Related
Using a New Trent External charger I noticed that the phone was still losing power, just at a way slower rate than without it charging. Phone showed charging. I was using netflix via 3g at the time. Would this be expected? Not super worried as the battery charges just fine when screen is off and not in use.
How many amp output is that charger??
My phone can't keep up with the charge if I'm veiwing a movie using HDMI unless I run incredible kernel with fastcharge enabled.
7000mAh. Think 1V output?
IIRC, the stock A/C charger is 1 amp.
A lot of aftermarket chargers do not have the balls to charge the Rezound.
you may need to modify a usb cable to short the Data wires to get the full charging potential out of it.
or try one of these cables from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-Micro...3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1328727460&sr=1-3
thatsricci said:
you may need to modify a usb cable to short the Data wires to get the full charging potential out of it.
or try one of these cables from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-Micro...3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1328727460&sr=1-3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does this cable work for sure with the rezound??
I don't need it right now with the incredicontrol running, but I ordered it just as a handy thing to have.
My new Trent works pretty well, but I wouldn't expect it to keep up with streaming vids. I found that it gives a charge to the idle phone at about 800mA, which is about the same as the stock wall charger.
Pick up battery monitor widget and you can track your plus and minus usage pretty well to decide if everything seems OK.
jmorton10 said:
Does this cable work for sure with the rezound??
I don't need it right now with the incredicontrol running, but I ordered it just as a handy thing to have.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I'll answer my own question. The cable definitely DOES NOT force higher charging at least when using an HDMI adaptor.
If I use Incredikernel with fast charging enabled with Incredicontrol, it will actually GAIN charge while playing a full length movie through HDMI.
This morning, I flashed back to dsb 1.3 with no frills cpu control & hooked up the new cable for charging. I started with a 100% charged battery & after playing a 1 hour DVD RIP from my card, it was down to 89% charged. Using Incredicontrol, during the exact same test the battery still read 100% at the end.
Thanks for your results jmorton10. Good to know. I wonder if it's the connections inside the HDMI adapter messing with it.
Not sure why HTC can't just get this right to always pull the max possible from whatever it's hooked into!
-j
My understanding is because the MHL adapter needs the USB data pins to work properly and they can't be shorted out as mentioned above, the phone thinks it's on a USB connection and limits it's current draw to 500mA.
mjones73 said:
the phone thinks it's on a USB connection and limits it's current draw to 500mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is definitely the problem, the battery monitor widget claims it is charging from USB even though it is plugged directly into an A/C charger.
I guess I will be flashing back to Incredikernel/Incredicontrol tonight. I do like dsb kernel slightly better as it never freezes/bootloops etc. ever on that kernel. It does stop responding occasionally on IC (requiring a battery pull) although it doesn't happen very often.
The Rezound complies with the USB charging specification. If your power source isn't compliant, it won't draw more that 500 mA (and probably less if USB doesn't enumerate, but I haven't checked). That's what the "short the USB data pins" thing is all about. Earlier USB charging spec said they should be shorted, the latest says 200 ohms. Any "USB charger" which doesn't do that isn't compliant, and shouldn't be sold as USB-anything, because it doesn't follow the USB spec. Return it to where you got it, and complain (loudly).
Regardless of how much power a charger can deliver, even if it meets spec you won't see more than about 800 mA go into the battery. There's a limit to how much current both the connector and the battery can safely handle, and the phone takes that into consideration.
Remember, the mA reported by utilities is (always?) what's going in/out of the battery. The charger would be delivering more than that (e.g. 800 mA into the battery, plus 400 mA to power a phone doing video streaming, etc.). AIR, the micro USB connector is limited to ~1500 mA, and I've never seen a battery charge at much more than 800, as reported by the kernel. Conversely, when charging from a non-USB charging spec compliant port, the phone won't draw more than ~500 mA from the port, and the battery only gets what's left after subtracting what's needed to run the phone.
Another thing which can affect charging is the cable. If you have a long USB cable using 28 gauge wire, there will be a significant voltage drop across it. USB specs say the voltage should be between 4.75 and 5.25 V, and Android seems to limit the charging current so the incoming voltage stays above 4.75V. Using 24 gauge USB cables, especially with longer lengths, can increase the charging current. Most vendors don't tell you the wire gauge used in their cables, but Monoprice does (no relation, etc.).
