So, I bought this HTC Amaze on Craigslist with a broken digitizer for $80 which wasn't a bad deal at all. Everything is working on it, I already rooted it, SIM Unlocked it etc. Today the parts came in to replace the screen. While taking it apart, the Power Button Flex Cable ripped I found a replacement part on eBay and already ordered it. Now, it's not one of those clamp connectors, that would be too easy, it looks like one of those iPod ones. What is the best way to adhere it to the motherboard itself? I took two screenshots of an Amaze motherboard with attached power button flex cable so you can see how it should be attached and a second picture with the part I ordered. Any help is greatly appreciated !!
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Here is another picture from a listing on eBay. I am almost certain that it simply needs to be glued on there, so the 4 contacts of the on/off button flex cable have contact with the contacts on the motherboard itself.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...858?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337f6c6362
Anyone? Nobody knows? I am getting desperate here
It may be bonded but not with anything you are used to using.. OEM manufacturers use special glue For electronics..
This stuff is no joke.. Regular glues will degrade the board and proximate solder joints dramatically and within a few days
I would bring it to a repair shop..
I'm sur you don't want to buy a $25 tiny bottle of glue to use 2 drops
Henkel is the new owners of loctite (6 years).. They make the most prominent brand.. You then will need to properly clean the board and seal the connection.. A proper shop should fix this real cheap if you bring it disassembled and ready
Sig:
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kazzxtrismus said:
It may be bonded but not with anything you are used to using.. OEM manufacturers use special glue For electronics..
This stuff is no joke.. Regular glues will degrade the board and proximate solder joints dramatically and within a few days
I would bring it to a repair shop..
I'm sur you don't want to buy a $25 tiny bottle of glue to use 2 drops
Henkel is the new owners of loctite (6 years).. They make the most prominent brand.. You then will need to properly clean the board and seal the connection.. A proper shop should fix this real cheap if you bring it disassembled and ready
Sig:
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kazzxtrismus, first of all, thank you very much for replying I believe you are talking about a conductive glue like "CircuitWriter", correct? I am willing to pay the $ 25 at RadioShack, as long as I can get this phone working again I just contacted HTC and asked them about the "CircuitWriter" conductive glue before I go out and spend the money on it I am still mad at myself that I wasn't more careful while taking the phone apart Hopefully they'll get back to me soon I went to two different cell phone repair shops yesterday and asked them how to do it properly and they had no idea. It's very frustrating LOL I know that it's not soldered which is great, micro-soldering really sucks unless you have 20/20 vision (which I don't have) LOL
I used to sell board level components and chemistry to oem's..
I would not recommend anything from radio shack.. For this type of application..
Their are a few flex circuit manufacturers that may offer to fix it on a "personal favour level"
But that's a stretch
Call any local supplier..
Ask to PICKUP a sample of the glue.. Do your research on how to use .. And Offer them the $20 for the sample
Usually something like this uses Conductive paste like a solder pad.. Basically soldering with glue... Ugh!
I'd want to see the "as broken" pic.. Sometimes you can fix with fine wire or another flex and solder the gold traces together with "elite" grade solder and a high end manufacturers grade soldering station ($400).. No.. A hako won't do it
Weller/cooper wm2 and fine tips
Sig:
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ok, I took two pictures of my currently non-functional Amaze, the first one is of the motherboard connector and the second one is of the broken power button flex cable. I don't think that my broken power button cable can be salvaged. It definitely kicked the bucket when I disassembled the phone. The third picture is of the replacement part that I ordered.
Ok.. So the special glue is probably around the fingers not in between.. It's probably clamped in place for curing and the holes look like they are for alignment..
If it feels like caulking, it may be.. But NOT regular caulking.. Regular caulking has ammonia in it.. That's like flesh eating disease for electronics!..
If you try this yourself metering the glue will be tough... Just enough for the bead to be taller than the gap.. But not so tall as to ooze into the fingers...
Then "clamping" is also gonna need to be accurate even with the alignment pin holes.. You don't want anything less than perfection as the fingers need to stay aligned while curing.. Tape is a good idea for holing alignment, but, parallelism needs to be maintained too....
Good luck big guy... It is possible but I don't envy your task
Sig:
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kazzxtrismus said:
Ok.. So the special glue is probably around the fingers not in between.. It's probably clamped in place for curing and the holes look like they are for alignment..
If it feels like caulking, it may be.. But NOT regular caulking.. Regular caulking has ammonia in it.. That's like flesh eating disease for electronics!..
If you try this yourself metering the glue will be tough... Just enough for the bead to be taller than the gap.. But not so tall as to ooze into the fingers...
Then "clamping" is also gonna need to be accurate even with the alignment pin holes.. You don't want anything less than perfection as the fingers need to stay aligned while curing.. Tape is a good idea for holing alignment, but, parallelism needs to be maintained too....
Good luck big guy... It is possible but I don't envy your task
Sig:
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I really appreciate all the help and input from you !! This is definitely an undertaking that I am not looking forward to I think this whole power button flex cable setup was poorly designed by HTC, a regular clamp connector would have been just fine LOL Besides this little annoyance, it's an awesome phone though
What if the part comes with the adhesive already on it, that is possible too, right? In that case, I would just stick it on there and hope for the best? I remember that when I separated the old, broken power button flex cable from the motherboard, it was STUCK on there, I mean, I had to take it off with some force, that is why the metal pins are bent (and one actually fell off).
I am a gal btw, one of few who are into this kind of stuff I own a small computer repair and smartphone repair business here in Jacksonville FL
Awesomeness!!
Nothing better than a lady in the house!..
I highly doubt the glue comes with..
Yes htc pooched the design here.. But it does make for more room on the board and keeps the connection sealed.. Still.. Stupid tho..
If the fingers were glued / bonded (which I doubt) their are "crazy glue" like agents available too.. I'd call Henkel or look at the website first tho.
Your comment about it being stuck /glued really good tell me it may be more of an encapsulent.. I'd have to smell it.. If it smells like an automotive body shop then probably is an encapsulent used a little differently... Encapsulates are usually 2 part.. Like epoxy
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---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------
I just used my computer to take a better look at the pics.. It's glued between the fingers..
Is the glue hard?
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kazzxtrismus said:
Awesomeness!!
Nothing better than a lady in the house!..
I highly doubt the glue comes with..
Yes htc pooched the design here.. But it does make for more room on the board and keeps the connection sealed.. Still.. Stupid tho..
