Hi,
My friend gave me his Honor 9 which was damaged by water (snow).
Phone was dead but after cleaning it and drying and connecting to USB I can see blue LED lit where the earpiece is. The battery is dead. Now: is there any hope for the phone, maybe connecting new battery could bring it to life? I'm not sure if I should spend more time playing with it.
Some additional info: when connected to USB it draws 180 mA, trying to power it through battery connector doesn't do anything. When power button is pressed for ~8 seconds current slightly increases (0,5 s) then goes back to 180 mA - I suspect the reset circuitry or even CPU is alive. LCD is not showing anything. Telephone is not detected on USB port.
Thanks for any tips.
L.
No hope!
Unfortunately no
oifjasofhoiadfkjhkdfhhhhd said:
Hi,
My friend gave me his Honor 9 which was damaged by water (snow).
Phone was dead but after cleaning it and drying and connecting to USB I can see blue LED lit where the earpiece is. The battery is dead. Now: is there any hope for the phone, maybe connecting new battery could bring it to life? I'm not sure if I should spend more time playing with it.
Some additional info: when connected to USB it draws 180 mA, trying to power it through battery connector doesn't do anything. When power button is pressed for ~8 seconds current slightly increases (0,5 s) then goes back to 180 mA - I suspect the reset circuitry or even CPU is alive. LCD is not showing anything. Telephone is not detected on USB port.
Thanks for any tips.
L.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is none unfortunately..
Related
This is what i have.
Galaxy Tab 2 GT P5110 No power. and no signs life at all..
This is what i tried.
1. Left charging over night with a different charger that i know for a fact works.
2. Tried all combination of button presses. Power 15 sec, 30 sec. Power + touching screen 30 sec. Power + vol up. power +vol down. etc.
3. Replaced P5110 logic board with P5113.
4. Left all components unplugged with the exception of battery, power ribbon, lcd and digitizer ribbon.
None of these made a difference.
What can i try next? When i plug it in to charge, no light comes on. Should there be a light on the tablet if charging? or maybe a battery indicator on the screen? I'm trying to rule out the power button. The next possible solution for me would be the battery or the battery charge port. Any ways to troubleshoot any of these two?!
thanks
elchochito said:
This is what i have.
Galaxy Tab 2 GT P5110 No power. and no signs life at all..
This is what i tried.
1. Left charging over night with a different charger that i know for a fact works.
2. Tried all combination of button presses. Power 15 sec, 30 sec. Power + touching screen 30 sec. Power + vol up. power +vol down. etc.
3. Replaced P5110 logic board with P5113.
4. Left all components unplugged with the exception of battery, power ribbon, lcd and digitizer ribbon.
None of these made a difference.
What can i try next? When i plug it in to charge, no light comes on. Should there be a light on the tablet if charging? or maybe a battery indicator on the screen? I'm trying to rule out the power button. The next possible solution for me would be the battery or the battery charge port. Any ways to troubleshoot any of these two?!
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know if you got it already, but here's servicemanual with troubleshooting and schematics. View attachment GT-P5110-Servicemanual.zip
tys0n said:
Don't know if you got it already, but here's servicemanual with troubleshooting and schematics. View attachment 2264350
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much.. that service manual will definitely come in handy.
Last night i went to my cousins house since he had two P5113 models that were awaiting screens for replacement (he works at a rental center). I tried one of his batteries and it fired up right away. Long story short, it ended up being the dock ribbon cable. I tried one of his, and it started charging my battery! lesson learned.. ha...
Thank you.
From reading your post I was thinking about a faulty battery, but good you found out the problem
Sent through time and space from my s3mini/CM10.1
You told that you have replaced the PCB with one from the P5113.
So I guess they are compatible? Can I replace a P5110 with this board?
Battery Open circuit - Boost Method
This happened to me recently.
I left my tab discharge for a very long time. All the basic things wouldn't get the device to start charging again.
I checked the battery voltage and found that the battery had gone open circuit. This is a mechanism of the battery protection IC to protect against extreme discharge of the Li-Ion battery. My device was unable to wake the battery from this state - I guess that this is very bad design on Samsung's part.
To get around this do the following:
1. make sure that your battery is disconnected from the main circuit board.
2. get/ borrow/ steal a constant-current constant-voltage variable PSU.
3. set the PSU up at 4.2v with the current limited at 200mA
4. attach the leads to the battery and turn it on. ( red to red and black to black ! this can be done with small clips or multi meter probes )
5. wait for the battery voltage to rise from < 2.7v to around 3.6v.
6. disconnect the leads and re-attach the battery to the main circuit board.
