Here is a Link to My tear down photos of the Galaxy S Wifi 5
Cheers
http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t390/Patrick_J73/
Porn for Geeks XD
fantomv50 said:
Here is a Link to My tear down photos of the Galaxy S Wifi 5
Cheers
http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t390/Patrick_J73/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks - were you able to detach the battery?? I'm curious if the battery can be replaced!
murph5525 said:
Thanks - were you able to detach the battery?? I'm curious if the battery can be replaced!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the Battery does detach. I have updated the picture to show the connector for the battery....
Thanks for pic. Battery is very long .
l3oatsu said:
Thanks for pic. Battery is very long .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah I was hoping for a battery like in the Galaxy Note, or any Galaxy come to think of it. Same power as to note @ 2500..
fantomv50 said:
Yes the Battery does detach. I have updated the picture to show the connector for the battery....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome!
Two questions if i may:
Is the 5.0 Wifi the exact same as the 5.0 US version?
It looks like the connector snaps onto the motherboard. How does it connect to the battery - is there hooks or straight solder??
murph5525 said:
Awesome!
Two questions if i may:
Is the 5.0 Wifi the exact same as the 5.0 US version?
It looks like the connector snaps onto the motherboard. How does it connect to the battery - is there hooks or straight solder??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure about both question. Did not take much notice to be honest.
I have never seen tge us version so again not sure.
Is there any tricks or tools needed to pry open the back cover?
I've done the same to mine. You need to remove the two small screws by the micro-usb port, then use a safe pry tool to pry open the case.
I have a US Version, and my battery was hooked on, but easy to remove. As far as I know the battery is uniquely shaped on this device, but i have yet to see a galaxy note battery for myself.
BXWolf92 said:
I've done the same to mine. You need to remove the two small screws by the micro-usb port, then use a safe pry tool to pry open the case.
I have a US Version, and my battery was hooked on, but easy to remove. As far as I know the battery is uniquely shaped on this device, but i have yet to see a galaxy note battery for myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the additional info!
BXWolf92 said:
I've done the same to mine. You need to remove the two small screws by the micro-usb port, then use a safe pry tool to pry open the case.
I have a US Version, and my battery was hooked on, but easy to remove. As far as I know the battery is uniquely shaped on this device, but i have yet to see a galaxy note battery for myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's 3 screws. Two by the USB under little white stickers, and one under the SD card door.
The battery is replaceable, it has a rectangular snappy connector onto the main board. Not soldered, just pull (carefully) to detach.
exodus454 said:
The battery is replaceable, it has a rectangular snappy connector onto the main board. Not soldered, just pull (carefully) to detach.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello
It looked that way from the provided images but my inquiry was about how the connector ribbon attaches to the battery? Or would a replacement battery come with a new connector ribbon already attached??
Related
On my XDA Mini S it is loose. Does it simply have to be soldered back on?
Thanks
the803 said:
On my XDA Mini S it is loose. Does it simply have to be soldered back on?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
depends on what is loose: the four legs that hold the port to the PCB or the 5pins that are responsible for the communication lines (and charging)
But if its any of those, is it still repairable?
the803 said:
But if its any of those, is it still repairable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it is. In fact there is a dedicated thread to this issue where i gave some tips.
i've managed to recover one wizard that had the port complete removed after a fall. The four legs were easy but the big problem was the other five contacts since they're really small and are hidden underneath the port. Long story short i had bypass the circuit by soldering a couple of copper wires directly from the port contacts to the resistors in the PCB
read my thread posted in my siggy...it gives great tips.
Hi,
I have disassembled my Folio 100.
Here are the pictures of the internal:
http://www.makhutov.org/downloads/folio100/pix
DerArtem said:
Hi,
I have disassembled my Folio 100.
Here are the pictures of the internal:
h t t p :// w w w. makhutov.org/downloads/folio100/pix
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But, why?!
Is there a simcard slot inside? Im wondering if our Folio is hardware, or software limited to use a simcard.
