Why? Is it technical thing?
Because thi is the ratio of the sensor, other format involves cropping that reduces total mpix of the output.
Ciao!
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This is from the 808 but it gives you an idea. The sensor has a fixed shape, so the wider you go the more pixels you have to ignore.
Professorial cameras shoot in 4:3
Deblow said:
Professorial cameras shoot in 4:3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So..
We are the professional
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Deblow said:
Professorial cameras shoot in 4:3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The last time I check "professional cameras" are all 3:2, no?
If you take a picture in 9mp 16:9 and then change it to 12mp 4:3 and take a pic of the same thing, you'll see that you get more of the top and bottom in the image compared to 9mp. It's just cropping 3mp from the top and bottom of the 4:3 pic to get the 16:9 ratio.
It's just a popular ratio + the camera image fills our screen when set to 16:9 so it looks nicer.
Normally the sensor is 4:3, they just made it like this from the big die... some times, they cut it in other aspects like 3:2 or something it's all about manufacturing and getting the best cost...
here's a regular sensor, which is just 4:3
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/DMCGH1/ZSENSOR-LG.JPG
so imagine this sensor is 12MP, you will have an image that take the whole sensor, if you need a 16:9 image you will have three options:-
1- Stretch : ouch, should not be an option at all !!
2- Expand Horizontally : Impossible, because with 12MP you already use the full width and height, there's now where to Expand any where..
3- Crop vertically : It's the only option, by cropping from both top and bottom till the aspect ratio is 16:9 you will have the image you want.. but you will loose pixels ( Megapixels ) and incase of a 12MP you will have several MP cuts.. some camera might give you 9MP and some might give you 8MP...
same goes for Xperia arc, which has 8MP sensor, if you want 16:9 picture, the software will cut 1MP bar from top and another 1MP bar from bottom.. you will have a 6MP image by then...
some cameras are native 16:9 but these are rare, I only saw some in Pro camcorder, and with these the role will be inverted, you have a 16:9 sensor, so to get a 4:3 image you will need to crop two vertical bars from left and right so when capturing a 4:3 image with a 16:9 sensor you will also loose MP.. just like capturing 16:9 images with 4:3 sensors...
Thanks to the guys answering this thread. I've found this really interesting, never really thought about it before
Yeah, we all are now
And yes 3:2 lol
In fact IMO the 12MP 4:3 photos are more useful generally.
(That ratio also works better than 16:9 on Facebook, and since most of our photos would end up in there anyway, why not choose this? )
16:9 is too long and sometimes would look really strange, especially if you also do photography with a normal camera.
It all depends on what your subject is and what you use to view the pictures. I prefer 16:9 when viewing the on the TV at it fills all the area, and 4:3 at other times. I was annoyed when I bought a Fuji bridge camera that had 14MP, only on 16:9 too! By the time I got XS, I came to expect this
Related
I got to try out the stock camera on my DNA today.
The pics do it justice in high light situations. But noticing that they will do poorly on Zoomed and dim photos.
Here are unedited shots.
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Any tips on enhancing it even more to get the most out of the DNA camera? any mods?
In low light conditions, switch the ISO to 200 and use flash, it will take decent to nice pics that way, especially if the object or person isn't that far away... It may be a little hard to see the object/person but I think it does well..
Nice pics
Hope it helps
You might also note that the default resolution w/ a widescreen (16:9) picture is only about 6 megapixels. If you switch to the 4:3 resolution, it will use the full resolution of the sensor and give you 8 megapixel pictures.
jasoraso said:
You might also note that the default resolution w/ a widescreen (16:9) picture is only about 6 megapixels. If you switch to the 4:3 resolution, it will use the full resolution of the sensor and give you 8 megapixel pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One thing to keep in mind if you do this is that if you want to use the front camera you should switch it back to 16:9 to get the most resolution out of that one.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
Interesting tips didn't know that about the resolution.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda premium
jasoraso said:
You might also note that the default resolution w/ a widescreen (16:9) picture is only about 6 megapixels. If you switch to the 4:3 resolution, it will use the full resolution of the sensor and give you 8 megapixel pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent tip, did not know that. Thanks
jlevy73 said:
Excellent tip, did not know that. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the full blown 8M pics deff do a lot better, not to mention they're friggin huge.
