First of all please don't flame me or make fun of me for what i did because i know it was stupid and i shouldn't have done it.
i took apart my prime and when i was separating the tabs i stuck the card i was using to far in and cut one of the ribbons connecting the display. so i either need to know how to completely disassemble the screen assembly and a place to buy the ribbon that i cut or i need a whole ner front assembly which i have yet to find.
I really doubt you'll find a source for the cable. I would look for someone with a "bricked" or broken Prime and try to work a mutually acceptable deal.
Bob
i took the LCD off and the cable that i ripped is actually connecter the very front part so now im just looking for the full front assembly which i still can't find anywhere
unfortunately it will be very tough to find the parts, may have to send in for non warranty RMA and it will cost you. I would estimate about $250-300 judging by what others have said but only RMA can tell you. Which sucks because they won't even begin to estimate until they have the unit in their hands.
talk to one of the people on the forums with units with broken screens and make em an offer
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using XDA Premium HD app
6666 said:
talk to one of the people on the forums with units with broken screens and make em an offer
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using XDA Premium HD app
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that's the part that i need, the broken screen is part of the front assembly. but think im just gonna sell it for parts, anyone know how i could wipe al the data off it without the screen, the tablet itself still works so do you think i could connect it to my computer and wipe it somehow?
cordell507 said:
that's the part that i need, the broken screen is part of the front assembly. but think im just gonna sell it for parts, anyone know how i could wipe al the data off it without the screen, the tablet itself still works so do you think i could connect it to my computer and wipe it somehow?
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Hdmi to your tv and wipe via settings?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
I don't have an HDMI cable so that's out of the question, is their anyway to wipe from fastboot or adb
cordell507 said:
I don't have an HDMI cable so that's out of the question, is their anyway to wipe from fastboot or adb
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Pretty sure you should be able to wipe through ADB, though someone else would have to chime in with the correct commands and parameters. I guess I've just spoiled myself working on electronics, even if I don't have a need I keep as large a variety of cables as I can
That sucks, I'm sorry it happened lol looks brutal. Like everyone's said, it's going to be hard to find parts, but are these things really proprietary? Aside from being the wrong shape/length shouldn't OP be able to find a comparable cable? Then disassemble the LCD from the GG, replace cable, profit?
I mean, it wouldn't be the first time I've seen proprietary ribbon cables, but I figured ASUS would push something somewhat standardized since this is an internal part, unlike the charging cables people aren't going to (usually, again, sorry OP lol) lose or damage the display's ribbon cable and need a new one.
Looks proprietary to me and it looks like it might control the tough screen and display.
You are not suppose the use a card on the bottom or the top, only the sides. Once the sides are the released, the bottom should just come up, and if can be safely lifted.
Anyway, it looks more like you used a knife to open it.
Best you can do, is probably sell the screen to someone who cracked their (will require some careful disassembly), and the main unit for someone who bricked theirs.
Update: Another idea to figure the part number yourself. Then call ASUS, and say you need to that exact part, that would at least cut out their 'handling' fees.
Well. Few options like others said.
1) Buy another prime and set that one aside for parts / Wait several months
until parts start emerging forsale (LCD, bezel) etc. to fix.
2) Buy someone elses broken prime to fix yours.
3) Buy protection. Smash the crap out of it while running it over with car.
Try to claim insurance. / Buy another prime from store and replace parts
with broken and take other back. (Very shaddy.. but i am sure some would
do that on here.. lol)
4) Fix it yourself. Very difficult to buy ribbon cables that would match connections.
5) Hang on wall for Memorabilia. I use to do that with a few hard drives that
broke. lol
Repair the ribbon cable yourself. I've done it once. Will take you a whole weekend to do, but it is possible. Trust me, you will not be able to find the parts to replace your lcd.
i think im just gonna sell it, the ribbon is basically unfixable, you'd say that too if you've seen it, i took apart the LCD and i actually cut much more that 1 ribbon in the LCD so it's useless, anyone have the ADB wipe commands lol
i can access it through ADB but it won't boot into fastboot when i use the command adb reboot fastboot, it just reboots normaly, i can't wipe through adb either because i don't have access to adb shell becuase of some build.prop problem i belive.
bump, can anyone help
Hmmm. Do you have the keyboard?
