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I have been having problems with the touchscreen and this is a last ditch effort to fi x it.
I have come to the conclusion that I need to clean out the area around the screen. I have tried blowing it, and canned air but that hasn’t work so far.
I want to open up the T-mobile and clean it. Does anyone have any advice?? I am trying to find the FCC’s photos as a reference. Much thanks, I have learned quite a bit from this forum and I appreciate everyones help.
I'll start with assembly advice--be careful of the position of the on/off button relative to the switch below it as you snap the case back together. Don't ask me how I learned this... :shock:
The connector for the large ribbon cable from the screen has a flip-up cover/retainer, not the standard sliding retainer like the other cables.
There is a screw under a "Warranty Void if removed" sticker which must be removed. If you use a pen knife and a steady hand, you can remove the sticker and put it back. The sticker is one of those fragmented ones, so you must be extremely careful and slow.
Work on a soft surface (anti-stat mat, table cloth, etc) so parts that fall out don't bounce/roll and get lost.
Cover the screen face so you don't damage it accidentally.
Thanks! that helps......I am going to give it a try tommorrow...
One more question........the screws on the top of the XDA are standard flathead.......but the bottom two look hexagon shape...or sort of like a allen wrench...anyone know what to use to unscrew these????
It's a Torx, not sure what size. I think a T4, based upon the fact that my T5 was slightly too big. I ended up using a 1mm hex key which I had filed lightly on two of the sides.
Carlos said:
It's a Torx, not sure what size. I think a T4, based upon the fact that my T5 was slightly too big. I ended up using a 1mm hex key which I had filed lightly on two of the sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do yourself a favour and get the right Torx. You have no idea what a pain these things are to remove if they ever lose their teeth. It's a T-8, at least that's what it says on mine.
hi,
if u r not ,that, expert,,,,,,do not try to open it,,,go to some service center and get it cleaned.
or there would be an increase in posts ''xda not working ''
That's weird, I wonder if they used different size screws here in the US? I was wrong though, it's a T7 that was too big, so the right one would be T5 or T6 then for mine. Peter Poelman, you're in the Orient, are you not? Ever compare screw sizes with European units?
I usually agree with the "right tool" advice, but I was simply unable to find one anywhere (and I tried all the proper tool and electronics shops). The 1mm slightly shaved fit PERFECTLY with no damage to the screws at all.
Carlos said:
Peter Poelman, you're in the Orient, are you not? Ever compare screw sizes with European units?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm in Europe. Smack in the formal magical center of it. Now where that nice torq and screwdriver set is from, I don't know...
torx
the torx on mine are T6 same as ericsson phones and ipaq ppc.
Hey guys and girls. I have a 8525 and the tip of the stylus broke off my phone while I was trying to remove it. Now the stylus is stuck in the phone and I need assistance in removing it without opening the phone.
Remember only the plastc tip on the end broke off. I tried tweezers but they were too large. Suggestions please.
Try an unfolded paperclip. If you can see the tip but still can't get it out, I would try some superglue on the end of the paperclip and put it on the tip until it sets...
Rif_Luna said:
Try an unfolded paperclip. If you can see the tip but still can't get it out, I would try some superglue on the end of the paperclip and put it on the tip until it sets...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that a spot of superglue on the end of something is probably the way. Though personally I'd take the back off to remove it. I think a paperclip might be too thin and a bit hit or miss - but if you are not short of time then maybe you can spend the day fishing for it!!.
Just so we know where it is lodged - it is stuck in the white clip in these pictures (taken from another thread with a slightly different purpose).
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1206800&postcount=35
One thing you MUST avoid if you use a spot of superglue on a rod of some sort is hitting the rubber block on the way up the silo. If you touch that with superglue it will stick fast and will likely unstick the block if you try to pull it out again. If you use this technique it would be VITAL to keep the rod you are inserting against the back side of the slot to avoid hitting the rubber block.
Mike
Mike
Okay guys. Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know my results. Also only the tip of the stylus broke so I don't have to worry about the rubber pad. In fact, the rubber pad is what is keeping the stylus in the phone because I could never get a good enough grip to get past it.
