To calibrate a stock battery on my new GalaxyII, Battery Monitor Pro is asking to know this info? I cannot seem to read anything on my stock charger to be able to answer this Q. Dam that text is small.
Anyone know this off hand?
5V
700mA
0.7A
THNX tons
Next Question!!It seems my old EVO4G charger will fit my new GS2, but the EVO charger clearly says Output is 5V=1.0A
Are some of my many EVO chargers usable on the GS2?
stlfrosti said:
Next Question!!It seems my old EVO4G charger will fit my new GS2, but the EVO charger clearly says Output is 5V=1.0A
Are some of my many EVO chargers usable on the GS2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, even though it says 1A your phone will limit it to the max it can receive. (they're usable).
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2
It will charge at 650mA.
Sent from my GT-I9100
THNX again guys!!!
Insurance sent me a GS2 after my EVO replacement was a dog!! Dam thing was a refurbish that they didn't get right... so "for your troubles" they sent me the GS2 and so now I'm learning a few things over again.
I got tons of EVO batteries and accessories tho.
Wezi said:
5V
700mA
0.7A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can i convert A (from charger) to mA (to app) by just multiplying A x 100? (0.7A x 100 = 700mA)?
Or charger's voltage matters/depends aswell? If it do so, what's the formula to get mA?
Look below to my charger's label - which A value should i use? This from output - 1.0 or this above - 0.16?
Full label:
Input: 100-240V~
50/60Hz 0.16A
Output: 4.8V - 1.0A
xStagGx said:
Can i convert A (from charger) to mA (to app) by just multiplying A x 100? (0.7A x 100 = 700mA)?
Or charger's voltage matters/depends aswell? If it do so, what's the formula to get mA?
Look below to my charger's label - which A value should i use? This from output - 1.0 or this above - 0.16?
Full label:
Input: 100-240V~
50/60Hz 0.16A
Output: 4.8V - 1.0A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 1000mA in 1A.
I have a question of my own, my galaxy s2 charger broke. The standard rating for it is 5V @ 700mA. I bought a Samsung USB charger but it only has 4.4V and 400mA. I know it will charge slower because of the lower amp rating but will the lower voltage change anything?
xStagGx said:
Can i convert A (from charger) to mA (to app) by just multiplying A x 100? (0.7A x 100 = 700mA)?
Or charger's voltage matters/depends aswell? If it do so, what's the formula to get mA?
Look below to my charger's label - which A value should i use? This from output - 1.0 or this above - 0.16?
Full label:
Input: 100-240V~
50/60Hz 0.16A
Output: 4.8V - 1.0A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh dear..
1st thing:
1A = 1000mA, so 0.7A = 700mA although how you got from 0.7 x 100 = 700 is beyond my understanding (its 70 in case you were wondering)
2nd thing:
no the voltage doesn't matter in this conversion.. it's basic math
3rd thing:
you should use the output value from your charger, so in your case 1.0A = 1000mA
4th and last thing:
I suggest to reread book of physics from school.. especially the part about electricity SI base units and metric prefixes
Jaisah said:
There are 1000mA in 1A.
I have a question of my own, my galaxy s2 charger broke. The standard rating for it is 5V @ 700mA. I bought a Samsung USB charger but it only has 4.4V and 400mA. I know it will charge slower because of the lower amp rating but will the lower voltage change anything?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Except slow charge probably no, but I would not use it. Is it even working?
Related
hi,
i lost my original charger and would like to buy replacement. which can be not htc.
what are technical characteristics of the original charger?
mA, V?
i need with european plug.
thanks!
43 ones read the post and no one replyed. Cmon?! don't you have a charger near you? what are mA and V of the htc original 3part charger?
You can't expect people to reply within 7 minutes of posting a thread Give eBay a go, it'll be your best shot. I've got loads of extra chargers, but they have a US plug (not that hard to get a converter btw, super cheap).
