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My wizard power adapter reads
power adapter reads
Model: ＡＤＰ ５ＦＨ Ｂ
Input：１００－２４０Ｖ～０．２Ａ ５０－６０Ｈｚ
output：５Ｖ－１Ａ ＬＰＳ
made in china
can i use this in china?
i know china uses 220 V on 50 Hz, but what does what does that ~0.2A mean? will chinese power stable enough for this device?
if not, what kind of converter do i need?
thanks in advance
You'll need a plug adaptor to fit the chinese plug which looks like
(bad ascii art follows)
\ / (it could vary tho) so that your transformer will connect.
The ~0.2a refers to the amount of current the device draws. It's a tiny amount of current.
To put that in perspective - you've probably encountered 25 watt incandescent light bulbs. If the power supply is 120v and the device is drawing .2 amps its 24 watts. .2 amps at 220v is 44 watts. That's why there's a tilde in front of the amperage because it varies depending on the supply voltage. In reality the thing is just drawing some fixed number of watts but its just not labeled that way.
im sure the plug looks the same
so is that mean i can use it?
You can use it because I just did recently. Although the standard plug in China is different than US or Europe, most hotels have plugs that fit the HTC charger.
it will be ok for 240v output ac adapter working in China.many European elecs are directly selling in China now.and in many high-end hotels of China,you could also find 110v power supplied.
================================================== momda.com ,Practical help with anything related to China & Chinese .
I have a usb type in car charger for my psp rated at 5v 2amp, could I use this on my Vario (wizard)?
will the extra 1 amp matter?
My mains plug for the vario is rated at 5v 1 amp.
thanks
In a electronic engineer theoritical point, it does not matter that the charger is able to provide the extra 1 amp. It should work since both has the same voltage. The basic equation is V = IR, which if you have the same voltage and resistance, the current will be adjusted automatically. For example, the wall socket on your house gives you 240V (e.g. UK standard) and able to give you 13A, hence the rating is 240V 13A. However, this same socket is able to act as a power supply for things rangers from the low power consumption (e.g. clock) to power hungry ones (e.g. kettle). These appliances uses the same voltage 240V but they adjust (automatically) the power by having lower current (e.g. clock = 0.1A, kettle 12A).
However, I'm not sure hows the HTC design in terms of safety. The 1amp condition will become a concern IF there is a problem with your phone. Example, if you have a defective battery, the 2amp charger will have the phone exploded in twice the speed as compared with the 1amp charger.
Anyway, 5V 2A = 10W is a low power rating. My comment is, there is a low accepted risk involved, but it should work with your phone. My advise would be, charge your phone with your default charger, sense the phone's temperature and function. THEN, go charge (later when you need charging) your phone with the 2A charger, and make sure that the phone is within the similar condition it has when charging with the default charger. It is just a precaution incase of any 'defects' on your phone. But, in most cases, if your phone works normally with your default charger, it should not have problems on the 2A charger.
Ask if you want to know more electrical stuff
Thanks,
What does the usb on a pc give?
It charges fine on this, I dont really use the wall charger.
As according to
http://www.beyondlogic.org/usbnutshell/usb2.htm
USB allows up to 0.5A of current. So, you are looking at 0.5A current from USB, but the standard charger is 1A.
Ok, thanks for your help, I'll give it a go if its an emergency!
Hi, I am new to this forum and You will probably be hearing a lot from me.Will this inverter work with the Viewsonic G Tablet: Wagan 2107-6 Smart AC 80 USB Inverter. I purchased it to use with another device and was hoping I could use it with the Viewsonic. I am waiting for delivery of the Viewsonic and was hoping I would not have to buy another car charger. Thanks
lartomar2002 said:
Hi, I am new to this forum and You will probably be hearing a lot from me.Will this inverter work with the Viewsonic G Tablet: Wagan 2107-6 Smart AC 80 USB Inverter. I purchased it to use with another device and was hoping I could use it with the Viewsonic. I am waiting for delivery of the Viewsonic and was hoping I would not have to buy another car charger. Thanks
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Looks like that inverter will up convert from 12V DC to 120V AC and then the power adapter for the GTab will down convert from 120V AC to 12V DC, seems like a lot of wasted energy in the form of heat. You should take a look at the power limits of the inverter. If my electrical training serves me right (22 years ago) 12V x 2A = 24 Watts.