Regards
statsminister said:
But, why?!
Is there a simcard slot inside? Im wondering if our Folio is hardware, or software limited to use a simcard.
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is just a place on the PCB for a sim-card slot and also a mini-pcie connector for a mini-pcie datacard, but the parts are not soldered to it.
I don't know if it is possible just to solder the connectors to make it work...
moved to device specific sub-forum on OP request
Best, DK
DerArtem said:
There is just a place on the PCB for a sim-card slot and also a mini-pcie connector for a mini-pcie datacard, but the parts are not soldered to it.
I don't know if it is possible just to solder the connectors to make it work...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interessting, do you think it would be possible to mount the LCD upside down? Because i think viewing angles would be better then (like holding the Folio upside down)?
Where's the RAM memory slot?
bastospn said:
Where's the RAM memory slot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The RAM is soldered directly on the PCB next to the CPU. You can see it for example on picture BILD2363.JPG. On the other side of the PCB (Picture BILD2387.JPG) is space to solder additional RAM chips.
Nemo0815 said:
Interessting, do you think it would be possible to mount the LCD upside down? Because i think viewing angles would be better then (like holding the Folio upside down)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if the LCD cables are long enough. But even if so you must then adjust the software. Otherwise the picture will also always be upside down. The better way would be to replace the LCD completely with a different one.
it´s posible to change the camera??
The one think i will change is the LCD and possible add some ram! I don't think it will work though.
Regards,
Bastospn
bastospn said:
The one think i will change is the LCD and possible add some ram! I don't think it will work though.
Regards,
Bastospn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that adding RAM is possible. There might be not all parts soldered to be able to solder additional RAM. Even if so soldering so small pins is really hard.....
fenixxx said:
it´s posible to change the camera??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This should be possible. It looks like it is a standard USB UVC webcam. But you will also have to adjust the software in order to get the new webcam working.
Do you have some images of the connector of the LCD controller? Also, the Touch panel and LCD should be separated, right? (Can't see that on your pictures)
Nemo0815 said:
Do you have some images of the connector of the LCD controller? Also, the Touch panel and LCD should be separated, right? (Can't see that on your pictures)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not done a dedicated photo of the connector but you can see it on BILD2355. The brown "box" is the touch screen controller and the cable below is for the LCD. It looks like a LVDS interface.
I think it's a great idea to dismount the device. I'd actually dismount the back cover to see the battery and the sim card slot.
I'll post pictures of it later.
Doumaster said:
I think it's a great idea to dismount the device. I'd actually dismount the back cover to see the battery and the sim card slot.
I'll post pictures of it later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... (rofl)
Hi DerArtem
Is you device still working after you opened it and made all these pictures?
I did them same so my Folio 100 to see what's inside, but after assembling it again, the display didsn't work anymore. The device still boots up, I can use it on an external TV (via HDMI) and also the touch screen still works, it just doesn't display anything anymore. Any idea what this could be (and if I could get it repaired somewhere)?
regards,
Mark (NL)
Sure you connect everythink in place? I don't see how it could be broken if you just open the plastic case and remove same screws.
bastospn said:
Sure you connect everythink in place? I don't see how it could be broken if you just open the plastic case and remove same screws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am afraid that one of the cables that connecto the display with the mainboard was jammed and maybe damaged. It could also be the FFC-cable which has been under some stress (not the cable itself, but the side that entered the connector).
The screen is being connected to the mainboard by 3 cables. A round cable with a board-to-board connector (I'm afraid one of the wires of this one has been damaged), a small FPC connector (flexible PCB) connected with FPC-connector (this one is ok) and a FFC(foil) cable, where I saw that the copper on the edge was damaged. I cut of 1mm of the cable to let the connector grip a little further on the cable, but this didn't help.
So... either the electronics on the display is damaged, but I think it probably is one of the cables connecting the display with the PCB.
Just hope I can get it to work again...
Try to re-fit the cables, if it doesn't work pull the cables one by one and test it against a multimeter. Be carefull not to damage it even further.