If the fingers were glued / bonded (which I doubt) their are "crazy glue" like agents available too.. I'd call Henkel or look at the website first tho.
Your comment about it being stuck /glued really good tell me it may be more of an encapsulent.. I'd have to smell it.. If it smells like an automotive body shop then probably is an encapsulent used a little differently... Encapsulates are usually 2 part.. Like epoxy
Sig:
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---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------
I just used my computer to take a better look at the pics.. It's glued between the fingers..
Is the glue hard?
Sig:
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Girl Power !! hehe I can't really tell if the glue is hard or not, there is no glue on the broken power button flex cable at all. It looks like the 4 metal connectors on the motherboard itself are a little raised actually, that might make this whole thing a little easier, hopefully. If the replacement part doesn't have any adhesive already on it, I am almost thinking that if I use 3M 2mm double sided tape around the new power button flex cable, that that could be sufficient for the contacts on the motherboard and on the power button flex cable to have contact. Plus, the front facing camera flex cable is right on top of the power button flex cable, so that should be pushing the whole thing down as well (I guess that was HTC's intention when they came up with this design).
I am really hoping that the replacement part already has the adhesive on it :fingers-crossed:.
PS: I love your signature by the way
Try poking at the glue with a dental pick.. with the experience of a tech you'll know if it's hard or glassy or rubbery.. You'll probably also know if the top layer is soft and inside is hard..
Don't try to remove the glue.
A hard under soft = encapsulent (usually)
a full hard = tamper proof encapsulent.. cry!
Rubbery = caulking
Sig:
What do you mean I can't say that??!!.. It's the fkin Internet!
kazzxtrismus said:
Try poking at the glue with a dental pick.. with the experience of a tech you'll know if it's hard or glassy or rubbery.. You'll probably also know if the top layer is soft and inside is hard..
Don't try to remove the glue.
A hard under soft = encapsulent (usually)
a full hard = tamper proof encapsulent.. cry!
Rubbery = caulking
Sig:
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Good thing we have dental picks from a laptop repair Well, it feels like it's smooth on top, but that could be from the broken part itself, like it's residue or a coating or so. It also looks like the connectors on the motherboard don't have anything on them. That's a good thing, right?
I'm suspecting that is an encapsulent..
You may be able to use a pin file to make room for new glue.. Don't take all of it off.. Just make space so the new flex cable fingers will make good contact..
This is only a good idea when you have the new cable.. Wait till it comes in and see what you have to work with..
I highly doubt it'll come with glue.
There shouldn't be anything on those fingers... Ever.. Each finger and it's glue cannot touch each other unless the glue is non conductive..
You will need to find non conductive electronics grade adhesive..
There are different kinds of conductivity.
Conductive
Esd (electro static dissipative)
Capacitative
Insulating... This is what you want..
Sig:
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kazzxtrismus said:
I'm suspecting that is an encapsulent..
You may be able to use a pin file to make room for new glue.. Don't take all of it off.. Just make space so the new flex cable fingers will make good contact..
This is only a good idea when you have the new cable.. Wait till it comes in and see what you have to work with..
I highly doubt it'll come with glue.
There shouldn't be anything on those fingers... Ever.. Each finger and it's glue cannot touch each other unless the glue is non conductive..
You will need to find non conductive electronics grade adhesive..
There are different kinds of conductivity.
Conductive
Esd (electro static dissipative)
Capacitative
Insulating... This is what you want..
Sig:
What do you mean I can't say that??!!.. It's the fkin Internet!
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I just checked the tracking information from eBay and the part will be here tomorrow I'll take a picture of it once I have it in hand and post it here and let you know if it comes with adhesive already on there Thank you so much for all your help and input !!
You are very welcome..
Just remember that "placement" is going to be the hard part..
The fingers will need to be WELL aligned and COMPLETELY clean of the adhesive.
THEN it needs to stay that way until the glue has cured.. Please also remember that too much glue will cause the glue to squish between the fingers keeping the flex away /up & off the main contacts
Good luck
Sig:
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I am undertaking doing this my self. I will be using some graphite conductive glue. I'll let you know how things go.
dwind said:
I am undertaking doing this my self. I will be using some graphite conductive glue. I'll let you know how things go.
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So I assume that you are in the same jam I am in? Did you order the part yet? My replacement power button flex cable will arrive here in the mail today. From what kazzxtrismus said, and I agree with him, we only need glue AROUND the connector fingers, not on the fingers themselves. Therefore, conductive glue might not be the right stuff to use in our case. I am really hoping that the replacement part comes with adhesive already applied and it's a "stick and be done with it" undertaking I'll let you know how it goes
UPDATE: The part came in the mail and of course - there is no glue on it (go figure, my luck !!).
I attempted to attach the replacement part with just a little bit of double sided tape above and below the area with the "fingers" and I put a very thin foam piece on top to press the whole thing down, making sure that the "fingers" are directly on the contacts of the motherboard. Well, that didn't work. I called a local cell phone repair shop (CPR - Cell Phone Repair) and talked to a guy who specializes in HTC phones, especially the HTC Amaze 4G which he can disassemble in about 2 minutes, so he said. I am going to take my phone there tomorrow and have it fixed. He said he'd take pictures and he'd let me know what he did to get it to work again and I'll be more than happy to share my newly aquired knowledge with all of you. I really don't want to do it the wrong way and then make things worse than they already are and having to buy another part and wait more time, still not knowing the correct way to fix this.
UPDATE: I drove to CPR this morning and talked to the lead technician there. Bad news. He said he has tried to fix these type of connectors about 100 times and NEVER got them to work again. He said that HTC uses a cold press (that costs about $100K) and a special chemical to adhere/attach the power button flex cables I am not ready to give up yet though. I *could* use the phone as my secondary phone by being always on and turning it on through adb. Not good enough for me I'll try to remove any possible residue on the connectors on the motherboard itself and try again. I really don't have anything to lose but everything to gain and I am NOT a quitter either
Q] Broken Power Flex Cable - how to attach replacement part?
Well no gold cigar yet. The graphite glue is not controllable enough. I can't place it and leave it. So with the fingers being close together; it is highly possible that you would have bleed over. So what I did was take the some finger nail polish and just brush the areas away from the fingers. Well the phone powers on, but continues to power on and off..without a need for the flex button. So I will start over and try to set it better.
