Have a galaxy tab 10.1 and the screen started getting screwed up. It's mainly used by my son for YouTube kids so it does get some abuse. The screen would streak and some of the colors would reverse, i.e. the menu bar would become white instead of black. Not negative but just odd color changes and streaks of color through the screen.
At first I found it would fix after slightly twisting the device. Then it wouldn't resolve itself at all so based on the idea it was probably a loose connection and some research suggesting the ribbon cable as a common failure I opened it up. After wiggling the ribbon cable I noticed it resolved the issue. I removed and reset the cable and it was fixed.
Now again today the tablet got dropped and went white. I was able to resolve it by twisting for a little then as before it wouldn't resolve. I opened it up and reset for a moment before going white again.
I can't get it to resolve at all now, and it's not seeming to light up either but the ribbon cable would cause both.
The ribbon cable takes a u-turn and inserts into the one slot. It seemed like when I manipulated the bend the problem would come and go. I couldn't be sure if it was the cable or connection but am wondering if anyone has seen a similar problem or issues with the cables or connections that are the same?
Thinking I'd change the ribbon cable and hope it works before delving deeper.
TIA
Bryan
Related
So I cracked my LCD screen, bought a replacement, opened up the phone w/ little incident (man they really do cram a lot in there!) and I powered it on.....
the screen is just white, if I fiddle with the connection at where the LCD connects into what I believe is the digitizer I can kind of see a keypad button layout.
What do these symptoms describe and does anyone have a link to the service manual?
Thanks in advance for your time.
I had to replace the LCD on a wizard so here my experience... Make sure the two data ribbons are inserted securely. Also, before you power on, plug your hermes into your computer (assuming your computer is on and logged in as an admin) via USB (this sounds weird but I had to do this for some reason....) and then turn on the wizard.
If you still have a problem, you may have damaged something more than the screen.
Good luck.
Ok I will give plugging it in a shot.
Before you plugged it in what did it do when you powered it on?
anyone else have any input on what the issue could be?
It could be wrong LCD. There are two types of LCD for hermes/wizard with same connector but they are different. One is with gold flex cable, the other is with black flex cable. First one is most popular on wizards, the other on hermes. Check what was the color of your previous lcd flex cable and the new one.
Instructions
Can anyone post the instructions on how to take the lcd apart ?
I have gotten this far
http://www.howardforums.com/showthread.php?t=1152710&page=1&pp=15
I'm a bit afraid to go on without instructions
Here is the lcd I got
http://cnn.cn/shop/8525tytn-touch-p-87.html
I've made sure I purchased the correct replacement for my screen. Followed a guide and got it all hooked up. The phone powers on but I get a white screen.
Anyone have any guesses as to what could be causing this?
Your help would be much appreciated as I would hate buying another phone.
Incorrect ribbon cable seat.
Take it apart and make sure that both the ribbon cable on the side, and the bottom with the tiny black screws are properly seated.
Yea i have tried all of that....but I just tried tinkering with it again and i was able to get a partial picture by changing the back pressure of where the LCD ribbon plugs into the other ribbon assembly the buttons are connected to.
So I am guessing there needs to be a super secure conenction at this point. Problem is...the black latch that holds the cable from the LCD to the other ribbon is broke so i cant make it pinch the cable.
Anyone know where I can find a replacement for this other than buying a broken hemes for parts?
You need the flex cable connection, and there is a site in canada that has them.
www.cnn.cn
Yea I checked that out....I don't see it, do you?
teknics said:
You need the flex cable connection, and there is a site in canada that has them.
www.cnn.cn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.cn is china not canada.
Good point - ca = canada
So I took apart my phone, and I think I screwed up somewhere.
When I turn my phone on, I can see that the screen is turning on, but nothing is actually being transmitted. I know that it can turn on cause in a pitch black room, the screen is on, but nothing is displayed- not even the Samsung logo or anything else.
I can wait a little while and plug my phone into computer and it'll show up on the computer, so it's not bricked.
I'm just asking to see if anyone else has experienced this problem.
You probably didn't connect one of the clips correctly. Or, worse, damaged the socket somehow.
For me, I did a screen replacement myself. I chipped a corner of one of the sockets while trying to wiggle the connector in. Screen did not turn on initially, but after I rebooted it couple times, it suddenly started working.
ddochi11 said:
You probably didn't connect one of the clips correctly. Or, worse, damaged the socket somehow.
