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Hello,
After the latest OTA release (9.4.2.13) I am having the following issues:
- Putting tablet into sleep mode (unit on, screen turned off) with WiFi off causes
tablet to shut off after approx. 10-15 minutes. To turn tablet back on I have to hold the
power button in for approx. 10 seconds.
Before this update I NEVER had this problem. WiFi is set to always stay on in Settings.
This also occurs if I set to turn WiFi off when the screen if off (in Settings).
- The battery seems to be discharging much faster now. Before the update, the battery
would last approx. 7-8 hours under normal use (web surfing, email, etc). Now, I'm lucky if I get 5-6 hours.
I currently do not have any emperical evidence to back this up. It just
seems to be draining faster. I will check to see if an app or some process
may be causing this issue.
This latest update has really annoyed me given these issues. I had none
of the issues that this update is supposed to fix (lockups, reboots, Wifi problems).
Up to this point, I have really loved this tablet. Now, I think about its problems every time I use it.
Please fix these issues and give us a tool that will allow us to revert back to older firmware releases.
Thanks for listening.
-Paul
pmuch12345 said:
Hello,
After the latest OTA release (9.4.2.13) I am having the following issues:
- Putting tablet into sleep mode (unit on, screen turned off) with WiFi off causes
tablet to shut down. To turn tablet back on I have to hold the power button in for approx. 10 seconds. Before the update I NEVER had this problem. WiFi is set to always stay on in Settings.
l
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you have wifi off and the setting for wifi to always be on in settings and it locks up. If you turn wifi on does it not lock up? I tried to duplicate the problem but could not. I turned off wifi on settings and was able to sleep and power on the device without troubles. (For the record Bluetooth was also off.) I believe you are having a problem but do not think the root cause is what you suspect. Maybe it is a program you have installed that I do not or vice versa. If you can hook your tablet up to a computer and capture a logcat perhaps something will show up.
Alternatively is it maybe how long you let it sleep? I only left it off for the count of ten.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
I turn Wifi off prior to putting tablet into sleep mode to save on battery power.
I have not tried to leave WiFi on while in sleep mode. I will try this.
It seems to me, whether WiFi is On or Off when putting the tablet
into sleep mode should not cause the tablet to turn off after a short period
of time.
I will have to test, but the tablet is in sleep mode for at least 10-15 minutes
when it shuts off.
BTW, I never had this issue prior to this OTA release. I would be really
surprised if an application is causing this issue.
Thanks
I'm not having this issue and never had it, just like the last post says it can be caused by some application, what if you guys share the list of installed apps with some app like App Dragon App Lister (free in the market) then you can find if there are something in common, Are your primes rooted? mine is not.
regards
After the OTA i get this problem that restart every 10-15 minutes. I has been happening it me and i have been blaming the dock but now i see is the OTA that has cause this problem. Come on Asus, u can do better than this.
Yep, there IS an issue.
Last use last night was at 11:45pm and I was at 67% and at 7:07 I was at 44%. 23% overnight and while in deep sleep AND I use Tasker to shut Sync and BT and Wifi off at 10:30 pm IF they are on and I never use IPS and I am usually in Power Savings mode, so you cannot blame it on these things. Not good!
Better Battery shows AlarmReceiver as highest battery user at a mere laughable 2.8%
BUT CPU Spy shows 5:35 time in 475 clock speed... And since no other apps are clelarly burning my battery... it must be this low end 475.
Thanks Asus for (1) taking back the 1400 you gave us (2) taking back lower end 102-375 speeds I would use (3) forcing us to sit at 475 when we could be lower (4) giving me a battery drain issue I never had. Thanks
Confirmed, I am experiencing the same issue. Had to cold boot wake up after routine sleep mode this morning. Note battery dropped 50% while unused.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
If you want it to go to Gary, PM him.
---------- Post added at 05:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:33 PM ----------
Lock-N-Load said:
Yep, there IS an issue.
Last use last night was at 11:45pm and I was at 67% and at 7:07 I was at 44%. 23% overnight and while in deep sleep AND I use Tasker to shut Sync and BT and Wifi off at 10:30 pm IF they are on and I never use IPS and I am usually in Power Savings mode, so you cannot blame it on these things. Not good!
Better Battery shows AlarmReceiver as highest battery user at a mere laughable 2.8%
BUT CPU Spy shows 5:35 time in 475 clock speed... And since no other apps are clelarly burning my battery... it must be this low end 475.
Thanks Asus for (1) taking back the 1400 you gave us (2) taking back lower end 102-375 speeds I would use (3) forcing us to sit at 475 when we could be lower (4) giving me a battery drain issue I never had. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your post was on the right track until I read your last paragraph. So unnecessary. I like your perspective to be able to hold Asus accountable/responsible in making sure our primes work like we want it to -- but all your posts end up soiling the conversation, and it's not just one or two, its all of them. Help us out here...please
So does anyone know if there is a way to revert back to the .11 update? That seemed to work the best for everyone and it'd be great to just go back to a working update.
Just to pile on, I am also seeing battery usage and awake time when it should be sleeping where as before everything was fine.
Battery was 76% last night in balanced mode before i went to bed. Woke up this morning at 8am and battery is dead, Never had an issue before this new update
pmuch12345 said:
I turn Wifi off prior to putting tablet into sleep mode to save on battery power.
I have not tried to leave WiFi on while in sleep mode. I will try this.
It seems to me, whether WiFi is On or Off when putting the tablet
into sleep mode should not cause the tablet to turn off after a short period
of time.
I will have to test, but the tablet is in sleep mode for at least 10-15 minutes
when it shuts off.
