I bought Chinese ANT-208 FM radio amplifier from Aliexress. I have Klyde KD-7003 Mazda 3 head unit with RK3066 and TDA7706 radio IC.
I installed in my car and took a video. I tried it only in garage yet, on next week I can say more, but it works! In my garage the stations with week noisy signal get clear.
Sorry for the sound quality it's my phones mic
It would be interesting if you could open up the box to see what is inside. I'm wondering if this would do much more than say this one.
I think I need one of these, my radio signal is pathetic. Is that an Eonon unit? Is that the blue ANT wire from their wiring harness?
Also FYI Americans: Joying sells a ANT-208 for $14 if you don't want to wait for shipping from China.
Mr Bigglesworth said:
It would be interesting if you could open up the box to see what is inside. I'm wondering if this would do much more than say this one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you linked is just a power injector, not a real amplifier. Under the plastic case there is a metal box, what you can't open without injury.
DRidilla said:
I think I need one of these, my radio signal is pathetic. Is that an Eonon unit? Is that the blue ANT wire from their wiring harness?
Also FYI Americans: Joying sells a ANT-208 for $14 if you don't want to wait for shipping from China.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, this is a Klyde unit what Eonon resells as Eonon GA5151.
Yes you have to connect the power wire to the blue ANT wire.
Today when I drove to my workplace the signal was as bad as before. So this isn't seems a solution. I think not the signal strength is the problem, but the noise. :crying:
Nooo I had high hopes haha. Well my reception is really bad with two particular channels so hopefully this helps at least with them. Also starting to get antsy and considering taking the unit apart and checking if that foil is broken.
Crap. Unless I missed it, I don't have that extra blue ANT wire in my harness. All I can see in terms of loose wires is two "KEY 5V" wires.
DRidilla said:
Crap. Unless I missed it, I don't have that extra blue ANT wire in my harness. All I can see in terms of loose wires is two "KEY 5V" wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it just needs 12v, one of your wires will provide 12v when unit is powered up, its just a case of finding which
Has anyone tried this antenna amplifier yet ? I'm looking to buy one but some people say it doesn't work. Anybody that has actually installed it have seen any improvement ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Such amplifiers give limited results because they amplify RF noise too.
The biggest problem in cities is that so many radiofrequency devices exist nowdays, that lots of interference gets generated. Using a simple amplifier like this, most often amplifies interference signals too, and makes the tuner of your radio even more crazy.
I fitted the below device from Pumpkin. It sorted my radio and I had no problems mentioned in the post above.
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For best results, the amplifier must be installed close to the antenna, otherwise noise is amplified and the desired signal be swamped under that noise.
This wont be the easiest path to improving reception but will yeild the best results.
- Marc
Power injectors works well if you car antenna has built in antenna amplifier.
If your car antenna dont have amplifier then power injector will disappoint you.
I received an "ant-208" with my Joying HU. In testing it killed AM reception with no discernible improvement on FM. I dismantled to find what appears to be a legitimate RF amp with a 5v regulator and RF amplifier surface mount IC. See attched a jpg.
marchnz said:
I received an "ant-208" with my Joying HU. In testing it killed AM reception with no discernible improvement on FM. I dismantled to find what appears to be a legitimate RF amp with a 5v regulator and RF amplifier surface mount IC. See attched a jpg.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see improvement in my FM reception but not AM as I have mentioned before.
marchnz said:
For best results, the amplifier must be installed close to the antenna, otherwise noise is amplified and the desired signal be swamped under that noise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a long antenna cable, it may help.
Otherwise, in general, an extra RF amlifier can only help if you have a problem in the system. The problem may be an antenna with an impedance problem or a not so good input amplifier (or noisy environment) in the receiver.
If your RF system already is good, you will probably only see extra problems such as problems with overdriving the input when there are strong signals present, and if your reciever is very good and have better noise properties than the amplifier, even worse reception.
In short, if an amplifier solves any problem depends on the environment.
dan-sw said:
If you have a long antenna cable, it may help.
Otherwise, in general, an extra RF amlifier can only help if you have a problem in the system. The problem may be an antenna with an impedance problem or a not so good input amplifier (or noisy environment) in the receiver.
If your RF system already is good, you will probably only see extra problems such as problems with overdriving the input when there are strong signals present, and if your reciever is very good and have better noise properties than the amplifier, even worse reception.
