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My battery has gone to hell. After getting it down to 5% one day, it just would not hold a charge long. Then I got it down to 10% a week later, and it really got bad. Life is about 1/3 what it used to be. I also have some dust and even small hairs or flecks in the screen.
So...I ordered a new advance replacement unit from T-Mobile, and it just arrived. Simple enough? Well, I have the memory upgrade in mine, so I need to do some component swapping. What's the best way to go about this? What parts can be disconnected easily (or more importantly, reconnected)? Where is the damn battery (didn't see it in the disassembly photos on the site)?
Hi,
Carlos said:
So...I ordered a new advance replacement unit from T-Mobile, and it just arrived. Simple enough? Well, I have the memory upgrade in mine, so I need to do some component swapping. What's the best way to go about this? What parts can be disconnected easily (or more importantly, reconnected)? Where is the damn battery (didn't see it in the disassembly photos on the site)?
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Please specify 'component swapping' in more detail... Are you actually thinking about swapping the memory upgrade??? You do know that that would mean desoldering the 2 big memory chips on both boards, cleaning them and the boards, and soldering them back... How good are you at smd soldering??? We haven't dared doing that, yet... (some pics of upgrading memory of an iPaq are available at http://www.linearlogix.com/ipaq/upgradereview.html
There are commercial services doing the upgrade (32 -> 64 mb), if I were you I'd contact one of those.
Other than that, we're currently swapping lcd screens, touchpanels, mainboards from 3 broken units to create 2 working units and 1 very broken one. So, what do you need to know exactly?
BTW, the battery is stuck on the inside of the back cover.
XDA developer bigmac (taking pictures of the open units right now...)
No, no, I can solder normal stuff, but not that. I mean, I assume what I need to do is keep my own motherboard. I'd like the screen, case, and battery from the new unit. On the radio section, I suppose it doesn't matter either way. So I incorrectly said "component" when what I really meant was "board," and desired advice on doing that.
The hazards of posting in the middle of the night after too much work.
Carlos said:
No, no, I can solder normal stuff, but not that. I mean, I assume what I need to do is keep my own motherboard. I'd like the screen, case, and battery from the new unit. On the radio section, I suppose it doesn't matter either way. So I incorrectly said "component" when what I really meant was "board," and desired advice on doing that.
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Ok, so you want to use the screen/touchpanel/backlight assembly from the new one (smart move, not taking that apart; besides the fact that it's glued together and you need to separate it on the correct separation, that also leaves the risk of forgetting the correct orientation of the glass panel with little dots on it, used to distribute the backlight evently onto the lcd; and, there are slightly different assemblies out there which need slightly different panels...). You should keep all boards from the old unit (old mainboard including old radio unit, use the new screen/touchpanel/backlight assemly, and the new case (which includes the new battery).
You could consider swapping IMEI numbers on the units... Although _shops_ never register the numbers when they give out units, service departments might. You know where to find the tool to do that...
The screwing around of the parts should not take more than half an hour if it's the first time you take apart this unit (but have taken apart small electronics before) and less if you've done it before.
Beware of the really thin clear plastic rings used under the screws to screw down the display...
We won't be publishing a very detailed 'how to swap your screen' instruction any time soon but do have some raw unedited pictures of the operation. I'll see if we can get them online any time soon.
Have fun,
XDA developer bigmac
I ended up doing the change and ran into a snag--the plastic pin that sticks out of the top power button was loose or broken (probably happened in one of the many drops the unit has experienced). When I opened the case, I lost that. Had to send it to PPC Techs to have them solder in a new power switch.
Other than that, disassembly is pretty easy and straightforward. You mentioned you won't publish a how-to...is that because of not wanting to have it on the site, or that nobody wants to write one? If the latter, I'd be happy to write it up and include my detailed pics.
If you want to make a detailed howto on how to open and close the unit, and how to exchange certain parts, we will gladly put it on!
Do make sure to stress that people need a certain level of experience or be willing to risk losing the device though...
So, I've been spending the better part of an hour scouring over the Anandtech teardown gallery of the prime trying to get a decent understanding of the GPS/WiFi antennas and the underlying design flaws which contribute to these features messing up; namely the giant metal shield of a cover and the placement of the antennas. They're not exactly in a bad place, but I guess Asus assumed that if you were using WiFi/GPS with your tablet then you would always do so with the screen facing the AP/satellites. In reality, mine at least, it's the back of the device generally pointing to these things. Maybe I place my network hubs in strange places and enjoy astronomy apps too much?
