Hi buddies, in my desperation to try to increase the 3G signal I messed with the antenna connector W1. And I got a better signal, but ...
Sure, I did not know that this connector W1 has an internal switch and insert a wire will damage the internal switch, causing it to permanently disconnect the internal antenna. This is not to use the proper plug. (You can say it, i'm a dumbass)
So for now semi improvised internal antenna with a square shaped wire that gives very good results under the battery cover. As you can see in the pictures:
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And reading the forum I ran into a similar problem in the Galaxy SII subforum. A user named in this post Dr.Hammer solved by welding tin:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=24342599#post24342599
The problem is that when I want to sell it, nobody will like that the battery cover does not close properly and instead of a wire antenna. Nor do I send it for service because it would have to reinstall the original rom, and reset the counters, and pray because they discovered that it was my fault ...
My question is if anyone already made the same mistake I did and if it might solve.
Now I wonder if I made a jumper as shown in the following image, it will work?
Any suggestions are welcome.
Sorry for the inconvenience!
A big hug for everyone!
PS: I'm using the google translator because I'm from Argentina.
This could be a solution and useful to everyone with the same problem. I'll quote a buddy's post. Maybe i'll try it.
And obviously post the results.
vultus said:
Folks,
I think I solved that problem with a easy procedure ! Work for my, maybe work for others....
I'm noob here yet...So I can't put link,I will try to explain only with words (my english is so-so...sorry for that)
As other in this thread, I made the same mistake: connected wrong RF antena cable in my Samsung Galaxy S2 i9100 (VIVO BRAZIL with OFICIAL Jelly Bean 4.1.2....I try to install other rooms, to verify is a software problem, but I realised was a hardware problem) and damage the little RF conector ... so, after that my GSM signal is very poor in most areas I use...except in my work, but I believe is because is a build with 9 floor ....so I think this don't count !
For my lucky, my wife have too a i9100 and in attempt to understand the problem, I disassembly entire these two i9100 e exchange almost parts between the phones.... conclusion: Really is that conector that Dr. Hammer mentioned, unfortunately is virtually impossible to change that if you don't have the properly equipment and experience with micro-soldering...in my case I haven't.
But, like a average brazilian guy, I don't have much money to spend in a new smartphone (I think this is globally for most folks here.. kkkkkk)....I decide to search more deeper to solve this problem.
Even without experience and equipment, I decide to take this conector, I find that correct name, is RF Switch Connector MHC-705.
So, obviously I wouldn't try first in my i9100, afterall... I consider a noob in electronic area.... and even the GSM signal is dead, the device still works perfectly for other purposes (surfing in web, games....) so I get a old LG KP130, who has a similar conector.
The problem is that soldering is in the PCB (motherboard) surface (made by machines or other process tha don't envolved human hands)...so is very trick to take out, but I was able to take out that conector, the problem is it fells apart when I take out from PCB (useless to my i9100) .... moreover, when I tryed soldering a little tiny cable (to emulate what I will do in my i9100), the heat of soldering iron (a normal one, 40w) burns some parts of PCB (even I care to don't touch in PCB surface)...result: the internal antena of Lg KP130 don't work anymore.
So I realise isn't possible to do the same in my i9100....After that, I accepted I was a owner of a "Samsung's Ipod" .....
But, meanwhile I clean the mess,I had idea: Ok, some folks inserted little cables in that conector and work.... I if I could put some solder in that little hole to fill the connecor, will be resolve ?
I got some solder (after melted by soldering iron.... some little fillets of solder has drop in the table during ther process .. I really don't know if the proprerties of melted solder is diferent.. I used solder after has melted by a iron and was cold) and a needle and begin to put in little hole of the connector of my i9100... I pressure a little the needle so put more as I can.... and voilá !! the signal strength UP to 100%.... and after 2 week still that way!!
I travelled to other areas and signal still the same when I don't have this problem.....so I belive I fix that.
The advantage I see in this method compare to the others (Dr.Hammer, the brazilian khazmodan or Argentine hellcore):
- Easily to do: if you have a good eye and hand
- Very cheap: some melted solder and a needle
- Very quickly.: I took about 5 minutos to do all that (subtract the process of KP130)
- No need dismount: only open the back of you phone ant take out the battery for prevention
- Less invasive: Don't change the stetic of device....because ins almost impossible to see the solder in the conector.
