Discussion forum for the new proprietary USB 3.0 connector (with additional hidden pins inside the standard micro USB 2.0 port) on some of our LG G2's.
Yes, many of us have this brilliantly designed, very unique, 11 pin micro USB connector on the LG G2. Take a look inside of the connector on your own G2, do you see extra gold pins set back further inside? Some are saying yes, some no. This connector is NOT the hideous dual-head connector that we have seen on the note 3, the G2's is much more compact and discrete. On the surface it looks just like a regular micro USB 2.0 port, and yet it is 100% backward compatible with micro USB 2.0 connectors, which is why it has gone unnoticed!
UPDATE (2014-05-27):
----------------------------------------------
WHAT WE DO KNOW
This is not the first time the micro USB 3.0 connector has been brought up,
Link to dead discussion: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2441955
The G2's Snapdragon 800 chipset supports USB3.0 natively
Design: The new connector looks just like a regular micro USB 2.0 port, but hidden inside the connector are an additional set of pins (3 pins on left, standard 5 pins in center, and 3 pins on right), which would require a slightly modified micro USB connector to mate with them. In all, this new connector is an 11-pin connector, is 100% micro USB 2.0 backward compatible, and yet is capable of providing USB 3.0 connectivity.
Models that have the 11-pin connector:
D800 (AT&T): 1 of 1
D801 (T-MOBILE): 1 of 1
D802 (GLOBAL): 6 of 8
D803 (CANADA): 1 of 1
D805 (LATIN AMERICA): 1 of 1
LS980 (SPRINT): 1 of 1
VZ980 (VERIZON): 1 of 1
F320 (KOREAN): NA
Models that have the 11-pin connector, and also have the signal data filter chips installed:
Chances are, if you have the chips, then you have a working USB 3.0 interface.
(remove back cover, and look for two larger 6-pin chips just behind USB connector)
D800 (AT&T): NA
D801 (T-MOBILE): NA
D802 (GLOBAL): NA
D803 (CANADA): NA
D805 (LATIN AMERICA): NA
LS980 (SPRINT): 1 of 1
VZ980 (VERIZON): NA
F320 (KOREAN): NA
The new proprietary 11-pin Samsung MHL connector does not have the same pin layout as the G2's 11-pin connector, and the MHL video-out adapter standard is not compatible with the G2.
The SlimPort video-out adapter standard is compatible with the G2, but does not have the 11-pin connector.
WHAT WE DO NOT KNOW
How many devices/models have the new connector- list is growing
Is the internal circuitry present to connect at USB 3.0 using this new connector
(RESPONSE LEGEND: CONNECTOR-CIRCUITRY:STATS)
D800 (AT&T): NA
D801 (T-MOBILE): NA
D802 (GLOBAL): (NA-NO: 1 of 1)
D803 (CANADA): NA
D805 (LATIN AMERICA): NA
LS980 (SPRINT): ] NA
VZ980 (VERIZON): NA
F320 (KOREAN): NA
Who makes the mate, and where can it be purchased?
Has anyone hardwired the 3.0 connection and tested whether the kernel is ready
----------------------------------------------
Below is a hand drawing of this new micro USB 3.0 connector, compared to the standard micro USB 2.0 connector. I have plans to update the drawing in time, since I later discovered that there is only one notch in the new design, as opposed to the drawing showing two notches passing through the new connector.
I have yet to forge an adapter to test the functionality, but if we get confirmation that the circuitry is there, I will do my best to klooge one together soon, since I cannot find any data on where to find/purchase a matching mate online.
Nevertheless, the new connector is on some of the G2's, and is worth updating this post with your findings and results.
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Best picture I can get
First photo:
Top phone shows standard micro usb from a motorola, bottom phone is LG G2 showing 11 pin connector.
Second + photo's:
This is what the connector looks like...
What kind of LG G2 you have. Because mine is a LG G2 D802 with a standard micro usb 5 pins ....
roboticienfr said:
What kind of LG G2 you have. Because mine is a LG G2 D802 with a standard micro usb 5 pins ....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the LS980 Sprint model. I would bet that you have the same connector, it is really hard to notice the rear pins, because on the surface, the usb connector looks like a standard 2.0 micro usb.
The easiest thing to look for in the connector is stopping block inside the connector. First you will see the standard 5-pin mezzanine (or thin plastic tongue with 5 pins on it) inside the hole, then right behind it a stopping block (or wall to prevent a standard usb 2.0 cable from going in any further). In a normal micro USB 2.0 connector, this rear wall covers the whole portion of the inside rear of the connector, but on the G2, this wall has an additional depth stopping point. So, look right behind the 5-pin mezzanine and hopefully you will see the stop block end just before the edges of the mezzanine and then it will go back further into the connector on both sides of the block. On both sides of this mezzanine, if you have really good eyes and a flash light, you will see a total of two additional 3-gold pin mezzanines. All totaling 11 pins.
Keep me posted!
I have just checked with a microscope and there is only 5 pins in mine. Maybe because these are 2 different models :s
roboticienfr said:
I have just checked with a microscope and there is only 5 pins in mine. Maybe because these are 2 different models :s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked stellatech website (phone parts) and the d802 circuit has a picture that claims to show the same 11 pin connector on it as well. Could be the wrong pic, or for some reason your unit doesn't have it. Can anyone else confirm?
On my d802 I can see what look like extra pins set a fair bit further back?
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
ephumuris said:
On my d802 I can see what look like extra pins set a fair bit further back?
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah D802 and nothing there... except those pins/locks/holes or what that is, that hold the connector...
m8 shave your micro usb
My Verizon G2 has the USB 3.0 USB port
In fact, it only likes to FAST charge off that cable. Other cables will barely charge it.
from what I've read somewhere the g2 has the circuitry for usb 3 but not the chipset. maybe this is how they enabled fast charging? is that why Windows prompts me my device could perform faster if plugged into a usb3 port? (it doesn't)
Sent from Tapatalk using my xposed VZW G2
somnambulator said:
from what I've read somewhere the g2 has the circuitry for usb 3 but not the chipset. maybe this is how they enabled fast charging? is that why Windows prompts me my device could perform faster if plugged into a usb3 port? (it doesn't)
Sent from Tapatalk using my xposed VZW G2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The opposite really.
G2 has the Chipset support. Snapdragon 800 supports USB3 natively. But there is no circuitry inside my D802.
That feature is deliberately cut back to save costs and announce it in the future as an incremental upgrade.
bender_007 said:
m8 shave your micro usb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's scratches wouldn't know they are there without the picture....
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
Ah, so this is why Samsung's dock won't fit. I thought Samsung is the one that use proprietary connectors..
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
sanke1 said:
The opposite really.
G2 has the Chipset support. Snapdragon 800 supports USB3 natively. But there is no circuitry inside my D802.
That feature is deliberately cut back to save costs and announce it in the future as an incremental upgrade.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So with that said, I assume your d802 unit does not have the modified proprietary micro usb connector? If it does not have it, then that may explain the missing circuitry. Although, if you do have the new connector and yet no circuitry, then it seems that we have a no-win situation. I do not plan to disassemble my G2 anytime soon, so hopefully someone will be able to confirm soon.
