As you can see on the attched image, the original cradle from Huami has some electronic components inside.
I would assume that GND, D+ and D- are connected directly while +5V is switched via transistor Q2.
There are two transistors, a z-diode and four resistors on the board which i think is an overvoltage protection that probably didn't fit inside the watch or was added afterwards.
I wonder if these components are also in the cheap cradles you get on Ebay or Aliexpress. Does anyone have one of these and already opened them?
I'm also interested in the answer.
Amazfit charger
Beleriand said:
As you can see on the attched image, the original cradle from Huami has some electronic components inside.
I would assume that GND, D+ and D- are connected directly while +5V is switched via transistor Q2.
There are two transistors, a z-diode and four resistors on the board which i think is an overvoltage protection that probably didn't fit inside the watch or was added afterwards.
I wonder if these components are also in the cheap cradles you get on Ebay or Aliexpress. Does anyone have one of these and already opened them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, i have buy a charger on gearbest, the same as Aliexpress, and no electronics components Inside. The 4 cable arrive directly on the 4 springs pin ...
I will see the circuit in the original charger to understand, and add myself components on the gearbest charger ... or not ...
Related
Looks like others have found the docking connector used on the TF. Has anyone tried getting the connectors to make a simple DIY charge plug? I know just getting a universal 11V+ adapter is like 10$. With a little solder one could have a much cheaper charger for home.
Any info on which pins on the connector are for power? I am ordering some samples of the connectors just to see if its possible.
Please check this post "DIY TF101 charger and other charging methods" by Devcake for all the information you will need for your project.
hshoem1
Hey all,
I have tried powering my dock with the Samsung wall charger (The square black one) that came with the phone, if I direct connect the USB cable to my phone, it fast charges but if I connect via my Hyperion dock it slow charges.
Before I start damaging the dock, is there a way to force fast charging without shorting pins?
Thanks!
It might be the pin configuration in the dock considering it has to also double as a USB dock....
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
Tried 2 different power sources. The OE that shipped that states 1.5A and an HP Touchpad one that states 2.0A. Plugged directly into the phone, the Hyperion only sends 453mah whereas the HP sends 1003mah of charge. Plugged both into the dock and the 453 is what comes out to the phone. Even while charging the extra battery only 453mah output. So it seems like the dock is to blame.... :-(
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
The easiest way to do what you want without making a change in your docking is to get one of those short usb standard jack to standard socket. They are like a little extension that mainly come bundled with thumbdrives so they are easy to connect to crammed USB ports. You can open that extension (don't snip it) along the cable to exposed d the inside conductor wires. You will have 5 conductors, the shield (either a silver braided sleeve or a plastic like silver sleeve), red (+5), black (volt gnd), green (-data) and white (+data) (sometimes they replace the white for yellow). After exposing the conductors peel a little bit of the two data cables, short them together (don't snip them), put some black electrical tape around them to shield them then do the same for the larger cut you did. When you connect this cable to your charger then to the docking the two data cables short will signal the phone to go on fast charging. Make sure you do have a charger rated for at least 1.5 amps. Don't use this cable if you are doing anything that requires communication with the phone as this will not allow any data to flow to the phone. Use only when fast charging is required.
Fernandq said:
You can open that extension (don't snip it) along the cable to exposed d the inside conductor wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can also look for a USB cable that has tabs holding the connector ends together. These are easier to work with, even if you're using a micro-USB cable. Pop the tabs with a needle and separate the two halfs of the plastic casing. The wires are already separated and soldered to the connector. You can short the wires there and reconnect the two plastic halfs.
Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Given the Gear S w/ cradle only has 300mah + 300mah battery to charge, any cell phone charger with microUSB will work. Even a PC USB port should work. I didn't even bother take the original AC charger out of the box. Using my alarm clock's USB port for charging every day even when it is totally dead without problem. So, anything with a USB port will work. You don't need to buy the original AC adapter.
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
You guys got a charging cord and adapter?
BAD ASS NOTE 4 + BAD ASS GEAR S
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
alanshortt said:
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. USB chargers output the same voltage (5V) and varies in current output capability. The adapter won't/can't output more current than the other end (your cradle) requested for. The only time it won't work is if your device need more amperage for charging and the adapter can't supply that much, e.g. a lot of cell phones requires 1000+ ma of amperage for charging but a lot of generic USB chargers can only output 500ma. This results in not able to charge when battery is almost dead.
As mentioned above, the watch has a tiny battery and only requires very little current for charging.
