Hi everyone,
I have a bricked K1 Plus box that apparently has some hardware damage to the eMMC power supply.
Via UART I am only getting
Code:
GXBB:BL1:08dafd:0a8993;FEAT:EDFC318C;POC:3;RCY:0;EMMC:800;NAND:81;SD:800;USB:8;GXBB:Fixed PLL lock failed
BL1:08dafd:0a8993;FEAT:EDFC318C;POC:3;RCY:0;EMMC:800;NAND:81;SD:800;USB:8;LOOP:1;EMMC:800;NAND:81;SD:800;USB:8;LOOP:2;EMMC:400;NAND:81;SD:800;USB:8;LOOP:3;EMMC:800;NAND:81;SD:800;USB:8;
Looking at the board, there is a S47BAB SOT23-6 power regulator and a A19T that are getting very hot immediately after power is plugged in.
// great, wasted time creating and uploading pictures of PCB but cannot include them as a new user... couldn't vBulletin tell me when clicking the "insert image" button?
In any case, it's about 1U4 and 1Q3.
A19T is an AO3401 p-Channel MOSFET,
Pin 2 (Source) of A19T goes to Pin 6 (Output?) of the S47BAB regulator, which I could not find any information about.
So I think the regulator itself might still be fine, but it has way too much load attached...
It seems to be the power supply for the eMMC module, does anyone have the schematic for K1 Plus to verify that?
Could someone measure the correct voltage at that regulator / MOSFET, I think it should be either 1.8V or 3.3V for the eMMC?
I'm currently waiting for replacement AO3401 to arrive, however I still wonder how this could draw so much current? (when the MOSFET burns up shouldn't it be either permanently conductive or non-conductive?)
The eMMC itself is not getting any hot, the only other part that is getting slightly warm is the regulator 1U1 and some resistors near the S905 XTAL, but that is probably normal).
Next thing I would try to desolder the MOSFET and see if S905 can boot from USB or microSD. "PLL lock failed" might be just due to some overload of the power supply I hope?
Any help and ideas are appreciated
I had the same problem, but I resolved using the attached firmware with amlogic burning tool 2.2 and a cable usb with a data port + a power port.
I noted that with a standard usb cable male to male there is not enaugh power.
In this way the burner tool recognize the box and you can flash the firmware
Related
hi,
i have a pipo U6 and i use custom Riley rom 1.2.
I have a project to use it in a Dashboard car (with pipo U6 is the same dimensions of my contour Dashboard).
I want to charge and use OTG at same time, i try differents diagrams.
i use a Y cable short pin 4 and 5 with resistor.
i use a variable resistor to find the exactly value.
the value i had find is 6.20kohms, the icon charging is ON, the OTG work fine,
but really it don't charge.
i open the tablet to extend button with wire (to use a steeringwheell). and i saw that the charging light doesn't work.
im not affraid to solder in motherboard.
I want to directly solder +5v and GND directly on pins of controller charging chip. but i dont have pipo diagram.
its possible? if not, i have another solution is to remove battery and use a converter ----> this is my last solution.
any issues?
thanks sorry for my English.
how to know, if the charging and otg can work at same time?
i use kernel 3.0.36+
the otg+charging it is activated (coded) in this kernel?
thanks
i tested range 0 to 640kohm to find the exact value.
No issues to find resistor to activate otg+charging, i think is not supported
i find datasheet of power management chip of my tablet,
is a ACTIVE 8846QM link is http://www.active-semi.com/sheets/ACT8846_Datasheet.pdf
im newbee, can i connect in battery pin directly a module like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LiPo-Charge...122?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac607684a ?
i read 8846QM are a logical power management. it is dangerous for my tablet to use this module?