When ever I drive, I have my phone hooked up to my Escort Red Line radar detector and my car's stereo via bluetooth (both). In order for me to use the radar detector effective, I need to have GPS and Blueooth enabled. This is a HUGE SUPER OMG battery drainer for my amaze. 20 minutes drive kills about 35% of the phone's power. My radar detector offers a slot to charge my phone BUT it still drains, not enough juice flowing in. Someone said it is because it's probably a .5amp.
So I am running a extension from the 12v lighter that's in the trunk to the front of my car. Amazon has a generic 2.1amp for 3 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Heavy...121&sr=8-1&keywords=htc+amaze+car+charger+amp
But on ebay, I found the original HTC car charger for 15 bucks which is a 1amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...918506?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c867022a
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
The 2.1 amp is probably 1 amp per port. Although it does not seem to specify.
F9zSlavik said:
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right!:good:
---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------
soundping said:
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Higher voltage will trip a warning window telling you to disconnect and use official HTC equipment.
The phone monitors input voltage to protect the equipment.
nyc_tdi said:
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
I recently got an Amaze and am generally happy with it. The biggest problem I have right now is finding the right car charger for it because the car charger I previously used (a 1A monoprice car charger) doesn't give it enough charge. I have been reading through the forums and some has been saying that if the charger is not working properly, it will recognize it as charging via USB rather than AC. In my case, the phone seems to be reading it as charging through AC, but there still doesn't seem to be enough current going through it. The phone will only charge if NOTHING is going on (i.e. screen's off, no GPS, etc.). I've been using CoPilot GPS and it draws the battery like crazy. Anyone has any idea as to which car charger would work properly with the Amaze such that I'll be able to charge (or at least maintain the charge) while using it as a GPS? Do I need to go up to a 2.1A charger?
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
I couldve sworn we talked about this months ago. Let me see if I can find the thread.
nguyendqh said:
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you won't get the full 2.1a unless you usee a charge only cable or modify the charger as I stated above...
I ended up getting a 2.1A car charger and a USB charge only cable, and it's working perfectly. When I have the screen on full brightness and doing navigation with Co-Pilot GPS, my phone's no longer losing charge and is actually charging. The combo also works with my tablet as well.
blast0id said:
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Silentbtdeadly said:
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done this to every single one of my USB car chargers... not a single issue...
Hello,
I have a Nook Tablet, 16GB model, that I received during the 2011 holiday. This summer, about 4 months ago, it stopped turning on.
I have flashed it with CM7 Alpha from CelticWebSolutions, but that was at least a month before it stopped working. CM7 ran fine while it was working. There is no physical damage to the device. The Tablet does not even get warm when plugged in and the screen does not turn on. Windows does make a noise when the device is plugged in but nothing is recognized.
I am not sure what other information I can give. I would have posted this immediately to the forums if I was not so preoccupied this summer. All help and advice is greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Not to be super obvious, but have you tried holding in the power for 20 seconds? Then plugging it into the wall charger and letting it sit all night?
Sent from my Slider SL101
Thank you Solar.Plexus,
I had tried charging overnight, and holding down power for 20 seconds. However, your post had me think of trying the stock nook cable - the one with the extra pins. I charged overnight and sure enough, it worked!
Now, when I try a microusb cable to charge, it still works. Why would a microusb cable still not charge the device before, but does now? What could the extra pins have possibly done?
Anyway it is working now. I am sorry if this post has polluted the forum. Please remove if necessary.
HighBomber said:
Thank you Solar.Plexus,
I had tried charging overnight, and holding down power for 20 seconds. However, your post had me think of trying the stock nook cable - the one with the extra pins. I charged overnight and sure enough, it worked!
Now, when I try a microusb cable to charge, it still works. Why would a microusb cable still not charge the device before, but does now? What could the extra pins have possibly done?
Anyway it is working now. I am sorry if this post has polluted the forum. Please remove if necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No sweat about polluting the forum -- this is the place for Q's and A's...
There's some really good information about the B&N cable located in this thread from the Accessories forum (look at post 17 in particular) http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1386602 that can probably answer your questions better than I can.
HighBomber said:
Thank you Solar.Plexus,
I had tried charging overnight, and holding down power for 20 seconds. However, your post had me think of trying the stock nook cable - the one with the extra pins. I charged overnight and sure enough, it worked!