I remember taking apart my hd2 to replace the screen because my brother dropped it on a tile floor. I thought it would be any easy task since I replaced the screen on a g2 I got for $50 just fine. When I took the thing apart I broke the actual ribbon cable connector for the LCD and found a replacement on amazon. I then took it to multiple different repair shops and nobody said they could fix it.
I then ended up buying another hd2 with a cracked screen but this time was very careful when I took it apart. Later, when I flashed android nand to it I found out that the bastard gave me an hd2 with a defective motherboard, causing the phone to freeze every time I used it.
I eventually just ended up selling it for $100 on craigslist along with the parts from the other hd2 since I was getting a new phone soon anyway and had a g2 to live with.
Moral of the story... Don't let your clumsy brother touch your precious tech. (He is only two years younger than me too)
I still bug him about it too because I really loved that phone.
You're lucky only a ribbon cable broke!!
Sent from my Jelly Beaned HTC Amaze!
Related
I tried to fix my GPS problem with the Hardware fix and accidently broke the cheap lead that you need slightly bend.
what can I do to fix my GPS?
You'll need to build some solder up on it, then file it flat to the right height so it makes good contact with the antenna, I broke mine as well on my 1st phone, but the up side is, using the solder buildup made for awesome sat reception, my 2nd phone i used hard plastic between the c shaped brass contact to keep it elevated so it wouldn't lose tension, but the solder still has it as the best, but in your scenario u have no their choice now, short of replacing the MB or maybe josh at mobile tech in Texas may be able to solder another contact on, but again that means sending it to him= down time with the phone plus added$$ as well, but those are your choices right now, Good Luck, if you don't know how to solder find someone who can with a sharp pointed iron otherwise you or them will destroy the board, and don't forget to use flux and prep the broken piece clean so the solder will adhere.
i broke the tab off too many months back and unfortunately i don't have great soldering skills or the correct soldering iron either i improvised and bought a piece of copper wiring at Home Depot, i bought a foot of it, but you only really need like 1mm of it.. once cut i filed it down enough so that it can make contact on both sides as well as put a piece of tape to make a pseudo-blockade so the piece of copper is secure when closed. It's not the first choice of repair, but if you are out of options this might work for you. The best accuracy I can get with this method is around 30-50feet average (outdoors). it can never get better than that, i am assuming because the signal isn't getting transferred optimally.
I wouldnt do this If I were you
candyman123 said:
i broke the tab off too many months back and unfortunately i don't have great soldering skills or the correct soldering iron either i improvised and bought a piece of copper wiring at Home Depot, i bought a foot of it, but you only really need like 1mm of it.. once cut i filed it down enough so that it can make contact on both sides as well as put a piece of tape to make a pseudo-blockade so the piece of copper is secure when closed. It's not the first choice of repair, but if you are out of options this might work for you. The best accuracy I can get with this method is around 30-50feet average (outdoors). it can never get better than that, i am assuming because the signal isn't getting transferred optimally.
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First of all candyman, not flaming you or disrespecting you, but I think that's a very BAD suggestion, because if that piece of copper ever becomes dislodged, say to dropping the phone and it drifts into the MB or anything that's carrying current thru it, it will short over to whatever each end touches, and that would be catastrophic for the Phone, and would truly be a Totally Hard-bricked situation, the phone would have to be rebuilt with new components that were affected by the shorting. Just saying that anytime you have a unsecured piece of metal moving around circuitry, its just a matter of time before it shorts out. Soldering is still his best option or send to Josh at Mobile tech.
dseldown said:
First of all candyman, not flaming you or disrespecting you, but I think that's a very BAD suggestion, because if that piece of copper ever becomes dislodged, say to dropping the phone and it drifts into the MB or anything that's carrying current thru it, it will short over to whatever each end touches, and that would be catastrophic for the Phone, and would truly be a Totally Hard-bricked situation, the phone would have to be rebuilt with new components that were affected by the shorting. Just saying that anytime you have a unsecured piece of metal moving around circuitry, its just a matter of time before it shorts out. Soldering is still his best option or send to Josh at Mobile tech.
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haha thank you for the serious concern and i have thought about the dangers myself and i know it's super ghetto fix but i do have a piece of tape covering the "side to side" movement of the copper piece so if it does somehow get dislodged it can't move anywhere. the "up and down" movement is being stopped by the sandwiching of the vibrant case/contacts.
although i do need to recheck/refile the copper piece down. i might consider a more safer/permanent fix
Hopefully your phone is under warranty.
Or you don't really use the GPS.
IDK Why???
kaintfm said:
Hopefully your phone is under warranty.
Or you don't really use the GPS.
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OMG, what is the problem here, soldering is about as easy as it gets, Hell cooking a meal is way more involved than soldering, IDK why people bail on simple fixes and immediately risk going for a warranty when it may kick you in the balls, when they open it up and discover the tab broke, and send ya a 399$ bill in your next invoice!!
help me pls, read this
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=22197595&postcount=941
So there's been a lot of questions on how to properly replace the LCD and/or Digitizer.
I bought my digitizer (v0.3) from www.all4cellular.com . The SKU for the digitizer I got was 440002396. If you order, call AND email their support to ensure you get a V0.3. I can not guarantee that they have them now. I bought my LCD ( still waiting) from eBay, a Chinese reseller. I've been waiting over a month for it now.
First off, you have to determine if the LCD or digitzer is busted.
1 - If you can't see anything on the screen, everything is full of lines and colorful you have a busted LCD, OR the cable may have come loose. Keep reading.
2 - If you can view the tablet and all it's goods, still use some touch stuff then your digitizer is busted.
3 - If you can't turn see anything on the LCD, the screen is full of cracks then chances are they are both busted.
4 - If you turn on the Prime, the screen is black, or anything else, either it's bricked or the LCD died. Get a mini-HDMI cable, hook to a TV and check it out.
So, you've determined that you have a busted ass screen. Yay
[COLOR=RoyalBlue)"]Disassembling : [/COLOR]
To remove the LCD/Digitizer from the backing you have to look at the 2 tabs that have rubber in them on the bottom of the tablet. There is a thread here on how to do it so I won't go further : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1479664
OK! Now you have that apart. Set your TF201 half with all the goods in a safe place. Might not hurt to use the internal switch to power it off. Post #2 in the above link shows how to do it. It's a small switch. Be careful from here on out. Disconnect the LCD and digitizer ribbons from the rear case. The digitizer ribbon comes off the backing, and the LCD will come off of the LCD screen itself (you have to reuse it, one does not come with any replacement LCD screens).