For me, I did a screen replacement myself. I chipped a corner of one of the sockets while trying to wiggle the connector in. Screen did not turn on initially, but after I rebooted it couple times, it suddenly started working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a picture/diagram that I can look at to see if mine is damaged?
You would have to open it up again and inspect the socket carefully. For me, a tiny piece of plastic broke away from a corner of the socket. It didn't seem like I actually damaged the connector so I just went ahead and tried it anyways and it worked.
ddochi11 said:
You would have to open it up again and inspect the socket carefully. For me, a tiny piece of plastic broke away from a corner of the socket. It didn't seem like I actually damaged the connector so I just went ahead and tried it anyways and it worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you link me to the display you bought?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Display...e_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item4172150dcb
This is what I bought.
I've been working on this problem off and on since the summer and have read through pretty much everything I can find (some similar posts with no resolution). After about 6 months of using a Galaxy S6, I want my Xperia back.
Long story short, I replaced the screen on my Xperia Z3V a while back. I'd already paid Sony for one screen on this phone and didn't want to do it again (wish I did). After I replaced the screen, the phone worked fine except I no longer had "proper" cell/4G signal. When I say "proper," the signal randomly appears (4 bars/-87dBm) and randomly disappears (-120dBm). I can't find any pattern to this. In some places with very good signal such as the Verizon store, the phone will try to activate but will fail to make calls or receive texts after.
List of what I've tried so far:
- factory reset
- new SIM from Verizon
- new antenna cable (blue coax cable, clips into side of phone)
- new antenna
The part that really confuses me is that disconnecting the blue coax cable has no effect. I.e., if I disconnect the cable while the phone claims to have signal, nothing changes. My assumption is that signal would instantly drop.
Is there anything worth trying before writing the phone off?
Possibly related... There is a white putty along the bottom of the battery that turns into a flat white cable which runs up the length of the battery to the WiFi antenna. Can anyone tell me what this might be? I can't find pictures describing this phone anywhere.
Thanks in advance.
I have a Z3 and the blue coax cable is the one for signal, in this case it seems either it is broken or something along those lines, as I have the same problem in my z3 but I know why because I had broken the coax connector so the signal issue. Try checking the antenna at the bottom or the connector on the motherboard itself
Neelkanth said:
I have a Z3 and the blue coax cable is the one for signal, in this case it seems either it is broken or something along those lines, as I have the same problem in my z3 but I know why because I had broken the coax connector so the signal issue. Try checking the antenna at the bottom or the connector on the motherboard itself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's true. You probably damaged the coax connector on either the motherboard or the loud speaker side. The proper procedure for removing the blue cable is holding down the socket with one tool and removing the cable with another. And best is to remove the speaker module without touching the cables...
Hmm... I did not realize the coax cable was quite that fragile. Lesson learned. It seems impossible to find brand new replacements for this particular phone, I wonder if Z2 or Z3 parts would fit.
The old iPhones I've successfully replaced screens on seem like toys next to the Sony...
Hello there. I am an early adopter of this device.
After all the disappointment with the wifi and gps capabilities and failing to utilize the tf201 as a light netbook replacement, I stowed it away somewhere and lost interest, as I didn't buy the thing to play angry birds. Now about two weeks ago I remembered the tablet and wanted to try amusing our cat with it (which amazingly works great, he is all about those cat video games now ) and got out the dock as well, since someone had apparently ported a few linux images to the tf201 more successfully then last time I read up on it.
The keyboard dock was pretty much an external battery it seemed. None of the keys would work whatsoever but the touchpad did. The battery was recognized and charged fine. I tried the sd-card slot and usb connector, both also working.
I have been searching the net for similar issues and found a lot of people whose docks were dead, with various symptoms. I tried a lot of things unsuccessfully and continued to use the dock as an external battery and for quick charging with the wall plug.
Well then yesterday I connected the dock again to charge the tablet a bit, and what do you know? the keyboard is working again. WTF? I have reconnected the tablet multiple times now, folded and unfolded the whole combo and it is still working today? Could it be a software problem? Is it multiple things causing this?
I decided to open a thread and gather information in one place, so that others might find it easier to troubleshoot this.
Following is a list of things that other's who have similar problems might try to fix/investigate. After that I will post some things that I have tried in order to troubleshoot my problems and please share what ideas you might have, as I am sure the problems with my keyboard dock will return eventually.