In short, if an amplifier solves any problem depends on the environment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a long antenna cable, even more reason to place the amplifier at the antenna! Placing it at the opposite end will only serve to amplify noise, completely losing signals of interest in noise.
Regarding impedance mismatch, doubt the manufacturer had grossly got this wrong.
Not sure you understand signal to noise.
Note that the tuners in these units appear to suffer from poor selectivity AND sensitivity.
[
marchnz said:
If you have a long antenna cable, even more reason to place the amplifier at the antenna!* Placing it at the opposite end will only serve to amplify noise, completely losing signals of interest in noise.*
Regarding impedance mismatch, doubt the manufacturer had grossly got this wrong.
Not sure you understand signal to noise.
Note that the tuners in these units appear to suffer from poor selectivity AND sensitivity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course the amplifier goes to the antenna side, if at all possible, for the reasons you just said (signal to noise).
About antenna mismatch, the car manufacturers antenna system may have a different impedance than what the (retrofitted) unit expects, and in that case an amplifier may be benifical.
And, yes, the combination of poor selectivity and sensitivity may mean that the amplifier messes thing up when there is a strong signal present, so the milage may wary even with the same system.
To prevent spam on the XDA forums, ALL new users prevented from posting outside links in their messages. After approximately 10 posts, you will be able to post outside links. Thank you for understanding!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google search---->Jensen Marine Amplified AM/FM Hidden Marine-Grade Antenna
best thing I have tried, though its not the exact one in using. Got mine at autozone and can pick up st. Louis, No radio station in central IL but can't with factory antenna.
Related
Hey guys, been digging through the threads and found a couple on earphones, though not exactly what I was looking. Looking for your opinions on best earphones with a microphone for about $35-$65. Comfortable, preferably in ear design. Hoping for a pretty good microphone so that people can actually hear me, especially outside, though I don't want the mic to be huge (that's one thing I liked about the stock headphones till they broke; the mic was discrete). Also, I would prefer one of the earphones to be longer than the other so that I could have them hang around my neck when not in use. All opinions welcome.
So far I've looked at:
Sennheiser MM50
MetroFi 170vi
-Thanks
Hi,
You can try
remote control with HTC ExtUSB
which has: mic+vol up/down+fward/bward
and 3.5 connector
and get an CX 95 style
I order this combination and they are on the way.
Check my post if you need details
Does a Creative EP-630i work on a HD?
dinges54 said:
Does a Creative EP-630i work on a HD?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can barely find anything on those headphones. Do you know if one side is longer than the other? (aka, is it an around the neck design?)
I have found some info:
http://www.ciao.co.uk/Creative_EP_630i_Headset__7249793#productdetail
And a picture:
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Does this headset works the same way as the htc headset that was supplied with the phone?
thanks for the picture. Too bad it's not an around the neck design. And yes, I believe all the headsets will work like the original one. Though I should note that none of the headsets will give you extra functionality like changing songs/volume, but you can still pick up/hang up calls.
I brought a nokia headset hs47 and that does not work well with HD
Personally I use Sennheiser MM50 headphones which has excellent quality
Fallen Spartan said:
Personally I use Sennheiser MM50 headphones which has excellent quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess not better than Sennheiser CX 95.
and MM 50 is about 50 euro(?), similar to cx 95
Fallen Spartan said:
Personally I use Sennheiser MM50 headphones which has excellent quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just about to buy those last night but then I saw that there were alot of fakes floating around and didn't want to get ripped off. Also, I found reviews for the "nuforce ne-7m" and they're all extremely positive. Everyone saying that they're better than the MM50, though, unfortunately, they're not around the neck design. I still ended buying them, if I don't like them I'll just return it and get the MM50s.
Svegetto said:
I was just about to buy those last night but then I saw that there were alot of fakes floating around and didn't want to get ripped off. Also, I found reviews for the "nuforce ne-7m" and they're all extremely positive. Everyone saying that they're better than the MM50, though, unfortunately, they're not around the neck design. I still ended buying them, if I don't like them I'll just return it and get the MM50s.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know how you got on with these, i.e. quality etc. Would be interested in knowing
Fallen Spartan said:
Let me know how you got on with these, i.e. quality etc. Would be interested in knowing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got them on tues (very fast shipping as monday was a holiday). First of all, I'm no audiophile but here's my best 'imho.' Compared to the stock headphones, well, you really can't compare them. It's like listening to music in 3D; there's depth to the sound. The mic is in a good position and tiny. So far, everyone has said that they've had no problem hearing me and I've never heard the wind blowing in my earphones (which use to happen all the time on the stock ones). They block out sound very well and don't disrupt others since you can't hear the music unless u have them on/are really really close. If you turn up the volume (on the HD) all the way up, it gets ridiculously loud, but remains high quality. The cable is nice and long (sometimes that's an issue for me since I'm like 6feet 4in (1.93m). Extremely comfortable!