Honestly, you'd have to have it or the USB adapter so you could have an input other than the touchscreen, and you'd have to cave and acquire a mHDMI cable to hook up to an HDTV. You could just sell it to someone you can trust on XDA to wipe on receipt, I know I'm not interested in other peoples' data. Suppose I'll never get ahead like Google
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using XDA Premium HD via my tethered HTC Vision
i guess i'll just buy the cheapest mHDMI cable i can find, that
I'd pm Gary Key and ask if he can look up the part no.
If that route goes sour, I've fixed ribbons before with conductive ink pens and crazy glue on the bottom.
On the old style ribbons I have bought the cable and the connectors and just made new ones. I don't think you can do that now a days.
You can also look at the connector (maybe with a magnifier) and find where the wire leaves the connector on each end and possibly solder a wire on the board at that point and connect it that way.
scrufy said:
I'd pm Gary Key and ask if he can look up the part no.
If that route goes sour, I've fixed ribbons before with conductive ink pens and crazy glue on the bottom.
On the old style ribbons I have bought the cable and the connectors and just made new ones. I don't think you can do that now a days.
You can also look at the connector (maybe with a magnifier) and find where the wire leaves the connector on each end and possibly solder a wire on the board at that point and connect it that way.
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Exactly ! damn near ANY cable can be fixed !
Related
Right, i'd appreciate any help you guys can give me, especially if it means i don't have to spend money.
My XDA fell about a foot off my bved onto a capeted room, it's fine but now there's a line going straight down the middle of it. then the screen flickers and the whole right of the screen is covered with vertical lines then it goes back to being just the one line in the middle.
Now i'm guessing that a new screen would sort that out instantly but say i didn't have £150.20 lying around, anyone got any suggestions?
Thanks loads guys
small suggestion
my two cents worth:
all LCDs are connected by some sort of ribbon connector to the main board of a unit, my experience with nokia celphones INDICATES that some lines in the LCD do not display due to LOOSE connection between the ribbon connector to the mainboard. Sometimes, we just replace the ribbon and even just push it to the board a little and this seems to solve the problem.
My suggestion to you would be: There is a site that i've seen that sells replacement LCD and glass covers, and its a DO-IT-YOURSELF kit, so get info on how to OPEN your XDA, if youre not fainthearted, then apply a little pressure on the ribbon connection to the mainboard, this may help. OTHERWISE, if you are not a TECHIE, have a service center check that for you, YOU MAY NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THE LCD anyway.
Nice, you wouldn't have te address for the place that sells the screens would you?
Ta
It may be that you have dislodged the cable connecter or the contact connection to the screen, many nokias displayed this same fault and sold millions of screens when all that was needed was either to attend to the connections or remove the elastomer and reverse it, or replace the elastomer. An elastomer is a small rubber block with a row of connecters either side, this is the bridge for the electrical/video lines to the screen. Its worth a look anyway to see if anything obvious has occured.
try searching "Repacement LCD Screens", you might find the shop that sells them, its in a thread here somewehere.
The latest suggestion and mine are almost identical, YES, it may really be the ribbon connector that was PARTIALLY dislodge or looses contact sometime.
Search and ye shall find. hehehe. goood luck. Tell me when you find it and POST the thread here will you, for others with the same problem as you to be helped.
website
OH, heres the website.
http://www.pdasmart.com/pdaphone.htm
thanks, i'm really glad to hear it's probably just the cable, but now the problem is finding the right screwdrivers
lol, seriously i haven't got any screwdrivers the size to open my XDA, and i don't particularly want to send it off to a repair centre, they'd charge me for labour, anyone got any ideas?
You need a t6 torx driver and a flat blade dirver and a small crosshead driver.
Anyone Got a t6 torx driver? because i know i haven't lol. how many people do you reckon would have one?
UPDATE
evening all, just got me T6 screwdriver, i opened my XDA and found what looked like te connector and had a bit of trail and error but it still doesn't completely fix it, any ideas?[/code]
Has anyone replaced the charging port on their rezound? Where did you get the part, and was it a simple takedown and disconnect or was there soldering involved?
TheAtheistReverend said:
Has anyone replaced the charging port on their rezound? Where did you get the part, and was it a simple takedown and disconnect or was there soldering involved?
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It is most likely soldered to the board, which is the easy part. The hard part will be finding the MHL connector to replace it with. A quick google search turns up adapters and etc which you don't need.
I would contact http://www.mhlconsortium.org and see what they say.