Allways connect yourselt to the ground (touch a piece o metal will do the trick ) to avoid static discharges on components.
You can try to send it back to Toshiba, but I am not sure it they will aceppted under guaranty.
If you don't have spares it could be real hard to do troubleshooting. Toshiba (and other manufactures too) will replace the entire parts suspected to be faulty and will charge for it, so if you could do it on your own you will save some bucks.
Good luck!
Just wondering has anyone tried/thought about the feasibility of modding a Palm Pre touchstone charger for use in an atrix? would it be extremely difficult to do so?
thantos said:
Just wondering has anyone tried/thought about the feasibility of modding a Palm Pre touchstone charger for use in an atrix? would it be extremely difficult to do so?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As per post on engadget it's not so complicated
thantos said:
Just wondering has anyone tried/thought about the feasibility of modding a Palm Pre touchstone charger for use in an atrix? would it be extremely difficult to do so?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
xboxexpert posted a tutorial for this on a nook color here . Looks easy enough and the same method should apply.
Hmmm.. interesting.. only wished someone would have tried previously to know if it'd fit inside the battery cover...
After looking at the iFixIt teardown for the Atrix I'm not thinking this would be a straight forward process.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/2
Boards aren't my strong point but it looks as though the +/- may be under the usb connector housing.
mtnecho said:
After looking at the iFixIt teardown for the Atrix I'm not thinking this would be a straight forward process.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/2
Boards aren't my strong point but it looks as though the +/- may be under the usb connector housing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Need a better shot, but it looks like you can still hit the resistor between the two ground posts. Going to need some thin wire though.
I am curious to know if anyone will attempt this.
vmiku914 said:
I am curious to know if anyone will attempt this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't think I'm going to sacrifice my Atrix to the hardware mod gods. Enjoying it too much and not terribly interested in dropping the money to replace it if it doesn't work out.
I don't know if I will be doing the mod, but these are some of the tips I would follow if i decided to. If I do it I'll post pictures..
1st:
Be sure to use the Palm Pixi's back cover with the smaller circuit board - this one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2nd:
You might wanna consider buying this case since its thicker and you can dig a little bit if the circuit doesn't fit the standard battery door.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3rd:
In many phones the metal that keeps the memory card in place is the ground (-).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
4th:
I'm sure there's an easy (+) pin you can solder to - so far i haven't found one, but many people cut a usb plug to fit inside the usb female socket and route the cables somehow (Watch the first video below). You have to remove the cut usb in order to use it with computer, also its quite ugly. The best, but very hard way is to solder the (+) wire directly to where the usb socket is soldered to the phone's circuit board .This I'll leave to a jewelry craftsman, I know, with lots of experience. MAKE SHURE YOU KNOW WHICH PIN IS THE POSITIVE!!! For polarity of the palm pixi's circuit boat refer to the first picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know its a bit difficult, but... that's the way it is.
Useful links:
Galaxy S Mod.
First HD2 Mod.
Same mod but with extended battery (Not good looking)
You have probably seen this.
A lot of people forget to do this.
YOU ARE WELCOME!!!
I bought some of the pixi components and will try this out without the requirement of soldering.. I've been thinking.. is there any way to use the leads from the battery as the connection point as opposed to soldering directly to the port? Or is there a voltage regulator that I'd have to go through first...
First, you should try if it's really charging Atrix (batt's percentage going up), because it needs more current than standart phone.
But i'm thinking of modyfing my own, but with less invasive method
I wouldn't take apart my atrix again. I may have killed my first one getting my screen out. Those ribbon cables are a pain, and well, you might not need to remove the flex cables (the black flat ones), but if you do, you are most times pulling up the temp sensor too, and that thing never goes back!!
Just make sure you are good at what you do
Why not solder the the inductive piece to a chunk of mini usb cable first ? Completely non invasive and you'll be able to prove it works before you solder to the phone.
