This is an extended battery mod using two OEM batteries for the LG Optimus L9 P769. I am currently running AntonX's version of CM 10.2, which is OC'd to 1350 and UC'd to 200. Love his rom.
Credits to:
fastwanabe - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2397045
s0me guy - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1800177&highlight=battery+mod
Do this mod at your own risk! Soldering together lithium-ion batteries can be dangerous especially if you short them out. Those without soldering skills probably shouldn't do this! This can also destroy your phone!
The case I used was a pandmimi ULAK case - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2DI44/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also suggest getting another wall charger with a higher amperage output. The stock charger might not work anymore. Something around 1.5 amps would probably do fine.
Suggested tools and parts:
- two new OEM BL-53qh batteries
- Soldering Equipment (Iron, Desoldering Braid, Solder, tip cleaner, etc)
- Wire to solder batteries together
- Small rotary cutting tool such as a dremel to cut case and back plate
- Razor knife to cut rubber sleeve
- Liquid Electrical Tape to cover exposed terminals
- Tape to hold batteries together
- Volt meter with a continuity or resistance function to test for shorts
- Double sided tape or tape roller up into a cylinder
- Pencil or marker
Step One- Gather materials and prepare a clean working area so you have ample room
Step Two- Charge both NEW batteries fully so their voltages are about the same.
Step Three - Place one battery in phone and put rolled up tape or double sided tape between back case and battery close it tight
Step Four - Remove back case so the battery comes out with it mark it with a pencil or marker
Step Five - Cut out back piece with razor knife or rotary cutting tool be careful not to break the back case. Keep the thin plastic we will use that later
Step Six - place the rubber piece on with nothing else and cut out the hole by pressing on it to mark the battery compartment and cut the rubber with the razor knife.
Step Seven - Tape both batteries together and place them in the phone put on the back case and the rubber. Place double sided tape on battery then line up the hard ULAK case with the rubber. Once alligned press them firmly together and pull the hard ULAK case off with the battery still attached. Mark where the batteries are with something. Remove the batteries and use the rotary cutting tool to cut the square battery hole out.
Step Eight - Clean up all the holes so that each piece can be removed without interfering with the batteries.
Step Nine- Use the liquid tape on the P769 back cover where the copper might be exposed
Step Ten - Solder positive to positive then check for shorts if there are no shorts solder negative to negative and check for shorts. if there are no shorts and the connections are good and sturdy then all the soldering is done. Make sure that the wire doesn't stick out to far from the battery because it might not fit in the battery compartment. To make things easier I burnt away the little bit of plastic that sticks up between the solder bridge and it is also a good idea to tin the connections and the wire before soldering them together.
Step Eleven - Once all the soldering is done and you are certain there are no shorts and your connections are good. connect the battery to the phone and try to turn it on. It should boot up with around 100% battery life during the first hour of use make sure to feel for battery warmth. If it starts to get really hot. It's probably messed up and you should fix it. Once all the checks are done and the battery fits in the phone fine use fast discharge and turn it on select everything if you want. Run it for about 5 or 10 minutes. if the battery gets warm but the temperature monitor doesn't move than your solder bridges are too tall making the other two connections not to touch the pins inside the battery compartment. After that is done and working use the liquid tape to cover the exposed connections that don't go inside your phone.
Step Twelve - Put the all the case pieces back on. Take the piece that you cut off the P769 back case and place it ontop of the battery use tape to tape it on. Then put on any decorative tape to cover the ugly hole. Take off the ULAK hard plastic case and put tape on the other side to prevent it slightly sticking to the battery. Then you can put it back together and enjoy you're long battery life.
Step Thirteen - Calibrate your phones battery http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2192948
That's it. If anyone reads through it and doesn't understand or think I may have went too in depth they are welcomed to correct me. I hope you enjoy the mod whether you try or not that's up to you.
That is absolutely sick. Father was showing me how to solder awhile back, maybe I'll get around to this
Yeah it's a pretty good mod. I love absolutely love it. feels good in my hand, it isn't heavy. it really isn't hard to do as long as you have the tools and take your time. I love it. idt i've had my phone die in one day since I have did the double battery mod. it's quite spectacular. I suppose I have the extra battery life because it's a bit undervolted by AntonX's CM 11.
