charging speed mod? - LG V30 Questions & Answers

Is there a charging speed mod to increase the speed when the phone is on the charger and using the phone?
Now on boombox 1.3 rom and getting 1A

Try asking in the BoomBox thread. This is something that, if possible, probably needs to be built in with the ROM.
You can also try plugging in a dumb/non-QC charger capable of >1.5a output (for example a tablet charger); that may bypass the limit and charge at 1.3/1.5/1.8a or whatever the V30 supports at 5v. Charging speed is a decision made on the phone end, but if it only "sees" a basic charging mode instead of QC communication it might kick the speed up a bit.
Keep in mind that the charging rate is limited with the screen on to reduce the amount of heat that the battery has to dissipate. If you manage to charge the phone at full speed while also running the screen and processor, particularly the latter under load and pouring out more heat, it'll increase the rate that your battery ages. Li-ion batteries really don't like heat.

Ok after searching a long time I have found where lg did hide the charging restriction
Sys/module/lge_power_class_charging_controller
If you put the parameter for restricted_charging to LCD OFF you will get quick charge when also using the phone.
But Android changes this parameter back once the device goes to sleep. How can I make this parameter stay or even remove the module?
Thanks #2.4Aftw

rollingstone321 said:
Ok after searching a long time I have found where lg did hide the charging restriction
Sys/module/lge_power_class_charging_controller
If you put the parameter for restricted_charging to LCD OFF you will get quick charge when also using the phone.
But Android changes this parameter back once the device goes to sleep. How can I make this parameter stay or even remove the module?
Thanks #2.4Aftw
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You really don't want to mess with this. As another person pointed out, these batteries hate heat. You will just kill your device faster.
Sent from my LG-H932 using XDA Labs

rollingstone321 said:
Ok after searching a long time I have found where lg did hide the charging restriction
Sys/module/lge_power_class_charging_controller
If you put the parameter for restricted_charging to LCD OFF you will get quick charge when also using the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice find. I'm happy to be proven wrong.
rollingstone321 said:
But Android changes this parameter back once the device goes to sleep. How can I make this parameter stay or even remove the module?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try setting it to read-only. I'm not sure if this will persist the setting after reboot, though. This might also have the unintended effect of forcing the charging restriction to happen while the screen is off, as "LCD OFF" suggests; have you tried seeing what happens if you blank the setting instead?
Alternatively you could write the setting each time the screen is turned on with a simple Tasker, AutomateIt, etc script. The free version of AutomateIt would be more than sufficient for this.
BROKEN1981 said:
You really don't want to mess with this. As another person pointed out, these batteries hate heat. You will just kill your device faster.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the bright side, V30 batteries are already available cheaply on eBay, and the phone isn't all that difficult to open up...

Septfox said:
On the bright side, V30 batteries are already available cheaply on eBay, and the phone isn't all that difficult to open up...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once opened you kill the water resistant.
Sent from my LG-H932 using XDA Labs

BROKEN1981 said:
Once opened you kill the water resistant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A tube of RTV silicon sealant (clear) or high-temp gasket maker (black, orange, blue, etc) is something like $5-$7 at your friendly neighborhood auto parts store. Or Walmart, probably cheaper there.
I really don't understand why people make such a huge deal out of the back cover seal on glass-backed phones. It's flat surface against flat surface, clean'em up and re-seal with a thin bead of sealant, wipe off the excess, let cure overnight.
Heck, you could probably even use hot-glue if you were quick about it or had a hair dryer trained on the phone to keep the glue warm while you worked. This would have the advantage of the back being easily removed again later with the use of a hair dryer or heat gun to re-melt the glue.

Septfox said:
Nice find. I'm happy to be proven wrong.
Try setting it to read-only. I'm not sure if this will persist the setting after reboot, though. This might also have the unintended effect of forcing the charging restriction to happen while the screen is off, as "LCD OFF" suggests; have you tried seeing what happens if you blank the setting instead? .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Leaving it blank freezes the phone, same with '0' or 'disable'. So LCD OFF is only option for now. But I rather have fast charge while I m using Waze in the car and be able to charge till 100% fast, and slow charging at night.
I will try with Tasker (good suggestion) .

Seems like changing the parameter to LCD OFF and setting the file to only read did the trick
Thanks @Septfox

Have you tried a different kernel that supports fast charge? I'm thinking it's baked into the kernel.

rollingstone321 said:
Seems like changing the parameter to LCD OFF and setting the file to only read did the trick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does your charging still work at full speed when the screen is off?
I was looking at Lunar kernel, which is built on LG's source (well, I assume). Here is the code to determine current limitation:
Code:
static int restricted_charging_find_current(int reason, int status)
{
int chg_curr;
if (!the_cc)
return -EINVAL;
switch (reason) {
case LGCC_REASON_LCD:
if (status == RESTRICTED_CHG_STATUS_ON) {
the_cc->lcd_status = true;
chg_curr = RESTRICTED_CHG_CURRENT_1000;
} else {
the_cc->lcd_status = false;
chg_curr = -EINVAL;
}
break;
case LGCC_REASON_CALL:
if (status == RESTRICTED_CHG_STATUS_ON)
chg_curr = RESTRICTED_CHG_CURRENT_500;
else
chg_curr = -EINVAL;
break;
case LGCC_REASON_TDMB:
if (status == RESTRICTED_CHG_STATUS_MODE1)
chg_curr = RESTRICTED_CHG_CURRENT_500;
else if (status == RESTRICTED_CHG_STATUS_MODE2)
chg_curr = RESTRICTED_CHG_CURRENT_500;
else
chg_curr = -EINVAL;
break;
case LGCC_REASON_UHD_RECORD:
if (status == RESTRICTED_CHG_STATUS_ON) {
the_cc->uhd_record = 1;
if (delayed_work_pending(&the_cc->uhd_record_work)
|| delayed_work_pending(&the_cc->uhd_record_disable_work)) {
cancel_delayed_work_sync(&the_cc->uhd_record_disable_work);
} else {
queue_delayed_work(system_power_efficient_wq,
&the_cc->uhd_record_work, DELAY_FOR_UHD_RECORD_PERIOD);
}
} else {
the_cc->uhd_record = 0;
queue_delayed_work(system_power_efficient_wq,
&the_cc->uhd_record_disable_work, DELAY_FOR_UHD_RECORD_DISABLE_PERIOD);
}
chg_curr = RESTRICTED_CHG_CURRENT_500;
break;
case LGCC_REASON_MIRACAST:
if (status == RESTRICTED_CHG_STATUS_ON)
chg_curr = RESTRICTED_CHG_CURRENT_500;
else
chg_curr = -EINVAL;
break;
case LGCC_REASON_DEFAULT:
default:
chg_curr = CHG_CURRENT_MAX;
restricted_chg_unvote_all();
break;
}
return chg_curr;
}
restricted_charging is set by this, I think:
Code:
static int restricted_charging_param_set(const char *val, const struct kernel_param *kp)
{
char *s = strstrip((char *)val);
char *voter_name, *voter_status;
int chg_curr, name, status, ret;
if (s == NULL) {
pr_err("Restrict charging param is NULL! \n");
return -EINVAL;
}
pr_info("Restricted charging param = %s \n", s);
ret = param_set_charp(val, kp);
if (ret) {
pr_err("Error setting param %d\n", ret);
return ret;
}
voter_name = strsep(&s, " ");
voter_status = s;
name = restricted_charging_find_name(voter_name);
status = restricted_charging_find_status(voter_status);
if (name == -EINVAL || status == -EINVAL) {
pr_err("Restrict charging param is invalid! \n");
return -EINVAL;
}
chg_curr = restricted_charging_find_current(name, status);
pr_info("voter_name = %s[%d], voter_status = %s[%d], chg_curr = %d \n",
voter_name, name, voter_status, status, chg_curr);
lgcc_vote_fcc(name, chg_curr);
lge_power_changed(&the_cc->lge_cc_lpc);
return 0;
}
...and then read, and acted on by the first batch of code.
So forcing it to read-only should effectively keep the charging limit disabled, I think, because the module reads restricted_charging and assumes that the screen is off. If you're still able to charge at full speed with the screen off, that would confirm it.
A possibly undesirable side-effect: this probably also disables the module's ability to reduce the charge rate in response to excessive heat. Be careful.