Hope this helps http://cgi.ebay.com/EURO-AC-mini-US...ries?hash=item3ca4fc9c2b&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
I've lost the orginal charger somewhere, and I was not able to find an original replacement. I successfully tried both following, but I use the second one:
1) Sony AC-U50A: Input Voltage 100 240 V 50/60 Hz, Rated Output Voltage: DC 5.0 V, Rated Output Current: 500 mA (http://www.sony.it/product/paa-ac-adaptors/ac-u50a)
2) Philips SCM2280/05: Voltage Required: AC 100-240 V, Voltage Provided: 5.6 V, Output Current: 500 mA (http://www.consumer.philips.com/c/power-solutions/universal-usb-charger-scm2280_05/prd/gb/)
regards
lontrapignola said:
I've lost the orginal charger somewhere, and I was not able to find an original replacement. I successfully tried both following, but I use the second one:
1) Sony AC-U50A: Input Voltage 100 240 V 50/60 Hz, Rated Output Voltage: DC 5.0 V, Rated Output Current: 500 mA (http://www.sony.it/product/paa-ac-adaptors/ac-u50a)
2) Philips SCM2280/05: Voltage Required: AC 100-240 V, Voltage Provided: 5.6 V, Output Current: 500 mA (http://www.consumer.philips.com/c/power-solutions/universal-usb-charger-scm2280_05/prd/gb/)
regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be careful with other chargers, they can actually hurt your device. If i'm correct, original HD chargers charge at 1000 mA, not 500. There've been several complaints with Motorla and Nokia chargers that end up messing the battery and the device so just a heads up.
kareeem said:
You can't expect people to reply within 7 minutes of posting a thread Give eBay a go, it'll be your best shot. I've got loads of extra chargers, but they have a US plug (not that hard to get a converter btw, super cheap).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I know how to search the ebay or dealextreme.com. If you read my first post it asks for electrical characteristics:
what are technical characteristics of the original charger?
mA, V?
And not "where to find or how to use ebay search".
Thanks for your response.
kareeem said:
Be careful with other chargers, they can actually hurt your device. If i'm correct, original HD chargers charge at 1000 mA, not 500. There've been several complaints with Motorla and Nokia chargers that end up messing the battery and the device so just a heads up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you (or anybody else) confirm that original charger has a label 1000mA on the back?
Bulka..
Manau visi HTC pakrovejai yra 5V 1A. Turejau P3300 ten irgi buvo 5V/1A, dabar HD irgi tas pats...
I think all HTC chargers are rated 5V 1A. My previuos Artemis charger also was 5V/1A, same is for HD charger.
golfietis said:
Bulka..
Manau visi HTC pakrovejai yra 5V 1A. Turejau P3300 ten irgi buvo 5V/1A, dabar HD irgi tas pats...
I think all HTC chargers are rated 5V 1A. My previuos Artemis charger also was 5V/1A, same is for HD charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ačiū. Ieškosiu reiškia 1A pakrovėjo. Maniškis atrodė taip pat kaip nuotraukoje.
Big thanks goes to golfietis!!!
500mA isnt the cause of the charge issue on other phones.
500mA is what PC USB sockets give, and will mearly take twice as long to charge your battery than a 1000mA (1A) charger.
voltage is the dangerous value here, but anything using USB-type connector should be 5v.
if you want OE stuff, try http://www.htcaccessorystore.com/uk/p_htc_phone.aspx?i=173502
The stock moto wall charger that comes with the phone has the following specs:
100-240v ~ 50/60Hrtz
0.2A
output 5.1V = 850 mA
I've been interchanging between the stock one and my old Galaxy-S one, which lists the following:
100-240v ~50/60Hrtz
0.15A
Output 5.0V = 0.7A
Does the slight undervoltage make a difference? I'm wondering if this is what has been causing my battery issues ? Anyone else use anything other than the official moto charger to charge their Atrix?
I didn't think it would make much of a difference since when you're using the car charger, you're not using exactly the same specs either ... ?
Any info appreciated, thanks!
crippenx said:
The stock moto wall charger that comes with the phone has the following specs:
100-240v ~ 50/60Hrtz
0.2A
output 5.1V = 850 mA
I've been interchanging between the stock one and my old Galaxy-S one, which lists the following:
100-240v ~50/60Hrtz
0.15A
Output 5.0V = 0.7A
Does the slight undervoltage make a difference? I'm wondering if this is what has been causing my battery issues ? Anyone else use anything other than the official moto charger to charge their Atrix?
I didn't think it would make much of a difference since when you're using the car charger, you're not using exactly the same specs either ... ?