The connector is a smt (surface mount) part that will require desoldering of the old part and resoldering of the new part. You will also want to be very careful to not damage the pads on the circuit board when doing this type of rework. These pads can be easily damaged if you don't know what you are doing. Without knowing the exact part number, it is had to say where to buy this part but places like http://www.digikey.com/?curr=USD sell components like this.
Thanks for the replies, I was considering picking up a pair of rezounds one with a bad screen and one with a bad charging port for cheap. They're for sale together for just over 120 on craigslist. I was going to swap the charging port but I don't think I'm up for that challenge if it is soldered to the board. Screen swap doesn't sound like a good idea to me either. I've heard too many people screwing up screen replacements with new parts let alone something used.
Guess I won't be joining your community at least not yet...
Sent from my Incredible 2 using xda premium
TheAtheistReverend said:
Thanks for the replies, I was considering picking up a pair of rezounds one with a bad screen and one with a bad charging port for cheap. They're for sale together for just over 120 on craigslist. I was going to swap the charging port but I don't think I'm up for that challenge if it is soldered to the board. Screen swap doesn't sound like a good idea to me either. I've heard too many people screwing up screen replacements with new parts let alone something used.
Guess I won't be joining your community at least not yet...
Sent from my Incredible 2 using xda premium
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The screen is easy to replace. Make sure you buy some double stick tape on amazon specially designed for this purpose. I think it is 2mm wide. It's like 5 bucks and will do maybe 10 or more phones.
johnwaynegacy said:
The screen is easy to replace. Make sure you buy some double stick tape on amazon specially designed for this purpose. I think it is 2mm wide. It's like 5 bucks and will do maybe 10 or more phones.
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I would be counting on using the screen from the other phone, and from what I have seen the removal of a good screen ends up ruining it.
Sent from my Incredible 2 using xda premium
Buy them, buy a new screen, and sell me the one with the bad port.
-Jim
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
BeagleBoy said:
Buy them, buy a new screen, and sell me the one with the bad port.
-Jim
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
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Seriously, are you looking for a Rezound with a bad USB? Mine charges, but hasn't been able to connect to PC since about a week after I got S-OFF. I have been looking for clean used ones so I can recover mountability.
Sent into the innertubes from my Arnova 10 G2.
I imagine that the USB port wouldn't be easy to replace, I remember trying to JTAG my Xbox360 where I had to solder 24 gauge wire to the board and it was a massive pain in the ass. The Rezound is way smaller do I'd imagine it'd be that much harder.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2
brando56894 said:
I imagine that the USB port wouldn't be easy to replace, I remember trying to JTAG my Xbox360 where I had to solder 24 gauge wire to the board and it was a massive pain in the ass. The Rezound is way smaller do I'd imagine it'd be that much harder.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2
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They make solder in a paste form that melts with a heat gun. That is what you need for small amt stuff. It makes it easy.
Get a soldering iron with the smallest tip you can find. Make sure it goes past 600 degrees F or it will not melt with just the tip.
I replace charger ports on the Nintendo DSi all day and its fairly easy. But if you don't melt the solder, and you pull too much, you could rip the pads off the board. (Which I have done many times) If you have access to a heat gun, then that is better. Use the heat gun to remove the port, but use a soldering iron to put the new one on.
All these surface mount things are placed on the board by robots and then ride through an oven, never to be touched by human hands.
The pins are quite small (Holy thread revival!)
Hola,
My USB port is pooping out on one of my vibrants, and i ordered a new one, took the casing apart, and removed the motherboard, then realized that it is soldered on. SO, today i must pick up what i need, and get as much advice you people are willing to give, becayse i will be attempting this after work. Ive soldered very few things in the past, and they were much bigger than a phone. I have an iron, tho it is a fairly large one, and the guage wire i have is surley too big for this application.
My question is, on the usb port, there is 4 soldering points, and the pins at the bottom seem to just lay on their contact points, is this right?
Is there anything i need to beware of before proceeding?
I dont have anything to clean the existing solder up? Do i need one of those suction things?
What size guage wire and iron will i need?
Thanks for any help in advance!
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
You're going to want to make sure the foils did not stay on the motherboard. If you see any residue on the board, the new port won't get a connection.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
I would maybe watch some YouTube vids and see what they do. Mobiletechvideos has one I believe. I am probably going to have to do the same thing on one of my Vibes so, I'll be following this.
I would think that you need a smaller iron with a sharper point, some flux, some patience and calm hands. Maybe some alcohol to calm you down and also to make sure the MB is cleaned completely before putting the new one on.