Septfox said:
Does your charging still work at full speed when the screen is off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try in a bit with the screen off, how long it takes. I don't have an 'ampere-voltage reading cable'.
I also looked at kernels but none that i have found seem to have this feature
Phone doesn't seem to heat up when quick charging and using the phone (With my axon 7 it really became warm).
So I think this mod is a nice addition to the v30. I love being able to sit in front of the tv, use my phone and still see it charging. With the LG charging restriction it just stayed at a certain level if it was above a certain percentage.
I have an engineering background but further then rooting and installing rom's I never went, so if someone wants to further explorer this mod be my guest.
I was also thinking: would it be dangerous to delete the whole module? I tried but because it is in \sys , android won't let me delete it even after giving it all the permissions with solidexplorer

Septfox said:
Does your charging still work at full speed when the screen is off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
will check tonight by just charging the phone and measuring how long it takes to go to 100% ( i don't have an 'ampere-voltage-reading-cable')
The phone doesn't get warm when charging and using the phone (with my axon 7 it really went hot when quick charging and using the phone).
I looked at kernels, but none that i have found had the feature of quick charging with lcd on
I have an engineering degree, but normally i just root my phone and install roms. So if anyone wants to make this into a flashable mod, be my guest.
On another note, i was thinking: would it be harmful to delete the whole lge-charging-restriction module? I tried to do it but android won't let me delete things that are in \sys (even when i made it writable with solidexplorer: chad 777). So any thoughts how to make this mod more awesome?

Yea, my Droid Turbo's battery gets quite warm while charging, and the old SD 805 generates a lot of heat under load. Doing much more than browsing can get it to uncomfortably hot; I was actually worried this past summer when using it with GMaps and Waze on the charger, to the point that I made a little AutomateIt script to cap the CPU speed down.
Then again, Motorola's idea of cooling in that phone was "eh, just slap a bit of copper tape on top of the SoC, it'll be fine", whereas the V30 has an actual heat pipe connected to the frame...
So yep, I was a bit worried when you said you wanted to charge and use Waze at the same time. In hindsight it was silly, the newer Snapdragons are much more efficient even compared to the 820 in your Axon 7, and QC 3.0 is designed to decrease the heat produced by charging.
rollingstone321 said:
I was also thinking: would it be dangerous to delete the whole module? I tried but because it is in \sys , android won't let me delete it even after giving it all the permissions with solidexplorer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you can just yank out kernel modules after the kernel is already compiled. You could get the kernel source and remove the module, then compile yourself a custom kernel, but it seems like it's not worth the trouble.
If you find a kernel on XDA that you end up liking, you could suggest to the dev for it that they implement a toggle (or just outright remove the module). But I think for personal use, assuming it's charging properly, what you're doing now is probably the best option.
Regarding testing while screen is off, or just in general, 3C Battery Monitor might be useful.

Related

[Q] Someone, who can raise charging limitations in kernel?