Any info appreciated, thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should not make a difference. USB is rated from 4.7v to 5.4v and 500 mAs the charging spec is 1 A on the phones (technically charging spec for USB is anything "safe"). USB is considered 5v so actually the Galaxy-S one is more "perfect" for the specs.
I have a 1A charger that will not charge my Atrix but it will charge my old Fuze.
Sent from my MB860 using XDA Premium App
Recon Freak said:
I have a 1A charger that will not charge my Atrix but it will charge my old Fuze.
Sent from my MB860 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was readin last night after posting, looks like 850 mA is the charging max for Atrix, it says any higher and it will trickle charge for safty. I don't have the link because I am at work but I think it was on the support forums at motorola.com
Hi, I am new to this forum and You will probably be hearing a lot from me.Will this inverter work with the Viewsonic G Tablet: Wagan 2107-6 Smart AC 80 USB Inverter. I purchased it to use with another device and was hoping I could use it with the Viewsonic. I am waiting for delivery of the Viewsonic and was hoping I would not have to buy another car charger. Thanks
lartomar2002 said:
Hi, I am new to this forum and You will probably be hearing a lot from me.Will this inverter work with the Viewsonic G Tablet: Wagan 2107-6 Smart AC 80 USB Inverter. I purchased it to use with another device and was hoping I could use it with the Viewsonic. I am waiting for delivery of the Viewsonic and was hoping I would not have to buy another car charger. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like that inverter will up convert from 12V DC to 120V AC and then the power adapter for the GTab will down convert from 120V AC to 12V DC, seems like a lot of wasted energy in the form of heat. You should take a look at the power limits of the inverter. If my electrical training serves me right (22 years ago) 12V x 2A = 24 Watts.
I bought the Vector Mfg VEC009 from Amazon.com for $15.25 shipped. It works, but there is a noticeable buzz if you plan on using the GTab to play music while you leave the charger plugged in, but once the GTab is charged, I was able to drive from Las Vegas to Reno (7 hr trip) playing music and I still had battery life left.
texasbrew said:
Looks like that inverter will up convert from 12V DC to 120V AC and then the power adapter for the GTab will down convert from 120V AC to 12V DC, seems like a lot of wasted energy in the form of heat. You should take a look at the power limits of the inverter. If my electrical training serves me right (22 years ago) 12V x 2A = 24 Watts.
I bought the Vector Mfg VEC009 from Amazon.com for $15.25 shipped. It works, but there is a noticeable buzz if you plan on using the GTab to playing music while you leave the charger plugged in, but once the GTab is charged, I was able to drive from Las Vegas to Reno (7 hr trip) playing music and I still had battery life left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not an electrician either but if I am interpreting you correctly you are saying this is to much power for the GTab? I originally ordered this for a Pandigital Novel which is 5v 2a and the reason I ordered it was because I could not find a car charger with the correct tip. I though since this inverter accepts regular 110v type house plugs I would not have to ever worry about have to search for a charger with correct tip size again. Besides I all ready have this unit. Will it hurt the GTab?
Not enough
lartomar2002 said:
I am not an electrician either but if I am interpreting you correctly you are saying this is to much power for the GTab? I originally ordered this for a Pandigital Novel which is 5v 2a and the reason I ordered it was because I could not find a car charger with the correct tip. I though since this inverter accepts regular 110v type house plugs I would not have to ever worry about have to search for a charger with correct tip size again. Besides I all ready have this unit. Will it hurt the GTab?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your inverter does not output enough power. It may power the gTab for a short time, but texasbrew is correct that the conversion process results in heat being generated & from what I see on amazon, your unit uses passive (no fan) cooling to get rid of the heat. Since you would be trying to draw more power than the inverter is designed to handle (gtab needs 110-120 watts vs 80 watts your inverter is designed to output), it would become hotter than normal and have a harder time disipating the heat generated. The thermal limiter inside would eventually shut it down when the components become too hot or if you draw too much current. In addition, the additional heat could cause the inverter's components for fail quicker.
Depending on if you need to power any other ac devices in your car, you should either buy a more powerful inverter (150 wattt one would do) or consider the dc adapter that texasbrew suggested.
Al
I would only be using it for quick charges not for operating the GTab. My wife thinks I am buying to many gadgets so I am trying to keep peace.