Now on to the actual question, especially to any of you who have gotten the device and been brave enough to peek inside it yourself; would creating my own plastic windows/metal grates within the aluminum backing actually help anything? Do these antennas broadcast a 360 degree signal or are they directional? The motherboard itself would allow decent signal to get to the transmitter wouldn't it, so long as the case does?
My order isn't set to ship for another month, but I think I'll be getting this tablet regardless of the known issues, though the audio/video problems with the miniHDMI port make me a bit nervous. This thing will still be a power-house even as better spec'd tablets come out, just like my single-core Desire Z is still pretty relevant and decent. Just not top-of-the-line, and it wasn't for any real amount of time, but that's just how these things go.
Ideally, the antenna would couple to the whole backplate, making a big slot antenna (but then it starts to risk being too directional). It's just as probably that the issue is noise or feeble pogo-pin connectors.
If you do make a cut-out, it needs to be about 1 wavelength larger than the outline of the antenna (and you risk de-tuning the antenna if it was designed to operate in close proximity to a groundplane)
tshoulihane said:
Ideally, the antenna would couple to the whole backplate, making a big slot antenna (but then it starts to risk being too directional). It's just as probably that the issue is noise or feeble pogo-pin connectors.
If you do make a cut-out, it needs to be about 1 wavelength larger than the outline of the antenna (and you risk de-tuning the antenna if it was designed to operate in close proximity to a groundplane)
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Coupling to the backplate, though increasing power decreases accuracy doesn't it?
I hadn't thought of the pogo-pins as a possible culprit, that's certainly possible.
Couldn't I make a couple windows and retro-fit either some plastic or plexi-glass into the design? Would that help keep from de-tuning, especially if kept to a small size with accurate positioning?
Thank you for the response, I know nothing of the finer details on GPS and other wireless signals.
*Edit: After re-reading and thinking, I actually understand what you're saying. Plastic or no, any cutout would need to be a very specific size larger than the antenna itself which would take more than I would be able to do I'm sure. Oh well, I know I'll still love this thing, so long as the miniHDMI works properly, I'll be happy. Phone's GPS works like a dream.
And now I apologize. I found it odd not finding topics on this, but now I've found them and have a bit more of an understanding on the matter. Namely that the cpu seems to have a strong possibility of creating interference for the chip. The casing apparently just worsens the issue.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
buxtahuda said:
And now I apologize. I found it odd not finding topics on this, but now I've found them and have a bit more of an understanding on the matter. Namely that the cpu seems to have a strong possibility of creating interference for the chip. The casing apparently just worsens the issue.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
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How sure are we about this? I've read that Apple puts their WiFi antenna behind the black plastic logo on their WiFi-only models for exactly this reason. Not only that, but on the 3g models they simply have all the wireless modules placed on top of the device where they are covered with black plastic as well.
It seems to me that a stupid plastic apple cutout - a complex geometric shape - is not likely capable of being as "tuned" as a rectangular cutout. Yet, I think it's safe to say that the 3G and WiFi versions of the iPad have similar if not identical WiFi performance. That is to say, I don't think manufactures are using the aluminum back for anything other than looking pretty. I think it's safe to hack away at.
Thoughts?
JazzMac251 said:
I don't think manufactures are using the aluminum back for anything other than looking pretty.
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Maybe for some heat dispersion too?
I wish they would start selling the back plate only (like they do with ipods etc)
That way i'm sure someone could cutout a shape and try the antenna behind a plastic window etc, but youd always have the option to put the original back.
I wouldnt mind modding mine after the garantee has ran out.
I think Asus might consider making an after-market backplate that they would fit to your Prime after they have fully tested the issues.
Docaroo said:
I think Asus might consider making an after-market backplate that they would fit to your Prime after they have fully tested the issues.
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I've been thinking that even if Asus didn't some third party will. And I'm willing to get to cutting the day it arrives if I can determine it'll help. However, I don't want just an open grate for dust and junk to get into. Maybe just a thin fabric filter, or should I close it up with some plastic/plexiglass and epoxy?
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
buxtahuda said:
I've been thinking that even if Asus didn't some third party will. And I'm willing to get to cutting the day it arrives if I can determine it'll help. However, I don't want just an open grate for dust and junk to get into. Maybe just a thin fabric filter, or should I close it up with some plastic/plexiglass and epoxy?
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
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I don't see why plastic wouldn't work. It's what the iPad has and it seems to work out in that case.