Hello,
please, is here someone, who can make kernel with raised charging amperage limitations?
Or is there some kernel with this feature?
Thank you very much!
h4wk3y said:
Hello,
please, is here someone, who can make kernel with raised charging amperage limitations?
Or is there some kernel with this feature?
Thank you very much!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also interested in this!
I did asking this, because i am using Navigon for Navigation in my car and while i am on the Car Charger (Original Samsung 0.7A and other brands, even one with 2.1 Amps output current) my device is still discharging (it says AC charging, not USB) and empty after about 4 hours.
So i have to limit my CPU frequency to 800 Mhz manually, then it keeps the actual charge and goes only a litte up or down.
Did not understand why Samsung limit this so much at an Energy-hungry beast like the SGS2 ???
Never had this issues on HTC devices...
Greetz Tokl
I just want to say that it may not be in everybody's best interest to do this for two reasons:
a) The faster a battery is charged, the more quickly it will discharge. A slower 0.65amp charge will make the battery last a little longer unplugged before it needs charging again
b) I believe Samsung implemented this limitation to reduce the heat. This is important for your hands and for the battery itself. Batteries wear out a lot quicker at high temperatures.
danieldeanhodge said:
I just want to say that it may not be in everybody's best interest to do this for two reasons:
a) The faster a battery is charged, the more quickly it will discharge. A slower 0.65amp charge will make the battery last a little longer unplugged before it needs charging again
b) I believe Samsung implemented this limitation to reduce the heat. This is important for your hands and for the battery itself. Batteries wear out a lot quicker at high temperatures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree fully with you,
Battery lifetime will maybe decreased, and the Battery will not last 5 Years (maybe only 1).
But for me, this doesn't matter that much.
The problem is that Samsung is doing the Charging part totally different like HTC (that i was used to before).
I never had an HTC Phone at an Charger and while using it, the Battery is going down
So there must be an way to prevent the SGS2 from sucking the Battery down while Navigon runs and its plugged to an charger
I did see this issue also on some Games... Crazy
I think must be the reason why h4wk3y asks for this?
P.S.:
The Phone was not going to be to hot -> I have the Air condition direct to the Phone, so the Battery temperature was around 30-35°C
Greetz Tokl
I would like faster charging myself but it gives me pause that samsung limited the charging as they did. I cant know why they did specifically but I have to figure it was not without reason.
There's some non-standard wiring in the USB socket of the Galaxy tab which causes it to only trickle charge from anything other than the official chargers. I'm wondering if that's the case with the S2.
My mate bought me a cheap adapter off ebay that means you can charge properly from USB connections, so maybe that could be an answer (if it's the same problem).
Here's a thread discussing it and instructions on a DIY version...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=975558&highlight=adapter
johncmolyneux said:
There's some non-standard wiring in the USB socket of the Galaxy tab which causes it to only trickle charge from anything other than the official chargers. I'm wondering if that's the case with the S2.
My mate bought me a cheap adapter off ebay that means you can charge properly from USB connections, so maybe that could be an answer (if it's the same problem).
Here's a thread discussing it and instructions on a DIY version...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=975558&highlight=adapter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks M8,
i will give it a try - maybe Samsung did the same at the S2
I modified my cables like described here, so the phone knows its not an normal USB port and switch to AC charging, but this is only soldering an bridge between 2 pins...
EDIT:
I modded my cable with the 10k and 33k resistor and tried this, .... with no luck Its (dis)charging like before, no difference
Greetz Tokl
i think someone should compile their own test kernel with the current raised, and do some testing. just to see. the code is there, someone just needs to set up a build environment for the SGS2.
sure, it likely was related to heat issues. and slower charging supposedly reduces wear on batteries. but many other phones charge at 1 amp. so why not give it a try?
PHP:
if (enable) { /* Enable charging */
switch (info->cable_type) {
case CABLE_TYPE_USB:
val_type.intval = POWER_SUPPLY_STATUS_CHARGING;
val_chg_current.intval = 450; /* mA */
break;
case CABLE_TYPE_AC:
val_type.intval = POWER_SUPPLY_STATUS_CHARGING;
val_chg_current.intval = 650; /* mA */
break;
case CABLE_TYPE_MISC:
val_type.intval = POWER_SUPPLY_STATUS_CHARGING;
val_chg_current.intval = 450; /* mA */
break;
default:
just edit that code and compile.
RogerPodacter said:
i think someone should compile their own test kernel with the current raised, and do some testing. just to see. the code is there, someone just needs to set up a build environment for the SGS2.
sure, it likely was related to heat issues. and slower charging supposedly reduces wear on batteries. but many other phones charge at 1 amp. so why not give it a try?
PHP:
if (enable) { /* Enable charging */
switch (info->cable_type) {
case CABLE_TYPE_USB:
val_type.intval = POWER_SUPPLY_STATUS_CHARGING;
val_chg_current.intval = 450; /* mA */
break;
case CABLE_TYPE_AC:
val_type.intval = POWER_SUPPLY_STATUS_CHARGING;
val_chg_current.intval = 650; /* mA */
break;
case CABLE_TYPE_MISC:
val_type.intval = POWER_SUPPLY_STATUS_CHARGING;
val_chg_current.intval = 450; /* mA */
break;
default:
just edit that code and compile.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Man!
"just edit that code and compile" and the Problem begins, for an Linux Noob like me
I did some research for Kernel compiling, but most of them ended because while im using Windows as my desktop and not Linux...
Im unsure because i use the Stock KE2 Firmware,
is this different from the Link to the Kernel you gave me?
Or better, how to make this into the *.tar File to flash with Odin (the only way i tested/flashed so far)
I think there is no possibility to edit those values directly on the Device without flashing?
OK, im sure this are Noob questions for you, but i get lost...
Thanks again!
Greetz Tokl
Tokl said:
Thanks Man!
"just edit that code and compile" and the Problem begins, for an Linux Noob like me
I did some research for Kernel compiling, but most of them ended because while im using Windows as my desktop and not Linux...
Im unsure because i use the Stock KE2 Firmware,
is this different from the Link to the Kernel you gave me?
Or better, how to make this into the *.tar File to flash with Odin (the only way i tested/flashed so far)
I think there is no possibility to edit those values directly on the Device without flashing?
OK, im sure this are Noob questions for you, but i get lost...
Thanks again!
Greetz Tokl
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nope, there is no way to change this on the device itself, it has to be compiled from source. i had the same question when i was a noob too, no worries.
last year i wanted to change some battery driver stuff, so i finally was forced to follow the wiki guide, setup linux, sync the android source code, then edit the code and compile, flash to device.
i used the cyanogen wiki for nexus one. so those steps would be similar, but just need to use the SGS2 source instead. i dont own an SGS2 to really help with details. i would just look in the dev section here, and find the threads about source repo etc.
its not gonna be easy. it IS easy for the nexus one because there is a step by step guide on how to do it in linux, so i followed that.
side note: if you are noob and using windows, just use the program called virtual machine to install ubuntu 10 onto a VM. that is exactly how i did it for the n1, and is easily the fastest way to get started. just install VM program. then grab the latest ubuntu iso and install to the VM. then you are set to start following the steps if you can find them.
EDIT: sorry i meant VirtualBox, that's the name of the program. or VMware is another one people use. i used VirtualBox though.

[Q] CM10: keep screen off when plugging/unplugging from (wireless OR wired) charge

I have 2 questions regarding this matter:
1) Could someone explain why if the current CM10 build I have on my GS3 (10-20121201-NIGHTLY-i9300) apparently has the value for config_unplugTurnsOnScreen set to false (according to the current github file: https://github.com/CyanogenMod/android_frameworks_base/blob/jellybean/core/res/res/values/config.xml), but still the screen turns on when unplugging from charge?
2) I actually also want this to happen when starting to charge (so that the screen keeps off when put to charge instead of turning on...), yet I didn't find a config_plugTurnsOnScreen configuration... Does anyone know where else (and if) this option could be found and tinkered with?
As a side note, I have modded my gs3 with the touchstone wireless charging trick and I put it on and off the touchstone charging base quite oftenly and would like to prevent it from turning on the screen each time I put it to charge or remove it from charging... maybe there's a general android option that handles wireless charging options so that the screen is not affected on those events? (something like these WebOS options intended for the original use of the touchstone on WebOS: http://www.webosnation.com/keep-screen-while-touchstone)
Thanks!
rgonzruiz said:
I have 2 questions regarding this matter:
1) Could someone explain why if the current CM10 build I have on my GS3 (10-20121201-NIGHTLY-i9300) apparently has the value for config_unplugTurnsOnScreen set to false (according to the current github file: https://github.com/CyanogenMod/android_frameworks_base/blob/jellybean/core/res/res/values/config.xml), but still the screen turns on when unplugging from charge?
2) I actually also want this to happen when starting to charge (so that the screen keeps off when put to charge instead of turning on...), yet I didn't find a config_plugTurnsOnScreen configuration... Does anyone know where else (and if) this option could be found and tinkered with?
As a side note, I have modded my gs3 with the touchstone wireless charging trick and I put it on and off the touchstone charging base quite oftenly and would like to prevent it from turning on the screen each time I put it to charge or remove it from charging... maybe there's a general android option that handles wireless charging options so that the screen is not affected on those events? (something like these WebOS options intended for the original use of the touchstone on WebOS: http://www.webosnation.com/keep-screen-while-touchstone)
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Time to resurrect a thread!
I also have a similar question, but not pertaining to CM rom, but stock. It should be the same value in both roms, I am assuming. I saw somewhere on this forum that the value may be in a jar file or in the kernel itself (Which I downloaded the source, but am not very confident and modifying a kernel at this point in time).