Cons(?): Not around the neck design. 'Bent' (L shaped) jack vs the stock straight jack. The sound carries through the wire into the headphones when they hit/touch something (like a zipper on a sweatshirt); however I think this might be true on all in-ear headphones? If anyone can comment on that, especially on the MM50 in that scenario.
3 other notes: It has one of those sliders were the line separates into the right/left headphone to help keep them from tangling. Came with a pouch and 3 other sized ear pieces. It has a 'clip' to clip the headphones to a piece of clothing so that they don't bounce around.
If you have any other questions or I missed something let me know and I'll try and get it answered for you.
Svegetto said:
Got them on tues (very fast shipping as monday was a holiday). First of all, I'm no audiophile but here's my best 'imho.' Compared to the stock headphones, well, you really can't compare them. It's like listening to music in 3D; there's depth to the sound. The mic is in a good position and tiny. So far, everyone has said that they've had no problem hearing me and I've never heard the wind blowing in my earphones (which use to happen all the time on the stock ones). They block out sound very well and don't disrupt others since you can't hear the music unless u have them on/are really really close. If you turn up the volume (on the HD) all the way up, it gets ridiculously loud, but remains high quality. The cable is nice and long (sometimes that's an issue for me since I'm like 6feet 4in (1.93m). Extremely comfortable!
Cons(?): Not around the neck design. 'Bent' (L shaped) jack vs the stock straight jack. The sound carries through the wire into the headphones when they hit/touch something (like a zipper on a sweatshirt); however I think this might be true on all in-ear headphones? If anyone can comment on that, especially on the MM50 in that scenario.
3 other notes: It has one of those sliders were the line separates into the right/left headphone to help keep them from tangling. Came with a pouch and 3 other sized ear pieces. It has a 'clip' to clip the headphones to a piece of clothing so that they don't bounce around.
If you have any other questions or I missed something let me know and I'll try and get it answered for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good review IMO. Sounds similar to MM50, though lacking around the neck design would put me off them.
acolytelee said:
Hi,
You can try
remote control with HTC ExtUSB
which has: mic+vol up/down+fward/bward
and 3.5 connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think this combination does not work with the Blackstone.
All others should probably check out this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=502881
Ther is an application that allows you to play/pause and play the next track with the button on the headphones.
I know nobody asked for it but i think its quite practical
First of all, this is my 2nd hands-free Bluetooth device (my 1st was a [Nokia BH-900] that barely worked on my PC but worked well on my N95).
Ever since the day I got my HTC Hero, I really missed using a wireless headset to listen to music/internet radio.
Thankfully, one day I saw what I wanted and it was for a great price! ($39.99 USD)
Okay, enough with my rambling, time for the good/bad stuff:
*Since every retailer who sells these always lists specs and box contents, I won't bore you with the same boring thing.
Pros:
+Once paired, it connects easily with my HTC Hero [Elelinux-7.1.0-RC1-Hero-v3.1], Macbook Air, PC [Vista Business/Windows 7 Professional] laptops. Obviously, not all at the same time.
+Has multiple earbud accessories for numerous ear sizes.
+Does not have a goofy blue flashing indicator.
+Once on your ear, it won't come off unless you want it to.
+You can use your own headphones in conjunction with the headset.
+The 3.7V, 100mA gives about ~6 hours of continuous use (videos and music).
Now for the very short list of the negatives...
Cons:
-The entire unit is housed in a cheap plastic shell (my unit fell to pieces when I received it [2 little dabs of glue quickly fixed this])
-Even though this unit is the same standard size as the newest headsets in the market, it feels a bit heavy. I think this is due to the fact that I don't use it everyday and I have weak ears canals.
-The "text-to-voice" software in the Android marketplace is worthless with the HTC Hero.
Although a lot of the functions can't be used on the Hero (text-to-speech messages/email/time, headset locator, etc), you probably could use it on other phones/devices.
If you have a HTC Hero and want/need a wired/wireless headset, buy this unit! It has everything you'll ever need. Period.