Brax33 said:
Yeah, the full blown 8M pics deff do a lot better, not to mention they're friggin huge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you use dropbox, box, or bitcasa, you can automatically sync your pictures to your account. Take pic, auto upload, then delete off phone (if space is an issue.)
jasoraso said:
You might also note that the default resolution w/ a widescreen (16:9) picture is only about 6 megapixels. If you switch to the 4:3 resolution, it will use the full resolution of the sensor and give you 8 megapixel pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 8 megapixel picture will produce a larger file, but does it actually add in terms of better sharpness and richer details? I am just worried that the relatively weak sensor (it's a cell phone after all) will not be able add much more useful data beyond the 6 default megapixels, just more interpolated fluff.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
cowisland said:
The 8 megapixel picture will produce a larger file, but does it actually add in terms of better sharpness and richer details? I am just worried that the relatively weak sensor (it's a cell phone after all) will not be able add much more useful data beyond the 6 default megapixels, just more interpolated fluff.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My understanding of the way the sensor is creating widescreen (16:9) pictures, is that it is cutting the top 10% and bottom 10% of the picture off. Setting the camera to 4:3 gathers data from the full sensor. I don't think it the interpolation is changing.
Another way to think about the 16:9 picture, is if you set the camera to take a 4:3 picture, and then printed the picture, you would have a picture with a 4:3 ratio. If you then cut the top 10% (or so) and the bottom 10% (or so) of the picture off of the print, you would then have the same 16:9 picture that you would have had if you had the camera set to the default setting. It doesn't really effect the 16:9 picture, but you aren't utilizing the full surface area of the sensor.
Hello guys
I just wondering is there any possibility to take photo 9:16 with 8 mega pixels rather than 6 mega pixel
Coz always when wanna take photos with my s3 camera on 8 mega pixels it's come 4:3 so i hope there's solution for that
Regards
أرسلت من GT-I9300 بواسطة تاباتالك 4 بيتا
IRoN MaN9 said:
Hello guys
I just wondering is there any possibility to take photo 9:16 with 8 mega pixels rather than 6 mega pixel
Coz always when wanna take photos with my s3 camera on 8 mega pixels it's come 4:3 so i hope there's solution for that
Regards
أرسلت من GT-I9300 بواسطة تاباتالك 4 بيتا
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think so. Because the CCD http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charge-coupled_device of s3 is 4:3, you can scale down to take the picture in another aspect ratio, but you can never scale it up to take the photo in another aspect ratio.
As you can see,
This is 8MP (4:3): http://web.forret.com/tools/megapixel.asp?width=3264&height=2448
This is 8MP (16:9): http://web.forret.com/tools/megapixel.asp?width=3768&height=2120
This is 6MP (16:9): http://web.forret.com/tools/megapixel.asp?width=3264&height=1836
The width of 16:9 (3768) is exceed the width of 4:3 (3264), therefore making it impossible to capture (out of CCD field). However, you can still take photo in 16:9 but in lower resolution (3264 x 1836) because both the width and height doesn't goes above the limit of the installed CCD.
verifyfx said:
I don't think so. Because the CCD http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charge-coupled_device of s3 is 4:3, you can scale down to take the picture in another aspect ratio, but you can never scale it up to take the photo in another aspect ratio.
As you can see,
This is 8MP (4:3): http://web.forret.com/tools/megapixel.asp?width=3264&height=2448
This is 8MP (16:9): http://web.forret.com/tools/megapixel.asp?width=3768&height=2120
This is 6MP (16:9): http://web.forret.com/tools/megapixel.asp?width=3264&height=1836
The width of 16:9 (3768) is exceed the width of 4:3 (3264), therefore making it impossible to capture (out of CCD field). However, you can still take photo in 16:9 but in lower resolution (3264 x 1836) because both the width and height doesn't goes above the limit of the installed CCD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you bro for replying to me
This idea caome to me from app call "procapture" and as you see in screen shot of my phone we can by it take photo 9:16 on 8mp
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أرسلت من GT-I9300 بواسطة تاباتالك 4 بيتا
Hmm, can you check if that application took the photo and then stretch it by post-processing? because it's seems to be technically impossible
verifyfx said:
Hmm, can you check if that application took the photo and then stretch it by post-processing? because it's seems to be technically impossible
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know bro what you want me to do but i upload to you photo from the app
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/rm8nwv2x0tp0fak/qmV0mDTpHF
Ps. I noticed that camera 4.2 it can do that too
Regards
أرسلت من GT-I9300 بواسطة تاباتالك 4 بيتا
so ive upgraded to a z2 but after comparing the side by side shots of both devices, the z is so much more sharper to the point where it has better details
orginal z
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z2
look at the clouds infront of the sun, total lack of sharpness on the z2. both shot superior auto and both automatically chose the backlight scene. oddly enough the z2 has almost double the file size.
