB side.

charging mat

Is there any charging mats out there that will be compatible with TF101?
thanks. sean...
nope unless there is one that charges unmodified lithium ion batteries by induction
also transformer (i think) requires ~12 volts to charge and i don't think power mats can put out that much
it would be so practical it was built in. Imagine charging your phone on your inducted table, no more charging problem again!
sadly to answer the question, i dont think one will exist as the battery is non removeable.
My TouchPads do that elegantly.
I am afraid the TFormer does not have pickup on battery-
So they have projects everywhere that install them. Just need a Palm kit and a induction back plate. It'd thin and you solder it to the battery contacts.
Problem, like said, it only gives 5v USB power which the transformer probably wouldn't use... or so they say.
EXT LTE Galaxy Nexus - 4.0.4
Asus Transformer - ICS
player911 said:
So they have projects everywhere that install them. Just need a Palm kit and a induction back plate. It'd thin and you solder it to the battery contacts.
Problem, like said, it only gives 5v USB power which the transformer probably wouldn't use... or so they say.
EXT LTE Galaxy Nexus - 4.0.4
Asus Transformer - ICS
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Considering that Lipo cells are 4.2v max, and the 7.4v Lipo actually contains 2 3.7v Lipos (4.2v at max charge) if you could solder the chargers to each cell (not entirely impossible, if you know your way around a Lipo battery) you could probably get the cells to charge independent of one another, but the other problem would be balancing the cells, you may need another circuit added between the two Lipo cells to achieve this (I am not familiar with the wiring on the TF Lipo). I know that the charger is 15v+ simply because the dock also has a 7.4v lipo and the two must both charge from one charger, but as long as you have 8+ volts to the TF itslef it should charge the lipo, or 5v*2 induction chargers?
Someone willing to sacrifice their TF (potentially) would be required to test this though.
Thanks for the input. Basically your saying it is out of my league without a walkthrough holding my hand lol.
Me and electricity don't get along. I have no fear of solder but I'd probably do put the poles on backwards...