thanks
My projet to mount in audi A3
i had my rbox pro 3+32 for 2 weeks which immediately showed power issues randomly cutting out i contacted the seller who gave me a 25% refund if i agreed to keep the box so i thought a sd burning update of the new firmware may fix it but it cut out just as update was starting now it is hard bricked with no tv output and only a light blue light with a reset button not seeming to work (i have since found the power adapter was causing the orig power cutout issues and replaced it), i have tried to do sd burn but nothing happens, i have tried usb burn but does not connect i tried shorting pins next to the bga emmc where an older style nand chip could have been optioned , i cant even get it to connect via uart ttl
i have tried to find another solution but im all out of luck any help would be appreciated
my only other idea is to remove emmc chip and install a sd card socket in its place but i cant find any info on this and im not sure if its even possible
Ok finally all sorted by soldering 2 wires on the old tsop pads (even though it uses a bga emmc) and holding the wires together for 8 seconds from the time i plugged in the power, also it had to be powered via a usb port instead of main plug as the sd didnt seem to get power to it while it was bricked using the main plug ??. anyways after the 8 seconds the screen lit up and i opened the shorted wires and the sd update started, after 10- 12 minutes it completed and all is well
I used the h96pro plus android 7.1 firmware and it seems to be very compatible with no issues that i have noticed so far
Any way you could document your process a little more? Like which pads you used? My r-box died watching youtube, and stops at 7% using usb burning tool, and also stops right away using sdcard method. Would love to revive this device.
smashdotcom said:
Any way you could document your process a little more? Like which pads you used? My r-box died watching youtube, and stops at 7% using usb burning tool, and also stops right away using sdcard method. Would love to revive this device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the same problem 7% dead
Hi,
I was working on my HU at home. It is a Xtrons TB706APL MTCD GS. Because there is no Wifi in my Carpark I always take the unit into my flat. I have connected everything and turned the power supply on. Bad decision, because the supply voltage was set way to high. Since then the unit isn't working anymore, but it still uses around 45mA when I connect it. That's why I hope it's not 100% dead and I can maybe rescue it.
So, my question is does this units have some sort of overvoltage protection? If not, is there any other way to repair it? I have checked some parts on the circuit board visually, but nothing looks like its burned or something like that.
So here are the results of my investigations:
Both Step-Down DC-DC Converters are working until 30V and have an Overvoltage lockout. These were working after the overvoltage perfectly, but they did not have the enable Signal from the MCU.
After checking the voltage at the MCU I found out, that the 3,3V supply was only producing 0,5V. On the GS boards the voltage generator marked as "U6" is producing this voltage. Giving the unit manually 3.3V worked and the unit was booting again, so the fault was this voltage regulator "U6". Sadly, while I was checking some resistors I have shorted something and the MCU was killed, so no hope for me anymore.
But I think others with the same problem can solve it by simply replacing the voltage regulator “U6”. It is a Torex XC6202 252B, with a maximum input voltage of 20V (that’s why it was killed by overvoltage. No overvoltage lockout available with this part) and an output Voltage of 3,3V. The package type is SOT-89.
I used these schematics posted here on XDA: https://dl.xda-developers.com/4/2/1....pdf?key=lSfDKP1LExACrJB60qveOA&ts=1522213098
There are many reasons due to that Samsung Galaxy S7 edge won’t turn on. As for won’t power on accompanied with 50mA-80mA boot current, the first thing we do is to check power supply voltage. If nothing goes wrong, the fault is most likely to be related to CPU. If there is abnormal voltage measured, then check corresponding faulty position on the board. The fault component is finally confirmed as PMIC U7003, our focus today would be to fix this issue. We can fix the issue by replacing with a new PMIC. Now, follow the instructions given below:
Before Repair Test
Press the Galaxy S7 Edge power button, the phone won’t turn on. Then take out the SIM card tray and logic board.
Fault Analysis
First, we need to confirm whether the boot current is normal, for better measurement, apply tins to the battery connector and solder a length of red supply wire.
Trigger with tweezers to power on the phone, current reading on the ammeter is 50mA(For 50mA boot current of the phone). The fault is usually related to CPU and main power supply voltage.
Next, let’s measure the voltage outputted from PMIC, measure PP_0V8, PP_0V85, PP_1V8, PP_2V95, PP_1V25, PP_1V15 and PP_0V8
Fault Detection
Disconnect the power supply, remove the shield plate. And then trigger with tweezers to power on the phone, measure L7012, L7011, C7067, C7044, C6040, L7015 and L7004 one by one.
The measured voltage of C7067 is lower than the normal value (Normal value should be about 1.8V).
Now, we can confirm now that the fault component is PMIC U7003.
Repair
We need to replace a new PMIC.
First, remove shield plate on PMIC with Cutting Nipper, then heat up with Hot Air Gun.
Detach PMIC from the board, apply some Paste Flux to the bonding pad. Remove tins on the pad with Soldering Iron.
Remove tins thoroughly with rosin soaked Solder Wick, once done, clean with PCB Cleaner.
