LG G2 is UNBRICKABLE NOW! [FIX REAL HARD BRICK] - G2 General

Problem Description
1.LG G2 stuck at boot logo.
2.Cannot enter download Mode
3.Stuck at factory reset screen (factory reset processing) and cannot enter RECOVERY
4.cannot enter fastboot mode
5.Phone not detecting in your computer either windows or linux!
6.Cannot enter qhsusb mode.
7.Gone to service centre and they said to replace motherboard and u hav no warranty!
This can occur when flashing wrong images to the partitions when in qhsusb mode.
IF YOU CAN ENTER QHSUSB MODE [BLACK SCREEN BOOT] THEN FOLLOW THIS TUTORIAL
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2582142​
Only solution for you guys is the following..
[THIS SOLUTION IS EASY BUT NEEDS YOU TO MESS WITH THE MOTHERBOARD.BUT SOLUTION DOESNOT REQUIRE HARDWARE SERVICE SKILLS.THE ONLY OTHER SOLUTION FOR YOU GUYS IS TO CHANGE THE MOTHERBOARD.SO THIS WIL BE YOUR ONLY CHOICE.]
Tools Required
1.Screw driver
2.Pry tool
3.Insulated small wire piece (sharped one edge).
Steps to FIX
1. Remove the Backcover of your phone.
2. Remove the backplastic on upper part of phone using screw driver.
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3. Remove Battery Connector.
[THIS VIDEO IS A GOOD TUTORIAL TO DO ALL THIS]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O12UJMOCx1w
4.Remove all connectors except camera connector.
5. Remove Buttons plate,(buttons plate is sticked to the surface.)
6.Reattach connectors except battery connector.
7. Connect phone to computer using usb cable
8. Short the capacitors c5000 and c5004 of the IC U5001 using wire end(Keep on trying till phone light comes and pc detects phone.)
find the capacitors using this image.(short both siverdots and capacitor terminals above it)
Like this,
9. After going to black screen (qhsusb mode) attach battery connector and remove usb cable..
10. Then follow this thread to flash only laf.img,aboot.img and boot.img of your stock ROM.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2582142
11. After successful flash of images, remove battery connector and other connectors and reattach buttonsplate.
12 After attaching buttons plate,check your device going into download mode, and use flash tool to flash stock rom.
THEN PHONE SHOULD BOOT NORMALLY...ATTACH BACK PLASTIC AND PHONE BACK COVER..BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH ANY CONTACTS..
THATS ALL,NOW YOU HAVE YOUR DEVICE COME BACK ALIVE...
IF I SAVED YOUR DEVICE, DONT FORGET TO HIT THANKS AND DONATE ME IF YOU CAN!..
Thanks
Partager.info for his linux solution.
brappa for sharing info.
Confirmed Working on
D800 (AT&T)
D801 (Tmobile)
D802 (International)
D803
DONATIONS
1. S.Constantinou
2. haizaar
3. hidiquis

Holy sh*t is this magic? Haha

reas0n said:
Holy sh*t is this magic? Haha
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea this magic is real!

george7565 said:
Yea this magic is real!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2694530
help here!!!!!!!!

Good tutorial, hopefully it will.benefit lot of users to save on.huge.motherboard cost.
Sent from my LG-D802 using xda premium

Very nice tutorial, well done. I want to ask you, can you add a video about step 8?

Please make a video on Step 8.
I'm confused too.
Thanks in advance and Awesome guide. :good: :good:

forumber2 said:
Very nice tutorial, well done. I want to ask you, can you add a video about step 8?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ya,I know a video will make it more clear.But iam too busy right now this month.(Full of exams)..

dhruvdutt said:
Please make a video on Step 8.
I'm confused too.
Thanks in advance and Awesome guide. :good: :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look at step 8 2nd picture .you can see IC no 6 .See the red marked terminals.That is two silver dots and a capacitor above two dots.
Short these silver dots and capacitor terminals..If you short it correctly phone will be changed to qhsusb mode.

I included your post on my fb page . Really nice find.

Stuck at step 8 with the LS980. I am hoping it works with this board too.
The Question I have is we have to short 2 sets , 1 set is the 2 silver dots and the other set is the capacitor above the 2 silver dots. Does this have to be done simultaneously ?

kryptonite said:
Stuck at step 8 with the LS980. I am hoping it works with this board too.
The Question I have is we have to short 2 sets , 1 set is the 2 silver dots and the other set is the capacitor above the 2 silver dots. Does this have to be done simultaneously ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine only worked when i short them simultanously.This is the difficult task.

Really magical!!!
One question: after the process my d802 works fine except the power button, anyone else?. I think o broke the buttons flex ???

polopaz said:
Really magical!!!
One question: after the process my d802 works fine except the power button, anyone else?. I think o broke the buttons flex ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You must be carefull with the connectors.Use the pry tools only to safetly remove connectors and please reconnect the buttons connector from motherboard and check once more?
Becoz i deteched them more than a 100 times have not got a single damage.Use specified tools only.