You should consider cross-posting this in the "General" forum. It is a "question", but the General forum gets a LOT more eyeballs.
JazzMac251 said:
I don't see why plastic wouldn't work. It's what the iPad has and it seems to work out in that case.
You should consider cross-posting this in the "General" forum. It is a "question", but the General forum gets a LOT more eyeballs.
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i agree, this post should be on general... this would be a great solution, a homemade plastic ipad-like hole... we need it, and if third party doesnt do this, we will have to do it...
well, but anyone tested the device without the case to see the real power of the wifi-gps-bt ?
Yakandu said:
i agree, this post should be on general... this would be a great solution, a homemade plastic ipad-like hole... we need it, and if third party doesnt do this, we will have to do it...
well, but anyone tested the device without the case to see the real power of the wifi-gps-bt ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will be, but it's still a good two-four weeks before I have mine. All mentions of it I've seen in general never get answered, I haven't seen anyone comment on whether or not they've tried without the backing. Probably because most aren't willing to try and heat up the glue to do so or damage the thing in the process...
Some expertise required
Does the aluminium back plate attenuate both wifi and gps signals? From what I have read it seems to be confirmed that this is the situation, although other factors such as internal interference have NOT been discounted, nor has the connection method (gold pogo pin) between motherboard and the antennae (blackened out pcb strip). I have noted on the TF101 Transformer teardown, a very similar placement of both WIFI and GPS antennae to that on the TF201 Transformer Prime - near the top edge and adjacent each other. Looking at similarities between models, an obvious and perhaps too simple explination would be the aluminium back plate. There does seem to be some interest in experimenting with making some holes (similar to the speaker grill), on the back plate in front of the antennae in the hope that it MAY improve reception. I have read numerous posts and was hoping that someone may have tried this. I don't want to hear about the merits of having or not having a GPS and how it matters to them personaly etc - lets focus people, but whether someone has had the ability and knowledge to try it. I am unsure given the wavelength of both GPS and WIFI (1.2 / 1.5 Ghz) whether mutliple small holes would do it. I feel that a transparent plastic window may be required. I do not believe the back plate is used a coupled ground plate etc. and it is used purely as the chasis. Come on - there has to be some smart engineering graduates/professionals who are willing to give this a go...it would have been nice if they were paid by ASUS but that seems unlikely. Point to note - that the GPS and WIFI antennas (there are two for the WIFI on the TF201) would be obtaining some reception through the front gorilla glass and plastic (on which the antennae are mounted). My question is - what and IF modifications are necessary to the back plate to obtain better reception. Any ideas?
I have not seen a single test where anyone proved it was the back plate. Anyone have a link to a test that shows the prime navigating successfully without the back plate?
I have a very specific question with regards to replacing the charging port on the i777. I have searched threads discussing charging port replacement, but was unable to find anything about this specific issue. I am currently going through my first repair on my i777 that needs a new charging port. I bought the replacement on ebay, but something stood out once I compared it to the original charging port I took out. On the original there is a small rubber piece hanging down (around where the screw holes are). On the replacement piece it's just a metal piece hanging down in the same place. Do I need to have that rubber piece on the replacement charging port? Would it even affect the functionality of the phone? Is there a way to take the rubber piece off the original and transfer it to the replacement, or should I just buy one with the rubber piece on? If someone has asked this question already forgive me, but I did not see it in the thread I skimmed through.
Here is a pic of both them side by side. The top one is the original and the bottom is the replacement I got from ebay.
farm8.staticflickr (.com) /7281/9735538853_4e701482f8_o (.jpg)
It would not let me post link yet so just remove parentesis and spaces to view picture link.
That gray part is for waterproofing the microphone I believe. It just slides off of the old part and onto the new one, just be careful. Also if you have no signal, by now you may have already found the following thread. I had to do this a couple of weeks ago to get a signal: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1950114&page=5 I'll try harder to match up the part numbers next time!
iXNyNe, please let us know if the newegg part works, or if you end up needing to modify it (see link in above post), or purchase another.
iXNyNe said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2C51D87922 just ordered this. [...]
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cyril279 said:
iXNyNe, please let us know if the newegg part works, or if you end up needing to modify it (see link in above post), or purchase another.
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Click to collapse
i'll report back once i have them
i already took the phone apart just to peek around inside, the part looks just like what's already there. the picture shows some teal/aqua colored tabs towards the bottom, im assuming these are peel off for an adhesive (there did seem to be an adhesive holding the part in place).
based on that link mentioned i would say that cutting is a little extreme, it looks like they cut the board in half, which is definitely NOT how it comes stock.
again i'll report back once i've got the chips. and for under $8 with free shipping i cant really complain even if they dont work out.
