Didn't wanna hijack someone else's thread so here you go.
This is what I've done so far for preventative measure. Basically I put a 1-2mm rubber sticker on the top and bottom of the slot so the card reader is more flushed making it harder to push it out. If I press really really hard then yes it will eject but for the most part pressing even with more than normal pressure doesnt eject the card. Again only if I press to a point where my finger is hurting then itll pop put.
Left over from d-link router rubber feet sticker.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Inserted half of it just enough so its secure.
Other half is folded outside. I ended up cutting a slit where it folds so it stays folded
I cut a smaller strip for the bottom. (tablets is face down so it looks like its top)
Tested it after I was done. It did pop out once but you can see how hard I'm pressing.
Not a bad idea! If I can find what I did with those rubber inserts for the keyboard dock I may fix this a try.
I'm curious how this compares to the dummy card on removal. With the dummy card I can pull out my pocket knife, slide the wedge out, and remove as normal.
ickkii said:
Not a bad idea! If I can find what I did with those rubber inserts for the keyboard dock I may fix this a try.
I'm curious how this compares to the dummy card on removal. With the dummy card I can pull out my pocket knife, slide the wedge out, and remove as normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I really push on it or use my nail it pops out. I wouldve like the rubbers to be thicker though so the only way to get it out is to push it with like a dime or keys. This just prevents the card from being pushed but obviously its just rubber so itll still compress if you really press hard enough. It doesnt make the hole any tighter like your dummy card mod.
Related
- overall: seems good enough. needs a little fixing.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
- the plate for attaching to the dash (i wont use this ever - dont want to ruin car), the vent holders (they suck.. at least in my car), suction to window
- the green part is where the picture was (you can replace with your own or add that foam pad they supplied (which i did), the red part is where the clear plastic was suppose to be - cover for picture.
- phone w/ silicon case. fits fine. *put the phone in and close the sides to a slightly tight fit. im able to take out the phone and put it in quite easily.
- the red part is the button you press to release the sides (just push the sides in to tighten). the green part is the part the you would want to adjust to your liking and then super glue the hell out of so it wont move. haha im going to do that. (all 4 of them)
-silicon case from ebay if you haven't seen it. fits quite well but not SUPER tight so iono. not really using it yet. only the pouch. i ordered the hard rubber one. and im waiting for the invisible shield (tomorrow)
- on my car... i put it at a really weird angle so it will be low and closer to the dash. the suction is really strong (so far). but toward where the phone is, it will move but not tested while driving yet.. will have to update later.. but from what i can see. if you tighten the phone down (by sides) and tighten everything else. it should be fine even if it moves a bit.
- fits fine like this. works fine ... as i can tell. it kind of does fit landscape mode? but i WOULDNT reccommend it.
*Im using Garmin Mobile XT.. (should have taken pics with it on but oh well) its raining outside and im too lazy to drive around.
anyways... im kind of mad.. i was fixing the sides and what not.. so i had the thing in my room .. and had it on my closest mirror.. and when i went to take it off.. it was stuck so hard .. i broke the handle that releases and tightens the suction cup... i figured out that i can take it apart and still use it but now i cant take it off and put it on easily... oh well.. i dont really care.. ill just put it on my car and leave it there.. no real need to move it anyway.. .. it shouldn't break so easily if your careful but i went at it like it was nothing hahah.. but if you move it a lot.. im sure it will break..
Not specific to the G Tab, but that's what I have so I'm posting it here...
I was nosing around for something distinctive to carry my G Tab and, since I'm a Soldier, I was looking for something in ACU camoflage. I didn't find any tablet cases in ACU, but I spotted something which I have and turned out to work perfectly: the case for an issue 100 oz (3 liter) water bladder.
There are several types of varying sizes and profiles. You want the one that looks like this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
or this:
You'll notice that they have a squared off bottom. The width is perfect for the G Tab and the carrier is already lined with foam. I had a couple of the green type spare, so I used one of those; but the ACU version has PALS webbing (which would let you attach a MOLLE-compatible pouch) as well as a nifty carrying handle.
I slid the G Tab in, made a couple marks and started cutting. I cut away material on the front (where the cap and black material were) and found that left a perfectly-sized flap on the back. I sealed the cut with duct tape and duct taped over the backs of the snaps and grommet to prevent scratches. Then I sewed on a strip of Velcro and reattached one of the existing straps near the top and I was done.
Total construction time was maybe 20 minutes. I spent more time nosing around for the materials. It's ugly, but supremely functional. I may finish the duct taped edge, or I may not.
At any rate, just passing along a source for a cheap, unusual and repurposed G Tab case.