Are you not confusing volts for watts. I'm not an electrician so I do not know.
lartomar2002 said:
I would only be using it for quick charges not for operating the GTab. My wife thinks I am buying to many gadgets so I am trying to keep peace.
Are you not confusing volts for watts. I'm not an electrician so I do not know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
watts = amps x volts
amps = watts/volt
volts =watts/amps
No, not confusing volts with watts (although one affects the other). According to the specs for the model you quoted, your inverter is capable of supplying 80 watts of power @ 110v or .73 amps. The gTab p/s input says 100-240v @ 1A (thats 110 watts...110v x 1 amp) needed to output the 12V @ 2 Amps the p/s outputs (24 watts).
Ofcourse, we are talking about the specs for the gTab power supply & the inverter. What we don't know is if the gTab p/s actually uses the entire 110 watts or if the inverter will actually let you draw more current than than the manufacturer states. Manufacturers typically build in fudge factors so you may be able to draw a little extra from the inverter & not need as much from the p/s & it may work OK.
Understand the wife thing well. Will you be doing that much charging/using while driving? You should be able to get 6-8 hours out of your battery depending on what you are doing. The gTab is going to draw the most power when actualy charging (vs less while maintaining a fully charged battery). Think of it kind of like charging your car battery. When the battery is low, the charger draws more current & when it gets close to full charge the amps goes down.
In the end the only true test is to try it. It may work or it may try to draw too much current and cause an undervolt condition that would trigger the safety circuits & not output anything.
Al
kevinlekiller, over on slatedroid.com on the Viewsonic GTab sub-forum accessories, posted a pic (I would post a link but being a new member I can not add a link until I have made at least eight post) that shows a tool named "Kill a Watt" and it shows the Gtab only using nine watts while running "angry birds".
aabbondanza said:
According to the specs for the model you quoted, your inverter is capable of supplying 80 watts of power @ 110v or .73 amps. The gTab p/s input says 100-240v @ 1A (thats 110 watts...110v x 1 amp) needed to output the 12V @ 2 Amps the p/s outputs (24 watts).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not how these things should be calculated.
If, at the secondary winding of a transformer, you draw 24 watts, then at the primary winding, too, you will have the same wattage drawn.
According to the ideal power equation for transformers:
Power (in) = Power (out)
ie. V (in) x I (in) = V (out) x I (out)
so, if the at the secondary winding, 2 A is drawn at 12 V, and the input voltage at the primary winding is 110 V, then the current drawn at the primary is:
I (in) = V (out) x I (out) / V (in)
ie. 12 * 2 / 110 = 0.21
So, on the primary side, 0.21 A is drawn to supply 24 watts at the secondary. And since the converter supplies 80 W, you should be able to use it without any problems.
In reality, the gtab will probably never use 24 watts. The sticker at the back says the power consumption is < 24 watts. And the script I use to check these things tells me that the power consumed when charging from a flat battery is ~12 W; and when the gTab is idle at the home screen, it's around 2.5 W. When it's sleeping with the screen off the power drawn is around 1.15 W. It will be even lower when the gTab goes into deep sleep mode.
A big thanks rajeevvp
rajeevvp said:
That's now how these things are calculated.
If, at the secondary winding of a transformer, you draw 24 watts, then at the primary winding, too, you will have the same wattage drawn.
According to the ideal power equation for transformers:
Power (in) = Power (out)
ie. V (in) x I (in) = V (out) x I (out)
so, if the at the secondary winding, 2 A is drawn at 12 V, and the input voltage at the primary winding is 110 V, then the current drawn at the primary is:
I (in) = V (out) x I (out) / V (in)
ie. 12 * 2 / 110 = 0.21
So, on the primary side, 0.21 A is drawn to supply 24 watts at the secondary. And since the converter supplies 80 W, you should be able to use it without any problems.
In reality, the gtab will probably never use 24 watts. The sticker at the back says the power consumption is < 24 watts. And the script I use to check these things tells me that the power consumed when charging from a flat battery is ~12 W; and when the gTab is idle, it's around 2.5 W.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There ya go, I love the way a form like this can get a question answered.
It would make a great bumper sticker. But, all kidding aside thanks to everyone that jumped on this and tried to help.