As for "incremental upgrade" comment, that crossed my mind as well, maybe they wanted to secretly test the USB connectors ruggedness, since it likely has a new SMT circuit pattern; to verify that it would hold up when they announced the new usb 3.0 connector. Maybe they thought it would be better if they tested out it's ruggedness, even small scale like "sprint only" phones, before officially announcing the new connector on their newest flagship product.
farhanito said:
Ah, so this is why Samsung's dock won't fit. I thought Samsung is the one that use proprietary connectors..
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm certain the new connector has nothing to do with the dock compatibility, by design, the new micro usb 3.0 connector it is 100% backward compatible with standard micro usb 2.0 plugs.
1branchonthevine said:
So with that said, I assume your d802 unit does not have the modified proprietary micro usb connector? If it does not have it, then that may explain the missing circuitry. Although, if you do have the new connector and yet no circuitry, then it seems that we have a no-win situation. I do not plan to disassemble my G2 anytime soon, so hopefully someone will be able to confirm soon.
As for "incremental upgrade" comment, that crossed my mind as well, maybe they wanted to secretly test the USB connectors ruggedness, since it likely has a new SMT circuit pattern; to verify that it would hold up when they announced the new usb 3.0 connector. Maybe they thought it would be better if they tested out it's ruggedness, even small scale like "sprint only" phones, before officially announcing the new connector on their newest flagship product.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Our best bet would be to wait out current gen phones and upgrade to newer phones when they have a proper USB3 upport which transfers to and fro fast.
I thought the extra pins were for Slimport.
diamond12 said:
I thought the extra pins were for Slimport.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Diamond... what model do you have?
Actually the Slimport adapter (and MHL both) use the same standard micro usb 2.0 connector. Also there is no notch on the slimport usb port, so it becomes quickly apparent that they do not use the 10-pin connector.
If you are interested in reading, there is a good description on Anandtech summarizing what makes SlimPort different from MHL:
"SlimPort is a new video output standard which works over microUSB, and is effectively an MHL alternative based on the DisplayPort standard administered by VESA. SlimPort is offered both license and royalty free, and supports up to 1080p60 or 1080p30 with 3D content over HDMI 1.4 (up to 5.4 Gbps of bandwidth), in addition to support for DVI, VGA (up to 1366x768 and 720p at 60 Hz), and DisplayPort."
Guyz pinout from service manual is :
L1, L2, L3, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, L4, L5, L6
L1 goes to USB_SS_RX_M (USB_3.0_RX-)
L2 goes to USB_SS_RX_P (USB_3.0_RX+)
L3 goes to VCC
1 to 5 is normal uUSB connector
1 goes to VCC
2 goes to USB_HS1_DM_SLIM1 (D- or RX)
3 goes to USB_HS1_DP_SLIM1 (D+ or TX)
4 goes to USB_ID
5 goes to GND
L4 goes to GND
L5 goes to USB_SS_TX_M (USB_3.0_TX-)
L6 goes to USB_SS_TX_P (USB_3.0_TX+)
All USB 3.0 pins goes to USB ReDriver.
Related
I just made my own "car dock" cable based on the information over the "Fun with resistors" thread.
Basically I have a cable with a micro-usb connector that switch my phone to "car dock" mode, audio via usb/aux and charging.
CHECK THE 2ND POST FOR UPDATES, PICTURES AND A QUICK VIDEO.
WARNING:
This cable can physically damage/destroy your phone if made incorrectly.
If you don't have experience soldering electronics and small parts maybe you should not try this.
The usb cable will NOT work for sync/data - just charging.
I'm not responsible if you damage or destroy your phone/property and/or injury yourself or others.
Use this instructions at your own risk.
Parts that I used:
micro usb male connector (Digi-Key pn: 609-4051-ND)
619K ohm resistor (Digi-Key pn: RNF14FTD619KCT-ND)
6ft 3.5mm Stereo Plug/Plug M/M Cable (MonoPrice.com pid: 644)
1.5ft USB 2.0 A Male to Micro 5pin Male 28/28AWG Cable (MonoPrice.com pid: 5137)
I should have used a longer cable but that's what I had at home
This is the pin-out for the usb connector:
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Preparations:
1) Cut one of the aux cable connectors and expose the 3 wires:
Yellow = common ground
White = right channel
Red = left channel
The left/right channel may be inverted, test on your phone before you make the cable.
2) Cut the micro usb connector from the usb cable and expose the 4 wires:
Red = +5vcc
Black = ground
Green = not used
White = not used
Soldering:
Start with the audio cable:
Solder left channel wire to pin 2
Solder right channel wire to pin 3
Do NOT solder the ground wire yet
Now with the usb cable:
Solder red wire wire to pin 1
Do NOT solder the ground (black wire) yet
With the resistor:
Solder 1 resistor leg to pin 4
Solder the other resistor leg + audio ground (yellow wire) + usb ground (black wire) to pin 5
Almost done...
Test all the connections for short-circuit with a digital multimeter
Triple check for the right cable on the right place, you don't want to put that +5vcc on the wrong pin, it will fry your phone!
Just finish it with some epoxy glue to make sure the cables won't break where you soldered them and some shrink tube for a polished finish.
You must go to Settings > Dock Settings > Audio output mode and enable it to have the audio-out working.
I will post pictures next week when I will make a new cable with longer usb and better finish.
The cable I have now works fine, it's just ugly...
I hope this info will be useful for someone
Thanks to TheBeano for the info about the resistors
* * U P D A T E * *
( a . k . a . v e r s i o n 2 . 0 )
Hello all!
Thank you to all the people who rated this thread and enjoyed the info
After building my first cable from two different cables and finishing it up with some epoxy putty I started searching for a better and easier way to build this cable.
While searching on some Chinese accessories website I've found an iPhone USB/aux cable that would make this build easier and nicer.
This is the USB/aux cable from DealExtreme.com (item #34654):
From eBay I got this micro-usb connector with a "housing" (link):
The resistor is the same from the original post:
With this parts in hand I started by taking the iPhone connector apart:
With the soldering iron I removed the connector and with an blade I removed the cable "terminator"(?) so I could expose more wire and use my own "terminator"(?):
Using a multimeter and my "pro-mod" I was able to verify the cables and plugs.
All cables matched so I started soldering:
After checking for short-circuits and fixing the mistake I always make (I invert left and right channels) it was time to squeeze everything inside that tiny housing:
It looks nice but now let's test it:
Pictures are worth 1,000 words but a video is priceless (don't mind the music):
Great write up!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using xda premium
Nice write up. Very useful. Thanks
Awesome, gunna order some of these parts.
Exactly What I Wanted
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Once I see a picture/video of it in action, I'll get the parts. Question is, are you going to make your own car dock for it? Or are you going to purchase a generic dock? I'd like something that I can slide the phone into easily (and have the phone be horizontal). I am curious about the possibility of getting Digital Audio out instead of Analog. You seem to be the expert, do you think that's possible? Thanks!
I'm 95% certain digital audio out is not possible, except maybe for MHL/HDMI audio output via the MHL adapter.
There just aren't any provisions for it.
Thanks guys for the replies!
I got some PM about selling the cable. Right now I can't do it as I don't have enough time to make a good and durable cable.