Good innovation. You should take that by someplace that does alterations, and secure that duct taped edge. Is that blue band velcro? If so, and due to the noisy-ness of that signature velcro r-r-r-rip, you might consider snaps to keep the flap in place. While you're there, have them pop on some PALS webbing and a pen sleeve, or two. Sorry, I'm a gear-do...
Seriously, though, that's pretty cool.
Not being one for wanting to hide my Prime away, I did want to be able to protect it if it's loose in a bag. I thought a microfibre cloth would be ideal, so bought a microfibre dog towel from Tesco (40x60cm)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Folded 3 times, stitched along each long end, and along the short end then turned inside out. (I didn't sew it myself, but only because I was too lazy to find my sewing machine in the loft!). Cost - £3.50, plus a meal for the sewing
It's best to err on the side of being slightly tight rather than loose, since the fabric will probably stretch a little in the first few days.
Neoprene from a wetsuit would be even better & what I plan to make as I have made them many times in the past as they absorb more shock & pressure
Nice job
Use the microfiber to line the neoprene
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
I like £3.50 DIY projects! How do you close it? Just by folding it?
Haha! awesome. I did the same DIY several weeks ago but by hand (so looks worse) jejejeje.
The next step would be to use a suede-like fabric, and create a small sleeve that would look tip top.
daerchwing said:
I like £3.50 DIY projects! How do you close it? Just by folding it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. The open end just folds over - it's about 1/2 the length of the prime extra. Long enough to tuck under neatly if it's on a table, and long enough to stay in place in a bag, I hope.
if you want you can spend another like $1 on a fancy button that you can use to close the bag
just an idea
but that looks very nice tho good job!
It looks like a pillow. I would sit on it. Be careful if you leave it on your couch.
So... This came up in a discussion recently, and people find it annoying after a while, so might as well fix it!
Strictly speaking, this shouldn't void your warranty (as the warranty screws in the back are left untouched), however, any1 opening the phone will immediately know that it was oppened.
Let's begin:
1: Using a heat gun/hairdryer heat the edges of the screen (not too much).
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
2: Using a case opener tool get in under the bottom edge of the screen.
3: Once the bottom is lifted work your way around the sides of the screen (reheat as necessary).
4: Apply heat to the top edge of the touchscreen and lift it gently using the top edge as a pivot point.
5: Congrats! Hard part over, the rest is a walk in the park. The following picture shows where most of the light bleeding happens. The bleed that interests us is the one in the lower right corner (or rather lower left in this pic as I'm an idiot as far as camerawork goes).
6: Cut a piece of the material of your choosing apply a bit of double sided adhesive tape and slap it right on top of the light bleed.
7: If you did a perfect job opening the phone you can reuse the factory glue to hold the digitizer in place, however as that is unlikely proceed to removing the stray bits of the old adhesive tape and replace them with new tape (2 thin pieces on the sides, 1 fat piece on the bottom and 2 fat pieces around the flat cable on top)
8: Put the digitizer back in its proper place (slide the top in first and then drop the rest into place) and you're done!
Hope this helps!
Notes:
My cam sux... sorry
My workdesk choice also sux
The reason pics are missing for the gluing stage is that I need to replace the whole digitizer on this phone but the replacement part hasn't arrived yet so i decided not to glue it together as I will have to unglue it again this week.
My Moto360 turned into a paperweight after the wrist band came out from one side. Basically the pin hole where the wristband pin sits got elongated into an open channel, possibly because I tried to keep it strapped on tight so heart rate monitoring would work.
I first tried to fix it by 'building' up the channel area again using an epoxy resin and making a new hole in the drying resin. However this method didn't work - even the hardened epoxy crumbled shortly after the strap insertion.
Second time around, I tried something different. I basically took 2 very small and thin square pieces of plastic and made holes in them using a heated hairpin. I then glued them into place using superglue into either side of where the band connects, to seat the band pin correctly. Unfortunately this threw up a new issue - it made the band (and band pin) slot effectively narrower, so the band with 22 mm pin just wouldn't go in. I corrected for this by switching it out to a 19mm pin (after first unsuccessfully trying 20mm) and shaving off some of the watch band leather holding the pin. But it still wouldn't work, because the holes were probably too 'in' towards the watch body - leading to the watch band pushing against the watch body and pushing out on the pin. While I could seat it if I tried hard, it led to a stiffly connected strap which would obviously fail sooner or later, especially if I tried to flex it at the hinge while taking the watch on and off. Finally solved the problem for good by bending the pin gently into a curved shape, roughly similar to the watch body curvature itself. Working like a breeze now.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This the 2nd gen forum. Try posting in the OG forum https://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-360/help