Related
Does anyone know if there is a third party Touch HD cover with a reset hole, so that we can perform reset wihtout having to remove the back cover?
I usually try to reset by software, but often this is not possible because the device is frozen, in which case I would remove the back cover and take off the battery.
How much more convenience there will be if I can just poke into the reset hold without removing the cover, isn't it?
why not just drill the cover yourself?
What tools do you use for this drilling job? How do you get it at the correct position? Will the paint around it come off if an amateur does the drilling?
I would love one with micro SD card hole. But I would need an extra back cover to have that as backup.
Try it with one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Housing-Batte...3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:2|39:1|240:1318
It is a relatively simple task drilling a hole, or making a cut-out.
I would suggest buying a spare back cover first though.
You will need;
something like a 2.5mm drill bit (just got HD like an hr ago not had chance to play with it or make measurements), 2 bits of masking tape, a small ruler or measuring tape, something to protect the back when laying it on a suitable surface to drill on.
Accurately measure where the button is in relation to where the hole is to be.
Put the Masking tape either side of the back roughly where the hole will be, then carefully transfer the measurements over on to the back and mark on the tape where the hole will be.
Using a suitable bit, while resting the back on something to prevent scratches, drill the hole.
Please note having a hole may increase chances of dust and lint getting into the battery compartment - you could resolve this by getting a small 10mm square piece of foam (same kind as used in light traps in cameras - its pretty thin).
For the Micro SD cut out, sorry you'll need to ask me later once I've had a chance to have a proper look.
Feel free to PM me
It is a relatively simple task drilling a hole, or making a cut-out.
I would suggest buying a spare back cover first though.
You will need;
something like a 2.5mm drill bit (just got HD like an hr ago not had chance to play with it or make measurements), 2 bits of masking tape, a small ruler or measuring tape, something to protect the back when laying it on a suitable surface to drill on.
Accurately measure where the button is in relation to where the hole is to be.
Put the Masking tape either side of the back roughly where the hole will be, then carefully transfer the measurements over on to the back and mark on the tape where the hole will be.
Using a suitable bit, while resting the back on something to prevent scratches, drill the hole.
Please note having a hole may increase chances of dust and lint getting into the battery compartment - you could resolve this by getting a small 10mm square piece of foam (same kind as used in light traps in cameras - its pretty thin).
For the Micro SD cut out, sorry you'll need to ask me later once I've had a chance to have a proper look.
Feel free to PM me
As above & using my trusty Dremmel in its drill press to get an accurate location.
Although, I'm also not too keen to have an 'open' hole on my case.
For an micro SD cut out cover, suppose you could use a small piece of sheet rubber: leave 2 lugs either side to secure the flap when closed and secure the flap to the back.
Or you could perform something approaching micro surgery and construct a carrier for it that replacesthe bit cut out for the hole.
why not install
holyfox's_poweroff-diamond.cab
ljazzo1 said:
why not install
holyfox's_poweroff-diamond.cab
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the first post - he wants this for when the device is frozen and a software reset would not be possible.
iPhoneLCD superior to Blackstone! but Blackstone practical than the iPhone!
I just bought a Boxwave 2500mah extended battery that comes with a extended battery door for my Touch HD and I think its pretty easy & possible to make reset hole for the battery door. You just need a really pointy and sharp exacto knife to puncture the plastic battery door and then just rotate the knife until you get your desired size of the hole. Tried this many times when I was still playing with "Lets Go Tamiya Cars".
About the hole for the microSD card, I think this one will be a little tricky to do because you might hit one of the locks for the door upon modification.
eaglesteve said:
Does anyone know if there is a third party Touch HD cover with a reset hole, so that we can perform reset wihtout having to remove the back cover?
I usually try to reset by software, but often this is not possible because the device is frozen, in which case I would remove the back cover and take off the battery.
How much more convenience there will be if I can just poke into the reset hold without removing the cover, isn't it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi eaglesteve,
If the device is frozen, can't you just reset by holding the power key down for 3 seconds? This should always kill the power, leading to a soft reset when you turn it back on. It's my preferred method for tboth the Blackstone and Diamond products.
mike.waters said:
Hi eaglesteve,
If the device is frozen, can't you just reset by holding the power key down for 3 seconds? This should always kill the power, leading to a soft reset when you turn it back on. It's my preferred method for tboth the Blackstone and Diamond products.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is that the Blackstone requires a touch confirmation and this is usually not possible when the device is frozen.