Success!
What's up fellas? I have finally went to work and got the stylus removed from my phone. I used a very small screwdriver to slowly pull it out and did not need crazy glue, a safety clip or to take the phone apart.
Thanks for all the assistance. I have included a picture of the stylus so you can see where it broke. The picture is with it extended, but remember it was compact when it was in the phone.
Peace, love and sex!
addicus said:
What's up fellas? I have finally went to work and got the stylus removed from my phone. I used a very small screwdriver to slowly pull it out and did not need crazy glue, a safety clip or to take the phone apart.
Thanks for all the assistance. I have included a picture of the stylus so you can see where it broke. The picture is with it extended, but remember it was compact when it was in the phone.
Peace, love and sex!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done!
.... and I had misunderstood! I thought it was just the little greyish pointing tip that was stuck in the slot. Obviously the part that came off was at the opposite end. Not that it matters now
Mike
Mine broke like that on my old wizard, and the broken off plastic was still inside the stylus body, so there was nothing to grip. It was still in warranty, and I didnt want to have to send it off, so I had to drill into the stylus, and then stuck a small screwdriver through the hole and worked it out.
jez83uk said:
Mine broke like that on my old wizard, and the broken off plastic was still inside the stylus body, so there was nothing to grip. It was still in warranty, and I didnt want to have to send it off, so I had to drill into the stylus, and then stuck a small screwdriver through the hole and worked it out.
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Click to collapse
Finding a drill long and skinny enough to accomplish that must have been difficult. Granted I also have a Wizard (8125) and the stylus opening is slightly more accessible. I think that is a great option if it occurs again.
this happened to me on the same exact phone.. I used a paperclip and a lighter.. I heated up the paperclip with the lighter then pushed it into the plastic that was left in the broken end in the phone.. waited a few moments for the paperclip to cool down then simply pulled it out.
worked great.
addicus said:
What's up fellas? I have finally went to work and got the stylus removed from my phone. I used a very small screwdriver to slowly pull it out and did not need crazy glue, a safety clip or to take the phone apart.
Thanks for all the assistance. I have included a picture of the stylus so you can see where it broke. The picture is with it extended, but remember it was compact when it was in the phone.
Peace, love and sex!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well i guess it a issue ..8525 so i found easy way a toothpick fits righ in and conforms to the shape...
today my at&t tilt2 accidently fell from my hands and got heavily scratched on the chrome shell (bezel) the bezel even got few small dents & & the chrome colour came out
so i wanted to ask how can i remove this bezel,as i thought to remove it sand it & then paint it chrome again
& also suggest me is my idea good or not
no rplys? atleast tell me hw can i remove those scratches & dents
i wanna know this too since i just dropped mine today and its a fairly small chip but i still get a little crazy over it
please help us out
Sorry for bad news but to remove the bezel you'll need to fully dissassemble your TP2. You'll have to dismantle the main housing to unscrew hinges. Once you separate the upper part with LCD you'll be able to open it, and then separate the bezel from LCD and digitizer. I've done it myself couple of times but be aware that is not a 5 minute job (especially if you're new to this). You'll need tools - small philips screwdriver, small star screwdriver an special plastic prying tool (couple of them, they get broken easily, you don't have to use them but you'll most likely scratch the phone). You can get tool sets on ebay. Word of advice - if only possible try not to separate LCD and digitizer. Once you get dust and/or fingerprints between them it's a HELL of a job to get rid of them.
Check out mike channon's site for dissassembly guide.
Good luck guys!
EDIT: Personally, I would rather try to do some touch-up repairs without opening the phone if possible.
touch up repairs like what? suggest me something specific
I want to replace my screen and bezel but don't mind stripping the whole phone down if thats what is needed.
Try this link http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pdacenter.ru%2Frazborka%2Fhtc_touch_pro2%2F&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
As mentioned by pjm77 this does not look easy, and chances are if your not very careful you could mess up your phone.