I bought the Vector Mfg VEC009 from Amazon.com for $15.25 shipped. It works, but there is a noticeable buzz if you plan on using the GTab to play music while you leave the charger plugged in, but once the GTab is charged, I was able to drive from Las Vegas to Reno (7 hr trip) playing music and I still had battery life left.
texasbrew said:
Looks like that inverter will up convert from 12V DC to 120V AC and then the power adapter for the GTab will down convert from 120V AC to 12V DC, seems like a lot of wasted energy in the form of heat. You should take a look at the power limits of the inverter. If my electrical training serves me right (22 years ago) 12V x 2A = 24 Watts.
I bought the Vector Mfg VEC009 from Amazon.com for $15.25 shipped. It works, but there is a noticeable buzz if you plan on using the GTab to playing music while you leave the charger plugged in, but once the GTab is charged, I was able to drive from Las Vegas to Reno (7 hr trip) playing music and I still had battery life left.
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I am not an electrician either but if I am interpreting you correctly you are saying this is to much power for the GTab? I originally ordered this for a Pandigital Novel which is 5v 2a and the reason I ordered it was because I could not find a car charger with the correct tip. I though since this inverter accepts regular 110v type house plugs I would not have to ever worry about have to search for a charger with correct tip size again. Besides I all ready have this unit. Will it hurt the GTab?
Not enough
lartomar2002 said:
I am not an electrician either but if I am interpreting you correctly you are saying this is to much power for the GTab? I originally ordered this for a Pandigital Novel which is 5v 2a and the reason I ordered it was because I could not find a car charger with the correct tip. I though since this inverter accepts regular 110v type house plugs I would not have to ever worry about have to search for a charger with correct tip size again. Besides I all ready have this unit. Will it hurt the GTab?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your inverter does not output enough power. It may power the gTab for a short time, but texasbrew is correct that the conversion process results in heat being generated & from what I see on amazon, your unit uses passive (no fan) cooling to get rid of the heat. Since you would be trying to draw more power than the inverter is designed to handle (gtab needs 110-120 watts vs 80 watts your inverter is designed to output), it would become hotter than normal and have a harder time disipating the heat generated. The thermal limiter inside would eventually shut it down when the components become too hot or if you draw too much current. In addition, the additional heat could cause the inverter's components for fail quicker.
Depending on if you need to power any other ac devices in your car, you should either buy a more powerful inverter (150 wattt one would do) or consider the dc adapter that texasbrew suggested.
Al
I would only be using it for quick charges not for operating the GTab. My wife thinks I am buying to many gadgets so I am trying to keep peace.
Are you not confusing volts for watts. I'm not an electrician so I do not know.
lartomar2002 said:
I would only be using it for quick charges not for operating the GTab. My wife thinks I am buying to many gadgets so I am trying to keep peace.
Are you not confusing volts for watts. I'm not an electrician so I do not know.
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Click to collapse
watts = amps x volts
amps = watts/volt
volts =watts/amps
No, not confusing volts with watts (although one affects the other). According to the specs for the model you quoted, your inverter is capable of supplying 80 watts of power @ 110v or .73 amps. The gTab p/s input says 100-240v @ 1A (thats 110 watts...110v x 1 amp) needed to output the 12V @ 2 Amps the p/s outputs (24 watts).
Ofcourse, we are talking about the specs for the gTab power supply & the inverter. What we don't know is if the gTab p/s actually uses the entire 110 watts or if the inverter will actually let you draw more current than than the manufacturer states. Manufacturers typically build in fudge factors so you may be able to draw a little extra from the inverter & not need as much from the p/s & it may work OK.