Wireless charging

Wireless charging cant get much better than that
I've heard banter about wireless charging over time, never really looked into it,
Being part of the device such as DNA will they be selling what accessory to allow this? a Mat or ?
jamdmyers said:
I've heard banter about wireless charging over time, never really looked into it,
Being part of the device such as DNA will they be selling what accessory to allow this? a Mat or ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
all you have to do is by the mat and put it on the mat lol
Case with wireless charging
Can we have a case on the device when we're wirelessly charging or do we have to repetitively take the case on and off when we charge? That would be a big let down if we had to. Thanks in advance.
scariestgnome said:
Can we have a case on the device when we're wirelessly charging or do we have to repetitively take the case on and off when we charge? That would be a big let down if we had to. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suppose you could.
Sent from my CM9 HTC Thunderbolt from Tapatalk 2.4
scariestgnome said:
Can we have a case on the device when we're wirelessly charging or do we have to repetitively take the case on and off when we charge? That would be a big let down if we had to. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
once i find a case that will fit i will give it a try, since the wireless pad is on my to purchase list tomorrow
Sadly, what I've been reading is that it depends on the case. Wireless charging seems to be out for the outer box users out there.
How about disruption?
If I for example, took my DNA, Keys, change etc out of my pocket and just plopped it all down on the charge pad, would the keys/change effect it's ability to charge?
Is it induction? Using Magnetic Fields etc...
Is it using the same wireless charging standard as the Nexus 4?
Correct me if I am wrong, but the DNA (at least) is using the Qi standard (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qi_(inductive_power_standard)), same as Nokia's new line up. But IDK about the Nex4.
Edit: seems like they both use Qi after all. Standards are great when they actually are used, haha. But hopefully this means the price of chargers will decrease. My only hope is that there are magnets on the back of the DNA to hold it in place, like on the Nex4.
I'm quite sure that the "wireless charging" technology is not wireless power. It's just a way of charging where it passes through the back of the case and it's at such a low voltage that you don't have to worry about touching the mat yourself. It's called wireless because it doesn't use an actual wire/cord, but calling it "cordless charging" would have been more accurate.
So I'd assume that most cases would block it, unless they are thin enough for the electricity to easily pass through. Even if it does charge, the case might slow it down.
flaring afro said:
I'm quite sure that the "wireless charging" technology is not wireless power. It's just a way of charging where it passes through the back of the case and it's at such a low voltage that you don't have to worry about touching the mat yourself. It's called wireless because it doesn't use an actual wire/cord, but calling it "cordless charging" would have been more accurate.
So I'd assume that most cases would block it, unless they are thin enough for the electricity to easily pass through. Even if it does charge, the case might slow it down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
actually the surface of the charger is not electrified at all. Its etromagentic which means the charge or field origninates from within the device and therefor there is absolutely zero danger due to physical contact and the case only has an effect based on the distance it moves the inductive coils in the phone from the base station. It cannot slow the charge unless it somehow has a faraday effect blocking out the electromagnetic field. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_charging
---------- Post added at 09:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:25 AM ----------
jonesin said:
actually the surface of the charger is not electrified at all. Its etromagentic which means the charge or field origninates from within the device and therefor there is absolutely zero danger due to physical contact and the case only has an effect based on the distance it moves the inductive coils in the phone from the base station. It cannot slow the charge unless it somehow has a faraday effect blocking out the electromagnetic field. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_charging
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
excuse spelling errors
It's like an induction hob for a kitchen cooker.
There will be a magnetic coil in the pad that, once the phone is placed onto it, will complete an electro-magnetic circuit and power the phone. iirc...
But I remember reading about how it's very different technology than "wireless power" and that you couldn't use this to power something like a PS3 because it would be dangerous and shock other things, where as something like MIT has done could power a room full of devices and you wouldnt have to worry about things getting a charge that weren't meant to. Could be wrong though, or might have been on older "wireless charging" units.
First there are many forms of wireless charging (ie. wireless transmission of electricity). In the context of the DNA (and other phones: Lumia's, Nexus 4, etc.), the method used is "Inductive Charging" (the Qi standard linked in my previous post). In this situation, the only damage that can be caused is via magnetic interference; for example, the consortium supporting Qi, posted some guidelines that hint at potential interference (AM radios, key fobs, etc.), but I don't think that this is a severe problem. Keep in mind that inductive charging has been around for years; it has just only recently become efficient enough to use (practically) in mobile devices.
flaring afro said:
But I remember reading about how it's very different technology than "wireless power" and that you couldn't use this to power something like a PS3 because it would be dangerous and shock other things, where as something like MIT has done could power a room full of devices and you wouldnt have to worry about things getting a charge that weren't meant to. Could be wrong though, or might have been on older "wireless charging" units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ps3 wouldnt pull a charge from it period. It must have an inductive charging coil inside of it to conver the AC electromagentic field to something useful otherwise the charging pad would have little effect on it other then subjecting it to an EM field. There is no actual physical connection established between the device and whatever its charging outside of the EM link thus "wireless" charging.
jonesin said:
The ps3 wouldnt pull a charge from it period. It must have an inductive charging coil inside of it to conver the AC electromagentic field to something useful otherwise the charging pad would have little effect on it other then subjecting it to an EM field. There is no actual physical connection established between the device and whatever its charging outside of the EM link thus "wireless" charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I meant something as powerful with an adapter to receive the power, not putting some coils next to it and hope for some magic to happen if you give them enough power. lol
lulz no harm no foul! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R617vPlqinI letsw just start tearing things apart when these phones ship and building these! itll be the calling card of the DNA community =D
flaring afro said:
Well, I meant something as powerful with an adapter to receive the power, not putting some coils next to it and hope for some magic to happen if you give them enough power. lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Currently the Qi standard has provisions for both "low" and "medium" power devices. Low caps out at 5W (I believe), suitable for mobile phones, etc. But the Medium power spec does hold the potential for larger more energy consuming devices.
Keep in mind, however, that the transmission process is lossy, and you only get 60-90% efficiency (okay for small devices, harder to justify for a PS3 ).
I have a wireless "Inductive" type charging mat for my Wii controllers and it works with the rubber cases still on them

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