The cable I have is kinda put together with epoxy putty and some shrink tubes.
Today I tested the cable and it works fine on my car.
I just found some iPod/iPhone cable that I think can make this build be easier and faster, basically you will change the apple connector for the micro-usb and add the resistor. I still waiting for the parts to arrive to test this new idea.
As Entropy512 said digital audio isn't possible with this setup but I will look in to it in the future to see if it's possible to use the mhl adaptor just for the audio.
Tomorrow I will post the pictures and a small video from it working with my current cable.
Thanks once again for the replies!
This is awesome thanks!! If you can create a few of these I would definitely be in for buying one. I am hoping to replace my itouch in the car with the phone. I already have a nice dock thus just need a cable.
LGSilva said:
Thanks guys for the replies!
I got some PM about selling the cable. Right now I can't do it as I don't have enough time to make a good and durable cable.
The cable I have is kinda put together with epoxy putty and some shrink tubes.
Today I tested the cable and it works fine on my car.
I just found some iPod/iPhone cable that I think can make this build be easier and faster, basically you will change the apple connector for the micro-usb and add the resistor. I still waiting for the parts to arrive to test this new idea.
As Entropy512 said digital audio isn't possible with this setup but I will look in to it in the future to see if it's possible to use the mhl adaptor just for the audio.
Tomorrow I will post the pictures and a small video from it working with my current cable.
Thanks once again for the replies!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
CNLiberal said:
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use MHL->HDMI adapter then put in a HDMI->Digital audio converter to get the digital audio out without any modification to software. MonoPrice.com has both but I believe the later requires some external AC power.
I have an official Samsung car dock for my Captivate. After reading OP's post, I decided to mod that car dock. I stripe out the part that connects to Captivate USB port and contains microUSB socket for power and 3.5mm audio jack (it already has the required resisitor inside). Now all I need is some 5-wire microUSB male to female extension cable. This kind of cable is hard to come by but do exist.
I did some reading in the 'fun with resistors' thread, and while this mod looks to work, I'm worried about the lack of sufficient charging amperage. It seems that in order to do "high current charging" you need to short pins 4 and 5 on the micro USB plug. Well, those are in use by the audio output. This seems to be a _major_ design flaw in MHL. So basically, you'd have to turn off anything you don't need (WiFi primarily, maybe Bluetooth if you don't want integrated hands-free with your car's head-unit) in order to get an actual charge. So maybe this cable with a Tasker function to turn off those services and activate your Car Home app.
Please take what I say with a grain of salt. Again, I'm very new to Android and I'm probably wrong.
CNLiberal said:
I did some reading in the 'fun with resistors' thread, and while this mod looks to work, I'm worried about the lack of sufficient charging amperage. It seems that in order to do "high current charging" you need to short pins 4 and 5 on the micro USB plug. Well, those are in use by the audio output. This seems to be a _major_ design flaw in MHL. So basically, you'd have to turn off anything you don't need (WiFi primarily, maybe Bluetooth if you don't want integrated hands-free with your car's head-unit) in order to get an actual charge. So maybe this cable with a Tasker function to turn off those services and activate your Car Home app.
Please take what I say with a grain of salt. Again, I'm very new to Android and I'm probably wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The device assumes that a proper high-current supply is present when a dock or MHL ID resistor is detected.
---------- Post added at 01:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 PM ----------
CNLiberal said:
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In theory, I believe the device has USB Host/USB OTG support - but I know very little about enabling it. It MIGHT be possible to get USB sound cart to sort-of work - but getting the phone to route audio to the "new" interface would be extremely difficult.
I used to deal with Digikey decades ago .....
Are they selling "onesies" of parts now or do you have to buy multiples?
The items that I've listed you can buy just 1.
They have other items where the minimum order is 5000.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using xda premium
Mouser is usually a bit better about minimum order quantity though - I think digikey improved over the years in that regard.
Usually Mouser has their quantity price breaks earlier.
Entropy512 said:
Mouser is usually a bit better about minimum order quantity though - I think digikey improved over the years in that regard.
Usually Mouser has their quantity price breaks earlier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mouser sells singles.
Sent from my Samsung SGH-I897 using XDA Premium
Stevenrogers_420 said:
Mouser sells singles.
Sent from my Samsung SGH-I897 using XDA Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that - that's why I've always preferred them. But I think digikey has improved so that they're closer to Mouser for small quantity orders now.
Going to try this later this week, should be awesome if it works!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
bunnybash said:
Going to try this later this week, should be awesome if it works!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm this works.. just finished building it tonight and functions fine.
Have fun!
Upgraded my wife to a Rezound that came in yesterday. What the heck is up with the proprietary cable?
I thought we'd all moved past this nonsense. I had a standard Micro-USB cable with my Dinc2 that worked JUST FINE.
And before you all feel the need to tell me, yes I KNOW that a standard Micro-USB cable will still charge the Rezound, but why make the included cable different then?
Sorry for the rant. Carry on...
BustVZW said:
Upgraded my wife to a Rezound that came in yesterday. What the heck is up with the proprietary cable?
I thought we'd all moved past this nonsense. I had a standard Micro-USB cable with my Dinc2 that worked JUST FINE.
And before you all feel the need to tell me, yes I KNOW that a standard Micro-USB cable will still charge the Rezound, but why make the included cable different then?
Sorry for the rant. Carry on...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stupid rant. Its called an EXT-micro usb. It is EXACTLY the same to use your old cables, these are just more secure and keep dumbasses from forcing the plugs in upside down.
yeah man, it's def a more secure lock than the standard micro usb i believe. fits a lot more snug; maybe now we won't be seeing the problems we saw iwth the Inc 2, which was all of the usb charge ports coming lose on the board and having to be replaced!!
No, its a totally legit rant. This is my first micro-usb phone, and as such, the provided cable is the only one in the house. Most of my friends and my wife have micro-usb phones and none of them can use my cable in a pinch. HTC did the same thing with my TP2 and its mini ext port, and it was an annoyance more often than you would expect.
This "policy" only screws owners with a unitasker cable (alton brown anyone??), while providing no noticeable benefit (making sure its plugged in correctly? really? This cable doesnt make it easier to plug in blindly, and if you have to look at it to plug it in anyway, then regular micro-usb cables shouldn't be any problem...). I'm right there with ya, Bust
edit: I suppose a more stable connection, due to it being bigger than a standard micro port is a valid argument, but I havent had any problems with the standard micro cables that I've tried.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't one of the advantages of the ext USB that it can also carry audio? I think this is what allows the MHL and hdmi adapters to work, as well as the car docks that you just set the phone in to charge and play audio. And since it is backward compatible, there seems to be no disadvantage to using the newer port.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA App
It's a stupid rant because a standard HTC micro USB cable is like 4 bucks shipped. If you have so many issues with it, buy the four dollar one. I prefer my the ext micro USB, the standard micro USB on my OG Droid sucked, always felt like I was going to break the damn thing.
Seriously, it's four bucks.
tynan said:
Seriously, it's four bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont think anyone is complaining about the cost of extra cables, just the fact that the cable cant be used for anything else. I'd be picking up extra cables anyway. In my experience with the mini-ext, I loved the fact that I could use one of the 20 mini cables I had lying around. Seriously...cameras, mp3 players, mice, GPSs...everything had a cable that would charge my phone. The fact that the cable provided by HTC could only be used for one device just seemed silly to me. Its not a big deal, which may be a requirement of yours for rants to be considered valid, but it is a legit gripe...IMO.