Been trying for a few hours no luck with the LS980 yet.
---------- Post added at 09:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 AM ----------
Also any reason why the photos were taken down from the fist post ?

george7565 said:
You must be carefull with the connectors.Use the primping tools only to safetly remove connectors and please reconnect the buttons connector from motherboard and check once more?
Becoz i deteched them more than a 100 times have not got a single damage.Use specified tools only.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Giving up on LS980. If anyone has success with LS980 please let me know or post in this thread!

kryptonite said:
Giving up on LS980. If anyone has success with LS980 please let me know or post in this thread!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you are shorting it the wrong way..try replugging the usb cable. hold the insulation of the wire without touching copper and short it.

george7565 said:
I think you are shorting it the wrong way..try replugging the usb cable. hold the insulation of the wire without touching copper and short it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did tried that multiple times , I am not holding the copper but holding insulation and shorting the pins.
I short the 2 silver nodes and the 2 cap terminals above the silver nodes.
---------- Post added at 04:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:32 PM ----------
I also have a feeling there may be some dependency of the bootloader still needing to be alive in the EMMC partition for this fix to work. In my case my bootloader was erased which caused the brick.

kryptonite said:
I did tried that multiple times , I am not holding the copper but holding insulation and shorting the pins.
I short the 2 silver nodes and the 2 cap terminals above the silver nodes.
---------- Post added at 04:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:32 PM ----------
I also have a feeling there may be some dependency of the bootloader still needing to be alive in the EMMC partition for this fix to work. In my case my bootloader was erased which caused the brick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Disabling EMMC is what we do to enter qhsusb mode.There is no dependency.. In your case can u pls wait..I can only check this on this sunday.Im very busy now..

Sure I will wait. I also soldered 0 ohm resistor on the 2 silver nodes and removed the capacitor and added a 0 ohm resistor there as well, which effectively shorts it. But it still keeps coming up as QDLoader mode 9008 and no lights turn on.
I will now wait for your next update on Sunday.

