Is there actually any components inside the cigarette lighter plug thats used to charge the XDA in-car?
As i'm getting one of the digitraveler gps receivers, and want to modify the cable to allow me to charge the xda whilst using the gps. The only problem is I don't have an in-car charger for my xda, i do have to spare cigarette lighter plugs though.
Would it be possible to just use one of the plugs and send the + feed to pins 20,21,22 and the - feed to 16,17 & 18 ? as in Yorch's guide (http://www.yorch.net) Or does this thing need resistors and things inside it ??
:?
Many Thanks
Swifty, I modified a usb sync/charger with the lighter socket adaptor, just add the wires from the digitraveler to the usb cable, you then end up with sync/charger, car charger and digitraveler y lead/xda charger.
:? Hmmm I think I understand what you mean.. I don't really want to touch the usb cradle i have though, I just want to add the lighter plug onto the gps cable, solely for the purpose of charging when using the GPS in the car.
Cheers
Swifty, not the cradle, I got a usb sync/charger and a car lighter adaptor from ebay, I modified this instead of trying to add wires to the digitravelers connecter. The thread is under another posting about a cheap gps. Also the cables that come with it need to be modified to work with xda.
Yeh, I understand what your saying, but I'd rather not have to buy a car charger or whatever to then hack it about. Not when I have got several lighter plugs lying around, if I can use one of them... :wink:
Cheers
OK, if you use a standard plug end, you will blow it, if however you have an old phone charger lead that gives 5volts that should do the trick I think.
Aha! thats what i'm after, cheers mate
Anyone confirm its 5v I need before I cook my XDA :lol:
Cheers
The HTC XDA/Qtek must be feeded with 5 V. The current consumption can be as high as 1A when in use and charging internal battery.
I have made my own 5V regulator for car use, but this require some experience in electronics.
Here's what I have installed, with converter schematics.
More info here.
Regards, Tore
Cheers 8)
This post is not meant to ask a question, but to answer some. Hopefully it will help someone. It might get lengthy, so if you're not into reading it all, scroll to the bottom for the cliff notes.
Like many others I've seen here and around the web, I was having trouble with my Note charging really slow. It only seemed to charge at a reasonable rate with the stock charger that shipped with it (~3 hours 0 to 100). I didn't expect much out of my PC USB ports because they are only 500mA max (as are most), but I have several 1A USB chargers that I used to use with my iphone without a noticeable problem. Being that they are 1A just as the samsung stock charger is, I was baffled as to why they would not charge at the same rate. I even tried my wife's ipad charger which is 2A and that did not make any difference, it was just as slow as my (non samsung) 1A chargers. It did not matter which cable I used, from the stock samsung one that shipped with the Note to a number of other ones I have.
I finally had had it and after searching all over and not finding any answers other than people's anecdotal stories about what works for them, and deciding that way too much of that was just placebo (ie people saying the ipad charger charged faster, and I know it does not). I cut one of my charger cables (USB type A male to micro USB male) open, and did a few experiments with my multimeter to determine the current levels for my various chargers under various scenarios.
I tested 4 different chargers. The black samsung charger that came with the phone, a white iphone one that is a cube like the samsung one, also 1A max, a stock 2A ipad charger, and an external 5000mAh USB charging battery pack that puts out 750mA max.
I had heard that the data+ and data- pins needed to be shorted on samsung phones in order to charge properly, so I tested the charging current with these pins shorted, with these pins connected straight through (as is a normal charging cable), and with these pins open (5V power and ground only).
Here are the results:
Black stock samsung charger (1A):
-Data lines connected straight through, which is essentially just a completely normal data/charge USB type A to USB micro cable = 960mA.
-Data lines not connected, open on both ends, only USB power 5V and ground connected = 440mA.
-*Modified cable* so that the data lines on the micro USB side (phone side) shorted = 960mA.
White iphone 1A charger:
-Data lines connected straight through (stock cable) = 440mA.
-Data lines open, not connected on either end = 440mA.