BustVZW said:
Upgraded my wife to a Rezound that came in yesterday. What the heck is up with the proprietary cable?
I thought we'd all moved past this nonsense. I had a standard Micro-USB cable with my Dinc2 that worked JUST FINE.
And before you all feel the need to tell me, yes I KNOW that a standard Micro-USB cable will still charge the Rezound, but why make the included cable different then?
Sorry for the rant. Carry on...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They did it just to piss you off .
Its a new standard... micro USB had similar rants about it... (just like any new standard) "I can't use my reguar USB cables with it, regular USB was fine blah blah" just like any new standard connection it takes people a while to catch up.
The complaint about single use cable... HDMI is single use yet no one complains about it.
This cable is a new standard that combines USB with a media (HDMI) connection. This allows us to have only one connection port on our devices rather than two. Which brings up the point that other phones had special one off connections for HDMI that required an adapter, and it took up extra room on the device.
Micro USB was pretty much the standard for phones for at least the past year and a half, (not just smart phones either) and all those cords are compatible with this new standard.
At least this is a new standard and not some HTC only crap.
I ordered my Rezound online. What pissed me off was .... I get my new phone and suddenly I can not charge the dam thing in my car because the plug is different than my Touch Pro 2 / old Motorola Q9 handset usb cord. Then I had to run up to the dumb VZW store and pay $32 for a proprietary car charger . Man, what a rip.
---------- Post added at 06:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:00 AM ----------
I suppose in 2 years they will change it again and suddenly we all will have to buy that new $45 Nano-USB cord/adaptor. :s
You people do realize the normal micro USB cables fit in the Rezound right ?
ilkevinli said:
You people do realize the normal micro USB cables fit in the Rezound right ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah from all the other posts I believe they do. I know I do and use them all over the place (work, car, bedroom, family room, etc.). I like the fact the new one snaps in and would love to get a couple more.
THE-COPS said:
I ordered my Rezound online. What pissed me off was .... I get my new phone and suddenly I can not charge the dam thing in my car because the plug is different than my Touch Pro 2 / old Motorola Q9 handset usb cord. Then I had to run up to the dumb VZW store and pay $32 for a proprietary car charger . Man, what a rip.
---------- Post added at 06:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:00 AM ----------
I suppose in 2 years they will change it again and suddenly we all will have to buy that new $45 Nano-USB cord/adaptor. :s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
umm, you can get some standard micro usb cords. The tp2 and q9 handsets are quite old and use mini-usb's which haven't been the standard in about 2 years. you can also buy mini to micro usb adapters that plug into the mini usb and make it a micro usb. Cost me 5bucks a piece on amazon...
Or you could complain about not doing your homework before you bought the phone. Yeah, lets do that instead...
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Mini...4GOQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1324036647&sr=8-2
---------- Post added at 05:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:58 AM ----------
NilsP said:
Yeah from all the other posts I believe they do. I know I do and use them all over the place (work, car, bedroom, family room, etc.). I like the fact the new one snaps in and would love to get a couple more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would stick to the higher quality micro usb cords, like the ones that have come with other htc phones. Those have worked fine for me, but a split micro usb cord I use at work to charge my bolt and my hotspot caused my phone to overheat.
Not My Problem Other People Can't Use My Cable. It Would Be Nice And Generous As I Like To Be; I Can't Please Everyone.
Also Think Back Before The Micro-USB Almost Every Phone Has A Different Cable For Charging.
Marine6680 said:
This cable is a new standard that combines USB with a media (HDMI) connection. This allows us to have only one connection port on our devices rather than two. Which brings up the point that other phones had special one off connections for HDMI that required an adapter, and it took up extra room on the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If this is true, I'll take back everything I said. Link?
BustVZW said:
If this is true, I'll take back everything I said. Link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK two things...
First, this is NOT ExtUSB. ExtUSB was what the older HTC devices had. It was compatible with the mini-USB. It combined mini-USB with audio out connections. (11 pin VS the standard 5, while normal USB was 4)
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That is the ExtUSB, it is shaped like the mini-USB but with only one bottom corner tapered.
Here is a picture of other styles as comparison. The type most used with mobile devices was mini-B, the new standard for phones is micro-B
Second, the Rezound uses MHL, it is compatible with both variants of microUSB cables.
Wikipedia page about MHL
Oh, and this too...
Um the cable fits my old incredible just turn it around stays in good as well.
sent from my new Rezound
jcdrummr said:
No, its a totally legit rant. This is my first micro-usb phone, and as such, the provided cable is the only one in the house. Most of my friends and my wife have micro-usb phones and none of them can use my cable in a pinch. HTC did the same thing with my TP2 and its mini ext port, and it was an annoyance more often than you would expect.
This "policy" only screws owners with a unitasker cable (alton brown anyone??), while providing no noticeable benefit (making sure its plugged in correctly? really? This cable doesnt make it easier to plug in blindly, and if you have to look at it to plug it in anyway, then regular micro-usb cables shouldn't be any problem...). I'm right there with ya, Bust
edit: I suppose a more stable connection, due to it being bigger than a standard micro port is a valid argument, but I havent had any problems with the standard micro cables that I've tried.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know about you but I have numerous mico-USB cables sitting around from my older phones.
Marine6680 said:
OK two things...
First, this is NOT ExtUSB. ExtUSB was what the older HTC devices had. It was compatible with the mini-USB. It combined mini-USB with audio out connections. (11 pin VS the standard 5, while normal USB was 4)
That is the ExtUSB, it is shaped like the mini-USB but with only one bottom corner tapered.
Here is a picture of other styles as comparison. The type most used with mobile devices was mini-B, the new standard for phones is micro-B
Second, the Rezound uses MHL, it is compatible with both variants of microUSB cables.
Wikipedia page about MHL
Oh, and this too...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is an extMICRO usb, not an ext usb. Next time read a little better before trying to disprove something that was not even stated.
brockeverly said:
It is an extMICRO usb, not an ext usb. Next time read a little better before trying to disprove something that was not even stated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only device I heard of using extmicro is the flyer. Looking in our devices port it seems to be just 5 pins. I believe extmicro is 12 pin. I have a MHL adapter and I use a standard 5 pin micro usb cable with it and it works fine. It passes audio and video over the cable.
First:
Major Credit to SDX's FTEN for being first with his very original idea and micro Usb version of this hardware mod. If it weren't for him, I would not have dared to do this.
See his original thread: Self Powered USB Host on the HP Touchpad! and at RootzWiki
SDX Version of this thread
Rootzwiki Version of this thread
DISCLAIMER: I'm not a dev, nor do I play one on t.v. Use the information and links at your own risk. Read and understand what you're doing FIRST is the best bet. I take no credit for the original idea, just ran a bit farther out on the branch before it broke.
Afterwards be sure to check out:
[Tips and Tricks] OTG (USB Host Support) - Requires kernel support
and
My 2 Port 2 Amp OTG Charger & Mod post further down.