BTW, I never had this issue prior to this OTA release. I would be really
surprised if an application is causing this issue.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery savings may or may not be valid. I am not trying to judge on battery savings or use. What I am trying to do is narrow the scope of the lock problem and determine steps to reproduce the lock. This makes it easier to avoid the problem as a user and fix the problem as a developer. I am sure that it involves the OTA update. What I am suggesting is that, without the ability to reproduce it probably involves more than just the OTA update alone.
Does that make sense?
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
JanetPanic said:
What I am trying to do is narrow the scope of the lock problem and determine steps to reproduce the lock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've touched on the cruxt of the issue. It appears that not all Prime's behave the same way. Prime's that were fine before the update are broken and those that were broken now work. Since the h/w's all the same, it really is a curious issue.
pmuch12345 said:
Hello,
After the latest OTA release (9.4.2.13) I am having the following issues:
- Putting tablet into sleep mode (unit on, screen turned off) with WiFi off causes
tablet to shut off after approx. 10-15 minutes. To turn tablet back on I have to hold the
power button in for approx. 10 seconds.
Before this update I NEVER had this problem. WiFi is set to always stay on in Settings.
...
-Paul
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this same behavior only after a minute of manually or auto-timeout screen off.
* No problems with .11
* Installed OTA update, lockup in sleep mode started
* Uninstalled Flash and Dolphin Browser JIC, problem remained
* It is a lock up not power down. Have to hold power button 10 sec
* I can wake with power button within a minute or so
* Wifi on or off
* If I force screen to never shutoff it stays working fine as it never goes to sleep
* If I manually power down, it will power up normally
-Robert
Rather than making us wait a month for another "fix," Asus should do the right thing and give those of us who had no problems on the old FW a way to revert back. This is bogus.
Lock-N-Load said:
Thanks Asus for (1) taking back the 1400 you gave us (2) taking back lower end 102-375 speeds I would use (3) forcing us to sit at 475 when we could be lower (4) giving me a battery drain issue I never had. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think there could be inconsistencies in the SoC? Teg3 was delayed and people were speculating that it was due to fabrication issues. It's an extremely complex design and it's odd that some devices experience issues when others don't. It could be other h/w that's inconsistent but there's nothing earth shatteringly different in the Prime other than the SoC. Just something to think about...
I can confirm lockups and reduced battery life after the update though I do not have any solid information to say what is causing it. Prior to the update I could go most of my day at work using the tablet very mildly and get home with 80% or so. Now I'm home for lunch and I'm sitting at 70% with 5 hours left in my work day. I've also experienced two lockups today and have to hold the power button for 10-15 seconds before it will boot up. I'm not incredibly worried about it, I feel like these issues will be ironed out more easily than wifi and gps issues. ; )
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
BarryH_GEG said:
Do you think there could be inconsistencies in the SoC? Teg3 was delayed and people were speculating that it was due to fabrication issues. It's an extremely complex design and it's odd that some devices experience issues when others don't. It could be other h/w that's inconsistent but there's nothing earth shatteringly different in the Prime other than the SoC. Just something to think about...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, I think alot of these issues (aside from backlight bleed and GPS) have a direct correlation to Tegra3. I think the market has something to say about that too though -- how many other Tegra 3 tablets are there? When is the next non-Asus tegra 3 tab coming out? Not until May/June...
Honestly, I don't think Tegra3 does too well with CPU frequency stages. Then you have ICS on top, which is new as well. The combination could be disastrous. I'm not surprised there is issues, Asus is doing a good job staying afloat though.
Other OEMs are looking at how Asus is proceeding with this and are learning. But Asus has the advantage. They have the closest relationship with nvidia than anyone else does (I'm speculating) and thus is brings them closer to the Apple model, where control is maintained throughout all the levels of the tablet experience (App ecosystem, OEM, SoC)
Agreed, how to revert back to working binaries!
BarryH_GEG said:
You've touched on the cruxt of the issue. It appears that not all Prime's behave the same way. Prime's that were fine before the update are broken and those that were broken now work. Since the h/w's all the same, it really is a curious issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This not completely true statement. Gary already explained exactly what the update did. Raising the lower clock doped doesn't mean a broken prime...lol. my prime still works just fine after update. Yes, some are experiencing issues after update but not all. So to assume all that were fine before update are now broken is incorrect.
First off, I'm rooted and have already patched my Omate TrueSmart Developer Edition with Lokifish Marz's security patch.
Device: 1900 1/8 TrueSmart Dev Edition
ROM/Firmware version: Latest
Changes made to stock firmware (if any): A few Xposed mods
Issue: See below, freeze, drain, screen not functioning.
Steps Taken: Restart, antivirus check
One day I turned my TrueSmart on (while off my wrist), went back about 15 minutes later to it and the screen wouldn't turn on. I though "Ahh, that's strange. I thought I turned this on." I pressed the power button multiple times to try to turn it on. It was already on, but the display would not turn on. The battery was charged already and at about 85%. I held the power button and felt the haptic feedback - no screen on.
Earlier that week, I'd noticed that the TrueSmart's battery was draining a bit faster than usual on WiFi alone, no SIM or GPS on. When the screen wouldn't work, I held down the power button for about 10-16 seconds (some Android Devices will restart, but not all, so I gave that a shot). - Nothing. I then left it alone for a day (didn't feel like playing with it after a long and busy work day). I tried to turn on the screen - nothing. I still got haptic feedback so I knew it was on. "Crap - now I have to void the warranty by doing a battery pull." Removed the screws, found the crappy water seal, did a battery pull, and turned the device back on. Screen worked - phew. The past two days it had been draining rather fast and the watch was overheating even though I kept it in about room temperature conditions.