So now you have your TF201 in 2 pieces. Great
Lay the screen on a flat surface. DO NOT BEND THIS. The LCD will easily crack and bust. I was in a rush to do this and cracked my LCD. If I was to do it over again, I'd find a hardcover book of the same size, place it on the LCD to minimize any bending.
First, unscrew the screen from the digitizer frame (keep these somewhere safe), bend the tabs up out of the way. Take a plastic tool, if you have on, and take it and slip it between the 2 sided tape on the LCD. Here is a picture so you can see just how little you need to pry off.
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I would 100% recommend doing this with a space heater blowing on it to soften the tape, using a guitar pick or other hard slim piece of plastic to go around the edges. DO NOT flex the LCD up to see if it's cutting, do not put pressure on the back of the LCD. If you feel comfortable, you can use a Exacto knife (or scalpel) to cut it off.
When I was taking my busted LCD off after I realized my screen was broken I used a scalpel for part of it. I didn't give a crap as both LCD+digitizer were broken. If both are broke on yours, don't worry about being careful.
Here is a meh video showing a bit of it :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRU3AIWvXGY
Alright! So now you have the LCD and digitizer separated, w00t. If your LCD was broken, put the new one on. If it's still good, and the digitizer need replacing keep going. The hard part is over, now it's just the picky part.
I can not stress this enough : Any digitizer you buy will NOT come with the frame. The frame has the wifi + GPS antennas on them, as well as the screw holes for the LCD screen. If you've thrown out your digitizer without separating them, good luck in finding another.
So now you have the Digitizer and frame to separate. This was indeed a hassle as both are paper thin. Here is a picture showing how they are assembled (Although mine aren't yet, I have them laying together). This shows them separated so it gives a really good idea of what needs to be done :
Front view :
Rear view :
OK, if the tablet were together, pic 1 would be the screen facing up towards you, pic 2 shows the rear. The digitizer glass sits on the frame, held by glue. If your digitizer is broken (shattered) or just cracked, having it sitting in front of a heat source helps TREMENDOUSLY. The glue on the tape heats up and separates nicely.
Important to remember when doing this step : If you crack the frame it does NOT matter. If you break it it does NOT matter.
Why do I say this? Simple...the frame sits behind the digitizer. When you get the double sided tape to put on it to hold the digitzer in place it will also keep the frame held together without fear of anything happening. If it breaks in 2-3 pieces just tape them back up, this is not an issue as the digitizer and LCD are what gives the front it's strength. This is the reason why the front flexes and parts break. It's a design issue (imo) and should have been made much firmer, not flexible.
When I was separating the frame and digitizer, I went in from the back first to create an opening on the outside of the frame. I held the whole thing in front of my trusted space heater, let the tape warm up then slid my exacto knife between the 2 close to a corner, and twisted the knife a bit to get them to lift off eachother. Once I had a small gap, I pulled the knife out from the back and went in from the front around the edge. The reason I did this was the seam that you have to go into is a ***** to find, going in from the rear negates busting the frame and marking it up, plus it's a crapload easier to start this way.
Note : When doing this, it helps to keep a few pieces of paper the same length of the sides you're cutting (or cards). The tape glue resticks, sticking the paper or cards in keeps it separated nicely.
Here is what you'll be left with :
So now you have the LCD off the back of the digitizer, the digitizer and frame separated. It's at this point where you have to decide : Do I want this to be stuck back together like it was when I got it, or shall I use something a little more workable in case it decides to pull the same breaking stunt?
Pick your tape to re-assemble accordingly. I myself am using double sided permanent scotch tape. It's nice and sticky, but if necessary I can remove it easily in the future to fix any problems. Jgrimoldy suggested this because when you put it back together dust might slide in between the digitizer and LCD, and I 100% agree.
Putting back together :
Easy enough. Lay the frame down, apply the tape where it needs to be. Trim as necessary. Don't worry about having to touch the tape while trmming it, or it sticking out a bit. As you can see in the Rear View photo up there, you have plenty of lee-way. I would suggest leaving the plastic on the digitizer backing right up until you are ready to seat the LCD back on.
When you get to placing the LCD back on, a can of air might help a bit, or a cloth use to wipe off glasses. The LCD on the digitizer appears to have a foam type tape on it, it's your discretion if you peel it all off to clean it up nice (meh) or leave a layer of foam on it, place 2 sided tape over it and reassemble it. Personally, I'd leave the old foam tape on it (peel off any glossy layer showing) and put 2 sided back on it. Screws hold it in place and tighten it down anyways. The foam closes any gaps that let in particles.
If it's a new LCD and has plastic on it, hold the LCD upside down above the digitizer, remove the plastic off of it then off of the digitizer. Any dust in the air should be blocked off from falling on the digitizer. Have a quick peek at both, then stick them together. I am not totally sure on this step yet as I do not have a LCD to try with (yet). Most eBay LCD's I find appear to have some sort of trim around the edges, so I imagine all that's needs is a bit of tape placed around it, remove the plastic and slap it on.
So there you have it, how to take it apart and put back together.
I came to post a new topic but this might be what im after.
I
Maybe yoy could suggest if its the digitiser or not?
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
shoutman said:
I came to post a new topic but this might be what im after.
Maybe yoy could suggest if its the digitiser or not?
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
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The digitizer cracks could be seen easily and do not affect the LCD display. Looks like the LCD ribbon is loose on that. Open it up and try to see if playing with the ribbon fixes it. Usually if the LCD is cracked the whole screen is gone bonkers.
shoutman said:
I came to post a new topic but this might be what im after.
I
Maybe yoy could suggest if its the digitiser or not?
Thanks
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It apprears that your LCD got damaged. It's definitely NOT your digitizer. Your digitizer would be visibly cracked and it would not affect the image.
Most likely, your LCD got cracked. In my experience, and I've been a professional tech for decades, it's not a connection issue. Usually when you have a bad connection, your screen will have a substantial tint (red, green, or blue) or it would not work at all. When you have an isolated issue like you have shown in your picture where the whole screen isn't affected, it's a damaged LCD. Depending on where the LCD gets damaged, it can affect all or part of the screen (and it's often much more likely to be just a part of the screen).
Sorry to say.
Jgrimoldy said:
It apprears that your LCD got damaged. It's definitely NOT your digitizer. Your digitizer would be visibly cracked and it would not affect the image.
