Hey guys. I have removed the paint from the glass back of my z5c. But all the adhesives i bought won't stay on (just like the stock ones). Where can i get really good quality adhesives to keep the back from popping off?
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I think you need to heat the glue again to make it set. I would keep a bit of pressure on the back, like a book or something, after you've reheated it to ensure the glue sets in good contact with both surfaces.
But if all else fails I'd probably use a very thin bead of clear hardware silicone.
How did you get the paint off the glass?
lobie81 said:
I think you need to heat the glue again to make it set. I would keep a bit of pressure on the back, like a book or something, after you've reheated it to ensure the glue sets in good contact with both surfaces.
But if all else fails I'd probably use a very thin bead of clear hardware silicone.
How did you get the paint off the glass?
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I have wasted around 3 brands of adhesives (all chinese) precut for z5c. Even the stock adhesive before I replaced it wont stay on. Could this be a design failure?
I havent tried to heat it and apply pressure yet. Might do that when my next batch of adhesives arrive. Do I leave it clamped overnight?
I just scratched/scraped it with a blade (cutter/knife) from the inside as it is also scratch proof. Other brands would have had a layer of plastic you could peel of but not this one. I just scraped everything off.
I haven't replaced mine yet. Waiting for my new battery to arrive. I'm replacing the battery at the same time to ensure the old battery hasn't swelled and could be putting pressure on the glass. That might be your issue too.
But i plan to make sure all the old adhesive is gone, heat up the new back and adhesive well and leave it under a few heavy books at least overnight and maybe for a few days.
lobie81 said:
I haven't replaced mine yet. Waiting for my new battery to arrive. I'm replacing the battery at the same time to ensure the old battery hasn't swelled and could be putting pressure on the glass. That might be your issue too.
But i plan to make sure all the old adhesive is gone, heat up the new back and adhesive well and leave it under a few heavy books at least overnight and maybe for a few days.
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I have also replaced my battery as well. Actually, the battery was the reason i have opened it, aside from the dust under the camera lens. my adhesive still hasn't arrived yet. I will definitely try putting pressure on it overnight and report here.
Marke sure to clean the Glas and the opposide sie at the phone with string cleaner. For the Glas you can usw Aceton, for the phone sie you habe to check if it will survive Aceton. If in doubt, usw a weaker cleaner at the phone.
Related
So, my streak took a tumble. Gutted isn't the word
Anyway, I've ordered a new one from ebay and in preparation, I stripped the streak down...
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What I was wondering is, as I cracked a lot of glue/sticky tape etc on the disassembly, what exactly do I use to replace it?
I'm particularly concerned with properly securing the new glass/digitizer/lcd assembly to the main body of the phone, and also getting the and bezels to stick properly.
any hints appreciated
You dont need anything the 5 little clips keep the screen attached to the board, the back cover clips over the side to keep it all in place, and the side panels just stick back on the double sided sticky tape. Maybe! I think keeping it apart for a longperiod of time dust will collect on the double sided tape, and might make it less sticky, id maybe put the side bits back on until the new screen arrives.
A tape recommendation:
Ace Heavy Duty Carpet Tape Cloth Item #54307 - from this post
marvin02 said:
A tape recommendation:
Ace Heavy Duty Carpet Tape Cloth Item #54307 - from this post
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Took mine apart - replaced the screen - did not bother with any tapes - all fitted fine - no moving parts....the side bezels - used normal sick glue - they stuck fine !
no complaints
more info please...
devdarshan said:
Took mine apart - replaced the screen - did not bother with any tapes - all fitted fine - no moving parts....the side bezels - used normal sick glue - they stuck fine !
no complaints
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Sick glue? Do you mean plain ole elmers glue stick? Like my kids use in school? Please elaborate...
another source for screen
BTW,
Got my screen from amazon. $49.99 free shipping with amazon prime. Most importantly have the reputation that amazon will have their customer's back if there is an issue.
Thanks for the tips guys, I will try reassembling without tape/glue on the screen and let you know how I get on. Hopefully my screen will arrive today
It's Alive !!
All went together fine although the bezels aren't as secure as I'd like so will (at some point) clean off all the old tape and replace with new - once I find some suitable.
It's not desperate though as I use an Otterbox commuter case, and they're held in place by that (not that they're falling-off loose, just not quite stuck firm).
VERY pleased to have my streak back.
cheers everyone,
malty
cingulartreo said:
Sick glue? Do you mean plain ole elmers glue stick? Like my kids use in school? Please elaborate...