If she wouldn't mind an extra $4 then this one shoudl work.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1186539
I dont know whats getting worst.
But whats the best replacement charger for xtz that has a higher amps? I already looked in amazon and most of it has a 2a dual and i still want to ask the community
And guys if possible please suggest those has a long data cable
---
I cant wait for the next update on XTZ, something like .67
Displa, camera, battery and some tweak, not sure.
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
arcsuser said:
I dont know whats getting worst.
But whats the best replacement charger for xtz that has a higher amps? I already looked in amazon and most of it has a 2a dual and i still want to ask the community
And guys if possible please suggest those has a long data cable
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not saying it's the best, but I've been using an old iPad charger (2.1A) for the last 2 months without any problems. I plug the charger into a mains extension lead so I don't need a very long USB lead.
Well i have an iphone5 charger here it says output 5v---1a
Is it ok to charge thendevice with it?
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
arcsuser said:
Well i have an iphone5 charger here it says output 5v---1a
Is it ok to charge thendevice with it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any USB wall wart that is 1.5 amps - 2.1 amps (1500 - 2100 mA) @5 volts will work. The more amps the faster it will charge. In a pinch you could use a 1000 mA charger, it will just take longer.
Alright im confused.. Which is faster mA or A?
And by the way im not asking about the power here but a replacement.
Thanks for the infos though
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
1000 Milliamps = 1 Amp
1500 mA = 1.5 A
2100 mA = 2.1 A
Pop Quiz: 5A is how many mA? _____
5000mA is how many A? _____
Often wall warts list output in milliamps
Some external batteries list output in Amps.
It's not hard to convert between the two.
dph3055 said:
1000 Milliamps = 1 Amp
1500 mA = 1.5 A
2100 mA = 2.1 A
Pop Quiz: 5A is how many mA? _____
5000mA is how many A? _____
Often wall warts list output in milliamps
Some external batteries list output in Amps.
It's not hard to convert between the two.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get it..
5000mA
5A
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
arcsuser said:
I get it..
5000mA
5A
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Congrats, you passed electricity 101.
Keep in mind that batteries can be fickle creatures. Sony delivers the XTZ with a 1500 mA charger. Based on that alone, it's probably best to replace the original charger with another 1500 mA charger. While you can certainly use more than 1500 mA and it will certainly charge faster, in the long run you may end up shortening the battery life. There are only so many charge cycles to be had in any given battery and quick charging can put an extra strain on a battery that wasn't manufactured to suck up power that quickly.
In a pinch, use whatever you have on hand or can find. For everyday charging, its best to default to what the manufacturer recommends.
The Apple 12W one works perfectly fine and charges the tablet so much faster!
There is people here saying it is impossible because of battery electronics.
It's quite simple: They're plain wrong.
Jequan said:
The Apple 12W one works perfectly fine and charges the tablet so much faster!
There is people here saying it is impossible because of battery electronics.
It's quite simple: They're plain wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without doubt the best charger I've used for the money. It keeps up with battery drain on heavy use (Full HD video+Net+ others...at the same time) Stock charger does not. At first glance it does seem expensive but does the job very well.
I sent Sony a link to the Apple website for these as it's much better than the POS charger they give you with their £400 "Flagship" tablet. Well worth the £15 price tag.
Jequan said:
The Apple 12W one works perfectly fine and charges the tablet so much faster!
There is people here saying it is impossible because of battery electronics.
It's quite simple: They're plain wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, yes and no. Watts, Amps and Volts are all different measurements for different things and it can be quite confusing to figure out to the uninitiated. Watts is a mathematical calculation based on Ohm's Law. Watts = Volts x Amps
All USB devices accept a maximum of 5 volts. USB standards cap the max power delivered to a device @ 5 volts. Most standard USB ports deliver 5 volts @1 amp. Newer computers and specially designed charging ports can and do deliver more than 1 A via USB but they all deliver a maximum of 5 volts.
12 watts divided by 5 volts = 2.4A
If you look at your charger you'll see the output amps listed as 2.1A or 2100 mA.
Sony's included charger only delivers 1.5A or 1500mA, so yes it charges slower and when the tablet is under high load, has a hard time keeping the battery at 100%.