Most likely, your LCD got cracked. In my experience, and I've been a professional tech for decades, it's not a connection issue. Usually when you have a bad connection, your screen will have a substantial tint (red, green, or blue) or it would not work at all. When you have an isolated issue like you have shown in your picture where the whole screen isn't affected, it's a damaged LCD. Depending on where the LCD gets damaged, it can affect all or part of the screen (and it's often much more likely to be just a part of the screen).
Sorry to say.
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I had that happen to mine with the ribbon loose Jgrimoldy (what you see in the pic), then it'd turn green randomly. Pushed the cable back in and problem solved.
Nightpath said:
I had that happen to mine with the ribbon loose Jgrimoldy (what you see in the pic), then it'd turn green randomly. Pushed the cable back in and problem solved.
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I'd, of course, check the cable first. And definitely before ordering a replacment LCD. I have strong doubts and hope for the best.
Thanks for tge reply. How much is a replacement lcd going to cost?
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shoutman said:
Thanks for tge reply. How much is a replacement lcd going to cost?
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In the neighborhood of $100. If your order from China, significantly less, but the delivery delay will be measured using the geologic time scale. If you order from the U.S. (assuming you're in the U.S.), prolly a bit more, but you'll likely have it the same week.
If it turns out that the LCD is broken (which I hope is not the case), the MUCH harder part will be dis-assembling your Prime and removing the current LCD while not breaking your current digitizer.
If you have patience, reasonable dexterity, and are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult job. Let's put it this way: If you can change a tire, replace a light switch (safely), or put RAM in a desktop PC, this should not be a big deal. If you usually find friend/neighbor/relative to do these things for you, well...
Jgrimoldy said:
In the neighborhood of $100. If your order from China, significantly less, but the delivery delay will be measured using the geologic time scale. If you order from the U.S. (assuming you're in the U.S.), prolly a bit more, but you'll likely have it the same week.
If it turns out that the LCD is broken (which I hope is not the case), the MUCH harder part will be dis-assembling your Prime and removing the current LCD while not breaking your current digitizer.
If you have patience, reasonable dexterity, and are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult job. Let's put it this way: If you can change a tire, replace a light switch (safely), or put RAM in a desktop PC, this should not be a big deal. If you usually find friend/neighbor/relative to do these things for you, well...
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Im from ireland... and think I'll try find someone to fix it for me as I have a history of making things worse when trying to fix them.
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I ordered one from China well over a month ago, still have yet to see it but that's no surprise seeing as I'm in Canada. The bad thing about ordering from China is that they never want to give your money back. If you do go this route, order from eBay, then after the shipping time is over demand your money back on the first day that way they know you mean business.
I can't figure out whether my lcd or digitizer (or both) are broken. The screen is fully responsive, the colors are perfect, but if you look closely you can see the crack. You can also feel it with your fingers. The crack arised after clashing against a wall.
Atm it's not very disturbing, but i fear the crack might grow...
ozer86 said:
I can't figure out whether my lcd or digitizer (or both) are broken. The screen is fully responsive, the colors are perfect, but if you look closely you can see the crack. You can also feel it with your fingers. The crack arised after clashing against a wall.
Atm it's not very disturbing, but i fear the crack might grow...
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Click to collapse
It's the digitizer. If you can feel it with your fingers, it's definitely the digitizer. It's impossible to crack the LCD without having a significant effect on the image. Sorry to say that the crack will likely spread. Unless you're unrealistically careful with your TFP, it's almost guraranteed to spread.
The saddest thing happened today.
Took my TFP out today, had it sitting in the back of my car. My brother got in, his snowshoes TOUCHED my ****ing TFP and the digitizer broke. Again.
I'm replacing it 1 last time, going to sell the PoS once the case gets to me and get a different tablet. The weakness of that asshole digitizer just astounds me.
There's a nice tough looking Acer Iconia tablet with a Tegra 3 in it, it's 7" though but I'm through with this tablet.
UPDATE: So, the digitizer I bought developed a massive dead zone. I already contacted the amazon store I bought it from, they're replacing it for me. Why does this matter? Because now I get to update this post with pictures/video! So, yeah, I guess this guide should get a lot more helpful soon.
Update 2: Ok, so, I don't even know how to express my anger and frustration. This girl at work shoved my phone out of my hands and into the leg of a table, completely destroying my phone. So, yeah, sorry, I guess I won't be updating with pictures/video, because the amazon store isn't going to take the screen back now.
Yo, guys. If anyone noticed that I was gone, I'm flattered, since I don't post a lot. But yeah, I havent had my Optimus G in about a month, so I havent been on this forum. In that time, I went through my Second Motorola Atrix HD, a broken Galaxy S3, and even lived through Google Voice on my computer. It's an extremely long story, and kind of ridiculous, so I'll spare the details.
HOWEVER, I did finally just buy a replacement Digitizer and LCD screen, and successfully installed it, and I want to share tips for anyone doing it themselves.
When removing the back, after you've removed torx screws, start prying the back off from in between where the Sim card and MicroSD go. Where the back of the phone and the chassis of the phone are separate is much more obvious in that cavity, PLUS dents/dings from jamming a screwdriver in there wont be noticeable when you put the bay cover back on.
Don't force anything off. Make sure you've removed every screw, unclipped every clip, and removed ribbons from everything you're trying to take off.
Removing the battery is tricky. Be careful not to deform it too much, cause that's dangerous. But there are 2 strips of double sided tape running horizontally beneath the battery. Try to get something between the top one and the battery, then carefully pull the battery off the second strip with your hands. sticking too much stuff beneath it to pry it up is going to cause some trouble, so lifting it with your fingers might be better.
Remove the motherboard. detatch all the ribbons, antennae, everything, then pull up from the left, then slide left and out. This is how I got it out with the least resistance, but there is no science to it. If you've gotten this far, you can figure out how to pull it out without breaking it in half.
Components that need to be removed before LCD+Digitizer removal:
Motherboard
Battery
Camera
Just put them off to the side, you don't want them damaged during the next part.
WARNING! If you plan on saving your LCD screen, DO NOT DO THIS. The high heat will cook your screen and make it unusable. Only do this to remove a broken or unsavable Digitizer+LCD.
Alright, now pull out the heat gun. Alternatively, you can do what I did, and use a hair dryer. Not even kidding, this will work fine, and will be hilarious when you tell your friends about it.
