Hi,
In the attached picture you can see my old screen on the right and my new screen on the left. I'm following a youtube tutorial (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65pvAINg2ME&feature=g-hist) and I got to this part.
The old screen has this golden strip on the top right, while the new screen front doesn't have this. There's also a cable coming from the screen through frame and on my original screen it's linked to that golden strip. The left screen also has this cable (it's facing towards the camera, so hard to see) but there's nothing I can link it to. (There is a 'metal' strip where the golden strip should be, but the texture is completely different)
- What is that cable for?
- Should I try to remove the golden strip
- Will the metal be enough to conduct the data?
Thanks!
Dauntless said:
Hi,
In the attached picture you can see my old screen on the right and my new screen on the left. I'm following a youtube tutorial (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65pvAINg2ME&feature=g-hist) and I got to this part.
The old screen has this golden strip on the top right, while the new screen front doesn't have this. There's also a cable coming from the screen through frame and on my original screen it's linked to that golden strip. The left screen also has this cable (it's facing towards the camera, so hard to see) but there's nothing I can link it to. (There is a 'metal' strip where the golden strip should be, but the texture is completely different)
- What is that cable for?
- Should I try to remove the golden strip
- Will the metal be enough to conduct the data?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats more of related to the USB flex Board thing, like a conduit to the netwrk antenna and the metal strip with the new one is enough to do the wrk
Thanks!
I've put it back together and everything seems to be working.
Related
So I performed pretty much a full teardown. I left the screen in the front of the case, because I didn't really see a point in taking it off.
I had an Otterbox Defender before, but I took it back to Best Buy and picked up the Platinum Surface Case (Blue), so that is in one of the pictures. Everything else is stock.
Anyway, on with the information!
--------------------------------------------------------------
The Camera button is loose! I found out why! The metal bar that runs below the button and the switch is only held in place with two screws that are on the far ends of the button and switch.
When you press down, the button actually bends the bar slightly before pressing fully. When I pressed the button in, it would feel like there were two clicks. Apparently the first click was just the metal button pressing down and touching the actual button (on the chip), and the second click was the actual button press.
I implemented the most ghetto fix ever for this (insert your jokes here). I literally took two thin cuts of packaging cardboard (from a super-glue box), and taped them together. They were about 1/16" thick each, so total it ended up just over 1/8" thick. Then it just rests in-between the metal beam, and the back plate for the phone (the piece the battery rests in). I was thinking of soldering something on, but then it would be a permanent change to the phone, which I didn't want.
The button on my phone is now rock-solid, and doesn't move at all unless pressed in. It now feels solid to the touch, and the only press that happens is the actual camera press. It feels much better now with this, but it makes me laugh to think of how I fixed it.
Chips on the board(s), in order of location. Each / represents a new line on the chips.
*Note: Not all chips are clearly labeled or easily identified.
Back of board - Facing up when looking at the phone face down
Top left chip (small chip):
AVAG0 / AFEM-S257 / P1121 / 60HG
Left chip (big chip middle left):
Samsung 119 / KMKLL[Can't make out letters here because of gold blob]UM-B406 / FDCA009B
Right bottom chip:
TPS / 65051 / TI 141 / A1D0
Right top chip:
ATMEL / MXT224 / C12QS509 / f2X774.1E
Front of board - Facing down when looking at the phone face down
*Note - The layout of the chips will be reversed if the board is still facing down. The layout is when the board is flipped over so you can actually see it.
Left chip:
PMM8160 / A10025.1 / F7117001
Top right chip:
SEQUANS / Communications / SQN1210 / PAN279.00.S 1 / 1121 / SGP
Also on this chip there is a circle with "e1" in it, and a rectangle with "G" in it.
Bottom right chip:
QUALCOMM / MSM8660 / BAU215.0 / C1119101
I believe the chip for the wifi is on the bottom of the phone? I could be wrong, might be GPS.
Front:
50H00649-32M-A / 2011/03/23
Back:
UT0020 C / 94V-0 / 1118
Chips attached to dual cameras
Small chip furthest away from cams:
6U7476 / 1091
Middle chip (biggest one):
1110 3M / SHARP / LR388G92 / JAPAN
Sticker in-between cams:
S100HA / 43035
Front LED and Front Camera chips
Small chip near camera:
168E6P / 1980
Big chip on side:
50H20371-51M-A 12 / 03/24/2011
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no idea if this information will help anyone with anything, but there it is. I tried to include as much detail as possible when I was looking at the chips and information on the boards.