The real concern here, is what effect does delivering 2.1A of current to the battery day after day have on the useful life expectancy of that battery? I don't know the answer because I don't know anything about the battery that Sony uses. It's possible, if Sony, used a top quality battery, that charging with 2.1A will have no effect at all and Sony just wanted to save a buck or two by including a weaker charger in the box. On the other hand, Sony may have deliberately used a battery designed to accept 1.5A and included an appropriate charger.
As I said in a post above, apart from the battery overheating while charging (if it wasn't designed to charge @ 2.1A) and a reduced useful life of the battery, there shouldn't be any real problem using a "slightly" more powerful charger - up to a point. Charge with too many amps and the battery will probably explode or at the very least melt, potentially causing a fire if left unattended.
When talking to Sony, the question you need to ask, "Is the battery rated for 2.1A or only 1.5A?"
dph3055 said:
Well, yes and no. Watts, Amps and Volts are all different measurements for different things and it can be quite confusing to figure out to the uninitiated. Watts is a mathematical calculation based on Ohm's Law. Watts = Volts x Amps
All USB devices accept a maximum of 5 volts. USB standards cap the max power delivered to a device @ 5 volts. Most standard USB ports deliver 5 volts @1 amp. Newer computers and specially designed charging ports can and do deliver more than 1 A via USB but they all deliver a maximum of 5 volts.
12 watts divided by 5 volts = 2.4A
If you look at your charger you'll see the output amps listed as 2.1A or 2100 mA.
Sony's included charger only delivers 1.5A or 1500mA, so yes it charges slower and when the tablet is under high load, has a hard time keeping the battery at 100%.
The real concern here, is what effect does delivering 2.1A of current to the battery day after day have on the useful life expectancy of that battery? I don't know the answer because I don't know anything about the battery that Sony uses. It's possible, if Sony, used a top quality battery, that charging with 2.1A will have no effect at all and Sony just wanted to save a buck or two by including a weaker charger in the box. On the other hand, Sony may have deliberately used a battery designed to accept 1.5A and included an appropriate charger.
As I said in a post above, apart from the battery overheating while charging (if it wasn't designed to charge @ 2.1A) and a reduced useful life of the battery, there shouldn't be any real problem using a "slightly" more powerful charger - up to a point. Charge with too many amps and the battery will probably explode or at the very least melt, potentially causing a fire if left unattended.
When talking to Sony, the question you need to ask, "Is the battery rated for 2.1A or only 1.5A?"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That i can agree with and it's a risk i am willing to take. There is people who say the 2.1A charger wont affect charging time in a positive way at all. That's what what i refered to when i said it's not true.
Jequan said:
That i can agree with and it's a risk i am willing to take. There is people who say the 2.1A charger wont affect charging time in a positive way at all. That's what what i refered to when i said it's not true.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely. More current (which is what Amps measure) means faster charge times, as long as what is being charged can accept the current being provided. You should be fine, but what do I know. PM me in six months and let me know if your battery still last a reasonable amount of time - then we'll know.
dph3055 said:
Well, yes and no. Watts, Amps and Volts are all different measurements for different things and it can be quite confusing to figure out to the uninitiated. Watts is a mathematical calculation based on Ohm's Law. Watts = Volts x Amps
All USB devices accept a maximum of 5 volts. USB standards cap the max power delivered to a device @ 5 volts. Most standard USB ports deliver 5 volts @1 amp. Newer computers and specially designed charging ports can and do deliver more than 1 A via USB but they all deliver a maximum of 5 volts.
12 watts divided by 5 volts = 2.4A
If you look at your charger you'll see the output amps listed as 2.1A or 2100 mA.
Sony's included charger only delivers 1.5A or 1500mA, so yes it charges slower and when the tablet is under high load, has a hard time keeping the battery at 100%.
The real concern here, is what effect does delivering 2.1A of current to the battery day after day have on the useful life expectancy of that battery? I don't know the answer because I don't know anything about the battery that Sony uses. It's possible, if Sony, used a top quality battery, that charging with 2.1A will have no effect at all and Sony just wanted to save a buck or two by including a weaker charger in the box. On the other hand, Sony may have deliberately used a battery designed to accept 1.5A and included an appropriate charger.