On a high heat, start heating the screen. If you're using a heat gun, just do your thing, you know how it works. Hair dryer folks, keep the dryer very low to the phone, low enough to feel the dryer being pushed up by the air, holding it just high enough so it sort of hovers. (You'll know what I mean when you try it. If you don't, just keep it about half an inch off the phone.) Move the dryer along the edges of the screen, all the way around, thats where the glue is. It should heat up pretty fast.
Using your pry tool, start at the speaker grill and pry all the way around the phone. lifting just slightly upwards. If it's not extremely easy, apply more heat. Work all the way around, then pull the screen off. Be careful, it's likely you'll shatter the screen even more at this part if you're not careful. User Bozwell had an excellent suggestion (post 4), cover your screen in tape, then begin separating the screen to keep from getting glass everywhere. Great idea, Boz!
Alright, so from here on out, it's just reassembling your phone correctly. Piece o cake.
Firstly, put your new screen in. If it came with adhesive, it's up to you if you want to apply it now. I'd think you probably have to, but up to you.
If you're like me, and no adhesive was provided, hold off on doing anything for now. Just put the screen in the hole, and thread the ribbons through.
The motherboard lines up with some contacts on the chassis in a few places, but most importantly, there is a connection on the top left corner of the body, and the UNDERSIDE of the motherboard that needs to be made. I believe it's proximity sensor, but not sure. It's very difficult to tell if its attached, but look at what I'm describing, and try your best to mate them.
Don't forget ANY cables. Like, that's pretty obvious, but even when you're sure you didnt forget any, check again. The camera's ribbon is underneath the screen's, don't forget that one. I reassebled the whole thing, everything was working perfectly, except I no longer had any mobile connection. I couldn't imagine what I'd broken, since that's a whole different area, but going to phone status and checking my signal strength revealed I forgot to reconnect the white antennae (status showed my signal at -200,000 dbm). So, double check, because the more often you have to reopen your phone, the more flimsy it's going to get.
Alright, screw the plastic shielding back on, reconnect your battery, then flip the phone to be face up. Power it on, test the screen to make sure it's functional. If all is well, power off and glue the screen in. What I did, and I welcome anyone to tell me a better glue type or method, is plain ol Super glue along all the edges where the old glue was. Press it in, flip it over, and while it's drying, finish reassembling the phone (should just be make sure everything is screwed in inside, then put back glass back on.
If your screen wasn't functional, I guess try to get it replaced by whoever you bought it from, and leave your phone disassembled for when it gets to your house.
Alright, that's pretty much the thick and thin of it, it genuinely isn't that hard of a replacement. I've done a number of digitizer/lcd replacements, not bad at all. I hope this helped anyone stuck or wondering about anything. This video can be used as a rough example, but it goes really fast.
Good Luck!
replacement of lcd/digitzer
the removal was a nightmare for me. It was hilarious when the glass cracked it was exploding into a million little bitty pieces. I didnt use much heat, and there lied my problem. But yeah mine cracked in a way that it was completely unresponsive.
gruiz3 said:
the removal was a nightmare for me. It was hilarious when the glass cracked it was exploding into a million little bitty pieces. I didnt use much heat, and there lied my problem. But yeah mine cracked in a way that it was completely unresponsive.
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Haha that's crazy, it bothers me how fragile this phone seems to be.
To keep the glass shards from going everywhere try covering the screen in tape before you start.
bozwell said:
To keep the glass shards from going everywhere try covering the screen in tape before you start.
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Click to collapse
Great idea, OP updated!
So, what would I do if the screen itself is ok and it's just the glass (and digitizer) that is broken?
MoFoQ said:
So, what would I do if the screen itself is ok and it's just the glass (and digitizer) that is broken?
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You'll need a real heat gun, I think. You'll have to find a heat just hot enough to soften the glue, but not cook your lcd. Hair dryer method might work if you are extremely careful and very quick, but not sure exactly what the best method would be. Sorry
ripin150 said:
You'll need a real heat gun, I think. You'll have to find a heat just hot enough to soften the glue, but not cook your lcd. Hair dryer method might work if you are extremely careful and very quick, but not sure exactly what the best method would be. Sorry
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I figured...though I've been eye-ing using the screen+digitizer+front housing if and when they get back into stock.
(digitizer only is also out-of-stock)
I have had my Ultra Z since January. Zero problems, but this morning I removed my USB charger at work and a rubber gasket (see pic) fell out. Now the door does not close properly. I have the gasket and tried to work it back in but it would not go. There is a small tab and I cannot tell if it goes up (towards the screen) or down. I think I can get it back in with a toothpick or similar but want it to stay (and not lose it) and for it to re-seal the door properly. Not being able to close the USB door is a BIG deal to me.
I had been meaning to get a docking charger but bought some from China and they were crap. Guess I'll have to break down and get a real DK30.
The o-ring goes on the door.
Tab to back by the looks
Glue it back? What kind of glue?
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
mknewman said:
Glue it back? What kind of glue?
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
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Try crazy glue very very small amount and please let it dry fully before putting the cap back into the phone!!!
Jammol said:
Try crazy glue very very small amount and please let it dry fully before putting the cap back into the phone!!!
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Thanks Jammol. I'll try to figure this out. When I place it in the position it appears to belong in (now that I look closely I can see the small tab indention on the cap) but the part is so small I cannot even handle it with my big fat fingers, and don't really have a magnification station and stability setup to do it.
Big question is for the people who have had the cap break off, is there a source for the whole cap? Is it possible to install without taking the whole phone apart? Would it make sense to just throw it away and forget it was there?
mknewman said:
Thanks Jammol. I'll try to figure this out. When I place it in the position it appears to belong in (now that I look closely I can see the small tab indention on the cap) but the part is so small I cannot even handle it with my big fat fingers, and don't really have a magnification station and stability setup to do it.
Big question is for the people who have had the cap break off, is there a source for the whole cap? Is it possible to install without taking the whole phone apart? Would it make sense to just throw it away and forget it was there?
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I don't know what part of the world you are in but you can check these out. Couple folks have bought them:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-Son...zer_Ersatzteile_Werkzeuge&hash=item2339fdd95e
I say just replaced the entire cap with one of those and call it good. Mine is experiencing the same thing, tearing off little by little. I think that is where water might be getting into my phone, but I'll be replacing the phone soon anyways. Just not sure what to get yet.
I have not gotten mine wet yet other than rain in my pocket but the lines are much better with the cap on than removed, and I'd worry about the edge material getting pulled off the rest of the phone. I appreciate the ebay refrence and will try to find a US version. So is there a way to remove the old cap without breaking it off internally and having the tab rattling around inside?