The official AC adapter for watch is labeled 5V 700ma.
Foxbat thx to the answers!
psicolizzard said:
Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wall wart for the Gear S says 5vdc at 0.7 amps. I have used other chargers though, computer usb comes to mind, just use a usb to micro usb cable.
I have a meter, and can check the pins for power on the cradle, if that would help.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using XDA Free mobile app
drjosephkim said:
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
chemman said:
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
calinormy said:
Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As this thread helped me when I missed my cradle for charging, I uploaded a photo for clarification.
The pads at the back of the watch are counted 12345 from left to rigth when holding the watch with SAMSUNG bottom side and SIM card slot on top. See attached jpg.
To avoid electrical damage to the watch, I put some transparent tape over the pads first. Then I carefully scratched little holes through the tape for pad 2 and 5.
Then I was able to charge the Gear S just with holding red and black wires from an old cutted USB cable on these pads (black 2 and red 5).
Next step would be to find a clever way for fixing the tiny wires on these micro pad spots while charging.
I tried with a clothespin and it took ages until it finally stayed fixed. Had to take watch out of the wrist band for this.
Fixing with tape didn't work at all.
Chears, Ulle
You guys mention "mini USB" on the charger cable. My Gear Fit2 came with the cradle hard wired and USB plug in. Are there various charge cradle options for the Fit2?
Pins pictures.
Calinormy you saved my gear S thanks.
Advice #1: not all USB A to USB C cables can be used with all USB chargers - use with caution!
Especially with PC's, laptops and in-car systems!!
Sorry if this is old news for everybody, but it was news to me!
With USB A to USB B, if the charger / USB port was only capable of 0.5A or 1A, the charger would just trickle along at whatever it could provide... USB C is very different, will just pull WHATEVER it can, as fast as it can.
According to the USB-C spec, there is a 56k ohm resistor fitted to the cable to prevent excessive current being drawn. Some cables have no resistor / insufficient resistance (e.g. 10k ohm) / incorrect wiring - all of which has the same net result - lack of control on the charging.
Through some semi-painful experience, I now know that the OEM LGE USB A to USB C cable that came with my G5* does NOT have the resistor that signals the device not to try to draw too much current: after a few minutes of charging with my OEM Samsung S5 charger, despite being a 2A charger, it got very warm and went "pop".
*LG G5 H850, fully sealed, from the Vodafone shop in Canary Wharf (London).
There's an app for that: Almost - It seems that there is a decent app (CheckR), but it is VERY explicitly for the Nexus 5X and Pixel-C devices that links into the Nexus Kernel and allows it to query if the cable you're using is going to throttle the voltage to the charger's max or if it will burn it out.
Does anybody know if there an alternative app that does the same for the LG G5?
Where to get USB cables?!? According to the press (UK Guardian Newspaper) all the Amazon USB-C kit is tested for this resistor - presumably so Amazon don't get sued for causing any fires when USB chargers blow up, burning out the USB circuits on your in-car multimedia system / laptop / PC.
I'm assuming other manufacturers / retailers are catching on and will start to publish their cable specs more clearly, but for the time being, even the OEM USB cable will potentially break any old chargers.... and more importantly laptops, PC's and in-car infotainment systems!
Look for reviews from Google Engineer Benson Leung on Amazon. He tests the explicit performance of the cables (including the presence of the resistor). If he gives it 5 stars you know that the cable will work properly. He has tested dozens, if not hundreds of cables.
If Amazon finds a faulty product they will pull it, but first that product has to be found ot be faulty. They are not checking the inventory themselves. This is why Benson Leung's reviews are so important.
well since you did not post the link i'll do it now:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/pdp/profile/A25GROL6KJV3QG
if you are from a different country just look for the same cables on your local amazon.
i bought four of theese: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHKYIRS
to awaken my micro usb cables back to life.
does its job and will work with quick charge 3 aswell
Hello,
my original charging adapter for Redmi Note 4 broke (the connector inside is moved up by few milimeters and I cant reseat it), so I'm looking for a replacement charging adapter.
Should I order one of the Xiaomi adapters from alixpress or can I use any 2A/5V charging adapter? And is it safe to use?
Any charger will do as long as it has 5V/2A. Just make sure to buy a brand which is known, like BlitzWolf.
Those really cheap chargers can fry your phone.
Thank you, could you maybe point me to any specific models on amazon or ebay (DE or UK) ?
This one would be more than enough:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B014QKKOQE/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1