supplies : a phillips screwdriver, star screwdriver, snap-off blade cutter, sandpaper, guitar peak or your nail, scotch tape
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they are screwdrivers what I'm using ^_^
1.Loosen a screw.
phillipse 4
star 6
totally, we need to loosen 10 screws. ( I don't know why xperia s use two method lol)
2.Take off back cover.
open HDMI cap, and spread back cover with your nail or kinds of lever.
Then, spread othersides too.
warning!!!
Don't open cover too much.
A cable is connected at back cover and main body.
It is!
It's simply connected, so just lift little bit with guitar peak.
And then, separating finish!
3.Cutting back cover
modification changable battery is very very very simple
because,
1. seperate back cover, cut. finish
2.main body is safe and we will play with back cover that can play little roughly.
Let's cut~
first, remove insulating tape
if you think removing insulating tape is not good, you can cut little under of them
I think there is no problem.
You can do fast if you scrape edge of them with guitar peak or snap-off blade cutter
removing insulating tape finish!
now, cut red line.
I barely did with heating snap-off blade cutter with lighter + mother's help.
Wow! finish! let's use........OMG it gets stuck
because I just cut 1 line....
someone cut 2 line
but, I use sand paper.
I can see my effort that I did lol
Yeah, cutting is finish. now, assemble![beforehand, remove battery first]
(My picture is already assembled....)
assembling is
connecting cable of back cover,
inserting back cover to main body,
tighten screw.
4.Make that battery's seperation is easy.
If you see youtube that I link at down of this post, He make that battery's seperation is easy.
We can also make that!
Use our last supplies, scotch tape.
Get take pull it and attach each of two sides(level of difficulty : difficult lol)
Then you can get smooth-faced tape....board?(I can choose english word @[email protected];
Attach it at battery.
★☆★☆★☆★☆FINISH☆★☆★☆★☆★
My english is poor ~_~
NOW, there is no weakness of XPERIA S!!!!
I'm so happy~
I want you modify like that lol
It is so comfortable.
and modification back cover is not difficult.
so.........
goodbye.
OPPA GANGNAM STYLE!
reference video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGxWHzqPsQc&feature=related&hd=1
who helps me : poby
recommend link of battery :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/27096568412...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
## I'm sorry but I can't answer question ^^
Photograph by Kkobuk (Camera: NIKON COOLPIX P100)
kkobuk's blog http://88turtle.tistory.com/
but whats the point of doing this?
....
It is so that you can have a removable battery I think.
Sent from my LT22i using xda app-developers app
Related
Not specific to the G Tab, but that's what I have so I'm posting it here...
I was nosing around for something distinctive to carry my G Tab and, since I'm a Soldier, I was looking for something in ACU camoflage. I didn't find any tablet cases in ACU, but I spotted something which I have and turned out to work perfectly: the case for an issue 100 oz (3 liter) water bladder.
There are several types of varying sizes and profiles. You want the one that looks like this:
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or this:
You'll notice that they have a squared off bottom. The width is perfect for the G Tab and the carrier is already lined with foam. I had a couple of the green type spare, so I used one of those; but the ACU version has PALS webbing (which would let you attach a MOLLE-compatible pouch) as well as a nifty carrying handle.
I slid the G Tab in, made a couple marks and started cutting. I cut away material on the front (where the cap and black material were) and found that left a perfectly-sized flap on the back. I sealed the cut with duct tape and duct taped over the backs of the snaps and grommet to prevent scratches. Then I sewed on a strip of Velcro and reattached one of the existing straps near the top and I was done.
Total construction time was maybe 20 minutes. I spent more time nosing around for the materials. It's ugly, but supremely functional. I may finish the duct taped edge, or I may not.
At any rate, just passing along a source for a cheap, unusual and repurposed G Tab case.
Good innovation. You should take that by someplace that does alterations, and secure that duct taped edge. Is that blue band velcro? If so, and due to the noisy-ness of that signature velcro r-r-r-rip, you might consider snaps to keep the flap in place. While you're there, have them pop on some PALS webbing and a pen sleeve, or two. Sorry, I'm a gear-do...
Seriously, though, that's pretty cool.
So... This came up in a discussion recently, and people find it annoying after a while, so might as well fix it!