Related

Trackball and Safe mode

I recently saw a guide here how to open your eris and transplant the track ball.
I have no reason to transplant the trackball, but I did open it to attempt to clean it.
I have throughly cleaned the trackball with rubbing acohol three times now and I still can not scroll downward.
Also now my phone only boots into safe mode.
What is wrong with my phone?
Update:
I have now discovered why it boots into safe mode.
Turn out, now the trackball is being determined as pressed, so when i booted into booted into recovery to see what happens, it reflashed pb0000 or whatever it is called.
And down scroll still doesn't work.
Update 2:
I refit the trackball another time and now it now longer boots into safe mode.
Does anyone know why I can't scroll down? I can not nandroid restore if I can't scroll down.
Please help.
some dust or dirt probably got inside the trackball and is blocking the sensor from sensing the trackball movement. since you already opened it up, i would suggest doing that again, in a dusk free environment, then pull the trackball out, spray some compress air on it, then put it back together.
ECLIPS3 said:
some dust or dirt probably got inside the trackball and is blocking the sensor from sensing the trackball movement. since you already opened it up, i would suggest doing that again, in a dusk free environment, then pull the trackball out, spray some compress air on it, then put it back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Year I cleaned out all the dust already with an air compressor.
I think it is actually some grease because I remember it first stopped working on easter when my finger were a little bit greasy from ham. So I planning on soaking the ball, with its metal casing, in rubbing alcohol.
I first thought that the warranty became void when I rooted, but after research, I didn't really void it until I broke the seal. If I had known this before hand I prolly wouldn't have opened it.
Thx for the help anyway.
I will post more results eventually.
Cleaned it even more, still doesn't work.
Well I discover that I can use Amon's recovery with adb, so now I am just not gonna worry about the trackball.
it's a common problem with eris' it seems. I had it, and I can remember t least 2 others with the problem.
I used it as a warranty to replace my 2.1 leak so i could root my phone instead, if you still have that little void sticker intact, i suggest you replace your phone. replacing the trackball wont do anything, as the enclosure that you get doesn't include the lenses, just the ball and the carriage.
just to double check:
the manufacturers warranty is for hardware issues up to a year after purchase right?
eris
same issue happened to me with my old eris the trackball wouldnt move down and i got a replacement i just went to verizon and told them and the guy lookedc at it , i was on 2.1 rooted he didnt care he just looked to see it didnt work he said ok and doubnle checked my address and one came in the mail 2 days later and i had to ship mny old one back... now a month ish later my new droid is tharting the same issue again only thing i can think of why its doin this is my jeans are a little tight and maybe the trackball is rubbing against it and now its causing the crackball to be pressed against the sensor and it is defecting it, onlything i can think of... EDIT( and yes the warrenty is 1 year for hardware so just bring it and show him it wont go down and hel say ok and send you one no questions asked, mine was opened and sticker was removed he didnt care)
It seems to stop once n awhile but it is a known issue. And if it starts again im gona open it and do some testing but for now it seems to working ok, my old droid stopped going down completely
-------------------------------------
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After some research and opening my eris a couple of times. I think I have the solution.
I noticed that sometime when I plug the charger into my eris, the cursor moves down.
Before that I released that the track ball work by 4 spinning magnets and 4 magnetometers.
The carriage of the trackball looks something like this:
▊ ▔ ▆
▏O ▕
▆ _ ▊ < Left magnet
^ Down magnet is there
Directly below the down magnet is the usb female slot.
With all my research people have told me that there left and down have stopped working in the past.
Coincidentally, the down and left magnets are very close to the metal usb connector. I am guessing that this is the issue.
Are you saying the sensors are getting magnetised?
-------------------------------------
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Update: when i plug in my usb the down trackball is more sensitive and about normal, idk if its luck or
Proof of concept
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Palmbxr said:
Are you saying the sensors are getting magnetised?
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The trackballs is consists of a casing with four magnets.
Below is a blackberry track ball which is equivalent to the eris track ball.
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You can see the black cylindrical magnets in the corners.
Palmbxr said:
Update: when i plug in my usb the down trackball is more sensitive and about normal, idk if its luck or
Proof of concept
-------------------------------------
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Above is the chip located above the trackball, also located on the same chip is the metal usb female.
So as you can see the lower magnet come in close contact with it.
Now, I am not 100% sure that this is the cause, but it is a good possibility.
Just call Verizon, make sure to get a good rep, tell him/her that your trackball is messing up. Let them know that you tried to fix it, just don't tell them you opened it, unless they ask. It's not lying or fraud, they don't tell you the whole truth anyways (hidden fees). lol They should replace it without a problem, the only thing is you might get a Droid Eris with 2.1 pre-installed.
-------------------------------------
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Well no 1 wants to go through reflashing all there ****, were looking for a fix so we can fix it right here
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Excuse me then, it should be a simple fix if nothing shorted out. I returned my Eris because it shorter out, I cleaned everything, and replaced the whole track ball with my other Eris and still had the same problem. Now I know not to use my Eris while plugged in via usb, there is too much space left over for the usb plug to loosen. I hope this thread will make it easier to fix the flaw in design. So it won't be a problem any more. Thank you for taking the time to read.
-------------------------------------
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Didnt mean for that to sound mean sorry dude
-------------------------------------
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fKngFtd said:
Excuse me then, it should be a simple fix if nothing shorted out. I returned my Eris because it shorter out, I cleaned everything, and replaced the whole track ball with my other Eris and still had the same problem. Now I know not to use my Eris while plugged in via usb, there is too much space left over for the usb plug to loosen. I hope this thread will make it easier to fix the flaw in design. So it won't be a problem any more. Thank you for taking the time to read.
-------------------------------------
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would actually prefer a work around IMO. I never use the trackball unless I need to flash a rom.
Track balls are way old technology from back before laser mouses, so why have one on a phone.
A couple of "work arounds" I thought about were:
1. Change the hotkeys in the recovery and then recompile and flash
2. Use the Recovery from your phone in an ADB like fashion. (This is currentyly supported but has many limitations. For example you can't flash ROM ZIP, but you can nandroid."
3. Control the recovery via Android Screen cast or something similar
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=557717
4. Solder in a trackpad and remove the trackball. (Pretty Far fetched IMO.)
Mine started screwing up again :/
-------------------------------------
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[Q] Yellow Trinagle & Battrey Thermometer (Solution inside p.2)