Hi,like this ?
Marcdu81 said:
Hi,like this ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this is crazy... why are u people drilling the cover when u can slide it out normally ...
Hi,
Where i can find a back cover with reset hole?
Thanx
I think you will have to buy a replacement battery cover and drill a hole in it yourself
Hi All
When I looked around for a bike and car mount for my Touch HD I wasn't very happy with what was available.
Specifically I wanted a 'protective' mount that would keep the phone dry and dirt/mud free, I also wanted to be able to leave the phone in the unit and step away without someone being able to grab the phone easily (I realise if someone wants to steal it they'll do it, however I want to at least slow them down if they try).
After searching I found the Ram Mount AQ3. It seemed perfect as it had a clear cover and was lockable, however it was 2mm too narrow to fit the phone.
Dremel time.
http://www.ram-mount-uk.com/ram-hol-aq3.htm
To achieve the following you need about an hour of time, a Dremel with standard fittings, a steady hand and a bit of concentration. If you've not used a dremel on plastic before I'd suggest practising on other tough plastic to get an idea of how the dremel reacts before going to work on your RAM Mount.
Please follow all the standard safety precautions using your Dremel, it's not my fault if you cut off your finger or an exploding bit blinds you.
The plan was to increase the internal width of the mount by about 1mm on each side and to have a cutaway that would allow a mini usb connector to fit the phone while it is in the mount.
IMPORTANT NOTE
Do NOT use the Dremel on a high speed setting, this generates heat and causes melting rather then the grinding you need. I used my Dremel on the lowest speed setting and constantly moved the area being worked on, after about 2-3 minutes on a 'side' I'd change to the other side to ensure the plastic didn't get heat buildup that would cause melting.
I decided to use a Dremel grinding tip to achieve my objective, specifically...
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=932
Make sure the Ram Mount is securely positioned and that you have good access to allow you to work across both the internal sides you want to grind. TAKE YOUR TIME.
You want the whole side of the Dremel bit to be in contact with the plastic, try to avoid angling the bit as you'll find that either just the top edge or bottom edge of the bit will be grinding the plastic.
Working in a smooth consistent way start to grind the internal area of the mount on one side, work gently from side to side on the area and do not stay on one part too long, heat buildup and melting happen surprising quickly and plastic will not grind if it's melting. Do not press down on the plastic too hard, let the bit do the work for you.
After working both sides say 5 times get a vacuum cleaner and remove all the ground residue that is in the area, use your finger to rub the internal areas to remove any small particles and vacuum thoroughly again.
Install the two thin padding sheets supplied with the mount and then install the phone.
Test to see if your phone now fits flush, if not try to identify the areas where you need extra grinding and rework them, try to ensure you remove equal amounts from both sides of the Mount. Always vacuum before trying to mount the phone, the dust grinding produces is extremely small and could get inside your phone if you're not careful.
When you're satisfied with the flush fit you then have to remove some extra plastic from the area near the volume buttons, with the phone fitted visually identify the top and bottom position where the buttons sit and spend maybe 2 minutes further grinding that area. Vacuum and install the phone to ensure the buttons are not pressed when the phone is fitted, repeat till you're happy.
You should now be able to mount your phone, fit the clear plastic cover and close and lock the lid, this should all be possible without the volume buttons reacting inside the case.
If you've got here well done, the next step is fairly straightforward.
With the phone fitted identify where the mini usb connector is on the phone, mark or score the plastic at both ends of the connector, remove the phone from the mount.
Using the following cut off wheel cut into the mount at the previous two marks.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=409
Again be careful using the cutting tool, the plastic will heat up and melt quite quickly.
Once you've cut down into the plastic on both the marks then cut at a 45 degree angle into the plastic that's going to be removed, you want to cut a V shape within the marks. Using the cutting tool keep working to remove blocks of plastic within the marks until you can mount your phone and connect a mini usb connector.
That's it, you should now have a secure lockable box that your Touch HD fits in perfectly.
Good Luck
Sorry about the photo quality, my flash camera is elsewhere at the moment.....If people are interested I'll take detailed photo's next week.
Case Closed
Case Closed with Cover in Place
Mini USB Cable attached
Any pics of the result ???
Thank you very much for this tips.