Strictly speaking, this shouldn't void your warranty (as the warranty screws in the back are left untouched), however, any1 opening the phone will immediately know that it was oppened.
Let's begin:
1: Using a heat gun/hairdryer heat the edges of the screen (not too much).
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2: Using a case opener tool get in under the bottom edge of the screen.
3: Once the bottom is lifted work your way around the sides of the screen (reheat as necessary).
4: Apply heat to the top edge of the touchscreen and lift it gently using the top edge as a pivot point.
5: Congrats! Hard part over, the rest is a walk in the park. The following picture shows where most of the light bleeding happens. The bleed that interests us is the one in the lower right corner (or rather lower left in this pic as I'm an idiot as far as camerawork goes).
6: Cut a piece of the material of your choosing apply a bit of double sided adhesive tape and slap it right on top of the light bleed.
7: If you did a perfect job opening the phone you can reuse the factory glue to hold the digitizer in place, however as that is unlikely proceed to removing the stray bits of the old adhesive tape and replace them with new tape (2 thin pieces on the sides, 1 fat piece on the bottom and 2 fat pieces around the flat cable on top)
8: Put the digitizer back in its proper place (slide the top in first and then drop the rest into place) and you're done!
Hope this helps!
Notes:
My cam sux... sorry
My workdesk choice also sux
The reason pics are missing for the gluing stage is that I need to replace the whole digitizer on this phone but the replacement part hasn't arrived yet so i decided not to glue it together as I will have to unglue it again this week.
Measure your phone's width and height (or look it up).
Assemble 1/4 inch hardwood sticks to match your phone's 2 dimensional size.
Buy a sheet of 1/8 inch polycarbonate scrap (Tap Plastics in US)
Cut the sheet into a fat cross shape.
Apply double-sided tape to the hardwood sticks and adhere it to the poly. Align the center of the cross towards the bottom of the phone.
Use a heat gun to soften the poly and pull it/push it around the sticks. Use as little heat and as much force as possible because bubbles form around 260C.
Cut the bottom and sides so that the poly curls slightly over the sticks.
Cut the top so that it's flush with the top of the sticks. This is the release latch.
Break the sticks out and remove remains of the tape.
Bend down the top piece of plastic and begin to slide your phone into the case.
Note where the phone touches the poly sides first. Grind/cut away the inside of those edges to make insertion easier.
Grind/sand the center of the poly top side so that it doesn't catch on the cameras when the phone is inserted.
Scrub the holder thoroughly under water with a brush to remove any grit.
Insert the phone and note any adjustments needed. Mark on the poly where the USB and speaker ports are.
Remove the phone and finish all grinding/cutting to improve the shape.
If needed, adjust sides with a heat gun to be looser or tighter
Cut a hole in the bottom poly side for the USB port.
Drill a small hole in the bottom poly side for the speaker port.
Use a special epoxy for plastic to bond the holder to a bicycle clamp.
Scrub the holder thoroughly under water with a brush to remove any grit.
Add thin adhesive felt along the back to reduce vibration.
That's it. Done in a day.
Upload some pictures!
wormeyman said:
Upload some pictures!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's a test build:
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The side plastic grips are touching the front glass and I'm worried about dirt causing scratches there. I think I'll try again and take photos of the progress. One mistake I made on the first try was starting with too small a piece of plastic that was difficult to work with. It takes a lot of force to bend the plastic without heating it to the point where it bubbles, and I didn't have enough to grab hold of.
I used to make these by encasing my phone in plastic bags and soft copper sheet metal, wrapping it with fiberglass, vacuum sealing, then carefully cutting the phone out. It makes for a beautiful fit that weighs almost nothing. On the down side, fiberglass and epoxy are messy as hell and I was terrified of destroying my phone. Bending polycarbonate over sticks is a lot less stressful.
I've had my 360 sport for a couple of years now and the band started to break. I fixed it with silicone but it only lasted about two weeks before breaking again. I decided to look for replacements but could not find any satisfactory way of replacing the bands. Since the watch was old and pretty unusable with the wristband broken I decided to try my own method and not be to careful about it...
I cut the bands and glued on lugs that were originally for a Samsung gear S3 (bought from Ali Express for ~$2) onto the watch. It actually worked great and now I can use whatever 22mm straps I want to! Here follows a more detailed description of what I did.