Hi Yall
having my sammy's GT-I9100 couple of months and now having a odd problem
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my phone havnt been in any wet area or near by water source...
the phone acting crazy...what can i do?
10.02.2012
found a solution
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=22362533&postcount=18
ok i was able to make it work again but with the same problem as before
the battery is not giving the correct readings and i cannot charge it normally.
i was cleaning the USB Connector but it was not enouge..
the battery & the MTP icons are still ON and if i restart the phone
the problem remains the same (Yellow Tri) untill i connect the charger and the phone is up again..
one more thing is that the phone appears to be slow then usuel..
:| i have no luck with cell's am i? :\
That prob. Means your phone is too hot or battery is too hot. Phones shut down if they get too hot to protect themselves and it will do the same if the battery gets to hot. Since your phone is running slower I would say its your phone overheating. Try it with another battery and see if it works. And also remember water damage isn't just water it can also be caused by sweat, steam, and humidity. I know it sounds dumb but even taking the phone in the bathroom to listen to music while you shower will cause it too. Your mirror gets steamed up and steam is moisture. If another battery doesn't fix try to get it warranty replaced.
Sent from my MB855 using XDA App
My phone is ice cold its not overheatting the battery and the phone
Are cold.
Maybe it's moisture.. I don't know... Too bad that it's difficult to
Change on my own this USB connector...
GUARDIANBD said:
My phone is ice cold its not overheatting the battery and the phone
Are cold.
Maybe it's moisture.. I don't know... Too bad that it's difficult to
Change on my own this USB connector...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The outside of your phone maybe cold but the inside can be hot. Or it could be the temperature gauge inside the phone malfunctioning.
Sent from my MB855 using XDA App
Well i'v test it via the Service menu. At antenna temp and it eas 28c..
Not that hot
same problem here
Hi,
I had the same problem, basically my case was that I had flashed a Frankenstein firmware and since then the problem had started for me. Once I moved back to the stock firmware, the issue is completely resolved.
Having said that, it did not occur to me immediately after I moved to a Frankenstein firmware, but happened after some time.
So if possible, try to move to stock firmware and see if the problem persists.
Thanks,
Vishal
I have also that problem with some custom roms, phone is old like 5 month, he was go randomly to crazy mode yellow battery , MTP won’t shut down and you can’t turn OFF phone. My friend have SGS2 and we have try to replace his battery but that didn’t help, in the end I have flash CM9 and now for one weak I don’t have that problem.
I think best advice is to take phone to service.
br
The problem gone by its own...i wonder how
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
my battery did the same thing, randomly works now tho?
But all i can say is, once the battery was 100% charged, I unplugged it then plugged it back in, It then took more charge when i did. Overcharged?
GUARDIANBD said:
The problem gone by its own...i wonder how
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was probably moisture shorting usb or lower motherboard usb connects to. This phone has that issue it seems and really miss slider cover from sgs1.
Solutions?
Cleaning usb port for obstructions.
Send to service.
Replace board by yourself. I did it just few days ago as I'm not under warranty. Take all precautions that you know what you're doing. Otherwise see above or below.
Put in your girls pantyhose and then in rice container to draw out moisture or original box sealed with some of those silica packets electronics come packaged with.
And yes sometimes it clears by itself as the moisture evaporates and if you're lucky that the power controller chip was not damaged permanently.
Sent from my GT-I9100
Same problem here .. If I turn off the phone is hard to start again. It does not recognize USB. Charged battery alert, not turned off. I thought it was a software problem and I returned to stock without root, but the problem remains. I start to believe it's a hardware problem (perhaps the USB port)
I'm thinking for a service, but I can not reset the flash counter, I have JIG and I'm not good with soldering .. I think in this occasion will have to pay ..
ifentanez said:
Same problem here .. If I turn off the phone is hard to start again. It does not recognize USB. Charged battery alert, not turned off. I thought it was a software problem and I returned to stock without root, but the problem remains. I start to believe it's a hardware problem (perhaps the USB port)
I'm thinking for a service, but I can not reset the flash counter, I have JIG and I'm not good with soldering .. I think in this occasion will have to pay ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You use a SD card, don't you?
Remove it.
Envoyé depuis mon GT-I9100 avec Tapatalk
Paradoxxx said:
You use a SD card, don't you?
Remove it.
Envoyé depuis mon GT-I9100 avec Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean, external sd? No, I don't
ifentanez said:
You mean, external sd? No, I don't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hum. Did you tried with another battery?
Envoyé depuis mon GT-I9100 avec Tapatalk
Paradoxxx said:
Hum. Did you tried with another battery?
Envoyé depuis mon GT-I9100 avec Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Confirmed, moisture in the USB port, had a green color in the connection
I think i'v found an temporary but long run solution
it work'd for me just fine!
1.Take a flat screwdriver and coat it with a thin layer of cotton wool
2. Insert the screwdriver at the bottom of the USB connection just below the "tooth" and bend the "tooth" gently upwards.
3. Use the USB cable to check that tooth bending too much and to check that the computer recognizes the connection.
that's it!