Unmodified Pictures (Hosted on 4shared) all here: http://www.4shared.com/folder/2Ya7fS9_/FullPics.html
*Warning - Photos are not even shrunk in size. They are big pictures! 4608x3456
Modified Pictures (Hosted on 4shared) all here: http://www.4shared.com/folder/a8ndxVF0/ModifiedPics.html
*Note that these are all the pictures that are shown
Sorry about the images being hosted like this. I can only upload 8 pictures for attachments. I figured this would be the easiest method.
You can see them in a bigger size by clicking the picture you want to see.
These are out of order. They are in alphabetical order, not teardown order. Only one out of alphabetical order is the first one.
heh..so this is whatudoin
you couldn't zip those pics up on 4shared ..wow 3 pages ..lol
j/k
Lol I like how you point out Samsung hardware is in the 3d. :b good job. Now put it back together just how you got it! Or I'm telling mom
sent from my beasto 3d
Great pics thanks for posting them.
I get were your coming from on pad out but a little taken off on directions.
hmm I will hold tight for breakdown video that will show different angles of project.
sling said:
Great pics thanks for posting them.
I get were your coming from on pad out but a little taken off on directions.
hmm I will hold tight for breakdown video that will show different angles of project.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is about the easiest thing ever.
It is literally like this:
Camera button
Metal bar
Little ghetto fix
Back piece plastic
There is nothing in-between, and nothing holding it there other than the pressure of the case squeezing it. I didn't want to permanently modify the case. It's just a two pieces of packing cardboard taped together, but anything could be used.
It sits behind where the button is pressed, so it couldn't possibly interfere with the button, and it sits under the back plate of the phone, so it can be taken out if you just pop the back plate off.
Harfainx said:
It is about the easiest thing ever.
It is literally like this:
Camera button
Metal bar
Little ghetto fix
Back piece plastic
There is nothing in-between, and nothing holding it there other than the pressure of the case squeezing it. I didn't want to permanently modify the case. It's just a two pieces of packing cardboard taped together, but anything could be used.
It sits behind where the button is pressed, so it couldn't possibly interfere with the button, and it sits under the back plate of the phone, so it can be taken out if you just pop the back plate off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ha ok I see were your coming from in pic.
Was the back cover tricky difficult to detach?
sling said:
Was the back cover tricky difficult to detach?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take the back cover off, battery out, SD card out.
Size T5 Torx screwdriver for the 4 corner screws, 2 NO:000 phillips-head screws for the middle two.
Then take a credit card and run it around the corners, and they just pop loose.
You shouldn't have to apply any force to remove it.
To do it though, you do have to break the little "security seal" that's on the bottom right torx screw. They put it there so they can tell if someone has opened up their phone.
Harfainx said:
Take the back cover off, battery out, SD card out.
Size T5 Torx screwdriver for the 4 corner screws, 2 NO:000 phillips-head screws for the middle two.
Then take a credit card and run it around the corners, and they just pop loose.
You shouldn't have to apply any force to remove it.
To do it though, you do have to break the little "security seal" that's on the bottom right torx screw. They put it there so they can tell if someone has opened up their phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right on thanks much.
Ive owned mine for 2 days & have 7 day disassemble rule so next week I will get it done.
I was under the impression there was supposed to be 2 clicks with the camera button anyway. the first click focus's the camera and the second takes the photo.
Am I missing something?
btw, wish you would of looked a lil more at the 3d-2d switch and seen the reasoning for its loose play front to back. The thing is tight switching from top to bottom(3d->2D) but has lotta play front to back it seems.
sweet pics though, thanks for the tear down!
I'm pretty sure that the two click system was intentional...
First click is focus, second is take photo.
Lintrix said:
I'm pretty sure that the two click system was intentional...
First click is focus, second is take photo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sgt. slaughter said:
I was under the impression there was supposed to be 2 clicks with the camera button anyway. the first click focus's the camera and the second takes the photo.
Am I missing something?
btw, wish you would of looked a lil more at the 3d-2d switch and seen the reasoning for its loose play front to back. The thing is tight switching from top to bottom(3d->2D) but has lotta play front to back it seems.
sweet pics though, thanks for the tear down!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You 2 are correct, that 2 click system is there for a reason. One to focus and the 2nd to actually take the picture, much like all digital cameras.
Nice pics of the disassemble btw.
Lintrix said:
I'm pretty sure that the two click system was intentional...
First click is focus, second is take photo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be that way, but I feel like it's much more responsive now. Before it would be wobbly and take a few presses before it would actually work, or I'd have to hold the button for a bit. Now the button is much snappier.