Cons:
- You will never could (never is strong in that area, but will very hard to do taht) connect other RF cable in the MHC-705 RF Switch connector again (I think is a good one...kkkkk)
- You need buy a Soldering iron and solder (Here in Brazil is relative cheaper...some like U$ 10)
I can tell too that my friend connected the same wrong cable in her i9300 and get same problem....but for her lucky, the phone still in warranty and the reseller would change the motherboard....maybe he will get in 04/01/13 her phone
I hope that could help others to solve similar problems....
Thanks a lot to all folks in this thread, specially to Dr. Hammer and my compatriot Khazmodan (Khazmodan: here, in Porto Alegre, a local shop charge R$ 150,00 .. about $ 75,00 to do same that Dr. Hammer suggest, but they don't garantee will work... in fact they saw that is possible to bricket my phone too....without refound).
Best regards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Problem solved
*** PROBLEM SOLVED ***
In the end I solved the problem of the cell's internal antenna. Thanks to help in another thread and I'll put the information here in case any of you is in the same dead end.
The following user-created images vultus, explain well what happens inside the connector. Credits are for him:
To read the full information the original thread is: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1273292
Basically, the connector is filled using tin waste, as these are tiny. We recommend isolating the connector with electrical tape to avoid tin entering into the cell PCB. A needle may be used for these enter the hole.
It was NOT necessary to use heat or melt the tin inside the hole. Just inserting with pressure the signal was restored.
Taking the cell in the same position i get the following results.
Homemade Antenna: HSDPA max = 11 asu.
Internal antenna reconnected: HSDPA max = 14 asu.
End of story, I hope this helps many who made the same mistake and thank you all for the cooperation, assistance and information. Especially vultus.
Regards from Argentina.
Related
Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
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The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
InfX said:
The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's put it up this way: If it was you, would you try fixing it yourself?
Yes. But i do have some hardware related experience
Note that the price of $540 is TOTALLY not worth it, you can probably get a new HD2 for this price.
Have you tried another/new cable ?
britoso said:
Have you tried another/new cable ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but you can clearly see some broken traces on the pic. If that's really is how it looks like, trying a new cable, or doing anything that applies any mechanical force to that connector, can only do more damage.
i had a very similar problem with my htc universal back in the days, and had a console chipper repair it for me but if you're experienced using a soldering iron, maybe you can fix it yourself.
a "console chipper" should have a lot of experience patching this kind of electronic stuff, indeed
I have just had this happen to me with an O2UK HD2.
Anovo have charged me £280 for the repair, claiming it needs a new pcb.
This isn't missuse, this is poor quality. I have never had this happen before and i am inclined to believe its a fault with poorly secured micro usb connectors.
It looks like i'll have to dig out my soldering iron too, lets hope i don't overheat the pads!!
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Throatchopper said:
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yup same problem here but i have to have the usb cable hanging down from the connector to have it work
i agree ****ty assembly process... and i know i used to solder motherboards and power supplies for work
I have the same problem with the usb connection. Can't connect it to the computer anymore. But my windows button also broke.................bad buildquality to bad.
And probobly no warranty cuase i have ozdroid 2.00 installed and can't flash it back anymore..............
Same problem here,
The connection is only made when the cable is pushed upside.
I thought maybe I just replace the mainboard, but that's not possible because these are not sold.. (Different IMEI etc..)
So I wan't to try to replace the micro USB connector.
The disassembly proces is not the problem, I have already replaced 3 LCM modules.. But I wan't to know how difficult it is to replace the connector.
They are sold on ebay for ~7 euros
Anybody already tried?
its doable
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
mikeyman2171 said:
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was about to say the same thing, youre spot on there.
depending on the level of damage to solder pads and traces these should be quite repairable on most.
reinforcement with epoxy as suggested by mikeyman is an excellent idea.
anybody in the uk near the midlands with a bust usb port? id love to have a go at one of these as i have plenty of experience with console work, i do 0603 smd leds by hand with ease so sure i could do this.
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
mooooooa said:
Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Mogkupopppo said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My USB port is broken. The connector flexes and I can see that the part of the PCB that was soldered to the USB pins has stayed with the USB and broken away from the main PCB.