This is a difficult modification that requires you to completely disassemble Touchpad (correct tools a plus), cut and dremel out excess material from the back cover (risk of permanent damage) and display frame. You also need to have some soldering equipment plus skill with very small circuit boards/traces (if you want more than a full size power port) and loads of patience (this took several hours over 4-6 separate days).
Still interested? Have a look:
Parts:
- USB-A Female Connector from a USB Extension cable (and it's spare wire)
(or optional microUSB breakout as FTEN used in his original version)
- Small, thin, SPDT switch (single pole double throw) from a Dollar Store toy, ie "DollarTree"
- VPack PRT-08290 (5v Regulator) and it's PDF Reference file
- micro USB (M) connector from a cable or OTG Adapter (if you can't get the Enable switch landed you'll need this cut up into a plug with the ID pin shorted)
( or maybe AppleCable's Powered OTG Cable )
Tools:
- Spudger Tool set (or similar for cracking open the TP)
- Variable Speed Dremel with "Rotary File" bit
- Decent Soldering Iron (ie: Weller WES51) with small conical tip, and small electrical solder (LeadFree compatible recommended)
- Hobby knife Set (ie X-Acto with various blades and handles)
- Hot Glue Gun and sticks
Basic Disassembly/Reassembly: iFixit's HP Touchpad Battery Removal Guide
(You should be confident with the above. Be prepared to break a few of the 7 clips; superglue helps).
The Finished Product:
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Part 0 - Parts, Planning, & Schematics:
My Original sketch of the wiring schematic for the mod
The 3.7v to 5vdc Step-Up Regulator board
My wife's Simon Toy supplied the OTG Enable Switch (she wasn't thrilled)
Here's another option for the switch from my local "DollarTree" store
Here's the Full Size USB-A Extension Cable before and after modifiying
Lesson Learned: Go ahead and strip the Potting Material off the USB-A (F) connector to expose the 4 solder points and remove the wires (or at least the 2 DATA lines). I think you will have better success if you "land" the Data wires and OTG Enable Switch wire to the TP's USB Controller Board first and then connect the leads to the USB-A Connector and Enable Switch since those solder points are more durable.
** Make sure that the cable wiring is "Copper Colored" not silver, etc. The copper wire will solder more easily without damage to the USB Controller Board later on **
Part 1 Pictures (MB Power Leads and Routing):
Part 1 pictures (Sim Slot Modification & Test Fitting):
When it's all mounted up (Later) the connector will stick out the back like this:
Part 1 Pictures (Regulator/Connector Placement and Wiring)
Soldering the Battery leads to the Regulator input (take time to get the length & routing correct)
* See Previous note about soldering Data and OTG Switch wire to USB Controller Board First *
Here the 5vdc to the USB connector is soldered to the Regulator Output & a DC Rtn from the regulator is soldered to the switch's "common".
Part 2 Pictures (Sim Slot/Display frame notching)
Part 3 Pictures (USB Controller Board info)
Part 3 Pictures (USB Controller Board info)
Note: You can skip this step if you just want a full size USB-A power port and don't care about it having working "data" communication and OTG Enable Switch (I screwed up the enable switch solder pad).
Please read the notes in the pictures for this section, they will help avoid my mistakes.
Part 4 Pictures (finished)
Updated: 12-3-12
Additional Reference Info
Here'a an OTG Cable reference schematic that I made to help people make their own OTG cables and OTG shorting plugs. It works as a good reference to figure out how a purchased cable is wired up (some are different).
And here's a picture of the micro-USB breakout board (4pins only) from Sparkfun.com that Ften used in his original mod mentioned at the top of the OP. If you prefer, you can squeeze this into the sim slot without dremeling the back cover to a "paper thinness" and hook up your data and pwr to it, but you will have to make or purchase a male microUSB to USB-A adapter (an OTG one would work since there isn't an ID pin hooked up). I avoided this option because I don't want someone hooking it up to a USB wall charger by accident and possibly killing the regulator
2 Port 2Amp USB OTG Charger & Mod
Here's an update...
My CrazyOnDigital 2 port charger doesn't have the data pins shorted (D+ and D-) like the stock HTC unit. This causes any "Android" phone to charge at the lower 500ma Max "Charging USB" rate vs "AC Charging" (explains my slow charging when travelling), but a bonus is that it allows me to pass data b/w the 2 ports like a simple hub.
- If the D+ and D- pins are shorted when an OTG USB cable is plugged in, the phone/device will go into "AC Charging" mode, but not allow OTG devices to work, but if the phone is still connected and the data pins opened back up, you retain "AC Charging" mode and have USB OTG functions.
(I'm thinking that a simple on/off switch installed across the data pins of my charger will give me a dual mode charger).
AC CHARGING / USB CHARGING (Data Pass Through) MOD 12-1-12
- I got tired of having a 2 port 2 Amp charger that only allowed 500ma "USB Charging" with Android & OTG. See pix:
Since breaking my power button and not knowing where to find a replacement part, I am very interested in what you are doing here.
I was considering finding a way to install an SDHC card in the same spot you've done your USB port. Do you imagine that there would be any additional complications?
I'd also like to add a power switch via the battery.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda premium
-SGA- said:
Since breaking my power button and not knowing where to find a replacement part, I am very interested in what you are doing here.
I was considering finding a way to install an SDHC card in the same spot you've done your USB port. Do you imagine that there would be any additional complications?
I'd also like to add a power switch via the battery.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In case you not aware there is an app called Button Saviour that can mimic all your hardware buttons including power.
Edit which I have just realised is of no help whatsoever if your Tablet is off . Best of luck.
-SGA- said:
Since breaking my power button and not knowing where to find a replacement part, I am very interested in what you are doing here.
I was considering finding a way to install an SDHC card in the same spot you've done your USB port. Do you imagine that there would be any additional complications?
I'd also like to add a power switch via the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My suggestion for the power switch would be to get another TP off Ebay to rob for the switch (probably the only way I will get another USB board to finish my OTG mod 100%). I saw the guts of a 16gb (no screen assy) go for $41 the other day.
As for an SDHC card, don't know. You'd probably have to connect it the same way as the OTG connector (pwr & Data). You'd still need the switch or OTG plug to get the TP to check the bus, the 5v step up to pwr it, some sort of micro-Sd "socket (so there's room for the switch) and an app like "StickMount" to mount it for use. Ultimately, it'd still be OTG but without the option to connect anything else. I'd recommend the OTG port instead.
Edit: I updated Part 4 pictures with a fillet around the port and added a link to the OTG Tips & Tricks Thread (Evo3D)
i saw the orig post you referred to in your OP..
altho i like it very much and admire your work, i will never
be qualified to attempt it..
i just wonder why the cable still has to run outside from your new usb port to the micro usb port.
is it stupid to ask why it could not permanently connect from the inside and use a switch for charging / data transfer ?
again, i will never be able to do this so you could ignore this post..
also, from your evo 3d thread, i see that someone uses a 4 port 12000mah
battery charger for data... is this correct?..
i use a solar powered 4 port hub but would like to see a battery charger modded to charger / data transfer w/ a switch..
the solar hub of mine doesnt last so long
thanx foryour reply..
amkaos said:
i just wonder why the cable still has to run outside from your new usb port to the micro usb port.
is it stupid to ask why it could not permanently connect from the inside and use a switch for charging / data transfer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look closer at the USB Board post pictures. If the OTG switch wire is connected to the board internally, then no external setup is needed. I damaged the board just enough that I couldn't finish it until I can locate another board.