Now, when I try a microusb cable to charge, it still works. Why would a microusb cable still not charge the device before, but does now? What could the extra pins have possibly done?
Anyway it is working now. I am sorry if this post has polluted the forum. Please remove if necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FWIW - The B&N USB cable has the extra pins because it provides a higher charge rate (more current) that the USB "standard" allows. In theory, a standard USB connection should charge the Nook, but it will take much longer. I'm wondering if the Nook was so discharged that the charge circuit wasn't being triggered by your USB connection. Was it your PC or an external charger? It's also possible that your USB connection voltage is too low. A fairly common problem. My Droid X is really picky about charge voltage.
From feeble memory, B&N charger = 1 Amp or 1000mA. USB = 500mA max.
wellersl said:
FWIW - The B&N USB cable has the extra pins because it provides a higher charge rate (more current) that the USB "standard" allows. In theory, a standard USB connection should charge the Nook, but it will take much longer. I'm wondering if the Nook was so discharged that the charge circuit wasn't being triggered by your USB connection. Was it your PC or an external charger? It's also possible that your USB connection voltage is too low. A fairly common problem. My Droid X is really picky about charge voltage.
From feeble memory, B&N charger = 1 Amp or 1000mA. USB = 500mA max.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, wellersl. This summer I had tried charging overnight with my regular microusb cable, which I believe came off of a wall charger. Before my Nook died, I had last charged it on the road using the same USB cable, but with a car to usb adapter. You have a good theory, though. I hope if anyone runs into the same problem, they will find these posts and try out the stock cable. I never like to use it because it is incompatible with other devices while using up a USB port.
I have been using my Nook most of the day. I updated CM7 and have done a factory reset - all on battery. After roughly 6 hours on battery it says I have 81% battery left. I am hoping the battery life has not been negatively effected by a full drain and four months of neglect.
It has the extended pins because B&N wants to make money and proprietary cables enable this. It has nothing to do with the amount of current that can be pushed.
For reference, my stock galaxy nexus charger pushes 5V at 1amp.
Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2
Cubanluke88 said:
It has the extended pins because B&N wants to make money and proprietary cables enable this. It has nothing to do with the amount of current that can be pushed.
For reference, my stock galaxy nexus charger pushes 5V at 1amp.
Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Allow me to correct myself. The B&N charger is rated 5V @ 1900mA (Mine is, anyway.).
Anyway, I'll have to respectfully agree and disagree. Certainly B&N is in it to make a buck. But there's more to it than that. And I'll be among the first to point out the FUD that's been posted all over the web *because * of that proprietary cable.
Standards are wonderful. There are so many from which to choose.
so got tired of not finding a fast charge mod so I mod the cable.
took a realy thin cheap USB cable and cut it in two. on the phone side chortsircut the data cables (white and grean) then connected the vcc+ and ground- normal.
the only reason I cut it in two was to be able to tread a shrink tube on the cable.
now I get fast charge from car and power pack and. and it works perfect.
now stop saying u need a special or expensive cable.
u need a knife and shrink tube and a heat gun (a cigaret lighter works)
and no u can't use this cable for datacynk only charge
maydayind said:
so got tired of not finding a fast charge mod so I mod the cable.
took a realy thin cheap USB cable and cut it in two. on the phone side chortsircut the data cables (white and grean) then connected the vcc+ and ground- normal.
the only reason I cut it in two was to be able to tread a shrink tube on the cable.
now I get fast charge from car and power pack and. and it works perfect.
now stop saying u need a special or expensive cable.
u need a knife and shrink tube and a heat gun (a cigaret lighter works)
and no u can't use this cable for datacynk only charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks man, I'm gonna do that.
Why blow data when you can just get a cheap 4$ cable from newegg with 22 awg power leads. I linked it in confirmed usb cable thread. You destroyed a cable and made it special, hence using a special one instead of standard. The base is pre shorted. You increased AWG technically. Get it? You made a charge only cable, when these are special and can be had cheap anywhere. Buy a nice 4$ standard one with the right power lead awg and you can use it for anything.
...or.. Crazy idea here. Get an Android charger?
Cutting up USB cables is a bad idea, especially shorting them out. The data pins are not supposed to be shorted, generally 200Ohms is expected.