I can easily solder "flying leads" for pin 1 (+5V - seems to be a large "test pin" directly below) and pin 5 (GND - will solder to USB shell leg). This should restore charging via USB.
I am just unsure about where the data pins 2 and 3 should be soldered to. Do you know where you soldered them?
Thanks
Darren .)
broken usb port htc hd2
nutmegy said:
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI,
I have a broken micro usb port on my htc hd2 and wondered if you managed to get yours fixed.I know yours was damaged some time ago but I also live near Watford so wondered if there is a reasonable place that could fix it for me.
Thankyou,
Jeevesta
Mine just broke, as well. All of a sudden, I now have to tilt the cable up to get it to charge, and tethering does NOT work at all anymore. Anyone in the US have this problem? If so, did you get it repaired, and if so, how did you do it? I have no idea about the soldering and other stuff the earlier posts mentioned, and T-Mobile told me I just need to get another phone. Please help!
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium
Hey guys,
been a long time lurker, but I've ran into a bit of a snag that I need some help with.
missus broke her charger and used something else to charge the phone and after a bit the phone just went pop and turned off and wont switch back on again.
There is no visible damage to the phone whatsoever.
Is there some sort of mechanism designed to protect the phone from the surge or whatever it was?
I would hate for the main board to be completely knackered :S
I've been reading around and there is a USB board that connects to the rest of the phone? will it be just a case of replacing that or is the phone shafted? :S
Thanks folks.
Depends on what kind of charger she used. I do know that there are some micro-usb chargers/cable whose pin connections are different than the ones that come with the i9100.
If a different battery and a oem charger doesnt turn on the phone at all, your only option may be to send it to samsung for repair.
Thanks for the reply.
She's tried charging it on the PC and it wont work.
not to keen on sending it to samsung as they'll charge an arm and a leg.
What do you guys think? Will the damage be limited to the USB board or will this cost me any more?
Im not at home right now to be able to open it up so will rely on your expert opinions!
Honestly, how would we know without looking at it ? Something is blown which is stopping the phone from powering up, what, is anyone's guess.
Take it to a mobile repair shop if you don't want to send it to Samsung & get a quote.
As above and they might say it needs a new USB board then you can price a USB board up on ebay .
jje
Thanks guys,
In your opinion. Is it likely that the main parts of the phone have been damaged or do you think the damage has been absorbed by the battery and USB board?
Have you sniffed it to see if it stinks of burning.I would open it up and look at the internals.I would only send it for repair as a last resort as mboards are like 180 bucks.
sent by my s2 using xda premium
Ok. You already got an answer, so frankly, you deserve this.
I reckon the phone is totally shot. Not replaceable. Foolishly using an incompatible charger has turned the phone into a $500+ 135 gram hunk of useless plastic. Stuffed, in a word. Time for a new phone.
Now, for the slow kids up the back, you put too many zzzzs into the phone. Something burnt out. I don't know anyone on here who has the ability to view the innards of your phone over distance.
Take it to a phone shop.
I can say it slower if that didn't get through ?
MistahBungle said:
Ok. You already got an answer, so frankly, you deserve this.
I reckon the phone is totally shot. Not replaceable. Foolishly using an incompatible charger has turned the phone into a $500+ 135 gram hunk of useless plastic. Stuffed, in a word. Time for a new phone.
Now, for the slow kids up the back, you put too many zzzzs into the phone. Something burnt out. I don't know anyone on here who has the ability to view the innards of your phone over distance.
Take it to a phone shop.
I can say it slower if that didn't get through ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theres no need to be arrogant about it.
Not once did I ask for you to use your magic skills to look inside the housing of my wifes phone. At this moment in time, even I do not have this ability.
I asked for your "opinion" as to what the damage could potentially be, google it if you require a definition.
I still thank you for delivering to me your opinion (eventually)
I'm away from home for a few weeks so I can't have a look inside the phone so just trying to get some feelers as to the likelihood of damage byond the USB flex cable.
Thank you very much,
GP
You have to first tell us what the "something else" used for charging is before we can make an educated guess as to what has happened.
whoops sorry about that.
It was a broken charger from an old android phone.