The only thing you're actually cutting (electronically) is the ground plane of the board shared by the antenna/radio and the charge port. In short, there's a super low risk of messing anything up, unless you use a sawzall to complete the job.
I assume that it was more cost effective for Samsung to put those items on the same board, but it's a punk move to attach a known replacement part to an antenna that varies by region. Either way, I'm glad to know that the hack is an option but I'd be happier to know that the hack isn't necessary.
iXNyNe said:
i'll report back once i have them
i already took the phone apart just to peek around inside, the part looks just like what's already there. the picture shows some teal/aqua colored tabs towards the bottom, im assuming these are peel off for an adhesive (there did seem to be an adhesive holding the part in place).
based on that link mentioned i would say that cutting is a little extreme, it looks like they cut the board in half, which is definitely NOT how it comes stock.
again i'll report back once i've got the chips. and for under $8 with free shipping i cant really complain even if they dont work out.
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Just wanted to report success. The part from new egg worked and was really easy to swap.
I don't have the right size sim card anymore since switching my primary carry, so I can't test reception, but otherwise everything is working (charging, wifi, Bluetooth, etc)
P.s. I did not modify the item I received (no cutting) and it is a 2.3 where the original I removed was a 2.2. I've saved the 2.2 just in case something comes up.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Thanks, but I'm afraid that we won't know whether the replacement part is a proper replacement until there is a sim-card involved. Reception is the rub (see post below from the board-mod thread).
underhuggare said:
[...]I also replaced the original rev 2.2 with rev 2.3 which fixed the usb port but gave me very unstable and poor reception. [...]
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iXNyNe said:
Just wanted to report success. The part from new egg worked and was really easy to swap.
I don't have the right size sim card anymore since switching my primary carry, so I can't test reception, but otherwise everything is working (charging, wifi, Bluetooth, etc)
P.s. I did not modify the item I received (no cutting) and it is a 2.3 where the original I removed was a 2.2. I've saved the 2.2 just in case something comes up.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
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cyril279 said:
Thanks, but I'm afraid that we won't know whether the replacement part is a proper replacement until there is a sim-card involved. Reception is the rub (see post below from the board-mod thread).
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I'll see if I can find a friend with a full size Sim over the next few days and test the reliability. But honestly I'd have to it may be better for people to find a rev 2.2
But for anyone who no longer uses the phone for cell service, the new egg part works great for a cheap and easy charge port replacement.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
So I recently discovered that the Rezound (and other phones) receive signal through the battery door. I did not previously know this. I was wondering if anyone had any information on how this works. The reason I want to know is because I am in a VERY low service area, and if I stand in certain areas or at a certain angle in my house, I can get service enough to make calls and send texts, but just the slightest move can ruin it. I know all about the Network Extenders and Boosters and all the external hardware you can obtain to help this problem, but I was thinking of a more direct way that one might possibly increase their signal.
What I was thinking is that old cell phones have antennas, right? So if the Rezound (and other smartphones) use a similar or at least some kind of antenna system (such as through the door of the phone) then maybe one could use a wire and rig it to attach to the door to increase signal.
I wanted to try poking a hole big enough to fit a small wire through the top of the door, but small enough to not be noticed, and then try and attach the wire to one of the pieces of the door that grabs the signal. I want to be able to remove it if I want to, but I would figure out how to do that part on my own.
I basically just want to know what part of the door is giving my phone its signal. I see that the door has what look like metal plates on it and I am guessing those have something to do with it.
Can someone give me a little more info on how this works so I can try to figure something out for myself?
Thanks a ton!
Btw I realize doing something like this (even if it worked) will increase the signal very insignificantly, but I figure that it might be kind of fun to at least try and see what happens.
TyWillems19 said:
So I recently discovered that the Rezound (and other phones) receive signal through the battery door. I did not previously know this. I was wondering if anyone had any information on how this works. The reason I want to know is because I am in a VERY low service area, and if I stand in certain areas or at a certain angle in my house, I can get service enough to make calls and send texts, but just the slightest move can ruin it. I know all about the Network Extenders and Boosters and all the external hardware you can obtain to help this problem, but I was thinking of a more direct way that one might possibly increase their signal.