I thought something was up so I ran avast! Anti-virus (I'm not playing the Linux OS' don't need antivirus software game - so let's not go there.) and the definitions/database took over two minutes to update (usually just 15 seconds) on a strong WiFi connection - strange. I ran the scan - nothing showed up but the scan mysteriously kept going away and I had to restart the scan a few times. Finally it worked even though I had to turn my WiFi on the watch off.
My question is - am I being completely paranoid or has my watch been hacked? Fast battery drain, connection issues, screen not responding, overheating - those are signs of spying and wiretapping, am I wrong? For the time being I removed the battery so that way if I am being spied on or hacked, the watch can't be powered on.
I've had the watch for only a few weeks, never installed any strange apps - all legit stuff. Am I crazy :silly: or is this something to be worried about?
deedscreen said:
First off, I'm rooted and have already patched my Omate TrueSmart Developer Edition with Lokifish Marz's security patch.
One day I turned my TrueSmart on (while off my wrist), went back about 15 minutes later to it and the screen wouldn't turn on. I though "Ahh, that's strange. I thought I turned this on." I pressed the power button multiple times to try to turn it on. It was already on, but the display would not turn on. The battery was charged already and at about 85%. I held the power button and felt the haptic feedback - no screen on.
Earlier that week, I'd noticed that the TrueSmart's battery was draining a bit faster than usual on WiFi alone, no SIM or GPS on. When the screen wouldn't work, I held down the power button for about 10-16 seconds (some Android Devices will restart, but not all, so I gave that a shot). - Nothing. I then left it alone for a day (didn't feel like playing with it after a long and busy work day). I tried to turn on the screen - nothing. I still got haptic feedback so I knew it was on. "Crap - now I have to void the warranty by doing a battery pull." Removed the screws, found the crappy water seal, did a battery pull, and turned the device back on. Screen worked - phew. The past two days it had been draining rather fast and the watch was overheating even though I kept it in about room temperature conditions.
I thought something was up so I ran avast! Anti-virus (I'm not playing the Linux OS' don't need antivirus software game - so let's not go there.) and the definitions/database took over two minutes to update (usually just 15 seconds) on a strong WiFi connection - strange. I ran the scan - nothing showed up but the scan mysteriously kept going away and I had to restart the scan a few times. Finally it worked even though I had to turn my WiFi on the watch off.
My question is - am I being completely paranoid or has my watch been hacked? Fast battery drain, connection issues, screen not responding, overheating - those are signs of spying and wiretapping, am I wrong? For the time being I removed the battery so that way if I am being spied on or hacked, the watch can't be powered on.
I've had the watch for only a few weeks, never installed any strange apps - all legit stuff. Am I crazy :silly: or is this something to be worried about?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as the apps that you have installed are legit, you should be fine.
I guess my only concern would be...how long did you use the device before installing Loki's patch? Did you connect to any network prior? It's your BT on? Is it set correctly?
As far as the overheating and other issues...I had the same. When I went to the latest Operative 20140318v2, most of the issues fixed themselves. Now, the overheating happens only if I am on a call for more than 10min.
Battery issues have become almost not existent when I patched up. However, I did find that of you upgrade to SL PRO...the juice seems to run out quicker....
I would install a good battery app that monitors ALL processes and hardware using power. I was able to solve a few issues this way.
But, overall, I really don't think you're being watched.
Good luck....
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Well I already know you're crazy but...
Even with Ensec or Operative the firmware is still unstable. I randomly get greatly increased battery drain yet even when connected to WiFi with full packet logging nothing stands out as odd. The screen not waking up happens from time to time as well as soft locks are being caused by some apps. I suggest you install a system monitor app and see if a particular app is to blame. On one TS, G+ randomly sits there and updates the feed for hours without ever actually updating. One another, it's weather, then on yet another, no issues at all yet all three are on the same firmware and same patch version and option.
The probability that your TS is hacked is fairly low and I suggest looking at the more likely causes first.
Perfectly normal behavior of Android device
BTW - force (hard) restart on many Android device is vol up + power.
Vol down + power will take screen shot.
Of course, there's many Android devices so maybe that combo also works...
TS is half finished device and we are all lucky we have Loki here...
If we were depending on Omate that wouldn't be good...
I'm still waiting my October 2100 1/8 release and I'm quite sure I won't even open it...
I'll sell that and develop for something else...(don't like when someone treat me like idiot)
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
funky0308 said:
I'll sell that and develop for something else...(don't like when someone treat me like idiot)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hopefully another Android based smartwatch. Idea man has ideas.
Lokifish Marz said:
Hopefully another Android based smartwatch. Idea man has ideas.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely another smartwatch...
I was really patient with Omate but this is too much...
If I have to wait almost eight months for Xperia Z2 I would f***ed them off and that's device that will work fantastic from the box.
But to wait something eight months to have 30% finished device (in a hardware and software way) - naaah...I'm (probably) out...
That's too bad, I really liked that idea and specifications but, if anyone wants to be honest - it just don't worth all that "hype"...
To completely relay on XDA devs to fix tethering and paring, to patch their incapacities and mistakes...to found their company and then wait for them while they are selling watch (newer and better) for a months...
Way tooooo much for me...
Sorry guys for spamming thread
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
@funky0308 - Totally hear you. Maybe the Neptune Pine (quite a bit larger but still) may be better when it's finally released. The TrueSmart is unstable in some ways.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
deedscreen said:
@funky0308 - Totally hear you. Maybe the Neptune Pine (quite a bit larger but still) may be better when it's finally released. The TrueSmart is unstable in some ways.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lokifish Marz said:
Well I already know you're crazy but...