Woodrube said:
Maybe some alcohol to calm you down
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Click to collapse
I will take your advice lol.
I will also report back with my results.
Thanks
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
The power button that sticks to the side plastice piece on the motherboard was only "glued" on, do i need to buy some sort of glue to put it back in place, or does that sticky stuff never dry up?
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
kimbo1986 said:
The power button that sticks to the side plastice piece on the motherboard was only "glued" on, do i need to buy some sort of glue to put it back in place, or does that sticky stuff never dry up?
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
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You should be OK without any new goo. Just don't leave it laying around for two weeks before putting it back on. I swapped motherboards on my phone (ironically because of a bad USB port on my original phone), and didn't have any problems with the power button not sticking back on.
Also, from what you said in your original post, it seems you think that the port's pins just lay on the board. That is not correct, they actually need to be soldered on which is no small feat (no pun intended) due to how small and delicate they are. If you do not have a lot of experience soldering you will likely damage the port and possibly the board. I'm not trying to dissuade you from doing this if you think you're up for it, but it does take some skill. As a side note the guys at mobiltechvideos offer a repair service for $35 which seems reasonable to me.
By the way, where did you guys get the replacement port?
I recently had 2 dead lines going down my screen. From searching around I found that I needed to replace the front screen digitizer.
So I got a new digitizer, tore down the phone and followed the steps from a few youtube videos pretty meticulously. I reassembled the phone, and it powers up just fine. But it now response to no touch. I'm going to do a complete tear down again, but is there any tips that can be given? I've checked if the digitizer's ribbon cable is snapped in, all the motherboard cables are also snapped in.
Is there something I should check to see if it's just the new digitizer is a dud? Since the whole phone powers up and functions fine.. to me that sends up red flags.
Oh and I followed this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbR56jSplRs
If nothing else works you probably tore the ribbon cable, which is very easy to do. Also make sure you got an OEM screen. There are cheaper reproductions that aren't nearly as good. (Feel, glass, and details) the one I bought on amazon (from seller1on1 I think) is oem. Contact your company if you can't get it fixed, the company I got it from sent me like 3 replacements before I realized I forgot to remove the plastic bar.
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium
yea i bought an OEM refurb also with front Case.
Works great
squee666 said:
yea i bought an OEM refurb also with front Case.
Works great
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+1
avoid the "oem" digitizers and go for the refurb with bezel as these are also much easier to fit.
Have put 2 on now. One to replace dead zones and one when I dropped and cracked the screen.
Thanks, I did get an OEM one. I'll contact them to have them ship me a new one!
And by tore ribbon cable you mean the one attached to the digitizer? That had to be snapped onto the top next to the power button?
GiffE said:
And by tore ribbon cable you mean the one attached to the digitizer? That had to be snapped onto the top next to the power button?
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Yes, that one. The problem is the end attached to the digitizer itself. Never had to dig into this myself (knock on wood), but they say the part where the cable is attached to the digitizer is very very fragile and tears of easily (sometimes even micro-tears, something you can't even see, but it still disrupts the connection). They also say that cable is ridiculously short and that is a part of the problem why it tears so easily.
So the glass screen on my Transformer Prime is shattered but the LCD and digitizer is 100% working. I've been doing research trying to find a replacement glass and I see there's version .3 and 1.0, Which one do I need? How can I tell? And does it matter? I thought I read somewhere that if you get ver 1.0 and the x-axis is backwards there is a way to re-calibrate the system.
I hope that you can send it back to asus or get bit fixed in a shop and it doesnt cost you too much money . but im here to tell you that its going to cost, that glass is expensive word to the wise do not break the TF201 glass because you may have to buy another tablet.
How handy are you? Are you able/willing to dis-assemble your Prime? If you don't think you have the skills-set, you will almost definitely break your Prime worse by trying to replace the digitzer yourself. If you *do* think you've got the skills, then it's merely probable that you'll break your Prime worse. I have replaced my digitizer and LCD, and it is not simple. The LCD is very VERY delicate when you disassemble.
You'll need to search the threads here for digizer replacement info. There's sufficient information. Short answer: You need to open your Prime and look at the digizer's ribbon cable. The version will be silkscreened on the mylar ribbon cable. This is how you will know if you have v0.3 or v1.0. Getting the wrong digitizer will invert the left/right when you replace. This will make using the touch-screen practically unusable. Fortunately, the vendor that I bought the wrong rev. of digitizer from was very willing to do a refund. I had the foresight to bench-test the new digitizer before trying to actually install.