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Sorry - yes normal glue sick (used in school) - I have used that and no problems so far
For anyone who owns a Speck Candyshell (like me) I'm sure they know that the case can become slippery when your hands are sweaty or oily so I thought of an old trick that I have used for other things: Plasti Dip!
A couple of coats and 'voila', excellent grip and it's much more scratch resistant. Even the "Speck" logo is still visible (see pics). Just make sure you tape off the openings and anything you don't want sprayed.
Here is a link for Plasti Dip from Home Depot:
http://bit.ly/I2VCHc
You can also find different colors online.
And here are some pics (the photos doesn't do it justice because it actually looks much better then these images):
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Looks good. Did you rough the case up before spraying? got a picture of the front? I wonder how long it will last before it peels...
over2land said:
Looks good. Did you rough the case up before spraying? got a picture of the front? I wonder how long it will last before it peels...
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^ This, I'll be watching here. I have a Speck which, besides being nearly impossible to remove the phone from, I otherwise liked pretty well.
Just cleaned it with warm water and soap then dried. There really wasn't much to show from the front which is why I didn't take any pics. I did spray front and back though. I taped off all the openings from the inside of the case to spray the back and then I cut out a piece of paper the size of the phone and placed it in the case to spray the front.
I was in a hurry yesterday after spraying it so I ripped all the tape and paper off quickly which did leave some rough edges around the openings and only one small spot did it peel back. I would recommend letting sit for the full four hours it's supposed to dry and then use an X-acto knife to cut around the edges for smooth lines. I plan on throwing another coat on when I get my new SD card and I have a reason to remove the case. I will also update the post after some use to let everyone know if it holds up. (Some people use Plasti Dip on external parts of their vehicles and it holds up well against the elements so I think it will do fine)
Also, just an FYI, I cut out the rubber pieces for the power button and volume rocker because I kept accidentally pressing them when holding the phone. I then sanded the areas around the openings to make it easier to reach with my fingers/thumbs. I thought I'd throw that out there in case anyone noticed they looked different.
over2land said:
Looks good. Did you rough the case up before spraying? got a picture of the front? I wonder how long it will last before it peels...
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Thought I'd review one of the cheaper battery cases you might find on your local eBay or on DealExtreme or other similar Chinese/HK e-tailers for about £20-25. I got mine off eBay and it arrived well packed in its own plastic box;
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Only a battery and manual in the box.
Provided manual (Chinese language on other side not photographed)
It has a velvet like backing to help avoid scratching up the back of your phone and uses the magnetic side ports to charge phone. Micro USB charging port is on the bottom.
Camera cutout is in the right place but the plastic is a little cheap, as the light leaking through the body of the case demonstrates. You can sort of see the internals at the right angle.
Doesn't block any buttons or the headphone jack and lower eyelet but covers up the sim/microSD slot which is fine as they are not frequently accessed.
On the downside, it makes it difficult to open the battery charging port on the phone because the little notch to open the door is underneath, and blocked by the case.
For me, the charging notch sits in the gap between my thumb and the phone when I hold the phone as I usually do, so I think it actually helps me grip better.
Despite the flimsy looking leg, it is actually quite stable and doesn't tip as easily as some similar cases I've had for other phones.
And finally, the battery tests, it seems to give me about an 80% charge on two different runs and takes about 2.5 hours to empty. Battery logs below.
Second run;
Conclusion,
It doesn't deliver as much charge is I'd hoped but can nearly double your battery life. The cost is a similar doubling of the overall thickness, but the curved back makes it more comfortable to hold. It also gives me peace of mind that I won't scratch the glass rear. On the downside, the plastic quality is poor and attracts smudges easily but I won't expect the thing to fall apart in your hands.
So if the price is right for you, it seems to work as it should and will easily extend your battery life.
The power case.. or any case for that matter isn't something I'm interested in...
But you've done a great job with this thread. Detailed look at the unit with imagges, and discussed every major point. Nice work!
Hi where did you buy this case?
Thank you for the kind words Hamdogg.
Impetus, I bought mine from here; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261298963835. There are many places which seem to sell a similar product so I may go with whoever can ship it to you quickest or cheapest.
hamdogg said:
The power case.. or any case for that matter isn't something I'm interested in...
But you've done a great job with this thread. Detailed look at the unit with imagges, and discussed every major point. Nice work!
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agree !
I've had my 360 sport for a couple of years now and the band started to break. I fixed it with silicone but it only lasted about two weeks before breaking again. I decided to look for replacements but could not find any satisfactory way of replacing the bands. Since the watch was old and pretty unusable with the wristband broken I decided to try my own method and not be to careful about it...