[Q] i9300 hardware repair help, please

I've just been given two non functional i9300's for free, to see if i can repair them.
both have cracked screens, one appears to have water damage.
i've tested with spare batteries, and neither powers on, nor do they show up in windows when connected by USB.
whats the bare minimum we need for these to power on and be detected by windows, so i can determine if the logic boards in these even work?
Mussels84 said:
I've just been given two non functional i9300's for free, to see if i can repair them.
both have cracked screens, one appears to have water damage.
i've tested with spare batteries, and neither powers on, nor do they show up in windows when connected by USB.
whats the bare minimum we need for these to power on and be detected by windows, so i can determine if the logic boards in these even work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cracked screen and water damage will not cause the phone to not boot up. Unless the water damage is severe, it will still boot up. It appears to me tat it is either sds or motherboard.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
JellyYogurt said:
Cracked screen and water damage will not cause the phone to not boot up. Unless the water damage is severe, it will still boot up. It appears to me tat it is either sds or motherboard.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the previous owner has disassembled them, and they had no batteries. using one from an i9305 has had no luck so far, basically just looking for advice and suggestions as where i should proceed.
if it was a PC i'd be done in seconds but fixing a phone i didnt pull apart in the first place is challenging.
Mussels84 said:
the previous owner has disassembled them, and they had no batteries. using one from an i9305 has had no luck so far, basically just looking for advice and suggestions as where i should proceed.
if it was a PC i'd be done in seconds but fixing a phone i didnt pull apart in the first place is challenging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If we do not know why the phone is not booting up, we cannot tell u which part to change.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
JellyYogurt said:
If we do not know why the phone is not booting up, we cannot tell u which part to change.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah thats the same situation i'm in.
at the very least, one of the boards is showing 5W of power consumption when connected to a wall charger (which is connected to a power meter).
since the battery is charging, that implies something is working - but i'm getting nothing on the screen and not hearing sounds out of the speaker.
Mussels84 said:
yeah thats the same situation i'm in.
at the very least, one of the boards is showing 5W of power consumption when connected to a wall charger (which is connected to a power meter).
since the battery is charging, that implies something is working - but i'm getting nothing on the screen and not hearing sounds out of the speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is tat the water dmged one or?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
JellyYogurt said:
Is tat the water dmged one or?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i cant tell which board came from which shell unfortunately, however this board/battery is charging in the water damaged shell, but showing 0W in the 'clean' shell.
backwards to what i'd expect. maybe this ones just a dead screen, and the other has some more serious, but better hidden damage.
edit: the 'water damaged' shell + board had a red charging LED show up, that went away when i hit the power button. didnt power on after that/the touchscreen buttons dont light up when touched.
edit 2: with my good battery the LED went blue and the backlit buttons lit up. i think this hardware combo works, and i just need a new LCD - will trst it out with MHL and see if that works...
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looks like this combo just needs a digitiser + LCD, despite getting an image on screen i cant control it in any way.
thanks for the help jelly, you at least helped me think this one through and come up with viable testing methods.
Mussels84 said:
looks like this combo just needs a digitiser + LCD, despite getting an image on screen i cant control it in any way.
thanks for the help jelly, you at least helped me think this one through and come up with viable testing methods.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Welcome
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
so using that test above (wall meter then MHL) i've confirmed that one board works, one doesnt. in either frame one board lights up the LED and the other doesnt draw any power or give any sign of life (assuming this is the water damaged one)
i've got one of everything (front + back camera module, speaker etc) literally all im missing is a LCD screen.
to ebay i go, this has been a good day
this just got hilariously fun.
i ended up temporarily using the LCD + digitiser from my i9305 (it works but hte back panel cant be closed) to sync up a bluetooth mouse to the phone.
now i can use it as a bluetooth controlled HTPC

[Q] P9000 bricked?