That was what I was considering. Unfortunate that the variances for the attrix are so tight.
mobileweasel said:
Why not solder the the inductive piece to a chunk of mini usb cable first ? Completely non invasive and you'll be able to prove it works before you solder to the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're going to do that, you may as well just buy one that's already made.
I meant to do that as proof of concept. If it charger, take it apart and hide it under the battery cover.
Does anyone tried the Palm inductive charger with Atrix? Does it really work?
I just got mine in - will try it soon.
Let me ask you guys this...
1) Whats the point of all this?
Really? What is the point? The cool form factor? Bragging rights? It seems like
a big inconvenience for me, especially when you will need to take your charger somewhere.
Anyways, seems like a lot of work for just the convenience of not plugging in a mini usb cable.
Anyways, good luck and I hope you guys have fun
Perhaps you are right about it.
But whats the point in buying a lapdock or media dock when you can just get a laptop? What's the point in rooting or unlocking your phone? You could easily just leave it stock and most of the functions will work just fine.
Call it a hobby or challenge or a convenience or whatever. I made this thread merely asking for technical help. Not snide commentary that is counter productive.
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
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Click to collapse
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
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I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9
I can't take it anymore... I use the usb port too much so I ripped off the cover... Besides, the rubber ring is already coming off the flap as expected... Magnetic charging sucks and even then i use the usb to transfer... Can't do that with the magnet charging connection...
vipfreak said:
I can't take it anymore... I use the usb port too much so I ripped off the cover... Besides, the rubber ring is already coming off the flap as expected... Magnetic charging sucks and even then i use the usb to transfer... Can't do that with the magnet charging connection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine literally jumped off the flap one day... No real reason... Been avoiding water ever since
There are two rules in life for being successful:
1. Never reveal everything you know;
2.
egzthunder1 said:
Mine literally jumped off the flap one day... No real reason... Been avoiding water ever since
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The more I used it the more it pulled the rubber away from the flap making it harder to close. I knew this would happen and why waterproofing is a nice ide, but not ideal at least in this execution... I've never had to worry about water getting to my devices because I'm that careful with them so It's not really an issue for me. #knockonwood
vipfreak said:
The more I used it the more it pulled the rubber away from the flap making it harder to close. I knew this would happen and why waterproofing is a nice ide, but not ideal at least in this execution... I've never had to worry about water getting to my devices because I'm that careful with them so It's not really an issue for me. #knockonwood
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You can buy new flaps for the ZU
I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.
blueether said:
You can buy new flaps for the ZU
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you seen instructions to install them?
There are two rules in life for being successful:
1. Never reveal everything you know;
2.
I lost my ZU's USB rubber seal after 6 months. Got it replaced under warranty.
Now I charge my phone just once a day and transfer files over Wi-Fi (or just before/after I charge my phone) to avoid opening/closing the USB port a lot.
I also keep the rubber seal area clean with nano cleaner. Its been 6 months since I got replacement and the seal looks fine. You have to take care of it. I have never clicked any underwater photos thou. But its easier to clean the phone directly under the tap. :good:
Go eBay and get a magnetic cable.
ipainter said:
Go eBay and get a magnetic cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a good option and if you think you need to use the USB cable to transfer stuff and it is the only way, you could use one of the many transfer and sync programs that use WiFi to send files (es file explorer does a fine job and even wireless adb would do the trick).
There are two rules in life for being successful:
1. Never reveal everything you know;
2.
ipainter said:
Go eBay and get a magnetic cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Second this. I wouldn't need to use microUSB unless I need to ADB
I have a magnet charging adapter and a cradle... 3 problems with this though... 1. The magnet sucks (tried to go for the strongest one) and if you touch it slightly it stops charging.
2. The magnet must be attached one way only no flipping it.
3. I have an over head holder and the magnet options will not work because of this or the previous reasons I mentioned above. I gladly take any other suggestions though.
Oh and wireless transfer s are painfully @#&$ing slow... I've either been taking the sd card out or using an extra sd card for later transfer. Why is this an issue? I transfer THAT much video content more than once throughout the day... (no... It's not porn...)