Auxiliary Battery + Battery Isolator = No Radio Startup Delay!

Hello folks! I wanted to explain the solution I came up with to the problem of the very lengthy startups on my android car radio.
Your typical car radio is wired like you see below:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNRk8tR3VobmxOdUk/view?usp=sharing
With a OEM radio, your startup is just a few seconds for a modern Linux- or android-based car radio. Even some aftermarket radios like the mainline AVH Pioneer series are up and running in seconds.
Not so much with our favorite android aftermarket car radios. Boot up times are something on the order of 20 to 30 seconds. This isn’t too bad in and of itself, but if you’re the sort of individual that likes to “get up and go” this starts getting very annoying after a while. If you’re refueling your car then start up the motor when finished, that cuts the power to the radio and you witness another 30 seconds before everything is up and running, and that’s before the stereo does its media scan and the audio apps get loaded into the RAM. So you’re almost a minute on your drive before the tunes start.
A straightforward solution is what you see below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNcVFYZG1mamhVN00/view?usp=sharing
I’ve wired the ignition trigger line directly onto the positive. This keeps the radio on at all times. This eliminates the annoying boot up delay, however we run the risk of draining the car battery this way. I have seen discussions on this forum where standby power consumption for aftermarket android head units runs somewhere on the order of 25 mA, all the way up to 300 mA or more. I have not tested this out although it would make for an interesting study. The point is this is a potential problem if you plan to leave your vehicle parked somewhere for an extended period of time. You don’t want your car in the long term parking lot at the airport to have a dead battery when you arrive back late at night from your trip, because the android radio was running off your car battery for the days or weeks you were gone.
If you wish to eliminate the lengthy android boot up time and also save your car battery, allow me to propose the following solution:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNV2pUUmNiN3RLMDg/view?usp=sharing
In this example, I have purchased a battery isolator and a very small auxiliary battery just the power the car radio. This involves the addition of some extra electronics in your trunk, and some extra 4-conductor wiring from this new battery and battery isolator up to the car radio. If you know what you are doing you can do this all in one afternoon, which was my experience.
You’ll need a few things in order to get this project rolling:
A 12V 18-amp-hour battery that is typically used in an uninterruptible power supply. $35:
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12180-Rechargeable-Battery-Bolts/dp/B00A82A3RK/
Battery isolator:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-IGD140HP-140-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001DKRF2M/
or http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=iso_pwr
(There’s plenty of different choices here. Look around and see what you like. I chose the IsoPwr unit because it is solid-state diode-based and has no mechanical relay inside it.)
Four-conductor wire:
https://www.amazon.com/16AWG-4-Conductor-Speaker-White-Mediabridge/dp/B0193RRUBM/
Butt splices, and splicing tool.
Fish tape, for running the wire underneath the carpet in the car.
Toolset for removing the seats, center console, removing the radio, etc.
A stiff drink for when the trolls show up. (Just kidding! )
I also purchased a pair of trailer wire extension cables, which are four conductor wires with plugs.
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48145-Wire-Extension-Length/dp/B0002RNSNM/
This works well for keeping the wiring in place in case I need to remove the battery or the radio.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNbGswdW04V010akU/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNTDhfY3hLT2Rlc3M/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNVUc5TXJSMzN2STQ/view?usp=sharing
As you can see in the pictures, I fabricated a wooden stand to retain everything, and I had a plastic battery box laying around from an earlier car stereo installation.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNNElSUDUtOGhDNXc/view?usp=sharing
The procedure is simple, you place the battery and isolator in the trunk and run the wire up to the car radio. You cut the power leads on your aftermarket car wire radio harness, and splicing your four conductor wire. This wire runs all the way and hooks up to your isolator in the trunk, which in turn is connected to the auxiliary battery.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNVE9peGZGZF91MXM/view?usp=sharing
Also, an important point: LABEL YOUR WIRES!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNaVhPVWg4OHlGMGs/view?usp=sharing
You really don't want to mis-wire anything and screw up your car.
An optional switch on the positive line running to the radio prevents discharge of the auxiliary battery, in case you’re parked for an exceptionally long amount of time.
If it seems like a lot of running around to get around a technical limitation on the part of the radio manufacturers, it really is. This was an experimental project on my part to expand my technical prowess in to give me the android car audio experience I desired minus the tire some waiting for the radio to boot up every time I got in the vehicle.
I’ve been running this for a few days now and the result is excellent. I can restart the car after filling up at the gas station, and now there is little delay other than the OS scanning the USB and MicroSD drives. And the radio works almost from the start first thing in the morning, before I even pull out of the driveway.
If you know what you are doing it can’t be beat.
Any questions?
Nice, I thought about this a while back. Quick question, when you turn your vehicle off, the radio stays on? You have to manually turn it off right?
ffwd4490 said:
Nice, I thought about this a while back. Quick question, when you turn your vehicle off, the radio stays on? You have to manually turn it off right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is correct. You turn your radio off manually, with or without the key in the ignition.
The standby current is the question. Some folks that do CanBus monitoring through their radio report large current draw when the radio is in standby mode, but those that don't do canbus seem to see standby current on the order of 80 mA down to about 25mA. It's an ongoing debate.
The separate battery eliminates the worry of draining your main car battery dry.
Make sense?
Yes totally, I've wanted to do this, just not sure if I want always on and manual turn on/off, or the wait... So as usual I do nothing lol. Great write up though! Cheers!!
That seems like a lot of parts and expense for very little gain.
Wouldn't it be easier to just put a switch or a timer on the ign line into the radio?
EDIT:
Like this;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Circuit...-delay-relay-Turn-on-off-switch-/131776109221
So for $3, it will hold the IGN line powered when IGN source is terminated, adjustable for anything between 0.1 seconds and 1 hour. Now when you go and fill up your gas tank, the radio stays on, but if you leave the car parked overnight, it will still do a full bootup the next morning.
EDIT2: This $5 unit is better;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LED...itch-Relay-ON-OFF-Module-12-24V-/262503313875
1) it will accept a higher voltage range, safe for car 14.5 volt.
2) it accepts a separate power and trigger input, meaning that it is a DIGITAL timer rather than analog timer that is potentially sensitive to temperature.
I didn't think of this for the short term pit stop boot up delay. We already have that solved with the software mod that allows you to keep the Hu powered for 2 hours. For me this would be for the overnight/work shut down.
The problem with the software mod is that only works after the radio has booted.
In my push to start car, I insert the card and the radio starts to boot but when I press the button the power is cut to the radio and it reboots again since the mod wasn't loaded yet.
So one of these mods could solve my problem.
Great,
I have been looking for a long time after this solution.
I want to install this but thinking about the next problem. My power-off function does not work. When pushing the power button, i have a black screen, the leds off the buttons are still active and after pressing the power button the system reboots. Not a perfect sleep or standby modus. If i don't fix this first the extra battery won't be a solution.
I can fix this by adjusting the software?
RK3066 800 x 400 with MALAYSK ROM (12 June)
I think it's absolutely absurd that these head units simply do not have a built in standby power supply keeping them in a sleep state rather than shutting down entirely.
Nine years ago with my atom-based desktop PC installed in the dash, using a dc-dc switching power supply, that desktop computer based infotainment system was able to sleep for weeks on battery power, always instantly resumed to the centrafuse software interface.