As I said in a post above, apart from the battery overheating while charging (if it wasn't designed to charge @ 2.1A) and a reduced useful life of the battery, there shouldn't be any real problem using a "slightly" more powerful charger - up to a point. Charge with too many amps and the battery will probably explode or at the very least melt, potentially causing a fire if left unattended.
When talking to Sony, the question you need to ask, "Is the battery rated for 2.1A or only 1.5A?"
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You're kinda right, but kinda not....
The charging circuitry inside the tablet is what regulates the charging current, not the 'charger', it will have min and max currents (the thing we plug into the wall that we all call a charger, is really just a power supply, there's no charging circuitry inside it.) That's why it doesn't charge from a standard usb port (which is 500mA) so, if it's charging faster with a 2.1A power supply, then it's obviously designed to do so.
Let's say, for example, the tab can accept a charging current of between 700mA-2.5A. Obviously, the charge time will be slower at 700mA than 2.5A, however, if you were to plug in a 5A power supply, the charging circuitry in the tablet will still only draw the 2.5A its designed to. So, don't worry about giving it too much, it's not possible.
Now, I don't know what the min and max charge currents are, but I can tell you that mine will charge (very slowly) from a 700mA LG charger.
And also, the dock for the tablet states an input of 1800mA,
So, we can assume the min is at least 700mA and the max is at least 1800.
Sent from my C5303 using Tapatalk 4
technaudio,
That's my age showing. Back before some smart guy invented the wheel, we gave a device power and if we gave too much a fuse would blow. I didn't mean to imply that the charging circuit was contained in the wall plug but at the same time, I failed to appreciate that the Tab was designed to prevent an over current situation.
...now let's see what happens when I give this puppy 15A AC...damn, melted the usb cable...
@dph3055
I knew what you meant, but some others on here probably wouldn't.
I've seen a lot of threads saying using a 'too powerful' charger will damage the battery.
It just won't.
Sent from my C5303 using Tapatalk 4
As far as I know the charger that comes with the phone is QC3 with a maximum output of 18 watts. So how is it possible to have the phone charging at 31.5 watts based on these numbers shown while charging? 2.625A×12V is 31.5 watts.
the charger should have 18 watts output. So it doesn't make sense. Are these values correct or is it showing wrong charging data??
please help me understand what's going on and how could this make sense.
I'm using the latest Nitrogen OS stable build with the kernel that's coming together with the ROM, charger is the one supplied with the phone.
it uses 5v not 12
bravo2526 said:
it uses 5v not 12
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Not true. The stock charger has three different modes 5V with 2.5A (12.5watts) / 9V with 2A (18 watts) / 12v with 1.5A (18watts) see the image below.
donnelldouglas said:
Not true. The stock charger has three different modes 5V with 2.5A (12.5watts) / 9V with 2A (18 watts) / 12v with 1.5A (18watts) see the image below.
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I'm usually charging with 3000-3320 mah
The other thing that caught my attention is that the Amperage and Voltage stay constant and it doesn't get lower after the battery 80-90% charged... this is very unusual as the chargers normally start reducing the Amperage and Voltage at that point, but not in this case...
D1stRU3T0R said:
I'm usually charging with 3000-3320 mah
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That's even more confusing to be honest!....with how many Volts? is it with the original charger?
I don't understand how can the charger perform much more than the rated values that is written on it, and if it can then why is it not advertised as a 30+ watts charger?!
Pretty sure the voltage/current sent by the charger gets converted to 5V xxxxmA by the charge controller or the charger sends 5V at different currents.
I increased my poco fast charge current limit to around 3000+mA from the 2800mA default which already shows that it probably charges on 5V.
Power meter shows 18-19W and phone shows around 3000mA. Makes it pretty obvious that the phone is being charged with 5V.
That's only my understanding it can be true or false.
donnelldouglas said:
The other thing that caught my attention is that the Amperage and Voltage stay constant and it doesn't get lower after the battery 80-90% charged... this is very unusual as the chargers normally start reducing the Amperage and Voltage at that point, but not in this case...
That's even more confusing to be honest!....with how many Volts? is it with the original charger?
I don't understand how can the charger perform much more than the rated values that is written on it, and if it can then why is it not advertised as a 30+ watts charger?!
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Yes, original charger. Just flash extreme kernel with crystals magisk mode and you will have the same. It's safe.