Even with Ensec or Operative the firmware is still unstable...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha, we all are a bit crazy. Could make sense.
@mghtymse007 - I used it for a few days before the patch but I should do a factory reset and try to re-patch just to be extra safe.
Hello folks! I wanted to explain the solution I came up with to the problem of the very lengthy startups on my android car radio.
Your typical car radio is wired like you see below:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNRk8tR3VobmxOdUk/view?usp=sharing
With a OEM radio, your startup is just a few seconds for a modern Linux- or android-based car radio. Even some aftermarket radios like the mainline AVH Pioneer series are up and running in seconds.
Not so much with our favorite android aftermarket car radios. Boot up times are something on the order of 20 to 30 seconds. This isn’t too bad in and of itself, but if you’re the sort of individual that likes to “get up and go” this starts getting very annoying after a while. If you’re refueling your car then start up the motor when finished, that cuts the power to the radio and you witness another 30 seconds before everything is up and running, and that’s before the stereo does its media scan and the audio apps get loaded into the RAM. So you’re almost a minute on your drive before the tunes start.
A straightforward solution is what you see below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNcVFYZG1mamhVN00/view?usp=sharing
I’ve wired the ignition trigger line directly onto the positive. This keeps the radio on at all times. This eliminates the annoying boot up delay, however we run the risk of draining the car battery this way. I have seen discussions on this forum where standby power consumption for aftermarket android head units runs somewhere on the order of 25 mA, all the way up to 300 mA or more. I have not tested this out although it would make for an interesting study. The point is this is a potential problem if you plan to leave your vehicle parked somewhere for an extended period of time. You don’t want your car in the long term parking lot at the airport to have a dead battery when you arrive back late at night from your trip, because the android radio was running off your car battery for the days or weeks you were gone.
If you wish to eliminate the lengthy android boot up time and also save your car battery, allow me to propose the following solution:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNV2pUUmNiN3RLMDg/view?usp=sharing
In this example, I have purchased a battery isolator and a very small auxiliary battery just the power the car radio. This involves the addition of some extra electronics in your trunk, and some extra 4-conductor wiring from this new battery and battery isolator up to the car radio. If you know what you are doing you can do this all in one afternoon, which was my experience.
You’ll need a few things in order to get this project rolling:
A 12V 18-amp-hour battery that is typically used in an uninterruptible power supply. $35:
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12180-Rechargeable-Battery-Bolts/dp/B00A82A3RK/
Battery isolator:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-IGD140HP-140-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001DKRF2M/
or http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=iso_pwr
(There’s plenty of different choices here. Look around and see what you like. I chose the IsoPwr unit because it is solid-state diode-based and has no mechanical relay inside it.)
Four-conductor wire:
https://www.amazon.com/16AWG-4-Conductor-Speaker-White-Mediabridge/dp/B0193RRUBM/
Butt splices, and splicing tool.
Fish tape, for running the wire underneath the carpet in the car.
Toolset for removing the seats, center console, removing the radio, etc.
A stiff drink for when the trolls show up. (Just kidding! )
I also purchased a pair of trailer wire extension cables, which are four conductor wires with plugs.
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48145-Wire-Extension-Length/dp/B0002RNSNM/
This works well for keeping the wiring in place in case I need to remove the battery or the radio.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNbGswdW04V010akU/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNTDhfY3hLT2Rlc3M/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNVUc5TXJSMzN2STQ/view?usp=sharing
As you can see in the pictures, I fabricated a wooden stand to retain everything, and I had a plastic battery box laying around from an earlier car stereo installation.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNNElSUDUtOGhDNXc/view?usp=sharing
The procedure is simple, you place the battery and isolator in the trunk and run the wire up to the car radio. You cut the power leads on your aftermarket car wire radio harness, and splicing your four conductor wire. This wire runs all the way and hooks up to your isolator in the trunk, which in turn is connected to the auxiliary battery.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNVE9peGZGZF91MXM/view?usp=sharing
Also, an important point: LABEL YOUR WIRES!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNaVhPVWg4OHlGMGs/view?usp=sharing
You really don't want to mis-wire anything and screw up your car.
An optional switch on the positive line running to the radio prevents discharge of the auxiliary battery, in case you’re parked for an exceptionally long amount of time.
If it seems like a lot of running around to get around a technical limitation on the part of the radio manufacturers, it really is. This was an experimental project on my part to expand my technical prowess in to give me the android car audio experience I desired minus the tire some waiting for the radio to boot up every time I got in the vehicle.
I’ve been running this for a few days now and the result is excellent. I can restart the car after filling up at the gas station, and now there is little delay other than the OS scanning the USB and MicroSD drives. And the radio works almost from the start first thing in the morning, before I even pull out of the driveway.
If you know what you are doing it can’t be beat.
Any questions?
Nice, I thought about this a while back. Quick question, when you turn your vehicle off, the radio stays on? You have to manually turn it off right?
ffwd4490 said:
Nice, I thought about this a while back. Quick question, when you turn your vehicle off, the radio stays on? You have to manually turn it off right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is correct. You turn your radio off manually, with or without the key in the ignition.
The standby current is the question. Some folks that do CanBus monitoring through their radio report large current draw when the radio is in standby mode, but those that don't do canbus seem to see standby current on the order of 80 mA down to about 25mA. It's an ongoing debate.
The separate battery eliminates the worry of draining your main car battery dry.
Make sense?
Yes totally, I've wanted to do this, just not sure if I want always on and manual turn on/off, or the wait... So as usual I do nothing lol. Great write up though! Cheers!!
That seems like a lot of parts and expense for very little gain.