I ordered a couple of the caps and a magnetic charger off thEbay US, but seller was in Spain so it will be a while. Crappy design trying to get rubber to adhere to plastic.
Does anyone know how to safely remove the old one? Just yank? slip something very thin in to try to get the tab to ride over the notch?
Thanks,
Marc
Super glue is what bonds o-rings to other materials because of the greasy slippery surface. Mine has also come loose. Contact glue, industrial glue or anything else wont bite on that thing because of its chemical resistance that the o-ring has.
try to get a hold of a bottle of Loctite 401 meanwhile if you can't wait for the parts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOCTITE-401...Instant-Adhesive-Super-Glue-20g-/121407567300
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Apply with a pin or paper clip I take it?
SÜPERUSER said:
Super glue is what bonds o-rings to other materials because of the greasy slippery surface. Mine has also come loose. Contact glue, industrial glue or anything else wont bite on that thing because of its chemical resistance that the o-ring has.
try to get a hold of a bottle of Loctite 401 meanwhile if you can't wait for the parts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOCTITE-401...Instant-Adhesive-Super-Glue-20g-/121407567300
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
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Click to collapse
mknewman said:
Apply with a pin or paper clip I take it?
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Click to collapse
mmm something like that I dunno really.. I've yet have to figure this out myself lol. Use your imagination! :laugh:
At my moms work when I was young they had superglue bottles from loctite with really tiny metal pipes attached on them I wonder what loctite model that is. They could be used to do any precision work!
So it's possible to get the new one in properly once I get the old one out? From this picture it appears the new tab should slide in but I'm worried if you have to tug hard to get the old one out.
SÜPERUSER said:
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
calm down...just pull on it. You won't break anything
edit: its no big deal to get the new one in
Great! Thanks, that's a relief. I'll let ya'll know how it goes when I get it. May buy a few extras too.
I got the replacement parts from thEbay tonight. Pulled on the old one and it came right out. Took 2-3 tries to get new one in. Tether was bunching up. Turns out if you hold it at about 45 regress it goes right in.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
gutted!
I am so gutted i didn't see this thread before I sent my phone to Sony for warranty repair.
My gasket didn't fall off, it started to come unstuck so was hanging off and when closing the lid the gasket would unroll and the lid would open.
I sent it to Sony as I think this is there fault. The gasket should stay attached for the duration of the warranty.
They want to charge me £55 for repair, handling and shipping!! I have had my claim escalated and now they say 'upon further inspection the device is bent'!! They are willing to send it back free of charge should I not want to have it repaired...... But should I now expect the device they send back to me to bent when I know full well it was in near perfect condition when I sent to them?!?!
The bottom line is follow instructions from this thread. DO NOT send your phone to Sony.
Sony use 'authorised repair centres' so they don't even know what is going on with your device and the trust you put in Sony to give your device to a respected engineer is misplaced.
I'm curious if it's possible to disassemble the fingerprint scanner/power button without destroying it in the process; specifically separating the metal "rim" surrounding/covering the scanner plate from the rest of the assembly without damaging it.
It's pretty much impossible to figure it out purely from pictures, and it'd be a waste all 'round to buy a shiny new one just to break it.
Sooooo anyone?
Septfox said:
I'm curious if it's possible to disassemble the fingerprint scanner/power button without destroying it in the process; specifically separating the metal "rim" surrounding/covering the scanner plate from the rest of the assembly without damaging it.
It's pretty much impossible to figure it out purely from pictures, and it'd be a waste all 'round to buy a shiny new one just to break it.
Sooooo anyone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you need another one? Or you just want to experiment with something?
Septfox said:
I'm curious if it's possible to disassemble the fingerprint scanner/power button without destroying it in the process; specifically separating the metal "rim" surrounding/covering the scanner plate from the rest of the assembly without damaging it.
It's pretty much impossible to figure it out purely from pictures, and it'd be a waste all 'round to buy a shiny new one just to break it.
Sooooo anyone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's many disassembly videos on YouTube. The answer may be there.
Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
ChazzMatt said:
Do you need another one? Or you just want to experiment with something?
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Aesthetics experiment. The phone I ordered has broken back glass; I figured since I was replacing it anyway, I'd replace some other stuff too and do a two-tone sort of thing.
The camera glass is easy to separate from its trim and get a replacement for, as is the SIM tray...volume buttons are pretty much impossible to get in certain colors though. The fingerprint scanner is the only thing left.
kenbo111 said:
There's many disassembly videos on YouTube. The answer may be there.
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Click to collapse
I imagine that most, if not all, focus on replacing it as a module rather than disassembling it...but eh, I'll check.
Ya I have a handful of them all working how many you want
---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------
Send me a message with your address I'll ship it(them) to you
herb9876 said:
Ya I have a handful of them all working how many you want
---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------
Send me a message with your address I'll ship it(them) to you
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I wouldn't normally look a gift horse squarely in the mouth, but I'm more than slightly curious as to why you have a handful of them :v
Having eyeballed some pictures and watched the rather destructive testing done by Zack/JerryRigEverything in slow motion, I've reached the conclusion that the reader plate is fused to the rim. The entire thing is probably a tub-shaped stamped plate that the scanner is glued into. The thing I want to do is probably not doable in the fashion I wanted to do it. Fortunately I have a plan B.
I wouldn't mind having a couple of spares, since I'm going to have the phone for quite some time (assuming I can get a seller to ship me one that's as-described...). I'll shoot you a PM in a minute.