By touch up I mean trying to paint the damage to make it less visible. Can't really say if that's possible in your case - judge for yourself. Dissassembling the whole phone is by all means possible, I was able to do it several times and I'm just an enthusiast. Just bear in mind that unless you're really skillfull and experienced you end up with a little damage here and there (clips broken, scratches etc.), it's time consuming and there is a risk of serious damage. In the end you may just put a lot of effort into it and be a little disappointed with the final result. But maybe not, it's up to you. Whatever your decision is - good luck!
EDIT: To be more specific I'll give you the real life example of touch-up. I had an awful, long and deep scratch on the back of my LCD (you can see that black, metal part when you slide out the keyboard). I took the masking tape and precisely shaped it in a way that only the scratch was visible (I'd say less than 0,5 of mm wide). Then I took a black paint (originally for my mother's renault) and painted the scratch. Aftrer half an hour I removed the masking tape. The repair is not perfect in any way, the scratch is still there if you know where to look. But I just never noticed it again and simply forgot about it until today.
I used a touch up pen from Staples that has metallic ink. It was a Silver Pilot Pen with Fine Point tip. Like pjm said, touch up paint isn't going to make it look perfect, but the scuffs on the chrome bezel are less noticeable. The ink is a little lighter than the chrome but makes the black cuffs disappear and is nice because you can get small marks with the fine point. I think it was $2.99.
Hi,
I recently purchased a HD2 on eBay. It was supposed to come immaculate but unfortunately there are dents on almost all corners. Rest if perfect.
I saw on eBay some chinese sellers selling new housing + battery covers for ~25 USD. So why not replacing the housing then? I decided to give it a try.
Well I have to say that it really did not work like in the videos I saw on youtube. I removed the 4 screws under the battery cover, gently pressed the back of the LCM outward but it really refused to pop out (no even half an inch). I discarded the pry tool (a very thine credit card actually) and even tried using a suction cup on the digitizer to pull it backwards but same problem. It's like the LCM/chassis was glued on the bezel. Phone has never been disassembled before (white sticker and void screw were still both there).
This is strange because in all the videos I saw the LCM/middle chassis was clearly not glued on the bezel. It immediately popped out a bit then you could start prying (and praying!). Ok I know that in those videos usually the phone has already been disassembled before so other attempts require less force to do it again for the recording.
My questions now to all the people who managed to do this. Did this require so much force? Is there a change and is HTC now glueing this part the LCM/middle chassis to the bezel? Any suggestion? Where is for you the best place to insert the pry tool when you start?
Thanks and regards,
Try flexing the plastic bezel above the earphone outwards a little while applying slight pressure to the sticker area on the back. There're two notches above which locks the frame to the pcb.
Hi,
Thanks for your help.
I will try that later.
I guess I might need to find a better pry tool.
BR.
Ok I managed to do it.
This required clearly some force on the pry tool (actually I used two plastic cards : a very thin and flexible one than a credit card). I started the operation above the earphone area.
Applying pressure on the sticker area was stresfull because the LCD immediately reacted to the pressure (hence a risk to break it or damage it). Best was to put two fingers on the sticker area to help the LCM module to pop out but with (almost) no pressure.
I had a doubt and now that I managed to remove the housing it's gone. The antennas (those white stuff you see in both top corners and at the bottom) are glued to the housing.
I prefer to spend a few more bucks to take a housing which has those antennas already in.
BR.
i had a similar frustrating experience to yours in trying to snap the back off the chassis on my hd2 which had a fingerprint on the *inside* of the camera cover glass which i needed to open it to get at.
it sure looks easy in that HTC disassembly video on youtube but the tech there is using a sort of plastic hooked tool for the job, which i didn't have, so i used my thumbnail instead in the same place (the upper left corner, looking at the phone from the front) and it took me a good 20 minutes of applying what seemed like unreasonable pressure to my touchscreen and nearly tearing my nail off to get it to pop out.
those snap-tabs the electronics manufacturers use to hold cases together -- even when they also have screws to do the job -- are one of my all-time pet hates. i usually end up breaking them off.
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
fallenmonk said:
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
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Click to collapse
yep they are white thin bits glued to the top portion of the case. wifi on left and phone on right if i remember. its been quite a while though since i took my old hd2 apart
Now that I know how to do this I will be easier next time.