Hi Guys,
I managed to brick my P9000 whilst trying to root it.
It doesn't power up at all and even the battery doesn't show when charging (it was at 95% before I broke it).
None of the SP Flash tool versions detect it but it does show up as a MediaTek DA USB VCOM in device manager so it can't be that bad..... can it?
Please help, I've only had the thing for 2 days
vortecks said:
Hi Guys,
I managed to brick my P9000 whilst trying to root it.
It doesn't power up at all and even the battery doesn't show when charging (it was at 95% before I broke it).
None of the SP Flash tool versions detect it but it does show up as a MediaTek DA USB VCOM in device manager so it can't be that bad..... can it?
Please help, I've only had the thing for 2 days
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have the proper SP Drivers installed?
Yes, it was working ok when I first tried it. I managed to flash a custom ROM but then decided to go back to original and root it....that's when the problem happened
Ok..... I fixed it!
If anyone has the same problem, you have to remove the back cover, take out 4 screws (to gain access to the battery connector), disconnect the battery and plug it back in.
I warn you, it's not easy!
vortecks said:
Ok..... I fixed it!
If anyone has the same problem, you have to remove the back cover, take out 4 screws (to gain access to the battery connector), disconnect the battery and plug it back in.
I warn you, it's not easy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Too late but....
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=66850690
Greetings
Vsrookie
Sent from my P9000 using XDA-Developers mobile app
vsrookie said:
Too late but....
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=66850690
Greetings
Vsrookie
Sent from my P9000 using XDA-Developers mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that, I could have done with it a couple of days ago
Taking a brand new phone apart when there's zero instruction on how to do it, is rather nerving!
vortecks said:
Thanks for that, I could have done with it a couple of days ago
Taking a brand new phone apart when there's zero instruction on how to do it, is rather nerving!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Having just softbricked my P9000 - phone now completely unresponsive after a successful flash using SP Tools using a stock image - I'd appreciate a litle help
How do you start the process of removing the back cover? I can't see anywhere to start prying it up...
nephster said:
Having just softbricked my P9000 - phone now completely unresponsive after a successful flash using SP Tools using a stock image - I'd appreciate a litle help
How do you start the process of removing the back cover? I can't see anywhere to start prying it up...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a scalpel and slowly started at one corner (obviously between the case and the back cover).
It does take quite a while and you have to be careful where the power/volume buttons are - the ribbon has some adhesive on it which sticks to the back cover.
What I suggest is work your way around by levering the back off with a scalpel (the point of the blade) until you can see inside but be careful, don't run anything under the cover to make things quicker, you stand a chance of damaging the ribbon cables. When it's free, gently lift the case from the opposite side to the power button and you'll be able to slide something in, to ease the ribbon cable from the case. I can only go by my own experience but yours might not have the adhesive between the ribbon cables and the case.
After the cover is off, it's just a case of removing a few screws and a few bits of plastic and popping the battery connector off and back on again.
All the best with it
Tony
vortecks said:
All the best with it
Tony
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cheers Tony. Fingers crossed! Guess I don't have much to lose...
nephster said:
Guess I don't have much to lose...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the same thing I said
You may find this video useful although I couldn't get it apart with a plectrum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-KxuFfv7rk
vortecks said:
That's the same thing I said
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a mill Tony, and Vsrookie for the tips in your post.
I've aged ten years. Unplugging the battery alone didn't sort my problem, but I was able to get back to a booting, working phone (in bits!) after a lot of back and forth with SP Tools, META mode and installing drivers at the correct times.
Putting the bloody thing back together was something else, though. Back cover wouldn't fit back on properly at the top (turned out, one bit of the fingerprint assembly's lugs on the left was over rather than under the rim of the phone, keeping the cover from snapping down) . Then, while fiddling with this, the ****ing power button fell out, which led to having to figure out how it worked in order to attempt to put it back in.
Long story short, all sorted out, completely stock and wiped, and can now be returned to Amazon - unfortunately I'm frequently getting the dreaded sim tray errors with the SD and SIM cards and NFC won't work with my transit company's app so won't be keeping it... ho hum.
Either way, I'm glad you got it sorted mate. They're certainly not the easiest phone to take apart (and successfully put back together)
sorry to jump a dead thread but im new here and dont know how to make a new one, i have a elephone p9000 and i believe ive soft bricked it, i have access to the battery, my computer doesn't detect it under driver manager (it detects an unknown device(i have the correct drivers installed)) the problem occurred when sp flashtools crashed halfway through flashing a new ROM (now the phone wont boot and is stuck on the white elephone logo and i cant get into recovery) really stuck any help is greatly appriciated
Have you tried a stock ROM?
PS I was born in Boney Hay Road
vortecks said:
Have you tried a stock ROM?
PS I was born in Boney Hay Road
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
awesome about being from burntwood man, yeah i was trying to flash a stock rom when sp flashtools crashed
Sorry mate, I'm not really the person to answer. I was lucky really and I only needed to unplug the battery. I know it'll only be a soft-brick, it's apparently impossible to hard-brick them.
Hopefully, someone will be along with the answer
i managed to disconnect battery and connect my p9000 to my pc, but when flash with sp flash tool , i keep getting brom error : status_ext_ram_exception. can somebody explain to me what should i do, tq
after disconnect battery P9000 doesn´t work
Hello Guys,
I need your help.
I was trying to come back and old ROM of my new ELE P9000 for rooting it. I used Flash Tool (FT) and everything went fine; the firm was formatted and reinstalled and FT showed the "okay" message. After that, I tried to switch on the mobile but it does not work, even I can not open the Recovery System. FT does not recognize the Phone and I can not reinstall a firm; I am afraid it died.
I read this useful forum (thank you for sharing) and I switched off the battery as indicated (I think) but after reconnect the yellow cable of the battery and reinstall the screws and fix everything two times, the phone does not switch on, recovery system does not work and FT does not recognize the mobile and I can not reinstall software. Level battery shall be almost 50%.
I would like to attach pics about the surgery I did and I would like to know if it was done right or not, but I do not how to insert it.
Please, advises/instructios for realive the phone.
Thank you in advance
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ELEP9000 said:
I would like to attach pics about the surgery I did and I would like to know if it was done right or not, but I do not how to insert it.
Please, advises/instructios for realive the phone.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You first need to upload your pictures to a filehost like ZimageZ and they give you code to insert here in the forum.
Trying to figure out the META mode for Elephone P9000
nephster said:
Thanks a mill Tony, and Vsrookie for the tips in your post.
I've aged ten years. Unplugging the battery alone didn't sort my problem, but I was able to get back to a booting, working phone (in bits!) after a lot of back and forth with SP Tools, META mode and installing drivers at the correct times.
Putting the bloody thing back together was something else, though. Back cover wouldn't fit back on properly at the top (turned out, one bit of the fingerprint assembly's lugs on the left was over rather than under the rim of the phone, keeping the cover from snapping down) . Then, while fiddling with this, the ****ing power button fell out, which led to having to figure out how it worked in order to attempt to put it back in.
Long story short, all sorted out, completely stock and wiped, and can now be returned to Amazon - unfortunately I'm frequently getting the dreaded sim tray errors with the SD and SIM cards and NFC won't work with my transit company's app so won't be keeping it... ho hum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sharing the fate here but can you tell me steps how did you get into the META mode (what buttons did you kept pressed while inserting the phone to computer, did you have your battery on etc. Thanks.