7. before you package everything up connect you charger and turn the device on with the power button.
note: you don't have to complete #5, as long as the voltage raises to > 3.3v should be enough to stop the protection IC from defaulting back to protect mode and allow charging via the normal method.
This was very annoying for me, luckily I know a couple of things about how these systems work. If I didn't someone would have made a load of money out of me or the device would have ended up in the bin.
This is a general solution to problems of this kind not specifically limited to the Galaxy Tab 10.1
- Kirem
kirem said:
This happened to me recently.
I left my tab discharge for a very long time. All the basic things wouldn't get the device to start charging again.
I checked the battery voltage and found that the battery had gone open circuit. This is a mechanism of the battery protection IC to protect against extreme discharge of the Li-Ion battery. My device was unable to wake the battery from this state - I guess that this is very bad design on Samsung's part.
To get around this do the following:
1. make sure that your battery is disconnected from the main circuit board.
2. get/ borrow/ steal a constant-current constant-voltage variable PSU.
3. set the PSU up at 4.2v with the current limited at 200mA
4. attach the leads to the battery and turn it on. ( red to red and black to black ! this can be done with small clips or multi meter probes )
5. wait for the battery voltage to rise from < 2.7v to around 3.6v.
6. disconnect the leads and re-attach the battery to the main circuit board.
7. before you package everything up connect you charger and turn the device on with the power button.
note: you don't have to complete #5, as long as the voltage raises to > 3.3v should be enough to stop the protection IC from defaulting back to protect mode and allow charging via the normal method.
This was very annoying for me, luckily I know a couple of things about how these systems work. If I didn't someone would have made a load of money out of me or the device would have ended up in the bin.
This is a general solution to problems of this kind not specifically limited to the Galaxy Tab 10.1
- Kirem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Kirem,
The GT-P5113 battery is actually a battery pack consisting of two batteries. The single connector from the pack that attaches to the main board of the GT-P113 has two red wires, two black wires and one blue wire. I'm assuming the blue wire is a "balance" charging lead, the red and black wires connect to each individual battery respectively (bat1+, bat1-), (bat2+, bat2-).
When charging using your method, I assume both batteries (or cells) need to be charged at the same time and with the same amperage. Is this assumption correct?
Hello people, i have a Xiaomi Redmi Note 4 there with the MTK processor. I replaced the complete LCD screen unit as it had the glass broken. We also accidentally destroyed/puntured the stock battery in this process, as it was very tightly glued in and we could not get it out at first. Tool was to sharp. So we ordered a replacement BN-41 Battery out of AliExpress, in a time when non were widely available.
Now the replacement battery is already in the phone, but it wont start-up with it. Despite it reads of 3.87V at its pins. Its rated at 3.85V typical. When i plug in the wall charger, the phone is starting but stuck in a bootloop.
I can access the fastboot mode with the charger plugged, but even when i let it sit there for hours, as soon as i unplug the charger, the phone shuts down immediatley. Also, when i unplug the battery cable from the mainboard while the phone boots or stays in fastboot mode, there is no change in behavior. So it does not matter if the battery is connected to the mainboard or not - same behavior. This leads me to believe the battery is not getting used be the phone.
So i measured the pins at the mainboard where the battery is plugged in, and it reads ~4.2V when i plug in a charger...
So energy is reaching this connection point from the wall charger but its not transfered into the battery, nor does the battery transfer its energy back into the mainboard - even when physically connected.
What is the issue here? Battery dead/fake? It looks a bit different than the stock battery. I read the stock battery has electronics in it that regulates charge/dischharge?
Thanks alot for any information or guesses....
Allright i tried the unbelievable... when i connect the battery connector a 180° turned, it powers on even without charger, but still stuck to that bootloop. I can access fastboot, but not recovery mode...
Fastboot mode on charger loads up battery - voltage increases.
Do you think the Mainboard could be fried because they mixed up polarity on the battery?
Hello. I'm a new member here. So my phone couldn't be turned on, i guess it was caused by the age (it aged 5 years). Before this phone couldn't be turned on, it was in a low battery situation, then i plugged to the wall which made the battery percentage increased to 67%, then i unplugged it and used it until the operating system crash (hang) about an hour, so i decided to pull and plug the battery. When it's booting, it gets bootloop. So i decided to pull and plug the battery again. Now it won't turn on at all. But after I checked using multimeter, it seems to reach the normal volt which is 3,7v. I tried vol up+home+power(screen is blank), vol down+home+power(screen still blank), charging it to pc(no battery notifications), cleaning the yellow battery parts (idk what it's called) also the port, tried a new battery, tried charging it to the wall, and nothing happened. When it was charging, it created a great heat. Note that this phone had never been rooted, exposed to sunlight, splashed water, etc. Maybe i need a new phone?? Lol i don't have enough budget right now.
