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@all,
since i am the sporting kind, i need a "usable" device- not one i need to pamper!
coming from the good old p3300 / artemis i am close to selling my topaz since the plane display constantly touches any surface that i carry it in, the back with its all shiny plastic is a pure (pun intended) pain!
all in all this device has far too much plastic, especially this terrible screen surface!, to even survive the next year, whereas my P3300 has lasted me a good 4 years with quite some battering.
calling the topaz a diamond surely is a joke: not even the slightest amount of solidity allowing any kind of resemblance with a diamond!!!
so, any remedies for that? (to keep me from selling it again!)
greetz
I have no idea. Maybe a nice case + screen protector? I know what you mean, though. My blueangel has lasted me 5 years and is still going strong, while the TD2 probobly will not last half that long.
http://www.zagg.com/invisibleshield/htc-pure-cases-screen-protectors-covers-skins-shields.php
this would sure be a solution...but i remember seeing an iphone having worn one of these for 2 months:
all contact points of iphone and shield were matted /scratches due to the housing constantly rubbing at those points
any experience on that point?
I've used a zagg screen protector only, which was very nice, but not the full body protectors.
i am selling it!
anybody interested in buying a well cared for topaz with full eplus guaranty from germany... ( contract free)
i am fed up with this gadget and returning to my p3300/spv m650
greetz
I know what you mean, my old P3300 with its recessed screen and mostly matt plastic body was fairly sturdy, although I did wear the silver part off on the back!
BUT, and its a big but, the P3300 is several years old, very slow, low capacity internal memory, poor screen (plus smaller) etc...
I wouldn't go back to it unless I had to, I've got the supplied screen protector on my TD2 and apart from the back (which I think we all can agree is terrible) it shows no signs of wear.
There are plenty if cases out there, try one or two out for size.
I have had my Topaz since April, I tend to keep it in a case and always use a screen protector, it has been dropped onto concrete (with and without case), got wet (in rain not full immersion) left in a hot car for 6 hours and sat on! Apart from 1 small ding in the top right corner you cannot tell it from new. I do get annoyed about the finger prints on the back though
I'm personally using a PDair silicone cas end a screen protector, these don't add too much bulk while giving a degree of protection. They will not protect from water or a lot of dust, but work fine for me. From what you say perhaps an aluminium case/sleeve similar to what I've seen for iPods would work?
Ehm... so why did you buy topaz since you are a sporting kind? It is quite obvious it is not designed for rock-climbing
AWESOME! look at my details...viva South Africa!
anyways, i'm loving my Topaz...and i'm interested in what price you would be keen on selling for... send me a pm (i'm based in Frankfurt am Main btw)
funny,
i am situated near essen!
greetz
p.s. pn
The google-fu is weak in this one
You are clearly looking for this website which specialises in ruggedised PDA and computer equipment.
Understand that in order to be able to withstand harsh environments, any electronic device will be lower specified (as high spec components produce more heat), be heavier and bulkier (to accommodate impact and water resistance), and more than likely less "every day" functional than a consumer-oriented product. You may, however, find that they include features not associated with consumer devices.
EDIT: I've just re-read your comment, and want to point out a common misconception regarding the properties of diamond. It is indeed a very hard substance substance, but that does not make it particularly strong. A diamond coating on the screen will definitely help stop scratches on the surface, but won't protect it from impact in the same way a rubberised coating would.
Hard substances resist abrasion; Strong substances resist deformation. A diamond cannot be scratched by any other known substance other than another diamond, but if you hit one with a hammer it will shatter.
On e-bay they sell a hard plastic rubberized case.
These add almost no bulk and it recesses your screen a bit.
Unfortunately, when I bought mine, it was only offered from Japan, so I still have not received it yet, but I have used them on other devices and they work great. In addition to the Zagg protector ofcourse.
Hello, looking for a broken/borked/dead HTC One to attempt a different disassembly method to try to help the One community.
It is my understanding that they are glued together, not screwed, and that the suction cup method does not work. I used to retrofit headlights that also used glues, some heat glues, some needed a solvent. I have a lot of technical skill, and i would like to try my hand at popping one apart WITHOUT destroying the case/screen. I dont care if its water damaged, cracked screen, whatever, as long as its intact.
Posted this in all HTC One sections, please PM me if you have one or know of one, i'll pay shipping to and fro (i will NOT attempt repairs, JUST non-destructive disassembly) and post the results and a video on youtube if successful, and ship the unit back disassembled if successful, and not damaged further if not successful.
Please PM if interested or if you have any heads up to exchange contact information.