Apply some Paste Flux to the bonding pad, get a new PMIC in position and solder with Hot Air Gun. Once done, wait for the logic board to cool for 5 minutes, at last, clean with PCB Cleaner afterwards.
After Repaired Test
Now we can assemble the phone and test.
Get the logic board installed, connect the battery, get the loudspeaker and wireless charging coil installed.
Press the power button to power on, the phone turns on normally.
Samsung Galaxy S7 edge won’t turn on issue fixed perfectly.
Attaching the video link of S7 edge won't power on MOD Edit:- Content Removed.
Hello.
Sad moment. I turned on the "s5-charging driver" option in the bios of my Intel Atom Z3735F Teclast X89 Kindow tablet. (I think it is the only thing I changed, but I have a doubt.) After I selected "save and quit" it turned off. And now it will never turn on again. :crying:
I tried holding power for 20 seconds, holding power + vol-, power + vol+, power + vol- + vol+, it never woke up. I opened it, but of course there is no bios battery or pin like on desktop motherboards on these little things. And it seems that you can't reflash bios through USB neither.
I spent this day searching and it seems that unfortunatly the only solution is to reprogramme the bios chip, like someone did here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/help/unbricking-teclast-x89-kindow-t3412968.
So, I have three options :
A. Doing it by myself. schrdlu's instructions seems rather easy to follow. (But knowing myself, there are good chances I run into trouble at some point and need your help.)
But first, I do not have a programmer. Do I have to buy precisely a EZP-XPro to flash this chip or will a cheaper programmer do, like this EZP2010 or this CH341A ? Please someone tell me so I can order it as soon as possible.
Also, I do not find the voltage of the AMI Aptio V on their website. Do I need a 1.8v converter or not ? I do not see any on schrdlu's photo.
B. Finding someone here living in Europe (to avoid customs problems) willing to do the job then ship me back the tablet. How much would you take ? Like, 15€ including shipment ? I love this toy but I am broke and it was 60€ new anyway so I am not spending a lot to fix it.
C. Buying one with a broken screen for cheap, and swap its motherboard with mine. Of course I would lose my data though, it is probably tricky to replace and I may break it in the process.
I received the CH341A programmer, with a 1.8v adapter, but when I read the chip I get only zeros...
I tried billions of times...
I plugged again the claw on the chip so many times that it already look used...
The claw is like on the photo in the other thread, the red wire is where the circle is. I tried so many times that I ended up mistaking and fixing it the wrong way, with the red wire at the other end. I hope I did not burn it by doing so.
1 4 5 8 on the claw pcb is on 1 4 5 8 on the 1.8v adapter. I also tried putting it at the other end, like I saw on photos. No change.
Not a single time it detected the chip to begin with. Manufacturer ID, Memory type and all are always all $00. Or sometimes all $FF.
I set the chip as Gigadevice GD25Q64 as I read. But I only get 00s when reading.
It's making me crazy.
I do not think that the bios chip is dead, all I did to brick the tablet was changing an option in the bios.
I do not even know if the programmer I bought maybe is faulty, I do not have any other bios chip I can try to read with it.
Please, can anybody help ?
have you found a solution to this?
Joanse said:
have you found a solution to this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At last I had the programmer working, but I did not get to revive the tablet.
I did several things, not sure which one fixed the issue.
I bought another 1.8v converter and claw, in case the ones I had were faulty. (I also bought another CH341A but never received it)
I uninstalled and removed drivers, and installed most recent ones I found.
I plugged it directly on the computer, not on a hub.
And at last it detected the chip.
I read it, saved my broken bios dump, and wrote this one inside. Then I checked and it said that the content of the chip matched the file.
But for some reason the tablet would not wake up, even after charging for over an hour.
So I followed the instructions to fix my original bios with MMTool and wrote it back inside. Then I checked again, it said that they matched. And I let it charge again for two hours. But it still won't wake up.
The multimeter says there is 3.78v out of the battery though.
(and I broke the screen glass to cap it all)
update:
I left it unplugged for two hours, and the metal covering the SOC got a little warmer.
Is the tablet actually on ?
I did plug a USB LED to it, to check, but no, no power in the USB port. On my other tablet the USB LED turns on as soon as the tablet turns on.
Does anybody have any idea what is happening, why is the SOC warm while the tablet can't turn on ?
Did you tryed CLR (CLEAR) + GND pins?
perfect_ said:
Did you tryed CLR (CLEAR) + GND pins?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean ?
Worked?