Hello,
My phone's battery was starting to have issues so I bought a new one and replaced it yesterday. I've done it recently on another phone (same model) so knew what I was doing when reassembling it, with the right adhesives and everything. Then I left it plugged for the night as this was advised by the new battery's seller. But this is what happens this morning when I try to turn it on:
- Phone doesn't vibrate when pressing the power button, neither when holding different combinations of Power + volume, etc.
- When I plug it this is what happens: imgur[dot]com/fByubwN The screen turns on as it would normally do, displays the 100% charged battery logo and then just dies (with the green led remaining). The only way to turn the screen on is to unplug and plug it again. But the phone itself isn't booting.
Any thoughts appreciated!
BassLH said:
Hello,
- Phone doesn't vibrate when pressing the power button, neither when holding different combinations of Power + volume, etc.
- When I plug it this is what happens: imgur[dot]com/fByubwN The screen turns on as it would normally do, displays the 100% charged battery logo and then just dies (with the green led remaining). The only way to turn the screen on is to unplug and plug it again. But the phone itself isn't booting.
Any thoughts appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd say that the battery is at fault. It can be two things:
- it is not correctly plugged (maybe the connector is not perfectly aligned, or one of the pins is bended)
- it is completely depleted, so won't charge at all.
Disconnect phone from charger and try to test voltage on the motherboard with a voltmeter. If you can't read anything, disconnect the battery and test it directly.
Personally I would say the first problem is more likely - a completely bricked battery is not that common.
Actually the battery was fine. I've opened it again and turns out I've kind of messed up with the flex connectors of the motherboard.
So I was able to boot it while it's open but as soon as I reassemble it, the controls are not detected anymore. It's a matter of millimeters, some parts probably don't sit properly, etc.
We spent some time on it with a guy at a local repair shop, the conclusion was that I had to get a new phone, or a new motherboard which is almost the same haha.
Thank you for taking the time to reply!
Hi,
I had a Sony Z5 compact in a drawer for about 2 years, where the battery already was weak. I'd like to use it as a smarthome button panel where the bad battery won't matter, but I can't get it to turn on anymore.
When I first plugged it, the status LED switched to constant red. I unplugged it a couple hours later, just to find, that the LED stayed on even when unplugged. The device still was cold, so I don't think, that it really charged.
Since there was no reaction on the power button, I tried the "OFF"-button in the SIM slot. After reading on the internet, I held that button for 2 minutes. The phone vibrated every 15s, so it seemed alive. I then plugged in the charger, again the status LED turned constant red. This time the device got warm, seemingly charging.
After a couple of hours I tried starting it, but still, theres no reaction on the Power button. I again tried the OFF button, with no reaction whatsoever, not even vibrating anymore. Also the status LED shows no more reaction on plugging it in.
Is the device dead now? Anything I can try to get it working again? I don't need the battery anymore, Its supposed to spend its second life permanently plugged in.
best regards,
RockNLol
The usual advice is to make sure it is off (Hold power and vol-downup until it vibrates 3x / if really dead, just wait ~20s), and then leave it on a charger for a few hours. If that doesn't do it, your battery is toast.
Even if it is revivable, there is a chance that it is so weak that it will make the phone crash - the battery is used like a buffer even when on the charger, and if the phone needs high peak current, it will try to take it from the battery. If the battery is too weak, voltage will drop and the phone will crash.
In any way, I would not want a battery that is potentially damaged to be at the charger 24/7. If you deep-discharge a battery, it can form tiny little short circuits, and if you charge it, it can become a fire hazard. As in, burn your house down and release lots of toxic fumes while doing so.
If you are familiar with soldering, the best solution would be to open the phone, remove the battery, and replace it with a fake battery circuit. Obviously, don't do this if you aren't comfortable doing this kind of stuff, and always have a plan for what to do if the battery decides to light on fire.
For that, after you removed the battery, try to pry off the yellow tape on it, and get to the battery protection PCB near the connector. Carefully cut the leads to the actual battery and remove it (this is the most dangerous part). Then, solder a large capacitor across the battery leads and a connector for a power supply that can provide around 4V at, idk, 2-3A. There aren't many 4V power supplies, but a 5V one and a (silicon) diode in series work well (make sure the diode can survive a couple amps). Then, plug the fake battery back into the mainboard, fix everything in place using tape or glue, and see if it boots.
1ggn3 said:
The usual advice is to make sure it is off (Hold power and vol-down until it vibrates 3x / if really dead, just wait ~20s),
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Power and Volume-Up?
Sure, one of the two
Power + Volume-down starts TWRP when the device is not running.
When the device is running, it takes a screenshot.