They are suppose to be shorted with fast charge... the base normally does this on plug in on AC switch. A USB3 port also does this... all he did was make a charge only cable. With fast charge 2 though, you won't make it much past 1A this way, just like USB3. Why our stock cable has thick power lead AWG and the phone can reach 1.8A.
Steamer86 said:
They are suppose to be shorted with fast charge... the base normally does this on plug in on AC switch. A USB3 port also does this... all he did was make a charge only cable. With fast charge 2 though, you won't make it much past 1A this way, just like USB3. Why our stock cable has thick power lead AWG and the phone can reach 1.8A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I said, 200ohm, not shorted... Anyway.
unless the plugg that u connect the USB cable in i sent chortcircut it won't fast charge whatever cable u use. this is for making a charge cable to use with carcharger ore power packs. of u use a wallcharger it's 99% certain it is already chotend and u don't need this. but if u use the original cable (fastcharge) it won't fast charge in a power pack or car charger.
and I charge att same speed with this cable then original charger cable that came with the phone. measured 1.8a with this cable that's all my Powerpack can output. can probably go higher depending on how mutch the phone can use.
it's li-po so should be able to charge 0-100% in 20min but whill shorten battery life and don't think oer phones can handle it
I fast charge with 3 different cables. Again, it's the AWG. Facts don't lie. My power pack and car charger are pre shorted, so all good. If not pre shorted though, you are correct sir.
my wasn't that's why I made this. so no matter what cable used it won't fast charge. Som people also say u have to by a expensive cable with is bull####
if someone can provide a link with a preshortens cable... well then show it. unable to find any
It is legit. I did this with a car USB cable when I had my One X. It would only charge at USB rate (500ma) even though it was a 1A charger. Using navigation the battery would discharge faster than it charged. Tried various cables, and only got it to work by shorting the data pair. After that it charged AC at full 1A.
maydayind said:
my wasn't that's why I made this. so no matter what cable used it won't fast charge. Som people also say u have to by a expensive cable with is bull####
if someone can provide a link with a preshortens cable... well then show it. unable to find any
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Several available on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=usb+charging+only+cable
Not always. My car cigarette adapter is modded to short data pins. It fast charges all my other devices and even my tablets, but doesn't even charge my G2. It says its charging, no slow charging messages, but still depletes battery. Only way toncharge in my car is to use the second USB port that is unmodded, which slow charges. Annoying.
I still think there is a software bug limiting the charging speeds because you can get different speeds by plugging in the same cable mulitple times.
-sent from my LG G2 using XDA Premium 4
We aren't saying you are wrong, you are just doing something different. It's not about expensive, its about thickness for the combo usb cable. Just the awg. What your solution does is increase awg. They are called charge only cables (pre-post short). What people were searching for are COMBO cables. You are using/doing something different. Why titles are called "working USB" cables, not charge only. We already knew this. There is bugs. That was apparent in the voltage testing. Something in the kernel isn't playing right at all times. I have seen this on my car charger. With no change in conditions, I can sometimes charge 200mA's higher with a replug.
player911 said:
Not always. My car cigarette adapter is modded to short data pins. It fast charges all my other devices and even my tablets, but doesn't even charge my G2. It says its charging, no slow charging messages, but still depletes battery. Only way toncharge in my car is to use the second USB port that is unmodded, which slow charges. Annoying.
I still think there is a software bug limiting the charging speeds because you can get different speeds by plugging in the same cable mulitple times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The included home charger for the G2 is rated at 1.8A -- use anything smaller, and you'll see the pop up warning on the phone that charging will be slow and that you should use the "official" charger.
My guess -- if you can find a car charger that actually will put out as much as the phone wants to draw (e.g., 1.8A), and THEN use your shorted data lines, you'll see fast charging of the G2 in your car.
jonstrong said:
The included home charger for the G2 is rated at 1.8A -- use anything smaller, and you'll see the pop up warning on the phone that charging will be slow and that you should use the "official" charger.