andyukking said:
so ive upgraded to a z2 but after comparing the side by side shots of both devices, the z is so much more sharper to the point where it has better details
orginal z
z2
look at the clouds infront of the sun, total lack of sharpness on the z2. both shot superior auto and both automatically chose the backlight scene. oddly enough the z2 has almost double the file size.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the higher the resoltution of your picture the worse quality, as always but lowering to 2mp makes pictures almost identicle across all xperias aside the effects of different lense sizes given your taking a daylight shot
also take note that almost all current avaliable firmware versions have a small camera issue causing pictures to turn out yellowish or very unfocused
Envious_Data said:
the higher the resoltution of your picture the worse quality, as always but lowering to 2mp makes pictures almost identicle across all xperias aside the effects of different lense sizes given your taking a daylight shot
also take note that almost all current avaliable firmware versions have a small camera issue causing pictures to turn out yellowish or very unfocused
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The z2 captured at 8mp and the z at 12 mp (their superior auto modes).
After further experimentation. The camera is very sensitive to minor discrepancies in the autofocus. If I capture the same scene, some of them will be clear and others not. Also, I believe that the physical camera button adds am extra element of shake.
andyukking said:
The z2 captured at 8mp and the z at 12 mp (their superior auto modes).
After further experimentation. The camera is very sensitive to minor discrepancies in the autofocus. If I capture the same scene, some of them will be clear and others not. Also, I believe that the physical camera button adds am extra element of shake.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well i did find the Z2 camera to be realy good in manual mode but auto mode just makes pictures horrible, even in manual mode if your settings are auto they still turn out sharper than in auto,
i did do a test up against auto mode and we determined auto mode makes pictures less sharp and unbalanced in color
we also descovered the same issue for all 4.4 xperias, some being worse than others in auto mode
The SA mode on z1/z2 is extremely easy switch to sport mode when you just got minor hand shake and that will bump up the shutter speed and ISO. Thus the photo will probably appear more noise, darker and softer.
TheEndHK said:
The SA mode on z1/z2 is extremely easy switch to sport mode when you just got minor hand shake and that will bump up the shutter speed and ISO. Thus the photo will probably appear more noise, darker and softer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I absolutely agree with this. The Sport mode is ridiculous overzealous. I was just attempting to capture a totally static living room scene and the sport mode was flashing on and off whilst I was holding the device as still as possible.
this 52mm lens is bothering me.
Photos from 2x zoom under normal light and lowlight environment most of them are digital zoom photo from 26mm lenses (fake 52mm photo,digital zoom). Difficult to switch to real 52mm lens, sometime the 26mm digital zoom and 52mm preview screen have been switching continuously after press 2X button ,nonstop. sometime delay, sometime lagging.
I know that sometimes multiple cameras will be “camouflaged” into other focal lengths based on light level with digital zoom.But the requirement to switch to real 52mm lens is too harsh in xperia 1. In a restaurant normal light environment you just can't switch to 52mm.
In the same low light , when you lucky switch to a 52mm lens, the picture clarity is much better than the 26m digital zoom from 2X ,I compared a lot are all same result. Ps4 gamepad is illuminated with a desk lamp and use a phone tripod for stable，2X always on 26mm digital zoom status,try switch 1x-2x like 50 times,finally got a 52mm one. Hope this is just a software issue or separate case, I need to know do I have to go service or wait update.