Finally, since I only use this as a wireless headset, I never tested the microphone quality. I still haven't developed the backbone to wear this out in the public .
Pics (I can take more upon request):
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http://sellout.woot.com/ has it for $29.99 today. Anyone else have this and want to comment on their experience? Most of the reviews on Amazon are poor.
Hi CGeyser, could you please check with the manual and advise what's the frequency range of the HM6450 (regarding the audio playback)? I try to identify that online but got no clues anywhere.THX
BTW, how's the noise reduction with its dual-mic?
The manual doesn't say anything about any frequency range of the phone and audio playback. It only shows pairing instructions and liability statements.
I use my wired stereo headphones in conjunction with the headset (my ear canals are sensitive to the weight of BT headsets). I can clearly hear the caller and they can hear me as well. It eliminates the majority of background noise while allowing you to hear/to be heard. This configuration isn't very convenient, but it allows you to use the device without looking like a goofy businessman/businesswoman.
I have yet to use the BT headset by itself so I can't attest to the audio/mic quality.
Job21 said:
Hi CGeyser, could you please check with the manual and advise what's the frequency range of the HM6450 (regarding the audio playback)? I try to identify that online but got no clues anywhere.THX
BTW, how's the noise reduction with its dual-mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks CGeyser. Your input is already doing much more help than Samsung's support (like you said, nothing indicative could be found from their manual)
Job21, just curious, why do you want to know the frequency range?
I imagine that its the same if not similar to other BT headsets already out in the market.
Are you worried that it'll interfere with your wireless network(s)? If so, you should be able to easily change your router's settings.
CGeyser said:
Job21, just curious, why do you want to know the frequency range?
I imagine that its the same if not similar to other BT headsets already out in the market.
Are you worried that it'll interfere with your wireless network(s)? If so, you should be able to easily change your router's settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry for confusing u.
for frequency range i was referring to the headsets output (bass to treble) to earphone.
since i'm planning to get a quality pair,and hope hm6450 would get me a wider range and best utilize the earphone
ps i finally manage to identify user manual of each hm6450 / hm3700 /hs3000 from 3 diff site of samsung worldwide, what a good support
Hmmm...as of now, I don't know of any BT headset that'll allow you to directly change the bass & treble on-the-fly. Maybe with some software on your phone "might" be able to change it (virtually/simulated).
On the headset, you can only change the volume and the device(s) it gets paired to.
As it is now, the sound quality is excellent as any good BT headsets get. Not as good as as my wireless Sennheiser headphones, but still very good.
CGeyser said:
Hmmm...as of now, I don't know of any BT headset that'll allow you to directly change the bass & treble on-the-fly. Maybe with some software on your phone "might" be able to change it (virtually/simulated).
On the headset, you can only change the volume and the device(s) it gets paired to.
As it is now, the sound quality is excellent as any good BT headsets get. Not as good as as my wireless Sennheiser headphones, but still very good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking if this HM6450 or someother BT headset would allow most of the original signal to feed to the earphone (just checked, it should be frequency RESPONSE indeed).
But like you said, there should be standard output among different brand and gives no big difference at all.
Sorry I couldn't help you as much as I could. I'm not really an audiophile.
In case anyone wants to scan for components and stuff...
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nook-Tablet-Teardown/7121/2
say nothing about wifi chip. still know nothing about BT
Thanks! I wish they had told us what wireless chip it is.
BT chip is sort of meaningless. Look for the BT antenna. Without that, it does not matter if it has a BT chip of not.
Probably the same antenna as the NC.
rmm200 said:
BT chip is sort of meaningless. Look for the BT antenna. Without that, it does not matter if it has a BT chip of not.
Probably the same antenna as the NC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some will find it not meaningless. Sure for some things it is not useful, but it still allowed the ability to pair it with a wireless keyboard and with wii remotes for retro gaming. I believe some used bluetooth to connect gps device for cars and such so it is not a total loss.
*not disagreeing that antenna is important but it would be nice to know if any bt support will come.
My understanding was that without an antenna - the BT signal will not leave the NT enclosure, much less reach a wireless device next to it.
Would be glad to know I am wrong on this - but I don't think I am.
rmm200 said:
My understanding was that without an antenna - the BT signal will not leave the NT enclosure, much less reach a wireless device next to it.