The switch isn't loose at all now, it requires a bit of force to move the switch either way. There is a clear click sound whenever it gets pressed either way.
Harfainx said:
The switch isn't loose at all now, it requires a bit of force to move the switch either way. There is a clear click sound whenever it gets pressed either way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
/thumbs up/
I like that! Either way, Kudos on being a brave man to open her up and perform the surgery blind =P
I recently bought a cheap used UK Titan x310e for use as a spare to flash etc but noticed the camera side button is completely broken, Not a problem I thought I can use a shortcut tile, For normal photos I can press screen to take shots but for panoramic or burst shots the side button is only way to do it,
Hard resets are not a problem as I can use the boot loader method.
It is a minor niggle I know but wondered if there was a way around it just in case I ever decide to pass it on
Thanks in advance.
Ive also got a similar issue - I removed the out casing yesterday to give it a clean out inside as i found it gets full of dust and all kinda of rubbish, how the camera button appears to be depressed. I assume its not lined up on the micro switch but i cannot resolve this - any ideas or tips?
EDIT: Resolved - little bit of careful tweaking of the micro switch button with a razorblade and all is good.
Symondo said:
Ive also got a similar issue - I removed the out casing yesterday to give it a clean out inside as i found it gets full of dust and all kinda of rubbish, how the camera button appears to be depressed. I assume its not lined up on the micro switch but i cannot resolve this - any ideas or tips?
EDIT: Resolved - little bit of careful tweaking of the micro switch button with a razorblade and all is good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Titan camera button is broken. When I opened it a very small bit of plastic fell off. I wonder whether I could replace it myself rather than send the phone to HTC (I need it permanently).
I thhink it broke when I removed the HTC from a cheap simulated leather cover with hard plastic sides that are ok from inserting but not taking the device out.
Hi there,
my girlfriend smashed her Galaxy S3 sometimes. Now it's done, the glass is broken in the upper left corner. The screen worked fine. A few days later she dropped it and dropped it again... i think she needs some wooden sticks to make a bushfire to call her friends. After some drops the screen stopped working fine. The screen turns black and if i push the upper left side a bit, the screen apears... very purple. I watched some tutorials about replacing the glass'. So i opend the galaxy s3 checked the ribboncables and after reasembling the screen won't start anymore. The softkeys doesn't apears. The phone is booting and make sounds. That means, power is there but no power for the display. I only want to now if the display is okay or not, to buy a new glass. But now i have these power problem. Somebody know how i can fix it? Or do i need a new display with digitizer? It's not cheap... a glass is much ceaper .
Zebra1234 said:
Hi there,
my girlfriend smashed her Galaxy S3 sometimes. Now it's done, the glass is broken in the upper left corner. The screen worked fine. A few days later she dropped it and dropped it again... i think she needs some wooden sticks to make a bushfire to call her friends. After some drops the screen stopped working fine. The screen turns black and if i push the upper left side a bit, the screen apears... very purple. I watched some tutorials about replacing the glass'. So i opend the galaxy s3 checked the ribboncables and after reasembling the screen won't start anymore. The softkeys doesn't apears. The phone is booting and make sounds. That means, power is there but no power for the display. I only want to now if the display is okay or not, to buy a new glass. But now i have these power problem. Somebody know how i can fix it? Or do i need a new display with digitizer? It's not cheap... a glass is much ceaper .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multiple posts on the subject including a you tube video on replacing .You need to search them and decide .
Accessories may have more information .
jje
Not sure how that happened...
Thanks in advance for looking.
Ordered a screen replacement for my wife's busted S3 screen. Got it, followed directions....got the area around the headphone jack a little too warm, but continued and finished removing the screen. Once I had the screen off, I thought it would be a good idea to power it up to make sure everything was working, especially the top left corner of the screen that was closest to the over heated spot.
To my skeptical surprise everything was cool. Took a picture, looked at some higher res pictures....just to make sure everything seemed normal, to which it did. Powered down, removed the battery and the SIM card and continued on.
I cleaned the screen with alcohol as the directions stated, put everything back together..and NOTHING. The thing is bricked. Any ideas how? I wasn't doing anything remotely related/close to the ROM. The only difficulty I had with any part of this (aside from the aforementioned over heating) was with the two ribbon buttons at the bottom, which got slightly tangled in the tape.
Before I attempt to 'unbrick' this does anyone have any other ideas? Battery is good, phone has been plugged/unplugged while attempting to power up....I didn't take anything else apart so I can't think of anything else that would have goofed up this phone.