Thank you,
Slade8525
Interesting, have you looked in eBay yet?
TrueYears said:
Interesting, have you looked in eBay yet?
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not yet, i may later, but i want to see if its possible to decouple the hardware with simple acetate gas in a bag (pretty safe; its nail polish remover) and a low heat gun with a suction cup.
thats how i got the glass off my friends iphone digitizer when he cracked just the glass, then reglued it. glass screen cost $10 on amazon, screen/digitizer was only available through apple as a $200-something repair job.
joboutu trace
Ive taken one apart. Your not getting it apart without damaging the housing. No if's and's or but's. The amount of heat required to melt the glue holding the housing assembly together would damage the LCD (believe me, I know). In addition, any chemicals used will risk melting the delicate white plastic that is molded to the case. What I will tell you is that this will be a phone that requires a housing any time you service anything inside. Look on ebay. Complete housings are 50 bucks, that is what you will be looking at if you have to change a battery, lcd or internal board. I will say that 50 bucks isnt to bad for an aluminum housing. Plus, it freshens up the one to look like new. Let me know if you have any questions.
So, as we all know the Omate TrueSmart is as waterproof as a leaky boat, or perhaps a sponge.
However, I don't think there are any other Horologists on the forum at the moment. ( wikipedia horologist http:// en.wikipedia.org /wiki/horologist ).
After looking at the "seals" on the case buttons, and the laughable o-ring that Umeox/Omate have chosen to use on the back, along with the piece of silicone flap that they are using to seal the SIM card... I have to say that expecting it to be water resistant to any degree is a bit laughable.
So, I have a solution, the same one used by Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Citizen, Seiko, etc.. etc...
* Liquid silicone sealant gel on the SIM card seal and flap.
* Replace the silicone o-rings for the watch back with a thin silicone gasket, with more sealant gel
* Retrofit and replace the button seals, or create black silicone button covers that better seal them
I'm going to have to look at the speaker port on the watchband. I don't know if there is a simple solution there to make it compliant for 1 meter depth without severely affecting the quality of the sound output from that port. A brief examination makes it seem that the port -might- be able to take IP67 conditions .. but without reinforcement, I doubt it could take the forces involved in a swim, waves, wakes, spas.
Still, I think I can put together a kit, and instructions that careful and diligent people could use to retrofit the TrueSmart to make it far more waterproof than the manufacturer does. The kit would cost between $15 and $25 US, mostly to cover the cost of making custom molds for the silicone gaskets. ( There is a local TechShop here in Austin, and I have a CNC mill to make the aluminum molds, and all the design experience and software I need. Even so, a small super-accurate mold is a couple hundred dollars worth of materials and work. )
If there is enough interest evidenced here on a poll, I'll make the kit.
Sincerely,
Martin Bogomolni
Maker, Horologist, Coder, and Machinist
Need to redesign the case so that the speaker is sealed as well.
I've read that the O-rings are different among different runs. If the shape of the part of the case they fit against is different as well, wouldn't that make this effort require potentially as many different molds as the number of firmwares Loki has been trying to contend with? Or is it just the ring that's been different?
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
Then that means I'll need to make two or three variants of the kit. This will also require some externally-visible way to identify the differences between various batches of TrueSmart watches.
Lokifish Marz said:
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
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I think, just an opinion, that if the gasket between the body and the back cover has holes for the screws to pass through it like on my Last of the Kickstarter Dev Eds, 1/8/1900, delivered first of the USA group in early Feb, then that gasket works if properly placed and screwed together. The housing on these is flat, without raised screw hole posts and no groove.
I think the main problem you are going to need to overcome is the buttons and the mic pinhole leaking.
The speaker, if it doesn't mind getting wet itself, provides no entry path into the body if the wire set going in has been properly sealed inside (white sealant on mine, I think). Water could destroy the speaker, OK maybe, but not the watch unless it can follow the speaker connections back up into the body. Where the band halves meet the body on both sides there is a hole through the body to let the cables through, sealed inside with some white stuff. Maybe sealed...
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
The speaker is inside the case (under the square "bump" in the backplate) and uses nothing more than double sided tape. It is partly held into place by the plastic insert.
What is that open slot for then, in the band on the speaker side ?
Where the sound comes out ?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Yep. (see attached image)
Yes I was also curious about how the waterproofness of the speaker and microphone port would be approached. But I'm definitely down for one of these.