Would be glad to know I am wrong on this - but I don't think I am.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it lacks the antenna but has the chip, might be possible to swap out a NC antenna.
Sent from my Nook Tablet using Tapatalk.
bogatyr said:
If it lacks the antenna but has the chip, might be possible to swap out a NC antenna.
Sent from my Nook Tablet using Tapatalk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or make one. A little dipole isn't much more than a cat hair. Usually getting on the board is the challenge.
Here is a link to a BT antenna datasheet:
http://www.auden.com.tw/TRC/tw/product/pdf/41.pdf
Theye are easy to come by, very generic, and very inexpensive - but surface mount technology is very hard to add after the fact.
At the very least - hopefully the NT has the unpopulated lands for one.
bogatyr said:
If it lacks the antenna but has the chip, might be possible to swap out a NC antenna.
Sent from my Nook Tablet using Tapatalk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps I am wrong but I didn't believe the NC had an antenna and that was why the range was so short, ie ~foot max.
after searching lots of threads it looks like nc shared the same antenna as wifi. there is no dedicated antenna for bluetooth though in NC, so either it is sharing it or it's non-existant.
That has to be an easy one for someone here to answer - did the NC have a BT antenna?
I thought it did...
rmm200 said:
That has to be an easy one for someone here to answer - did the NC have a BT antenna?
I thought it did...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
after searching lots of threads it looks like nc shared the same antenna as wifi. there is no dedicated antenna for bluetooth though in NC, so either it is sharing it or it's non-existant.
It's a lousy teardown compared to the one for the KF. Half of it is devoted to meaningless appearance comparisons, and none of the PCB parts are shown in detail.
Anyway, battery spec is same as the NC (3.7V, 4Ah), and is less than the KF (3.7V, 4.4Ah). Interesting that cited battery life is longer than both the KF and the older NC, especially given the NT's x2 RAM. Either somebody is being optimistic, which is likely, or the KF's custom UI sucks both speed and power.
The Bluetooth situation looks to be the same as the NC and KF, even if there isn't a close-up of the chip involved. There's a single connector for the wifi antenna pigtail. The short of it is that BT will probably the work same as the NC, ie close-range only since no BT antenna.
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The Nook Color's layout of the wifi module is almost identical (below). The ZDNet's NC teardown was more detailed, but didn't remove the heat shielding for the money shot.
Thank you! Those pictures help a lot. That last one is an excellent picture.
Thanks for the bluetooth info guys , here is the spec sheet of the screen but it says is TFT not IPS or I am wrong http://lcd.eechain.com/datasheet_detail.asp?bg_key=E1&sk_nub=LD070WS2-SL02
Speedy Gonzalez said:
Thanks for the bluetooth info guys , here is the spec sheet of the screen but it says is TFT not IPS or I am wrong http://lcd.eechain.com/datasheet_detail.asp?bg_key=E1&sk_nub=LD070WS2-SL02
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IPS is a type of TFT panel
Edit: IPS is not a type of TFT
IPS from wiki:
In-Plane Switching was developed by Hitachi Ltd. in 1996 to improve on the poor viewing angle and the poor color reproduction of TN panels at that time.[6] Its name comes from the main difference from TN panels, that the crystal molecules move parallel to the panel plane instead of perpendicular to it. This change reduces the amount of light scattering in the matrix, which gives IPS its characteristic wide viewing angles and good color reproduction.[7]
Initial iterations of IPS technology were plagued by slow response time and a low contrast ratio but later evolutions have made marked improvements to these shortcomings. Because of its wide viewing angle and accurate color reproduction (with almost no off-angle color shift), IPS is widely employed in high-end monitors aimed at professional graphic artists, although with the recent fall in price it has been seen in the mainstream market as well.
TFT from wiki :
Thin film transistor liquid crystal display (TFT-LCD) is a variant of liquid crystal display (LCD) which uses thin-film transistor (TFT) technology to improve image quality (e.g., addressability, contrast). TFT LCD is one type of Active matrix LCD, though all LCD-screens are based on TFT active matrix addressing. TFT LCDs are used in television sets, computer monitors, mobile phones, handheld video game systems, personal digital assistants, navigation systems, projectors, etc.