doitright said:
That seems like a lot of parts and expense for very little gain.
Wouldn't it be easier to just put a switch or a timer on the ign line into the radio?
EDIT:
Like this;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Circuit...-delay-relay-Turn-on-off-switch-/131776109221
So for $3, it will hold the IGN line powered when IGN source is terminated, adjustable for anything between 0.1 seconds and 1 hour. Now when you go and fill up your gas tank, the radio stays on, but if you leave the car parked overnight, it will still do a full bootup the next morning.
EDIT2: This $5 unit is better;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LED...itch-Relay-ON-OFF-Module-12-24V-/262503313875
1) it will accept a higher voltage range, safe for car 14.5 volt.
2) it accepts a separate power and trigger input, meaning that it is a DIGITAL timer rather than analog timer that is potentially sensitive to temperature.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If i were to do something like the second unit that you posted, how long would you think would be the most amount of time to allow the radio to stay on safely (with the screen off) before it negatively affects the car's battery (either the battery dying, or doing longterm damage to the battery). Thanks!
In fact probably radio should go down after 3 days in stand by. Then battery will still more than fine and 3 days is a long time to no impact slow starting.
I think it's absolutely absurd that these head units simply do not have a built in standby power supply keeping them in a sleep state rather than shutting down entirely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Amen to that, Brother. I’ve seen extremely fast startups with the AVH series from Pioneer, on the order of 2-3 seconds, but those lack the versatility of these android units and the more recent ones tend to be comparatively expensive.
The “big-label” android units like the NEX series are reportedly buggy, expensive and not terribly friendly towards you running anything else other than a handful of their approved apps. They are not truly universal in their approach, so we are stuck working around the limitations of the current crop of android stereos until better, faster technology shows up on the doorstep soon.
Hopefully "soon" really does mean soon.
Below I'll list a few questions and answers about this modification project, as asked by another member:
=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*--=
What Rom do you have installed? And what kind of radio do you have?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The radio I have is a Pumpkin Auto KD-C0248. It uses the RK3188 quad core CPU, and it has 800 x 480 resolution on a 7” touchscreen, and it is ultimately manufactured by “Klyde”. You might find here: https://www.amazon.com/Pumpkin-Universal-Navigation-Steering-Mirror-link/dp/B015PZVRXS/
It works okay, I don’t have a lot of complaints about it, except that I would’ve preferred a volume knob rather than the push buttons for volume adjustment. Strangely enough the volume buttons are on the right hand side of the unit, even though I own a left-hand drive vehicle. This means I have to reach across the screen to push buttons for volume up or volume down. Since I have this wired into the volume controls on the steering wheel this isn’t too big of a deal, but if I did not have the steering wheel controls it would become a real pain.
This model comes with a DVD player, and in retrospect, now having the option of loading music from the microSD card or a USB drive, I realize I no longer need the DVD. It’s somewhat superfluous at this juncture in the technology’s development.
Knowing what I now know, I would instead recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pumpkin-Universal-Muti-touch-Navigation-Bluetooth/dp/B0151KNXJ8/ or maybe this: http://xtrons.com/td695ab-6-95-inch...ayer-with-screen-mirroring-function-obd2.html
In other words avoid radios that don’t have a volume knob. It lacks ergonomics to be driving down the road and having to look over to adjust the volume, and in my opinion it is also somewhat dangerous.
I use the Malysk ROM, the latest version, and I must say it is a night and day difference between the stock ROM and this. It’s a hair slower in the loading (if coming up from a cold boot) but the added bells and whistles more than make it worth it.
This ROM comes with built-in ad blocking as a system setting, five different home screen launchers I can choose from, and a handful of aftermarket music players built-in by default, including JetAudio and PowerAmp (demo).
Note that I am using the android 4.4.4 ROM here. I could download the 5.1.1 android lollipop ROM for this radio, but android 5 is slower than android 4. There is more lines of code involved. See here for further information: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUZjOGIV7zg
Additionally, this RK3188 processor is about one third slower than a galaxy S4 CPU (snapdragon 600 CPU). For what we are doing with a radio, android 4 is just fine. If this were smart phone, I’d want the latest operating system instead.
Please see attached pictures: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=68082412#post68082412
Can you switch your radio in standby or off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not yet installed a hard switch, so this is on at all times. When I push the power button on the radio, it goes into a standby mode, fed by the auxiliary battery when the car is off. Boot up is just a few seconds. Because my battery isolator unit works a little bit too well, and because I purchased a small, cheap readily available UPS battery, I have to recharge the secondary battery every few days. I already own a battery charger, but the small size of the battery means it requires somewhat frequent maintenance, and this is a hassle. If I had a larger battery, or a regular car battery in the auxiliary battery box, this would be happening nearly as much.
I also think that my amplifier consume a lot of battery when connecting directly from the main battery. So i want to connect this after the ignition key.
I thought you've had installed a rechargeble battery? Does it recharge when driving the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have indeed install the rechargeable battery, is a typical led-acid battery, fully sealed, and these are what is frequently used in UPS’s. It does recharge it a little bit when driving, although not as much as I would like.
How many time do you have to recharge the extra battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I figure I have to recharge the battery about once or twice a week, depending on how frequently I am driving, and how far. Again, I have a very small capacity battery in here 18 AHr only, this is about 1/6th the capacity of a regular car battery. So I have to recharge it more than I would like.
I had previously done what I will suggest you when I was running in amplifier in my car, namely I had purchased a much larger battery, what is referred to as a deep cycle marine battery. This means it is specifically used in small personal fishing boats the power an electric propeller motor that won’t disturb the fish.
Here is one example: https://www.amazon.com/100Ah-SOLAR-WIND-CYCLE-BATTERY/dp/B00S1RT58C/
This this battery is meant to go a long time between recharges, and to discharge quite a bit between charges. With something like this in the trunk of my old car, and running a 1200-watt amplifier and (2x) 15” subwoofers in a sealed box, I could go one to two weeks between recharges. I would simply park the car in the garage, hook the battery charger up to the auxiliary battery terminals, let it charge all night while I sleep, then put everything back as it should be and hit the road in the morning. I did this for a few years. It worked fine.
Again, it’s a lot of running around to work around what is, in my opinion, a latent fault with these car stereos, but if you’re serious about your music, and you like the insurance of having an extra battery for jump starts in your trunk, then this is the way to go.
Power Consumption Figures
Addendum 9/3/16:
I wanted to relate that the initial battery size was really not adequate for my needs in this affair. The 18 amp-hour battery would discharge in a matter of days, to the point where it was no longer doing its intended job. I would have to recharge the battery about two times per week. This is not acceptable.
So today I went out and purchased a marine deep-cycle battery with about 500 CCA. I’m not quite clear on the amp-hour rating. This was about $80, plus tax.
More importantly, I went on to eBay and for around $10 I purchased a very small, cheap power meter with a simple wiring set up. I wired this into the output circuit from the battery isolator to the radio, so I could see what the actual power draw is for this set up.
My results are as follows:
At start-up we see about 3 Watts being consumed, 0.25 amperes of current, plus or minus a little bit.
When the radio is fully booted up, the screen is on, and music is playing, we see about 10 W of power consumption.