Others may not be willing to attempt the board soldering and choose only a full size power port (or microUSB) that needs the external cable that provides power back to the otg device plugged into the original port.
Sent from my "Up all night, Sleep all day" EVO3D!
mpgrimm2 said:
Look closer at the USB Board post pictures. If the OTG switch wire is connected to the board internally, then no external setup is needed. I damaged the board just enough that I couldn't finish it until I can locate another board.
Others may not be willing to attempt the board soldering and choose only a full size power port that needs the external cable that provides power back to the otg device plugged into the original port.
Sent from my "Up all night, Sleep all day" EVO3D!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanx for the explanation.. i get it now..that makes so much sense
do you know what i was speaking of relating to the mod to a battery charger to switch between charge / otg ?
if possible to do , i could attempt that mod
amkaos said:
also, from your evo 3d thread, i see that someone uses a 4 port 12000mah
battery charger for data... is this correct?..
i use a solar powered 4 port hub but would like to see a battery charger modded to charger / data transfer w/ a switch..
the solar hub of mine doesnt last so long
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure what u mean by this. Post some links or quote the post and I will see if I can figure it out.
Sent from my "Up all night, sleep all day" HP CM9 Touchpad
shoot... sorry i thought i did link...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1916638
to me , this is interesting because the OP shows a modded OTG cable to connect the mini port on his solar hub to the micro port of his evo3d..
this eliminates one cable:: from hub mini port to OTG usb..
he does say how it works but i dont know if the mod would be exactly the same for our HPTP..
i have that same self powered hub and it works fine.. just not much run time.. maybe 700mah.. iirc
secondly post #2 in that thread speaks of his 12000mah charger. it seems to me like he modded it to do OTG..
this would be good because of how much run time it would have..
could be great if he put on the charger a switch for charge / data transfer if it would need a switch to use like that..
anyway your current mod is soo ambitious but i saw you modded a wall charger ..
thanx again
OK I see what he did with the charger. It uses an adapter (host) cable to go from the main hub port to the PC (mini-USB to full size USB-A).
It looks like he spliced the micro-USB OTG cable (pin 4&5 shorted) to a mini-USB cable, and made a custom OTG Host cable. He mentions he disconnected/broke the +5v wire to prevent it charging the phone due to the small battery in it. I wouldn't do that myself, but I'd also ideally want a 3000-4000mah Solar Hub to modify for OTG & keeping the phone/tablet charged.
Have a look at my OTG cable schematics in reference post 9 above, particularly cable 1.
Sent from my "Up all night, sleep all day" HP CM9 Touchpad
mpgrimm2 said:
OK I see what he did with the charger. It uses an adapter (host) cable to go from the main hub port to the PC (mini-USB to full size USB-A).
It looks like he spliced the micro-USB OTG cable (pin 4&5 shorted) to a mini-USB cable, and made a custom OTG Host cable. He mentions he disconnected/broke the +5v wire to prevent it charging the phone due to the small battery in it. I wouldn't do that myself, but I'd also ideally want a 3000-4000mah Solar Hub to modify for OTG & keeping the phone/tablet charged.
Have a look at my OTG cable schematics in reference post 9 above, particularly cable 1.
Sent from my "Up all night, sleep all day" HP CM9 Touchpad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi
so his phone supports data / charging at the same time?
but to mod an OTG cable for hptp and the mini usb port Hub, we just need to replace the usb end?
and leave pins 4 and 5 as they are?
How else would you make it instead..
I looked everywhere for a better self powered hub whether replaceable battery or not and would have liked to find something better.
thanx.. maybe I can try to make one
I'm not sure if this was discussed or brought up in any review/presentation i saw. I plugged my phone into my computer and i get the little windows pop-up this drive can perform faster if plugged into a 3.0 usb. I haven't tried it yet, since my 3.0s are behind my tower. Anyone notice or try this to confirm?
Darkestred said:
I'm not sure if this was discussed or brought up in any review/presentation i saw. I plugged my phone into my computer and i get the little windows pop-up this drive can perform faster if plugged into a 3.0 usb. I haven't tried it yet, since my 3.0s are behind my tower. Anyone notice or try this to confirm?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've heard about this as well. But I don't see how it's possible since the G2 dosen't have a USB 3.0 Micro-B port. Compared to the Galaxy Note 3, which does.
I'm pretty sure people are seeing this message because the Snapdragon 800 chipset supports it. But the G2 does not actually have the circuitry for it.
WhiteZero said:
I've heard about this as well. But I don't see how it's possible since the G2 dosen't have a USB 3.0 Micro-B port. Compared to the Galaxy Note 3, which does.
LG's own spec only says 2.0, so I'm pretty sure people are seeing this message because the Snapdragon 800 chipset supports it. But the G2 does not actually have the circuitry for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you would be correct. Tested it out. Even plugging into 3.0 it still pops up that message and it still took 25 seconds for a 430meg file.
The USB port used on the LG G2 does indeed have extra pins that could be used for USB 3.0. If you look directly at the port, there is an additional 5 pins recessed behind the standard connector. As of yet I cannot figure out what they do, but they may be a proprietary connector for a custom slim USB 3.0 connection. They could also be for some other uses, such as video out or for connecting to accessories, but I don't know what.
whosdadog said:
The USB port used on the LG G2 does indeed have extra pins that could be used for USB 3.0. If you look directly at the port, there is an additional 5 pins recessed behind the standard connector. As of yet I cannot figure out what they do, but they may be a proprietary connector for a custom slim USB 3.0 connection. They could also be for some other uses, such as video out or for connecting to accessories, but I don't know what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was wondering what all the recessed pins were there for, I assumed some future lg accessory
randyspants said:
I was wondering what all the recessed pins were there for, I assumed some future lg accessory
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's to hoping they see more use than the Galaxy Nexus' POGO pins.
I dunno, the official spec sheet shows USB 2.0.
LOOK: http://dl.xda-developers.com/attach.../9/5/Screen_Shot_2013-10-03_at_9.47.50_PM.jpg
Look at the bottom spec area.
Pics? No idea where you guys are looking.
Sent from my G2
Darkestred said:
I'm not sure if this was discussed or brought up in any review/presentation i saw. I plugged my phone into my computer and i get the little windows pop-up this drive can perform faster if plugged into a 3.0 usb. I haven't tried it yet, since my 3.0s are behind my tower. Anyone notice or try this to confirm?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the same thing popped up on my laptop 2 days ago when I plugged it in. I've been wondering about this...
Sent from my LG-D801 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
whosdadog said:
If you look directly at the port, there is an additional 5 pins recessed behind the standard connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess that it is HDMI pins
G2 is plenty fast compare to my previous Galaxy Nexus.
-LG G2
ddv2005 said:
I guess that it is HDMI pins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Slimport prob
I have tried it. First, plugged on USB 2, got error, then plugged it on USB 3 port, worked fine, no notification at all.