According to the Engadgit review--the only one to have a standardized run-down test--the NT's battery life is indeed significantly better than the KF, despite a smaller battery:
Barnes & Noble Nook Tablet - 8:20
Amazon Kindle Fire - 7:42
I'm revising my opinion to say that it's likely due to NT's better hardware design (improved from the old NC), even with x2 RAM and x2 flash storage.
http://www.engadget.com/2011/11/21/barnes-and-noble-nook-tablet-review/#continued
I've been hammering away on my NT all day and still have over 85% battery life. This thing lasts a long time, but so did the battery on the NC.
I would be willing to say that most of the perceived battery life difference is due to differences in the display hardware.
Everything else is just too close, hardware-wise. Ram takes nothing compared to the display.
Here's the video :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_FmxdH7o8
My opinion is that there were enough room to save Jack but Samsung won't for commercial reasons.
Just watch a S10+ teardown to see as small a jack is.
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my opinion,
thinner phone to maintain symmetry and a larger display for grip. removal of audio Jack to prevent introduction of structural vulnerability due to thinner phone.
a dedicated DAC from usbc to Jack may be more premium than a builtin one. also, more and more people are jumping to wireless solution. this will help galaxy buds as well.
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
jemfalor said:
my opinion,
thinner phone to maintain symmetry and a larger display for grip. removal of audio Jack to prevent introduction of structural vulnerability due to thinner phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're maybe right, but the Note10+ is thicker than the S10+ wich have the jack. But as I said, maybe you're right.
jemfalor said:
a dedicated DAC from usbc to Jack may be more premium than a builtin one. also, more and more people are jumping to wireless solution. this will help galaxy buds as well.
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I totally agree with that. BUT... several DAC manufacturer (like ibasso) have stopped to support Samsung Galaxy phones (includind S9, S10, Note9 and Note10) due to a "non regular" USB-C wiring.
billy_boolean said:
You're maybe right, but the Note10+ is thicker than the S10+ wich have the jack. But as I said, maybe you're right.
I totally agree with that. BUT... several DAC manufacturer (like ibasso) have stopped to support Samsung Galaxy phones (includind S9, S10, Note9 and Note10) due to a "non regular" USB-C wiring.
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Hmm, I hope my TempoTec Sonata HD Hi-Res dongle will work on Note 10. I like it and it works fine on my Pixel 2. Edit: Just tested the aforementioned dongle on S10e and it works nicely!
billy_boolean said:
You're maybe right, but the Note10+ is thicker than the S10+ wich have the jack. But as I said, maybe you're right.
I totally agree with that. BUT... several DAC manufacturer (like ibasso) have stopped to support Samsung Galaxy phones (includind S9, S10, Note9 and Note10) due to a "non regular" USB-C wiring.
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Click to collapse
no worries.
note 10+ vs note 9 has a difference of 0.9mm thickness.
s10+ vs s9+ has a difference of 0.7mm thickness.
many possibilities.
we can see note 10+ has an extensive reduction in thickness probably to compensate the slightly wider body than note 9.
probably due to survey or demands or market research, they figured battery usage pattern for note means priority for a larger battery capacity.
dedicated dac may be a better solution if any audiophiles want quality audio.
there is an increasing trend of people opting for TWS earbuds due to the convenience of listening to one bud at any point of time, youtube video for example don't need stereo.
support galaxy buds
digital device should have less analog components.
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Maybe all of you are right, but being skeptic as I'm, I would speculate that this is all BS (having better DAC doesn't mean you can't have headphone jack, USB C always had pins for analog audio etc.) I would speculate installing headphone jack may cost let's say 50 cents, multiply that by lets say 20 million phones, they get to save cool $10M. It was the main reason that Crapple did it and every sheep followed sooner or later. And headphone jack is not only for headphones, I have tools that communicate with phone over headphone jack and now they won't work anymore. It's really bad when Samsung starts penny pinching on their $1k flagship phones, because it wasn't lack of space for missing heart rate monitor, or tiny notification LED.
pete4k said:
Maybe all of you are right, but being skeptic as I'm, I would speculate that this is all BS (having better DAC doesn't mean you can't have headphone jack, USB C always had pins for analog audio etc.) I would speculate installing headphone jack may cost let's say 50 cents, multiply that by lets say 20 million phones, they get to save cool $10M. It was the main reason that Crapple did it and every sheep followed sooner or later. And headphone jack is not only for headphones, I have tools that communicate with phone over headphone jack and now they won't work anymore. It's really bad when Samsung starts penny pinching on their $1k flagship phones, because it wasn't lack of space for missing heart rate monitor, or tiny notification LED.