-*Modified cable* so that data lines on the micro USB side shorted = 900-910mA with phone screen on, 850mA with phone screen off. I assume that what might have been happening here is that the charge current was just going up when the phone was drawing more current because the screen was lit up. I don't think it was actually affecting charge speed, it was just maintaining the same charge but providing more power so that the screen could stay lit without affecting the charging rate. I don't know why it was doing this though because the stock samsung charger did not do this.
-iPad 2A charger:
-Data lines connected straight through (stock cable) = 440mA.
-Data lines open on both ends = 440mA.
-*Modified cable* so that data lines shorted on phone micro USB side = 860mA whent he screen was on, 780mA screen off. Note that I'm surprised this did not go up to the same as the samsung stock charger or even as high as the 1A iphone charger. I don't know why? It is a genuine apple iPad charger that claims 10W which is 2A at 5V. As far as why it might have different currents for screen off and on, read my comments above for the white iphone charger that did the same thing.
External 5000mAh battery USB charger (750mA max claimed output):
-Data lines connected straight through (stock cable) = 440mA.
-Data lines open on both ends = 440mA.
-*Modified cable* so that data lines shorted on phone micro USB side = 760mA phone screen on, 700mA phone screen off.
So that's all the data. As you can see, it is very important that the USB data+ and data- lines are shorted together in order to charge at a fast rate. The problem is that all normal usb data/charge cables, including the stock samsung cable that came with the Note, do not have these pins shorted, so it is up to the charger itself to short these pins if it is to put out its max current to charge the Note. Obviously the stock samsung charger has them shorted, because it charges at a fast rate with a normal cable. But none of my other chargers, including the iphone and ipad charger, have these pins shorted, so the only way these other chargers I have will charge at their max current capability is by using a modified cable (which I made) that shorts the data+ and data- pins. Using this modified cable allows me to use any charger, and charge at its max output. Note that if you also make a cable that has these pins shorted, don't mistake it for a normal cable and try to plug it in to a computer or anything that plans to use the data lines as this could potentially damage that device.
Unfortunately at this time I do not have any recommendations for cables to buy that have the data+ and data- pins shorted, but I can recommend buying one from amazon for $1.50 and doing it yourself if you're capable, but again, be careful not to use it for anything but charging from a "dumb" AC (or car) charger. I do not take responsibility for any damage you might do to your charger or other equipment!!!!
Also unfortunately, I do not have any recommendations for chargers which definitely have the data lines shorted in order to charge quickly. I have another charger or two that I can test, but don't have them with me now. I would imagine that all samsung chargers will have the appropriate pins shorted and will charge at their max capacity. I doubt the Note (without modifications) can charge any faster than ~960mA, though, so you're spinning your wheels using a 2A charger, and in the case of something like the iPad charger, at least the genuine apple one I have, with a normal cable, it actually does not charge even half as fast as the stock samsung charger, and even with a modified cable that shorts the data lines, it's still not as fast as the stock charger, although it's pretty close (probably wouldn't notice much difference in real usage unless you really measured your charge time). I'm hoping to order a few more chargers to test, in hopes of finding a cheap aftermarket one that we can use with our Notes that already has the pins shorted.
*Cliff notes* -- I physically measured the output current during charging of my SGH-I717 AT&T Note for a few different USB chargers I have, and discovered that all of them (that I personally have) except the stock samsung charger do not have the data+ and data- lines shorted, which means that you'll be charging at 440mA of current, regardless of the rating of your USB charger. This is less than half the current of the stock samsung charger, meaning it will take more than twice as long to charge your phone. In fact, if you're using you're phone during charging, there's a good chance that not only will it not charge, but it will actually drain the battery a little bit, because 440mA is barely enough to run the phone (depending on what you're doing). So while you think you're charging with the same charger because it's rated at 1A or even 2A, chances are you actually are only charging at 440mA, the same as from a USB computer port, and it is going to take a realllly long time to charge compared to your stock samsung charger. Bottom line, use the stock samsung charger until we can test a few different chargers and compile a list of ones that have the data lines shorted so that they can charge your Note at their full current capability.