Understand the wife thing well. Will you be doing that much charging/using while driving? You should be able to get 6-8 hours out of your battery depending on what you are doing. The gTab is going to draw the most power when actualy charging (vs less while maintaining a fully charged battery). Think of it kind of like charging your car battery. When the battery is low, the charger draws more current & when it gets close to full charge the amps goes down.
In the end the only true test is to try it. It may work or it may try to draw too much current and cause an undervolt condition that would trigger the safety circuits & not output anything.
Al
kevinlekiller, over on slatedroid.com on the Viewsonic GTab sub-forum accessories, posted a pic (I would post a link but being a new member I can not add a link until I have made at least eight post) that shows a tool named "Kill a Watt" and it shows the Gtab only using nine watts while running "angry birds".
aabbondanza said:
According to the specs for the model you quoted, your inverter is capable of supplying 80 watts of power @ 110v or .73 amps. The gTab p/s input says 100-240v @ 1A (thats 110 watts...110v x 1 amp) needed to output the 12V @ 2 Amps the p/s outputs (24 watts).
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Click to collapse
That's not how these things should be calculated.
If, at the secondary winding of a transformer, you draw 24 watts, then at the primary winding, too, you will have the same wattage drawn.
According to the ideal power equation for transformers:
Power (in) = Power (out)
ie. V (in) x I (in) = V (out) x I (out)
so, if the at the secondary winding, 2 A is drawn at 12 V, and the input voltage at the primary winding is 110 V, then the current drawn at the primary is:
I (in) = V (out) x I (out) / V (in)
ie. 12 * 2 / 110 = 0.21
So, on the primary side, 0.21 A is drawn to supply 24 watts at the secondary. And since the converter supplies 80 W, you should be able to use it without any problems.
In reality, the gtab will probably never use 24 watts. The sticker at the back says the power consumption is < 24 watts. And the script I use to check these things tells me that the power consumed when charging from a flat battery is ~12 W; and when the gTab is idle at the home screen, it's around 2.5 W. When it's sleeping with the screen off the power drawn is around 1.15 W. It will be even lower when the gTab goes into deep sleep mode.
A big thanks rajeevvp
rajeevvp said:
That's now how these things are calculated.
If, at the secondary winding of a transformer, you draw 24 watts, then at the primary winding, too, you will have the same wattage drawn.
According to the ideal power equation for transformers:
Power (in) = Power (out)
ie. V (in) x I (in) = V (out) x I (out)
so, if the at the secondary winding, 2 A is drawn at 12 V, and the input voltage at the primary winding is 110 V, then the current drawn at the primary is:
I (in) = V (out) x I (out) / V (in)
ie. 12 * 2 / 110 = 0.21
So, on the primary side, 0.21 A is drawn to supply 24 watts at the secondary. And since the converter supplies 80 W, you should be able to use it without any problems.
In reality, the gtab will probably never use 24 watts. The sticker at the back says the power consumption is < 24 watts. And the script I use to check these things tells me that the power consumed when charging from a flat battery is ~12 W; and when the gTab is idle, it's around 2.5 W.
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There ya go, I love the way a form like this can get a question answered.
It would make a great bumper sticker. But, all kidding aside thanks to everyone that jumped on this and tried to help.
If she wouldn't mind an extra $4 then this one shoudl work.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1186539
Can anybody recommend an external power pack that works with the flyer/view? I was looking at this:
http://www.amazon.com/New-Trent-IMP...FO/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1324398340&sr=8-20
It will work with your Flyer, but it will charge much slower than the HTC power cord due to the USB connector. It may or may not keep your unit powered during normal use depending the way you use your device since the current supplied will be limited by the standard USB cable (~500ma) vs. the propriety HTC charging cable (1200 ma). I would test by powering your Flyer off a standard PC USB port and see, This should be roughly equal to what this device will supply.