Materials used:
Razor blade, two-part epoxy glue, replacement lugs, replacement bands, small screwdriver (to remove excess parts from the lugs).
Price for entire replacement, lugs, epoxy and new wristband, was about 100 Swedish krona which is about $11.5 at the time of writing.
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Power of the watch
Cut the watchbands close to the watch body
Using the lugs for measurement, cut the watchbands as close as you need to the watch body. (Warning: I carved so close that I carved into some metal, I'm not sure what it is for but my watch works so I gathered ether it was unimportant or I didn't cut deep enough to actually damage anything.)
Ad a bit of epoxy on the lugs and attach them in the correct position on the watch body, I used some tape to secure them while the epoxy dried.
After the first dab of epoxy dried (~10 minutes) I went back and added plenty of epoxy to the gap between the lugs and the watch body. I did this both to secure it more tightly and also to make sure the watch was still waterproof (or at least as waterproof as I could get it).
As my watch was an unattractive orange I used a permanent marker to paint it black with ok results...
Then I was done! The procedure was relatively simple and took about an hour maybe. I would say that the result looks good if your not closer then approximately one foot... The alternative is of course to 3D print a shell for the watch body but I found that ugly and I did not want to make it even more bulky. Overall I think this is a better way of replacing a broken strap. Thus I conclude with some final pictures, good luck to anyone trying!
This is actually awesome, thanks for posting. I can't seem to find those replacement lugs though. Any chance you still have a link?
Lugs
netzer119 said:
This is actually awesome, thanks for posting. I can't seem to find those replacement lugs though. Any chance you still have a link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
I used these lugs: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pcs-Stainless-Steel-Watch-Band-Connector-Adapter-20mm-For-Samsung-Gear-S2-RM-720/32882034607.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.75.7fa5590aX95YmZ&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10068_319_10059_10884_317_10887_10696_321_322_453_10084_454_10083_10103_10618_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_537_536_10902,searchweb201603_55,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=913f528c-c516-43a9-835e-ffc649f36426-10&algo_pvid=913f528c-c516-43a9-835e-ffc649f36426&transAbTest=ae803_4
A word of warning though. My battery life is worse now, the watch usually dies when battery hits 30%, not sure if the lug installment caused this but it might have... If i would do it again I would not cut as deep but rather fill in the gaps between lugs and watch with epoxy.
Hope it works out for you!
//Rasmus
I cut nothing, just install lugs adapter.
I have to remove back ring also, so rubber case will fit.
Hey, how many of these little guys stay up and working?
Today I've opened my carp (42 mm edition) to look at the ports, just to look at the possibility of connecting it via USB for modding, root, flashing ROMs, etc. (so bad there's almost no scene on this device series ) when suddenly a crazy idea just crossed my mind: Why don't try to expose the guts of this old, used (and abused) watch, like those expensive skeleton watches?
So I've inspected carefully the back glass cover and noticed that there was a gluey sticker between the glass and the device itself. After removing the sticker, the glass is exposed and ready for some abuse.
The sticker:
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The next step was to find a way to remove the paint without damaging the glass itself, so I've taken a knife and tried, with success, to gently scratch the paint. TBH, I'm very surprised of the scratching resistance of that glass piece, because you can give it some serious abuse (like fast, hard scratching) without leaving marks on it, so if you try to do this mod you don't need to worry too much about damaging it, just don't apply too much strength and pressure to avoid deep scratches or breaking the glass (if you hold it on your hand or on top of a soft, non-hard surface).
After about 30-40 minutes of scratching paint, I've cleaned the glass with my breath and a cloth, applied some thin double-side tape (aka. smartphone tape, very useful when repairing stuff like that) to fix the glass on place and did the same for the outer plastic ring. Now, here's the result:
As you can see below, the text remains intact, I suppose that is printed deeper inside the glass or something:
Looks pretty nice if you like the look of the bare naked electronics. Aside from that, I feel sorry for that disturbing off-center white ring (I guess it has moved a bit when I've put the glass back on the watch) and that wire that separated from the charging coil when I oppened the watch. Maybe I'll fix it one day. Cheers.
EDIT: I've done a WatchMaker watchface matching the skeleton style of my back cover. Here's a picture, I've attached the .watch file for anyone to use it:
Very nice mod! Will be replacing the battery on my 42mm soon and will have to give this a go.