Hopefully this is helpful to answer some of the questions about why the Note seems to be charging slow for some people and not for others. I imagine that there are some USB chargers out there that have the data lines shorted and others that do not. Until I can get my hands on a few more (I'm going to order a couple different ones from amazon) and test them, I don't have any recommendations for now other than to use your stock charger, and most likely any genuine samsung replacement charger rated at 1A or more (though it probably will not use more).
wow! Thanks for investigating this!
This wad good info bruh.....thanks for the time u took man.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Wow that is pure science....
As I'be been posting everywhere, fast chargers short the middle 2 pins. The phone sees this and determines it's a "wall charger". I always recommend the Motorola car charger as it's confirmed to have shorted data pins, or short them yourself with a dab of solder within the cable. Don't use it for data though. Won't hurt, but won't work!
Edit: fantastic work though, thanks for taking the time!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Thanks for the tip on the motorola charger having the pins shorted. Is this the one you're talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846
Here's my dilemma. I used the stock Samsung cable with a 2.1A rated adapter from TomTom (rapid charge) as it was said it might be the pin configuration and lost more charge than using the same adapter with a universal Belkin mini USB cable with a micro adapter. My issue is that while using the GPS and streaming music, the phone loses charge while on the charger!
This is not acceptable.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Yes. Thats the one they elude to. Ebay has them for $7.59 with free shipping.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Thanks for all that - very helpful. I was planning to try the iPad charger (mentioned it in another thread) but time got away from me. This is great information to have.
dakleenupman said:
Here's my dilemma. I used the stock Samsung cable with a 2.1A rated adapter from TomTom (rapid charge) as it was said it might be the pin configuration and lost more charge than using the same adapter with a universal Belkin mini USB cable with a micro adapter. My issue is that while using the GPS and streaming music, the phone loses charge while on the charger!
This is not acceptable.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stock cable does not have the data pins shorted, the actual AC wall adapter does.
Sent from my SAMSUNG Galaxy Note
Thanks pj_rage.
I'm pretty good electrically, but a bit less so with google. I searched, and likely didn't use the right string (happens pretty often with me). Got a diagram or a link to a diagram so I can see which two pins need shorting?
Makes more sense to me to go and modify all my car chargers rather than modify cables. I'll never use a car charger to transfer data to a computer, but might use a cable in a car in a pinch if I needed to.
So if I were to use the home adapter with stock cable hooked up to a power inverter While in my car, I should expect the 960mAh output then?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
dakleenupman said:
So if I were to use the home adapter with stock cable hooked up to a power inverter While in my car, I should expect the 960mAh output then?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That should work, but kinda overkill. It's less cumbersome to either modify a dedicated cable or the car charger itself. Just short circuit the two middle pins.
Thanks for the research OP. Btw are you on AVS?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
pj_rage said:
Thanks for the tip on the motorola charger having the pins shorted. Is this the one you're talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the one
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Think the problem is people are not allowing their phones to drain before placing back on charger. My first out of box battery was about 40% didn't charge it till it was about 5-7% left. 2nd day I charged it to 100% which took about 3.5 hrs and than let it drain to about 20% before I put it back on the charger. 3rd day let it drop to 15% battery and placed on charger again. I've had my phone for almost 4 days and so far no problems, battery last 18-20 hrs on avg. Just my input I guess.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
dakleenupman said:
So if I were to use the home adapter with stock cable hooked up to a power inverter While in my car, I should expect the 960mAh output then?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've also seen issues with other phones when charging off a inverters with random reboots, some charge, some don't etc.
Envy Diz said:
Think the problem is people are not allowing their phones to drain before placing back on charger. My first out of box battery was about 40% didn't charge it till it was about 5-7% left. 2nd day I charged it to 100% which took about 3.5 hrs and than let it drain to about 20% before I put it back on the charger. 3rd day let it drop to 15% battery and placed on charger again. I've had my phone for almost 4 days and so far no problems, battery last 18-20 hrs on avg. Just my input I guess.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lithium ion batteries don't work that way, and actually, they prefer short, fast charges. Android, on the other hand, seems to like a full cycle or two to calibrate its battery stats, but that might just be a myth.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
slow charge
I too have been troubled with poor battery life and slow charge. Here is what I have experienced:
I charge mine overnight for 9 hours. Every day I take the phone off the charger and I notice it is at 98%. Then I struggle to get through the day.