I think over the last 2 years I've purchased 6 lg v30s. Most of them slightly flawed off eBay for parts and stuff so I have ziplock bags separating phones and their parts. I saw this thread and checked my bag of lg v30 parts I'll no longer be using and I think I have 4 fingerprint sensors fully intact in there. I'm in a giving mood I guess I'll check my messages thanks
it's pretty easy to disassemble FP/power button without damage. I'm using hot air to loosen the adhesive then pry it with metal/plastic pry tool. The problem is, after removing, the adhesive that held them with back glass will completely unusable so I had to clean that adhesive and replace it with some black B7000 glue. In other hand, the back glass itself only cost around $16 completely with fingerprint/power button and ready to install.
herb9876 said:
I think over the last 2 years I've purchased 6 lg v30s. Most of them slightly flawed off eBay for parts and stuff so I have ziplock bags separating phones and their parts. I saw this thread and checked my bag of lg v30 parts I'll no longer be using and I think I have 4 fingerprint sensors fully intact in there. I'm in a giving mood I guess I'll check my messages thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent you a pm
herb9876 said:
I think over the last 2 years I've purchased 6 lg v30s. Most of them slightly flawed off eBay for parts and stuff so I have ziplock bags separating phones and their parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, fair enough. Did you find that you needed to replace stuff on your handset very often?
immns said:
it's pretty easy to disassemble FP/power button without damage. I'm using hot air to loosen the adhesive then pry it with metal/plastic pry tool. The problem is, after removing, the adhesive that held them with back glass will completely unusable so I had to clean that adhesive and replace it with some black B7000 glue. In other hand, the back glass itself only cost around $16 completely with fingerprint/power button and ready to install.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I knew that the power button could be separated, they're available for sale (though somewhat less commonly than button+scanner sets). This separation is what I'm after:
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It looks like the scanner plate is a separate piece, but I'm going to guess it's permanently glued down with epoxy or something. My phone arrives tomorrow, so I can poke at it a bit and see if it moves at all.
I have a feeling that even if the plate can be pulled up, it won't be removable due to the ribbon connection. So all this will be for naught anyway :silly:
Thanks for mentioning B7000. I wasn't sure what kind of adhesive would be appropriate for restoring some water resistance, and to be honest I don't have much faith in the pre-fitted double-sided tape included with new backs; B7000 sounds like the kind of stuff I'll want.
No not really but I love the phone and have broken 3 screens. When trying to get another screen the replacement screens cost more than damn near just buying 2 complete bad esi or slightly cracked phones. So I figured why pay for a screen when I can buy a complete soonersoft lg v30 for half. I was also experimenting with using silicone sealent to waterproof the back glass.. I feel like I'm being interogated here lol.... Any other questions?? ?
By the way
Silicone actually works I've torture tested the sh&t out of it . Ugly and messy but works in case you were wondering ..
Obviously I have too much time on my hands
Septfox said:
Ah, fair enough. Did you find that you needed to replace stuff on your handset very often?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've bought several (more than 7) still being used by family and friends and have not needed to replace anything. But then I always bought "mint" 9/10 or 10/10.
herb9876 said:
When trying to get another screen the replacement screens cost more than damn near just buying 2 complete bad esi or slightly cracked phones. So I figured why pay for a screen when I can buy a complete soonersoft lg v30 for half.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense. I'd noticed that replacement screens are still pretty expensive, prices haven't come down as much as I would have expected. Kind of drives home that a high-bezel case and screen protector are a good idea if there's any gravel within a mile.
herb9876 said:
I feel like I'm being interogated here lol.... Any other questions??
...
Silicone actually works I've torture tested the sh&t out of it . Ugly and messy but works in case you were wondering ..
Obviously I have too much time on my hands
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pfft, we haven't even started with the questions yet. I have the lads setting up the waterboarding rig next door.
Ooh, passive antitheft; random thieves are unlikely to grab a phone that can't be mistaken for a stock Samscum or Apple at a glance :v
Looks pretty cool, though. I was considering doing a clear-back mod, but I have other things in mind for this round. What kind of coating did they use for the glass coloring; just straight paint, or was it a peel-able layer?
I did think that automotive RTV sealant/gasket-maker would work awesomely for waterproofing, but...being resistant to heat, aren't these silicon-based adhesives considerably harder to pull back apart?
ChazzMatt said:
I've bought several (more than 7) still being used by family and friends and have not needed to replace anything. But then I always bought "mint" 9/10 or 10/10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
I tried my best to buy a minimally-or undamaged one with an unscratched screen. If there's to be damage to my phone, I want it to be my fault. Unscratched H932-BK/UBKs are rather uncommon, so it took a bit of patience.
The one I've got coming tomorrow is said to have spent all its life in an Otterbox Defender with one of those crappy-but-effective plastic-sticker screen protectors on front. It only has a busted back due to a one-in-a-million impact; toddler enthusiastically ran his head into it while it was in the owner's pocket.
I'm uh...guessing the kid's head is made of granite, as apparently only the phone received damage despite his headbutting it that hard through one of the thickest cases on the market
I haven't tried to pull it apart this particular v30 I wasn't planning on taking it apart if my personal ip rating held up during the tests. I got the idea because my neighbor had one of those face cleaner things called clearsonic pro or something close to that anyway. It was a product sold I think towards the end of the 2008 or so. Designed to be used in water environments and waterproofed for this reason. Her unit stopped working so I volunteered to fix it. I cut it open and replaced the batteries but then had to figure out how to seal it up to be used in a wet environment again . So I bought just regular GE silicone sealant at home Depot and spewed it everywhere threw 4 clamps on it and left it alone. I waited a couple days and then cut the excess off then went to town drenching the cut line with super glue. Waited then dremmel sanded it down and it worked great. As I said I have too much time on my hands. I didn't use caulking silicone just regular silicone.
The only reason I even try this stuff is because the prices for lg v30's that are blemished are dirt dirt cheap now. I didn't touch my first one I think it was 900 or something back a few years
---------- Post added at 01:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------
Wrong thread for this but there's no rctd present on my twrp flashed pie stock build and the performance is not great lots of lag compared to Oreo builds any ideas?
herb9876 said:
Wrong thread for this but there's no rctd present on my twrp flashed pie stock build and the performance is not great lots of lag compared to Oreo builds any ideas?
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I won't tell the mods we're off-topic if you won't. Shhh.
Have you tried the extremely dumb LG Bridge trick/fix thing? I believe it mainly helps with memory management, but it seems like I saw a couple people say it also helped Pie not run like crap in general.
This kind of thing is why I'll be sticking with Oreo...in my opinion Pie doesn't have enough compelling new features to justify dealing with the ROM's immaturity, and some of them annoy me (notification handling) or actively piss me off (location settings neuter).
herb9876 said:
I haven't tried to pull it apart this particular v30 I wasn't planning on taking it apart if my personal ip rating held up during the tests.
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Yea, "if it ain't broke, don't encourage it to break". I can dig it.
I just tried taking it apart and the ring around the scanner surface can be detached, but not the surface itself.
Duo8 said:
I just tried taking it apart and the ring around the scanner surface can be detached, but not the surface itself.
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Thanks!
Not at all what I expected...so we have a scanner plate, base plate made out of steel, and then the aluminum anodized ring.
Did it come off easily? Looks like they used the same double-sided tape/gasket that everything else is held together with.