Here is what I was able to gather as potential root causes and possible fixes for dead keyboard docks:
1) The ingenious product design of the dock hinge makes it a premium dirt trap. Lots of bits and dust can get inside and will all the time, as the gap is wide open and there is convenient rubber on the sides with glue that dissolves and attracts crap that is basically uncleanable. But the connector is! So try cleaning the first. Sadly it is not easy to access but cotton swabs and a tooth brush with some cleaning alcohol will do it. The tablet side can be cleaned more easily but also isn't so problematic as a dust trap.
2) The flex cable inside the dock can become loose due to vibrations. This was a problem with the transformer generation before and they seem to have improved the design but I still read reports from people who had this happen. This is the easiest to fix out of all of these problems and if you have connection problems with your dock, make sure to check this. The dock is very easily opened with a phillips screw driver, a plastic prod (guitar pick, old credit card, cheap phone repair tools etc) and some patience. Be sure to not lift the two halves away from each other, as the cable connecting the top to bottom is very short and if you are not careful, you'll rip off the connector on the pcb. Check the flex cables and reseat them.
3) The connector between the tf201 and the dock is built very flimsily, but better then the first transformer series. The connector on the tablet side can lift off the pads it's soldered to due to flex and stress because it carries the tablets weight partially without a lot of support. The good news about this is, that if you have a decent rework station, this is potentially fixable. Opening the tablet is a hassle, you need a heatgun to soften the adhesive around the case (noone mentions this it seems) and slide the locking tabs in the recesses (where the tablet usually locks to the dock, left and right from the connector) to the open position. Then carefully pry the whole assembly open and get access to where the flex cable is connected to the dock/charge port. with a proper hot air rework station, that port can be reflown if the pins have indeed lifted from the pads on the little pcb. But this is also very finicky, as you will melt stuff in the process without shielding it from the heat (captone tape or maybe aluminum foil can do the trick).
4) Software? I only have theories on this but I think a lot of cases have some sort of software problem. What is known about how the dock functions?
- it contains a battery, which can be charged independently of the tablet. Charging this battery requires 15V and cannot be done with a common usb connection.
- there is a usb host connector, so there must be a controller for that inside the dock. it's not just wired through to the tablet, there is stuff happening here.
- there is an sdcard slot, so there must be some hardware responsible for powering and reading/writen to that as well.
- there has to be some sort of firmware, responsible for the low level things going on in the dock I am thinking, it has to do powermanagement for several internal devices.
so my conclusion from this information is, that maybe some of the problems could be caused there. how could this be debugged?
or:
- the custom rom could have a problem with the dock. The software side might be wonky for whatever reason. I am running a KatKiss 7.1.2 rom and AOSP is the only choice I can set as the hardware keyboard. Some people had success with hard reseting their tf201 or even a factory reset or reflash. A lot of people reported this did nothing for them.
TL;DR if your keyboard isn't working, your dock isn't charging, or some other feature on your dock seems dead suddenly, try the above things and please report. I am trying to collect all info on this to help people troubleshoot and investigate these issues.
- I have tried to hard reset the tf201 with dock attached and without. didn't help.
- I opened the dock and reseated the flex cables, but they looked fine in the first place. Also didn't help.
- I tried fiddling with the keyboard and language settings, also did nothing. Don't want to reflash/change roms just yet, I couldn't gather any cohesive info on wether people -had these sorts of issues due to a custom rom.
- I cleaned the connector on the dock and the tablet with isopropyl and got out lots of gunk but this also did not help.
now I was about to reopen the tablet (I was in there before to fix something on the case), but then it suddenly started working again. So I am pretty reluctant to just open the tablet to check at the connector pcb, since it is quite risky and I am glad I was able to get the thing back together so neatly, after I opened it the first time. I have a hot air rework station and a microscope to check and repair this, but now that I am thinking it might be a software issue after all, I really don't want to risk ruining the tablet. It's obviously not made for being repaired/maintained (thanks ASUS, it's not like it was extraordinarily expensive...).
Here's the issue I had..
https://www.androidpolice.com/2011/...-battery-drain-here-is-why-and-how-to-fix-it/
Having missed the window to have this repaired by Asus I just leave my keyboard in a drawer to keep papers from curling.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
HorthLithperer said:
Here's the issue I had..
https://www.androidpolice.com/2011/...-battery-drain-here-is-why-and-how-to-fix-it/
Having missed the window to have this repaired by Asus I just leave my keyboard in a drawer to keep papers from curling.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for that link. So that apparently just concerns people who have a dock that has it's battery draining, which I am luckily not one of. I also did the test described in the link, so I guess powermanagement is not affected by the firmware incompability in this regard.