Where are the test points located on the motherboard?

Hi, I recently flashed an incorrect preloader and the device is now bricked and since this is an MTK device, i can restore it by knowing where the test points are located, please if anyone knows what the test point is, please post an image, thank you in advanced...
You can't use this method for MTK devices.
You just connect your device to your PC in download mode. Usually the device would be already in download mode, or if it isn't just press (VOL UP + VOL DOWN + POWER) simultaneously and it should boot to download mode.
To unbrick your device you'll need:
Stock ROM of your device.
SP Flash Tool.
Your device specific Scatter File (Can be included in the ROM, but if it isn't you'll have to search for it. If you can't find it then you're out of luck)
MTK driver (VCOM)
If you got all of the above. Then load the scatter file into SP flash tool and flash it in download mode. Then flash your stock ROM.
Now idk where you can find your device scatter file, maybe someone with the same device can make one for you here on the forums.
Goodluck.
XDHx86 said:
You can't use this method for MTK devices.
You just connect your device to your PC in download mode. Usually the device would be already in download mode, or if it isn't just press (VOL UP + VOL DOWN + POWER) simultaneously and it should boot to download mode.
To unbrick your device you'll need:
Stock ROM of your device.
SP Flash Tool.
Your device specific Scatter File (Can be included in the ROM, but if it isn't you'll have to search for it. If you can't find it then you're out of luck)
MTK driver (VCOM)
If you got all of the above. Then load the scatter file into SP flash tool and flash it in download mode. Then flash your stock ROM.
Now idk where you can find your device scatter file, maybe someone with the same device can make one for you here on the forums.
Goodluck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already tried this, but, since my preloader is corrupted, it doesn't recognise my device...
Hausemaster said:
I have already tried this, but, since my preloader is corrupted, it doesn't recognise my device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aah, you have a dead preloader. Nah you can kiss you phone goodbye.
Maybe there's a way to get to meta mode on your device that's specific to your chip, but if you can't then there no hope for you.
You can follow this thread for similar issue, but note that this is for MT65xxx chips, not MT67xxx. And yes those 2 numbers make a big difference.
XDHx86 said:
Aah, you have a dead preloader. Nah you can kiss you phone goodbye.
Maybe there's a way to get to meta mode on your device that's specific to your chip, but if you can't then there no hope for you.
You can follow this thread for similar issue, but note that this is for MT65xxx chips, not MT67xxx. And yes those 2 numbers make a big difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have a multi meter and I don't want to kill it by shorting a pin with +5V to ground and fry something, so, after getting a meter, I'll give it a go...
Also, does the meta mode trigger exist mostly on the golden contact points in this phone, or is it required to take the shielding off the board and short a resistor near the emmc chip? Please try to find where its exact location is if possible... My device has the MT6737M processor BTW
I'm posting the images of the motherboard, both sides, please have a look at them, it might give you a better chance at locating the right one...
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Hausemaster said:
I'm posting the images of the motherboard, both sides, please have a look at them, it might give you a better chance at locating the right one...
View attachment 5350473View attachment 5350475
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a lot of pins here, I honestly have no idea. In most phones it's one of the pins below the sim card reader, however I see 4 possible pins beside the chip to the left too.
I don't think connecting it one by one is gonna do any issue to your motherboard, and I don't think you have any options either. Unless you find someone who knows his sht. I'd try the ones beside the chip to the left first.
But don't be in a hurry, I once burned a phone because of that. Do your research first so you don't feel regret if worse happens.
As you can see in this post just connect it one by one and pray to god. You have to keep it connected for about 10 sec to test if it's detected, and try to keep the cable as stable as possible tape it if you have to. If the flash fails this time this is junk.
If it works then post the results here.
XDHx86 said:
There are a lot of pins here, I honestly have no idea. In most phones it's one of the pins below the sim card reader, however I see 4 possible pins beside the chip to the left too.
I don't think connecting it one by one is gonna do any issue to your motherboard, and I don't think you have any options either. Unless you find someone who knows his sht. I'd try the ones beside the chip to the left first.
But don't be in a hurry, I once burned a phone because of that. Do your research first so you don't feel regret if worse happens.
As you can see in this post just connect it one by one and pray to god. You have to keep it connected for about 10 sec to test if it's detected, and try to keep the cable as stable as possible tape it if you have to. If the flash fails this time this is junk.
If it works then post the results here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, thanks for this valuable information, I will try it as soon as I get a multimeter, as I can't trust myself, and to prevent any frying as you said...
Edit: Just curios, is it required for it to be kept connected for 10 seconds for it to get detected, for example, if I short the pin for a second or two, will it not show up even if it's the correct point, right?