I cut the bands and glued on lugs that were originally for a Samsung gear S3 (bought from Ali Express for ~$2) onto the watch. It actually worked great and now I can use whatever 22mm straps I want to! Here follows a more detailed description of what I did.
Materials used:
Razor blade, two-part epoxy glue, replacement lugs, replacement bands, small screwdriver (to remove excess parts from the lugs).
Price for entire replacement, lugs, epoxy and new wristband, was about 100 Swedish krona which is about $11.5 at the time of writing.
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Power of the watch
Cut the watchbands close to the watch body
Using the lugs for measurement, cut the watchbands as close as you need to the watch body. (Warning: I carved so close that I carved into some metal, I'm not sure what it is for but my watch works so I gathered ether it was unimportant or I didn't cut deep enough to actually damage anything.)
Ad a bit of epoxy on the lugs and attach them in the correct position on the watch body, I used some tape to secure them while the epoxy dried.
After the first dab of epoxy dried (~10 minutes) I went back and added plenty of epoxy to the gap between the lugs and the watch body. I did this both to secure it more tightly and also to make sure the watch was still waterproof (or at least as waterproof as I could get it).
As my watch was an unattractive orange I used a permanent marker to paint it black with ok results...
Then I was done! The procedure was relatively simple and took about an hour maybe. I would say that the result looks good if your not closer then approximately one foot... The alternative is of course to 3D print a shell for the watch body but I found that ugly and I did not want to make it even more bulky. Overall I think this is a better way of replacing a broken strap. Thus I conclude with some final pictures, good luck to anyone trying!
This is actually awesome, thanks for posting. I can't seem to find those replacement lugs though. Any chance you still have a link?
Lugs
netzer119 said:
This is actually awesome, thanks for posting. I can't seem to find those replacement lugs though. Any chance you still have a link?
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Hi!
I used these lugs: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pcs-Stainless-Steel-Watch-Band-Connector-Adapter-20mm-For-Samsung-Gear-S2-RM-720/32882034607.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.75.7fa5590aX95YmZ&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10068_319_10059_10884_317_10887_10696_321_322_453_10084_454_10083_10103_10618_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_537_536_10902,searchweb201603_55,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=913f528c-c516-43a9-835e-ffc649f36426-10&algo_pvid=913f528c-c516-43a9-835e-ffc649f36426&transAbTest=ae803_4
A word of warning though. My battery life is worse now, the watch usually dies when battery hits 30%, not sure if the lug installment caused this but it might have... If i would do it again I would not cut as deep but rather fill in the gaps between lugs and watch with epoxy.
Hope it works out for you!
//Rasmus
I cut nothing, just install lugs adapter.
I have to remove back ring also, so rubber case will fit.
Hey, how many of these little guys stay up and working?
Today I've opened my carp (42 mm edition) to look at the ports, just to look at the possibility of connecting it via USB for modding, root, flashing ROMs, etc. (so bad there's almost no scene on this device series ) when suddenly a crazy idea just crossed my mind: Why don't try to expose the guts of this old, used (and abused) watch, like those expensive skeleton watches?
So I've inspected carefully the back glass cover and noticed that there was a gluey sticker between the glass and the device itself. After removing the sticker, the glass is exposed and ready for some abuse.
The sticker:
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The next step was to find a way to remove the paint without damaging the glass itself, so I've taken a knife and tried, with success, to gently scratch the paint. TBH, I'm very surprised of the scratching resistance of that glass piece, because you can give it some serious abuse (like fast, hard scratching) without leaving marks on it, so if you try to do this mod you don't need to worry too much about damaging it, just don't apply too much strength and pressure to avoid deep scratches or breaking the glass (if you hold it on your hand or on top of a soft, non-hard surface).
After about 30-40 minutes of scratching paint, I've cleaned the glass with my breath and a cloth, applied some thin double-side tape (aka. smartphone tape, very useful when repairing stuff like that) to fix the glass on place and did the same for the outer plastic ring. Now, here's the result:
As you can see below, the text remains intact, I suppose that is printed deeper inside the glass or something:
Looks pretty nice if you like the look of the bare naked electronics. Aside from that, I feel sorry for that disturbing off-center white ring (I guess it has moved a bit when I've put the glass back on the watch) and that wire that separated from the charging coil when I oppened the watch. Maybe I'll fix it one day. Cheers.
EDIT: I've done a WatchMaker watchface matching the skeleton style of my back cover. Here's a picture, I've attached the .watch file for anyone to use it:
Very nice mod! Will be replacing the battery on my 42mm soon and will have to give this a go.