Yes antennas are glued in the housing so best is to buy a housing which has antennas already in.
Important note : the antenna which is at the bottom of the housing exists in two different versions : EU or US so check with the seller which one he sells.
BR.
Top left : Amphenol-BT&Wifi-090820
Top right : Amphenol-GPS-090820
Bottom : Amphenol-EU-090828
If T-Mobiles US you need Amphenol-US
sirec said:
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't believe it's glued. as far as i can see the the case is held together with screws and plastic interlocking tabs. the trick is to get the latter to unclip.
No glue indeed just notches locking the LCM module to the bezel
Ok case closed
I got my new housing and the replacement went fine. For those who could be interrested I bought it on ebay from the seller forceviewer_uk in China. Everything went perfect so I can recommend this guy.
I've just successfully converted my GSM Razr to a Maxx today and like to share some of the experience...
As basic orientation, the instructional video from CRS is okay, together with the images on Ifixit.com they provide good help, although they fall a bit short at some points.
The following only reflects my own opinion/experience... if you're not as clumsy or cautious as I am - good for you.
Stuff you need to get:
Get the black maxx PCB frame. And get a replacement camera bezel.
T3, T4 and T5 Torx screwdriver. Yes, T4 too, wait till you read why.
For opening up the phone and handling parts, you need these as well:
I needed each one of them and besides the Torx, nothing else was required.
Get a bunch of these for cheap on Ebay. Color or vendor don't matter, they're all made of the same stuff.
The tools you don't need:
iSesamo... don't order it. And don't use it if you get it sent to you nonetheless (like in my case). It's made of metal.
Not only can it easily get you some nasty dents/scratches at the side of the housing, it can, when being handled unfortunately, destroy the electronics on your phone's motherboard... you don't want that.
The spudger.. I don't know, I didn't need it at any point
Here are some additions to the CRS & Ifixit documentations:
I) In CRS' video and on the Ifixit website, you will read that T3 + T5 screwdrivers are required. Unfortunately, they both either made a mistake, or the production process has been altered, because T4 is needed as well; actually, all but 3 (of all those described as T3) were infact T4 torx screws. Imagine my heartbeat when I tried to use a T3 on the screws and it didn't fit
II) I did (negligently) break the camera bezel while removing it. If you don't use a heatgun/dryer to losen the adhesive beneath it, you will almost certainly break it. And that's ok, because a replacement bezel costs 6$, while damaging stuff like the rear camera with too much heat costs almost tenfold.
I honestly can't tell if it is really dangerous to heat up stuff like the camera or not, I just didn't want to risk it.
III) Opening the phone and removing parts is a pain in the ***. You're brest served using...
- The thick long prying tool and the thick plectrum for opening the housing.
- The thick long prying tool to remove the the PCB frame.
- The slim long prying tool for removing the speaker from the old housing without damage (don't use a screwdriver or so)
- The slim long prying tool for removing/replacing the battery pole rubber cover and the mic rubber grommet.
- The slim plectrum to slide it under the battery and losen it before even thinking about pulling the "battery removal" grip.
- The slim plectrum or the slim prying tool for losening sensitive parts of the housing (e.g. sim door)
Generally, opening/removing parts is a hassle but if you take your time and exercise medium caution, you won't damage anything of value.
IV) CRS delivers (or at least did in my case) only 1 piece of double sided adhesive to stick the back side of the new battery, while the original battery has adhesive on BOTH sides.
V) Test run your device after you inserted the new battery (and secured its screws). If everything runs ok, then proceed to snap on the black housing frame and the back cover.
VI) Make sure the housing frame and back cover snap on tightly (=correctly) at every single spot, ESPECIALLY at the SIM card door.
I recommend starting to snap on the back cover exactly at that spot, making sure that the thin lower frame part of the SIM card door snaps on tightly. If you mess up that spot, you might be unable to correct it without re-removing the entire back door.
That should be sufficient for now...
Oh BTW:
The back door cover delivered by CRS has a fat "4G Verizon" writing on it. Live with it -.-