I understand there's a firmware hack available to correct for the inversion if you get the wrong rev. of digitizer. I'm pretty certain you'll need to unlock and/or root your tab to apply this. I was not willing to do either to my Prime.
Once you get to the installation, you'll see that the digitizer and the LCD are in a sort of sandwich with a plastic bezel inbetween. The digizier is foam-taped (very sticky) to the bezel. The LCD is foam-taped (even more sticky) to the other side of the bezel. The bezel has spurs on it that connect to sliding locks accessible thru the docking port holes. This is what locks everything together.
When trying to remove what remains of your digitizer glass from the bezel, you run a substantial risk of breaking the LCD. Did I mention how friggn' fragile that thing is?
You might be better off just bying a bricked Prime and just swapping the entire screen. 'Problem with that is that you'll have a hard time knowing which rev of the digitizer will be on the unit you're buying. 'No easy way to know that I'm aware of. Perhaps Asus support can help you to figure out based on serial number or something... I dunno. I *do* know that Asus support sucks donkey-balls. I love my Prime but hate that company's post-sale support. (Wanted me to do an RMA to get replacement rubber feet for my dock).
Jgrimoldy said:
How handy are you? Are you able/willing to dis-assemble your Prime? If you don't think you have the skills-set, you will almost definitely break your Prime worse by trying to replace the digitzer yourself. If you *do* think you've got the skills, then it's merely probable that you'll break your Prime worse. I have replaced my digitizer and LCD, and it is not simple. The LCD is very VERY delicate when you disassemble.
You'll need to search the threads here for digizer replacement info. There's sufficient information. Short answer: You need to open your Prime and look at the digizer's ribbon cable. The version will be silkscreened on the mylar ribbon cable. This is how you will know if you have v0.3 or v1.0. Getting the wrong digitizer will invert the left/right when you replace. This will make using the touch-screen practically unusable. Fortunately, the vendor that I bought the wrong rev. of digitizer from was very willing to do a refund. I had the foresight to bench-test the new digitizer before trying to actually install.
I understand there's a firmware hack available to correct for the inversion if you get the wrong rev. of digitizer. I'm pretty certain you'll need to unlock and/or root your tab to apply this. I was not willing to do either to my Prime.
Once you get to the installation, you'll see that the digitizer and the LCD are in a sort of sandwich with a plastic bezel inbetween. The digizier is foam-taped (very sticky) to the bezel. The LCD is foam-taped (even more sticky) to the other side of the bezel. The bezel has spurs on it that connect to sliding locks accessible thru the docking port holes. This is what locks everything together.
When trying to remove what remains of your digitizer glass from the bezel, you run a substantial risk of breaking the LCD. Did I mention how friggn' fragile that thing is?
You might be better off just bying a bricked Prime and just swapping the entire screen. 'Problem with that is that you'll have a hard time knowing which rev of the digitizer will be on the unit you're buying. 'No easy way to know that I'm aware of. Perhaps Asus support can help you to figure out based on serial number or something... I dunno. I *do* know that Asus support sucks donkey-balls. I love my Prime but hate that company's post-sale support. (Wanted me to do an RMA to get replacement rubber feet for my dock).
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Thank for the help, I planned on buying the part and then taking it to a reputable shop that we have here on base to fix it. That way if they break it they can buy me a new one. They wanted $200 for parts and labor. But they said if I brought the glass they would do it for $50 and I asked the guy questions about the adhesive and he was knowledgeable with the TF201. I was seeing if there's a way I could save a few bucks but no big deal. I guess I'll just drop it off tomorrow.
Thank you everyone for the help!
This is A very interesting & helpful thread I hope that this can help someone else who has this problem. Please let us know of your TF201 gets fixed.
$50 is a good price to do the work for you. With what I know now, I'd have paid this to have it done by someone else. Still though, if you're going to buy the digitizer glass yourself, you're in the quandry of figuring out what rev. you need, v0.3 or v1.0. You really want to get the right one. Short of disassembling yourself to be able to examine the ribbon cable, options are few.
Perhaps you can call Asus Support, give them your serial number, and ask which rev your unit has. Perhaps they'll give you a truthful answer. Perhaps they wont.
'Not sure that your repair shop will be keen on the idea of opening your prime for you to identify then order the glass youself to undercut their $20(ish) margin on getting the glass for you.