Haven't test if transfer speed meets USB 3 specification.
htcm7 said:
I have tried it. First, plugged on USB 2, got error, then plugged it on USB 3 port, worked fine, no notification at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What cable you have used? On stock cable I still got an error on USB3 port.
ddv2005 said:
What cable you have used? On stock cable I still got an error on USB3 port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stock cable.
The g2 has a usb 2.0 port on the phone. It won't support the faster transfer speeds or the faster charging of usb 3.0. It doesn't have the extra pins of micro usb 3.0.
Sent from my TouchPad using Tapatalk 4
ddv2005 said:
I guess that it is HDMI pins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If anything it would be SlimPort, which the phone does have, but I don't believe SlimPort uses any extra pins, just the normal micro USB 5.
Sushiglobster said:
I dunno, the official spec sheet shows USB 2.0.
LOOK: http://dl.xda-developers.com/attach.../9/5/Screen_Shot_2013-10-03_at_9.47.50_PM.jpg
Look at the bottom spec area.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The chipset fully supports USB3 standard as it has an integrated controller for it. When you plug into a computer the phone even gives a notification popup that it supports USB3 for faster transfer speeds. The port appears to be a USB2 port though, and a USB3 port would look like this:
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Those extra pins probably have to do with HDMI output through the USB port as ddv2005 said.
EniGmA1987 said:
The chipset fully supports USB3 standard as it has an integrated controller for it. When you plug into a computer the phone even gives a notification popup that it supports USB3 for faster transfer speeds. The port appears to be a USB2 port though, and a USB3 port would look like this:
Those extra pins probably have to do with HDMI output through the USB port as ddv2005 said.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. USB 3.0 microUSB port is much wider than a USB 2.0 microUSB port. There is no way the LG G2 can support the speeds or charging of USB 3.0 with the current USB 2.0 port. That warning only comes up because the G2 contains the Snapdragon S800 chip that has USB 3.0 support.
I'm not sure you'll want or need USB 3, for the following reasons:
1. You won't want it for charging, because the faster you charge a Lithium-Ion battery, the quicker it dies. We all charge it overnight, so we have at least 5-6 hours for charging, and it needs much less.
2. You won't need it for file transfer, because most of us don't was to fuss with cables, and simply use wireless transfers. Not to mention the storage on the LG is so small (16 or 32GB), that there is simply not too much to move...
ErAzOr2k said:
Does anyone found a way to get 5V directly from the device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I did. And i prepared a HOW-TO. See snapshots, and pdf in the attachments..
Now the USB have power. I do not get unmounted USB anymore. Maybe you want to try with more current (2A instead of 1 A) but it might damage your USBs.
--update--
Bear in mind that with the current setting, the USBs will have power even when the unit is off. Pendrives and so on will have no problems, as they will shutdown when unmounted by the unit. But if you leave something plugged, it will be consuming battery of your car. It has 2 sides: if you want to charge your phone, you won't need to have the car on. Just leave it there. But, if you forget something there plugged in, in may drain your battery.
If you want a non-permanent USB, you just have to change the pin from which the 12Vin is taken. Instead of taking the Bat(yellow), you must take the ACCin(red).
I hope you like it !!!
typos1 said:
Its great, apart from the fact that it helps only KGL users ! How did you work it all out, so I can try and do it for KLDs and JYs ?
---------- Post added at 05:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:31 PM ----------
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. No, it is very general and should be applicable to all units. The main thing is:
- find a source of 12V from the unit (the closest one to the USBs is the harness socket that is on the unit, i.e. the big socket with the fuse). You also need the GN to close the circuit (also on the socket)
- tap this source to the converter to 5V
- tap the 5V to the Vin of USBs. (this wiring is universal for all USBs)
I cannot say all units have the exact wiring of the harness, but it would be very weird if they do not. As a rule of thumb, if the Batt(yellow) and Ground(Black) wires of your unit are in the same positions as mine (see pic below), you can follow the HOW TO and it will work. If the position of these two wires in the socket of your unit is not as mine, then you just have to be careful in figuring out which pin it is in the board (you will see that the pins at the bottom of the board are mirrored with respect to the socket/wire diagram), but the picture I post should be enough for every one to find out their pin.
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dsa8310 said:
I inspected my simple USB hub and I noticed that there is a Schottky diode involved (type SS14) which, I guess, is protecting +5V coming from the USB "in" port from the external +5V voltage.
Unless such diode is present, internally, in the HU, for its (three, in my case) USB ports, there could be a risk involved in powering directly the internal USB ports from an external source.
But I am not an expert here. The low forward voltage of the Schottky diode makes sense, though.
So I would try to identify the internal powering path of the USB ports and insert the Schottky diode there, to be safe.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also thought about that, how to prevent eventual high tension on the Vin of the USB that may burn the plugged drives. At first I wanted to take the current from the fuse, so it is prevented although at 10A.... so in the end quite useless.
But then, I realized that since there's the converter between the 12V and the USB and it cannot output more than 5V 1A, in case of high voltage the converter will cope with it and in the worst case scenario the converter will be burnt. So, I think I am on the safe side here. If one wants to be safer, you could add a fuse between the converter and the USB Vin.
I am not an expert either, so if anyone says this is total bullsh*t, I will try to fix it :silly:
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devilsoft said:
Yesterday I managed to make DailyRoads Voyager to work. I downloaded the MTC apps uncompiled sources from this forum, and I studied the MTC Travel (Car Record) app sources, to look for clues on settings I need to set to DailyRoads Voyager, and I found them! You need to set in "Settings -> Video" the next values:
- Video Quality: choose Custom
- Video Resolution: choose 640 x 480
- Video Encoder: H.264
- Bitrate: Medium or High
- Frame Rate: High (30fps) (This is what it makes it work finally, as by default is medium selected, and CarRecord has it at 100fps)
- File format: mp4
I also change the settings in File storage, to save the videos on USB Storage (i don't know if this affects the recording), as I have a 120GB SSD.
Hope this will help anybody which has a camera attached to this HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't look at the front page for a while, but I just had a quick look and noticed that it has a link to this post (#8383). It would be good to include a little bit more information.
The above applies to no-name cams purchased with the HU. They are not high quality and can record only at 640x480 even with DailyRoads Voyager. CarRecorder can only use 640x480 with any camera. However, better quality cameras can record with higher resolutions when used with DailyRoads Voyager or another app. I tested Logitech C930e: very good on 720p, and it can even record with 1080p, but with about half the frame rate of 720p, so 720p seems to be the best option.
------------------------------------------------------------
Also the front page "3G USB Dongle not working properly" has a link to post #7614. I don't see why.
---------- Post added at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 AM ----------
dsa8310 said:
Regarding the USB protection with that Schottky diode. Let me put it this way: there are two (ideal) tension generators in parallel; they may be of sensible equal voltage, and their internal impedance is not zero, but very small anyway, and they may be internally protected or NOT.
So, I would protect with the Schottky diode at least the HU USB generator, to be safe, not sorry, in the particular case when the USB device is unplugged (or missing!).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see this solution similar to two batteries connected in parallel. The current will go from one to another, unless they are exactly the same. In which direction? When no USB device is connected, and the original source is protected with a Schottky diode, and the DC-DC regulator probably has something similar, there should be no current in either direction. Why not check it? It's more complex when a USB device is connected. From which source will it draw the power? This depends on the internal impedance of both sources, as well as the impedance of the USB device.