One day I switched phones in the evening, so the Note was left on the charger for 12 hours. When I took it off next morning, it said 100%. Low and behold... I was left with about 20% more at the end of a typical use day. Does this meen that the 2% extra charge makes that much difference?
I too have tried all of the different high amp chargers with all of the same results.
I guess I was just trying to understand with the OEM charger where the "shorting takes place.
nm3th said:
That should work, but kinda overkill. It's less cumbersome to either modify a dedicated cable or the car charger itself. Just short circuit the two middle pins.
Thanks for the research OP. Btw are you on AVS?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
over2land said:
Thanks pj_rage.
I'm pretty good electrically, but a bit less so with google. I searched, and likely didn't use the right string (happens pretty often with me). Got a diagram or a link to a diagram so I can see which two pins need shorting?
Makes more sense to me to go and modify all my car chargers rather than modify cables. I'll never use a car charger to transfer data to a computer, but might use a cable in a car in a pinch if I needed to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have a link to a diagram (you can just Google USB pinout if you want it). I can try to find one later if you still need it. You want the two data lines shorted together. If you cut the cable in half as I did, you only need to short them on the phone side. The other side you can leave open if you want.
But you're absolutely right it would probably be a better idea to short the pins on the charger side. My issue is that my chargers are not easily opened. The cable on the other hand is a quick mod.
If I did it again I would just shave off some insulation from the cable to access the wires without cutting them, leave the power connected, and just cut and short the two data lines on the phone side and tape or heat shrink it up. Fwiw the power lines on my cable were red and black, black being ground, and the data lines were yellow and green. I believe this is standard but I should advise you that it would be prudent to beep it out to the connectors to be certain.
Regarding using an inverter and your home charger in your car, yes this would give you the best charge rate. Supposedly the linked Motorola charger has the pins shorted which would be a less cumbersome setup to provide the same or very similar charging rate. I've ordered one, so I'll report back.
And yeah I'm on AVS as well, same username.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
This is my second Anker charing disc (the first one didn't work at all, but atleast they replace it). Now onto the review:
The packaging is the same as other Anker product that I have. The box is a plain, cardboard and logoless with the exception of their name printed on the front. The box is in a sleeve which is home to the product information on the back and a picture with a brief description on the front.
Once your open the box you are greeted by the wireless qi charging disc. The internal packaging is the same as the exterior with more cardboard, which is okay with me because the product is what you are buying and not a just a box. Once you remove the charging disc you are greeted by a small warrantee paper, and a micro USB 2.0 cable. There is NO power adapter included with this charger. All you need to start charging is a standard 2.0A USB brick. The qi charger is one of the faster one charging at 1.0A which is great compared to others.
The charger is easy enough to use, simple plug the micro USB cable into the back of the disc and the other end into a 2.0A USB charger, or external battery. After that is done you will see a little green light on the front of the charger light up, this means you are ready to charge. Simply place your device on there and your charging!
The build quality is great, its very thin, light, however, its very glossy and attracts fingerprints better than forensic dusting powder. On the underside you will find four rubber feet, along with a S/N for the device.
Here it is charging my Nexus 7 (2013):
I hope you all enjoy this quick look and review of the Anker qi charging disc.
Pilz said:
This is my second Anker charing disc (the first one didn't work at all, but atleast they replace it). Now onto the review:
The packaging is the same as other Anker product that I have. The box is a plain, cardboard and logoless with the exception of their name printed on the front. The box is in a sleeve which is home to the product information on the back and a picture with a brief description on the front.
Once your open the box you are greeted by the wireless qi charging disc. The internal packaging is the same as the exterior with more cardboard, which is okay with me because the product is what you are buying and not a just a box. Once you remove the charging disc you are greeted by a small warrantee paper, and a micro USB 2.0 cable. There is NO power adapter included with this charger. All you need to start charging is a standard 2.0A USB brick.