Wouldn't it be easier to just put a switch or a timer on the ign line into the radio?
EDIT:
Like this;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Circuit...-delay-relay-Turn-on-off-switch-/131776109221
So for $3, it will hold the IGN line powered when IGN source is terminated, adjustable for anything between 0.1 seconds and 1 hour. Now when you go and fill up your gas tank, the radio stays on, but if you leave the car parked overnight, it will still do a full bootup the next morning.
EDIT2: This $5 unit is better;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LED...itch-Relay-ON-OFF-Module-12-24V-/262503313875
1) it will accept a higher voltage range, safe for car 14.5 volt.
2) it accepts a separate power and trigger input, meaning that it is a DIGITAL timer rather than analog timer that is potentially sensitive to temperature.
I didn't think of this for the short term pit stop boot up delay. We already have that solved with the software mod that allows you to keep the Hu powered for 2 hours. For me this would be for the overnight/work shut down.
The problem with the software mod is that only works after the radio has booted.
In my push to start car, I insert the card and the radio starts to boot but when I press the button the power is cut to the radio and it reboots again since the mod wasn't loaded yet.
So one of these mods could solve my problem.
Great,
I have been looking for a long time after this solution.
I want to install this but thinking about the next problem. My power-off function does not work. When pushing the power button, i have a black screen, the leds off the buttons are still active and after pressing the power button the system reboots. Not a perfect sleep or standby modus. If i don't fix this first the extra battery won't be a solution.
I can fix this by adjusting the software?
RK3066 800 x 400 with MALAYSK ROM (12 June)
I think it's absolutely absurd that these head units simply do not have a built in standby power supply keeping them in a sleep state rather than shutting down entirely.
Nine years ago with my atom-based desktop PC installed in the dash, using a dc-dc switching power supply, that desktop computer based infotainment system was able to sleep for weeks on battery power, always instantly resumed to the centrafuse software interface.
doitright said:
That seems like a lot of parts and expense for very little gain.
Wouldn't it be easier to just put a switch or a timer on the ign line into the radio?
EDIT:
Like this;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Circuit...-delay-relay-Turn-on-off-switch-/131776109221
So for $3, it will hold the IGN line powered when IGN source is terminated, adjustable for anything between 0.1 seconds and 1 hour. Now when you go and fill up your gas tank, the radio stays on, but if you leave the car parked overnight, it will still do a full bootup the next morning.
EDIT2: This $5 unit is better;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LED...itch-Relay-ON-OFF-Module-12-24V-/262503313875
1) it will accept a higher voltage range, safe for car 14.5 volt.
2) it accepts a separate power and trigger input, meaning that it is a DIGITAL timer rather than analog timer that is potentially sensitive to temperature.
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Click to collapse
If i were to do something like the second unit that you posted, how long would you think would be the most amount of time to allow the radio to stay on safely (with the screen off) before it negatively affects the car's battery (either the battery dying, or doing longterm damage to the battery). Thanks!
In fact probably radio should go down after 3 days in stand by. Then battery will still more than fine and 3 days is a long time to no impact slow starting.
I think it's absolutely absurd that these head units simply do not have a built in standby power supply keeping them in a sleep state rather than shutting down entirely.
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Click to collapse
Amen to that, Brother. I’ve seen extremely fast startups with the AVH series from Pioneer, on the order of 2-3 seconds, but those lack the versatility of these android units and the more recent ones tend to be comparatively expensive.
The “big-label” android units like the NEX series are reportedly buggy, expensive and not terribly friendly towards you running anything else other than a handful of their approved apps. They are not truly universal in their approach, so we are stuck working around the limitations of the current crop of android stereos until better, faster technology shows up on the doorstep soon.
Hopefully "soon" really does mean soon.
Below I'll list a few questions and answers about this modification project, as asked by another member:
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What Rom do you have installed? And what kind of radio do you have?
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Click to collapse
The radio I have is a Pumpkin Auto KD-C0248. It uses the RK3188 quad core CPU, and it has 800 x 480 resolution on a 7” touchscreen, and it is ultimately manufactured by “Klyde”. You might find here: https://www.amazon.com/Pumpkin-Universal-Navigation-Steering-Mirror-link/dp/B015PZVRXS/
It works okay, I don’t have a lot of complaints about it, except that I would’ve preferred a volume knob rather than the push buttons for volume adjustment. Strangely enough the volume buttons are on the right hand side of the unit, even though I own a left-hand drive vehicle. This means I have to reach across the screen to push buttons for volume up or volume down. Since I have this wired into the volume controls on the steering wheel this isn’t too big of a deal, but if I did not have the steering wheel controls it would become a real pain.
This model comes with a DVD player, and in retrospect, now having the option of loading music from the microSD card or a USB drive, I realize I no longer need the DVD. It’s somewhat superfluous at this juncture in the technology’s development.
Knowing what I now know, I would instead recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pumpkin-Universal-Muti-touch-Navigation-Bluetooth/dp/B0151KNXJ8/ or maybe this: http://xtrons.com/td695ab-6-95-inch...ayer-with-screen-mirroring-function-obd2.html
In other words avoid radios that don’t have a volume knob. It lacks ergonomics to be driving down the road and having to look over to adjust the volume, and in my opinion it is also somewhat dangerous.
I use the Malysk ROM, the latest version, and I must say it is a night and day difference between the stock ROM and this. It’s a hair slower in the loading (if coming up from a cold boot) but the added bells and whistles more than make it worth it.
This ROM comes with built-in ad blocking as a system setting, five different home screen launchers I can choose from, and a handful of aftermarket music players built-in by default, including JetAudio and PowerAmp (demo).