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from 2X (52mm)
from 2X (still 26mm digital zoom)
left 52mm, right 26mm digital zoom,both 2X
rom 2X (still 26mm digital zoom)
from 2X (52mm)
J9110 Hong Kong version 55.0A.2.2.278
I just tried a few other xperia1 in store all the same problem, under bright light shooting dark object it switching continuously between 26mm digital zoom and 52mm lens ,.sometime delay, sometime lagging. It seems this is a software problem ，also 52mm lens focusing slow and unfocus in short distance sometime. Other say that the Note9 used to have the same problem.Hope this can be adjust better in software update.
After some trial，I found that when 2X macro shooting , it uses the 26mm digital zoom to get closer distance. This is no problem. The problem is that switching between 2X lenses and the main lens digital zoom in some common normal light environment is still annoying，for example, under regular supermarket lighting take some distant products,the effect of 52mm is much better than the digital zoom of the main camera,the camera seems very difficult to choose which one to use.The only way to sure switch 52mm is to use portrait mode, then drag the background blur effect to 0 , But the photo capacity is 15M, which is three times of the normal camera mode.
I tried other mobile phones, some of the main camera pixels are very high, so it is advisable to use the digital zoom of the main camera to simulate telephoto in some scenes.In xperia1 case need more detailed adjustment.
Same issues here ..
Hi All,
Could anyone explain to me if there is any real "proof" of the fact that Samsung Galaxy A52s 5G has Optical Image Stabilization (OIS)? I have compared it with Galaxy A32 4G phone and from the point of image stabilization settings there is no difference. Both have the "Video stabilization" option like in the attached picture so this must be a setting for EIS, not for OIS because A32 lacks OIS. In addition OIS I think also works in still picture mode.
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This confuses me a lot. Is OIS an "always on" feature that cannot be controlled? Like a hidden feature? I cannot tell the difference from the user/UI point of view when comparing A52 with A32 in this regard...
Best Regards,
ak_dev
Yes, OIS is always on. It is a mechanical feature and therefore you cannot turn it off. EIS (like with the video stabilisation) on the other hand is a software feature and so you can turn it off in software. OIS is far more powerful with still pictures than Electronic Image Stabilization.
If you look at the specs from Samsung you will notice that the camera of the A52s is listed as OIS and no one with credibility has doubted this.
OIS is mechanical and cannot be turned on or off.
The A52 uses OIS on it's main lense and can use EIS when you turn on Super Steady Mode which uses the Ultrawide lense.
Is it echoing in here….?
gerhard_wa said:
Is it echoing in here….?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh sorry
Thank you guys for confirming this.
In the meantime I have performed some side by side tests of A52s and A32 phones and I must say OIS is definitely there in A52s. I have turned off "Video stabilization" feature on both phones and took some videos. A32 videos were more shaky (I have a bit shaky hands) and the real difference could be seen when shooting a video at 10x zoom. A52s preview window was very stable, almost like there was little difference if I additionally turned on the "Video stabilization" feature. On the other hand, A32 videos were really shaky with "Video stabilization" feature off and went stable when I turned the stabilization feature on. So "Video stabilization" feature is for sure controlling only EIS.
I must add however that OIS is not strictly mechanical, but electro-mechanical method and nothing prevents this technology to be controlled from the phone if desired. Here is a nice whitepaper from STM32 on this topic:
https://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/white_paper/c9/a6/fd/e4/e6/4e/48/60/ois_white_paper.pdf/files/ois_white_paper.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.ois_white_paper.pdf
Cheers.
There is a difference between electro-mechanical and electronic. The electro part of the OIS is a way to control the moving lens parts by electromagnets and the electronic part of EIS is a way of using the CPU to retain the picture steady in memory.
I will stick to my earlier statement that OIS is mechanical and EIS is electronic. I know of only one scenario when it could be of use to disable OIS and that is astrophotography. But to be honest I really do not think anyone will use the phone for this! There is no need to implement totally useless settings.
You can tell there's OIS just by looking on the lens when the camera app is on. Wiggle the phone around slightly and slowly and you can see the middle lens slightly lagging behind the motion, sometimes even showing parts of flat ring around the lens. When you turn the camera off, the lens doesn't do that.
Also when you look to viewfinder and wiggle the phone with normal camera, it feels much smoother than with e.g. non-stabilised wide camera.
And if you just shake the phone (doesn't have to be on), you can hear slight clicking of the floating lens.