It would sometimes work, and not at other times.
I'm guessing the charger short circuited or something??
Cheers again
Think he means volts,mAs,polarity of the charger
sent by my s2 using xda premium
Right, I did some digging and it turns out I was lying.
it wasn't a broken charger, It was a perfectly healthy charger for a Samsung tocco lite
i checked the spec on it and it seems to be the same as the S2
5v
0.7A
?
yeah that wouldn't damage the phone without anything else being wrong, like the charger being 110V and you being in 220-220V country or something like that
nope :S
nothing like that.
it was used in the same house.
So you're saying there could be an underlying issue?
Broken charger or broken phone. It wasnt the charger's specs that killed it
Connect it to a car in the car battery and start ignition. Now there is "something else" for you
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Hey guys,
I have an update.
I've finally gotten home and managed to pull the sucker apart.
No corrosion on any parts of the phone whatsoever.
However I have noticed something about the actual USB port that is stuck onto the USB flex cable
If I face the socket away from me, there are 7 joints that solder the port onto the usb board. The Joint on the far right, I wouldn't say it looks burnt, but it just looks a little dull compared to the rest, and definately looks slightly different.
This joint has a white arrow pointing towards it printed on the PCB of the actual board.
I tried taking some photos but they're not exactly high res.
Unfortunately I can't determine if the dullness of this joint is significanlty enough to denote damage or whether thats how it should normally look like.
Does anybody know what it should look like?
I tried googling for pictures but there arent any clear ones that show this. :S
Cheers.
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Hello
I have purchased a Galaxy S2 which has a damaged Micro USB Port.
My phone gets charged fine but I do not have a USB data connection with my PC, I'm afraid the Micro USB is damaged/broken.
However, if I really I press hard the cable to the port it gets connected for some seconds and then gets disconnected.
I've searched google about this and some people claim it's really easy to replace the Micro USB port, some screws and you are done.
The thing is I have never dismantled a Galaxy S2 before and I'm a bit afraid.
Is it really that easy?
Will this item from eBay fix my problem?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dock-Connec...AU_MobilePhoneAccessories&hash=item35c5bc96a0
Also, the screen has been replaced in the past and in the upper left edge of the screen, the glue is off, how can I glue the screen back?
Thanks for reading
i think u should take it to a fixer usb port isn't easy to fix as far for the screen any wrong move u do and u'll break something
Blackwolf10 said:
i think u should take it to a fixer usb port isn't easy to fix as far for the screen any wrong move u do and u'll break something
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually It's pretty easy.Two days ago I've disassembled my phone(I got off everything,till the last screw),and I also unmounted the USB/Mic part of it.It's easy to get off/remount,just follow a tutorial on youtube
If you dare, first watch very carefully this video, you will learn a lot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65pvAINg2ME
Then watch this guy, it looks rude in handling but you may get an idea of doing it without removing the entire motherboard, just be extreme carefully and don't over force anything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3_zg9Vt-fg
I had the same problem and replace it with this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140871246553?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
GamingDj said:
Actually It's pretty easy.Two days ago I've disassembled my phone(I got off everything,till the last screw),and I also unmounted the USB/Mic part of it.It's easy to get off/remount,just follow a tutorial on youtube
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and what about the screen ??
In all honesty....I'd leave the screen "as is"....Some glue may be missing, but at the moment I assume the screen is working.....
You might be able to sort the glue issue, but there is a high probability that the screen will be damaged in the process.
And replacing the USB board IS easy....you just have to make sure you buy the CORRECT replacement part.....there are 3 versions of this module. ...
REV2.2, REV2.3 and REV2.4
They are NOT interchangeable.
The REV number is printed on the board in VERY small printing...
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Sent from my Rooted, De bloated Stock JB powered S2 via PhilZ kernel and Tapatalk 2....
keithross39 said:
In all honesty....I'd leave the screen "as is"....Some glue may be missing, but at the moment I assume the screen is working.....
You might be able to sort the glue issue, but there is a high probability that the screen will be damaged in the process.
And replacing the USB board IS easy....you just have to make sure you buy the CORRECT replacement part.....there are 3 versions of this module. ...
REV2.2, REV2.3 and REV2.4
They are NOT interchangeable.