Note that I am using the android 4.4.4 ROM here. I could download the 5.1.1 android lollipop ROM for this radio, but android 5 is slower than android 4. There is more lines of code involved. See here for further information: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUZjOGIV7zg
Additionally, this RK3188 processor is about one third slower than a galaxy S4 CPU (snapdragon 600 CPU). For what we are doing with a radio, android 4 is just fine. If this were smart phone, I’d want the latest operating system instead.
Please see attached pictures: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=68082412#post68082412
Can you switch your radio in standby or off?
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Click to collapse
I have not yet installed a hard switch, so this is on at all times. When I push the power button on the radio, it goes into a standby mode, fed by the auxiliary battery when the car is off. Boot up is just a few seconds. Because my battery isolator unit works a little bit too well, and because I purchased a small, cheap readily available UPS battery, I have to recharge the secondary battery every few days. I already own a battery charger, but the small size of the battery means it requires somewhat frequent maintenance, and this is a hassle. If I had a larger battery, or a regular car battery in the auxiliary battery box, this would be happening nearly as much.
I also think that my amplifier consume a lot of battery when connecting directly from the main battery. So i want to connect this after the ignition key.
I thought you've had installed a rechargeble battery? Does it recharge when driving the car?
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Click to collapse
I have indeed install the rechargeable battery, is a typical led-acid battery, fully sealed, and these are what is frequently used in UPS’s. It does recharge it a little bit when driving, although not as much as I would like.
How many time do you have to recharge the extra battery?
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Click to collapse
I figure I have to recharge the battery about once or twice a week, depending on how frequently I am driving, and how far. Again, I have a very small capacity battery in here 18 AHr only, this is about 1/6th the capacity of a regular car battery. So I have to recharge it more than I would like.
I had previously done what I will suggest you when I was running in amplifier in my car, namely I had purchased a much larger battery, what is referred to as a deep cycle marine battery. This means it is specifically used in small personal fishing boats the power an electric propeller motor that won’t disturb the fish.
Here is one example: https://www.amazon.com/100Ah-SOLAR-WIND-CYCLE-BATTERY/dp/B00S1RT58C/
This this battery is meant to go a long time between recharges, and to discharge quite a bit between charges. With something like this in the trunk of my old car, and running a 1200-watt amplifier and (2x) 15” subwoofers in a sealed box, I could go one to two weeks between recharges. I would simply park the car in the garage, hook the battery charger up to the auxiliary battery terminals, let it charge all night while I sleep, then put everything back as it should be and hit the road in the morning. I did this for a few years. It worked fine.
Again, it’s a lot of running around to work around what is, in my opinion, a latent fault with these car stereos, but if you’re serious about your music, and you like the insurance of having an extra battery for jump starts in your trunk, then this is the way to go.
Power Consumption Figures
Addendum 9/3/16:
I wanted to relate that the initial battery size was really not adequate for my needs in this affair. The 18 amp-hour battery would discharge in a matter of days, to the point where it was no longer doing its intended job. I would have to recharge the battery about two times per week. This is not acceptable.
So today I went out and purchased a marine deep-cycle battery with about 500 CCA. I’m not quite clear on the amp-hour rating. This was about $80, plus tax.
More importantly, I went on to eBay and for around $10 I purchased a very small, cheap power meter with a simple wiring set up. I wired this into the output circuit from the battery isolator to the radio, so I could see what the actual power draw is for this set up.
My results are as follows:
At start-up we see about 3 Watts being consumed, 0.25 amperes of current, plus or minus a little bit.
When the radio is fully booted up, the screen is on, and music is playing, we see about 10 W of power consumption.
When the radio is in a standby mode, after you’ve hit the power button and the screen is off and the radio is about as “turned off” as it’s going to get, we see around 1 W of power consumption.
Mind you, this is a RockChip 3188 CPU, and the power usage will be similar across all brands that use this CPU.
As I’ve emphasized earlier, the advantage of this set up with the (now larger) battery is you can run a large amplifier and subwoofers off of it, without potentially taxing your electrical system.
Otherwise if you’re going to run a powerful car radio, you have to buy a larger battery and a larger alternator to go with it. This may not be everybody’s cup of tea.
:good:
Hi - been away from the forums for a three months now - been v busy with work, but was following this thread and really like your attempt here.
It's got be thinking on a few things - especially your last post with actual measurement of power usage.
It's raised a couple of interesting points for me.
The first is effect on your standard car battery if left on all the time. My car battery is a 72Ah, 12V, so please correct me if I'm wrong - but does this make it 864Wh. Therefore, at 1W draw, the car battery would support it for 36 days? Now I imagine that a car battery would need to have a reasonable level of juice in it to start a car so it's not like you could leave it for (e.g.) 35 days and still expect it to start but if you were leaving the device on overnight/out of working hours (i.e. not weeks on end), on this basis it shouldn't really kill your battery.
Further thoughts I had was
1) could there be some kind of software mod to make the power off function on the radio even more power efficient and so it really be a minimal drain on apps. I think this is what QuickBoot does on Cyanogen, but possibly it could be done by throttling the CPU, airplane mode and greenifying the apps. If the power usage was halved etc, then it really could be inconsequential relative to the standard car battery.
2) Maybe a rechargeable 'powerbank' could be used instead of the battery you have. Along the lines of say this 12V 23000mAh one which I think could sustain the head unit for almost 300 hours if 0.08A are drawn or 12V 10000mAh one which I think could do 125 hours if 0.08A are drawn - if the discharge side of this could switch on when the car ignition is switched off, but it plugged into a ciggy lighter (which are only on when the car is on in my car), then it would charge when the car is on and discharge when the car is off. Not sure how feasible/tricky that is.. ,also found this which seems to be able to do the switching required...