Regardless, it looks like it's working for those who made the modification, so it's probably OK. I'd rather use the DC-DC regulator to power a powered USB hub.
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TooBusy said:
------------------------------------------------------------
Also the front page "3G USB Dongle not working properly" has a link to post #7614. I don't see why.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It used to contain a link to aliexpress with DC-DC converter and a 3G dongle. i think Malaysk must have removed it.
In that case wound´t be better to completely cut the original USB power and use only a 2A new supply for example? the same as disconnecting the internal MIC to the BT.
dsa8310 said:
Right, opening the HU just for the USB, I don't think it's worth doing it, either.
Not to mention that my KLD unit has three USB cables, so identifying the USB circuit is more complicated, behind the HU group of connectors.
While indeed, as you pointed out, the externally powered hub (with same DC-DC adapter, if one must) seems safer, because of the (hopefully) existing Schottky diode.
That being said, if I ever have the opportunity, I will keep the hidden/internal USB powering solution (plus Schottky diode!) in mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did that because I have a cable from the back of the unit to the center console. I made a hole in the console where I installed the USB socket. It looks OEM and I like it. But in the previous working conditions, it was useless.
I do not want to have a cable running on the car from the lighter and so on. So, the idea was to fix the USB I already installed on the console. It was easy, and it works.
Probably is not the best thing for everyone, but in my case it worked
patagonia1 said:
In that case wound´t be better to completely cut the original USB power and use only a 2A new supply for example? the same as disconnecting the internal MIC to the BT.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not think about that. It seems a good idea, so you prevent any overload. I think 2A is too much. AFAIK, USB2 can work from 0.5-1A. USB3 to 1A (also Apple chargers work at 1A). i do not know what would happen with 2A if you do not have a hub which splits your current in 2 or 3 USBs.
patagonia1 said:
In that case wound´t be better to completely cut the original USB power and use only a 2A new supply for example? the same as disconnecting the internal MIC to the BT.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds better to me. And you don't need to cut anything. Connect the cable to the unit, the other end USB female connector. Test it and report back. You might get many followers.
---------- Post added at 01:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:46 AM ----------
pakidermo5000 said:
I did not think about that. It seems a good idea, so you prevent any overload. I think 2A is too much. AFAIK, USB2 can work from 0.5-1A. USB3 to 1A (also Apple chargers work at 1A). i do not know what would happen with 2A if you do not have a hub which splits your current in 2 or 3 USBs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2A would be the max. How much is used, depends on how much is needed by connected devices.
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dsa8310 said:
Nice!
Now, let me pour some more water on your solution.
I have the impression that the yellow +12V cable is a permanent/battery +12V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is something I did not consider, but of which I was aware. The USB led turns off when the HU stops. Either it is only on when the USB is mounted, or the power is always on. I will try today and see if the phone charges all the time. In that case, I would just need to sold it to the ACC. Ultimately I could use the red/ACC to open close a relay that would be connected to the yellow/BAT cable.
dsa8310 said:
While the red/ACC +12V cable might not be suitable as power supply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why ?
dsa8310 said:
Not sure. But take it under consideration.
However, the +12V (hidden) accessory socket is for sure on only when ACC/ignition is on.
So, maybe you'd want to find that feed for your HU USB power (its equivalent may be inside the HU, too?)
And, don't forget about the Schottky diode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't exactly know where to put the diode. Should it go between the USBsocket and the internal circuit that powers the USB socket ?
It will require major mods. I maybe would prefer desconnecting the USB somehow and just power it from the loom socket as TooBusy suggested.
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dsa8310 said:
I kind of know that yellow is permanent/battery because installing the new firmware works with the key in the off position.
I think red/ACC may be under-powered? (it just signals the key position?)
Maybe you could find a common internal +5V path for all your USB ports. Insert the Schottky diode (e.g. SS14) on that path (forward position).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, atm it is not a big deal to have a permanent hot USB. I do not leave anything plugged in the car so as to avoid robberies. I could examine the PCB and see where the 12V pins go, and then tap it frominner parts of the circuit. But, I am not willing to take the HU off again... I have it secured with a screw, so it means I have to remove the glovebox and everything to remove the HU. However, I doubt there will be any problem with my current installation (even without the diode) as the converter will not output more than 5V 1A. If something happens or I modify it, I will let you know.
Best and safest way to power the USB port is to make yourself a powered USB hub.
You either buy a normal Powered USB Hub that has a 5v adapter and and a DC-DC converter from 12v to 5v 3A, to power it or a regular USB Hub non powered and make it powered.
Parts needed:
-regular USB 2.0 Hub
-DC-DC 12v to 5v 3A converter
Converter: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Con...785?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item418e981131
1. Open the USB hub.
2. Locate the GND and VCC cables (+5V) .
3. Cut ONLY the original VCC (+5V ) that comes from the cable that plugs to the unit.
4. To the GND pin, solder the - cable that comes from the converter
5. To the VCC pin, solder the + cable that comes from the converter
6. Assemble back the usb hub.
7. Power the converter. You can take power directly from the main harness of the radio: + from the red cable, and - directly from from the case of the unit or from the black wire.
guys I have been researching this for a while I want to pull the trigger, can you please let me know if what I am planning make sense?
Using the power from the back of the cigaret lighter I get a 12V to feed into this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...883693?hash=item58a544fc2d:g:augAAOxy9ERSQ9HE
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professiona...005051?hash=item4d289f383b:g:YggAAOSwaNBUc~f4
from here I will feed the 5v 10amp to the USB hub:
I preffer this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Practical-P...029979?hash=item567a7a689b:g:FiwAAOSwu4BVvFWS
or maybe this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-Hig...844946?hash=item1a0947b892:g:F1MAAOSwHmhV8y71
the USB hub will plug in to the USB port of the Joying head unit,
I will use 24 to 20-AWG USB cables and
draw one to my phone (galaxy s5) by the driver door
and draw 2 more microUSB inside the cabin for passengers and other stuff inside the electronics.
maybe 10amp is over kill but I would rather have more than less.
1) Does anyone see any problem with my plan?
2) Any idea which USB hub and voltage step down I should chose?
I know USB 3 hub is not needed but it does not have any cables and I am hoping it as a bit of better internal compared to the USB 2
Has anyone found a usb hub with car plug adapter plug I can purchase extra? It's all gonna stay in my glove box and have no problem running power cord.. I just can't find one anywhere that tells me the external power plug size so I can buy a car adapter... I keep getting usb camera unplugged
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superbass311 said:
Has anyone found a usb hub with car plug adapter plug I can purchase extra? It's all gonna stay in my glove box and have no problem running power cord.. I just can't find one anywhere that tells me the external power plug size so I can buy a car adapter... I keep getting usb camera unplugged
Sent from my Ascend Mate 2 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am just going to open up the hub and solder the feed.
doctorman said:
I am just going to open up the hub and solder the feed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm on my way to buy a hub and car adapter I'll let you know the outcome
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---------- Post added at 12:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------
I need to find our if dash cam and flash drive can work on the same hub...
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