The charger is easy enough to use, simple plug the micro USB cable into the back of the disc and the other end into a 2.0A USB charger, or external battery. After that is done you will see a little green light on the front of the charger light up, this means you are ready to charge. Simply place your device on there and your charging!
The build quality is great, its very thin, light, however, its very glossy and attracts fingerprints better than forensic dusting powder. On the underside you will find four rubber feet, along with a S/N for the device.
Here it is charging my Nexus 7 (2013):
I hope you all enjoy this quick look and review of the Anker qi charging disc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice. It was out of stock when I looked and now its available. I may pick this up. I love their products.
Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Given the Gear S w/ cradle only has 300mah + 300mah battery to charge, any cell phone charger with microUSB will work. Even a PC USB port should work. I didn't even bother take the original AC charger out of the box. Using my alarm clock's USB port for charging every day even when it is totally dead without problem. So, anything with a USB port will work. You don't need to buy the original AC adapter.
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
You guys got a charging cord and adapter?
BAD ASS NOTE 4 + BAD ASS GEAR S
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
alanshortt said:
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. USB chargers output the same voltage (5V) and varies in current output capability. The adapter won't/can't output more current than the other end (your cradle) requested for. The only time it won't work is if your device need more amperage for charging and the adapter can't supply that much, e.g. a lot of cell phones requires 1000+ ma of amperage for charging but a lot of generic USB chargers can only output 500ma. This results in not able to charge when battery is almost dead.
As mentioned above, the watch has a tiny battery and only requires very little current for charging.
The official AC adapter for watch is labeled 5V 700ma.
Foxbat thx to the answers!
psicolizzard said:
Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wall wart for the Gear S says 5vdc at 0.7 amps. I have used other chargers though, computer usb comes to mind, just use a usb to micro usb cable.
I have a meter, and can check the pins for power on the cradle, if that would help.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using XDA Free mobile app
drjosephkim said:
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
chemman said:
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
calinormy said:
Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As this thread helped me when I missed my cradle for charging, I uploaded a photo for clarification.
The pads at the back of the watch are counted 12345 from left to rigth when holding the watch with SAMSUNG bottom side and SIM card slot on top. See attached jpg.
To avoid electrical damage to the watch, I put some transparent tape over the pads first. Then I carefully scratched little holes through the tape for pad 2 and 5.
Then I was able to charge the Gear S just with holding red and black wires from an old cutted USB cable on these pads (black 2 and red 5).
Next step would be to find a clever way for fixing the tiny wires on these micro pad spots while charging.
I tried with a clothespin and it took ages until it finally stayed fixed. Had to take watch out of the wrist band for this.
Fixing with tape didn't work at all.
Chears, Ulle
You guys mention "mini USB" on the charger cable. My Gear Fit2 came with the cradle hard wired and USB plug in. Are there various charge cradle options for the Fit2?
Pins pictures.
Calinormy you saved my gear S thanks.
I live in the US and Huawei sent me an adapter and it has worked fine for 2 months in the same outlet, and now all of a sudden it isn't working in quite a few outlets around the house. It seems to be a fairly yes or no type thing, it either works or doesn't, it isn't like it works and then stops. My wife has knocked it off the outlet a few times and only the wood floor, but I can't imagine that damaging a charger. I don't know what's going on, it's really unusual. Has anyone experienced this at all?
US power pins are notoriously easy to bend, and I'd suggest that on one of your plugpack's many express trips to the floor, one or both of the pins have been slightly bent. They might still make a good connection with reasonably-new wall sockets, but when plugged into an old/sloppy socket, either or both of the pins isn't making contact.
To confirm this point, get an extension cable or power board and plug the plugpack into it to confirm that it works from a "known-good" wall socket - then test each of the other wall sockets with this combination and you'll probably find that it still works, because the extension cable's (or power board's) plug doesn't have bent pins.
Once confirmed, get a pair of vice grips or mechanic's pliers (you want something with a large clamping surface - avoid needle-nose pliers) and straighten the power pins on your plugpack; it should then work properly in all wall sockets.