What I was thinking is that old cell phones have antennas, right? So if the Rezound (and other smartphones) use a similar or at least some kind of antenna system (such as through the door of the phone) then maybe one could use a wire and rig it to attach to the door to increase signal.
I wanted to try poking a hole big enough to fit a small wire through the top of the door, but small enough to not be noticed, and then try and attach the wire to one of the pieces of the door that grabs the signal. I want to be able to remove it if I want to, but I would figure out how to do that part on my own.
I basically just want to know what part of the door is giving my phone its signal. I see that the door has what look like metal plates on it and I am guessing those have something to do with it.
Can someone give me a little more info on how this works so I can try to figure something out for myself?
Thanks a ton!
Btw I realize doing something like this (even if it worked) will increase the signal very insignificantly, but I figure that it might be kind of fun to at least try and see what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Antennas are very complicated....a wire really wont help you....if you can pick some up id get paint with a hight metal content of gold or copper...prefferably gold...and go over where the copper paint already is...thats the antenna and a slight elongation of the paints design can cause alot of issues....ive tried aluminum tape and it really didnt do much justice in signal...i tried gold content paint as i had some laying around and had great sucess....although the cost would be just as much as building your own signal booster antenna....which i can dig up the guides for you on that as well
REV3NT3CH said:
Antennas are very complicated....a wire really wont help you....if you can pick some up id get paint with a hight metal content of gold or copper...prefferably gold...and go over where the copper paint already is...thats the antenna and a slight elongation of the paints design can cause alot of issues....ive tried aluminum tape and it really didnt do much justice in signal...i tried gold content paint as i had some laying around and had great sucess....although the cost would be just as much as building your own signal booster antenna....which i can dig up the guides for you on that as well
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Click to collapse
Hey thank you for the reply!
I would love the guides to making a booster. That will probably help me out.
Do you think if I got a copper wire, like the copper side of a speaker wire, I could strip it and close the door down onto it with the top sticking out? I mean, like I said before, I don't think the signal would be increased drastically at all, but could this help?
The gold paint you mean, is there an alternative or a cheap method of doing something like that besides what you had mentioned?
Thanks again.
TyWillems19 said:
Hey thank you for the reply!
I would love the guides to making a booster. That will probably help me out.
Do you think if I got a copper wire, like the copper side of a speaker wire, I could strip it and close the door down onto it with the top sticking out? I mean, like I said before, I don't think the signal would be increased drastically at all, but could this help?
The gold paint you mean, is there an alternative or a cheap method of doing something like that besides what you had mentioned?
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no....they have to match the antenna design thats already there....like i said you can use a better copper paint which is cheaper than gold but gold is much better because of how well it can conduct...sticking a wire in it will proobably give you even worse signal than what you have...the signal booster will still run you a little bit of cash and requires a little bit of knowledge to do so...guides can only go so far sometimes...and unlike old school fliphones or old brick phones with antennas the ones is this phone are designed and programmed a very certain way and is complex...hence why your best bet would be a signal booster...let me google around for the right guide and ill get back to you
REV3NT3CH said:
no....they have to match the antenna design thats already there....like i said you can use a better copper paint which is cheaper than gold but gold is much better because of how well it can conduct...sticking a wire in it will proobably give you even worse signal than what you have...the signal booster will still run you a little bit of cash and requires a little bit of knowledge to do so...guides can only go so far sometimes...and unlike old school fliphones or old brick phones with antennas the ones is this phone are designed and programmed a very certain way and is complex...hence why your best bet would be a signal booster...let me google around for the right guide and ill get back to you
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About how much would the booster cost, and it'd work with other phones in the house too? Service is spotty in our house too for some of the phones.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
jagrave said:
About how much would the booster cost, and it'd work with other phones in the house too? Service is spotty in our house too for some of the phones.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
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you can buy one outright for around $150 or make one for about $50 to $75....also depends on if you want one band repeated or up to 3 bands...rezound on verizon only uses 2 though....and yes it will work for any phone that uses that band and or carrier...the cheaper alternative is the paint...which runs about $30 for the gold or $15 to $20 for the copper
Heck, I would really love a signal booster. I usually have one bar of signal, and I can't ever call or text out here
Sent from my Rezound using Tapatalk
tmanschuette said:
Heck, I would really love a signal booster. I usually have one bar of signal, and I can't ever call or text out here
Sent from my Rezound using Tapatalk
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when i lived in the woodland areas of massachussets i had to try whatever i could for better signal...im looking for a good thorough guide on building one but not having much luck....may just write my own as i know how and whats needed
Right? I have to drive to the end of the street to make a call. We live in a valley in the middle of Nm, so the mountains don't help.
