So... This came up in a discussion recently, and people find it annoying after a while, so might as well fix it!
Strictly speaking, this shouldn't void your warranty (as the warranty screws in the back are left untouched), however, any1 opening the phone will immediately know that it was oppened.
Let's begin:
1: Using a heat gun/hairdryer heat the edges of the screen (not too much).
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2: Using a case opener tool get in under the bottom edge of the screen.
3: Once the bottom is lifted work your way around the sides of the screen (reheat as necessary).
4: Apply heat to the top edge of the touchscreen and lift it gently using the top edge as a pivot point.
5: Congrats! Hard part over, the rest is a walk in the park. The following picture shows where most of the light bleeding happens. The bleed that interests us is the one in the lower right corner (or rather lower left in this pic as I'm an idiot as far as camerawork goes).
6: Cut a piece of the material of your choosing apply a bit of double sided adhesive tape and slap it right on top of the light bleed.
7: If you did a perfect job opening the phone you can reuse the factory glue to hold the digitizer in place, however as that is unlikely proceed to removing the stray bits of the old adhesive tape and replace them with new tape (2 thin pieces on the sides, 1 fat piece on the bottom and 2 fat pieces around the flat cable on top)
8: Put the digitizer back in its proper place (slide the top in first and then drop the rest into place) and you're done!
Hope this helps!
Notes:
My cam sux... sorry
My workdesk choice also sux
The reason pics are missing for the gluing stage is that I need to replace the whole digitizer on this phone but the replacement part hasn't arrived yet so i decided not to glue it together as I will have to unglue it again this week.
Related
Not specific to the G Tab, but that's what I have so I'm posting it here...
I was nosing around for something distinctive to carry my G Tab and, since I'm a Soldier, I was looking for something in ACU camoflage. I didn't find any tablet cases in ACU, but I spotted something which I have and turned out to work perfectly: the case for an issue 100 oz (3 liter) water bladder.
There are several types of varying sizes and profiles. You want the one that looks like this:
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or this:
You'll notice that they have a squared off bottom. The width is perfect for the G Tab and the carrier is already lined with foam. I had a couple of the green type spare, so I used one of those; but the ACU version has PALS webbing (which would let you attach a MOLLE-compatible pouch) as well as a nifty carrying handle.
I slid the G Tab in, made a couple marks and started cutting. I cut away material on the front (where the cap and black material were) and found that left a perfectly-sized flap on the back. I sealed the cut with duct tape and duct taped over the backs of the snaps and grommet to prevent scratches. Then I sewed on a strip of Velcro and reattached one of the existing straps near the top and I was done.
Total construction time was maybe 20 minutes. I spent more time nosing around for the materials. It's ugly, but supremely functional. I may finish the duct taped edge, or I may not.
At any rate, just passing along a source for a cheap, unusual and repurposed G Tab case.
Good innovation. You should take that by someplace that does alterations, and secure that duct taped edge. Is that blue band velcro? If so, and due to the noisy-ness of that signature velcro r-r-r-rip, you might consider snaps to keep the flap in place. While you're there, have them pop on some PALS webbing and a pen sleeve, or two. Sorry, I'm a gear-do...
Seriously, though, that's pretty cool.
Didn't wanna hijack someone else's thread so here you go.
This is what I've done so far for preventative measure. Basically I put a 1-2mm rubber sticker on the top and bottom of the slot so the card reader is more flushed making it harder to push it out. If I press really really hard then yes it will eject but for the most part pressing even with more than normal pressure doesnt eject the card. Again only if I press to a point where my finger is hurting then itll pop put.
Left over from d-link router rubber feet sticker.
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Inserted half of it just enough so its secure.
Other half is folded outside. I ended up cutting a slit where it folds so it stays folded
I cut a smaller strip for the bottom. (tablets is face down so it looks like its top)
Tested it after I was done. It did pop out once but you can see how hard I'm pressing.
Not a bad idea! If I can find what I did with those rubber inserts for the keyboard dock I may fix this a try.
I'm curious how this compares to the dummy card on removal. With the dummy card I can pull out my pocket knife, slide the wedge out, and remove as normal.
ickkii said:
Not a bad idea! If I can find what I did with those rubber inserts for the keyboard dock I may fix this a try.
I'm curious how this compares to the dummy card on removal. With the dummy card I can pull out my pocket knife, slide the wedge out, and remove as normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I really push on it or use my nail it pops out. I wouldve like the rubbers to be thicker though so the only way to get it out is to push it with like a dime or keys. This just prevents the card from being pushed but obviously its just rubber so itll still compress if you really press hard enough. It doesnt make the hole any tighter like your dummy card mod.
supplies : a phillips screwdriver, star screwdriver, snap-off blade cutter, sandpaper, guitar peak or your nail, scotch tape
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they are screwdrivers what I'm using ^_^
1.Loosen a screw.
phillipse 4
star 6
totally, we need to loosen 10 screws. ( I don't know why xperia s use two method lol)
2.Take off back cover.
open HDMI cap, and spread back cover with your nail or kinds of lever.
Then, spread othersides too.
warning!!!
Don't open cover too much.
A cable is connected at back cover and main body.
It is!
It's simply connected, so just lift little bit with guitar peak.
And then, separating finish!