When the radio is in a standby mode, after you’ve hit the power button and the screen is off and the radio is about as “turned off” as it’s going to get, we see around 1 W of power consumption.
Mind you, this is a RockChip 3188 CPU, and the power usage will be similar across all brands that use this CPU.
As I’ve emphasized earlier, the advantage of this set up with the (now larger) battery is you can run a large amplifier and subwoofers off of it, without potentially taxing your electrical system.
Otherwise if you’re going to run a powerful car radio, you have to buy a larger battery and a larger alternator to go with it. This may not be everybody’s cup of tea.
:good:
Hi - been away from the forums for a three months now - been v busy with work, but was following this thread and really like your attempt here.
It's got be thinking on a few things - especially your last post with actual measurement of power usage.
It's raised a couple of interesting points for me.
The first is effect on your standard car battery if left on all the time. My car battery is a 72Ah, 12V, so please correct me if I'm wrong - but does this make it 864Wh. Therefore, at 1W draw, the car battery would support it for 36 days? Now I imagine that a car battery would need to have a reasonable level of juice in it to start a car so it's not like you could leave it for (e.g.) 35 days and still expect it to start but if you were leaving the device on overnight/out of working hours (i.e. not weeks on end), on this basis it shouldn't really kill your battery.
Further thoughts I had was
1) could there be some kind of software mod to make the power off function on the radio even more power efficient and so it really be a minimal drain on apps. I think this is what QuickBoot does on Cyanogen, but possibly it could be done by throttling the CPU, airplane mode and greenifying the apps. If the power usage was halved etc, then it really could be inconsequential relative to the standard car battery.
2) Maybe a rechargeable 'powerbank' could be used instead of the battery you have. Along the lines of say this 12V 23000mAh one which I think could sustain the head unit for almost 300 hours if 0.08A are drawn or 12V 10000mAh one which I think could do 125 hours if 0.08A are drawn - if the discharge side of this could switch on when the car ignition is switched off, but it plugged into a ciggy lighter (which are only on when the car is on in my car), then it would charge when the car is on and discharge when the car is off. Not sure how feasible/tricky that is.. ,also found this which seems to be able to do the switching required...
Ok, so the newer head units (i.e. with Intel) are much more able to deal with the momentary "off" situation that is caused by starting the engine -- essentially, they have a WORKING shutdown delay, that is effective right from initial power blip.
They also start up a lot faster (around 10-15 seconds FULL BOOT).
I recall an interesting feature that was introduced by Parrot into Asteroid Smart; it had an advanced startup. In the case of the Parrot, it was based on a motion sensor in the unit -- when it sensed you opening the door, it would begin its power up.
Now while these chinese units don't have motion sensors, we could actually do something else that would give it an advanced startup -- hook the ignition switch line into the INSIDE LIGHTS of the car -- you open the door, the lights come on, the radio starts booting, you sit down, stick the key in, start the engine, and guess what? Its booted!
This modification will require a couple of DIODES. Run the inside lights circuit through a diode to the IGN input to the car radio. Run also the car IGN source through a diode to the IGN input of the car radio. Without the diodes, the ignition would turn on the lights, and the lights would power on all kinds of things you don't want powered on.
For an older unit, the same kind of thing would work, IF you combine it with the capacitor shutdown delay hack -- software hacks won't work since the unit won't be booted far enough for the software hack to actually run. And while it might not be enough time to fully boot an older unit, it will at least shave a bunch of time off of it.
Parrot Asteroid --> Android™ 2.3 platform :/
and you shouldn't power your HU from the lights circuit not mentioning that when they are off, the HU would be off too.....
It could be done by using a relay and lights circuit as a trigger, but not as a power source itself.
doitright said:
Ok, so the newer head units (i.e. with Intel) are much more able to deal with the momentary "off" situation that is caused by starting the engine -- essentially, they have a WORKING shutdown delay, that is effective right from initial power blip.
They also start up a lot faster (around 10-15 seconds FULL BOOT).
I recall an interesting feature that was introduced by Parrot into Asteroid Smart; it had an advanced startup. In the case of the Parrot, it was based on a motion sensor in the unit -- when it sensed you opening the door, it would begin its power up.
Now while these chinese units don't have motion sensors, we could actually do something else that would give it an advanced startup -- hook the ignition switch line into the INSIDE LIGHTS of the car -- you open the door, the lights come on, the radio starts booting, you sit down, stick the key in, start the engine, and guess what? Its booted!
This modification will require a couple of DIODES. Run the inside lights circuit through a diode to the IGN input to the car radio. Run also the car IGN source through a diode to the IGN input of the car radio. Without the diodes, the ignition would turn on the lights, and the lights would power on all kinds of things you don't want powered on.
For an older unit, the same kind of thing would work, IF you combine it with the capacitor shutdown delay hack -- software hacks won't work since the unit won't be booted far enough for the software hack to actually run. And while it might not be enough time to fully boot an older unit, it will at least shave a bunch of time off of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oscyp said:
Parrot Asteroid --> Android™ 2.3 platform :/
and you shouldn't power your HU from the lights circuit not mentioning that when they are off, the HU would be off too.....
It could be done by using a relay and lights circuit as a trigger, but not as a power source itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like this line of thinking... so could you set it so if the lights are on OR the ign line is on, then the run that output as the new IGN feed to the radio?
And I might be getting confused here, but I thought the HU takes it power directly from the Fuse board, but the ignition feed effectively triggers it on - or is it actually drawing quite a bit of current from the ignition feed?
Or, sticking with doitright suggestion, how about a motion sensor like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motion-detector-kit-n27fl located low so it picks up the driver footwell, somehow reset it though.
Or an electrical contact switch on the driver door that can sense it opening when the ignition is off?
Might be some kind of alternate switch idea which would work?
Mr Bigglesworth said:
Or, sticking with doitright suggestion, how about a motion sensor like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motion-detector-kit-n27fl located low so it picks up the driver footwell, somehow reset it though.
Or an electrical contact switch on the driver door that can sense it opening when the ignition is off?
Might be some kind of alternate switch idea which would work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any trigger + relay circuit would be good. No big deal.
Mr Bigglesworth said:
I like this line of thinking... so could you set it so if the lights are on OR the ign line is on, then the run that output as the new IGN feed to the radio?
And I might be getting confused here, but I thought the HU takes it power directly from the Fuse board, but the ignition feed effectively triggers it on - or is it actually drawing quite a bit of current from the ignition feed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is NOT drawing ANY (measurable) current from the IGN line. At most, it is just enough current to activate a BJT. If China decided to spend the extra 0.001 cents, then they used an FET, and the current is zero. All of its current is through the radio fuse, which remains powered up full time, as long as the car's battery is installed and has charge.
Yes, that is what I'm talking about. Just OR it with the inside lights and make sure there is no backflow.
---------- Post added at 02:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:51 PM ----------
Mr Bigglesworth said:
Or, sticking with doitright suggestion, how about a motion sensor like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motion-detector-kit-n27fl located low so it picks up the driver footwell, somehow reset it though.
Or an electrical contact switch on the driver door that can sense it opening when the ignition is off?
Might be some kind of alternate switch idea which would work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is what I'm talking about. What do you think causes the inside lights to turn on when you open the door?!!!!