My guess -- if you can find a car charger that actually will put out as much as the phone wants to draw (e.g., 1.8A), and THEN use your shorted data lines, you'll see fast charging of the G2 in your car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 3SIXT micro USB charger I have is rated to 1A not modded, just bog standard. When charging I checked the battery stats and it says AC charging. Now I don't know if it has the data pins pre-shorted, but it managed to boost my battery by 10% in under 20 minutes. The phone was idle, but that's not bad going for a 1A $10 charger.
seems like the moderators did a god job deleting som posts.
just want to say I'm a sorry for my bad manur/attitude/language.
keep the input comming
here is another thread about the topic on another device
* *http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2292373
maydayind said:
so got tired of not finding a fast charge mod so I mod the cable.
took a realy thin cheap USB cable and cut it in two. on the phone side chortsircut the data cables (white and grean) then connected the vcc+ and ground- normal.
the only reason I cut it in two was to be able to tread a shrink tube on the cable.
now I get fast charge from car and power pack and. and it works perfect.
now stop saying u need a special or expensive cable.
u need a knife and shrink tube and a heat gun (a cigaret lighter works)
and no u can't use this cable for datacynk only charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks man
jonstrong said:
The included home charger for the G2 is rated at 1.8A -- use anything smaller, and you'll see the pop up warning on the phone that charging will be slow and that you should use the "official" charger.
My guess -- if you can find a car charger that actually will put out as much as the phone wants to draw (e.g., 1.8A), and THEN use your shorted data lines, you'll see fast charging of the G2 in your car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not true have tried 3 other chargers 1.2 1.0 and 0.8 all say fastcharge (ac) with my modes cable. as long as it's over 500ma and with a cable with data pins shortend the slow charge warning is removed an the phone thinks it's charging from ac
charging my phone now with a Powerpack with 1a output and it says fastcharge (ac)
if I use the original cable it goes to slowcharging 500ma iv meshurd befor I put on the shrinking tube for isolation
and a car charger can output in theory 5-20a depending on your fuse in the car
the charging current is controlled by kernels in so phone. my old sensation u culd mod with a fastcharge Kernel so it never limited to 500ma always use max.
Samsung even has the ability to do a full charge in 30min but disabled in Kernel.
lg - g2 uses lipo battery's and culd actually be charged in less then 20min but if we do that u have to replace the battery every 6month at the best.
and lipo are extremely sensitive to over charge and the cells have to be charged with precision balans not to explode or swell.
Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Given the Gear S w/ cradle only has 300mah + 300mah battery to charge, any cell phone charger with microUSB will work. Even a PC USB port should work. I didn't even bother take the original AC charger out of the box. Using my alarm clock's USB port for charging every day even when it is totally dead without problem. So, anything with a USB port will work. You don't need to buy the original AC adapter.
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
You guys got a charging cord and adapter?
BAD ASS NOTE 4 + BAD ASS GEAR S
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
alanshortt said:
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. USB chargers output the same voltage (5V) and varies in current output capability. The adapter won't/can't output more current than the other end (your cradle) requested for. The only time it won't work is if your device need more amperage for charging and the adapter can't supply that much, e.g. a lot of cell phones requires 1000+ ma of amperage for charging but a lot of generic USB chargers can only output 500ma. This results in not able to charge when battery is almost dead.
As mentioned above, the watch has a tiny battery and only requires very little current for charging.
The official AC adapter for watch is labeled 5V 700ma.
Foxbat thx to the answers!
psicolizzard said:
Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wall wart for the Gear S says 5vdc at 0.7 amps. I have used other chargers though, computer usb comes to mind, just use a usb to micro usb cable.
I have a meter, and can check the pins for power on the cradle, if that would help.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using XDA Free mobile app
drjosephkim said:
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
chemman said:
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
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Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
calinormy said:
Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
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As this thread helped me when I missed my cradle for charging, I uploaded a photo for clarification.
The pads at the back of the watch are counted 12345 from left to rigth when holding the watch with SAMSUNG bottom side and SIM card slot on top. See attached jpg.
To avoid electrical damage to the watch, I put some transparent tape over the pads first. Then I carefully scratched little holes through the tape for pad 2 and 5.
Then I was able to charge the Gear S just with holding red and black wires from an old cutted USB cable on these pads (black 2 and red 5).
Next step would be to find a clever way for fixing the tiny wires on these micro pad spots while charging.
I tried with a clothespin and it took ages until it finally stayed fixed. Had to take watch out of the wrist band for this.
Fixing with tape didn't work at all.
Chears, Ulle
You guys mention "mini USB" on the charger cable. My Gear Fit2 came with the cradle hard wired and USB plug in. Are there various charge cradle options for the Fit2?
Pins pictures.
Calinormy you saved my gear S thanks.