Sent from my Rezound using Tapatalk
So my Z5C slid off the table and barely struck something not even that hard but apparently at exactly the wrong angle and now the screen is broken. There is a huge broken part on the top going all the way across (and a few more spider veins outside the used area) and the bottom half of the touchscreen just plain does not work. I contacted SONY to ask what it would cost to repair and, while the response was a bit confusing (English as a second language I guess) they basically stated that they would not do even a paid repair of a broken screen on a Z5C apparently. I was told to find a third party to repair it. I have exactly zero confidence in doing a repair myself (for starters, I guess this means the digitizer is broken since the bottom half of the screen does not work and I've always heard those are a PITA to replace but also whenever I replaced the back on my Z3C it would inevitably come loose again and the last thing in the world I want is for the screen to be falling off all the time.)
So basically I need to at least find out how much it would cost. Preferably I'd like to find a local place too so I can just bring it in when I get up the money to actually do it. But I have no idea how even to find them. And they couldn't tell me anything (no officially licensed repair shops or anything like that.) The fact is, I don't even know what to look for to find someone at least semi-reputable. And once again, the last thing in the world I want is for my screen to start falling off the way all those Z3C backs did.
Also, by any chance would anyone have even just a rough idea how much it would cost? Obviously if it ends up being more than the cost of buying a new Z5C on eBay it would make more sense to do that (whenever I can afford it anyway, but geez.)
Nazo said:
So my Z5C slid off the table and barely struck something not even that hard but apparently at exactly the wrong angle and now the screen is broken. There is a huge broken part on the top going all the way across (and a few more spider veins outside the used area) and the bottom half of the touchscreen just plain does not work. I contacted SONY to ask what it would cost to repair and, while the response was a bit confusing (English as a second language I guess) they basically stated that they would not do even a paid repair of a broken screen on a Z5C apparently. I was told to find a third party to repair it. I have exactly zero confidence in doing a repair myself (for starters, I guess this means the digitizer is broken since the bottom half of the screen does not work and I've always heard those are a PITA to replace but also whenever I replaced the back on my Z3C it would inevitably come loose again and the last thing in the world I want is for the screen to be falling off all the time.)
So basically I need to at least find out how much it would cost. Preferably I'd like to find a local place too so I can just bring it in when I get up the money to actually do it. But I have no idea how even to find them. And they couldn't tell me anything (no officially licensed repair shops or anything like that.) The fact is, I don't even know what to look for to find someone at least semi-reputable. And once again, the last thing in the world I want is for my screen to start falling off the way all those Z3C backs did.
Also, by any chance would anyone have even just a rough idea how much it would cost? Obviously if it ends up being more than the cost of buying a new Z5C on eBay it would make more sense to do that (whenever I can afford it anyway, but geez.)
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I bought a complete screen including the frame for 29 euros. You can do it using the tutorials on youtube. Its easy.
That literally was not my question.
Anyway, probably it would end up costing so much as to not be worth it. For now I'll probably have to count on just buying a new one whenever I can (well, that will be a while.)
BTW, in retrospect I suspect mine was actually a refurb after one such repair incorrectly sold as "new." The screen was kind of loose when I got it and never sat completely flat. Honestly I should have sent it straight back. Looking over it I suspect now that this is the reason it broke so thoroughly so easily from a very light drop off of a table (not even human height.) Because the screen wasn't sitting right that part was especially vulnerable and weaker and I notice that the line that went across went to the point where it was sticking up the most excessively. Ironically the screen now sits completely flat where it would not before after this break (which it shouldn't do if it were simply loose.) So this is part of the reason I'm not exactly super excited about the idea of repairs. I know from first-hand experience just simply trying to make a back stay on that the end result rarely can match the proper quality level and the screen is even more important. It has become a bit of a point of obsession for me probably because I've replaced the back so many times on my Z3C I've lost count and every single time it came loose again before eventually breaking. (At this point my Z3C back is a bunch of tape. I can't protect the camera because it needs something super clear sticking out a bit to allow it to move outward, so eventually it will probably get enough dust inside to break or something.)
Anyway, I have no desire to discuss trying to repair it myself. I was thinking maybe a professional can do better, but honestly the more I think about it the more I think I'd rather just save up and buy a new one. (I can get one for around $150 on eBay if I don't mind waiting a full month for shipping. My suspicion is that's actually not that much more than the repair cost if you add labor anyway.)