"Always-On" Backup Power Source

Hello all
I'm thinking on developing an external power source based on lithium cells for my unit. The idea is to avoid the boot delay when the car is not used for some hours. The external power source will power the unit only when the car is not active.
- Does anybody knows what is the average consumption of a MTCD unit with no-music / no-screen active?
- Is there a way to power only the Android Module? Or a way to send a HW signal for he unit to go to "sleep" (but NOT turn off)
Thanks !!!
I also want to do this.
I have some spare cells that can use.
I think it should use less than 500 mAh with the screen off
maxiauer said:
Hello all
I'm thinking on developing an external power source based on lithium cells for my unit. The idea is to avoid the boot delay when the car is not used for some hours. The external power source will power the unit only when the car is not active.
- Does anybody knows what is the average consumption of a MTCD unit with no-music / no-screen active?
- Is there a way to power only the Android Module? Or a way to send a HW signal for he unit to go to "sleep" (but NOT turn off)
Thanks !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not necessary, with appropriate MTCD MCU and ROM version these units indefinitely sleep, consuming only 5mA, and immediately resume when powered on.
Suggest a search of the forums for all the info you might need.
marchnz said:
Not necessary, with appropriate MTCD MCU and ROM version these units indefinitely sleep, consuming only 5mA, and immediately resume when powered on.
Suggest a search of the forums for all the info you might need.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 to that, i run a mtcd unit and a dual dash cam system (auto off at 12v) and they run fine over night without issue, when dash-cam shuts down stereo will easily not drain battery even after few days.
My Xtrons branded model came with a loop of wire with a quick disconnect on the main power loom. If I connect them, the unit will remain powered on after the keys are removed from the ignition. If disconnected, the unit will power down after a few seconds. (Still can't work out how to change this length of time though). What I'm thinking of doing is installing an inline switch so I can power the unit down fully if required when I know the car isn't going to be used for a while.
So, if the consumption is so low, in "normal suspended conditions", then the answer to the problem would be to keep the unit powered by the battery, but also keep on sensing the current to make sure it is really suspended and not consuming too much. My concern is that I do like to test new apps and ROMs in beta stage quite frequently, and I don't want to have any nasty surprise one morning because one app/ROM had a bug and kept draining the battery.
Another point to add is a timer, so after N days without starting the engine the unit is killed to protect the battery.
Anybody knows an easy way to get the unit to suspend when the power to the yellow cable gets off, but to not switch off? In the Androit 8 ROMs I use (Malaysk) the maximum timeout allowed before switching-off is 1 hour. Any easy way to modify this? (I'll do some research on my side also).
I'll post the circuit here as soon as I have some time to implement it
Kr
Max
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...iliary-batter-battery-isolator-radio-t3417196
I did exactly what you speak of here. Look over the details I show and the instructions.
I'm willing to sell the battery isolator unit that I bought for this project. With the newer radios I don't need it.
maxiauer said:
So, if the consumption is so low, in "normal suspended conditions", then the answer to the problem would be to keep the unit powered by the battery, but also keep on sensing the current to make sure it is really suspended and not consuming too much. My concern is that I do like to test new apps and ROMs in beta stage quite frequently, and I don't want to have any nasty surprise one morning because one app/ROM had a bug and kept draining the battery.
Another point to add is a timer, so after N days without starting the engine the unit is killed to protect the battery.
Anybody knows an easy way to get the unit to suspend when the power to the yellow cable gets off, but to not switch off? In the Androit 8 ROMs I use (Malaysk) the maximum timeout allowed before switching-off is 1 hour. Any easy way to modify this? (I'll do some research on my side also).
I'll post the circuit here as soon as I have some time to implement it
Kr
Max
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This issue previously discussed in depth and answered.
Consumption, regardless of how many apps installed, is always 5mA in standby. From this it would take months to deplete the average car battery.
Instead of guessing, work it out