I tried all the small contact points, but, it didn't connect to the PC, I found out that the larger contact points have a voltage in them, so, I tested every small point and thankfully they were no shorts, the sad news is that it didn't show up in the PC, I kept it connected for 10 seconds on each point and my ground was the SIM slot shield (i think it's correct, because there were no markings on the board giving indication to a ground point), and one more thing I notices is that, when I connect the phone with the battery in to a charger or PC, it starts to get warm...(the board)
Also, do you know anyone who knows how to find this point, (if so, ask them about this..) I'm starting to think that the test point is under the board shielding, and if it is actually under it, it isn't a good idea for me to short random points without confirmation...
Hausemaster said:
I tried all the small contact points, but, it didn't connect to the PC, I found out that the larger contact points have a voltage in them, so, I tested every small point and thankfully they were no shorts, the sad news is that it didn't show up in the PC, I kept it connected for 10 seconds on each point and my ground was the SIM slot shield (i think it's correct, because there were no markings on the board giving indication to a ground point), and one more thing I notices is that, when I connect the phone with the battery in to a charger or PC, it starts to get warm...(the board)
Also, do you know anyone who knows how to find this point, (if so, ask them about this..) I'm starting to think that the test point is under the board shielding, and if it is actually under it, it isn't a good idea for me to short random points without confirmation...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The meta mode isn't available in all boards, it's found only in specific types of boards and the manufacturers use it to download their firmware.
If you can't find it, then it's probably not existent in this motherboard.
Try asking around on the forums, maybe someone else can help, make a new thread, search for more specific details about the MT67xxx or your device board, ask around in phone shops. You'll figure it out.
Sorry for not being of much help.
XDHx86 said:
The meta mode isn't available in all boards, it's found only in specific types of boards and the manufacturers use it to download their firmware.
If you can't find it, then it's probably not existent in this motherboard.
Try asking around on the forums, maybe someone else can help, make a new thread, search for more specific details about the MT67xxx or your device board, ask around in phone shops. You'll figure it out.
Sorry for not being of much help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I'll give up on it, since, the voltage regulation circuit (in the board) gets stupidly hot if the battery is connected, and I now I remember the exact reason why it died, I flashed a GSI image from fastboot and left it there in fastboot and the screen was on probably the entire night, and in morning when it was dead I thought it was so flash tools fault, but, it wasn't, so, yeah, that's the end of to device for me, I guess
Hausemaster said:
YoI think I'll give up on it, since, the voltage regulation circuit (in the board) gets stupidly hot if the battery is connected, and I now I remember the exact reason why it died, I flashed a GSI image from fastboot and left it there in fastboot and the screen was on probably the entire night, and in morning when it was dead I thought it was so flash tools fault, but, it wasn't, so, yeah, that's the end of to device for me, I guess
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should disconnect the battery while doing this, if you change your mind in the future.
XDHx86 said:
You should disconnect the battery while doing this, if you change your mind in the future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, but I think my board doesn't have meta mode, because even the imei fix tools weren't able to get this in meta mode when it was alive, and also, I didn't search for test points when the battery was in the device...
Hausemaster said:
Okay, but I think my board doesn't have meta mode, because even the imei fix tools weren't able to get this in meta mode when it was alive, and also, I didn't search for test points when the battery was in the device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try sending it to Nokia service center, if they say they can fix it, then it means there is still hope at least.
XDHx86 said:
Try sending it to Nokia service center, if they say they can fix it, then it means there is still hope at least.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay,..
Just curios, do MTK phones with a dead preloader become extremely hot if the battery is tried to charge on it?
Should I connect the points with 0v to ground? I got a meter and took the voltage vales, I found a ground point, a point with the fluctuating voltage of 0.1 and o volts, then a point with 0.17 volts and another one with 5V, which points should I connect to ground to not kill the board?
Hausemaster said:
Should I connect the points with 0v to ground? I got a meter and took the voltage vales, I found a ground point, a point with the fluctuating voltage of 0.1 and o volts, then a point with 0.17 volts and another one with 5V, which points should I connect to ground to not kill the board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already stated hardware stuff isn't my field of expertise, so I recommend making a new thread with the new information.
There are many points, with some and no voltage, which ones give the best chance of not killing the board, can I connect any points with 0.1v? Or do I only connect points with either 0v or that switch from 0 to 0.011v?
XDHx86 said:
I already stated hardware stuff isn't my field of expertise, so I recommend making a new thread with the new information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, I just wondered if there was any general info...

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