The REV number is printed on the board in VERY small printing...
Sent from my Rooted, De bloated Stock JB powered S2 via PhilZ kernel and Tapatalk 2....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for your answers.
If I buy a different revision, what happens?
From what I've read, the phone may not charge, transfer of data will be affected, the microphone may not work. ...things like that....
Sent from my Rooted, De bloated Stock JB powered S2 via PhilZ kernel and Tapatalk 2....
keithross39 said:
From what I've read, the phone may not charge, transfer of data will be affected, the microphone may not work. ...things like that....
Sent from my Rooted, De bloated Stock JB powered S2 via PhilZ kernel and Tapatalk 2....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright my Smartphone's Flex Cable ribbon revision is 2.2 R. B53
Now, most eBay sellers have a low English language skill, they seem they do not understand what I'm talking about
My question to them is this:
I would like to know what revision number is your flex cable ribbon.
See the pictures below to see where you can find the revision number.
Thanks a lot
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/25/yzu6u4yr.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/25/uzapydut.jpg
It's like I'm speaking to monkeys.
A seller replied "sorry that our item doesn't fit yours."
I'm from Greece and I would like to know where can I order a flex cable charging ribbon at a low cost.
Also after disassembling my phone, now whenever I shut it down, it boot ups by itself without the power button being pressed.
However, the volume up/down keys work correctly on the OS.
Am I screwed?
No you're not, go to another repair center
And please send this pic to whoever replied "Sorry our product didn't fit yours":
Sent from the little guy
Rev 2.2....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370797750646?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Sent from my Rooted, De bloated Stock JB powered S2 via PhilZ kernel and Tapatalk 2....
MOD NOTE: Could you edit this post to correctly embed the images? As im a noob here, it wont let me. TIA!
MOD EDIT: Done!!!
MD
Hi all,
Tonight I decided to take the plunge and flash the TF101 to 4.2.2 EOS nightlies from the stock WW ICS 4.0.3. I got there in the end (thanks Team EOS - 4.2.2. on the TF101 makes it feel like a modern day tablet. Super fast and slick. Cant thank you enough!)
Im a linux guy so I checked out the .bat from the PERI 0.4 to see what commands ADB used in order to get a recovery image on there. Looked straightforward enough, so time to hook the transformer up to USB and begin work. I ensured USB debugging was enabled in the TF and hooked up the USB cable. Nothing happened.
So I check /var/log/syslog and see that something is amiss
Code:
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92004.938223] usb 3-4: new full-speed USB device n
umber 22 using xhci_hcd
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92004.938346] usb 3-4: Device not responding to se
t address.
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.142138] usb 3-4: Device not responding to se
t address.
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.345807] usb 3-4: device not accepting addres
s 22, error -71
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.345830] hub 3-0:1.0: unable to enumerate USB
device on port 4
Figured this was maybe a compatibility issue, so tried everything from disabling xhci_hdc to wiggling the dank cable. Nothing.
So hooked the transformer up to windows 7 - got the dreaded error almost immediately
One of the USB devices attached to your computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After some research, all pointers seemed to imply that the USB cable, while fine for charging, was broken. A pity, I had arrange some 'man cave' time with the wife and was really looking forward to getting 4.2.2 on the TF tonight. But im not a man to be beaten, so decided to try to fix the problem myself. After all, how hard can it be - we are talking 4 wires here.
First, I pulled back the plastic housing from the USB connector. It needed a bit of 'persuasion' by hooking a small watchmaking screwdriver beteween the metal and the plastic (on the side with the white USB symbol on) and pulling the metal connector away from the plastic. This was a bit fiddly, and ill admit the plastic housing did crack ever so slightly, but nothing a bit of superglue didnt fix for me So now im left with this;
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At this point, i prised apart the metal crimp to the rear of the connector using some small pliers, then popped out the shield retainers at the side and rear. This allowed me to remove the metal shield.
Then I removed the bit of insulating tape over the data and power contacts
As this point I could see clearly that the white wire was snapped at the solder joint. I used a bit of *gentle* force cowboy: ) to stretch the white wire a bit further and stripped the end. I then tinned the end and used my butane solder iron (though tbh any decent iron will do) to re-attach the joint
Yes its not the prettiest soldering work in the world, and yes i did slip once and slightly melt the plastic sheild, but im likely never going to see it again and there is no metal to metal contact so should be all good.