Ok, so the newer head units (i.e. with Intel) are much more able to deal with the momentary "off" situation that is caused by starting the engine -- essentially, they have a WORKING shutdown delay, that is effective right from initial power blip.
They also start up a lot faster (around 10-15 seconds FULL BOOT).
I recall an interesting feature that was introduced by Parrot into Asteroid Smart; it had an advanced startup. In the case of the Parrot, it was based on a motion sensor in the unit -- when it sensed you opening the door, it would begin its power up.
Now while these chinese units don't have motion sensors, we could actually do something else that would give it an advanced startup -- hook the ignition switch line into the INSIDE LIGHTS of the car -- you open the door, the lights come on, the radio starts booting, you sit down, stick the key in, start the engine, and guess what? Its booted!
This modification will require a couple of DIODES. Run the inside lights circuit through a diode to the IGN input to the car radio. Run also the car IGN source through a diode to the IGN input of the car radio. Without the diodes, the ignition would turn on the lights, and the lights would power on all kinds of things you don't want powered on.
For an older unit, the same kind of thing would work, IF you combine it with the capacitor shutdown delay hack -- software hacks won't work since the unit won't be booted far enough for the software hack to actually run. And while it might not be enough time to fully boot an older unit, it will at least shave a bunch of time off of it.
Parrot Asteroid --> Android™ 2.3 platform :/
and you shouldn't power your HU from the lights circuit not mentioning that when they are off, the HU would be off too.....
It could be done by using a relay and lights circuit as a trigger, but not as a power source itself.
doitright said:
Ok, so the newer head units (i.e. with Intel) are much more able to deal with the momentary "off" situation that is caused by starting the engine -- essentially, they have a WORKING shutdown delay, that is effective right from initial power blip.
They also start up a lot faster (around 10-15 seconds FULL BOOT).
I recall an interesting feature that was introduced by Parrot into Asteroid Smart; it had an advanced startup. In the case of the Parrot, it was based on a motion sensor in the unit -- when it sensed you opening the door, it would begin its power up.
Now while these chinese units don't have motion sensors, we could actually do something else that would give it an advanced startup -- hook the ignition switch line into the INSIDE LIGHTS of the car -- you open the door, the lights come on, the radio starts booting, you sit down, stick the key in, start the engine, and guess what? Its booted!
This modification will require a couple of DIODES. Run the inside lights circuit through a diode to the IGN input to the car radio. Run also the car IGN source through a diode to the IGN input of the car radio. Without the diodes, the ignition would turn on the lights, and the lights would power on all kinds of things you don't want powered on.
For an older unit, the same kind of thing would work, IF you combine it with the capacitor shutdown delay hack -- software hacks won't work since the unit won't be booted far enough for the software hack to actually run. And while it might not be enough time to fully boot an older unit, it will at least shave a bunch of time off of it.
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Click to collapse
oscyp said:
Parrot Asteroid --> Android™ 2.3 platform :/
and you shouldn't power your HU from the lights circuit not mentioning that when they are off, the HU would be off too.....
It could be done by using a relay and lights circuit as a trigger, but not as a power source itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like this line of thinking... so could you set it so if the lights are on OR the ign line is on, then the run that output as the new IGN feed to the radio?
And I might be getting confused here, but I thought the HU takes it power directly from the Fuse board, but the ignition feed effectively triggers it on - or is it actually drawing quite a bit of current from the ignition feed?
Or, sticking with doitright suggestion, how about a motion sensor like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motion-detector-kit-n27fl located low so it picks up the driver footwell, somehow reset it though.
Or an electrical contact switch on the driver door that can sense it opening when the ignition is off?
Might be some kind of alternate switch idea which would work?
Mr Bigglesworth said:
Or, sticking with doitright suggestion, how about a motion sensor like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motion-detector-kit-n27fl located low so it picks up the driver footwell, somehow reset it though.
Or an electrical contact switch on the driver door that can sense it opening when the ignition is off?
Might be some kind of alternate switch idea which would work?
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Click to collapse
Any trigger + relay circuit would be good. No big deal.
Mr Bigglesworth said:
I like this line of thinking... so could you set it so if the lights are on OR the ign line is on, then the run that output as the new IGN feed to the radio?
And I might be getting confused here, but I thought the HU takes it power directly from the Fuse board, but the ignition feed effectively triggers it on - or is it actually drawing quite a bit of current from the ignition feed?
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Click to collapse
It is NOT drawing ANY (measurable) current from the IGN line. At most, it is just enough current to activate a BJT. If China decided to spend the extra 0.001 cents, then they used an FET, and the current is zero. All of its current is through the radio fuse, which remains powered up full time, as long as the car's battery is installed and has charge.
Yes, that is what I'm talking about. Just OR it with the inside lights and make sure there is no backflow.
---------- Post added at 02:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:51 PM ----------
Mr Bigglesworth said:
Or, sticking with doitright suggestion, how about a motion sensor like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motion-detector-kit-n27fl located low so it picks up the driver footwell, somehow reset it though.
Or an electrical contact switch on the driver door that can sense it opening when the ignition is off?
Might be some kind of alternate switch idea which would work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is what I'm talking about. What do you think causes the inside lights to turn on when you open the door?!!!!
I am wanting to add some type of GPS tracking to my enclosed trailer. I know there are companies that make them but they are either designed for fleets or very cost prohibitive. The main reason is I am going on a long trip soon and will have to leave the trailer disconnected for a short period of time. I do plan to use all the normal anti-theft devices for trailers but I want a way to find my stuff if something bad were to happen.