Photo's added above
i got this one crackinbg box
http://www.otterbox.com/handheld-pda-cases/1900-series-pda-case/
jez
Hey Everyone.
While sitting on my living room floor, I dropped my Prime & Dock from about a foot high onto the carpet. Murphy's Law: Gravity will always exert a greater force on the weakest part of your device. The Prime landed on the charging connector. I thought for sure the wire itself would be kinked up and broken (My mind is racing: "can I get a new cable from somewhere in less than 18 hours?! Argh!") As it turns out, the cable was fine, but the port itself was broken.
The little plastic comb that separates the upper pins from the lower pins was broken and had fallen out. I figured I would have to send the dock into Asus to be repaired one way or another, so I thought I'd take a stab at a repair. I used my smallest two flathead screwdrivers (PC-repair sized) to gently bend the upper pins further up and the lower pins lower down. I describe how little of an adjustment I'm talking about here- it has to create just enough room for you to slip the comb piece back in, but not be so much that the charge wire won't flatten them back down when you first connect it.
To make the comb stick, I used the smallest imaginable amount of superglue at either end of the comb piece. It seems the plastic is a little thicker there and there aren't any pins (that might get coated with glue) at the very ends. I used small needle-nose pliers to insert the comb and held it tight for a few seconds. I then put the dock in position so that the comb was facing straight up, so that gravity (grrr) wouldn't pull the comb piece down out of perfect vertical alignment while the glue cured. I left it overnight just to be safe.
Next morning, I plugged in the power connector and all was well. I've probably plugged and unplugged it 20 times or so now, and it feels reasonably solid. Mind you, I have NO doubt that this fix is temporary. The second I trip on the power cord or forget to be gentle with the device that superglue is going to let go. At that point maybe I'll send the dock off for repair. I just couldn't part with it this early on, knowing Asus is dealing with about a zillion more important fish to fry right now.
So, If you happen to have the same problem- give some glue a shot. It worked for me!
Kudos! I can't ask you to recreate and photo lol
But if anyone else runs into this, please take some macros of the process to give people a good idea of just how much bending of the pins is needed.
Naturally. I thought of taking pictures the next morning after everything was working again.
If the comb breaks out again, I'll probably attempt one more repair before I send it to Asus. If and when that happens I'll post up some pics.
As far as the bending of pins, I just pressed gently and tried to insert the comb piece with pliers. If it seemed too difficult to do with glue on the broken piece, I just set it down and pried on the pins a bit more. I guess if you looked at them, you would have been hard-pressed to tell if they were any wider than normal. The telling fact was being able to slide the broken piece back into the pins fairly easily. Once I could do that, I actually applied the glue, inserted the piece, and let it set up.
Curious if anyone is using the Palm Touchstone wireless charging mod for the SGS3. I got everything for a Palm Pre, touchstone, cable, etc.. Did the mod which was stupid easy... but the buldge of the back cover is driving me nuts. I have no idea how to make it more flush again. There is ZERO chance of putting an case on here now, for 1 it seems like the charging signal wouldn't be strong enough... and the buldge would absolutely prevent it.
Any help would be appreciated.
BTW: I used super thin 24 gauge wire out of a cable (like a usb cable/printer cable) to go from the palm pre charging pads to the pins of the sgs3.
I used the palm pixi's back for my mid. It is thinner that the pre's so there is less bulge.
Edit: I also used copper foil/tape to make my connections. I don't know if that would reduce bulge or not though.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
I read somewhere the pixi back was thinner but I read that after I ordered the pre back. I didn't have any copper foil tape so I used wire from a usb cable, and if I did use foil tape it seems like I would need something to push down into the phone connectors as they seem a tiny bit recessed.
Don't get me wrong, everything works, and charging works, but the bulge is noticeable and there is no way I could use a case back now. Glad I got the whole body Zagg invisible shield. :thumbup:
How did you address the phone connectors being deep inside? What did you use to make your foil tape touch the leads in the phone? I just kind of pushed the wires in there and used a little rape to prevent shorts.
T-Mobile Samsung Galaxy S3 SGH-T999 Tapatalk 2
On the Sprint model there is no sim card. If you cut a square out of the internal cover to the right of the microSD card you have a nice little space to hide the circuit board that causes the buldge. I just posted a question- where to buy the internal plastic cover? I don't want to risk screwing up my original.. BTW I used copper tape. On the pixie back I soldered the tape to the leads. For the phone connection I cut the tape too long and rolled it up to the spot it needed to be to make contact with the S3 contacts.