At this point, I put the insulating tape back in place (v. important for obvious reasons to do with the connector itself being metal) and reversed the dis-assembly process. When putting the crimp back in place I ensured to use suitable force to ensure that no further stress is placed on the data wires. I also stuck a bit of superglue on the cracked plastic housing and slid everything back into place.
And voila - one working USB datacable again.
In my opinion, the build quality of the manufacturer supplied USB wire is flawed. The USB plug side of the wire has poor crimping of the wiring, allowing excessive movement and stress on the internal wires and solder joints on the connector itself. On top of this, the white data wire seems to be looped over the other wires in such a way that it is always taut - never a good combination where bad crimping is not provding adequate stress relief. At some point in the past my wire has probably been rotated 90 degrees (or so) from centre and the joint of the white data wire just gave up. I guess I have one of my kids to thank for that (though in reality, it was probably me being rough whilest removing the USB wire from the wall-wart charger.
Given the many posts about these wires failing, im inclined to think the problem I encountered is very common.
If you experience a similar problem with your wire and simply cant wait to get a new one shipped, it may be worth trying this method out. Your milage may vary and its entirely at your own risk - I accept no liability for any loss and/or damage to your equipment, your self, your hamster, fluffy cat or anything else. :angel:
I hope this posts helps a few people with their Asus 40 pin connectors that work for charging but dont work for data.
You finally gave me the kick in the bottom that I needed to do the same. Been putting this off for the last year, fro me both teh green and teh white wire were lose. So just for information the order of the wire is
Black
Green
White
Red + Orange
good point rosco thanks for the wiring order!
I wish I could see the pics... but I got a 404 error....
I had same problem on 2 cables.
I assumed that when a cable is used to charge there is some damage caused form high temperature of power supplier.
I suggest 2 cables ( few $ on chinese shops) to use 1 for charging, one for data
bye
I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Make sure the antenna will do 5ghz
I almost forgot, make sure you get an antenna that will work for both 2.4ghz and 5ghz.
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
Pilsor said:
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
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Thanks for opening this up man!! Trying to make this thing last a bit longer, this will help. We will also have Oreo anyday now as more screen shots are being posted.
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
Opening the Mi Box case
hhai93 said:
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
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Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
dr_vega said:
Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
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Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
hhai93 said:
Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
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Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
dr_vega said:
Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
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Thank you! Just bought one, will be arrived at the end of May :fingers-crossed:
dr_vega said:
I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
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That may be true, but IPEX worked for me. I bought a couple of the antennas in the picture. One was hard to press onto the connector and I used a needle nose pliers to apply pressure. The other one snapped on with just fingers.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
Toliyn said:
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
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The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Mr.BungIe said:
The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
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To begin with, I was unpleasantly surprised with the reception quality of the mi box.
I have a noname Chinese tv box with which there are enough problems, but none of them related with receiving a wi-fi signal.
When I turned on mi box for the first time without an external antenna connected, the device was able to connect to wi-fi and start downloading updates, but the online video playback and TV playback over ott playlist did not work. I even rebooted the mi box several times to make sure that the problem is not related with the updates.
Then I put the antenna all worked as expected.
So I think so. There is a noticeable difference when using an external antenna.
isn't there any android tool that mesure the wifi strength signal ?
If yes it would be nice to have some results before/after
but of course your feedback is very nice.
I had too issues, i fixed them by moving my wifi extender (my wifi router is at 1st floor and on the roof i have an extender to make sure that I have enought signal at both floor. but as the mibox whas having difficulties I moved the extender from one room to very close to the mibox) and since them streaming 1080p video is no more any issue.
But of course installing an antenna would be nice ... or maybe an ethernet usb hub ....
Indeed I may start looking at 4k movies end of the year, and plan to use the mibox (hoping that it will have enougth power)
Did anyone ever confirm if this is an antenna port or not
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
Lemonato said:
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
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I did it too and "Lemonato" is right, there is no change on the wifi reception.
** sorry... don't know why the pics is not showing
anyone tried using this mod?
https://youtu.be/Nk-nj_BwoBE?t=5m30s