Question Ultra low power state

I just bought the 32 gig model to use as an android auto headunit as most good decks are out of stock and figure why not do something fun. I'd prefer not to have it receive power all the time so what is the limitation for idle time with stock settings? I actually did this once before with a nexus 7 running a custom rom and got the standby time to I want to say a few weeks. Goal is to have it go into this state when power is removed and then when power is reapplied (car turns on) it snaps right back into android auto and is ready to go.
Anyone else use this tablet for this purpose?
Hey there, I have the exact same use case as you. I also used to have a nexus 7 as my head unit and swapped for the A7 Lite within the last few months. Now I'm not sure how savvy or comfortable you are with some of this stuff, but I'll type out what I did here. Sorry if this is long but its a lot of info. Feel free to ask me any questions.
Root/Apps​First off I rooted the tablet using this same method for the A7 10.5. This is a pretty intensive root method compared to most so I wouldn't advise if you don't feel comfortable. You will also trip KNOX so keep that in mind.
A quick note: Tasker may be able to run all of the commands I use without root so rooting may not be necessary. Greenify is definitely more robust with root but also may be able to run fine without it!
Once rooted, I installed Tasker to handle all the automation, and Greenify to handle blocking background usage. The cool thing about Samsung is they give you the ability natively to block most apps from performing background tasks so battery life should be pretty damn good from the start. Greenify with root just adds an extra layer of killing those pesky tasks that keep your tablet from deep sleep.
Tasker​For tasker, I have 2 main profiles used to turn this into a proper head unit. Hopefully you have some experience In Tasker so this next part isnt gibberish. I'll write them down here in a readable format but let me know if you want me to clarify anything.
- If any power is connected: Turn on the screen > Set display timeout to 23 hours > Turn on Immersive Mode
As an exit task when power is disconnected: Turn off Immersive mode > set timeout to 30 seconds
- If there is no power: From 8:30pm-5:00am > turn off tablet
When power is supplied, the tablets screen will turn on, set a super long timeout, then enable Immersive mode to hide the top and bottom bars like your watching a movie. You touch anywhere on the screen and they will pop out for use. When power is disconnected, it will revert back to normal.
The second task is set from 8:30pm-5am. If the tablet does not get supplied power between those times, it will shut the tablet off. This works for me because I never really drive between those times but you could adjust to your lifestyle and probably not impact battery much.
The only annoyance is that every morning you will have to turn the tablet on via the power button. There used to be a few methods of turning a tablet on when power is supplied and that is something I used on the nexus 7 but that functionality is currently lacking on the A7 lite. There is one potential way to achieve this, but it involves replacing the batter icon file used when the tablet is off and plugged in, with a script telling the tablet to boot up. Unfortunately, with the changed made to partitioning and the lack of TWRP for this device, I haven't been able to find a method of doing so.
Charging​The most important part of all of this is making sure you have a good charger/cable that will fastcharge. With all of this done, I have never seen my battery drop below 98%. When it does drop sub 100% it charges back up in a matter of minutes once driving again.
Pics​As far as the pics below, I 3d printed a slightly angled holder with a slot for a 90 degree charging cable and also a super strong magnet behind the left side. I put a magnet plate on the tablet and is basically does not move with put into place. Looks pretty clean also which is a bonus.
Hope this info helps out and ill update if I find an auto-boot method.
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So I didn't end up going the root option just in case something happens to it. I was able to use automate and setup the routines fine with one exception. Killing the headunit reloaded app sometimes doesn't work but I typically catch it so it's not terrible. But yeah basically mine does check for power then depending on power state changes wifi, screen timeout, power saving mode etc. And yeah battery life is actually pretty great on average with standby time.
I used a pocket router since I couldn't make wifi direct work. I typically leave the router on so I can connect immediately but it is switched for really cold nights so it doesn't kill my battery. And on that subject turns out this tablet hates the cold lol so I have to pull that out as well now. Kind of a pain but whatever.
Here's pics of what I did.
https://www.reddit.com/r/AndroidAuto/comments/qrzlz1
I also chose to use a separate EQ I had lying around. Big benefit with the separate volume knob and then setting filters since my old unit was I believe responsible for that.
On your tablet mount. Is that the plastic that's all scuffed up? If that's ABS then a quick way to bring back the shine is paper towels with acetone on it. Just wipe it gently in the same direction and it will pop.
Nice build!
On your tablet mount. Is that the plastic that's all scuffed up? If that's ABS then a quick way to bring back the shine is paper towels with acetone on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's actually PLA. I had just replaced my PEI sheet with a one of those ender 3 magnetic sheets due to some first layer problems. It stuck to the new sheet like glue and left this crazy scuffed up looking surface. Adjusted my z offset and its fine now but figured it wasn't a big deal since the tablet would cover that anyway.
I'm actually in the process of doing some more tweaks to the tablet. Gaining root access to the partitions in a custom recovery would make life super easy but there are some problems doing this in Android 11 on a samsung. I plan on removing the "your device is unlocked" warning and replacing with a subaru symbol for when the device boots, and eventually finding a way to auto boot the tablet when power is applied. I will updated in this post if i make any progress.
I'm super stoked someone else has been using this tablet and a 3d printer to turn this into a HU!
tagcart said:
Nice build!
It's actually PLA. I had just replaced my PEI sheet with a one of those ender 3 magnetic sheets due to some first layer problems. It stuck to the new sheet like glue and left this crazy scuffed up looking surface. Adjusted my z offset and its fine now but figured it wasn't a big deal since the tablet would cover that anyway.
I'm actually in the process of doing some more tweaks to the tablet. Gaining root access to the partitions in a custom recovery would make life super easy but there are some problems doing this in Android 11 on a samsung. I plan on removing the "your device is unlocked" warning and replacing with a subaru symbol for when the device boots, and eventually finding a way to auto boot the tablet when power is applied. I will updated in this post if i make any progress.
I'm super stoked someone else has been using this tablet and a 3d printer to turn this into a HU!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you are actually turning off the tablet every time? I've found that even without root I can get it to hold great battery life for days and theoretically up to weeks of standby time. I mean if you drive it at least once/twice per week then I might consider keeping it on. Then you don't have to wait.
Yeah I love my printer. So much fun to make different things with it. And also one of the most frustrating tools I own lol. Dialing it in and making repairs/upgrades over time has been.... fun lol.
So you are actually turning off the tablet every time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah currently I am. I know the tablets have a great standby and deep sleep and I could probably make it at-least a week without the need to shut it down but I have it set this way just to not have to worry about it. Boot time is only about 20 seconds or so, and if i can figure out how to autoboot with power, it would be perfectly set up.

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