3.Cutting back cover
modification changable battery is very very very simple
because,
1. seperate back cover, cut. finish
2.main body is safe and we will play with back cover that can play little roughly.
Let's cut~
first, remove insulating tape
if you think removing insulating tape is not good, you can cut little under of them
I think there is no problem.
You can do fast if you scrape edge of them with guitar peak or snap-off blade cutter
removing insulating tape finish!
now, cut red line.
I barely did with heating snap-off blade cutter with lighter + mother's help.
Wow! finish! let's use........OMG it gets stuck
because I just cut 1 line....
someone cut 2 line
but, I use sand paper.
I can see my effort that I did lol
Yeah, cutting is finish. now, assemble![beforehand, remove battery first]
(My picture is already assembled....)
assembling is
connecting cable of back cover,
inserting back cover to main body,
tighten screw.
4.Make that battery's seperation is easy.
If you see youtube that I link at down of this post, He make that battery's seperation is easy.
We can also make that!
Use our last supplies, scotch tape.
Get take pull it and attach each of two sides(level of difficulty : difficult lol)
Then you can get smooth-faced tape....board?(I can choose english word @[email protected];
Attach it at battery.
★☆★☆★☆★☆FINISH☆★☆★☆★☆★
My english is poor ~_~
NOW, there is no weakness of XPERIA S!!!!
I'm so happy~
I want you modify like that lol
It is so comfortable.
and modification back cover is not difficult.
so.........
goodbye.
OPPA GANGNAM STYLE!
reference video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGxWHzqPsQc&feature=related&hd=1
who helps me : poby
recommend link of battery :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/27096568412...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
## I'm sorry but I can't answer question ^^
Photograph by Kkobuk (Camera: NIKON COOLPIX P100)
kkobuk's blog http://88turtle.tistory.com/
but whats the point of doing this?
....
It is so that you can have a removable battery I think.
Sent from my LT22i using xda app-developers app
I got my hands on a S3(i9300), it is in a perfect condition but there is this bubble like thing right in the middle of the screen. Touch screen works fine but even the gentlest tap on the screen makes the bubble bigger. And if I pull the battery and push from behind it gets smaller or if I bend the phone in a certain way a little sometimes it diseappears completely. I believe the glass touches the panel or something.
And the other day while trying to clean the screen, I sprayed a bit more cleaner than usual and it got in and started to interfere with the touches and left kinda marks under the glass. Touchscreen is working fine again but it is really annoying me. Is there a way to get rid of this ? Any help would be appreciated.
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This is as small as it gets, but as I said earlier slight pressure makes it bigger again.
Sounds like there is a crack in the glass which allowed the cleaner to seep in between the glass and lcd.
You'll have to have the glass removed, clean the lcd, and replaced with new glass.
audit13 said:
Sounds like there is a crack in the glass which allowed the cleaner to seep in between the glass and lcd.
You'll have to have the glass removed, clean the lcd, and replaced with new glass.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought one of those suction cups and stuck it to the screen and pulled it, the glass came off a little bit from the left side and the bubble like thing disappeared now but it appears the glass is not very well glued. Some dust entered but it is better than having a huge black spot in the middle. Now I wanna get rid of the marks cleaner left under the glass.
Would it work if I removed the glass, clean it and the LCD and use the same glass again?
It might but you would still need a way to prevent dust from getting back in. I'm not sure about the s3 but the glass may need to be bonded to the LCD with uv glue to prevent this from happening again.
Hey, how many of these little guys stay up and working?
Today I've opened my carp (42 mm edition) to look at the ports, just to look at the possibility of connecting it via USB for modding, root, flashing ROMs, etc. (so bad there's almost no scene on this device series ) when suddenly a crazy idea just crossed my mind: Why don't try to expose the guts of this old, used (and abused) watch, like those expensive skeleton watches?
So I've inspected carefully the back glass cover and noticed that there was a gluey sticker between the glass and the device itself. After removing the sticker, the glass is exposed and ready for some abuse.
The sticker:
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The next step was to find a way to remove the paint without damaging the glass itself, so I've taken a knife and tried, with success, to gently scratch the paint. TBH, I'm very surprised of the scratching resistance of that glass piece, because you can give it some serious abuse (like fast, hard scratching) without leaving marks on it, so if you try to do this mod you don't need to worry too much about damaging it, just don't apply too much strength and pressure to avoid deep scratches or breaking the glass (if you hold it on your hand or on top of a soft, non-hard surface).
After about 30-40 minutes of scratching paint, I've cleaned the glass with my breath and a cloth, applied some thin double-side tape (aka. smartphone tape, very useful when repairing stuff like that) to fix the glass on place and did the same for the outer plastic ring. Now, here's the result:
As you can see below, the text remains intact, I suppose that is printed deeper inside the glass or something:
Looks pretty nice if you like the look of the bare naked electronics. Aside from that, I feel sorry for that disturbing off-center white ring (I guess it has moved a bit when I've put the glass back on the watch) and that wire that separated from the charging coil when I oppened the watch. Maybe I'll fix it one day. Cheers.
EDIT: I've done a WatchMaker watchface matching the skeleton style of my back cover. Here's a picture, I've attached the .watch file for anyone to use it:
Very nice mod! Will be replacing the battery on my 42mm soon and will have to give this a go.