I have the touchstone and palm charging back. Is it possible to do this mod without soldiering the GS3?
Roll the tape up...:fingers-crossed: Sometimes I hate myself, I always think of the hardest way to do something.... Of course - why not roll the tape into a little ball. DUH!
I think I could probably get the bulge down a little, but I'm not sure it would make a lot of difference... I guess I could always just buy a pixi back and try again? or just wait for Sept and get the samsung kit.
I had read that the samsung kit will charge when the phone is relatively close by - I read 2 meters, but that doesnt sound right - that would be like 6ft... I would settle for 1 ft. The touchstone has to be RIGHT on it... If I had an otterbox case, I am 99% sure the magnetics wouldn't catch and I doubt think the charging field would work, because I can hold it just above the reach of the magnets and no charge. Touch it to the touchstone and BINGO.
I've just successfully converted my GSM Razr to a Maxx today and like to share some of the experience...
As basic orientation, the instructional video from CRS is okay, together with the images on Ifixit.com they provide good help, although they fall a bit short at some points.
The following only reflects my own opinion/experience... if you're not as clumsy or cautious as I am - good for you.
Stuff you need to get:
Get the black maxx PCB frame. And get a replacement camera bezel.
T3, T4 and T5 Torx screwdriver. Yes, T4 too, wait till you read why.
For opening up the phone and handling parts, you need these as well:
I needed each one of them and besides the Torx, nothing else was required.
Get a bunch of these for cheap on Ebay. Color or vendor don't matter, they're all made of the same stuff.
The tools you don't need:
iSesamo... don't order it. And don't use it if you get it sent to you nonetheless (like in my case). It's made of metal.
Not only can it easily get you some nasty dents/scratches at the side of the housing, it can, when being handled unfortunately, destroy the electronics on your phone's motherboard... you don't want that.
The spudger.. I don't know, I didn't need it at any point
Here are some additions to the CRS & Ifixit documentations:
I) In CRS' video and on the Ifixit website, you will read that T3 + T5 screwdrivers are required. Unfortunately, they both either made a mistake, or the production process has been altered, because T4 is needed as well; actually, all but 3 (of all those described as T3) were infact T4 torx screws. Imagine my heartbeat when I tried to use a T3 on the screws and it didn't fit
II) I did (negligently) break the camera bezel while removing it. If you don't use a heatgun/dryer to losen the adhesive beneath it, you will almost certainly break it. And that's ok, because a replacement bezel costs 6$, while damaging stuff like the rear camera with too much heat costs almost tenfold.
I honestly can't tell if it is really dangerous to heat up stuff like the camera or not, I just didn't want to risk it.
III) Opening the phone and removing parts is a pain in the ***. You're brest served using...
- The thick long prying tool and the thick plectrum for opening the housing.
- The thick long prying tool to remove the the PCB frame.
- The slim long prying tool for removing the speaker from the old housing without damage (don't use a screwdriver or so)
- The slim long prying tool for removing/replacing the battery pole rubber cover and the mic rubber grommet.
- The slim plectrum to slide it under the battery and losen it before even thinking about pulling the "battery removal" grip.
- The slim plectrum or the slim prying tool for losening sensitive parts of the housing (e.g. sim door)
Generally, opening/removing parts is a hassle but if you take your time and exercise medium caution, you won't damage anything of value.
IV) CRS delivers (or at least did in my case) only 1 piece of double sided adhesive to stick the back side of the new battery, while the original battery has adhesive on BOTH sides.
V) Test run your device after you inserted the new battery (and secured its screws). If everything runs ok, then proceed to snap on the black housing frame and the back cover.
VI) Make sure the housing frame and back cover snap on tightly (=correctly) at every single spot, ESPECIALLY at the SIM card door.
I recommend starting to snap on the back cover exactly at that spot, making sure that the thin lower frame part of the SIM card door snaps on tightly. If you mess up that spot, you might be unable to correct it without re-removing the entire back door.
That should be sufficient for now...
Oh BTW:
The back door cover delivered by CRS has a fat "4G Verizon" writing on it. Live with it -.-