For what it's worth, I've submerged (no more than 2ft) my NA 1gb/8gb OTS and used it in the shower after having opened the bottom. During the first week I was constantly checking inside the case for internal moisture and didn't see any. It's been a while, but I remember thinking the physical buttons looked like they would let water in if used while underwater, but that didn't seem to happen.
for giggles, my omate arrived with bad software, and only pulling the battery would fix it. I had first tried letting the battery die out but the vcom drivers didn't fully take until i pulled the battery, so the water seal warranty was moot from early on. I don't remember how long I waited, but I sent the following screen to cecilia and a few other mailboxes at omate for help with no response (surprise!) before pulling the battery and stepping through the restore guides.
Looking back, I can't even imagine how the bootloader got to be so trashed! Volume up and down you say?
I am in. Also shared on G+ and KS comments the poll, good luck!
Yep
I'm definitely in support of this. I created a kayaking app that is pretty useless with the watch the way it is... having this kit out there would be great.
Hi. I am a watchmaker (horlogist?) from Germany and its my daily job to make watches watertight.
I have access to professional measuring devices for checking the watches if they are sealed. It is testet via air pressure, no water. The watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
Further tests to locate the leak are made with water tests.
I havent received my pre ordered true smart yet (but I own a simvalley AW-414.go). Before I would test the true smart I would like to know how much pressure it could take before the screen brakes.
After the long wait and seeing this IPx7 drama unfold, I decided to just flip my TrueSmart on delivery - and flog it on eBay/Amazon without ever opening the box. Depending on the delivery timeline and other factors (such as the impending release of the Polar V800 and Garmin fenix 2) I may reconsider that strategy if this "aftermarket waterproofing" plan gains momentum.
I checked the option to be willing to pay for professional install (having waited this long - and the fact that the V800 is another $100 more expensive than the TrueSmart) but I'm more than happy to do the install myself if the kit is solid. From what I gather in the initial post, it's going to be a far sight better than the factory seal. So, if I keep my TrueSmart I'd be in for either the home install or the pro install option.
FWIW - I could care less about using this phone in **** Tracy mode [trademark pending]. For my money, stuff a grommet in the ports and glue/seal them in place - my goal is to use the device for training.
DerUhrmacher said:
HThe watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
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In a pressurized submersion test it will fill with water before anything else. The case was never tested beyond about 0.015 Bar and even then it wasn't tested properly (bare case, no buttons or straps and all the ports sealed in 15cm of water).
Them doing something as simple as not putting in the speaker right or the double sided tape not seal correctly on the speaker will negate any water resistance it may have had.
Had any luck looking into this?
I would definitely be interested in a kit to improve waterproofing...
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Me too ! I don't see a survey, maybe Tapatalk does not support surveys ?
I bought a NeverWet spray set from HomeDePot recently. They show how to treat an iPhone 5 by removing the back cover and spraying inside. I don't have an iPhone or I might try it. Wouldn't care...the stuff worked pretty good on my shoes though.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
In the meantime...
Hi horologists,
I was wondering: is there anything a layman could do in the meantime to, at least, improve the water sealing on the TrueSmart? I'm not interested in submerging it or taking a shower; I just don't want to be afraid that my watch will short if I get stuck in rain and put it in my pocket.
One of the things I obviously don't want to be doing is just smearing vaseline all over it as that'll ruin the silicone components, correct? I am currently purchasing silicone grease (dielectric so non-conductive) to improve the seals on the bottom and around the sim card case. What should I do about the buttons? Can I put more grease around their edges? Would vaseline be apprpriate there, since it's coming in contact with my skin and there seems to be no silicone gaskets? What's the best quick fix for buttons?
Sorry if these questions are stupid but... this is admittedly coming from a place of utter ignorance. : )
Take care and thanks very much.
Hi, to start off sorry if this is not in the right location.
I thought I might get the ball rolling and possibly spark the idea if it's not already an option for use on more than just one phone.
I really hate my Xperia Z2 for one reason. The glass backplate of the phone can shatter easily.
Sure, you can buy a replacement but the quality is garbage in comparison to oem and I've heard Sony will replace it for 200$ USD? forget that.
I've replaced the cover buying from ebay and amazon and after getting my fourth replacement, it cracked just applying it to my phone...
So my question is, how do I get my hands on an aluminum replacement or some sort of metal that will at least stand the test of time?
I'm also thinking of getting in touch with a sheet metal fabricator, as I see no other options out there or just keep using the phone without a backplate and a bulky case. The Z2 is still kicking ass otherwise so I really think it's crazy to replace my phone that's only a few years old and
let it sit there collecting dust cause of a cosmetic issue.
SkyboneNoya said:
Hi, to start off sorry if this is not in the right location.