Hmm, me thinks I just spotted hardware hack number 3.
globatron said:
Hmm, me thinks I just spotted hardware hack number 3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol
This would be great please keep us updated
I picked up a Dreamgear iSound 8000 ma model on sale from expansys, seemed like a nice unit and was supposed to be able to push 2amp but it's no faster with the HTC cable than a regular generic microUSB cable hooked up to a usb port. The biggest drawback was the thing completely died on me before the first cycle, I mean DEAD, won't charge and the flashlight doesn't even work. So much for on sale, return shipping $$.
Neil
As I posted previously in this thread it does not matter what current the source supply can provide. The cable is the magic. Standard cable, standard charge rate of 500ma which is about 30% of what the HTC charger will give you
DigitalMD, reread his post. He clearly states that using both the HTC flyer cable, as well as a standard micro USB, gives him no difference. So while your conjecture that "it does not matter what current the source supply can provide. The cable is the magic." is interesting, it is not, in fact, entirely accurate. Perhaps the cable is "the magic" in certain environments, but clearly not all.
No conjecture at all, in this case it is a fact. The Flyer cable has extra pins and conductors that are not in a standard USB cable. This tells the Flyer when a power supply is connected vs. a standard USB and the Flyer then allows for higher charging rate. Whit out that special cable, it will only charge at 500ma or aprox. 30% of the HTC power supply rate.
Actually less than that even. The htc charger runs at ~9v > 1amp. A lithium battery can rapid charge in the range of 900mA to 1.2A depending on the cell(s) in the battery.
There are two cells or two packs (can't tell which on visual inspection) in the flyer battery running in parallel. A proper htc charger running at 1A provides approximately 10W of charging power, a 5 volt source running at 500mA provides 2.5W so the USB charging will be 4 times slower.
As discussed in another thread shorting USB D+ and D- will allow the flyer to recognise a wall charger and charge at 5v 900 mA, the same could be applied to a battery pack capable of providing 900 mA sustained. It wouldn't be as quick as the wall charger but it is probably enough to provide for charging while using the device, rather than just slowing discharge.
On the question of leads, using a htc cable or standard micro USB makes no difference by default. When connected to a USB socket the flyer/view cable behaves like any other USB cable, the wiring modification is done inside the charger for a wall charger, and would most safely be done the same way for a battery pack.
The flyer internally uses a threshold voltage plus the D+ and D- pins to determine if it is charging from 5v or the dedicated higher voltage wall charger.
yes your post is a more accurate explanation, thanks
Thanks for the input. I will give that one a try and take my View cable with me. I have long road trip coming up.
Hi mates!
I'm building some USB sockets in a restaurant powered by a supply of 5V 20A and I would like the phones may charge at max rate.
Betwen Samsung and Apple there may be differencs and I would like to disuss with you. I read Apple can charge up to 2A if we put 2,7V on D- and 2V on D+, but there is also charge of 2,4A if both are at 2,7Volt.
1) Do you know if it works with all new iPhones? (both at 2,7Volt)
2) Does the "2,7V on D- and 2V on D+" fits the Samsung too? (for example most recent models, including my S5). Or it will charge at 500mA only?
3) I tried to cut a cable and short D+ and D- but it still charge at 500mA and ask to use the original cable, maybe the cable isn't good enough and it understood it? Shorting the D+ and D- will assure Samsung to charge at 2A?
4) the original charger cable has a particular connector with the micro usb plus and an extender of contacts, I think you undersood what I'm saying, is the extender allowed to bing power too?
It looks strange, if I use that power supply (2Amper) it charges at 900mA, if I use the cover (with battery pack) it charges at 1700mA! How?
Thank you a lot!
Hi again! Anyone here may share his experience?
I just found this for Apple and I've no idea if works on Samsung as well:
D+ / D-
2.0V/2.0V – low power (500mA)
2.0V/2.7V – Apple iPhone (1000mA/5-watt)
2.7V/2.0V – Apple iPad (2100mA/10-watt)
2.7V/2.7V – 12-watt (2400mA, possibly used by Blackberry)
D+/D- shorted together – USB-IF BC 1.2
1.2V/1.2V – Samsung devices