If your LCD was broken a new bit of glass wouldn't fix it. It's almost impossible to change just the glass without damaging the digitizer. Most alcohol will destroy an LCD so cleaning it with that is a terrible idea. If you plug your phone into a computer see if it connects, that will at least tell you that the phone is still working, just broken display.
DrFredPhD said:
If your LCD was broken a new bit of glass wouldn't fix it. It's almost impossible to change just the glass without damaging the digitizer. Most alcohol will destroy an LCD so cleaning it with that is a terrible idea. If you plug your phone into a computer see if it connects, that will at least tell you that the phone is still working, just broken display.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome. Per the instructions: "clean screen with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any excess glue"
Plugged in or otherwise, I get no LEDs, vibrations....nothing. Wondering if a jtag would even be worth it?
I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
please elaborate
speedman2202 said:
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello speedman and OP.
Speedman, can you please elaborate on your answer.
I am refering to this part of your answer ".... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... ".
The reason I am asking is that I had epiphany two days ago that didn't end well, but the journey was rewarding.
I was thinking, ok Kindle 3 (keyboard) has a better screen that nook ST (contrast). I really like my rooted nook. Both things are made in China, by same manufacturer.
I will make an uber device and fit a kindle 3 screen on nook. (I am not a technical person, but i do love my rooted nook, may he rest in peace).
I was really close, and was able to connect kindle screen to nook simple touch battery and motherboard. And it worked, it showed nook screen on my half opened kindle keyboard. Unfortunately, I got overzealous in attempt of removing screen from nook simple touch (bloody silicone), and screen broke. At this point all my confidence was gone. I reassembled kindle 3 fast, so at least i have one device safe.
So, my question is, if i actually try to do this again (30 gbp for nook st these days), will i have touch capabilities, that is: where is the bloody infrared, on the eink screen? haven't seen anything special there....
I was so happy when I sow OP question.....and than cold shower......
The infrared touch module is attached to the bezel of the Nook, has no connection to the e-ink screen. I think that the panels are identical as far as specs, not sure about the connections though. Any difference in contrast has to do with the software, not the panel itself.
OB
Sent from my Evo V 4G using Tapatalk 2
dkuku said:
I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont do it - I have also ordered ED060SCE and the seller send me ED060SC7 - I put it in the device and it didn't work. I ordered later a second one and I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd - I ordered a second nook with broken lcd and in this unit the new lcd worked like charm
dkuku said:
I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
trurlo said:
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
dkuku said:
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
trurlo said:
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
dkuku said:
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
trurlo said:
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as I look close then I see they aren't connected to GND - I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
dkuku said:
I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, that helps a lot - while they might not be connected to GND, they seem to be organized in a simple 2x2 matrix - I can see a path connecting two outer rings in the upper part of the PCB - that would mean I can extend these 2 buttons easily with a 3-pin connector. That would be enough.
I will let you know if it works out.
The question of keyboard stuff is continued here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2434722
trurlo said:
I will let you know if it works out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the result. Thanks for your help. And thanks to Renate for confirmation of the pinouts.
I think maybe put a screen Kindle 3 in Nook. Datasheet are almost identical. Waveform is in firmware 1.2.1 for display...
I can confirm the e-ink screen for Kindle Keyboard can be put into Nook Simple Touch, working beautifully. Just be careful when taking NST apart, because the e-ink screen is VERY tightly glued to the back panel, using some kind of strong double sided tape. I ended up cracking it...
Hi all,
I broke my screen and ordered a new one (without frame). Replacing it was easy (after waiting for it for more than a month... thanks COVID-19), except that I was dumb enough to miss it was using a ZIF connector, and forced-push the cable in (shame on me).
It broke some pins, at first I didn't even notice but when looking at some stuff I took a picture off, it clearly appeared some colors were... unusual (pink instead of green ). So I double checked and indeed, pins had been damaged.
Anyway, to my question: do you know by any chance where I could find a screen frame (which comes with the fcc cable the zif connector is soldered on)? I only found frames with the screen attached and of course I don't need another new screen...
I checked ebay, but the ones I found don't look at all like the original.
I'd also be interested by the cable alone, but it would be way harder to put back in place I guess (as it's also holding front sensors).
If someone has a dead Mi Mix 3, it could also be helpful...
Thanks!
EDIT: nevermind, Amaan at Cellspare.com did an awesome job finding the flex cable and adding it to their listing when I asked him for help! Everything's getting better now