I thought I might get the ball rolling and possibly spark the idea if it's not already an option for use on more than just one phone.
I really hate my Xperia Z2 for one reason. The glass backplate of the phone can shatter easily.
Sure, you can buy a replacement but the quality is garbage in comparison to oem and I've heard Sony will replace it for 200$ USD? forget that.
I've replaced the cover buying from ebay and amazon and after getting my fourth replacement, it cracked just applying it to my phone...
So my question is, how do I get my hands on an aluminum replacement or some sort of metal that will at least stand the test of time?
I'm also thinking of getting in touch with a sheet metal fabricator, as I see no other options out there or just keep using the phone without a backplate and a bulky case. The Z2 is still kicking ass otherwise so I really think it's crazy to replace my phone that's only a few years old and
let it sit there collecting dust cause of a cosmetic issue.
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Metal is a bad idea because it'll block the radio signals. Yes, there's plenty of metal-framed phones, but they all have plastic strips or some other means of not blocking signals. If the phone's not deliberately designed that way, it won't work well. For example, when I briefly had a Note 3, I got one of those aluminum/carbon fibre cases, and even though the back was only a skeletonized aluminum, it still dropped my signal by 1 or 2 bars.
Carbon fibre, however, would be a pretty cool choice. I have no idea the thickness of the back glass on the Z2, but you can probably find sheets of the appropriate thickness, even if it's a flexible sheet. It won't exactly be cheap (probably ~$20 for a 6x6" sheet of whatever), but it'd look really cool and definitely stand the test of time.
Planterz said:
Metal is a bad idea because it'll block the radio signals. Yes, there's plenty of metal-framed phones, but they all have plastic strips or some other means of not blocking signals. If the phone's not deliberately designed that way, it won't work well. For example, when I briefly had a Note 3, I got one of those aluminum/carbon fibre cases, and even though the back was only a skeletonized aluminum, it still dropped my signal by 1 or 2 bars.
Carbon fibre, however, would be a pretty cool choice. I have no idea the thickness of the back glass on the Z2, but you can probably find sheets of the appropriate thickness, even if it's a flexible sheet. It won't exactly be cheap (probably ~$20 for a 6x6" sheet of whatever), but it'd look really cool and definitely stand the test of time.
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Nice, I didn't think about signal blocking. Carbon fiber sounds cool.
I dropped my Padfone X on concrete, and it broke the front glass! I've never broken a screen/glass on any phone before, and this was my first. With that being said, is there any way to cheaply repair it? Since it's just collecting dust, I can give it a try with one of the kits online. Does anyone suggest a kit? It seems like most solutions would cost just as much as a new one. Any help would be much appreciated!
Tahleel
tahleel said:
I dropped my Padfone X on concrete, and it broke the front glass! I've never broken a screen/glass on any phone before, and this was my first. With that being said, is there any way to cheaply repair it? Since it's just collecting dust, I can give it a try with one of the kits online. Does anyone suggest a kit? It seems like most solutions would cost just as much as a new one. Any help would be much appreciated!
Tahleel
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Easiest method would be to buy something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Touch-...764621?hash=item3aafc100cd:g:wPYAAOSwT6pVzb3a
Otherwise you could use this method as used on the Nexus 6, I doubt you have to disassemble as far.
But you would need the following:
Optically clear glue with UV light Kit $14.95 US
To apply new screen and set the glue
Molybdenum wire $7.99 US
To safely remove old glass with damaging the LCD underneath
Phone pry tool $5.00 US
To pry edge up to get molybdenum wire underneath
A replacement glass/digitizer if you can find one.
Some kind of heat source to heat up the glue to make easily removed without damaging LCD. A special hotplate is recommended, but a heatgun with finess and not getting LCD too hot will work or popping in oven at around 90 C or around 200 F for no more than 5 minutes until you can still touch it, just too hot to hold your finger on it.
Ultimately the first method would be cheaper after buying all the special tools for the tools and much easier. You could also buy a bricked Padfone X/S and swap motherboards
I dropped mine on concrete just because it slipped out of the dock (for which I *now* put a piece of velcro on the back in the case to keep it still). I opened up the device and took it apart but since I'm not as savvy as many with taking the digitizer apart, I just bought a new one on eBay for about $50 without the dock. You *could* get a new digitizer and equipment to install it (or even just buy a new face with the LCD and glass already around it, but for an extra $20 or so, you could just have a used phone which would work without the hassle. But IF it' in the dock, just keep it in the dock.
I have a screen protector on mine and the real screen is cracked but not having any issues. Try adding a screen protector