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look at other thread on usbc headphone that comes with the phone. quality is better
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Hi guys,
Using an audio analyzer you can always see but obviously not hear these proportionately spaced audio spikes coming from the V60. It can also be measured using another device by bringing it closer to the V60. I'm attaching a couple of screenshots that show what I mean.
I've read that the second screen is wireless and about wireless payment or charging functions that could be playing a part in this.. I'm really not sure so I decided to ask if anyone else sees the same thing. It's the first time I've encountered this on any device so I'm pretty curious.
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What format is the output ie bt, 24 bit toshlink?
With stereo speakers in a room you could hear that. With closed drivers ie headphones no.
blackhawk said:
What format is the output ie bt, 24 bit toshlink?
With stereo speakers in a room you could hear that. With closed drivers ie headphones no.
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This is the V60 internal mic picking it up. Default Android output/input (48000hz 24bit, I assume). I just open any free RTA analyzer (with good enough resolution) , and it picks it up. It's always on when the screen is on. it can be seen and measured with any device able to pick up above 18Khz (I used another iphone 7 with the built in mic). When the screen goes of it's gone, when only the fingerprint scanner is visible on the V60, theres only one spike visible around 18500hz. When the whole screen is on, I can see a mountain of spikes around 18500hz, evenly spaced. My guesses are it's either connected to the fingerprint scanner, wireless second display, wireless pay or charge functions. My LG V60 is the only device I've witnessed this with and Ive only measured this one device so I'm not sure if there's something wrong with mine or all V60s behave this way. Either way its interesting . The app in the photos is Sound Spectrum Pro, I like it because it has extremely wide resolution and you can zoom in on any frequency range.
Try disabling the fingerprint scanner...
I just disabled the fingerprint scanner and it's still showing. I made a video and I'll try attaching it here.
Youtube LG v60 18500hz evenly spaced sound spikes
Maybe from the power regulation? External interference? There's no negative portion to that wave pattern.
blackhawk said:
Maybe from the power regulation? External interference? There's no negative portion to that wave pattern.
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External interference can be pretty much ruled out at this point. I noticed the missing negative half. The evenly spaced spikes do shift in frequency once in a while but not very much, still in the 18600 18700hz range, than slowly shift back to just above 18500hz. They always stay evenly spaced, they maintain the same distance from each other. They are over 20db in amplitude and if I really zoom in, the tips seem so narrow that it doesn't look like just an analog signal.
It would really help to see if anyone else can turn on RTA audio analyzer on their V60 and find out if they see the same thing.
Himediadroid said:
External interference can be pretty much ruled out at this point. I noticed the missing negative half. The evenly spaced spikes do shift in frequency once in a while but not very much, still in the 18600 18700hz range, than slowly shift back to just above 18500hz. They always stay evenly spaced, they maintain the same distance from each other. They are over 20db in amplitude and if I really zoom in, the tips seem so narrow that it doesn't look like just an analog signal.
It would really help to see if anyone else can turn on RTA audio analyzer on their V60 and find out if they see the same thing.
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Click to collapse
I noticed that when
Himediadroid said:
External interference can be pretty much ruled out at this point. I noticed the missing negative half. The evenly spaced spikes do shift in frequency once in a while but not very much, still in the 18600 18700hz range, than slowly shift back to just above 18500hz. They always stay evenly spaced, they maintain the same distance from each other. They are over 20db in amplitude and if I really zoom in, the tips seem so narrow that it doesn't look like just an analog signal.
It would really help to see if anyone else can turn on RTA audio analyzer on their V60 and find out if they see the same thing.
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Click to collapse
Hi I just noticed that when I attach the second screen on the v60 theres another spike that appears immediately preceding the others and goes away when the second screen is off. Perhaps this is where at least some of the spikes relate to. Still very curious
Himediadroid said:
I noticed that when
Hi I just noticed that when I attach the second screen on the v60 theres another spike that appears immediately preceding the others and goes away when the second screen is off. Perhaps this is where at least some of the spikes relate to. Still very curious
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Poor circuit isolation.
Whatever the cause(s) with a stereo signal in open air listening area those spikes will be audible when those sound waves interact with the other audio frequencies to produce secondary waves in the audible range.
With sealed systems like headsets, buds etc few can hear them directly, but some can especially younger females.
Interesting things do happen when I bring it next to a plugged in guitar pickup. Even with airplane mode on, no wifi and screen closed. I guess I was hoping for it to be intentional rather than not.