I have thought of using one of the dozens of android phones I have laying around, get a prepay plan for a month, and set it up in the trailer hidden somewhere. My issue with this is the battery life. I just need it to do the "find my phone" but even standby time is not that great on the older phones I have laying around. I'd need something like a battery pack that could be charged and power a device at the same time. So once I disconnect from the trailer and it loses power the battery pack can power the phone until it is depleted and then the phones battery kicks in. Any thoughts on this? Also I'm concerned about the heat. I'm not sure how hot it will be in the trailer.
Another option I have thought about was using this spare Automatic Pro odb2 gps thingy I have. If I read right I should be able to apply +12v to pin 16 and ground to pin4/5 and it power up. It has a 3g connection built in and GPS. I'm just not sure if it would work without all the other ODB2 signals.
Looks like something that should be posted in
https://forum.xda-developers.com/u/reusing-devices
Sent from my PH-1 using XDA Labs
Hi
I lately noticed that my S10 (G973F on ASH1) battery drain was noticeably higher when using bluetooth and that the drain continues even if I turn off the bluetooth (no, wifi and bluetooth scanning are not enabled). The only way to return to "normal" drain is to reboot the phone with bluetooth off and to not enable it at all.
I did some durability tests the past days with 2 scenarios:
1. Unplug the phone in the morning charged at 100%, ensure the bluetooth is off, reboot the phone and use it the whole day without touching the bluetooth
2. Unplug the phone in the morning charged at 100%, turn on bluetooth, optionally connect to a device, turn off bluetooth, and use the phone the whole day without touching the bluetooth.
My results are (with same usage, apps, conditions...) :
Scenario 1 : Average 8h SOT / 15h uptime
Scenario 2 : Average 5h30 SOT / 15h uptime
I know this is far from being scientific, that's why I call it just a theory. It's up to you to confirm or deny it ...
I totally believe it. The super interesting part to me is that turning it off doesn't affect the battery drain.
I certainly would love to know the reason why that is. Personally i haven't noticed the same thing (atleast as badly).
There's a lot of variables so I'm going to throw out a few theories/guesses (in order of my best to worst guess)
- it has to do with what kind of device you're connecting to... Probably a device that wakes up a background service of some sort (that doesn't ever sleep properly, so most likely a Samsung system service) is it something like a Samsung gear device or Galaxy buds? Anything Samsung?
- I know you already mentioned device scanning is off, i assume you're referring to the Samsung setting, but there are device scanning settings tucked away in the Google settings.
- some rogue app is glitching in the background, it sees Bluetooth is on, so keeps trying to peak at what's going on and scan for beacons or something like that. Best guess is Facebook. But it could be many others.
All in all, its almost certainly not Bluetooth itself, but rather something that's too active in the background and keeps trying to sneak a look at Bluetooth connections.
Install better battery stats, run the adb commands to set up for non-root. That should tell you what's waking your phone so often.
Nye-uhls said:
I totally believe it. The super interesting part to me is that turning it off doesn't affect the battery drain.
I certainly would love to know the reason why that is. Personally i haven't noticed the same thing (atleast as badly).
There's a lot of variables so I'm going to throw out a few theories/guesses (in order of my best to worst guess)
- it has to do with what kind of device you're connecting to... Probably a device that wakes up a background service of some sort (that doesn't ever sleep properly, so most likely a Samsung system service) is it something like a Samsung gear device or Galaxy buds? Anything Samsung?
- I know you already mentioned device scanning is off, i assume you're referring to the Samsung setting, but there are device scanning settings tucked away in the Google settings.
- some rogue app is glitching in the background, it sees Bluetooth is on, so keeps trying to peak at what's going on and scan for beacons or something like that. Best guess is Facebook. But it could be many others.
All in all, its almost certainly not Bluetooth itself, but rather something that's too active in the background and keeps trying to sneak a look at Bluetooth connections.
Install better battery stats, run the adb commands to set up for non-root. That should tell you what's waking your phone so often.
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Click to collapse
Your analysis is pretty logical and I fully agree with it.
I already tried BBS (rooted) and got no convincing results (nearly the same kernel wakelocks, partial wakelocks, etc).
I also sent to samsung a bug report with the dumps and logs needed and should be soon contacted by them for further collaboration if needed.
But while waiting, it will be really a good thing if more users could test the two scenarios I mentioned and post their feedback.
Hey, First thank you for the knowledge. I will try to do that and will give feedback
audianer said:
Hey, First thank you for the knowledge. I will try to do that and will give feedback
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Click to collapse
That would be kind from you
https://www.android-hilfe.de/forum/...e-und-mehr.904568-page-165.html#post-11710349
I posted your idea in a German Android forum. Maybe there are some testers.
audianer said:
https://www.android-hilfe.de/forum/...e-und-mehr.904568-page-165.html#post-11710349
I posted your idea in a German Android forum. Maybe there are some testers.
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Click to collapse
Great idea. Thx :good:
Hey,
sorry your theory is not true.
On the screenshots:
"Ohne BT" meens i restarted the phone in the morning and dont use bluetooth.
"Mit BT" meens i used bluetooth for streaming for some minutes.
audianer said:
Hey,
sorry your theory is not true.
On the screenshots:
"Ohne BT" meens i restarted the phone in the morning and dont use bluetooth.
"Mit BT" meens i used bluetooth for streaming for some minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a very well done experimentation ! It's the first case contradicting the theory.
I should have done some similar screenshots before updating to latest ASH6 on which I am unable to reproduce the "bug" ...
But there are very many rely on bluetooth. In the car, smartwatch, etc